I have the exact same problem, rear off side fine, pad wasn't to bad, screws piston in fine, rear near side pad was gone, can't screw piston in at all.
I have the same issue with 2017 and it was not even all the way open like yours I don’t know what to do and I still have a little bit of pot live doesn’t want to go back at all are you and install it in a white bass and try to compress it and did not work
Get the right tool from the auto part store . I just did mine no issues whatsoever, it had to be screwed back in while applying pressure, it has and arrow indicating the direction it has to be screwed back in .
The pistons have poped out so they are not sitting square in the caliper, they are right off the thread which winds them back in; it's possible to take these right out and put them in but they have to slide squarely back in to the point where the thread will engage and wind in as normal, I'm doing a set of mk7 calipers at the moment, very easy to get them at such a slight angle you cant see it but they wont go in
You've probably sussed this by now so this comment is for people arriving here for the same problem. Ok. I'm in the UK and my daughter has asked me to sort out the brake wear light issue as she's selling her 2016 Ford Transit Custom. So. To cut to the chase.... Ford must have a left hand threaded windback tool. I suffered the same "wont wind back" issue you were having and in desperation I got hold of the edge of the piston with Mole grips (Vice grips to you ) and turned. I was amazed to see the piston come out even further until it was loose so I tried it in reverse (loosened the bleed nipple first) and the damned thing wound right back in ! I spent about 3 frikkin hours trying to suss that out. Never have I ever experienced that when doing the brakes. Just for clarity, I'm 63 years old and have lived in Australia and the UK and never had this issue !
If its electronic then you need to unhook the clip and put power to it and let it turn back in. Then you can take the caliper tool and do it the rest of the way. If you skip the first step then it will be impossible to turn in. FYI
It needs to be recoiled from the manufacturer.....no tools you have is gonna retract the piston...I've used power tools and it didn't budge but the retraction tool did and got bent.
I’m assuming you know you need the special tool to wind in the piston. If it came out too far, just tap it lightly all around the piston while counter clock winding it in.
You need a wind back tool. They only compress while being turned and pressed at the same time. Passenger side is counter-clockwise and driver side is clockwise. The arrow is where you line up the holes in the caliper so the little nipple on the brake pad sits in the hole the right direction.
Not for these brakes after they go out a certain length. I went and got the tool from autozone. Would not budge. These have to be factory pressed if they come out to a certain point.
@@peterl6095 thanks for this movie and comments. I had the same issue yesterday, I have the right tool as well, no possible to press the caliper back. its come back to the 4cm gap and for new break pads I need 5cm. Did you maybe sorted this problem? Regards.
Same issue right now.... Pissed. I wont give up
It's not supposed to be compressed by pushing force. It should turn clock wise to be able to compress
If you turned it clockwise you may have jammed it they turn counter clock wise on the passenger side
I completely understand you I'm having the same problem with my 2016 Ford transit 250
Those calipers had to be threaded in they cannot just be compressed like front calipers
Theres no threads on it
You won't be able to do it with any tools. The factory has to do it if the pistons come out after a certain degree.
I have the exact same problem, rear off side fine, pad wasn't to bad, screws piston in fine, rear near side pad was gone, can't screw piston in at all.
I have the same issue with Skoda Octavia3
You need a left handed compression tool. There's some on Amazon for about 25 bucks
No. Not for these brakes. If they come out a certain length, they have to be factory pressed. You can't compress them at all.
I have the same issue with 2017 and it was not even all the way open like yours I don’t know what to do and I still have a little bit of pot live doesn’t want to go back at all are you and install it in a white bass and try to compress it and did not work
Yeah, that's a bad situation man. I think the only people who can compresses it at that point is the factory. That's what the Autozone guy told me.
The autozone guy said that if the piston went out too far, they need to send it back to get it compressed. I think they use a special tool for that.
They gave me an exchange though, so it wasn't too bad...I did spend hours and hours on this which was a waste....
Get to the point Jesus
🤣🤣🤣
Get the right tool from the auto part store . I just did mine no issues whatsoever, it had to be screwed back in while applying pressure, it has and arrow indicating the direction it has to be screwed back in .
I did get the right tool. These brakes will not compress after they come out a certain degree. Only the factory can compress them.
It screws in
Rear's have to be screwed in
I know. I got the set from autozone. They won't compress after they come out a certain length. You have to return them to the factory to do it.
The pistons have poped out so they are not sitting square in the caliper, they are right off the thread which winds them back in; it's possible to take these right out and put them in but they have to slide squarely back in to the point where the thread will engage and wind in as normal, I'm doing a set of mk7 calipers at the moment, very easy to get them at such a slight angle you cant see it but they wont go in
You've probably sussed this by now so this comment is for people arriving here for the same problem.
Ok. I'm in the UK and my daughter has asked me to sort out the brake wear light issue as she's selling her 2016 Ford Transit Custom.
So. To cut to the chase....
Ford must have a left hand threaded windback tool.
I suffered the same "wont wind back" issue you were having and in desperation I got hold of the edge of the piston with Mole grips (Vice grips to you ) and turned.
I was amazed to see the piston come out even further until it was loose so I tried it in reverse (loosened the bleed nipple first) and the damned thing wound right back in !
I spent about 3 frikkin hours trying to suss that out.
Never have I ever experienced that when doing the brakes.
Just for clarity, I'm 63 years old and have lived in Australia and the UK and never had this issue !
If its electronic then you need to unhook the clip and put power to it and let it turn back in.
Then you can take the caliper tool and do it the rest of the way.
If you skip the first step then it will be impossible to turn in. FYI
It’s not …aaa it’s not aaaa it’s not aaaa it’s not …aaa you know..aaaa
I just had same issue. Has to wound like people are saying. Left and right tools. So people have to take it to Ford.
It needs to be recoiled from the manufacturer.....no tools you have is gonna retract the piston...I've used power tools and it didn't budge but the retraction tool did and got bent.
The new caliber should have been already compressed
I’m assuming you know you need the special tool to wind in the piston. If it came out too far, just tap it lightly all around the piston while counter clock winding it in.
Tried that....once it comes out too far, they have to be factory reset.
You need a wind back tool. They only compress while being turned and pressed at the same time. Passenger side is counter-clockwise and driver side is clockwise. The arrow is where you line up the holes in the caliper so the little nipple on the brake pad sits in the hole the right direction.
Not for these brakes after they go out a certain length. I went and got the tool from autozone. Would not budge. These have to be factory pressed if they come out to a certain point.
@@peterl6095 Dan Rich is right.
It is no need to be compres by the factory.
All you need is the right tool.
@simplyred1737
That's not true. Even had the counter person from Autozone tell me the piston had come out too far, and the factory had to compress it.
@simplyred1737
You guys won't understand that it would budge regardless if you use an impact wrench on it.
@@peterl6095 thanks for this movie and comments. I had the same issue yesterday, I have the right tool as well, no possible to press the caliper back. its come back to the 4cm gap and for new break pads I need 5cm. Did you maybe sorted this problem? Regards.
Same exact problem in my 2015