RA-4 Printing, pt 1: Tools and Materials
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 มิ.ย. 2024
- This is part one of a three part series on making an RA-4 color print in the darkroom. This video covers the tools and materials to make a print. Part two will go over the basic steps to exposure and correct for color balance, and part three will look at more advanced techniques. The basics are outlined in Kodak J-39 for reference, and I will be using Kodak RA4-RT chemicals. These make 10 liters each of developer and blix, but if you do not want to mix that much at once, I recommend reading Kodak CIS-49 Preparing Smaller Than Package Size Amounts.
Some useful links:
Kodak J-39 Tray, Drum, and Rotary-Tube Processing with Kodak RA Chemicals
imaging.kodakalaris.com/sites...
Kodak CIS-49 Preparing Smaller-than-package-size Amounts of Kodak Chemicals
125px.com/docs/techpubs/kodak...
Kodak RA-4 RT Developer 10L:
www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...
Kodak RA Developer Starter:
www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...
Kodak RA Bleach/Fix 10L:
www.uniquephoto.com/product/k...
Arista 2 Liter RA-4 Kit:
www.freestylephoto.biz/11812-...
Arista Color Printing Filters 3 inch kit:
www.freestylephoto.biz/31633-...
Arista Color Printing Filters 6 inch kit:
www.freestylephoto.biz/31636-...
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i spent a whole day doing all kinds of research and all i had to do was watch this video SMH - thanks for the wealth of info. gonna be printing at home soon!
I love your videos too! Makes me happy to see you here too 😆
SAME! My head was hurting😭
One of THE best series of videos on the internet with regards to the RA-4 process for beginners new to the process. Well put together, not convoluted or overly long and most of all to the point. Thanks to these sets of videos and a quick flick through my dark room handbook I was able to make colour prints at home in no time. Once you get the basics it's actually no more difficult than B&W I find. Assessing colour shift can be a little difficult at first without any special tools but once you get it and dial it in I find it's usually ok for subsequent prints if the temperature of the lighting is consistent i.e. daylight.
Wishing I could “like” this video more than once. Thank you so much for this series, I keep coming back to it as I create/refine my own process
OMG THANK YOU!!! I’ve been looking for this process everywhere. I was trained on this method and seeing these huge machine is just mind boggling. Thank you for all the list of products and what you prefer. So helpful. I just bought my first enlarger after I stopped printing 7 years ago. So excited to get back in there
This is great. I've always been iffy about printing color ... now I think I'd do it if I can get a home printing setup. Thanks for sharing!
I've recently really wanted to get into doing my own photo prints, been doing film photography for a while and it felt like the right step to take next. And through UNBELIEVABLE luck I was able to get an entire darkrooms worth of photo printing equipment including those drums and motor. Now having almost everything I need to get started I obviously needed to know what I'm doing and I'm so glad this channel and video exists. Learned so much just by this one video than I was able to learn after doing extensive googling and going on random sites with random pieces of information.
Great! Can't wait to see parts 2 and 3
Nice! I've been thinking about getting into shooting, developing and printing color. Thanks for sharing!
Excellent! I really love your channel and your videos! Thanks!
Mr. Naked this is a great video!! This was extremely helpful on choosing which way to go on building my darkroom.
Great looking forward to the next video. You seem to read my mind and than make a video that will interest me. Keep it up you are doing great.
Really helpfull...great and very important work for keeping and pass over long forgotten krative process. Im just starting to do color printing .
👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 Can’t wait for part 2! Bravo!
Thank you for making this video! 💛
Excellent introductory video. Just what I needed! :-)
Most enlightening and interesting. I've been thinking about printing colour but haven't because there's no information out there.......... UNTILL NOW!! Thank you Mr Naked :-)
thank you so much for making this video !
Just wanted to thank you for your videos! Rather than taking Darkroom classes from a local Darkroom or a school I have completely taught myself through your videos. I now spend about 20hrs a week printing both RA-4 and B&W. This shit is fun!
These videos are exactly what and how I teach in my classroom.
Thanks for this video. It is the only one I've seen which tackles the subject of RA printing. Unhappily, that may reflect the ease of inkjet printing over wet work, but then the quality of a good RA print cannot be matched by inkjet. (I suppose they said the same thing when dye transfer printing was abandoned by Kodak.) I use a roller system similar to yours, but I prefer the Cibachrome drums. Unlike other brands, both endcaps are removable, so Ciba drums can be fully disassembled for wash and dry in just a minute, an absolute necessity for the Cibachrome process. They were made in sizes from 4x5 inches to at least 16x20. The 4x5 drum is great for the one-off test strip. To complete my procedure, I drive the roller base with a processing computer which is programed for all steps, leaving me nothing to do but change the chemistry at the buzzer. Looking forward to the rest of your videos.
