Now that we know that the Exo-Hide does not stick to the red putty work, you may want to test how well the flat black spray paint adheres to the putty. If it sticks, you can re=spray those spots like a primer, then use the Exo-Hide to retouch those areas. Regardless, these learning experiences are invaluable and just a normal part of the hobby. Good on ya' for admitting it and carrying on like a DIY soldier. Cheers!
In the late 90’s, I designed a 4th order for a Fosgate Series 1 10” subwoofer. It had a similar impedance peak as this one, but the lower tuning frequency peak was a little lower and the resonant frequency peak was a little higher(higher impedance, not higher frequency). The setup was hooked up to a HiFonics Vulcan (180 watts bridged) running 4 ohms bridged. It ended up being a one note wonder, but holy cow was it LOUD!! The 808 bass note in some old Korn songs was right at the peak. Several people swore I had a pair of 15s in the trunk, and were shocked when they saw this little box that only had 2 ports showing. Ever since then, I have enjoyed playing with smaller subs. My last project was eight 6 1/2” woofers in infinite baffle all running on a JP8! I love small subs, and even though the box is not perfect, I love this dive into the small Savard Raps!!!
I think it looks good, I wouldn't worry about what others say or think. As long as it makes you happy and the functionality is there then the rest don't matter.
My entry level setup is 2 Skar VXF 12s, Skar prefab enclosure, Orion HCCA 3000.1Dsplx, audio control Epicenter. Been running 4 years now, flickering the clip light, wired @ 1 ohm, and all components have been pushed hard daily. (DC Power 325 HO & all power/ground is 3 runs of SkyHigh OFC 4/0 XL wire
Nice to see the completion of the project. Sorry to hear that you are not over the moon with it. FWIW, it may be an old construct but, even with the stiff suspension, over-motored drivers we have these days, I really avoid tuning below Fs. It just causes too many issues. Also, if you want a vinyl facia like that, consider making the front baffle a separate insert that you can wrap fully and then attach to the main baffle. Super 90 is going to have a hard time keeping that vinyl on with summer heat. Just some observations from an install dinosaur
I would be interested to see the Impedance plot if you were to run each pair of drivers in Parallel as well as for each VC, to get 1/2 Ohm pairs, then wire the leads from each 1/2 Ohm Pair in Series to get back to that 1 Ohm Final Impedance. Just a thought.
I have seen where wiring multiple woofers differently makes a HUGE difference in final impedance and also where it does nothing at all, so worth a try just to see what happens
Yes wiring the coils in a different configuration can and will affect the final impedance but the peaks and valleys will stay proportionate since they're affected by the air load of the port not the inductance of the coils
been enjoying ALL your vids these past 2yrs since i got bit by the audio bug again...and glad you can show us your mistakes too. what's the saying that "knowledge is what you learn from your own mistakes, wisdom is what you learn from others"
I've done a lot of pro-audio speakers with Duratex...and I always do a coat or two of flat-black latex paint first. The latex acts as a primer and mostly fills the brad nail holes, so I end up using much less Duratex for the final coats. Another application method is to spray the Duratex with a cheap 'texture' spray gun like what's used to spray popcorn ceilings in houses (like $30 from Harbor Freight). Run low air pressure so the gun just 'spits' the Duratex out -- I much prefer the result over using the textured rollers!
Great video! And when you do vinyl, you should always wrap it completely to the board. That means wrapping it around and under the panel then fasten the panel to the box.
Palm routers are great until it skips. I always felt a router table would be better but I don't have room. All I use is a palm router except for a standard router with a permanently attached circle jig.
Great videos. For your Exohyde, 'prime' your box with Rustoleum latex paint in black semi-gloss. I get quart cans from the local big box store. A coat of that as primer helps seal the wood and prime the filler. Then Duratex (or Exohyde) will stick better, and use less. I've gotten way with one coat on some, Although two is more durable.
