I have an Ikon Nettar 515 and did basically the same. I don't have an accessory rangefinder, but I cut a piece of ground glass for the film plane. -- by the way, wouldn't you wrap the parchment OVER the steel rollers, instead of under?? Anyway, I tested the lens at all marked focus distances to find the actual for focus distance for each marking - then wrote it all down on a card that I can carry with the camera. I also have a bunch of close-up accessory lenses and tested each of those at each marked focus distance - adding the info to my card. Now, if I want to get a close-up shot, I select my accessory lens and set the camera-subject distance (from the card) with a scale, and voila! I'm glad you posted this lesson - I'm sure it will be helpful to many!
Iain also asked the same. The paper was more taught under the rollers and more flat against the big 6x6 hole. I reckoned when film is loaded and hatch closed it pushes tight against the big 6x6 hole. Others mentioned ground glass and I did wonder, But I don't have any a way ha ha so that was out the window. Thanks for the comment Kurt and well observed.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Agreed! We're on the "same page" regarding the parchment paper. I had considered using paper, but never tried it. I guess I should have - your setup worked fine. Over/Under, like you said - it was on the image plane. My camera doesn't have a red window in the middle of the back. I had to use a dark cloth and loupe. I'm glad you did this video!
Another material that is good if you don't have access to ground glass or parchment paper is the frosted plastic layer from an LCD panel, I have used those to calibrate the focus of cameras before. Plus me taking everything electronic apart, it is more easily available for me.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss There are a variety of videos on TH-cam on making inexpensive ground glass focusing aids. The couple I watched suggested using glass form picture frames. Another option might be inexpensive window glass from a local home improvement store. That's what I used when I was looking for inexpensive glass to practice cutting glass with before attempting to cut stained glass. Some home improvement stores will even cut the glass for you.
Do not forget that your Rangefinder will drift over time, you will have to calibrate it by focusing it at a distant object like a lamp post in the far middle distance. Great shot of George at the end.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss My Rangefinder is a Photopia, I use it on the Kodak Retinette series of cameras, it has a simple spring inside which looses tension over time.
I picked up a Zeiss Ikon Nettar for £30 off of eBay the other day and purely by chance the same range finder but in ft. This little tutorial is brilliant. The tracing paper was a great idea, never even thought you could do that.
I have the same camera. Interesting the distance is shown in feet on my camera. I came across an interesting article in AP 25 Oct 2003, by Ivor Mantle. He really rates the Novar lens very highly, as good as as a Tessar when stopped down . Interesting that while Novar was a Zeiss Ikon trade mark, the lens manufacturing was sub-contracted to Rodenstock or Steinheil. Enjoying your videos , Ed
I'm shooting on a Zeiss Ikonta 521/16 that is very similar. If you first advance your film and then open the camera and the bellows extend, air gets sucked in and kind of pulls the film a little bit from that metal plate. That's why I sometimes got unsharp pictures. Now, I always open the camera first and then advance the film. That keeps the film nice a tight and my pictures sharp. 😉
Love how the video is really simple and clear with the great lighting! I really enjoyed the thoughtful idea. Love your videos... Short, clear, right to the point!
I use a rangefinder like that with my Rollei 35 for when I want accurate focus up close (especially if I want to shoot at f2.8) and it works a treat. Those rangefinders are quite easy to recalibrate if necessary too.
I went down a different route to find minimum focus on the Nettar. Wide open and on minimum focus, I placed a tape measure from the film plane to the scene and found the sharpest focus point on a scanned negative. Bear in mind the further away the subject is from the camera, the broader the zone of focus even at max f4.5. Stopping down shifts the focal point a bit, too. Realistically the ZI Nettar isn't the ideal tool for spot-on close ups, but it's handy to know where minimum focus is. Sharp half length portraits are easily doable at maximum aperture. For longer distances I use an iPhone measuring app, or just guess. Gave up on shoe mounted rangefinders, they constantly go out of whack.
I have a Nettar 518/16, and a Watameter II accessory rangefinder. I actually found an online manual for both. In reading up on the Watameter, the manual says for close-up work, to measure the distance from the front of the rangefinder to the front element of the lens, which in my case is 3 inches. It says to subtract that distance (.076 meters) from the distance to be set on the lens to account for this. This confuses me, because I would think the distance markings on the Nettar are to the film plane and not front element to the subject. This is maybe a case of a guy who made a pretty decent rangefinder not knowing how most cameras work. I'll have to check it and see. I did get instructions on how to calibrate the Watameter, which was not how I expected, and just as unexpectedly, this old piece of kit was spot on. I've checked it with a tape measure at all relevant distances and it is good. This adds immeasurably to the enjoyment of my Nettar.
