I'm working on a 5.0 as well is fouling a couple of spark plugs already changed injectors and even opened up head everything looks good this engine was redone 2 years ago so internally don't think is the problem. I'd it either the computer or bad timing?
I've changed a few water pumps on these engines, and surely youre gonna break those longer bolts that go into the block that enter the water passage. I would recommend getting ARP heat treated water pump bolts. They have a higher tensil strength and can handle the twisting force needed to remove them. Also, instead of putting a sealant on the bolt thread because as you screw the bolt in, the hole itself will tend to " clean those theads off. If you put sealant inside the hole, the bolt will then push the sealant along and seal as it goes in.
I have a 92 f150 XLT 5.0 EFI with a check engine light. It seems a lot of shops are not eager to or don't have the proper tools to diagnose obd 1 check engine light issues. My registration is due this month and check engine light is automatic fail for emissions. I'm in Arizona. Also my ignition timing is not adjustable. What's the cheapest route to take if I take it to a shop vs diy? I have an obd 1 scanner I was going to use just see what codes pop up before taking it to the shop so I could give them an idea of where to start repairs. My truck has issues but at this point I just need to deal with the check engine light so I can pass emissions.
I got a 93 Ford 150 XL four wheel drive change the distributor the cap the rotor button spark plugs spark plug wires sounds like it wants to start but don't start if I I'm kind of lost on it it's got the V8 50
I have 1996 xl ford f150 5.0 v8 efi got new spark plugs, ignition coil , relays , fuel regulator. Some days it’ll crank an run fine after driving it next day itll turn over but won’t start up, idk what it could be bad fuel pump or starter ?
Hello Sir I got a 1992 ford f-150 5.0 that I SWAP engine with a 1994 to 1996 Bronco engine 5.0. But I'm having a misfire on one cylinder. I can't find the problem, could it be the Distributor pickup. I replace the ignition module the coil and new injectors still misfire. The truck do not have a crankshaft sensor. Somebody help me before I junk it and get a Chevy.
I have a question I have a 95 gt with 5.0 engine and swapped it with a 5.0 that came out of a 2000 moutaineer and changed it back to distribitor and it idles fine but upon acceleration it hesitates and pops and wants to die I've changed the plugs and wires and still does the same thing what can cause this problem it's driving me crazy
Hey Matt my name is Larry mcdaniel I have a 87 ford truck that I can't get it to run I've put all kinds of parts and the mission and it just will turn up like it's vapor locked or something please tell me what to do I mean I'm at my end with it thank you
Ok.. I have a 302 roller cam motor i put in my bronco. 65,000 org. Miles. Idles fine and revs up smooth. However when u accelerate it has nooo power. So New tp sensor New map New egr and solinoid New plugs and wires Cleaned throttle body New vacuum lines New distributor module New cap and rotor Any thoughts?
I got a new engine and a 924 F150 I will build and it went hot on me for the first time and it pushing the weather for any for a bad photo the top hose is hot but the bottom hose is cold why is it one is hot
Working on the same truck in the video timing a distributor I do not have a timing light and trying to find the timing marks that line up with the timing mark on the harmonic balancer for TDC can you help
Hello how are you today. Well a have a 1987 f150 Vin# 1FTEX15N2HKB10477 Is running so bad, shakes and sometimes runa better. I change spark plus, spark plus wires. But before I did Thah I check the firing orden and was completly wrong and I see THAT THE time Mark did not match on the ckank shaft pulley and on the distributor. Now the truck aint running. Bután the motor turns over. CSN you please help me with Who to set te timming marks on timming chain. I Will apreciated it. Thanks
Need some serious help haha. I have a 96 302, it runs extremely rough on start up until ect reaches 120 then smooth idle. when driving it is misfiring bad and I have codes p0320, p0385, rich both banks, and all the o2 sensors (straight piped from previous owner). When I got it it did not run due to snapped flexplate. so far I have changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, vacuum lines, timing set to 12 btdc with light and spout out, IAC cleaned, MAF reading on scan tool at 0.02lbs/s idle. no idea where to go from here.
I got a 95 ford f150 I just change the water pump now the truck wonts to idle rough and the motor will stall out going down the road I will let it set an idle for a few mins shoot it off it acts like it flooded it hard to start when the engine been running
I bought a 1989 f150 5.0.Ran rough got it home did tune up still rough plus it would act like a dragging starter when warmed up.Well I did a rookie mistake ALWAYS DO A COMPRESSION TEST.LOL Number 1 had 0.The valve was bent push rod bent.Ive almost got the top end back together.Installed headers removed EGR tricked out the computer with delete plug plus added fancy filters to it.Its moneying more than my ex wife.
Hi I got a 89 Bronco 4×4 302 with 400k miles Changed water pump spark plug wires spark plugs cap new battery . The problem is when I rev it up and let off it backfires bad and has lost so much power that it can barely move its self . I'm thinking timing chain the compression is from 110 psi to 170psi completely out of spec did leak down test and show good it idles good and starts first time every time it says no1 not contributing thats the only code
my 1992 f 150 with a 302 has no power. I replace the TPS, catalytic converter, distributor, and checked the timing. still no power. compression test shows from 115 to 110. could the timing chain cause this his? she will run down a flat road at 80mph, but no power up hill or pulling a small trailer. at my whits end on this old girl.
Hello, I have a few questions for you. please bear with me hear. 1. how many miles does the engine have? 2. what is the pattern of the compression? I.E cylinder 1=110 cylinder 2=115 cylinder 3 =110?????? 110-115 is not a large variance. in my opinion 110-115 is also not the healthiest of compression. I have seen worse though and still have power in a 302. you have ruled out the dist and tps and cat convert. AWESOME. before I would say we have enough justification to break the engine down and check the chain I would want to know what color the spark is?? do you have a in line tester or can you pull a plug and check to see? I think you are going in the right direction. I just like having all my basis covered before opening up a engine. However I think it maybe time to check your chain.
