An excellent video, as usual. You have a talent for showing people how to do it in the easiest way possible. And you even show people the proper way to connect them together. Thanks for going to the trouble of doing all that. I might add that I replaced all of my 12 volt HT chargers to APP as well as the power adapters. It provides a very good set of charger bases and adapters as well as easy charging from our vehicles. I used to use a set up much like that except that there were two lines in the end connectors allowing daisy chaining of the connectors. When I realized that wasn't optimal I purchased a MFJ-1128 DC power bus, and it works beautifully. The bottom line is that power pole connectors are a great way to go. 73 KE0JQA Jim
Thanks Michael. I just made a ring connector to power pole cable for my 20Ah LiFePO4 battery, put power pole connectors on the external power cord for my IC-705, put connectors on my battery charger and the spring clamps I cut off its cord. Next up, connectors for my XPA125B amp and a splitter to power both amp and radio from the battery.
I usually say, make the power cable short enough to be convenient. Out in the field I'm using 12 gauge stranded and have two cables, a 3 foot and a 6 foot. The six foot cable is nice as I can place the battery on the ground, otherwise three foot is more than plenty for most tasks. In my shack, I custom cut my cables to reach from the power supply to the rig with enough slack so I can also pull the radio out without too much effort.
Sweet video bro. I'm definitely a subscriber now. I just wired up a vhf go box with all butt connectors because I was clueless about Anderson power pole connectors. Watching this gave really good background and composition info. I'm gonna see if you have other vids, and will definitely look forward to future ones too!!
Excellent video and a great project! I just got my crimper and Powerpole kit from Powerwerx, now I know what my first use of the 45 amp contacts will be. 73, WB7VPI
Great video! Thank you so much for making a video on the Anderson Power poles! Im getting ready to make a VHF go kit and these will surly help with switching from the power supply to the battery! Thank you again so much! 73
Michael, great job on this video! I never would have thought to make a splitter out of them. In fact, I just purchased a 4 position Powerwerx block in order to accomplish essentially the same thing. I wish I would have seen this video before I made that purchase, nevertheless I am going to build one of these splitters now, just because I can! Thanks for all the great work! 73 de KE8OFH
For quite some time I used a deep cycle marine battery and a 1.5 amp battery maintainer/tender as my station's power supply. It worked very well and I was pleased with its operation. But eventually the battery wore out and I went back to using a conventional 13.8v power supply. Although my station still has battery backup power as I've added a West Mountain Radio PWRgate to the mix. Here's a video: th-cam.com/video/kT9vy1WLDB0/w-d-xo.html. Using the deep cycle battery in this manner does give you reliable backup power and it is cheaper than a 35 amp power supply. But the downside is that nominal voltage will be 12v and not 13.8v, so your transceivers will function just fine, but there full rated transmit power may be a bit less.
Get a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery from someone reputable like Bioenno. Noy only will it put out more power for longer, but the number of charge cycles is much better over a lead acid. So while the up front cost is higher its cheaper in watt hours over the life time of the battery.
Thank You for this video. Someone also suggested I can use the same system to connect different lengths of antenna together to cover different bands without having to cut and waste wire
In not sure I follow. You mean wasting feed line? One feed line with a splitter and you plug in which antenna you need? Why use a splitter? Usually for a dipole you have 2 lengths of wire. One cut for say 20M then a second set you add to get 40M. Then another set for 80M. That saves the most wire. But no splitter is needed just some quick connect. I use male and female blade connectors.
I've heard of similar recommendations. As long as the weight of your antenna doesn't pull the connectors apart, it should work fine. I use them as quick connects for my portable antenna ground radial system.
@@KB9VBRAntennas twist a loop in the ends of the wire, put a small zip tie to hold the loop then use a quick clip of some type. I use fishing swivels with the quick snap. This takes the strain off the connection. Anything to take the pull off the connectors. 2 zip ties would work too. One around the wire holding the second one to attach the quick connector. Or just zip tie the 2 wires together. But sometimes I don't plan on using 80M so I leave it off. So the fishing swivel helps with that. But zip ties are cheap. =]
You can run devices with two different amperages on the splitter. I use one of these to power my rig and the tuner off the same battery. The splitter doesn't have fuses in it as my longer power cable to the rig is fused. As long as those are fused, you should be fine.
