What sewing pattern info do you REALLY need? (some is missing on commercial patterns!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 พ.ค. 2022
- Even the commercial sewing pattern companies miss information that I find is absolutely necessary. Let me tell you ALL the pattern info you REALLY need to make your patterns complete!
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I never thought of “cut two” as a pair. Yes, that could make a big difference.
Same
You need mirror image to sew them right side together. Or like I say to myself: "left side facing me, that is good to go". This method helps me when I sew french seams first I need see right side toward me then I need see left side of pieces or at the end seams are outside garment not inside garment as should be.
I agree!
For the size we could put "Size [Date pattern was created]"
Yay! As soon as I saw your notification I clicked! It's so good to see your lovely face and hear your beautiful cheerful cheeky voice! I can't wait to learn something!
Also, will or are we able to one day meet you in person? Like how Comic-Con has they're favorite people show up for meet and greets. You're our star and I how one day to actually meet you in person! It would make my century!
Thank you again for being here for us! Thank you for your hard work and sharing your knowledge to teach us!
We appreciate you!
My daughter ended up as a bride's maid in two different wedding, shortly after finishing collage. I was ask to make her bride's maid dress for one of the Weddings. Another woman made the other dresses. The pattern was packed with the wrong instruction sheets. I was told to "Wing It" and get the dress cut out quickly; because, there was no time to get the correct instruction sheets (and "The other seamstress needed that pattern now"). So the dress was cut, fitted and sewed the best way I knew how without instruction sheets. My daughter told me later that her dress was clearly made better. There was a big difference in the sleeves of all the dresses.
Without the instructions, it was hard (but not impossible). I used the marking on the pattern and a copy of the picture of the finished dress on the envelope. How we ended up with so many different sleeves, I don't know? The sleeves I made were the same (they matched the ones pictured on the envelope.
Yes. Those marking on the pattern pieces are very important. I never would have made that dress without them.
Yes. The patterns made today are not marked very well; and, most new patterns do not have enough instructions with them.
I never would have thought to mark pieces in this way. Saying 1/5. That's just brilliant. I'll definitely use this from now on. Very good advice. Thanks.
I know that this is completely not your area of expertise but, I have ADHD and a soft autism diagnosis, and the part of sewing that trips me up the most is what order to sew things in. Because it's hard for me to follow written directions without a visualization next to them, my brain literally just doesn't want me to finish. It can't fully conceptualize doing these things. And while I do follow patterns with pirates I wish there were more neurodivergent TH-cam channels for things like sewing geared towards working with what our brains serve up to us. Although then the trouble comes with what might be easy for one neurodivergent might be impossible for others lol
You’ve got a premium idea there! Have you checked out any of the sewing with disabilities groups? Asking this question there may lead to some answers. Good luck!
Some pattern magazines go with visual instruction and written ones. I like them if I cannot figure it out next step from written instruction I have drawing to compare.
I mark my current weight on my patterns, since it changes a lot.
I package my patterns up in page protectors in a binder along with a note sheet for each one with any instructions and "next time" notes, also I'll toss snips of whatever fabrics I used in there too with comments about its suitability or not, as the case may be. I'm sure I'll get to a point where I need to separate stuff into multiple binders and I'll have to figure out how I'll divide it, but that time is not yet here. I often do my patterns without seam allowance because then I can draw my stitch lines right on my fabric and then note "add 1/2" s/a" with an arrow to each side, I find it way easier to eyeball my seam allowances when I'm cutting than to draw in my stitch lines after the fact, I need marked stitch lines way more than I need even seam allowances!!