Thank you very much, very clear explanation!
thank you for this video.
I will definitively try color printing soon :)
This is "the bible" for me in terms of RA-4 pritning - thanks so much for putting together this series of videos!
Thank you!
Hi I just have to thank you for really good and interesting videos. It is so good to increase interest in film photography again. greetings from a dedicated analog photographer :-)
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THIS INFORMATION! Forreal!
Thank you for this video. When I was 14 years old and started doing photography with film and developing and printing at home, I only worked with black and white film. Somehow I thought that color film developing and printing would be too difficult. Now that I am setting up my darkroom, besides being older (and wiser?) with more resources like this video, I will be doing color printing also. I recently picked up a Omega D5 with color head to go with my D-3.
Looking on ebay, the Kodak color print viewing filters were going for up to $200. I found my local camera repair shop that has lots of anything that people were getting rid of a set of these filters. I lucked out to get them for the marked price from Kodak of $25. A lot better than ebay.
I have a roller but find myself agitating the drum by hand. Maybe for it’s similarity to black and white printing rocking the trays.
I’ve also been mixing chems a liter at a time, pouring out the 100ml for a print. I pour the 100ml back into the measuring container and use it for a few more prints before pouring it back in the liter bottle. For casual printing it’s very economical that way.
Great video! This video got me to buy color filters and drums and chems. Loving the process and creative possibilities of color
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
And thank you for watching!
Greetings from Russia! Thank you very much for your explanation! So much helpful!
Thank you very much for doing this. I have recently bought Nova processor from England for color printing but it is still ahead of me. While making, learning and struggling with B&W printing I get closer and closer to color. Reading Henry Horenstein books on printing (also in color) helps but actually watching how someone does it is of great help. I can't wait for next episodes. Please do what you do. Regards, Maciek (Poland)
Back in the day. I always wanted to use a Nova system, but I was invested in roller drums and never made the switch. I think you are going to be very satisfied with the economies of space and chemistry used, particularly if you got one which is heat regulated.
You will enjoy the Nova!
Is it the version with a heated water bath around the developer?
I used it in the 90s with joy...
Regards from Germany..
excellent..Thank you for share...you the best..
I have actually found a huge difference when mixing kodak supplies and fugi supplies. I found that kodak film was always warmer and gave off a yellow or orange tint and fugi always gave off a green or blueish tint. when i mixed the two (using kodak film with fugi paper, which was always my preference) I found that the colors always came out more balanced in my initial prints. I just mean to say that I saw a very noticeable difference with mixing kodak and fugi products as well as using both kodak film & paper together or using fugi film & paper together.
Thank you for the video! I’m interested in “getting into” color printing. I have the equipment for roller processing, but didn’t know how to use it.
Jump in!
brilliant, thank you!!
Ok. Thx again. I thought about the same...making some kind of rolling thing , either elektrik or by mechanical... otherwise im glad to hear that its not all that impossible to roll by hand. I just noticed that yours have some kind of stoptaps on the drum to make a kind of equal roll. I guess this has not but i can make some up . I just git some old kodak viewing filters from u.s. Im almmost there ..looking forward to mess with color :-)
Ohhh, now you've gone and make me want to print color images. BAH! I have most of what is needed from 16x20 BW printing and I could do this without a lot of trouble.
Thanks for sharing! One thing I've had luck with is a pair of cheap kids' night vision goggles. Doesn't fog the film (CCD camera and IR LED's) and I can actually see what I'm doing. I've been considering getting some IR flood lights to use as a safelight and a pair of those VR goggles you put your phone into and then using the on-board camera which will see the IR light.
John Milleker Photography that’s actually an awesome idea ! If I may, what is the brand of the goggles you use ? Thanks !
@@loicmathys4057 - Sorry for the delay, I've been out of town. The brand I have is Spy Net Ultra Vision goggles, anything will work - this brand isn't made anymore but is overpriced on eBay for $100+.
In fact, these night vision goggles are just cheap CCD cameras. I'm considering getting one of those goggles you put your phone into and see if I can use the built in camera. Those cameras are CCD's and see infrared light.
Turn on your phone camera and point a remote control at it, you should see the remote flash! If the camera can see that, why not use a much nicer camera and an Infrared flood light in the darkroom?
