Floppy butthole.... 😂😂🤣🤣 Thinking about that while seeing the speaker flopping is so damn funny! U should edit in a rewind, slow-mo with a speaker ""flopping"" (& you saying "floppy butthole")🤣🤣🤣
Thank you as always great content video audio commentary tutorial editing honesty & humbleness You are an amazing teacher & realist I love it when you disprove myths, bs, haters & fan boys. & yes pink is a flavor it happens to be my favorite 🗣️📢Keep preaching your church 🔊💨💨💨💨
The thing I’ve seen about qts is I can use slightly smaller box with better results with a lower qts. But at the same time. I personally like ported boxes on larger qts value woofers. Maybe I’m doing it wrong but it sounds good to me!
A pretty popular TH-camr said the Skar Evl has the dumbest TS parameters. I’ve had MTX, Kickers just about all of them but the Q. American Bass Xfl ,Sundown SA. From listening the ones that I like the sound of the best are the Evl and Sundown U. Seems everyone loves lows but me. The Xfl got loud and didn’t sound bad but I want to be loud and sound good. So it’s between the Evl or the U. Can you tell me what has the best parameters for putting 4 12s in 8 cubes net.
U has a bigger diameter motor. EVL is the same as the old Soundstream SPLX / TC9 by TC Sounds. U series motor is more on par with the VXF but the VXF gives you mega roll cone and 10" spider on the Ti frame for around the same money or less. VXF 15" is only like $272 right now.
Im having trouble, and need some help. I have three subwoofers in mind to buy for my new box. One of them seems to fit my sq ft that my box is. I have a 2012 Ram 1500 with a ported box (under back seat) with two chambers @ 1.55 cubic ft of air space (in each chamber) tuned at 33hz. Im looking for a very deep, very hard hitting bass system. Will this sub woofer below, work in the air space that my box has. The DD woofer specs Id like to get is as follows 10 inch sub woofer (DD Audio 610-F-Dual Coil) Vas 33.91 Fs 34hz Qts .416 Xmax 22mm 1000 watt (RMS) Spec sheet says for a ported box at 1.25sq ft - 1.75sq ft Whats your thoughts? Thank you in advance.
1.55cf is a bit large for a 10". If you have the clearance I would recommend a 1,000 W to 1500 W 12-in subwoofer per chamber. The problem will probably be depth clearance and that's why I'm developing a semi shallow high performance subwoofer that can play to 30 Hz or lower. Go ahead and text me direct and maybe I can find some examples on Amazon to give you a direction to go pursue. 602-312-6504
My Deaf Bonce Machete MF-10S D2 (800w rms) has a qts of .43, fs of 37hz and a vas of .724' (quite small I think) but Alphard recommends 1.4' box volume ( maybe includes the port and woofer displ? Idk) and 12.4" of port area. Currently have it on a CT Sounds 400.1D wired to 1ohm making 580w rms.. moves this little Russian woofer like crazy in a homemade 1.5 net folded port, behind 3rd row wedge (vids posted)
My opinion isnt needed and dont matter to the masses but i my opinion your product looks by far cooler than the market. The bennefits you offer make your product better than the market. Looks are only a quarterlf the battle💯🔈🔉🔊
Well 💩… learning and had been listening to mbe a lot. I got a pair of 8” dc m4’s for my truck. FS is 44.5 and qts is .536… I went down a rabbit hole and am now thinking of building a 6th order with passive radiators. WinISD shows I can get peaks of 140db at 42hz and 22hz (with cabin gain) and supposedly stay inside xmax… I love deep bass and hunt for electronic music that stays low most of the song (if not all). It’ll be my first box 😅
Hey @robotunderground great video. Q: How do you calculate the trade of VAS for Fs? You gave an example of 10cu/ft at 28Hz. What would the VAS be at the desired 35Hz? Kind regards.
Jeff can build a great box too for way cheaper.👍ive learned alot from patrick,he prob gets sick of my texts,but he dont realize he does help me.i just started this last december im 39 yrs old..i may not spend ton of money with him but when i do need something that i know he has ill get it from him.
Not entirely true, MB enclosures are nice, but the info he shares most of the time is 50/50 . Half is correct and the other half is misinformation. I happen to be an acoustical engineer and design drivers ect. Some of MB’s info makes me squirm because I know it’s off. Even if he’s explaining it wrong it’s still off or not true. Also since kicker gave him a shout out he’s on the kicker wagon now. If you notice he props up kicker more and more every video.