Trying to come up with another way to do this. Im not typically a fan of putting two wires together in this fashion. Over time they may be more likely to work loose or even break. For traditional crimp fittings they have “piggyback” fittings. I realize yours wasnt for a permanent type install, but I would still like to come up with a small distribution/splitter for powerpoles without the cost of, and unneeded, fused blocks etc
The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not recognize soldering as a allowed connection. It can come apart in high current situations. Crimping is much better. Thanks for this video. This kit and tool will be part of my arsenal...soon!
@@KB9VBRAntennas Even more important is choosing the right crimping tool. I used to work for a GM dealer. We received a package from the special tools division of GM and it included a box of terminals used by GM vehicles and a crimping tool. It was a fantastic improvement over the hardware store type crimpers. When ever I run into these junk connectors it freaks me out, especially the blue Scotchloks. This tool was a highly specialty crimper that did a beautiful job of crimping both the conductor and the insulator. You ended up with a factory connection. The funny thing was it included a butane soldering iron and also a deflector shield to use for heat shrink tubing.
The Powerwerx 14g wire I have has a pretty thick jacket. This make trouble trying to stuff two leads into one shell. Does yours go all the way in the shell? I’m worried about + stripped wire outside the shell touching the - wire since it can’t be fully inserted.
I have a roll of Powerwerx wire so I know what you mean. I believe in this video I'm using a wire I purchased online that must have a thinner insulation as everything fits into the shell. I think one solution would be to strip off more insulation, crimp the two wires together into the insert and then use a bit of heat shrink tubing to reinsulate the bare wire. Everything should fit into the shell.
@@KB9VBRAntennas that’s exactly what I came up with as well. However I’m still paranoid that it might split from time and twisting and someday short out. I notice this type cable is sold by DX engineering. Their pictures are poor on the details. I may have to buy one to see what they did.
Thanks, I have been enjoying your channel and learning a lot. For the 45A 2 wire or even single wire for that matter, do you need to pre-close the open wings of the insert before crimping or just put it in the crimper and squeeze?
The 10-12ga contacts that fit in the 45 amp connectors have an open slot you lay the wire in while the smaller connectors are more like a tube. You don't have to fold in the opening‚ but I've found that if you do then they will crimp better. My crimper will occasionally miss or the connector may slide around in the crimp channel so closing them slightly tends to aid in the crimping process.
I have 2 single band radios. One is a 2M, the other is a 70CM. I got them in a month of careless buying, and am thinking of selling them as a "station set" having them use the same plug may make them more attractive to specific buyer. If it does not work, I have another quirky set up. It is all good, right.
Do you see any difference between the off brand powerpoles from Amazon that's linked in the description from the true Anderson branded ones from powerwerx or mouser? Pretty tempted to just get the Amazon kind but not really sure if there's any quality issues. I know the Amazon ones don't come with the connecting roll pin but I don't really care about that honestly.
I've heard that some Powerpole knockoffs have fit and quality issues. I haven't had any problems yet. The knockoffs I've bought fit together well and they also connect just fine to my authentic Powerpole connectors. The only problem I've had is with them accepting the roll pin, so I just glue the two pieces together instead.
I'm also going to use this system as a means of quickly connecting my radio to either my power supply or my battery, which already have power pole connector's
Beware. Once you start with powerpoles you'll want to put them on all your equipment and make adapters for all your other connectors so they're all interconvertible. I've probably used about 100 powerpole connector pairs in, splitters, adapters, etc. over the past 2 years. Just get the crimper and a large supply of powerpoles to start. You won't regret it.
You appear to have used chinese copies of anderson powerpole connectors which do not meet the quality control standards of the original (read some of the negative reviews on Amazon). It might not matter for your application, but it is generally better to purchase from a reputable dealer if you want genuine powerpole connectors.
Almost all the powerpoles on Amazon are knockoffs. I've found the biggest issue with them is the contacts. Because they are stamped out in big strips and broken apart, they will often have a burr on the sides that prevent them from being easily inserted into the shell. Filing the burr fixes that and they slide in nice and easy. The other issue is the shells don't stay locked together, but a drop of super glue holds them tight. Otherwise for long term use I haven't had issues with them.
@@KB9VBRAntennas I would splurge for the extra $0.50 and buy the genuine connector which I know will work everytime. I'd rather that my money support an actual amateur radio or electronics dealer, not Amazon selling fake cheap knock-offs. Thanks.