I have a 1990 Ford f-150 EFI 302 and it's leaking antifreeze behind the water pump. I found that out after replacing the water pump and noticing after filling with antifreeze that the antifreeze was pouring out somewhere behind the water pump and the driver's side. Would that be from the intake manifold water jacket ? My son bought this from a friend that said a stud or bolt had broken on the front of the intake manifold but it had been running fine, and for us it was running fine as well but since this leak had shown up I'm wondering if that would be something to look at. Thanks Rick Christensen
I have a 92 f150.I removed all smog including egr and it runs so good but about a week ago my pickup distributor went out so when I pulled distributor the rod for the oil pump came with it then it fell in the oil pan.i would think something holds it in there,it's been a pain cause I'm doing all this in the snow while it's snowing so was wanting to make sure this can't happen again! Any advice would be appreciated but it's not that bad I have a heater underneath there in the tarp over the truck so pretty warm lol
i have a 91 brick nose with a 302 and the thing misfires on cylinders 6 and 7 i'm guessing because when i pulled the plugs they both smelled like fuel and you can just blatantly hear it . i also have true duel exhaust meaning the pipes never touch (exception for the o2 sensor) but it smokes heavily out of the right side. and i cannot figure out why it misfires. it sat for 7 years then got driven for 3 years then sat for another 5 until now. I have done some work like fixing the water pump. i put new plugs and wires on it and it didn't change at all. my timing mark seems to have slipped because cylinder 1 is dead top center and the mark is 30 degrees away from the mark on the block. also do you think this could just be injectors dumping fuel into the cylinder?
HEy man love ur Video, I got a 91-351 bronco that has terrible miss problems, the computer when diagnosed shows a pass on it self, we replaced the internal picup of the distrbuter and even swapped out coils, but its till cranking like its super advanced and if it quits at idle it will not restart ????????? please if ou can help !!!
Matt Shaughnessy yeah I actually saw a video from // south main auto called. F1 50 stuck on fast idle/hard start when hot. So my father did the same thing pulled the coolant temperature sensor off-line and truck ran normally
Matt, I have spark after changing the ingnition module. Had to hard wire my FP relay to get fuel pump to run, which it does. I have 25-30 psi on my pressure guage. It turns over and tries to start with starter fluid. I don't know if I am getting a rpm signal. I turn the key but don't see a check engine light, but it could be burned out. . I am going to try and check the codes with a cheap OBD 1 reader. Will a coil pickup stop this from starting
My 92 5.0 gets hot and sluggish only when it's really really hot out. It's got me puzzled. I'm thinking I'll start w a new tstat. maybe it's not opening all the way. timing is my next guess. can I just adjust the distributor shaft?
is it EFI or NON EFI? I can post the factory procedure for you if you would like. Also my Email is Highgrooveauto30@gmail.com. I have been known to trade numbers and walk people through procedures.
I have a 1992 ford f.150 5.8lt had a tune up done and since then my truck started running like crap..The tune up included oil change new cables and they said that my distributor needed to be replaced so I got a new one.. Had new spark plugs put in and when I got my truck like 2 days after it started shaking while going 35-45 since then it just runs crappy.. I don't drive it now since it's still sitting there can't seem to find problem.. what can u suggest to do?
Hey there. Ive had my truvk for 2 years. 89 f150 5.0 2whl drive. Almost everything attached to the block is new. This is my first mechanical experience, however, being a perfectionist im struggling. I just recently had the front tank filling the back tank, rither through the return lines or through the tank select valve. Not the issue at hand, just giving you all info. She was running awesome, getting around 20 miles to the gsllon, and never failed to start. Then she started running rough. Couldnt find any power, yet idled fine. Im replacing the converter, and it ran loud as hell but ran none the less to get me home with a grinder taken to the side of the old one to empty it. I font know which direction to go or what to try and dont have qhats needed including money to test everything. Please help me, i drpend on this truck. Im about to fold my business. Is important to life matters i get it running correctly again. Please.
Need help with my 1997 f250 it will run fine in park but when I put it in drive and give it gas it bogs down and I have to pat the gas idk what is going on any help thanks
What do you think of ready to go HEI distributor upgrade compared to the OEM? the goal is to get a little bit better fuel efficiency. Any advice would be greatly appreciated for my 1990 Lincoln Town car Windsor v8 5.0.
I've got a 1990 F-250 with a 302 and M5R2 trans. It has 130,000 original miles and is EFI. My question is; with this being a heavier truck compared to the F-150, what are some of the most efficient things I can do "bang for the buck" to get some more power out of it. I have heard that increasing the timing helps but may need to run premium if it's set too high? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I am not opposed to ripping stuff off other trucks at a junk yard either. Thanks, Nate.
thanx man. it is efi. my temp gauge was kinda bouncing this morning but never got hot or lost power. may be that Tstat isn't opening all the way. I do need to check timing tho. i heard it came make them run hot. mine is hesitant from a stop. egr has been deleted not sure if there's a block plate. I still got the lines that dangle from the back of the heads. That could be a vacuum issue tho I reckon.
Hey Matt I realize this is an older video, but you seem to be well versed in the ford engines. I however am not at all. I have a 1995 F150 5.0 with an odd sounding tick. I replaced all lifters, push rods and rocker arms still ticking. I replaced exhaust manifolds along with the y pipe/cat no change in the noise. Spark plugs are good, new wires, new cap/rotor, and sitting at 12 degrees timing at idle with spout out. I’m starting to think it may be engine knock, though it has 120,000 miles, and was owned by a family friend since new, was always well taken care of. The noise is very metallic sounding and is audible at idle and if you rev the engine or as you come to a stop (idling down). Using a stethoscope the most crisp spot I hear the sound is at the timing cover. Have you ever heard of these motor’s timing chain hitting the cover possibly causing this noise?
1990 f250, 5.0, new distributor, new tps, new vss, new tfi, new IAC, new cap, rotor, wires and plugs, new vss, new map sensor, still runs rough and pops out of the exhaust pipe, what's the problem??? #MissinginMississippi$!?&#@
have you done any diagnostics? compression check? leak down check? pulled cover and checked timing chain? I would start with a compression check. see if it is low or if there is a major variable in one of the cylinders.
matthew shaughnessy, i have a 92 f150 v8 302, i recently had the engine rebuilt, the engine is now back in the truck but starting it is becoming a challenge, the engine will crank and crank but it will not fire unless you take the plug wire off of the first plug then it acts like it wants to start, when you put the plug wire back on the plug the truck will start but then it will run extremely rough, any ideas on what it could be?