Hi thanks for your video's very informative would you consider making a video on how to make a B/W print from a color neg?
Many thanks John
Would it be possible to do a vid on your equipment and methods of cutting the Kodak paper ? 🙂🙂
Thank you for this. I'd heard whispers that printing color was the stuff of madness. You've made it approachable. Or perhaps I should curse you... ;)
You may only curse me while you are making prints.
That drum is much better than the Cibachrome one I once used. The chemicals drained from the bottom and made a mess.
I'm very grateful for what you have done. I'm going to try printing color again because of your video ! But like other people, I have issues with getting the right chemicals. I was able to find a Kodak Ektacolor Prime SP developer replenishment instead of RT and I'm going to combine it with the Blix for RT. The Prime SP is only one bottle instead of 3, which is good. Have you use it and what is your time/temp recommendation for the drum 8x10 ? And as other people, i have doubt regarding Starter for the drum. Can we do without it, or it still worth $10 to add it to the Developer ? Thank you !!!
Hello, I love your videos! Just wanted to reach out and ask if you ever seen NOVA print (slot) Processor. It is for color as well and takes up very little space in the darkroom. Thanks for all these videos!!!
Yes I’ve used one before. The manufacturer of the Nova created the Optima processor that I reviewed in a different video.
I was wondering if you could make a video about printing black and white on RA4 color paper! With the prices of black and white traditional paper being so expensive versus the cheaper RA4 paper.
There is also the so-called print processor by nova, that has an inbuilt thermostate, I had one, unforunatly it broke because I let it dry cook it.. forgot to turn it of and when away for the week :/ , but they are still in business, and make those, maybe that is also an alternative, they are basically vertical developing trays. Maybe that can be an option for you and the processing goes quicker.
Nice and informative film I must say, tempting to pick colour printing up again.
You may be interested in my video review of the Optima processor made by the folks that made the Nova
Another great video but I’m missing on other processing method. I started color processing in the late 80s, first with a Daylab processor and then upgrading to and ATL-1 Jobo drum processor. However, my best investment was to buy a Nova slot processor. Don’t know if they are still available in the US but they still make them in England ( just search for NOVA Print Processor). They come in different configurations but mine have 4 heated slots, each one holding 1 ltr of chemistry and you agitate the prints vertically by lifting and dunking them. Best of all, they have a small foot print (~10”x12”) and, due to the small surface exposure, the chemicals last much longer that in an open tray. When not in use, each slot can be covered with a tube, extending the life-span of the chemistry. I never had any problem keeping the working solutions good for a week. With the right workflow and setup you can easily process 20 8x10 prints in one hour.
I used one about 10 years ago. They are nice, but very hard to find in the US. The model I used allowed prints up to 16x20 inches and had three slots.
With drum processing, I'm curious how you handle test strip processing and drying the drums between prints without going crazy.
I'm planning to attempt RA-4 myself in a few months (using a Jobo or standalone drums like you), and have started accumulating some of the non-consumable supplies, so I'm definitely looking forward to watching the rest of this series.
I cut the strips so they still fit the circumference of the drum, even though they do not reach the length. I use the same amount of liquid to ensure coverage. To dry the drum, I have three that I rotate use. I dry one quickly with a shop towel and let it air dry while I use the other two. By the time I get back to the first drum, it has dried completely. I will show what a drip defect looks like next time because I mixed up my rotation.
thank you
Hello and Thank you for the amazing work You are doing here. I was woundering do the 20x24 drum work on your motor base? Im about to get a Durst Comot motor base drum but dont know if it Will work with the Jobo 20x24 drum.
Thanks again for your work for the community 🙏🏻
Yes, it works fine with the base I use. I don’t know the size of the Durst base
Thank you so very much! I Will have to investigate further. :)
Are Jobo tanks a good choice for paper development when used with a Simma Roller system? I'm asking this because it seems you can only pour in chemicals holding the drum in a vertical position, as opposed to the Simma drums which can be filled horizontally.
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!
If you are using the Jobo drum with the cup insert for the lid, the liquid doesn’t touch the paper until you tip the drum horizontally.
Can I ask what your roll paper cutting machine is and where did you get it from? thanks!!! the videos are very informative
It is an Italian made machine called the Rollma AD-80. It is discontinued but I got mine from a surplus company selling it on eBay.
Hi! Thanks for this video! Explanations such as this one are great: both detailed and straight to the point. That being said, I'm a bit confused about one thing: In the drum method, you speak of "non-reusable" chemicals. Is that per print, or per 16-or-so batch of prints? I'm asking because you do pour the chemicals back into their beakers after having used them once...Thanks!