@@entvids1 you're either in the club, or you ain't. I don't sell brand names, I sell performance for the $. I'll never be in the club. Value for the $ is big, and with all these copy cat Chinese drivers flooding the market, with everyone's name on them, you can actually have your cake and eat it too. Just have to know what performs. Tons of great performing copied driver's that can be had for much cheaper if you know where to look. This is why I like Patrick, he knows more than most, and gives us hard working people incredible value for the $. I respect kicker, but they aren't the end all, and certainly not good value for the $. I've had a few of my factual comments deleted on his videos, but hey, I don't play the marketing game, it's just a hobby for me. I build enclosures just as good as the next guy, and I'm not a carpenter, just a stupid lowly mechanic. I use my brain, keeps $ in my wallet, and get incredible satisfaction doing every single thing in my and others builds, myself.
@@e.g4732 He's trying which is good.. .But he quickly sells out to the cool factor and of course, the money waiting for him on the other side of the promotion.
I usually ignore most people's opinions for car audio. However, there's this trend now about efficiency bandwidth product calculators and them being the be all end all of what box will work for a certain subwoofer. If a low qts sub, say .319 has an fs of 30.4hz and a EBP of 95 it can't work well in a sealed box. Yet the vas is .47 cubic ft. How is that possible?
I'd really like your input because I am currently building a 10 cubic ft steel caged enclosure for 12 of these drivers to go in a car and I know that with the high xmax(27mm) 10" driver, they will displace a buttload of air and going slightly above vas will help my lower end a tad. I feel it would be a violent yet balanced build but I'm taking a lot of flak on fb because of it. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Excellent explanation...appreciate the emphasis on practicality....also watched your other video with the sharpie and the metal table (really, really good). I would really enjoy a similar discussion on "full range" and mid range drivers. Thank you for putting all of this together in an enjoyable and digestible manner.
Long Azz Question... So You Talked About Fs. How Great Of An Effect Does It's Fs Play Into How Low It Can Hit? Will It Really Struggle To Play Below It's Fs? So Floppy Butthole... I Got 2 XXX12S In A 3.8Cuft Box (Subs Inverted And 6" Port External) The Fs On This Sub On Paper Is 21Hz Which I Believe Becasue Of How Abnormally Soft The Suspension Is (I never measured tho). When I Pulled One Out To Make Repairs To My Box I Remember Seeing The Cone Jounce Each Step I Took Holding It Vertically hahaha. ANYWAY I Stick My 3ft Long Port On Which Comes Out Theoretically As 21.5 Hz Tuning. Obviously Won't Be That Way In The Vehicle etc. I Got Some EMF Banhammer V.2s I Plan On Running. I Broke Those Fully And Took The T/S Parameters On Them. The Fs On The EMFs is 27Hz. Now When I Put These Parameters In WinISD (I KNOW 🤣) In Same Box And Port Tuning The EMFs Show A Substantial Gain At 21Hz Tuning (6dB Difference). Overall The EMF Show They Can Dig Way Deeper "Theoretically". So Will A 27Hz Fs Sub Not Be Able To Touch A 21Hz Fs Sub At 21Hz Tuning? EMF = Fs27 Qts.504 Vas.56Cuft RE = Fs21 Qts.404 Vas2.61Cuft What's Odd Is 3.8 Cuft Is Severely Undersized For The Res Vas. I Don't Always Run This 3ft Port But I Think Is Epic How Relaxing The Shaking Is. It's Like A Helicopter Sound. Very "Rare" Sound, I Have To Edit My Own Music Cus Ain't Much Out There For This Low haha. What's Also Great About It Is My Impedance Rises From 0.5 To 6.5Ohms So The Amp Is Barely Doing Anything But Mayham Is Happening Inside haha Subs Also Don't Run Into Thermal Limits Just Mechanical haha So I Can Play It All Day With Very Little Strain On Alternators And Even The Weak Lithiums I Have. So Should I Suspect Worse Or Better Performance With The EMFs At 21Hz? Really Hoping For Better Cus I Like Floppy Butthole 😆
It just doesn't produce the sound that you want it to it lacks performance. When you tune way below the FS like that it just makes it flop around like a floppy butthole. That's why I prefer to tune between 32 and 36 hertz those give the best results and you get free efficiency and you can see that in the results either in computer prediction or in real life If you really want to study some great subs versus their teal small parameters look at the work of Wayne Connolly did for Rockford RATS. He built enclosure after enclosure and tested in multiple vehicles to get real world results and then record them. You can look at the TSPs and then you can look at the power handling and you can look at the response in the vehicle. What it really ends up with is a computer prediction model that is more accurate.
