Solid concrete block works great for smaller diameter water line. Dig back to virgin if the site wasn’t a from below water line, and lay solid concrete block to the edge of excavation to the bend or valve. Use concrete brick broken to smaller size if needed to fill joint between blocks. Rodding can solve many thrust related challenges.
all the going on about the "time and money" it takes to make a thrust block is rediculous. just slap together some 2x6s and use the extra concrete from a box or pad pour... it would have been wasted concrete anyway.
When and where are you gonna have extra concrete from a pad pour on site while doing water line? Utilities go in first. Unless you’re doing an addition on a commercial building, chances are you won’t have concrete on site from a pad pour while doing water line. When you put your bid together and write up a contract, you’d include an item for thrust blocking. Time and material plus XX%. Add additional if inspection is required.
@@mikeznel6048 I can see your point but we usually get a stockpile of our thrust blocks going while doing storm sewer pads and boxes and then we just throw them on the trailer along with the skid loader or loader when moving to the next job. on our water line joints we use secured fittings along with a thrust block just because it is usually specced that way where we work. we also have thrust block forms we toss our extra mud in at the shop when we precast box lids and other things. that works pretty slick too.
No need for a dozer unless your grading the site and leveling where the water line is gonna run through so the excavator is sitting level. Or for back filling after the pipe is stoned and a lift of dirt is put on to prevent rocks from falling in the trench and penetrating the stone and causing damage to the pipe. If it’s select fill, definitely not backfilling with a dozer.
@ please don’t spicy when I say I told you so! If you call EBBA Iron and ask to talk to someone about the doze in the video, you will get a great story involving a Cadillac. th-cam.com/video/px8hZLOVKsc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=q5DNR1hHSh8TV471
The force on the joint is partially from flow but you're not considering pressure. There's a lot of surface area across the pipe so multiply that by the city water pressure and you'll get literal tons of force trying to separate the joint.
Solid concrete block works great for smaller diameter water line. Dig back to virgin if the site wasn’t a from below water line, and lay solid concrete block to the edge of excavation to the bend or valve. Use concrete brick broken to smaller size if needed to fill joint between blocks. Rodding can solve many thrust related challenges.
Looked this up to settle an argument today. We're using 1100s and that is it.
I learned something today
all the going on about the "time and money" it takes to make a thrust block is rediculous. just slap together some 2x6s and use the extra concrete from a box or pad pour... it would have been wasted concrete anyway.
When and where are you gonna have extra concrete from a pad pour on site while doing water line? Utilities go in first. Unless you’re doing an addition on a commercial building, chances are you won’t have concrete on site from a pad pour while doing water line. When you put your bid together and write up a contract, you’d include an item for thrust blocking. Time and material plus XX%. Add additional if inspection is required.
@@mikeznel6048 I can see your point but we usually get a stockpile of our thrust blocks going while doing storm sewer pads and boxes and then we just throw them on the trailer along with the skid loader or loader when moving to the next job. on our water line joints we use secured fittings along with a thrust block just because it is usually specced that way where we work. we also have thrust block forms we toss our extra mud in at the shop when we precast box lids and other things. that works pretty slick too.
great video
Put a big chunk of concrete in there and keep it moving ,we're not splitting atoms here guys.
Guessing you didn't watch the full video. There are many scenarios where thrust blocks can't be used.
Gland ends are usually restrained. If thrust blocking isn’t an option, the fittings can be rodded and pipe can be restrained using hub restraints.
this video's background music isn't annoying enough
How to repair
Where is the bulldozer?!?
No need for a dozer unless your grading the site and leveling where the water line is gonna run through so the excavator is sitting level. Or for back filling after the pipe is stoned and a lift of dirt is put on to prevent rocks from falling in the trench and penetrating the stone and causing damage to the pipe. If it’s select fill, definitely not backfilling with a dozer.
@ bro, watch the original video. I guarantee there is a dozer involved.
@ please don’t spicy when I say I told you so!
If you call EBBA Iron and ask to talk to someone about the doze in the video, you will get a great story involving a Cadillac.
th-cam.com/video/px8hZLOVKsc/w-d-xo.htmlsi=q5DNR1hHSh8TV471
Water will only be flowing one way three the pipe not 2
You’re wrong, water can run from both sides. Water mains are built in a loop unless it’s to hydrants
The force on the joint is partially from flow but you're not considering pressure. There's a lot of surface area across the pipe so multiply that by the city water pressure and you'll get literal tons of force trying to separate the joint.
It’s not the flow of the water but the static pressure of the system you are resisting with restraints or thrust blocks.
@@LowWingFlyer It's actually both.
Pipe pressure works the same as hydraulics do.