I pour them back for disposal. The drum uses very little liquid, but the spinning action causes very fast oxidation of the developer, so you only get one cycle out of it.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks a lot for the reply!
Hi Thank you so much for this great series of Color printing.But I have a bit of problems.I am living in Bangkok, Thailand and have tried to do everything from everywhere to get RA-4 chemicals set but nobody shipped this chemicals anymore. I read online regarding some photographers mixed their own RA-4. Could it be possible for you to do video on mixing RA-4.
I’ll consider it, but some of the ingredients are very hard to get
In brief sir u have stated Al most all ...but sir since ur work is a globalized so ..safety first uses of gloves since colour chemicals are some time even carcinogenic..toxic even next is while open tray process is to be done there comes up adjacency effects depends how one agitate the Dish on each rolling of dish a fresh chemicals first act upon the edges of the paper underprocess and slight density increases are noticed specially the edges of the paper next is how to shift the paper after say developer actions be over and paper to shift to the next bath so how to hold the paper ..tongue or bare hand a weakly acedic stop bath ...many says alkalinity of the first bath rather a requirement to retain to help the Blix bath also in Ra 4 open tray process restricts the black density of the print .. I may be wrong thanks sir some time we must look the tech kept behind ..a refreshing of sooo nice of those days thanks sir dada Nomostey ....
Hi there. Its nice that you give a lot of ra4 safelight options but if you should surgest one that is just one what would it be? (My darkroom is very littel about 3x3 meters)
If I had to get just one, a Kodak Wratten #13 safelight filter
Thank you for the video. Amazing series! What are your thoughts on the Nova Print Processors? Looks like they are very convenient to use, they take up less space compared to trays, you can airtight the slots (less smell) and are temperature controlled... Hmm!
I’ve used one before. It was alright.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you for your comment. 'Alright' doesn't sound amazing. Why do you prefer the drum method?
It’s just what I have. I wouldn’t say it’s better
Hi. I would appreciate your thoughts on whether a colour analyser like the one philips made are a good idea for colour printing workflow. Are they good for beginners and pro use or is it not worth the hassle. Thanks Julian 🇬🇧
I’ve never used one, even when printing for a pro lab. I’m afraid I can’t give you an answer based on experience.
Hi, a very nice explanation of the RA proces, well done! Beside using negative film such as Kodak Ektar 100 I also use Chrome film like Fuji Velvia. I was wondering if there is a solution how to print that film on darkroom paper? Many thanks!
Yes, some people reverse process RA4. I’ll dive into that another day.
The Naked Photographer that would be great!!!!!
Thanks for this very informative video. Do you know if it’s possible to use mixed developer from Bellini (or any other brand) as a starter and replenish with Kodak Ra4 RT? Thanks!
I have never tried. Since they are most likely using the same active ingredients it should work.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Ok, cool thank you! Since supply in Germany ist short at the moment and I can't find the Kodak starter, I will try this.
when making a proof sheet from color negatives do you recommend having the filters dialed in to 40m 50y to get a rough overall idea of the roll,or is there a different procedure for contacts?
TIA
After you print a few times you will probably notice the color balance doesn’t change very much from negative to negative, as long as it’s the same type of film. So an average setting for your negatives could be used for the contact sheets.
Hiya! Would you say fuji or kodak is more contrasty? Ofc you can flash paper to reduce or push film to increase but I was just wondering what is more contrasty straight out of the box. Amazing channel!
Kodak Endura Premier is more contrasty than Fuji CA, but probably equal to Fuji Maxima if you can find it.
Thanks a lot for replying
Wonderful video!
.i am gonna do ra4 chems in diy jobo tank.
what should be the temp and times for water rinse, cd and blix?
thank you
You can use them at room temperature for two minutes each.
Thanks for this series of videos! I have made my first tests using Fujicolor Crystal Archive and noticed that the blacks at not as deep as i hoped them to bee. I have seen on fujifilm website that they have several versions in rolls including “Fujicolor Crystal Archive Digital Paper Type DPII” which they claim has deeper black. It is for RA-4 but they state that it is designed for digital development. Do you have any experience of this paper or how to get deep dense blacks in analog development?
You have discovered what many of us have noticed too. All other RA4 papers are sold in rolls, but your choices are better. Kodak Endura Premier is much better, as is Fuji Optima (I think that’s the name).