Thanks sr I looked it but there’s nothing on the description but thank you anyway have a wonderful day I see your videos always and share them en my social media thank you for share your knowledge I appreciate it take care yourself
This is a very good question I like turtles feels like an Arby’s night if I could ask a question I would I don’t know if you’ll answer why is tomorrow not today can you answer the question I haven’t asked looks like you are the man I like all the knowledge you give subwoofers are fun I like the Tin Man.
I don't use it. Just use the QTS. .5 and greater tends to be better in ported. less than .5 tends to do better with sealed. That's it. Around .4 to .65 is good for either.
Does the 12-16 sqin/1cube of enclosure volume hold true and if so can a specific tune level wanted change this equation, and how is a specific tune level meet solely based design spec of enclosure without any electrical measuring tools to determine if frequency wanted is actually being produced ?? Example if wanting a vented enclosure for 2 10' to the tune of 36hz, how or what's measured to determine if that frequency is made during building process of enclosure ? Sorry if anything asked is a retarded question but just when I think I understand something moment I watch another video regarding similar topics, the information given is saying something opposite or has different understanding to its meaning Example one video says cone area is key to know port area needed and another video says 12-16sq/in per net cubic ft airspace enclosure has 🤔 or qts,vas and fs spec values is all that's needed to design enclosure that's best suited for sub used ,my brain fuckin hurts !
I’ve been experimenting lately with sealed vs. ported boxes as well as tuning. Its best to do your own research to get a feel for what works for your application
Sure, that's another way to go. Typically ported will always be better when it's executed correctly. Sealed is an ok solution, you just need more power and a bass boost / EQ to yield the output you really want or can get.
@@RobotUnderground power is cheap,a sealed box with some boost avoids those wife bummer huge ported boxes. Sealed sounds better,that free port power is farty to me.
@@RobotUnderground I have an sdr -18 skaron 250watts in a 4.0cft sealed ceiling sub! Sealed with dacron and braced cabinet 1.5 inch front baffle.3/4 and its so tight.
How do you come up with all this info if you cant provide the info to the customer? So we are supposed to guess? And is not a 10cu box.... its 10 cu of area to build in. Don't be dumb. Just give some specs with your subs
@@RobotUnderground patients? I have been nothing but nice and patient with you for 2 solid months. On a 2 week build as you said. You straight up lied to me for 2 weeks, and now I cant even get a recommended box size, of a subwoofer you designed, and build. Are you fucking kidding me? Trying to get the box built before it gets here. I promise you this! I will never contact you for another thing! You have done nothing but lie, and make excuses
@@RobotUnderground still cant answer a simple question. What is the recommended airspace for the subwoofer? Lmao, and I am the asshole? Just stating the clear facts. Asking for specs to get a recommended box size from a reputable company, and cant get that. So I am supposed to research all of the info to be able to come up with a final box build? For the only speaker that was ever come to me, or have ever seen in my 43 years that does not have any spec sheet or recommended specs? Hmmm INTERESTING.
Floppy butthole.... 😂😂🤣🤣
Thinking about that while seeing the speaker flopping is so damn funny! U should edit in a rewind, slow-mo with a speaker ""flopping"" (& you saying "floppy butthole")🤣🤣🤣
Thank you as always great content video audio commentary tutorial editing honesty & humbleness
You are an amazing teacher & realist
I love it when you disprove myths, bs, haters & fan boys.
& yes pink is a flavor it happens to be my favorite
🗣️📢Keep preaching your church 🔊💨💨💨💨
Awesome explanations man,thanks for this vid bro
Glad you liked it!
Bro u are the shit man excellent information and real talk at the end 👏 keep this shit up thank you!!!
The thing I’ve seen about qts is I can use slightly smaller box with better results with a lower qts. But at the same time. I personally like ported boxes on larger qts value woofers. Maybe I’m doing it wrong but it sounds good to me!
Again, it depends on so many other factors.
A pretty popular TH-camr said the Skar Evl has the dumbest TS parameters. I’ve had MTX, Kickers just about all of them but the Q. American Bass Xfl ,Sundown SA. From listening the ones that I like the sound of the best are the Evl and Sundown U. Seems everyone loves lows but me. The Xfl got loud and didn’t sound bad but I want to be loud and sound good. So it’s between the Evl or the U. Can you tell me what has the best parameters for putting 4 12s in 8 cubes net.