I’ve used frosted gift wrapping tape as a “ground glass” on rangefinders to adjust the split screen. I’m a fan of the little pocket laser measuring devices, and made the cheat sheet referred to by another commenter here. Printed the cheat sheets or my Fuji 617 in a format that matches the back of the laser device and taped it on.
I got a Franka Solida III a week ago and I dared to question the focus. I did something similar, but I realized that even a really soft paper or parchment wasn't enough, I needed something more smooth and I hadn't the possibility of cutting a ground glass. What I used? I tried with a piece of plastic bag, and it was an improvement. But then I thought: why not use a tense piece of latex globe? I sticked the extremes over the rollers and it worked as a charm. Then I was able to use a x10 magnification loupe, adjust the lens and ta-da!, perfect focus.
Having put a roll of film through my Nettar I found a lot of out-of-focus pictures. There were two problems. Firstly my Watameter rangefinder (£14, eBay) was faulty. If calibrated at infinity, things 10 feet away didn't measure 10 feet. If I calibrated it for 10 feet, things at infinity measured at 50 feet. A friend gave me another Watameter and it's spot on. Secondly the camera was set incorrectly, Using a piece of opaque plastic film as you did, I discovered that things at infinity were in focus with the lens set to about 30 feet. There are 3 little grub screws around the focus ring, if you slacken them slightly you can turn the focus ring. So using the plastic film and looking through the red window I set the camera to focus on something a long way away, then slackened the screws and turned the ring to just before infinity without changing the focus. I've now checked the focus at various distances from 4 feet and all seems good. Now I need to put another film through it! It will be worth it though, lovely little camera. I found it easiest to check the long range focus at night, a distance light source makes a pin point through the window when it is in focus.
Great cameras when they work. I gave that one away in the end. The focus slipped and I couldn't get it back. I have another one now. £20 bargain on ebay. I mainly use zone focusing if I'm around f11/f16 outside. I've been getting good results too.
On those rangefinders where you turn the focus knob, you will see that there is a small adjuster knob in the centre. You set the rangefinder at a known distance and turn the adjuster accordingly. Do this at a few distances to double check.
How about using one of those laser measuring devices that builders use? I imagine it is super accurate. Not sure whether it would work outdoors, though.
I've never counted. On the back of the camera there is a window to see the frame numbers on the backing paper of the film. So you turn "advance" to the next frame which are numbered 1, 2, 3 etc
Went through a few rolls in my Zeiss and then discovered that my external rangefinder was completely uncalibrated! Would say 40 feet when I focused on things at infinity
Shouldn't your parchment paper go over your rollers in the camera, just like you load a film? It will change your focal plane slightly and could affect focus. Another method to test your lens is to use an SLR that you know is focusing properly. Put a mark on your parchment paper (like an X, on the inside surface) and set your Nettar's aperture to full and lens to infinity. Set the shutter on B and lock it open. Now, with an SLR set also to infinity, look through the Nettar's lens at the mark on the parchment paper. If the mark is in focus, the lens is adjusted correctly. This works best when the SLR has a split image finder. Keep putting out these great videos!
Thanks for this video. I am sorry, I think that you make a mistake when you set the parchment UNDER the 2 rods : a film loaded in the camera is ON these 2 rods. Thus you made an error, equal to the diameter of the rods, on the position of the plane where the image is focused.
I have an Ikon Nettar 515 and did basically the same. I don't have an accessory rangefinder, but I cut a piece of ground glass for the film plane. -- by the way, wouldn't you wrap the parchment OVER the steel rollers, instead of under?? Anyway, I tested the lens at all marked focus distances to find the actual for focus distance for each marking - then wrote it all down on a card that I can carry with the camera. I also have a bunch of close-up accessory lenses and tested each of those at each marked focus distance - adding the info to my card. Now, if I want to get a close-up shot, I select my accessory lens and set the camera-subject distance (from the card) with a scale, and voila! I'm glad you posted this lesson - I'm sure it will be helpful to many!
Iain also asked the same. The paper was more taught under the rollers and more flat against the big 6x6 hole. I reckoned when film is loaded and hatch closed it pushes tight against the big 6x6 hole. Others mentioned ground glass and I did wonder, But I don't have any a way ha ha so that was out the window. Thanks for the comment Kurt and well observed.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Agreed! We're on the "same page" regarding the parchment paper. I had considered using paper, but never tried it. I guess I should have - your setup worked fine. Over/Under, like you said - it was on the image plane. My camera doesn't have a red window in the middle of the back. I had to use a dark cloth and loupe. I'm glad you did this video!