@@TheNakedPhotographer It seems very difficult to find Kodak RA-4 paper in Europe, so I think I have to stick with Fuji. I do not have a problem cutting them down my self
As they come in 30.5 cm width rolls. What would you say about RA-4 paper that is designed exclusively for digital output”. Would you say these works for Analog as well? Fuji has a paper the call Maxima. Is that what you thought of when you wrote Optima?
Yes, Maxima. I’m surprised Kodak is hard to find because it’s made in Britain. But the Maxima is Fuji’s pro line like Kodak Endura.
I use the Adox Ra4 kit at room temperature. I tried doing this and have a magenta cast. Also on the borders(non exposed parts). Could this be because the blix is not at 35 deg, or is it due to an old batch of paper? Do you have any suggestions?
The only kit I recommend for room temperature is Kodak RA-RT. The other kits, even from Kodak, are not designed for low temperatures. Your paper could be contributing if it is long out of date. Color paper does not last long when expired.
Would you mind sharing the name of the automatic paper cutter you have please? I'm looking for one in Europe but don't know what to look for. Thanks a lot!
The company is no longer in business
I've been recently having some issues with some blue streaking/staining on my RA-4 prints using Kodak Chemicals on Fuji Crystal Archive Paper. Through some research on some message boards/RA-4 Groups, I've been advised to remove prewetting from my process and add a stop bath. Have you experimented without a prewet? My original process has been Prewet 30s → Dev 1min → Blix 1min @ 34.4ºc. I am now using Prewet 30s → Dev 1min → Stop 30s → Rinse 30s → Blix 1min @ 34.4ºc but I'm still noticing some blue staining. Thanks so much!
I use the first second process you listed, but I don’t typically get stains, when I do, I use the second process you described. The only thing I can think of is if you didn’t fully dry the drum before putting the paper in.
@@TheNakedPhotographer thanks so much! I'm using several drums to allow for adequate drying in between. It's totally driving me nuts. I really appreciate your quick response. I'll keep at it.
I’m curious about what type of cutter and despencer you have I’m searching for one of those but they are quite rare
Its an Italian made machine by Rollma. They’ve been gone a long time
While I’m further building the darkroom, I started looking at the chemical side of the story. For a good understanding, I’ll be using the rotary-drum technique to develop the RA-4 paper.
Forgive me my ignorance, but I’m still a little puzzled about your statement that the liquids can only be used once when using the rotary-drum technique. I have 2 basic questions:
1. When you begin with a starter + replenisher solution, isn’t the replenisher then supposed to revive the developer when it loses strength? In other words, isn’t it even more economical to keep the used developer alive?
2. Is also the Blix ruined after one shot? I assume that the Blix gets contaminated by a too high degree due to the developer residue left in the drum. Is that correct? Putting a stop bath in between would not change anything in this respect, except more labor?
In rotary processing the developer is too highly oxidized to reuse, even with replenishment. The bleach component could be used one more time, but the fixer could not. It also becomes oxidized from the rotary action. Tray development and roller transport are much more gentle, so replenishment can be done easily.
The stop and rinse steps before the blix are used to prevent streaks from the sudden change in pH. You may not need these steps, but Kodak recommends them when streaks occur.
Hi . Do you have any experience with Bellini ra4 kit? ( i allways use tetenal but its impossible to get a hold of these days - sold out everywhere) the bellini kit is half price of tetenal at consists of a developer, fix and then a stabilizer. Now ive never seen stabilizer in any of the other kits - do you have any opinion of this?
I can’t find the Bellini kits in the US
@@TheNakedPhotographer ok i think its italian made - dosent help 😩😊well i did order a kit . I just wonder about the stabilizer step og a ra4 process
I'm a bit confused where to buy the kodak RA-4 chemicals. Any recommended places to buy online?
This video is very informative, thank you! Is it bad idea to mixing up all the 10L chemical at once and keep it in a 10L tank?
Not if you use it. If it sits a while the developer will oxidize and become useless.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Okay, so I should mix only the amount I use. Thank you! I just bought the drums and the motor, I'm very excited to try.
@@TheNakedPhotographer I wonder, in this drum processing with 50ml of chemicals for 8x10 paper, how many prints can you make until you have to change the chemicals?
I only use each chemical once
Can I use the drum system for b/w? Reason I ask is I have very minimal space for laying out all the trays
For RC black and white. Fiber paper gets too floppy when wet to stay against the drum wall.
I'm struggling to find the kodak developer kit together. What are the three bottles you need? It's very confusing with all the starter and replenishers what I actually would need to print in a drum.