U has a bigger diameter motor. EVL is the same as the old Soundstream SPLX / TC9 by TC Sounds. U series motor is more on par with the VXF but the VXF gives you mega roll cone and 10" spider on the Ti frame for around the same money or less. VXF 15" is only like $272 right now.
Thanks for the knowledge
finally it starting to make sense for me now thx man! be reasonable!!!!
Watching these videos is better than reading cookbooks.
Lol. Got the mbenclosure opinion here. Thanks hahaha. Totally agree
Im having trouble, and need some help. I have three subwoofers in mind to buy for my new box. One of them seems to fit my sq ft that my box is. I have a 2012 Ram 1500 with a ported box (under back seat) with two chambers @ 1.55 cubic ft of air space (in each chamber) tuned at 33hz. Im looking for a very deep, very hard hitting bass system.
Will this sub woofer below, work in the air space that my box has.
The DD woofer specs Id like to get is as follows
10 inch sub woofer (DD Audio 610-F-Dual Coil)
Vas 33.91
Fs 34hz
Qts .416
Xmax 22mm
1000 watt (RMS)
Spec sheet says for a ported box at 1.25sq ft - 1.75sq ft
Whats your thoughts? Thank you in advance.
1.55cf is a bit large for a 10". If you have the clearance I would recommend a 1,000 W to 1500 W 12-in subwoofer per chamber. The problem will probably be depth clearance and that's why I'm developing a semi shallow high performance subwoofer that can play to 30 Hz or lower. Go ahead and text me direct and maybe I can find some examples on Amazon to give you a direction to go pursue. 602-312-6504
I gave you a shout out on my show today.
Great video.
post the link
Most high powerhandling subs that are only recommended for ported boxes have low QTS, usually around .3-.4 from what I've seen
Do more research.
My Deaf Bonce Machete MF-10S D2 (800w rms) has a qts of .43, fs of 37hz and a vas of .724' (quite small I think) but Alphard recommends 1.4' box volume ( maybe includes the port and woofer displ? Idk) and 12.4" of port area. Currently have it on a CT Sounds 400.1D wired to 1ohm making 580w rms.. moves this little Russian woofer like crazy in a homemade 1.5 net folded port, behind 3rd row wedge (vids posted)
My opinion isnt needed and dont matter to the masses but i my opinion your product looks by far cooler than the market. The bennefits you offer make your product better than the market. Looks are only a quarterlf the battle💯🔈🔉🔊
Agreed. But I lack distribution.. And that's where you guys have an opportunity.
Well 💩… learning and had been listening to mbe a lot. I got a pair of 8” dc m4’s for my truck. FS is 44.5 and qts is .536… I went down a rabbit hole and am now thinking of building a 6th order with passive radiators. WinISD shows I can get peaks of 140db at 42hz and 22hz (with cabin gain) and supposedly stay inside xmax… I love deep bass and hunt for electronic music that stays low most of the song (if not all). It’ll be my first box 😅
lol. You just polishing that turd. Get better subs to begin with. Look at specs and performance.. .NOT BRAND
My home theater subs are 11cu ft each tuned to 16-17hz. Lol
Plenty of floppy butthole
If your spouse leaves then it wasn’t meant to be. Keep it pushing on your own.
robotunderground i found you today im glad i did ur fuckoing solid
my ads 10's Fs=16hz Qts< .21 , its also less than around 200w so it doesnt play all that loud either. but its soo smooth with little fatigue.
baby bass.
@@RobotUnderground yes, its fine for what i intend. going to use them in a home 2ch setup.
Hey @robotunderground great video.
Q: How do you calculate the trade of VAS for Fs?
You gave an example of 10cu/ft at 28Hz. What would the VAS be at the desired 35Hz?
Kind regards.
I don't know. I'm sure there's an log value or something. Most of it should be calculated with a box program like WinISD or BlauBox.
MBE Enclosures knows his stuff man... I realize its not a personal attack as u come after yourself to lol...😂
Jeff can build a great box too for way cheaper.👍ive learned alot from patrick,he prob gets sick of my texts,but he dont realize he does help me.i just started this last december im 39 yrs old..i may not spend ton of money with him but when i do need something that i know he has ill get it from him.
Not entirely true, MB enclosures are nice, but the info he shares most of the time is 50/50 . Half is correct and the other half is misinformation. I happen to be an acoustical engineer and design drivers ect. Some of MB’s info makes me squirm because I know it’s off. Even if he’s explaining it wrong it’s still off or not true. Also since kicker gave him a shout out he’s on the kicker wagon now. If you notice he props up kicker more and more every video.