Another material that is good if you don't have access to ground glass or parchment paper is the frosted plastic layer from an LCD panel, I have used those to calibrate the focus of cameras before. Plus me taking everything electronic apart, it is more easily available for me.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss There are a variety of videos on TH-cam on making inexpensive ground glass focusing aids. The couple I watched suggested using glass form picture frames. Another option might be inexpensive window glass from a local home improvement store. That's what I used when I was looking for inexpensive glass to practice cutting glass with before attempting to cut stained glass. Some home improvement stores will even cut the glass for you.
looking through the red window was a genius idea :)
George - what a star performer!
He's a good Dog
Do not forget that your Rangefinder will drift over time, you will have to calibrate it by focusing it at a distant object like a lamp post in the far middle distance. Great shot of George at the end.
How offen do they lose calibration? Say if you use it every day.
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss My Rangefinder is a Photopia, I use it on the Kodak Retinette series of cameras, it has a simple spring inside which looses tension over time.
I picked up a Zeiss Ikon Nettar for £30 off of eBay the other day and purely by chance the same range finder but in ft. This little tutorial is brilliant. The tracing paper was a great idea, never even thought you could do that.
I have the same camera. Interesting the distance is shown in feet on my camera. I came across an interesting article in AP 25 Oct 2003, by Ivor Mantle. He really rates the Novar lens very highly, as good as as a Tessar when stopped down . Interesting that while Novar was a Zeiss Ikon trade mark, the lens manufacturing was sub-contracted to Rodenstock or Steinheil. Enjoying your videos , Ed
I'm shooting on a Zeiss Ikonta 521/16 that is very similar. If you first advance your film and then open the camera and the bellows extend, air gets sucked in and kind of pulls the film a little bit from that metal plate. That's why I sometimes got unsharp pictures. Now, I always open the camera first and then advance the film. That keeps the film nice a tight and my pictures sharp. 😉
Interesting. I know the bellows suck as I saw it happen with the parchment paper on. Thanks for the comment. Good read.
Great lesson, thanks. Nice to see George again.
Another great video in the Zeiss Ikon, mine will be arriving today so I'm spending the morning going over all your video's on this camera.
Enjoy!
I intend to 😃
I just found your channel, and now I am a subscriber.
Thanks Mike. Enjoy 😀
Great lesson. I can’t wait to try the parchment paper focus test. Another well made video-thank you.
Love how the video is really simple and clear with the great lighting! I really enjoyed the thoughtful idea. Love your videos... Short, clear, right to the point!
Thanks Nasser
Specially paid more for my ZIcon because it had the range find attachment. Thanks to you, can now use it; the parchment paper test = brilliant!😎
Great idea, I've an old AGFA Isolette folding camera, must pick up one of those rangefinders.
Nice Roger! I've been keeping an eye out for one, because I know how much you enjoy yours.Thanks for all the info!
I use a rangefinder like that with my Rollei 35 for when I want accurate focus up close (especially if I want to shoot at f2.8) and it works a treat. Those rangefinders are quite easy to recalibrate if necessary too.
Brilliant Roger I just picked up an Ikonta 524/16 looking forward to playing ❤️📷❤️
Thats a very clever idea - will be trying that! Many thanks
I went down a different route to find minimum focus on the Nettar. Wide open and on minimum focus, I placed a tape measure from the film plane to the scene and found the sharpest focus point on a scanned negative. Bear in mind the further away the subject is from the camera, the broader the zone of focus even at max f4.5. Stopping down shifts the focal point a bit, too.
Realistically the ZI Nettar isn't the ideal tool for spot-on close ups, but it's handy to know where minimum focus is. Sharp half length portraits are easily doable at maximum aperture. For longer distances I use an iPhone measuring app, or just guess. Gave up on shoe mounted rangefinders, they constantly go out of whack.
I have a Nettar 518/16, and a Watameter II accessory rangefinder. I actually found an online manual for both. In reading up on the Watameter, the manual says for close-up work, to measure the distance from the front of the rangefinder to the front element of the lens, which in my case is 3 inches. It says to subtract that distance (.076 meters) from the distance to be set on the lens to account for this. This confuses me, because I would think the distance markings on the Nettar are to the film plane and not front element to the subject. This is maybe a case of a guy who made a pretty decent rangefinder not knowing how most cameras work. I'll have to check it and see. I did get instructions on how to calibrate the Watameter, which was not how I expected, and just as unexpectedly, this old piece of kit was spot on. I've checked it with a tape measure at all relevant distances and it is good. This adds immeasurably to the enjoyment of my Nettar.
This was a very useful tip. I’m looking to get a 6x12 camera which as no focus. Great video as always.
I’ve used frosted gift wrapping tape as a “ground glass” on rangefinders to adjust the split screen.
I’m a fan of the little pocket laser measuring devices, and made the cheat sheet referred to by another commenter here.