You’re not alone. The company that handles distribution of Kodak’s color chemicals and paper is in financial trouble. This means nobody has it in stock.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks for pointing out, I'm reading now Kodak Alaris sold it off two years back. What's a shame and a disaster! Would have been great if Kodak Eastman had gotten it back.
could you make a video about using Philips PCA 061 color analyser or other unit for this purpose ?
I do not own, nor have ever used a color analyzer
@@TheNakedPhotographer I have one but I don't know how to use it for subtractive way
You have a note that says in addition to the three-bottle RA-4 developer, you need a developer starter. How is that used?
The developer that I use, Kodak RA4-RT is technically a replenisher, which is stronger than a developer. In order to get it to a stable developer, a starter solution is added to a fresh mix. Without it, replenisher would give you unpredictable results.
Great video thanks. This is the only reason to shoot C41 film. If you aren’t printing it like this then shoot E6 (or digital eeek).
E6 and C41 have very different color palettes and dynamic ranges.
Can you share the name of your paper cutter / dispenser? I've been looking for one but I can't seem to find them.
It’s an Italian company called Rollma, but they aren’t made anymore.
Hi again again and. again.... recently ive been buying 40x50 trays . I have a dream of making 40x40 color prints from my mamiya c330 but now ive stumbled across a very cheap 4550 jobo drum so i want to ask if you think its possible to hand roll with success with this fellow? And avoid develop in darkness? Thanks. :)
I would at least get a roller base or make one out of wheels, but that can absolutely be done by hand.
The Naked Photographer i guees i should answer you here..sorry!
Does a color head give you more control over color balance than color filters?
Absolutely
Can you maybe explain the way the color head is used again? I don’t understand how cyan is used as ND. If your print is actually too red you’d need to use cyan right? And how is cyan ND when you’ve balanced the yellow and magenta in your shot? Adding or subtracting cyan would make your print more cyan or red, right?
You actually don’t use the cyan dial at all. To control red/cyan you use the magenta and yellow dials together in equal amounts. Cyan creates ND because when all three filters are used together, they make a grey filter. For example, say you have M and Y dialed to 50 each. If you dialed in 10 C, you have made 10 points of ND and reduced the M and Y to a balance of 40 each. This will change your color but also change your print to be lighter overall.
@@TheNakedPhotographer But that’s it. It changes the color too. I get that the overall density changes but it always does because light is always added/subtracted, just not evenly. But when changing cyan changes the color too it’s not neutral density, right?
The change in color is happening because you are changing the effective amount of M and Y. You can change those without the C and get the same color change but without the exposure loss. You are also limited to the total amount of filtration possible. Same example: if your print takes 50M and 50Y without any C, then the same print color would use 100C, 150M, and 150Y. If you then want to make a big change in magenta and your enlarger only goes to 170, you’ve limited yourself to a 20 point change at most.
I watched a video titled “intro to color printing with a black and white enlarger” and in it he said you can use Kodak color compensating filters. Why do you not recommend using them?
You can, it’s just more difficult
@@TheNakedPhotographer I’ll have to use them I guess cause I already purchased a large set after watching that video. Thanks for the info!
Do you think there is any advantage to using a RA-4 stabilizer in addition to a thorough rinse in water? I was reading a thread about archival properties of c-prints and this guy from RIT wrote, "You could probably increase the stability even more by using a stabilizer, but then you have more to contend with in terms of other problems. We always found that stabilizers improved print stability." What do you think? I have been printing a ton of RA-4 in my darkroom since watching your videos on the subject :) Thank you for the knowledge.
One of the people who invented the RA4 process was a man named Ron Mowry. He says a thorough wash works better than stabilizers since the residual fixer is not washed out in the stabilizing process. There is not an RA4 stabilizer that is designed to be used after a wash like with C41 film as far as I know.
@@TheNakedPhotographer great insight! Thank you again for the knowledge 🙇♂️
@@TheNakedPhotographer there is in the Bellini Kit!... and it looks (then I guess is) different than their film (E6, C41, ECN2) stab. I wonder if I should bother or not....
Don’t waste your money. Wash well and be done
Anyone have a good lead on where to find some RT Developer? It's the only thing I can't find on B and H or Unique photo. Thank you for this amazing info!
I get it from Unique Photo all the time. They may just be out of stock.
@@TheNakedPhotographer I see now, thank you! So the version they are selling is just one bottle, not a set of 3- is that the right thing to get, along with the 2-bottle blix and the starter?