"first plug"=??????........are you specifically pulling cylinder one spark wire? have you tried pulling off other wires and seeing if there is a difference? can you install a inline spark tester on the plug you pull to observe spark? I have had this exact thing happen to me before during diagnostics. One time on a Chevy I found it was due to a faulty fuel injector. Another time it was on a ford and it was due to timing, last but not least I had some one bring in a ford last year that had a very similar issue and it was because the wires had been replaced and wired wrong. I.E. 1 was on 5 and 5 was on 1. WHen my partner comes in we will put our heads together on this one. heads up.......we may have to think out side the box on this one.
matthew shaughnessy ok after being at it for awhile were still stumped ive heard ignition coil replaved it no change, i followed the spark plug wiring diagram in a haynes manual, onced again it cranks and crank pull the plug off cylinder one and the truck will almost start, put the plug wire back on and it start and run rough.
Ok, When you pull a spark plug wire off a spark plug and attempt to start you saturate the coil with kilo volts (KV). or in simple terms when you pull the plug wire off the electricity has no were else to go but back to the coil over saturating it. replace said plug wire and now the over saturated electricity has a place to go and it will start the truck. So now my question is........What color is the spark on your tester. you want a bright blue spark.
i have a 96 f150 351w and when i go and start it in the morning after it sits all night or if i let it sit durring the day, i will go to start it and it fires but then spits and sputters until it quits. if i keep my foot on the gas for a little while it will start to idle fine. after that it runs fine but have noticed a drop in power. what could this be.
i have replaced tps, egr, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor (2 yrs ago), fuel filter. I was thinking it could be the check valve in the fuel pump, or it could also be the timing chain not quite shure.
I've been having problems with my truck over heating,,the thermostat was changed out, there was a link after it was reinstalled so, I had it redone this idiot did something now gage is going back in forth to hot n cold.. with that having problems with the alternator, I was out checking my truck last night n found there"s a plug right above where the thermostat housing, is loose,,what is that wire called? n I mean right above the thermostat housing. before I charge out my alternator I need to make that , that's the problem..plus I noticed that the hose right behind the alternator the that u screw on it was almost inbeded in the back of alternator , could that cause a shortage in alternator?
Thank u so much..i read my message., I'm surprised u understood a word of it. Lol.. need to make sure I read my message before I send it.. How ru doing.. hope ur great. So the plug that is loose is called a temp sensor? Ok great..u said coolant can cause alternator to go bad? That's weird.. I'm not sure I understand that.. please explain further.. Thank u.. I'm going to attempt to change or my alternator myself.. any advice?😀🤔
high how r you doing I have a 302 v8 high compression new motor and it wont start its on time getting gas but its only at 110 on the compression the front of the motor is getting fuel but the back of the motor #8 spark plug is wet with fuel it sparks out of the motor and it wont start and it has compression
Hello. I am doing great. Just working in shop. So basically you have good compression, you have good spark, and you have good fuel pressure? (fuel checked with pressure gauge?)
120 is enough compression to fire. a dead cylinder would be anything below 90 psi. I would like to see around 145ish though........lets see we need 3 things to make a internal combustion happen....Spark,fuel, and oxygen. We have verified that we know we have good compression however I would be curios what compression was on the other cylinders and if there is a drastic difference in the numbers regardless of how high or low they are. EXAMPLE....CYLINDER #5 120....CYLINDER #1 145....I would also be interested in fuel delivery. you say that the plug is wet? based off of this statement I would think that is safe to assume that feul is at least being delivered into the cylinders in question.....however is it being delivered properly? is it being atomized and then delivered to the cylinder or is it just dripping and spraying in there. I would also be interested on the history of the "new" engine. is it new from factory or newly rebuilt?
MY 1992 FRD F150 302 5.0 RUNS GOOD FOR 15 MINUTES THEN STARTS TO BOG AND I LOSE OIL PRESSURE DOES THIS MEAN MY BEARINGS ARE SHOT OR IS MY TIMING OFF ,AND IT STARTS RIGHT UP FIRST CRANK
(´94 - 302 EFI, HO firing order) Thanks Matt, had same sort of issues and changed timing chain (got the kit) but it wasn´t half bad. Pistons and rings have been changed, timing set to 10-12 (still playing with it) but with honed cylinders, new pistons and rings, I get 120psi per cylinder, but the car is extremely extremely slow. Will not go up any hill, accelerates extremely slow. Changed MAF, TPS, Fuel pump, new E40D, filters, cables, plugs, cap and rotor, etc. etc. but she just won´t drive normal. IMO 120 is not really good for new pistons and rings. (Vacuum holding steady around 22, not moving) ABout 7 mechanics have been looking but nobody knows. Any ideas where to look?
Thought the same; new chain + gears, all the same and car still sluggish. Another mechanic thought that the advance (not vacuum) is off, but I've seen it move perfectly with the gun (and doestn explain the compression). I am thinking; valves (but would be incredible for all compression to be 120 +/- 1.) Not running catalyst. MAF measured and showing correct readings. Did buy a O2 sensor that I haven't yet replaced, but won't explain compression. Only thing that may explain, in my limited experience, the compression could be a blocking in the exhaust, but they're all open, only 1 muffler. Still at a loss. For the money I've spent I could have easily have gotten a crated engine. I love this car and have no reason to let her go, but after three years of being overtaken bij 1.0l Chevrolet Sparks with 4 people in them... I don't know what else I can do.
possible valves. I have seen valves that are worn all across the board and are not shutting properly. most times though you will see compression that looks like 120-145-110-120-160....so on and so on. the same compression across the board with almost no difference makes me think that the timing is off a tooth or two and so ALL valves are opening and closing a little to soon. make sense???
Hi Matt, yes. That did make sense and so I changed chain and gears last week. Exact same results... :-( I´m almost thinking exhaust restriction, but got no cats and only one muffler. What is weird is that I asked the mechanic to change the O2sensor that I ahd bought, and he told me there was none... I forgot to check it, but will this week... No O2sensor=no data on rich/lean, right? So the computer doesn´t know what to do, I assume. Thnx for your replies Matt.