This is why i love learning by just doing. All the videos about how to make a box and yet you still make mistakes. We dont have to know everything to have fun with this hobby
Thanks for sharing the highs and lows (pun intended) of building this setup! Would you say the good low frequency response is a result of the amount of speakers? Or the box design? I was considering getting some 6.5 subs, but only have room for 2. I dont want to lose out on the lower notes.
1:35 Ah, Yes! There actually is something more satisfying than pull off masking tape 🤣Wiring all those subs in parallel would be much more satisfying , but that's just me
I wonder if you would have better luck using a water based wood filler instead of bondo putty? The wood filler does contain actual wood fibers and dries hard and is sandable, and that may help the duratex bond to it.
Love your channel, hoping you can address a couple of questions for me with a plan I have to upgrade an existing system: 1. If I fill air space on a prefab vented box by 0.10ft³ would that significantly affect the port tuning? 2. If I'm using an amp that doesn't have a subsonic filter could I safely use a vented box assuming my gains are set correctly and I'm under powering my subs by about 50w RMS and the air space is within recommended range by the manufacturer?
Is it possible that you have a double dip with drivers not being the same distance from the port ? I know in hornresp, there's line legth calculator on the effects of moving the drivers position in the chamber.
the tolerances for this box design have to be spot on to work right. it's effectively 2 ported enclosures, with the ports merged together. you can't avoid at least some cancellation. finite driver variations will wreak havok on the tuning, and you have 4! can you really expect them all to move precisely alike? impressive display of woodworking and driver consistency if it works correctly. i don't think i would try it, tho. if you had to replace one driver, you might have to replace them all, or break-in the new one til it acts like the old ones (but will it ever?). i think it's a damn cool looking thing tho. i got nothing against the small driver's, i have a pair of 6W0's and they're little wonders.
Forget that EXO hide product. Use rustoleum wood restore. It sticks to anything no prep needed if you took a epoxy mixed it with crazy glue you would get rustoleum wood restore system
Hi sir, I am from India. I have been watching your video since 1 year and I like your work can I use down four sound jp8 v1.5 for my home and what current it requires for home purchase
That’s a sick ass enclosure. You’re like the Walter White of car audio! I just did that review on the 2 hi-q 6.5’s but the one thing I would say and I’d say it about all 6.5’s is even though they sounded great they are still limited by size and I would have loved to had 2 more! lol either way though super sick video and sick box. I got a pretty nice box build coming too but I didn’t design it unfortunately :( I did however design the logo 😂 🤷🏽♂️
Stupid question: Wouldn't it be appropriate to consider the specific car's acoustics into the calculations of the subwoofer cabinets? Cars have resonance frequencies and an impressive room gain. Shouldn't this be measured and considered?
Honestly i like the box, it may just be me but im not the greatest at box building so it actually looks pretty decent. I just built my 4th order design from bassaholics. It turned out ok but im definitely curious of its response in something like winsd
Does anyone know of a dual voice coil 8 inch woofer, not sub-woofer, 2 ohm or 4 ohm? I've been looking for months and have not found anything but sub-woofers which I tried but didn't get the frequency range I'm after which is just above the sub-woofer range and below the range of 6.5 inch woofer/mid-ranges. The amp will go up to about 75 watts at 2 ohms and about 50 watts at 4 ohms. If anyone knows of such a speaker please feel free to comment. Thanks.
make the box big enough and even a 5 inch midrange speaker can play about 35 hz... so a single 6.5 inch subwoofer is more than capable of hitting as low as 30hz, and here you have 4 subwoofers which can easily be hitting 25hz.... or even 20hz if the box is big enough... like scan speak, sb acoustics, peerless woofers or subwoofers, the main problem is the FS.... and car subwoofers all are stiff and have higher resonance frequency... so try some home audio speakers and you will see that they can hit the deep notes better than car subwoofers... because they have a lower FS , like 35 hz, where as a car subwoofer 6.5 might have 40 to 50hz fs... the tang band 6.5 subwoofers can play low ... but has weak upper bass...