Power Poles are great! But one thing to keep in mind. For those of us who prep for SHTF......etc. Even if you have a good supply of them on hand you can't always carry EVERYTHING with you! So when you are separated from your supply or it gets destroyed what will you do if you have to connect something? Go to the nearest hardware store or auto parts store right? Well guess what they do not have! The readily available standard insulated crimp on connectors work just fine if installed correctly! Ive used them for decades! No issues! Plus they are cost effective! I do use Power Poles but only connections over 30 amps. Ive actually had more issues with them than the standard connectors. But I am rough on stuff! I off road often and having something I can fix, is readily available and cost effective seems to make the most sense to me. My .02 cents. =] WW5RM
You bring up a very good point. Even though Powerpoles are considered a standard ARES/RACES power connector standard, not everyone may have them installed on their equipment; so you should also carry a couple of adapters in your go-kit just in case. If this was a true SHTF scenario and I had to connect something, I'd probably be cutting off ends and stripping wires.
@@KB9VBRAntennas yes! Never forget the electrical tape! Multi function tape it should be called. Works great to hold a make shift bandage in place. Ask me how I know. =]
You are correct, there can be inconsistency in the different Chinese knock-off powerpoles available. The ones I use in this video are good and will fit with the genuine Anderson product just fine.
An excellent video, as usual. You have a talent for showing people how to do it in the easiest way possible. And you even show people the proper way to connect them together. Thanks for going to the trouble of doing all that.
I might add that I replaced all of my 12 volt HT chargers to APP as well as the power adapters. It provides a very good set of charger bases and adapters as well as easy charging from our vehicles. I used to use a set up much like that except that there were two lines in the end connectors allowing daisy chaining of the connectors. When I realized that wasn't optimal I purchased a MFJ-1128 DC power bus, and it works beautifully. The bottom line is that power pole connectors are a great way to go.
73
KE0JQA
Jim
This is what I was planning on doing, I just wanted a little confirmation that it was a good idea. Thanks
Thanks Michael. I just made a ring connector to power pole cable for my 20Ah LiFePO4 battery, put power pole connectors on the external power cord for my IC-705, put connectors on my battery charger and the spring clamps I cut off its cord. Next up, connectors for my XPA125B amp and a splitter to power both amp and radio from the battery.
Excellent idea, thanks for sharing it. I just ordered a new supply of Anderston Power Poles so swing this video just now is a very timely coincidence.
As always a nice video Michael. Thanks so much for your ham radio outreach. The world needs more ham radio operators. Keep the videos coming.
Thanks for the comments, I really appreciate it.
Hi Michael, thank you for all your instructional videos. How short could I build my transceiver power cord? I heard that the shorter the better.
I usually say, make the power cable short enough to be convenient. Out in the field I'm using 12 gauge stranded and have two cables, a 3 foot and a 6 foot. The six foot cable is nice as I can place the battery on the ground, otherwise three foot is more than plenty for most tasks. In my shack, I custom cut my cables to reach from the power supply to the rig with enough slack so I can also pull the radio out without too much effort.
I just built one of these today. Great idea! Thanks for the video.
Sweet video bro. I'm definitely a subscriber now. I just wired up a vhf go box with all butt connectors because I was clueless about Anderson power pole connectors. Watching this gave really good background and composition info. I'm gonna see if you have other vids, and will definitely look forward to future ones too!!
Red Right, Tongue Top, thats what i have memorized.
Excellent video and a great project! I just got my crimper and Powerpole kit from Powerwerx, now I know what my first use of the 45 amp contacts will be. 73, WB7VPI
Great video! Thank you so much for making a video on the Anderson Power poles! Im getting ready to make a VHF go kit and these will surly help with switching from the power supply to the battery! Thank you again so much! 73
Is there a way to weather proof these for outdoor use? And how do you panel mount them?
Thanks for the video.
Powerwerx has accessories for panel mounting and weatherproofing the connectors: powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors
Michael, great job on this video! I never would have thought to make a splitter out of them. In fact, I just purchased a 4 position Powerwerx block in order to accomplish essentially the same thing. I wish I would have seen this video before I made that purchase, nevertheless I am going to build one of these splitters now, just because I can! Thanks for all the great work! 73 de KE8OFH
Another good video. I would like your thoughts on using a battery to power radio equipment.
For quite some time I used a deep cycle marine battery and a 1.5 amp battery maintainer/tender as my station's power supply. It worked very well and I was pleased with its operation. But eventually the battery wore out and I went back to using a conventional 13.8v power supply. Although my station still has battery backup power as I've added a West Mountain Radio PWRgate to the mix. Here's a video: th-cam.com/video/kT9vy1WLDB0/w-d-xo.html. Using the deep cycle battery in this manner does give you reliable backup power and it is cheaper than a 35 amp power supply. But the downside is that nominal voltage will be 12v and not 13.8v, so your transceivers will function just fine, but there full rated transmit power may be a bit less.