Jaco Mijderwijk so even though I got 20 years experience in this industry one of my philosophies in life is always remain teachable. My current business mentor has 50 years experience as an automotive engineer and a successful shop owner. I see him and talk to him on the weekends over coffee. I'm going to go ahead and take all this information that you've given me here and run it by him and see what he has to say I'll get back to you this weekend about it.
hey there is I got an 88 f150 xlt lariat v8 efi I changed plugs wires rotor n cap a month later got hesitation n loss of power transmission is good changed tps sensor n driver side fuel pump n fuel filter I'm pushing towards timing being advanced or what not any ideas would be greatly appreciated
I checked vacuum pressure but not compression going to get timing light today to check timing can I use a timing light to see if timing is off or to just set timing
Jason Echols you can use it to check timing if it is off loosen distributor and try to adjust. valves not properly opening and closing will cause a pop or backfire out of the exhaust. a loose timing chain can cause this
Jason Echols also I am wondering what the actual spark looks like when starting or running. is it orange or blue? a spark tester can help. or just pull a plug and observe it while some one is turning the engine over.
Same happened to me... Ended up breaking the timing cover trying to get it out. Then decided to replace oil pan gasket since I had the cover off. 2 years later and I just finished a rebuild and just dropped the motor back I'm today. 😂
I have a 1992 e150 with a 5.0 I'm losing power and wen I first turn the engine over it knocks then stops. but if I put it in neutral and push the gas it refuses to go anywhere above 35 grand.
Hey nice video explanation, I could use your advise, I have an 88 f150 5.0 115k on mileage so very low, been working on it, changed oil added some sea foam and now Cylinder#2 is fouling plugs, runs ok at high rpm 2200-2500 but low 1st gear missing chuggin and the like...Going to compression test just this cylinder as all other plug nice grey color, what should the gauge tell me, also to note that i went against better judgment and install NAPA plugs wires cap rotor do to price and changes oil with 1030 high mileage valvoline and added 5 oz seafoam to engine oil, drove like a champ after shut it down for a few hours then the miss started spark plug #2 is black with oil residue...thanks in advanced...
any where between 135 on up to 145-150 for the 302 HO aka "GT". even though I have 20 years experience my self I always have a "mentor" that is the exception to my in my industry. I am going to talk with him later today and I want to run this one by him. He has 50 years experience 35 of it as a shop owner himself :). I will get back with you on this one.
hey matt thanks for the video i am having the same sort of trouble with my truck, to be honest if you have a minute im having a number of issues with with and i just need to get this thing to run right. let me know where a good place to contact you is
Matt Shaughnessy , I enjoy your videos because you seem to explain the project in good detail. I have a 92’ F-150, 5.0, timing chain cover was suspect of leaking water. I took on the task in my driveway, motor in truck. I seem to have a problem getting the cover to seat back COMPLETELY in place. If you’re like me, it will probably be a day or two before you get back with me, but did you do a video on the 5.0 that you showed how to clean it up? I’m in Jacksonville, Florida, my phone number is (904)451-7467, if you have the time to give me a call.. if not, no worries.. thank you
I'm working on a 5.0 as well is fouling a couple of spark plugs already changed injectors and even opened up head everything looks good this engine was redone 2 years ago so internally don't think is the problem. I'd it either the computer or bad timing?
I've changed a few water pumps on these engines, and surely youre gonna break those longer bolts that go into the block that enter the water passage.
I would recommend getting ARP heat treated water pump bolts. They have a higher tensil strength and can handle the twisting force needed to remove them. Also, instead of putting a sealant on the bolt thread because as you screw the bolt in, the hole itself will tend to " clean those theads off. If you put sealant inside the hole, the bolt will then push the sealant along and seal as it goes in.
I broke one in the block and left it. Just put water pump gasket maker over the hole and put liquid aluminum in the radiator lol
Engine not starting number 8 was at 75 % compression and number 7 was at 45% compresio only 2 that i tested could that be timeing chain?
Yes valves opening at different times when they are not supposed to
@@MattShaughnessy6 thank you are they a pain in the butt to do on a 1995 ford e150 econoline van do you know?
@@bigjproffitt8128 i have a 95 e350 its a Pretty tight work space. Little bit of a pain.
@@chrissanders2562 thank you just found out it dosent have any compresion😭
@@bigjproffitt8128on all cylinders?
I got 1995 f150 5.0 with 312,200 miles on it and it runs great.
I have a 92 f150 XLT 5.0 EFI with a check engine light. It seems a lot of shops are not eager to or don't have the proper tools to diagnose obd 1 check engine light issues. My registration is due this month and check engine light is automatic fail for emissions. I'm in Arizona. Also my ignition timing is not adjustable.
What's the cheapest route to take if I take it to a shop vs diy? I have an obd 1 scanner I was going to use just see what codes pop up before taking it to the shop so I could give them an idea of where to start repairs. My truck has issues but at this point I just need to deal with the check engine light so I can pass emissions.
I have a 1991 f150 5.0 and it doesn't want to start when it's over 95 degree outside any idea what could be causing this
I got a 93 Ford 150 XL four wheel drive change the distributor the cap the rotor button spark plugs spark plug wires sounds like it wants to start but don't start if I I'm kind of lost on it it's got the V8 50
I have 1996 xl ford f150 5.0 v8 efi got new spark plugs, ignition coil , relays , fuel regulator. Some days it’ll crank an run fine after driving it next day itll turn over but won’t start up, idk what it could be bad fuel pump or starter ?
My 87 timing chain slipped off replaced also new distributor seems to run ok until I engage to drive then it's rough I have new trans any ideas
I have a 1993 f150 that is running ruff when I first start her up she get real bad when it's cold any suggestions
My uncle has replaced the fuel pump spark plugs and also had changed the oil but it's still a no start what could it be
I have a 94 f150 it stalls out when putting in drive or reverse if put back in park motor runs fine my over drive light is also blinking
I have the same problem, if you figure it out please let me know what it was
Do 91 f250s 7.5l have a crank sensor?
Hello Sir
I got a 1992 ford f-150 5.0 that I SWAP engine with a 1994 to 1996 Bronco engine 5.0. But I'm having a misfire on one cylinder. I can't find the problem, could it be the Distributor pickup. I replace the ignition module the coil and new injectors still misfire. The truck do not have a crankshaft sensor. Somebody help me before I junk it and get a Chevy.
Email me and we can talk earlier. highgrooveauto30@gmail.com
*easier* not "earlier" LOL.
