Most outdoor faucets are supplied with a 1/2" pipe which gives you around 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) to work with. You need to add up the gallons per minute your heads will use and try not to exceed the 5-6gpm. The heads I fed with this timer were Rain Bird 3504 rotors. I used two of the rotors and I installed 1.5gpm nozzles which would add up to 3gpm total usage, well within my ceiling of 5-6gpm.
Thanks man. I’m standing in Home Depot watching your video so I can make a more informative decision. ...the 4 outlet orbit says to ground rod and manifold. Literally made me stop and TH-cam. Lol
i did this procedure on mine and i lost the presure i had. it couldn't pop. not even 5 pop up sprinklers with the timer so i had to put everything back the way i had it . i have a shutoff valve and I was running 10 pop up sprinklers & i had good presure. any help i ll appreciate it
Hmm. The timer may be restricting the flow to the sprinkler heads. Usually faucet timers like this are fed with a 1/2" supply which would only give you 5-6 gpm to work with.
I'm getting water in the unit after 2 months of useing it and have to take back to store for an exchange, everyone of them are doing this. how can I stop it from happening?
@@Iscaper I installed a vacuum breaker between the tap and timer and one between the timer and hose and the pressure is significantly reduced to the point of the sprinklers being useless. There are no leaks or anything, but the pressure is very low. How can I fix this?
@@symbolize Try removing the one between the timer and hose. Remember you only have 5-6 gpm (gallons per minute) using a tap supplied by 1/2" pipe. Make sure your sprinklers don't exceed that limit.
Man, that setup could of been done for half the cost... there is no need for that to have the check valve or any of that fancy connecting fittings. the only reason for needing a check valve is if the main line is going to have standing water... the valve prevents water from going back into the house... If someone paid you to install this they should have had someone come in and just run another valve to that area... Also you don't need a pressure reducer for a rotating head (unless over 70 PSI BUT if coming from the house it should only be 50 PSI or less).... only drip irrigation needs reducers and 30 is too much, it should have been 15 or 20... (10 years irrigation experience)
We discussed the sprinkler valve option but it would have cost hundreds of dollars to go that route, and there was no good option for getting the timer wire from the back of the house to the garage where the timer was. It was much simpler and cheaper to do this option. I installed a pressure reducer because the owners wanted the option to add drip lines to this circuit in the future.
iScaper1 I noticed that you connected the check valve, which is metal, to the plastic threaded pressure reducer and the Orbit timer, but won't that present the risk of the metal thread eating into the plastic thread? I understand about the cheap homeowner from your comment but this question is more for my personal knowledge more than anything else. And thank you for the video.
Bubba Johnson You're right that the connection where metal meets plastic is the weak point of the installation and if there's a break that's probably where it will happen. The check valve has a rubber gasket to prevent leaks but care should be taken no to over tighten the metal fitting and strip the plastic threads.
Most outdoor faucets are supplied with a 1/2" pipe which gives you around 5-6gpm (gallons per minute) to work with. You need to add up the gallons per minute your heads will use and try not to exceed the 5-6gpm.
The heads I fed with this timer were Rain Bird 3504 rotors. I used two of the rotors and I installed 1.5gpm nozzles which would add up to 3gpm total usage, well within my ceiling of 5-6gpm.
Haw long the battery will keep running before you have to change it ?
Thanks for the feedback.
Are all of the attachments necessary if I'm just setting up a regular sprinkler?
Thanks man. I’m standing in Home Depot watching your video so I can make a more informative decision. ...the 4 outlet orbit says to ground rod and manifold. Literally made me stop and TH-cam. Lol
How many sprinklers can be hooked up to one of these hoses?
It is working on schedule 6 hour or 12 hour?
Can you please list all the connector I need to buy. I don’t know what to buy, too many connectors.