@@entvids1 you're either in the club, or you ain't. I don't sell brand names, I sell performance for the $. I'll never be in the club. Value for the $ is big, and with all these copy cat Chinese drivers flooding the market, with everyone's name on them, you can actually have your cake and eat it too. Just have to know what performs. Tons of great performing copied driver's that can be had for much cheaper if you know where to look. This is why I like Patrick, he knows more than most, and gives us hard working people incredible value for the $. I respect kicker, but they aren't the end all, and certainly not good value for the $. I've had a few of my factual comments deleted on his videos, but hey, I don't play the marketing game, it's just a hobby for me. I build enclosures just as good as the next guy, and I'm not a carpenter, just a stupid lowly mechanic.
I use my brain, keeps $ in my wallet, and get incredible satisfaction doing every single thing in my and others builds, myself.
I disagree. He just repeats himself half the time about obvious stuff. This channel is the best to go to learn about car audio
@@e.g4732 He's trying which is good.. .But he quickly sells out to the cool factor and of course, the money waiting for him on the other side of the promotion.
I usually ignore most people's opinions for car audio. However, there's this trend now about efficiency bandwidth product calculators and them being the be all end all of what box will work for a certain subwoofer. If a low qts sub, say .319 has an fs of 30.4hz and a EBP of 95 it can't work well in a sealed box. Yet the vas is .47 cubic ft. How is that possible?
I'd really like your input because I am currently building a 10 cubic ft steel caged enclosure for 12 of these drivers to go in a car and I know that with the high xmax(27mm) 10" driver, they will displace a buttload of air and going slightly above vas will help my lower end a tad. I feel it would be a violent yet balanced build but I'm taking a lot of flak on fb because of it. Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking for a good midrange SQ or SQL subwoofer. Any suggestions?
Just text me direct with your name and your shipping address and we can go over your options 602-312-6504
Subs with very high Qts works best in IB.
💯 Patrick!
Excellent explanation...appreciate the emphasis on practicality....also watched your other video with the sharpie and the metal table (really, really good). I would really enjoy a similar discussion on "full range" and mid range drivers. Thank you for putting all of this together in an enjoyable and digestible manner.
Noted
Long Azz Question... So You Talked About Fs. How Great Of An Effect Does It's Fs Play Into How Low It Can Hit? Will It Really Struggle To Play Below It's Fs? So Floppy Butthole... I Got 2 XXX12S In A 3.8Cuft Box (Subs Inverted And 6" Port External) The Fs On This Sub On Paper Is 21Hz Which I Believe Becasue Of How Abnormally Soft The Suspension Is (I never measured tho). When I Pulled One Out To Make Repairs To My Box I Remember Seeing The Cone Jounce Each Step I Took Holding It Vertically hahaha. ANYWAY I Stick My 3ft Long Port On Which Comes Out Theoretically As 21.5 Hz Tuning. Obviously Won't Be That Way In The Vehicle etc. I Got Some EMF Banhammer V.2s I Plan On Running. I Broke Those Fully And Took The T/S Parameters On Them. The Fs On The EMFs is 27Hz. Now When I Put These Parameters In WinISD (I KNOW 🤣) In Same Box And Port Tuning The EMFs Show A Substantial Gain At 21Hz Tuning (6dB Difference). Overall The EMF Show They Can Dig Way Deeper "Theoretically". So Will A 27Hz Fs Sub Not Be Able To Touch A 21Hz Fs Sub At 21Hz Tuning?
EMF = Fs27 Qts.504 Vas.56Cuft
RE = Fs21 Qts.404 Vas2.61Cuft
What's Odd Is 3.8 Cuft Is Severely Undersized For The Res Vas. I Don't Always Run This 3ft Port But I Think Is Epic How Relaxing The Shaking Is. It's Like A Helicopter Sound. Very "Rare" Sound, I Have To Edit My Own Music Cus Ain't Much Out There For This Low haha. What's Also Great About It Is My Impedance Rises From 0.5 To 6.5Ohms So The Amp Is Barely Doing Anything But Mayham Is Happening Inside haha Subs Also Don't Run Into Thermal Limits Just Mechanical haha So I Can Play It All Day With Very Little Strain On Alternators And Even The Weak Lithiums I Have.