I have a question I have a 95 gt with 5.0 engine and swapped it with a 5.0 that came out of a 2000 moutaineer and changed it back to distribitor and it idles fine but upon acceleration it hesitates and pops and wants to die I've changed the plugs and wires and still does the same thing what can cause this problem it's driving me crazy
They different 5.0s and have different firing orders. That could possibly be it. The GT has different firing order than the stock 5.0
Hey Matt my name is Larry mcdaniel I have a 87 ford truck that I can't get it to run I've put all kinds of parts and the mission and it just will turn up like it's vapor locked or something please tell me what to do I mean I'm at my end with it thank you
Hey brother thanks I can tell you are a good mechanic
Thanks for posting
Would you say the timing chain going bad sounds more like a chirp, or is that more likely to be the serpentine belt?
Thank you for taking the time to help us out. God bless and peace be with you.
1996 f150 5.0L dies when driving sometimes has over 300,000 miles on it then starts back up.
Ok.. I have a 302 roller cam motor i put in my bronco. 65,000 org. Miles. Idles fine and revs up smooth. However when u accelerate it has nooo power. So
New tp sensor
New map
New egr and solinoid
New plugs and wires
Cleaned throttle body
New vacuum lines
New distributor module
New cap and rotor
Any thoughts?
compression and leak down test check the valves and timing. any MIL's come on?
Is there a way I could have you fix mine
I got a new engine and a 924 F150 I will build and it went hot on me for the first time and it pushing the weather for any for a bad photo the top hose is hot but the bottom hose is cold why is it one is hot
Is it normal for oil to get sucked into the air cleaner box thru the hose going to the left valve cover?
No check the pvc system oil can come from there.
Working on the same truck in the video timing a distributor I do not have a timing light and trying to find the timing marks that line up with the timing mark on the harmonic balancer for TDC can you help
Hello how are you today.
Well a have a 1987 f150
Vin# 1FTEX15N2HKB10477
Is running so bad, shakes and sometimes runa better. I change spark plus, spark plus wires. But before I did Thah I check the firing orden and was completly wrong and I see THAT THE time Mark did not match on the ckank shaft pulley and on the distributor. Now the truck aint running. Bután the motor turns over. CSN you please help me with Who to set te timming marks on timming chain. I Will apreciated it. Thanks
did you get this figured out? email me highgrooveauto30@gmail.com
Thanks for video I have 91 Ford F-150 5.0 xlt lariat having trouble taking off any susgestion
Can coolant go in through the timing chain cover if the water pump is not good
Need some serious help haha. I have a 96 302, it runs extremely rough on start up until ect reaches 120 then smooth idle. when driving it is misfiring bad and I have codes p0320, p0385, rich both banks, and all the o2 sensors (straight piped from previous owner). When I got it it did not run due to snapped flexplate. so far I have changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel pump, vacuum lines, timing set to 12 btdc with light and spout out, IAC cleaned, MAF reading on scan tool at 0.02lbs/s idle. no idea where to go from here.
@@Greasemonkeygarage651 PCM
How much would a shop charge to replace timing change water pump and front and rear main seal if I already have all the parts and gaskets
check out repairpal.com
I got a 95 ford f150 I just change the water pump now the truck wonts to idle rough and the motor will stall out going down the road I will let it set an idle for a few mins shoot it off it acts like it flooded it hard to start when the engine been running
Whats the right firing order for a 92 bronco 5.0 efi?? Cant get a straight answer i keep getting 2 firing orders..thanks
Email me the VIN number. There two different firing orders for that year. I can find the right one per VIN....... highgrooveauto30@gmail.com
I just did the compression check on my 94 f150 5.0 and all the cilindesr were 120 to 125 PSI, is that wood or bad. ?? .
I bought a 1989 f150 5.0.Ran rough got it home did tune up still rough plus it would act like a dragging starter when warmed up.Well I did a rookie mistake ALWAYS DO A COMPRESSION TEST.LOL Number 1 had 0.The valve was bent push rod bent.Ive almost got the top end back together.Installed headers removed EGR tricked out the computer with delete plug plus added fancy filters to it.Its moneying more than my ex wife.
Hi I got a 89 Bronco 4×4 302 with 400k miles Changed water pump spark plug wires spark plugs cap new battery . The problem is when I rev it up and let off it backfires bad and has lost so much power that it can barely move its self . I'm thinking timing chain the compression is from 110 psi to 170psi completely out of spec did leak down test and show good it idles good and starts first time every time it says no1 not contributing thats the only code
my 1992 f 150 with a 302 has no power. I replace the TPS, catalytic converter, distributor, and checked the timing. still no power. compression test shows from 115 to 110. could the timing chain cause this his? she will run down a flat road at 80mph, but no power up hill or pulling a small trailer. at my whits end on this old girl.
Hello, I have a few questions for you. please bear with me hear.
1. how many miles does the engine have?
2. what is the pattern of the compression? I.E cylinder 1=110 cylinder 2=115 cylinder 3 =110??????
110-115 is not a large variance. in my opinion 110-115 is also not the healthiest of compression. I have seen worse though and still have power in a 302. you have ruled out the dist and tps and cat convert. AWESOME. before I would say we have enough justification to break the engine down and check the chain I would want to know what color the spark is?? do you have a in line tester or can you pull a plug and check to see? I think you are going in the right direction. I just like having all my basis covered before opening up a engine. However I think it maybe time to check your chain.
The traveling Elk timing chain and gear certainly will
I have a 94 ford 460 cranking but no start I change the icm rotor distributor and still no start what else can it be please help
I have a 1990 Ford f-150 EFI 302 and it's leaking antifreeze behind the water pump. I found that out after replacing the water pump and noticing after filling with antifreeze that the antifreeze was pouring out somewhere behind the water pump and the driver's side. Would that be from the intake manifold water jacket ? My son bought this from a friend that said a stud or bolt had broken on the front of the intake manifold but it had been running fine, and for us it was running fine as well but since this leak had shown up I'm wondering if that would be something to look at. Thanks Rick Christensen
yes!!!! I think you are on the right track.
