One thing to add. There were actually many substances used to stiffen buckram. I am not sure why Gum Tragcanth is so often used and mentioned, probably because it is most commonly mentioned in references. But in reallity it was a variarity of "gum´s and glue`s". Rabbit skin glue being one of them for example. But the best one, that is also not animal based, would be Gum Arabic. It was also used historically, has pretty much the same propertys as Gum Tragecanth and is much more avaible and cheaper than it, as it is commonly used as a food addiive or incense. A half kilo bag of a not food grade low quality Gum Arabic can be bougth of Amazon for like 10 dollars, which is perfect to use in making buckram.
Thank you for this awesome tutorial. Just wondering if there's a way to make buckram with a cheaper glue. I'm aware it's not historically accurate, but is there a way to do it without gum tragacanth?
It´s a bit late, but historically a plethora of glues and gums was used to make buckram. Gum Tragecanth is just the one most historical costumers use for some reason. Other examples include starch, rabbit skin glue and one example i found mentioned what maybe was even gelatine. But the best alternative, historically used too, regarding price and propertys, being basically indistingushable when used from Gum Tragecanth, is Gum Arabic. It´s commonly avaiable, Amzon has a lot of differnt offers, as does ebay and many other stores, and the price is, especially when you buy non food grade quality, very affordable. I had to pay for half a kilo around 10 dollars. If it´s not a powerder, you crush it, and dissolve about just under a spoon full of it in 2-3 cups of hot water for a good stiff result, but that can vary on the base fabric and what amount of stiffnes is wanted.
@@lazygardens I personally don´t like it as much. It has a differnt quality, creates different properties in a buckram and from my experiments it also does not hold up as well. I always reccomend Gum Arabic, easily avaiable, affordable and a historic stiffener in buckram too with pretty much the same properties as Gum Tragecanth.
Hi there, do you know if it is okay to iron tragacanth buckram - will it stick to the fabric I have it pinned to? Also, about the water soluble properties - I have heard that soaking stays and wearing them while they are drying will help form them to your body, is this not possible if there is a layer of buckram? Thank you
I know we iron it as part of broadcloth coat assembly. Be sure not to iron directly on it. And yes it is water soluble so that could be problematic if you wish to soak your stays.
What are you using for boning in your stays? If you're using plastic or zip-ties, I have found that my body heat is enough to shape them and keep them fairly well shaped for the future.
A little extra that was not mentioned here because it´s obscue historic knowledge. Ironing was part of the production of buckram. It was left to dry till it was still a bit tacky, and then pressed quiet hot till it was completely dry. That not only improves the quality of the buckram, makes it keep it´s stiffness better and flattens it, but aldso increases it`s resitance to wetness. Not to the degree of being washable obviously, but form experienc it can survive getting wet inside the clothes from strong rain for example. After drying and ironing my clothey are generally fine to go again and not worse for wear. And as long as it´s not wet, it won´t stick to the fabric when ironed.
@@GaladorHelm You can also, if you want something natural, use rottan. Same stuff used in woven funiture. It also gets moulded to the body over time and especially with hot temperatures does not impact the breathability as much as zip ties or artificial whalebone.
I once tested the waterfastness of buckram bought at the fabric store - and yes it's true, the gum dissolves completely if you soak it! Also, those gums are hard to find, could glue be used instead?
The gums used in the 18thc would dissolve in water, however buckrams was typically used in garments that were never washed by submersing. Many 18thc methods involved spot cleaning.
@@beckyaudette3831 You can also make hideglue completely water unsoluble by exposing it to formaldehyde fumes, making it waterproof. I mention this, since hideglue is extremely water soluble. You could also use casein based glue.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Starch was used, but not as often as tree resins or animal glues. For the same reasons, it´s much more suceptible to moisture and does not hold up as well.
Hi Kata! If the gum you're using is water soluble then it will wash out. Buckrams are not typically used in garments in the 18th century that would be washed in water, though, and more often are used in garments that would instead be cleaned using 18th century "dry cleaning" methods.
One thing to add. There were actually many substances used to stiffen buckram. I am not sure why Gum Tragcanth is so often used and mentioned, probably because it is most commonly mentioned in references. But in reallity it was a variarity of "gum´s and glue`s". Rabbit skin glue being one of them for example.
But the best one, that is also not animal based, would be Gum Arabic. It was also used historically, has pretty much the same propertys as Gum Tragecanth and is much more avaible and cheaper than it, as it is commonly used as a food addiive or incense. A half kilo bag of a not food grade low quality Gum Arabic can be bougth of Amazon for like 10 dollars, which is perfect to use in making buckram.
thank you so much for posting this!
Thank you for this awesome tutorial. Just wondering if there's a way to make buckram with a cheaper glue. I'm aware it's not historically accurate, but is there a way to do it without gum tragacanth?