Nothing here is wrong with the box and tuning and such.. when you take subs like this and put them in a box like this.. a bass reprocesser is a must! What you’re experiencing with the deep lows that don’t punch and the higher notes that punch but don’t dig is a product of putting high fs smaller subs into a large low tune box.. You need a reprocessor to take those 70-80 notes and turn them into to 35-40 notes.. Also when you do this is better to fine a little lower.. 30-33ish cause it will play better with the reproduction notes for an overall more natural sound. You’ll need to go super wide with the range and then tune the impact of that range to your liking based on music you listen to the most.. Generally when I design and build a box like this with subs like this I also like to go a bit larger on the volume.. around 25% and then a bit smaller on the port.. idk what you ended up with on this.. but instead of the normal 16sq per cube on the port a lot of times with the larger volume and already low tune since these don’t have extreme mechanicals with say a 25mm one way xmax.. you can drop the port area down to 12-13 range and the added pressure in the box will help with the responsiveness of soft drivers like these are.. Last note.. as a general woodworking basic.. always coat your product with some killz or bullseye primer first.. one of seals the wood really well.. cause it’s thick it hides a lot of imperfections, it also makes for less issues when you paint or coat it with whatever.. pretty much everything sticks to it and it sticks to everything.. from woodwork to painting drywall to pretty much any and everything.. I either mix it into my paint or I apply it first as a primer.. Talk to any professional painters and most will tell you they mix some version of killz or similar primer into almost all exterior paints cause it eliminates having to know if the existing is oil or water based etc..
You only need a bass processor if there's something wrong with the signal, or the music does not have the low frequencies. All of the problems with this box can be fixed with a little bit of EQ to take out the boomy upper frequencies. It had no trouble hitting the low frequencies in that 20--50 HZ range.
Why do people call the enclosure the speaker? It’s a cabinet. The speaker is the thing that, even all by itself, it will still make sound. The enclosure, when all by itself, is just a cabinet. I think most people that use the ‘I make speakers’ type of phrases, think it makes them sound smarter. What we do is make speaker systems. People with a lot more schooling, and way cooler tools and materials, make the speakers.
You nailed the application of the vinyl. I didn't know it could stretch that much. Do you really need to redo the whole box, though? I agree a more contrasty color on the main enclosure would pop more, but couldn't ya just scrape the bed liner stuff off, sand the glazing putty off, and then repaint? Either way, thanks for showing off your project (tiny) warts and all. You laid it out nicely, and I LOVE that baffle!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 I might be able to scrape it clean but I would rather just rebuild it. It'll give me a chance to experiment with a few more things.
Man i can't tell you how much i appreciate you showing us the new things you try so we can learn with you. Always a joy watching you.
I appreciate that!
Explaining the mistakes is very valuable.
Now that we know that the Exo-Hide does not stick to the red putty work, you may want to test how well the flat black spray paint adheres to the putty. If it sticks, you can re=spray those spots like a primer, then use the Exo-Hide to retouch those areas. Regardless, these learning experiences are invaluable and just a normal part of the hobby. Good on ya' for admitting it and carrying on like a DIY soldier. Cheers!
Good idea!
100% agreee!!!
I love how you share your "learning points" with builds.
A smart person learns from others!
In the late 90’s, I designed a 4th order for a Fosgate Series 1 10” subwoofer. It had a similar impedance peak as this one, but the lower tuning frequency peak was a little lower and the resonant frequency peak was a little higher(higher impedance, not higher frequency). The setup was hooked up to a HiFonics Vulcan (180 watts bridged) running 4 ohms bridged.
It ended up being a one note wonder, but holy cow was it LOUD!! The 808 bass note in some old Korn songs was right at the peak. Several people swore I had a pair of 15s in the trunk, and were shocked when they saw this little box that only had 2 ports showing.