Its the timing cover gasket I had exactly the same problem and replaced the water oump not knowing
I have a 92 f150.I removed all smog including egr and it runs so good but about a week ago my pickup distributor went out so when I pulled distributor the rod for the oil pump came with it then it fell in the oil pan.i would think something holds it in there,it's been a pain cause I'm doing all this in the snow while it's snowing so was wanting to make sure this can't happen again! Any advice would be appreciated but it's not that bad I have a heater underneath there in the tarp over the truck so pretty warm lol
i have a 91 brick nose with a 302 and the thing misfires on cylinders 6 and 7 i'm guessing because when i pulled the plugs they both smelled like fuel and you can just blatantly hear it . i also have true duel exhaust meaning the pipes never touch (exception for the o2 sensor) but it smokes heavily out of the right side. and i cannot figure out why it misfires. it sat for 7 years then got driven for 3 years then sat for another 5 until now. I have done some work like fixing the water pump. i put new plugs and wires on it and it didn't change at all. my timing mark seems to have slipped because cylinder 1 is dead top center and the mark is 30 degrees away from the mark on the block. also do you think this could just be injectors dumping fuel into the cylinder?
HEy man love ur Video, I got a 91-351 bronco that has terrible miss problems, the computer when diagnosed shows a pass on it self, we replaced the internal picup of the distrbuter and even swapped out coils, but its till cranking like its super advanced and if it quits at idle it will not restart ????????? please if ou can help !!!
checked timing marks? or compression?
Matt Shaughnessy /// actually bro. I found on the net if the coolant sensor goes nuts it can do this. I saw video and disconnect it and it ran fine.
Awesome glad you got it figured out!
Matt Shaughnessy yeah I actually saw a video from // south main auto called. F1 50 stuck on fast idle/hard start when hot. So my father did the same thing pulled the coolant temperature sensor off-line and truck ran normally
Matt, I have spark after changing the ingnition module. Had to hard wire my FP relay to get fuel pump to run, which it does. I have 25-30 psi on my pressure guage. It turns over and tries to start with starter fluid. I don't know if I am getting a rpm signal. I turn the key but don't see a check engine light, but it could be burned out. . I am going to try and check the codes with a cheap OBD 1 reader. Will a coil pickup stop this from starting
On these trucks if you turn the key one click you should see all the dash lights turn on. Even Check Engine. GL bro
Hey bro I was wondering how do I set my timing..it gots spark but it’s not starting..do u have any idea why it’s like that.?
My 92 5.0 gets hot and sluggish only when it's really really hot out. It's got me puzzled. I'm thinking I'll start w a new tstat. maybe it's not opening all the way. timing is my next guess. can I just adjust the distributor shaft?
is it EFI or NON EFI? I can post the factory procedure for you if you would like. Also my Email is Highgrooveauto30@gmail.com. I have been known to trade numbers and walk people through procedures.
@@MattShaughnessy6w 'll u please call me 9132461288 im no good with computer my truck 92 302 wont start I have worked my ass off I am stumped
I have a 1992 ford f.150 5.8lt had a tune up done and since then my truck started running like crap..The tune up included oil change new cables and they said that my distributor needed to be replaced so I got a new one.. Had new spark plugs put in and when I got my truck like 2 days after it started shaking while going 35-45 since then it just runs crappy.. I don't drive it now since it's still sitting there can't seem to find problem.. what can u suggest to do?
if the dist was removed I would first want to shoot the timing and make sure it was adjusted correctly. also check spark plug gap.
Will do Thankyou
Hey there. Ive had my truvk for 2 years. 89 f150 5.0 2whl drive. Almost everything attached to the block is new. This is my first mechanical experience, however, being a perfectionist im struggling. I just recently had the front tank filling the back tank, rither through the return lines or through the tank select valve. Not the issue at hand, just giving you all info. She was running awesome, getting around 20 miles to the gsllon, and never failed to start. Then she started running rough. Couldnt find any power, yet idled fine. Im replacing the converter, and it ran loud as hell but ran none the less to get me home with a grinder taken to the side of the old one to empty it. I font know which direction to go or what to try and dont have qhats needed including money to test everything. Please help me, i drpend on this truck. Im about to fold my business. Is important to life matters i get it running correctly again. Please.
Need help with my 1997 f250 it will run fine in park but when I put it in drive and give it gas it bogs down and I have to pat the gas idk what is going on any help thanks
Muffler or exhaust stopped up
What do you think of ready to go HEI distributor upgrade compared to the OEM? the goal is to get a little bit better fuel efficiency.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated for my 1990 Lincoln Town car Windsor v8 5.0.
I've got a 1990 F-250 with a 302 and M5R2 trans. It has 130,000 original miles and is EFI. My question is; with this being a heavier truck compared to the F-150, what are some of the most efficient things I can do "bang for the buck" to get some more power out of it. I have heard that increasing the timing helps but may need to run premium if it's set too high? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. I am not opposed to ripping stuff off other trucks at a junk yard either. Thanks, Nate.
Hey I have a 1996 f150 with the same engine and I’m having a problem with knock sensor can you do a video on that
Robert Crawley same here
thanx man. it is efi. my temp gauge was kinda bouncing this morning but never got hot or lost power. may be that Tstat isn't opening all the way. I do need to check timing tho. i heard it came make them run hot. mine is hesitant from a stop. egr has been deleted not sure if there's a block plate. I still got the lines that dangle from the back of the heads. That could be a vacuum issue tho I reckon.
1995 Ford F-150 5.0 quit instantly can get it running but timing is jumping all over the place what could it be
how many miles? loose chain?
Hey Matt I realize this is an older video, but you seem to be well versed in the ford engines. I however am not at all. I have a 1995 F150 5.0 with an odd sounding tick. I replaced all lifters, push rods and rocker arms still ticking. I replaced exhaust manifolds along with the y pipe/cat no change in the noise. Spark plugs are good, new wires, new cap/rotor, and sitting at 12 degrees timing at idle with spout out. I’m starting to think it may be engine knock, though it has 120,000 miles, and was owned by a family friend since new, was always well taken care of. The noise is very metallic sounding and is audible at idle and if you rev the engine or as you come to a stop (idling down). Using a stethoscope the most crisp spot I hear the sound is at the timing cover. Have you ever heard of these motor’s timing chain hitting the cover possibly causing this noise?