Get a Lithium Iron Phosphate battery from someone reputable like Bioenno. Noy only will it put out more power for longer, but the number of charge cycles is much better over a lead acid. So while the up front cost is higher its cheaper in watt hours over the life time of the battery.
Excellent work
Thank You for this video. Someone also suggested I can use the same system to connect different lengths of antenna together to cover different bands without having to cut and waste wire
In not sure I follow. You mean wasting feed line?
One feed line with a splitter and you plug in which antenna you need? Why use a splitter?
Usually for a dipole you have 2 lengths of wire. One cut for say 20M then a second set you add to get 40M. Then another set for 80M. That saves the most wire. But no splitter is needed just some quick connect. I use male and female blade connectors.
I've heard of similar recommendations. As long as the weight of your antenna doesn't pull the connectors apart, it should work fine. I use them as quick connects for my portable antenna ground radial system.
@@KB9VBRAntennas twist a loop in the ends of the wire, put a small zip tie to hold the loop then use a quick clip of some type. I use fishing swivels with the quick snap. This takes the strain off the connection.
Anything to take the pull off the connectors. 2 zip ties would work too. One around the wire holding the second one to attach the quick connector. Or just zip tie the 2 wires together. But sometimes I don't plan on using 80M so I leave it off. So the fishing swivel helps with that. But zip ties are cheap. =]
Is it safe to use this for two devices that have different amperage or I need to solder fuse for such device end?
You can run devices with two different amperages on the splitter. I use one of these to power my rig and the tuner off the same battery. The splitter doesn't have fuses in it as my longer power cable to the rig is fused. As long as those are fused, you should be fine.
Trying to come up with another way to do this. Im not typically a fan of putting two wires together in this fashion. Over time they may be more likely to work loose or even break. For traditional crimp fittings they have “piggyback” fittings. I realize yours wasnt for a permanent type install, but I would still like to come up with a small distribution/splitter for powerpoles without the cost of, and unneeded, fused blocks etc
The National Electrical Code (NEC) does not recognize soldering as a allowed connection. It can come apart in high current situations. Crimping is much better.
Thanks for this video. This kit and tool will be part of my arsenal...soon!
Yes. That's one of the reasons why I don't solder electrical connectors.
@@KB9VBRAntennas Even more important is choosing the right crimping tool. I used to work for a GM dealer. We received a package from the special tools division of GM and it included a box of terminals used by GM vehicles and a crimping tool. It was a fantastic improvement over the hardware store type crimpers. When ever I run into these junk connectors it freaks me out, especially the blue Scotchloks. This tool was a highly specialty crimper that did a beautiful job of crimping both the conductor and the insulator. You ended up with a factory connection. The funny thing was it included a butane soldering iron and also a deflector shield to use for heat shrink tubing.
Great video thank you.
The Powerwerx 14g wire I have has a pretty thick jacket. This make trouble trying to stuff two leads into one shell. Does yours go all the way in the shell? I’m worried about + stripped wire outside the shell touching the - wire since it can’t be fully inserted.
I have a roll of Powerwerx wire so I know what you mean. I believe in this video I'm using a wire I purchased online that must have a thinner insulation as everything fits into the shell. I think one solution would be to strip off more insulation, crimp the two wires together into the insert and then use a bit of heat shrink tubing to reinsulate the bare wire. Everything should fit into the shell.
@@KB9VBRAntennas that’s exactly what I came up with as well. However I’m still paranoid that it might split from time and twisting and someday short out. I notice this type cable is sold by DX engineering. Their pictures are poor on the details. I may have to buy one to see what they did.
This is a great, quick project!
Simple, yet brilliant. (to use 45 Ampere connectors at the "Y") Ron W4BIN
Thanks, I have been enjoying your channel and learning a lot. For the 45A 2 wire or even single wire for that matter, do you need to pre-close the open wings of the insert before crimping or just put it in the crimper and squeeze?
The 10-12ga contacts that fit in the 45 amp connectors have an open slot you lay the wire in while the smaller connectors are more like a tube. You don't have to fold in the opening‚ but I've found that if you do then they will crimp better. My crimper will occasionally miss or the connector may slide around in the crimp channel so closing them slightly tends to aid in the crimping process.
@@KB9VBRAntennas makes perfect sense, thank you.
Great video! Glad I’m not the only one that struggles with 45 amp.
If I'm using the west mountain radio epic pwrgate in my go box, can I use this splitter on the out port without issues?