Ever since then, I have enjoyed playing with smaller subs. My last project was eight 6 1/2” woofers in infinite baffle all running on a JP8! I love small subs, and even though the box is not perfect, I love this dive into the small Savard Raps!!!
I was happy with the sound and the performance.
best wood putty is made with Elmer's wood glue and the mdf saw dust mixed together. been doing it since the 90s.
That works for sure.
Yep
Damn right
I like the RAP series subs. I usually solder everything EXCEPT connection to drivers, where crimp terminals are used.
Agreed
Deep bass from FOUR small subwoofers! There ya go, corrected that for ya haha. Excellent box, great craftsmanship all the way around as usual.
Thanks
So glad you shared this despite its shortcomings. I’m in my first pickup now and debating between multiple smalls or a single 10. This helps.
I think it looks good, I wouldn't worry about what others say or think. As long as it makes you happy and the functionality is there then the rest don't matter.
It seems that some woofers are out of phase. Check if the wiring is right.
Zennzer spray primer before the finish coat should do the trick
They make good stuff.
My entry level setup is 2 Skar VXF 12s, Skar prefab enclosure, Orion HCCA 3000.1Dsplx, audio control Epicenter. Been running 4 years now, flickering the clip light, wired @ 1 ohm, and all components have been pushed hard daily.
(DC Power 325 HO & all power/ground is 3 runs of SkyHigh OFC 4/0 XL wire
Nice.
Nice to see the completion of the project. Sorry to hear that you are not over the moon with it.
FWIW, it may be an old construct but, even with the stiff suspension, over-motored drivers we have these days, I really avoid tuning below Fs. It just causes too many issues. Also, if you want a vinyl facia like that, consider making the front baffle a separate insert that you can wrap fully and then attach to the main baffle. Super 90 is going to have a hard time keeping that vinyl on with summer heat. Just some observations from an install dinosaur
I've been rethinking the way I approach vinyl. I need to try something different.
I think it's time to rethink the way I have been applying vinyl.
Vinyl is a beast either looks good or aweful.
I would be interested to see the Impedance plot if you were to run each pair of drivers in Parallel as well as for each VC, to get 1/2 Ohm pairs, then wire the leads from each 1/2 Ohm Pair in Series to get back to that 1 Ohm Final Impedance. Just a thought.
I have seen where wiring multiple woofers differently makes a HUGE difference in final impedance and also where it does nothing at all, so worth a try just to see what happens
Yes wiring the coils in a different configuration can and will affect the final impedance but the peaks and valleys will stay proportionate since they're affected by the air load of the port not the inductance of the coils
Great video. This is a great demonstration of some disadvantages of many small drivers vs fewer large drivers.
Small drivers have their place.
@@DIYAudioGuy Maybe this is a good video topic? I love what you do!
been enjoying ALL your vids these past 2yrs since i got bit by the audio bug again...and glad you can show us your mistakes too. what's the saying that "knowledge is what you learn from your own mistakes, wisdom is what you learn from others"
In that case I need more wisdom and less knowledge.
I've done a lot of pro-audio speakers with Duratex...and I always do a coat or two of flat-black latex paint first. The latex acts as a primer and mostly fills the brad nail holes, so I end up using much less Duratex for the final coats. Another application method is to spray the Duratex with a cheap 'texture' spray gun like what's used to spray popcorn ceilings in houses (like $30 from Harbor Freight). Run low air pressure so the gun just 'spits' the Duratex out -- I much prefer the result over using the textured rollers!
I might have to give that sprayer idea a try.
Great video! And when you do vinyl, you should always wrap it completely to the board. That means wrapping it around and under the panel then fasten the panel to the box.
👍
Palm routers are great until it skips. I always felt a router table would be better but I don't have room. All I use is a palm router except for a standard router with a permanently attached circle jig.
This box ended up weight an metric f ton, dragging it over to the router table was a pain. Would have been easer to grab my other router.