1990 f250, 5.0, new distributor, new tps, new vss, new tfi, new IAC, new cap, rotor, wires and plugs, new vss, new map sensor, still runs rough and pops out of the exhaust pipe, what's the problem??? #MissinginMississippi$!?&#@
have you done any diagnostics? compression check? leak down check? pulled cover and checked timing chain? I would start with a compression check. see if it is low or if there is a major variable in one of the cylinders.
matthew shaughnessy, i have a 92 f150 v8 302, i recently had the engine rebuilt, the engine is now back in the truck but starting it is becoming a challenge, the engine will crank and crank but it will not fire unless you take the plug wire off of the first plug then it acts like it wants to start, when you put the plug wire back on the plug the truck will start but then it will run extremely rough, any ideas on what it could be?
"first plug"=??????........are you specifically pulling cylinder one spark wire? have you tried pulling off other wires and seeing if there is a difference? can you install a inline spark tester on the plug you pull to observe spark? I have had this exact thing happen to me before during diagnostics. One time on a Chevy I found it was due to a faulty fuel injector. Another time it was on a ford and it was due to timing, last but not least I had some one bring in a ford last year that had a very similar issue and it was because the wires had been replaced and wired wrong. I.E. 1 was on 5 and 5 was on 1. WHen my partner comes in we will put our heads together on this one. heads up.......we may have to think out side the box on this one.
matthew shaughnessy ok after being at it for awhile were still stumped ive heard ignition coil replaved it no change, i followed the spark plug wiring diagram in a haynes manual, onced again it cranks and crank pull the plug off cylinder one and the truck will almost start, put the plug wire back on and it start and run rough.
matthew shaughnessy and my plug is getting great fire thats why im confused
Ok, When you pull a spark plug wire off a spark plug and attempt to start you saturate the coil with kilo volts (KV). or in simple terms when you pull the plug wire off the electricity has no were else to go but back to the coil over saturating it. replace said plug wire and now the over saturated electricity has a place to go and it will start the truck.
So now my question is........What color is the spark on your tester. you want a bright blue spark.
also a reason why number one is being the butthead is because it is the farthest from the distributor
i have a 96 f150 351w and when i go and start it in the morning after it sits all night or if i let it sit durring the day, i will go to start it and it fires but then spits and sputters until it quits. if i keep my foot on the gas for a little while it will start to idle fine. after that it runs fine but have noticed a drop in power. what could this be.
i have replaced tps, egr, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor (2 yrs ago), fuel filter. I was thinking it could be the check valve in the fuel pump, or it could also be the timing chain not quite shure.
i also replaced the iac valve and fuel pressure regulator
what diagnostics have you performed? visual inspections? timing chain? compression check?
I've been having problems with my truck over heating,,the thermostat was changed out, there was a link after it was reinstalled so, I had it redone this idiot did something now gage is going back in forth to hot n cold.. with that having problems with the alternator, I was out checking my truck last night n found there"s a plug right above where the thermostat housing, is loose,,what is that wire called? n I mean right above the thermostat housing. before I charge out my alternator I need to make that , that's the problem..plus I noticed that the hose right behind the alternator the that u screw on it was almost inbeded in the back of alternator , could that cause a shortage in alternator?
Sounds like your temp sensor maybe unplugged and yes if I read this correctly coolant can cause an alternator to short out.
Thank u so much..i read my message., I'm surprised u understood a word of it. Lol.. need to make sure I read my message before I send it.. How ru doing.. hope ur great. So the plug that is loose is called a temp sensor? Ok great..u said coolant can cause alternator to go bad? That's weird.. I'm not sure I understand that.. please explain further.. Thank u.. I'm going to attempt to change or my alternator myself.. any advice?😀🤔
high how r you doing I have a 302 v8 high compression new motor and it wont start its on time getting gas but its only at 110 on the compression the front of the motor is getting fuel but the back of the motor #8 spark plug is wet with fuel it sparks out of the motor and it wont start and it has compression
Hello. I am doing great. Just working in shop. So basically you have good compression, you have good spark, and you have good fuel pressure? (fuel checked with pressure gauge?)
yes #5 and #8 seems to be flooded but the compression is only 120 and I was told that's ok for a new motor
120 is enough compression to fire. a dead cylinder would be anything below 90 psi. I would like to see around 145ish though........lets see we need 3 things to make a internal combustion happen....Spark,fuel, and oxygen. We have verified that we know we have good compression however I would be curios what compression was on the other cylinders and if there is a drastic difference in the numbers regardless of how high or low they are. EXAMPLE....CYLINDER #5 120....CYLINDER #1 145....I would also be interested in fuel delivery. you say that the plug is wet? based off of this statement I would think that is safe to assume that feul is at least being delivered into the cylinders in question.....however is it being delivered properly? is it being atomized and then delivered to the cylinder or is it just dripping and spraying in there. I would also be interested on the history of the "new" engine. is it new from factory or newly rebuilt?
new rebuilt and all the compression is the same at 120
if it had a intake valve stuck open would it still have compression in that cylinder
Had to change a few parts on mine when it was running rich
MY 1992 FRD F150 302 5.0 RUNS GOOD FOR 15 MINUTES THEN STARTS TO BOG AND I LOSE OIL PRESSURE DOES THIS MEAN MY BEARINGS ARE SHOT OR IS MY TIMING OFF ,AND IT STARTS RIGHT UP FIRST CRANK
gotta be something making fuel not burn good
(´94 - 302 EFI, HO firing order) Thanks Matt, had same sort of issues and changed timing chain (got the kit) but it wasn´t half bad. Pistons and rings have been changed, timing set to 10-12 (still playing with it) but with honed cylinders, new pistons and rings, I get 120psi per cylinder, but the car is extremely extremely slow. Will not go up any hill, accelerates extremely slow.
Changed MAF, TPS, Fuel pump, new E40D, filters, cables, plugs, cap and rotor, etc. etc. but she just won´t drive normal.
IMO 120 is not really good for new pistons and rings. (Vacuum holding steady around 22, not moving)
ABout 7 mechanics have been looking but nobody knows.
Any ideas where to look?
Jaco Mijderwijk I agree 120 is low for that engineer. Possible the chain is off a tooth?
Thought the same; new chain + gears, all the same and car still sluggish. Another mechanic thought that the advance (not vacuum) is off, but I've seen it move perfectly with the gun (and doestn explain the compression). I am thinking; valves (but would be incredible for all compression to be 120 +/- 1.)