1. 3/4" hose thread vacuum breaker. www.homedepot.com/p/EZ-FLO-3-4-in-FHT-x-MHT-Brass-Hose-Bibb-with-Anti-Siphon-Vacuum-Breaker-20199/315983625?g_store=&source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_001_PIPE_FITTING-NA-NA-NA-SMART-4070512-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D26P-026_001_PIPE_FITTING-NA-NA-NA-SMART-4070512-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-PL3_Live-71700000094213694-58700007814434200-92700071019453829&gclid=CjwKCAjw2K6lBhBXEiwA5RjtCUWhpZKPLnLOLrkvHy_cP7maJJR5xWVnqHdQWQkDp3lbNQdl0bRe-RoCHLgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
2. 3/4" hose thread pressure reducer. www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-HT07525PSI-Irrigation-Regulator/dp/B0049C5FZA/ref=sr_1_6?hvadid=604515203016&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9029757&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=12135016830556368361&hvtargid=kwd-377093350968&hydadcr=26663_11679514&keywords=hose+thread+pressure+regulator&qid=1689020074&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-6
3. 3/4" hose x 1/2" MIPT brass adapter. www.sprinklerwarehouse.com/aqualine-brass-hose-fitting-3-4-in-x-1-2-in-fht-x-mpt-hpf5?gad=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw2K6lBhBXEiwA5RjtCTwlbB-j1hgY7V9esSpFOulEtDjicymqhXB61djajQXGudQj7Nrf-RoCkfkQAvD_BwE
4. 1/2" x 20" FIPT braided flex line. www.amazon.com/Eastman-48017-Kitchen-Lavatory-Connector/dp/B00068UUTC/ref=asc_df_B00068UUTC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312114626100&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11668387917657262514&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029757&hvtargid=pla-653800829262&psc=1
5. Rain Bird SBA-050 funny pipe adapter. www.amazon.com/Rain-Bird-SWGA050-Coupler-Fitting/dp/B000DCN8MC/ref=asc_df_B000DCN8MC/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385339510556&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6393684640654236219&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029758&hvtargid=pla-848249381019&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=81433420707&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385339510556&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6393684640654236219&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9029758&hvtargid=pla-848249381019
i did this procedure on mine and i lost the presure i had. it couldn't pop. not even 5 pop up sprinklers with the timer so i had to put everything back the way i had it . i have a shutoff valve and I was running 10 pop up sprinklers & i had good presure. any help i ll appreciate it
Hmm. The timer may be restricting the flow to the sprinkler heads. Usually faucet timers like this are fed with a 1/2" supply which would only give you 5-6 gpm to work with.
I'm getting water in the unit after 2 months of useing it and have to take back to store for an exchange, everyone of them are doing this. how can I stop it from happening?
Remember water needs to pass through the timer for it to work. The timer controls "when" the water passes through. Is the timer leaking?
this won't drive up the water bill since the water is always running at the faucet? I'm new to this. I thought about getting one myself
Yes. Water to timer is always on but isn't used until the timer turns on.
detroitone flow of water isn't until timer clicls.. also your watering 5+ plants all at the same time as it would for one, gonna save a lot
I did this as follow and my faucet does not stop running eventhough it's set up on auto
I want the same set of connector , where can I find them online
Grainger, Amazon, Lowes, & Home Depot.
Thanks for the quick response appreciate it and the video.
What is the fitting between the timer and the tap itself?
Vacuum breaker.
@@Iscaper I installed a vacuum breaker between the tap and timer and one between the timer and hose and the pressure is significantly reduced to the point of the sprinklers being useless. There are no leaks or anything, but the pressure is very low. How can I fix this?
@@symbolize Try removing the one between the timer and hose. Remember you only have 5-6 gpm (gallons per minute) using a tap supplied by 1/2" pipe. Make sure your sprinklers don't exceed that limit.
@@Iscaper Thank you that helped!
Thanks!!!
Thanks R0tten.
Necesito darle fuerza ha este timer ya que el agua viene de un tanque y no tiene la suficiente precion para que pase el agua
Man, that setup could of been done for half the cost... there is no need for that to have the check valve or any of that fancy connecting fittings. the only reason for needing a check valve is if the main line is going to have standing water... the valve prevents water from going back into the house... If someone paid you to install this they should have had someone come in and just run another valve to that area... Also you don't need a pressure reducer for a rotating head (unless over 70 PSI BUT if coming from the house it should only be 50 PSI or less).... only drip irrigation needs reducers and 30 is too much, it should have been 15 or 20... (10 years irrigation experience)
We discussed the sprinkler valve option but it would have cost hundreds of dollars to go that route, and there was no good option for getting the timer wire from the back of the house to the garage where the timer was. It was much simpler and cheaper to do this option. I installed a pressure reducer because the owners wanted the option to add drip lines to this circuit in the future.
iScaper1 i get that but rotaters should never be on the same line as drip... stingy homeowners always did drive me crazy... hated doing halfassed jobs
Kitsapbeek
I agree. But sometimes it's not about the correct way of doing a project, it's more about the homeowner saving money.
iScaper1
I noticed that you connected the check valve, which is metal, to the plastic threaded pressure reducer and the Orbit timer, but won't that present the risk of the metal thread eating into the plastic thread? I understand about the cheap homeowner from your comment but this question is more for my personal knowledge more than anything else. And thank you for the video.
Bubba Johnson
You're right that the connection where metal meets plastic is the weak point of the installation and if there's a break that's probably where it will happen. The check valve has a rubber gasket to prevent leaks but care should be taken no to over tighten the metal fitting and strip the plastic threads.
Why the FUCK does this guy sound like Joe pera?