Printed the cheat sheets or my Fuji 617 in a format that matches the back of the laser device and taped it on.
That is what I am currently using is a laser range finder. They are handy for more than just putting curtain rails up.
I got a Franka Solida III a week ago and I dared to question the focus. I did something similar, but I realized that even a really soft paper or parchment wasn't enough, I needed something more smooth and I hadn't the possibility of cutting a ground glass.
What I used? I tried with a piece of plastic bag, and it was an improvement. But then I thought: why not use a tense piece of latex globe? I sticked the extremes over the rollers and it worked as a charm. Then I was able to use a x10 magnification loupe, adjust the lens and ta-da!, perfect focus.
You just saved my day! Got very cheap ZI Ercona in unknown state and I was not sure how to check focusing
Very interesting and useful explanation!
I have an Agfa Isolette II. Pretty similar. Get it right and it razor sharp. I love shooting Ilford Pan F 50 in mine.
SO gotta love George :-) And a verrry interesting techy vid :-)
Cheers mate
Thank you for sharing this I will try that on my Agfa Isolette
Having put a roll of film through my Nettar I found a lot of out-of-focus pictures. There were two problems. Firstly my Watameter rangefinder (£14, eBay) was faulty. If calibrated at infinity, things 10 feet away didn't measure 10 feet. If I calibrated it for 10 feet, things at infinity measured at 50 feet. A friend gave me another Watameter and it's spot on. Secondly the camera was set incorrectly, Using a piece of opaque plastic film as you did, I discovered that things at infinity were in focus with the lens set to about 30 feet. There are 3 little grub screws around the focus ring, if you slacken them slightly you can turn the focus ring. So using the plastic film and looking through the red window I set the camera to focus on something a long way away, then slackened the screws and turned the ring to just before infinity without changing the focus. I've now checked the focus at various distances from 4 feet and all seems good. Now I need to put another film through it! It will be worth it though, lovely little camera. I found it easiest to check the long range focus at night, a distance light source makes a pin point through the window when it is in focus.
Great cameras when they work. I gave that one away in the end. The focus slipped and I couldn't get it back. I have another one now. £20 bargain on ebay. I mainly use zone focusing if I'm around f11/f16 outside. I've been getting good results too.
On those rangefinders where you turn the focus knob, you will see that there is a small adjuster knob in the centre. You set the rangefinder at a known distance and turn the adjuster accordingly. Do this at a few distances to double check.
How about using one of those laser measuring devices that builders use? I imagine it is super accurate. Not sure whether it would work outdoors, though.
Yes someone also mentioned that cheers.
Those accessory rangefinders can be pretty pricey possibly costing more than the camera itself
I have a question. How many turns you have to do on the film roll to advance the film for one frame?
I've never counted. On the back of the camera there is a window to see the frame numbers on the backing paper of the film. So you turn "advance" to the next frame which are numbered 1, 2, 3 etc
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss Thanks! My camera had the back window blocked, but now I put some fine elbow grease and it works!
Went through a few rolls in my Zeiss and then discovered that my external rangefinder was completely uncalibrated! Would say 40 feet when I focused on things at infinity
That's what I was worried about.
I will try this..but is there no kind of screw in the lens to adjust to the right focus?thnx
There is a tiny screw on the edge of the lens where you can adjust the focus but it's easy to really mess it up.
What kind of dog us George? He looks very much like our rescued Luna.
He's a Shih Tzu.
Is it possible to first focus on an SLR and then use the numbers on the Nettar? I just bought one and can't wait to use it
I'm not so sure that would be compatible. Different lenses and focal planes. I started shooting mine on infinite and shooting scapes
@@ShootFilmLikeaBoss ah i see. Well i guess i need to do some experiment. I updated you if you're interested
Shouldn't your parchment paper go over your rollers in the camera, just like you load a film? It will change your focal plane slightly and could affect focus. Another method to test your lens is to use an SLR that you know is focusing properly. Put a mark on your parchment paper (like an X, on the inside surface) and set your Nettar's aperture to full and lens to infinity. Set the shutter on B and lock it open. Now, with an SLR set also to infinity, look through the Nettar's lens at the mark on the parchment paper. If the mark is in focus, the lens is adjusted correctly. This works best when the SLR has a split image finder.
Keep putting out these great videos!
Yes Wayne but I couldn't get the paper to stay on the back. Thanks for the SLR tip!👍
Thanks for this video. I am sorry, I think that you make a mistake when you set the parchment UNDER the 2 rods : a film loaded in the camera is ON these 2 rods. Thus you made an error, equal to the diameter of the rods, on the position of the plane where the image is focused.
See pinned comment Michael. Cheers.