Not running catalyst. MAF measured and showing correct readings. Did buy a O2 sensor that I haven't yet replaced, but won't explain compression.
Only thing that may explain, in my limited experience, the compression could be a blocking in the exhaust, but they're all open, only 1 muffler.
Still at a loss. For the money I've spent I could have easily have gotten a crated engine.
I love this car and have no reason to let her go, but after three years of being overtaken bij 1.0l Chevrolet Sparks with 4 people in them... I don't know what else I can do.
possible valves. I have seen valves that are worn all across the board and are not shutting properly. most times though you will see compression that looks like 120-145-110-120-160....so on and so on. the same compression across the board with almost no difference makes me think that the timing is off a tooth or two and so ALL valves are opening and closing a little to soon. make sense???
Hi Matt, yes. That did make sense and so I changed chain and gears last week. Exact same results... :-(
I´m almost thinking exhaust restriction, but got no cats and only one muffler.
What is weird is that I asked the mechanic to change the O2sensor that I ahd bought, and he told me there was none... I forgot to check it, but will this week... No O2sensor=no data on rich/lean, right? So the computer doesn´t know what to do, I assume.
Thnx for your replies Matt.
Jaco Mijderwijk so even though I got 20 years experience in this industry one of my philosophies in life is always remain teachable. My current business mentor has 50 years experience as an automotive engineer and a successful shop owner. I see him and talk to him on the weekends over coffee. I'm going to go ahead and take all this information that you've given me here and run it by him and see what he has to say I'll get back to you this weekend about it.
hey there is I got an 88 f150 xlt lariat v8 efi I changed plugs wires rotor n cap a month later got hesitation n loss of power transmission is good changed tps sensor n driver side fuel pump n fuel filter I'm pushing towards timing being advanced or what not any ideas would be greatly appreciated
sorry for the late response. I have had some tech issues with youtube. have you checked compression or shoot timing yet?
I checked vacuum pressure but not compression going to get timing light today to check timing can I use a timing light to see if timing is off or to just set timing
Any ideas on how to check compression
Jason Echols you can use it to check timing if it is off loosen distributor and try to adjust. valves not properly opening and closing will cause a pop or backfire out of the exhaust. a loose timing chain can cause this
Jason Echols also I am wondering what the actual spark looks like when starting or running. is it orange or blue? a spark tester can help. or just pull a plug and observe it while some one is turning the engine over.
Hey man, that bolt you were pointing @ broke on me now I can't get the water pump off its stuck on the bolt from rust I guess.
Any suggestions??
Same happened to me... Ended up breaking the timing cover trying to get it out. Then decided to replace oil pan gasket since I had the cover off. 2 years later and I just finished a rebuild and just dropped the motor back I'm today. 😂
I have a 1992 e150 with a 5.0 I'm losing power and wen I first turn the engine over it knocks then stops. but if I put it in neutral and push the gas it refuses to go anywhere above 35 grand.
Hey nice video explanation, I could use your advise, I have an 88 f150 5.0 115k on mileage so very low, been working on it, changed oil added some sea foam and now Cylinder#2 is fouling plugs, runs ok at high rpm 2200-2500 but low 1st gear missing chuggin and the like...Going to compression test just this cylinder as all other plug nice grey color, what should the gauge tell me, also to note that i went against better judgment and install NAPA plugs wires cap rotor do to price and changes oil with 1030 high mileage valvoline and added 5 oz seafoam to engine oil, drove like a champ after shut it down for a few hours then the miss started spark plug #2 is black with oil residue...thanks in advanced...
any where between 135 on up to 145-150 for the 302 HO aka "GT". even though I have 20 years experience my self I always have a "mentor" that is the exception to my in my industry. I am going to talk with him later today and I want to run this one by him. He has 50 years experience 35 of it as a shop owner himself :). I will get back with you on this one.
hey matt thanks for the video i am having the same sort of trouble with my truck, to be honest if you have a minute im having a number of issues with with and i just need to get this thing to run right. let me know where a good place to contact you is
Email me over the weekend. highgrooveauto30@gmail.com. let's start there. Thanks for watching and your support. don't forget to sub
Where do you get the bolts when you break them
hey man i have this problem with my f150 1990 302 .i put everything new cables cup spark plugs but still lossed some power
Hi Matt, seen ur vid 5 years ago and have tried everything with my 94 bronco (5.0) any possibility I can send you an email?
highgrooveauto30@gmail.com
Matt Shaughnessy , I enjoy your videos because you seem to explain the project in good detail. I have a 92’ F-150, 5.0, timing chain cover was suspect of leaking water. I took on the task in my driveway, motor in truck. I seem to have a problem getting the cover to seat back COMPLETELY in place. If you’re like me, it will probably be a day or two before you get back with me, but did you do a video on the 5.0 that you showed how to clean it up? I’m in Jacksonville, Florida, my phone number is (904)451-7467, if you have the time to give me a call.. if not, no worries.. thank you
@@MattShaughnessy6 hey Matt is there anyway I could talk to u my problem is kind of hard to explain f150 94 5.0l
@@clydedavis5766 email me highgrooveauto30@gmail.com we can go from there.
Was this the issue?
Ive got an 89 f150 5.0 that runs weak and about 2500-3000 rpm it bucks so bad you cant keep in it
Retarding the timing or advancing it doesn’t seem too affect it
That is alot of miles guy
89 f250 5.0 timing is it similar to the model on the video?
Bro. I just bought one as a project. Can you help
Ok
I have questions about my 5.0 it's a 93 f150.
I have some questions about my 1992 f150 5.0l please get ahold of me
Can you call me a new 92 302 its kicking my ass bad 9132461288
I have a 87 f150 5.0 engine when I start it and it will run for lil while then shit off it do same thing while driving
That front tire must be oem 222k miles......
hehe
Hello, I have a problem with my 1993 Ford F-150 5.0 ltrs. Can we give you a call? MSG, Skype, Viber,
Email me first highgrooveauto30@gmail.com. tell me what's going on.
My f150 has straight pipes and sounded really good had ignition timing set and now it’s quiet? Is this normal
If you decreased the timing then yes
I have a 93 f-150 with the 302 crank but not start help???