It should be 3 bottles, so either they aren’t showing all three in the photo or you are looking at the starter and not the developer
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you, just got my shipment of chemicals in and can't wait to start printing!!
The Naked Photographer in terms of tools you don't recommend a colour analyser? Is it not useful to reduce paper tests? Thanks
I have just never used one. If you have one and find it useful then continue.
That kind of tool is more appropriate if you shoot a test frame with your negative with a Mc beth color checker chart as a reference, calibright or xrite make good one they work not only for digital camera but also on oldschool film method. The only thing you cant change on film is the white balance, cause your portra kodak for exemple is tungstene balanced and your ektar is more daylight balanced, for using tungstene film as daylight you should use a kodak filter on your lense to compensate when you shoot your picture.
Why rinse rc paper got up to ten minutes? Don’t most brands only recommend around 2 minutes?
Well.. I've got two enlarger. My first is a Durst 800 condenser. I use the Arista's filters for color printing. Usually I use about Y30, M30, C0. The second is a M601 with color head cls66 and the inner filters practically doesn't work. I can put until 100 but the result is the same..zero!. So the question is: the age of the inner filters can be important?
Yes, they can fade over time. Can you see a difference on the easel as you dial in more magenta?
@@TheNakedPhotographer The magenta from 0 to 100 is very slight. The difference in saturation with arista filters is enormous.
The filters have degraded too much. You may be able to find replacements, but I couldn’t tell you where. Durst is no longer in operation I believe
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you very much. I think that I'll print with my condenser enlarger and arista's filters. About Durst... yes they are closed about enlarger production.
Ive been researching kodak RA-4 Developers and there is a 'Starter' and 'replenisher'. I'm confused, do i need one or both of them?
Replenisher is your developer, but because it is supposed to be added to slightly used developer it is extra active. Starter is an additive that you put in the replenisher if you aren’t adding it to used developer to tame that extra activity.
The Naked Photographer thanks for the reply, so I’m assuming then that I would only need the ‘starter’ if I wanted to slow down the developing time for some reason? As a beginner to RA4 I would only need the developer replenisher and blix if I was using a processing drum?
Omitting the starter will give a different filtration, but as long as you are consistent it should be fine.
Hi there . I just bought a durst m805 Because it is Big and beautiful and was cheap aaand has a density knob/filter which my m605 has not.
Now i thought at first that this is a filter that Can vary the contrast but now im uncertain . I have the m805 color manual but i cant Seem to read from this what or how to use this filter. Do you by any chance know how to use this and what it does ? Regards jesper
If I remember correctly it is just a neutral density filter to adjust printing times, but it doesn’t affect contrast or color balance.
@@TheNakedPhotographer ahah ok. That makes sense. Thanks once again. I properbly have Said it before… but what a great work you do keeping darkroom alive 👍🏻👍🏻
I've been researching RA-4 chemicals as I'm getting closer to finally attempting this. One thing I noticed is that Kodak's minimum quantity is 10L. Do you mix up all 10L upfront, or do you mix it in portions? Also, how do you store the stuff? Somehow, 1L and 1gal bottles are easy to find, but other sizes not so much. (And I'm guessing I should have something that 10 is divisible by, without needing a whole cabinet full of separate bottles.)
I've also noticed that Kodak makes an "additive" to extend the shelf life of the concentrates, but the docs are unclear on how much of a difference it makes. (Likewise, the docs don't seem to show numbers for how much longer the RT chemistry lasts versus the non-RT chemistry, despite the RT stuff claiming to have extra oxidation protection.)
If I am going to print only a few prints I will only mix up a couple liters at a time. If I’m going to print a whole exhibition I will mix the full 10 liters. I use glass bottles in 1 gallon, 1/2 gallon, 1 quart, and 1 pint. If I mix the whole 10 liter package then I will fill up a 1 gallon bottle and 5 quart bottles. When four of the quart bottles are emptied, I refill them from the gallon. This minimizes air exposure. The last liter is usually still in a measuring beaker to be used immediately.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thanks, that guidance was quite helpful. I just confirmed that a 1 gallon jug (at least the plastic Delta ones) will actually hold 4L if you fill it to the top. I'm hoping the same is true for the glass ones like what Photographer's Formulary sells.
Any tips for cheap "disposable" containers to collect used chemistry in for proper disposal? The whole disposal situation is going to rapidly become a huge issue once I start one-shotting for color prints.
Hopefully I'm now only a few weeks away from actually ordering chemicals and paper to get started on this.