Great videos. For your Exohyde, 'prime' your box with Rustoleum latex paint in black semi-gloss. I get quart cans from the local big box store. A coat of that as primer helps seal the wood and prime the filler. Then Duratex (or Exohyde) will stick better, and use less. I've gotten way with one coat on some, Although two is more durable.
Right, will do that next time.
I'm no better with the vinyl skills. A flush trim bit and carpet are my friends. Great video.
I get a little better every time I do it.
shorten the port to raise the tuning freq
Then you lose the low end extension.
They can't all be winners....that's what I tell myself every time I build an enclosure.
True
you will get a much nicer finish if you use a sealant on the MDF first before painting. the MDF has a tendance of wicking up the paint.
th-cam.com/video/mMywZvdbx7Y/w-d-xo.htmlsi=qLXHPiY0QDzXuk6l
This is why i love learning by just doing. All the videos about how to make a box and yet you still make mistakes. We dont have to know everything to have fun with this hobby
I wonder if weed eater string would work for the 'piping'?
Just grey carpet over it and be done good as new
You are probably right.
i like to use cable lugs i think thats what its called but thats for the most part for testing the subs
I wonder if you hit it with a primer first if it would stick better
It should, but it's also something I should probably test before I say for sure.
Very informative. Love it.
Thanks for sharing the highs and lows (pun intended) of building this setup! Would you say the good low frequency response is a result of the amount of speakers? Or the box design? I was considering getting some 6.5 subs, but only have room for 2. I dont want to lose out on the lower notes.
It is the combination of low tuning, multiple drivers and power.
Wondering if you can do a sealed enclosure compared to a ported enclosure with the same speaker and see what kind of differences there are.
That's something I've been meaning to do.
1:35 Ah, Yes! There actually is something more satisfying than pull off masking tape 🤣Wiring all those subs in parallel would be much more satisfying , but that's just me
😂
I wonder if you would have better luck using a water based wood filler instead of bondo putty? The wood filler does contain actual wood fibers and dries hard and is sandable, and that may help the duratex bond to it.
For this purpose, yes.
Are you sure all drivers are wired in phase together? It looked like two drivers on one side were moving out of phase with each other.
th-cam.com/video/dNVtMmLlnoE/w-d-xo.htmlsi=cpOcMFtiwDAAuCXC
Love your channel, hoping you can address a couple of questions for me with a plan I have to upgrade an existing system:
1. If I fill air space on a prefab vented box by 0.10ft³ would that significantly affect the port tuning?
2. If I'm using an amp that doesn't have a subsonic filter could I safely use a vented box assuming my gains are set correctly and I'm under powering my subs by about 50w RMS and the air space is within recommended range by the manufacturer?
Does the software for speaker design tell you the measurements of the wood cuts needed?
WinISD does not.
@@DIYAudioGuy do you know any that does?
Damn I can't unsee this now...your hexagon background looks like 2 people getting it on doggie style.😂
Dang, no I can't unsee it!
Is it possible that you have a double dip with drivers not being the same distance from the port ?
I know in hornresp, there's line legth calculator on the effects of moving the drivers position in the chamber.
I’m running 4 DC 6.5’s and they smash 30 hz. Sounds like 12’s.
What kind of box would you build for that extreme kick ? Like in heavy metal double bass drum
D.I. try guy... I have had a few similar experiences. Eventually pull off the look 👍😎 Great Work still
It's all a part of the learning experience.
What would happen if you were to tune the port to the subs FS?
Those two peaks in the impedance plot should be the exact same height.
the tolerances for this box design have to be spot on to work right. it's effectively 2 ported enclosures, with the ports merged together. you can't avoid at least some cancellation. finite driver variations will wreak havok on the tuning, and you have 4! can you really expect them all to move precisely alike? impressive display of woodworking and driver consistency if it works correctly. i don't think i would try it, tho. if you had to replace one driver, you might have to replace them all, or break-in the new one til it acts like the old ones (but will it ever?). i think it's a damn cool looking thing tho. i got nothing against the small driver's, i have a pair of 6W0's and they're little wonders.