You can buy small containers, enough for your project and more for under $10 thru Amazon
It´s a bit late, but historically a plethora of glues and gums was used to make buckram. Gum Tragecanth is just the one most historical costumers use for some reason. Other examples include starch, rabbit skin glue and one example i found mentioned what maybe was even gelatine. But the best alternative, historically used too, regarding price and propertys, being basically indistingushable when used from Gum Tragecanth, is Gum Arabic. It´s commonly avaiable, Amzon has a lot of differnt offers, as does ebay and many other stores, and the price is, especially when you buy non food grade quality, very affordable. I had to pay for half a kilo around 10 dollars. If it´s not a powerder, you crush it, and dissolve about just under a spoon full of it in 2-3 cups of hot water for a good stiff result, but that can vary on the base fabric and what amount of stiffnes is wanted.
So very interesting - thank you!!!
great. I cannot thank you enough. I stumbled upon this video. Is it ok for me to use xanthan gum to stiffen linen or do I need the tragacanth gum?
Xanthan also works.
@@lazygardens I personally don´t like it as much. It has a differnt quality, creates different properties in a buckram and from my experiments it also does not hold up as well. I always reccomend Gum Arabic, easily avaiable, affordable and a historic stiffener in buckram too with pretty much the same properties as Gum Tragecanth.
You mention hide glue as an option, which made me wonder: can you use gelatine for this?
Ohh don't know about that, have never tried! Hyde glue seems to be more resilient then I would imagine gelatin to be
I reccomend Gum Arabic.
Hi there, do you know if it is okay to iron tragacanth buckram - will it stick to the fabric I have it pinned to? Also, about the water soluble properties - I have heard that soaking stays and wearing them while they are drying will help form them to your body, is this not possible if there is a layer of buckram? Thank you
I know we iron it as part of broadcloth coat assembly. Be sure not to iron directly on it. And yes it is water soluble so that could be problematic if you wish to soak your stays.
What are you using for boning in your stays? If you're using plastic or zip-ties, I have found that my body heat is enough to shape them and keep them fairly well shaped for the future.
@@beckyaudette3831 Oh thank you. I'm using synthetic whalebone so that should work. If I ever finish them!
A little extra that was not mentioned here because it´s obscue historic knowledge. Ironing was part of the production of buckram. It was left to dry till it was still a bit tacky, and then pressed quiet hot till it was completely dry. That not only improves the quality of the buckram, makes it keep it´s stiffness better and flattens it, but aldso increases it`s resitance to wetness. Not to the degree of being washable obviously, but form experienc it can survive getting wet inside the clothes from strong rain for example. After drying and ironing my clothey are generally fine to go again and not worse for wear. And as long as it´s not wet, it won´t stick to the fabric when ironed.
@@GaladorHelm You can also, if you want something natural, use rottan. Same stuff used in woven funiture. It also gets moulded to the body over time and especially with hot temperatures does not impact the breathability as much as zip ties or artificial whalebone.
Hello soooo nice love from INDIA. PUNJAB 😘😘😘😘😘
I have always thought they used to sew the simple pieces of linen under the collars... Do you know something about the 1940's???
A bit but we can certainly research it!
I once tested the waterfastness of buckram bought at the fabric store - and yes it's true, the gum dissolves completely if you soak it! Also, those gums are hard to find, could glue be used instead?
The gums used in the 18thc would dissolve in water, however buckrams was typically used in garments that were never washed by submersing. Many 18thc methods involved spot cleaning.
Burnley and Trowbridge Co. I’m not that old! I was referring to buckram purchased last year.
Hide Glue can be used. Xanthan Gum can be found easily in the Bob's Red Mill section of the grocery store, or the gluten free section.
@@beckyaudette3831
You can also make hideglue completely water unsoluble by exposing it to formaldehyde fumes, making it waterproof.
I mention this, since hideglue is extremely water soluble.
You could also use casein based glue.
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge They also developed dry clean ing during the 18th century.
Can Elmer’s glue be used instead?
No, it would react to any moisture in the air and become sticky
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Also doesn´t work as nice as it drys too soft. A good alternative that works the same way and is historic is Gum Arabic.
Hi!
I found a rough linen fabric thats a 50/50 mix with cotton, would that work? I need a lot so that would make it a lot cheaper
Haven’t tried it with cotton which is limper and softer then linen, but worth an experiment.
I have tried it with linen/cotton blend and it works the same. You may just need to apply additional coat or two.
Do you think that wheat paste would work for this?
I don’t think so. Wheat paste is susceptible to moisture
@@BurnleyandTrowbridge Starch was used, but not as often as tree resins or animal glues. For the same reasons, it´s much more suceptible to moisture and does not hold up as well.
So you can't wash this?
Hi Kata! If the gum you're using is water soluble then it will wash out. Buckrams are not typically used in garments in the 18th century that would be washed in water, though, and more often are used in garments that would instead be cleaned using 18th century "dry cleaning" methods.
THIS IS AMAZING! T H A N K Y O U
Breno Pagoto thank you!