I disagree with the whole thing about cutting wood and feather sticks, its actually much easier because the edge is so smooth and if you know how to feather stick with a convex it is oh so very easy. I have never once had any issues with processing wood with a convex, i actually think its much much easier than any other grind out there. But i guess thats just my experience.
I am not a fan of convex grinds other than on my machetes. Yep, it is the strongest grind that is why I put it on my machetes. A hollow grind is the sharpest, but also the weakest. I like Scandi grind for outdoors things, but my edc is a flat grind. Just in case anyone wants to know, the Work Sharp belt sharpener will turn whatever you sharpen into a convex grind. That 3rd knife you showed looks like a flat grind.
Sounds like you just need a scandi to meet your specific needs. Personally, I dislike secondary bevels. Theyre understandable on small knives such as pocket knives but asides from that are a major flaw or an easy way to save a buck in the factory/shop.
Very educational about grinds in general but here's one more con for the convex, it's not easy to sharpen because it's really a guessing game especially when using a traditional stone method
It’s good to explain grinds to people as most probably has no idea. I currently have two convex knives. One is the Black Jack Tac Ops 6 which has a traditional convex but does have a swedge going to the tip so it’s a little more beefy than others. The other is a modified context by LT Wright and it’s their Gen 3, which is basically a large 6-7 inch survival kephart knife
Those are some solid choices, and this is true, even the Fallkniven A1 and S1 employ swedges to give the tip added strength while retaining the convex grind.
Great video, thank you. This makes a lot of sense to me (mainly kitchen knife user). Basically - once that convex grind gets less pronounced and the whole blade thinner - the edge bevel becomes a necessity to achieve sufficient edge strength. One could of course round that edge bevel over and blend it with the rest of the blade, but that would most likely not have a large impact on how the knife would cut. In a sense - on an outdoor knife a convex grind compared to a scandi grind trades larger thickness further away from the edge for a larger thickness closer to the edge. This results in a behavior that you described very well. Edit: One could at least to some extent remedy the tip by changing the convex grind to a thicker one towards the tip, but that would require a lot of attention to detail when grinding the blade and would likely come at a higher cost.
Good break down and follow up points. I like your feed back. Some knife companies such as Fallkniven with the A1 and S1 added swedges to give added tip strength
How can removing steel at the tip to form the swedge add strength? It doesn't make sens... The tip would be stronger if the swedge had not been ground. There is not free lunch; removing material decreases strength/durability.
Do you(or anyone else reading this) know of any other fixed blades that come convexed OTHER than Bark River, Falkniven, and some LT Wrights? Ever since I got my first Bark River I’ve fallen in love with convex, and now I just really CANT bring myself to go back to using a basic V edge or ANY other grind in a fixed blade… Just want to know of other fixed blades that come convexed so I can buy something else and have other options other than re-grinding a brand new knife out the box that came with a V-edge
As an outdoorsman the only two grinds I've ever needed on my knives has been Scandi for wood work, and convex for EDC and the kitchen. Am I limiting myself here or do I pretty much have my bases covered?
Excellent explanation. You informed me of a particular piece of information regarding the convex grind that I hadn't thought of. You cleared up my understanding.
The Bark River knife you showed has a Saber-Vex grind and is the reason it is thicker behind the edge. There is also a Scandi-Vex grind. When I find a convex knife with a sharpening bevel it is usually because the maker is taking a shortcut to save time and maximize profit.
Jb knifeworks is an extremely reputable usa company, adding a micro bevel takes an extra step, its not to save money, it's for today's consumers that somehow chip every blade they touch, it adds stability to the edge, even bark river put them on their hard use knives, however I will agree that I hate micro bevels with a passion.
I really like my new Bark River knife, but I don’t think I am a fan of this convex grind. I wish it just had a traditional scandi grind. Anyone have a recommendation for a good quality bushcraft knife with a scandi grind?
Great video - I used to be all about the "traditional" scandi grind for bushcraft because that is what most people were using - then, I stumbled upon the bark river convex grind and I have never looked back. I absolutely love the convex grind on a bark river knife!!!! Yes, quite expensive but worth the every penny in my opinion.
I disagree with the whole thing about cutting wood and feather sticks, its actually much easier because the edge is so smooth and if you know how to feather stick with a convex it is oh so very easy. I have never once had any issues with processing wood with a convex, i actually think its much much easier than any other grind out there. But i guess thats just my experience.
gotta be one of the best tutorials on the subject i have seen yet on youtube. thank you sir.
Thank you very much!