I was very happy with the sound.
Forget that EXO hide product. Use rustoleum wood restore. It sticks to anything no prep needed if you took a epoxy mixed it with crazy glue you would get rustoleum wood restore system
Hi sir, I am from India. I have been watching your video since 1 year and I like your work can I use down four sound jp8 v1.5 for my home and what current it requires for home purchase
You will need a big power supply, something like this: amzn.to/3wkSEQl and that one does not quite provide enough amperage for the JP8
would a primer have helped with the coating adhesion?
Probably, but I now that I ask I relize that I need to test that before I can give an honest answer.
That’s a sick ass enclosure. You’re like the Walter White of car audio! I just did that review on the 2 hi-q 6.5’s but the one thing I would say and I’d say it about all 6.5’s is even though they sounded great they are still limited by size and I would have loved to had 2 more! lol either way though super sick video and sick box. I got a pretty nice box build coming too but I didn’t design it unfortunately :( I did however design the logo 😂 🤷🏽♂️
I think that's the exact correct conclusion about the small subwoofers.
The outside pair appear to be out of phase with the inner pair based on certain parts of this video.
th-cam.com/video/dNVtMmLlnoE/w-d-xo.html
@@DIYAudioGuy Got it.
Stupid question: Wouldn't it be appropriate to consider the specific car's acoustics into the calculations of the subwoofer cabinets? Cars have resonance frequencies and an impressive room gain. Shouldn't this be measured and considered?
I bought a subwoofer box for passive sub 6 inch setting 4 ohms but the sound produced is weak even though my amplifier is 300 watts
You're not going to get much out of a single 6-in subwoofer.
Honestly i like the box, it may just be me but im not the greatest at box building so it actually looks pretty decent. I just built my 4th order design from bassaholics. It turned out ok but im definitely curious of its response in something like winsd
It is not really that bad, but it was not what I was shooting for, so I am disappointed.
Great build. Just a nit pick can you lower the background music when speaking. I think that will make this video pleasant on the ears
There was music... Damn, I must have been too involved to have noticed.
My editing software does this automatically. Trying to get it just right is a little tricky.
8:00
Try breaking them in for a couple of days at mid volume, and do measurements again!
I did.
Did it improve?@@DIYAudioGuy
Smooth? Use filler primer.. also filler primer first then paint. MDF OSB soaks up paint and makes you use multiple cans
Awesome!
Thanks!
You would have better luck using a window screen roller tool to install the blue “wire” on the face.
mix them with 15 inch woofers
Does anyone know of a dual voice coil 8 inch woofer, not sub-woofer, 2 ohm or 4 ohm? I've been looking for months and have not found anything but sub-woofers which I tried but didn't get the frequency range I'm after which is just above the sub-woofer range and below the range of 6.5 inch woofer/mid-ranges. The amp will go up to about 75 watts at 2 ohms and about 50 watts at 4 ohms. If anyone knows of such a speaker please feel free to comment. Thanks.
I thank cdt audio has one
I can't think of anything off of the top of my head.
@@stormyyoung6344 Thanks Stormy. Yes they do, and it's on sale. I think I'll try it.
@@billcrane2444 I run cdt had good luck with them
Maybe ds18
Pretty rare I'll even use a subwoofer that does have an FS of 30 or lower. Personal preference.
"im gonna rebuild that box" bro thats why you build a 30$ box with pipe ports so you can find out that port you want...