So Should I Suspect Worse Or Better Performance With The EMFs At 21Hz? Really Hoping For Better Cus I Like Floppy Butthole 😆
It just doesn't produce the sound that you want it to it lacks performance. When you tune way below the FS like that it just makes it flop around like a floppy butthole. That's why I prefer to tune between 32 and 36 hertz those give the best results and you get free efficiency and you can see that in the results either in computer prediction or in real life If you really want to study some great subs versus their teal small parameters look at the work of Wayne Connolly did for Rockford RATS. He built enclosure after enclosure and tested in multiple vehicles to get real world results and then record them. You can look at the TSPs and then you can look at the power handling and you can look at the response in the vehicle. What it really ends up with is a computer prediction model that is more accurate.
Hole sr I have a question for you what software or app can I use for fs qts vas can you advise me on me please?
Look for the DATS V3 link in the description
Oh are you looking for box modeling?
Thanks sr I looked it but there’s nothing on the description but thank you anyway have a wonderful day I see your videos always and share them en my social media thank you for share your knowledge I appreciate it take care yourself
This is a very good question I like turtles feels like an Arby’s night if I could ask a question I would I don’t know if you’ll answer why is tomorrow not today can you answer the question I haven’t asked looks like you are the man I like all the knowledge you give subwoofers are fun I like the Tin Man.
What about EBP nobody really mentions it? Does it help figure anything?
I don't use it. Just use the QTS. .5 and greater tends to be better in ported. less than .5 tends to do better with sealed. That's it. Around .4 to .65 is good for either.
Does the 12-16 sqin/1cube of enclosure volume hold true and if so can a specific tune level wanted change this equation, and how is a specific tune level meet solely based design spec of enclosure without any electrical measuring tools to determine if frequency wanted is actually being produced ?? Example if wanting a vented enclosure for 2 10' to the tune of 36hz, how or what's measured to determine if that frequency is made during building process of enclosure ? Sorry if anything asked is a retarded question but just when I think I understand something moment I watch another video regarding similar topics, the information given is saying something opposite or has different understanding to its meaning Example one video says cone area is key to know port area needed and another video says 12-16sq/in per net cubic ft airspace enclosure has 🤔 or qts,vas and fs spec values is all that's needed to design enclosure that's best suited for sub used ,my brain fuckin hurts !
That just has to do with chuffing if you go smaller than you're going to get chuffing and depending on the application sometimes you don't hear it
I’ve been experimenting lately with sealed vs. ported boxes as well as tuning. Its best to do your own research to get a feel for what works for your application
Sure, that's another way to go. Typically ported will always be better when it's executed correctly. Sealed is an ok solution, you just need more power and a bass boost / EQ to yield the output you really want or can get.
@@RobotUnderground power is cheap,a sealed box with some boost avoids those wife bummer huge ported boxes. Sealed sounds better,that free port power is farty to me.
@@7thsoneli My RE Audio SX 18" is in a large sealed and it sounds great. Just needs a solid 500w and a bit of boost / EQ
@@RobotUnderground I have an sdr -18 skaron 250watts in a 4.0cft sealed ceiling sub! Sealed with dacron and braced cabinet 1.5 inch front baffle.3/4 and its so tight.
@@7thsoneli Tight!
#NoMoreFloppyButtholeKnowledge 🙌
The Q class cone area king vs sundown U8 i seen it we watch the same crap on youtubes
Gold plated toilet paper. That's not just greasy kids stuff.
The King's Wipes! I should get the .com
How do you come up with all this info if you cant provide the info to the customer? So we are supposed to guess? And is not a 10cu box.... its 10 cu of area to build in. Don't be dumb. Just give some specs with your subs
Patience
@@RobotUnderground patients? I have been nothing but nice and patient with you for 2 solid months. On a 2 week build as you said. You straight up lied to me for 2 weeks, and now I cant even get a recommended box size, of a subwoofer you designed, and build. Are you fucking kidding me? Trying to get the box built before it gets here. I promise you this! I will never contact you for another thing! You have done nothing but lie, and make excuses
@@OlmanEg Cool. I Don't mind blocking buttholes.
Sorry you don't like to listen to what I have to say Doogie Salsaberry of Florida.
@@RobotUnderground still cant answer a simple question. What is the recommended airspace for the subwoofer? Lmao, and I am the asshole? Just stating the clear facts. Asking for specs to get a recommended box size from a reputable company, and cant get that. So I am supposed to research all of the info to be able to come up with a final box build? For the only speaker that was ever come to me, or have ever seen in my 43 years that does not have any spec sheet or recommended specs? Hmmm INTERESTING.