I am not a fan of convex grinds other than on my machetes. Yep, it is the strongest grind that is why I put it on my machetes. A hollow grind is the sharpest, but also the weakest. I like Scandi grind for outdoors things, but my edc is a flat grind. Just in case anyone wants to know, the Work Sharp belt sharpener will turn whatever you sharpen into a convex grind. That 3rd knife you showed looks like a flat grind.
Sounds like you just need a scandi to meet your specific needs. Personally, I dislike secondary bevels. Theyre understandable on small knives such as pocket knives but asides from that are a major flaw or an easy way to save a buck in the factory/shop.
Very educational about grinds in general but here's one more con for the convex, it's not easy to sharpen because it's really a guessing game especially when using a traditional stone method
Is the convex grind and convex edge the same thing?
It’s good to explain grinds to people as most probably has no idea. I currently have two convex knives. One is the Black Jack Tac Ops 6 which has a traditional convex but does have a swedge going to the tip so it’s a little more beefy than others. The other is a modified context by LT Wright and it’s their Gen 3, which is basically a large 6-7 inch survival kephart knife
Those are some solid choices, and this is true, even the Fallkniven A1 and S1 employ swedges to give the tip added strength while retaining the convex grind.
Great video, thank you. This makes a lot of sense to me (mainly kitchen knife user). Basically - once that convex grind gets less pronounced and the whole blade thinner - the edge bevel becomes a necessity to achieve sufficient edge strength. One could of course round that edge bevel over and blend it with the rest of the blade, but that would most likely not have a large impact on how the knife would cut. In a sense - on an outdoor knife a convex grind compared to a scandi grind trades larger thickness further away from the edge for a larger thickness closer to the edge. This results in a behavior that you described very well.
Edit: One could at least to some extent remedy the tip by changing the convex grind to a thicker one towards the tip, but that would require a lot of attention to detail when grinding the blade and would likely come at a higher cost.
Good break down and follow up points. I like your feed back. Some knife companies such as Fallkniven with the A1 and S1 added swedges to give added tip strength
How can removing steel at the tip to form the swedge add strength? It doesn't make sens... The tip would be stronger if the swedge had not been ground.
There is not free lunch; removing material decreases strength/durability.
Do you(or anyone else reading this) know of any other fixed blades that come convexed OTHER than Bark River, Falkniven, and some LT Wrights? Ever since I got my first Bark River I’ve fallen in love with convex, and now I just really CANT bring myself to go back to using a basic V edge or ANY other grind in a fixed blade… Just want to know of other fixed blades that come convexed so I can buy something else and have other options other than re-grinding a brand new knife out the box that came with a V-edge
Joker nomad.
As an outdoorsman the only two grinds I've ever needed on my knives has been Scandi for wood work, and convex for EDC and the kitchen. Am I limiting myself here or do I pretty much have my bases covered?
Excellent explanation. You informed me of a particular piece of information regarding the convex grind that I hadn't thought of. You cleared up my understanding.
The Bark River knife you showed has a Saber-Vex grind and is the reason it is thicker behind the edge. There is also a Scandi-Vex grind. When I find a convex knife with a sharpening bevel it is usually because the maker is taking a shortcut to save time and maximize profit.
Jb knifeworks is an extremely reputable usa company, adding a micro bevel takes an extra step, its not to save money, it's for today's consumers that somehow chip every blade they touch, it adds stability to the edge, even bark river put them on their hard use knives, however I will agree that I hate micro bevels with a passion.
I do not believe there is a saber-vex grind or basically all convex's would be them.
@@AlaskanFrontier1 Saber is where on the blade the grind starts and there is a saber-vex grind just like there is a saber-flat and saber-hollow grind.
@@AlaskanFrontier1 Saber height convex grind as apposed to a full height convex grind. A lot of BRK’s are “saber height” convex grinds.
So do you still worry about the tips on 3V knives? What steel was the aurora you broke?
I really like my new Bark River knife, but I don’t think I am a fan of this convex grind. I wish it just had a traditional scandi grind. Anyone have a recommendation for a good quality bushcraft knife with a scandi grind?
Lt wright knives
this is possibly the oldest grind in the world
Only 50 likes? C'mon y'all
Great video brother. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video. Thank you so much
Glad you liked it!
Great video - I used to be all about the "traditional" scandi grind for bushcraft because that is what most people were using - then, I stumbled upon the bark river convex grind and I have never looked back. I absolutely love the convex grind on a bark river knife!!!! Yes, quite expensive but worth the every penny in my opinion.
Love the silent intro . . . true wilderness experience
Thank you!
What?!? You're telling me you don't like loud metal advertising music?