The port is fine. It's just ugly.
make the box big enough and even a 5 inch midrange speaker can play about 35 hz... so a single 6.5 inch subwoofer is more than capable of hitting as low as 30hz, and here you have 4 subwoofers which can easily be hitting 25hz.... or even 20hz if the box is big enough... like scan speak, sb acoustics, peerless woofers or subwoofers, the main problem is the FS.... and car subwoofers all are stiff and have higher resonance frequency... so try some home audio speakers and you will see that they can hit the deep notes better than car subwoofers... because they have a lower FS , like 35 hz, where as a car subwoofer 6.5 might have 40 to 50hz fs... the tang band 6.5 subwoofers can play low ... but has weak upper bass...
Nothing here is wrong with the box and tuning and such.. when you take subs like this and put them in a box like this.. a bass reprocesser is a must! What you’re experiencing with the deep lows that don’t punch and the higher notes that punch but don’t dig is a product of putting high fs smaller subs into a large low tune box..
You need a reprocessor to take those 70-80 notes and turn them into to 35-40 notes..
Also when you do this is better to fine a little lower.. 30-33ish cause it will play better with the reproduction notes for an overall more natural sound.
You’ll need to go super wide with the range and then tune the impact of that range to your liking based on music you listen to the most..
Generally when I design and build a box like this with subs like this I also like to go a bit larger on the volume.. around 25% and then a bit smaller on the port.. idk what you ended up with on this.. but instead of the normal 16sq per cube on the port a lot of times with the larger volume and already low tune since these don’t have extreme mechanicals with say a 25mm one way xmax.. you can drop the port area down to 12-13 range and the added pressure in the box will help with the responsiveness of soft drivers like these are..
Last note.. as a general woodworking basic.. always coat your product with some killz or bullseye primer first.. one of seals the wood really well.. cause it’s thick it hides a lot of imperfections, it also makes for less issues when you paint or coat it with whatever.. pretty much everything sticks to it and it sticks to everything.. from woodwork to painting drywall to pretty much any and everything.. I either mix it into my paint or I apply it first as a primer..
Talk to any professional painters and most will tell you they mix some version of killz or similar primer into almost all exterior paints cause it eliminates having to know if the existing is oil or water based etc..
You only need a bass processor if there's something wrong with the signal, or the music does not have the low frequencies. All of the problems with this box can be fixed with a little bit of EQ to take out the boomy upper frequencies. It had no trouble hitting the low frequencies in that 20--50 HZ range.
Why do people call the enclosure the speaker? It’s a cabinet. The speaker is the thing that, even all by itself, it will still make sound. The enclosure, when all by itself, is just a cabinet.
I think most people that use the ‘I make speakers’ type of phrases, think it makes them sound smarter. What we do is make speaker systems. People with a lot more schooling, and way cooler tools and materials, make the speakers.
Some people get bent out of shape when I say box instead of enclosure.
Carpet on boxes lol I didn't realize this was the 1990s 🤣
I like carpet, but I am a product of the 90's
me too brother , your box still turned out nice I'm just a fan of using real hard wood for the front baffles @@DIYAudioGuy
An ugly stick lol Nice work none the less!
Indeed.
that spay adhesive is dangerous stuff, do it outside.
I usually open the garage door+ windows and some big fans.
That 4l tin is mostly toluene, way more potent. You can pour more in that can to rejuivinate it
Yea I'd need about 16 of those 6.5's 😂
Get the subs here: lddy.no/1jqms 7% off of Savard with the code DIYAUDIO
Oh man, that poor thing is ugly. But its an honest ugly. Like it truly belongs in the back of a ZX2 Escort. Great video as always.
One of the ugliest things I have ever made.
I like the subwoofer layout on the baffle. But it's a little rough.
You nailed the application of the vinyl. I didn't know it could stretch that much. Do you really need to redo the whole box, though? I agree a more contrasty color on the main enclosure would pop more, but couldn't ya just scrape the bed liner stuff off, sand the glazing putty off, and then repaint?
Either way, thanks for showing off your project (tiny) warts and all. You laid it out nicely, and I LOVE that baffle!
@@zarboaudioprojects1430 I might be able to scrape it clean but I would rather just rebuild it. It'll give me a chance to experiment with a few more things.