I use a plastic 5 gallon paint bucket and lid for the waste
@@TheNakedPhotographer When mixing 10L, do you mix in 1-2L increments or do you actually have a huge 10L mixing container?
I have a 10L container
Hello, Is it possible to use a condenser enlarger and filters? And... is it possible the contact printing from 8x10 sheet film to 8x10 paper? Thanks
Yes to both. I have made contact prints of color photos before. It works just fine. A lot of people use color printing filters with condenser enlargers, just make sure you have a color print filter set.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you very much. Another important question. What about the look of the RA-4 prints? Are they different from a inkjet color print? I'm 53 and sincerely I don't remember a really nice color print in the past but perhaps They had a minilab look and so it had a poor quality,
Too many variables to describe the differences, but, yes they have a different look
What are the other two chemicals that go with the 3-part RA RT developer?
The developer comes as three parts, A, B, and C that you mix together with water. The blix is made up of parts A and B, also mixed with water before use.
The Naked Photographer Thank you! These videos have been very helpful
Hi, what automatic paper cutter do you have?
Rollma AD-80
Why do you need to wash and dry between sheets?
The first step is pre-washing. Why not just wash, and go on for the next print?
Water left in the drum can often leave streaks on the paper that do not even out from the pre wash
@@TheNakedPhotographer that is just witchery to me, and doesn't make any sense to be honest. But thanks for answering! And thanks for sharing all this content, this is definitely a niche that needed filling.
Hi there. I just took a chance buying a phillips pca 061 color analyzer pretty cheap in hope of saving some expensive paper😊 the probe, when put under the lens, dosent give me the readings as the manual says on the meter , actually the meter dosent react on 40x50 print with a aparture on 11 not even when set to 5.6. Its dead . Now i supose that the metering cell is finished ( thats what im hoping you can tell me somthing about , if these cells is likely to go defect by time, but of course i dont know if you are familliar with this thing) but when i place the probe under my celling lamps the meter reacts up and down when i lower og raise the light on the contactslider. Do you have any idea ? ( i think this instrument would have been pretty smart if it worked like it should but i actually dont know )
Have you tried on a smaller print size to see if it reacts?
@@TheNakedPhotographer actually now you say so i slided the diffusor box from 66 to 35 one time to night and i think i got a reaction. But thats shifting format i guess. No i havent made it smaller if thats what you mean but i will certainly try.
@@TheNakedPhotographer yuhhuu..i got and reaction on the the first step that i couldnt get as i described above by doing smaller print as you said. But then im supposed to push a magenta button .. and the meter stays in the left side. So by adding magenta filter on the durstm805 it should raise the meter to the center (0) but nothing happens when im adding magenta filtration. ( now again i dont know if you a familliar with this thing ofcourse ) 😊
Its like it dosent get enough magenta ..ive also tried to push the other filter slider on ( the one i guess is adding values over 100 something??) ( i really dont know if this makes sense for you😊)
I’ve never used an analyzer so I can only recommend the the manual. If it doesn’t seem to work, it might be broken
What does "pre wet" means? is it just water? - thanks
Yes, I use water at the processing temperature
If anybody is viewing this in 2021 and is interested in dry to dry RA-4 printing I have a very well maintained Fujimoto CP31 with dryer.
ADOX sells RA-4 sheetpaper
Yes, relabeled Fuji Crystal Archive
You say you prefer not to use the Jobo for prints and additionally you advise to work at room temperature. Why is this when temperature seems to be tightly specified in the RA4 spec and Jobo is used to maintain correct temperature? I have only ever done black and white prints in trays so please take this as an earnest question from a point of naïveté.
One of the photo engineers whose name is on the patent for RA-4 told me you could run the process at room temperature just fine with extended time. I don’t use the Jobo because it’s old and I don’t want to stress the motor more than I have to.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you!
do you think that c-41 might be the same in terms of working at lower temperatures for longer times?
No, time and temperature are much more critical with C-41
@@TheNakedPhotographer Thank you!
You mention possibly making your own drum from printing larger sizes. I tried making my own using the light trap shown here: 16mmadventures.com/2013/07/15/diy-daylight-developing-tanks/ . I realize that this is for 16mm film development not prints, but I figured it work just the same. It kind of did, but it was hard to pour chemicals into and out of and was just not great to use. So, if you do get around to making your own drum I hope you make a video. I'd be greatly interested. Your videos have been really helpful as I built my own darkroom over the last few years. Thanks.
Cant find a used, affordable, processor anywhere.
Me neither
lol you caught my attention lol