I have 2 single band radios. One is a 2M, the other is a 70CM. I got them in a month of careless buying, and am thinking of selling them as a "station set" having them use the same plug may make them more attractive to specific buyer. If it does not work, I have another quirky set up. It is all good, right.
Love your DIY videos. I really enjoy your content.
great idea
thank you for the video, I was looking for the exact same project. 73
Nice vid.
A bit worried, the battery terminal isn't fused/isolated.
You can certainly add a fuse. Since all my other cables that connect to the splitter are fused, I left the fuse off.
Do you see any difference between the off brand powerpoles from Amazon that's linked in the description from the true Anderson branded ones from powerwerx or mouser? Pretty tempted to just get the Amazon kind but not really sure if there's any quality issues. I know the Amazon ones don't come with the connecting roll pin but I don't really care about that honestly.
I've heard that some Powerpole knockoffs have fit and quality issues. I haven't had any problems yet. The knockoffs I've bought fit together well and they also connect just fine to my authentic Powerpole connectors. The only problem I've had is with them accepting the roll pin, so I just glue the two pieces together instead.
@@KB9VBRAntennas Awesome, thank you sir! Gonna save twenty bucks then and go with the Amazon kind.
Thank you!
Excellent idea
Thanks for the instruction this was helpful. Not something I had thought about.
Just what I needed to get power to my Bandpass Filter Bypass device.
Hi Mike, just the other day I was wondering how to do this Thanks so much. JJK
I'm also going to use this system as a means of quickly connecting my radio to either my power supply or my battery, which already have power pole connector's
Good idea!
🎉THANKYOU🎉
Great idea Michael.. 73 w8rlp
Nice Vid.
Beware. Once you start with powerpoles you'll want to put them on all your equipment and make adapters for all your other connectors so they're all interconvertible. I've probably used about 100 powerpole connector pairs in, splitters, adapters, etc. over the past 2 years. Just get the crimper and a large supply of powerpoles to start. You won't regret it.
Yea, I think I'm going that direction... we will see.... Just tired of those MC4 connectors.
Thank you greatly appreciated
You appear to have used chinese copies of anderson powerpole connectors which do not meet the quality control standards of the original (read some of the negative reviews on Amazon). It might not matter for your application, but it is generally better to purchase from a reputable dealer if you want genuine powerpole connectors.
Almost all the powerpoles on Amazon are knockoffs. I've found the biggest issue with them is the contacts. Because they are stamped out in big strips and broken apart, they will often have a burr on the sides that prevent them from being easily inserted into the shell. Filing the burr fixes that and they slide in nice and easy. The other issue is the shells don't stay locked together, but a drop of super glue holds them tight. Otherwise for long term use I haven't had issues with them.
@@KB9VBRAntennas I would splurge for the extra $0.50 and buy the genuine connector which I know will work everytime. I'd rather that my money support an actual amateur radio or electronics dealer, not Amazon selling fake cheap knock-offs. Thanks.
maybe add in a fuse. great video
He finally blinked at 4:38
Power Poles are great! But one thing to keep in mind. For those of us who prep for SHTF......etc. Even if you have a good supply of them on hand you can't always carry EVERYTHING with you! So when you are separated from your supply or it gets destroyed what will you do if you have to connect something? Go to the nearest hardware store or auto parts store right? Well guess what they do not have!
The readily available standard insulated crimp on connectors work just fine if installed correctly! Ive used them for decades! No issues! Plus they are cost effective!
I do use Power Poles but only connections over 30 amps. Ive actually had more issues with them than the standard connectors. But I am rough on stuff! I off road often and having something I can fix, is readily available and cost effective seems to make the most sense to me.
My .02 cents. =]
WW5RM
You bring up a very good point. Even though Powerpoles are considered a standard ARES/RACES power connector standard, not everyone may have them installed on their equipment; so you should also carry a couple of adapters in your go-kit just in case.
If this was a true SHTF scenario and I had to connect something, I'd probably be cutting off ends and stripping wires.
@@KB9VBRAntennas yes! Never forget the electrical tape! Multi function tape it should be called. Works great to hold a make shift bandage in place. Ask me how I know. =]
Thank you. N0QFT
Red smiles on the Right
Thanks, just what I was looking for!
I bought some off Amazon and they are Chinese knock offs. They work OK but they will not mate with genuine Power Pole, they are slightly bigger.
Yes, spend the extra money and get the real ones
You are correct, there can be inconsistency in the different Chinese knock-off powerpoles available. The ones I use in this video are good and will fit with the genuine Anderson product just fine.
Thanks. That's helpful. N0QFT