We pretty much do the same for our armour patterns in the shop (with roll allowances rather than seam allowances, as needed), plus all the notes required to size and build the thing, those patterns are often made of cardstock or panelling and don't fold up, and there's no way anyone's going to go look for a piece of paper with construction instructions, so they NEED to be on the pattern piece when it gets hung on its hook on the wall. Then every customized armour piece has a folder in a file cabinet where we include the customer's measurements, any custom pattern pieces (folded up to fit) and notes on which stock pattern pieces were used and what changes were made, for example my armour folder has custom elbow pieces made because I'm smaller than the average armoured fighter, we used the usual elbow pattern for my knees, my gorget has padding on one side to account for my uneven shoulders, and we had to heavily modify and custom-design a few other pieces that are tucked in there, so if I ever need to re-create anything, I know where to start. And what to change next time (narrow the breastplate between my shoulders so I can actually get two hands on one sword!! angle the neck piece of the gorget out so I don't bruise my chin if I have do anything surprisingly athletic...).
Oh, and in both metal and fabric, I ALWAYS mark centre lines AND inside/outisde on both pieces and patterns. And those lines/pins/basting stitches stay in until I'm DONE, that way if anything goes wonky, I can maybe figure out where it went wrong.
Marking the top center of the bodice is such a good idea. I don’t know how many times I’ve had to know that when I’m attaching the collar or bias tape. Thank you! Also, some of the diy patterns I’ve copied from TH-cam don’t include a seam allowance. I write that info on my pattern to remind me later on.
Burda patterns do not have seams and hems allowance too. I learn the blocks don't have seam allowance and if pattern company have it I need this information on patterns pieces because I will add it and pieces will be to big.
I do often write the seam allowance and hem allowance on my pieces, as well as tracing them in many times (belt and suspenders!). Style Arc patterns sometimes have different seam allowances for different seams, and I do want that info on the pattern piece.
Please could you share the pattern for the top you’re wearing? It’s so pretty
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I never thought to place the seam allowance on the corners. That is WISE!
A pair is cut 2. But a pair makes more sense. Especially when it comes to pieces like sleeves.
Great video!! I wish this was around when I was starting. It took years for me to perfect the labeling for me. I started making for kids so I would buy multi size patterns and trace. This way I got the most out of the pattern for all the kids. Then I would start altering which was never the same for the kids! But it sure saved money on patterns and 1 out of 3 didn’t need regular alterations.
Future you will thank you for remembering to label everything on the pattern piece! Even stuff you think at the moment are self evident.
Definitely like the notch to mark the center, I'll be doing that every time now. It's true that it's never indicated on commercial patterns. Great tips as usual.
I have learned to add the year that I made the pattern in, as I have changed some body measurements over time it really helps to know as what year I made that pattern.
Great video. I personally prefer patterns without seam allowance so I can mark my stitch lines on the fabric. But I bought a blouse pattern with allowance included and I could not sew it... I wanted to use it to create a block for myself but the instruction only stated "different amounts seam allowance added to each seam... please follow the instructions" Yeah no thank you... I know how to sew a blouse... I only wanted to know the seam allowances and don't read 20 pages to find out -.- Will never buy a pattern from them again.
And when I store my patterns I try to add a small drawing what the finished design would look like - its much easier for me to find something again if I have a picture and not only written description. If its from a bought pattern I sometimes will photocopy or trace the drawing they have already provided.
I have also had this problem. About 3 years ago I started a sewing journal with the design, fabric interfacing and any notes which may help for e.g "redraft this pattern as original was not well designed". I have a journal for my wife, daughter & granddaughter and on for myself .
Kinda makes you feel like a little kid, when the instructions tell you: 'Don't ask questions! Just do as you're told!', doesn't it? 😆.
I'm biased towards patterns without seam allowance as well. I like being able, to precisely mark the seam line with things like the collar. And with a bit of practice, you can cut an even seam allowance freehand.
I tend to think of "Cut 2" more as a "Book Pair" when you turn a page in a book you have two pages but in one, if that makes sense! I will have to start putting the seam allowance on my patterns as I tend to forget what it was meant to be.
Excellent advice, Evelyn! I recently had a light bulb moment about the difference between "cut 2" and "cut a pair" 😊 And I do make a note of the seam allowance on each pattern piece. But the idea of actually marking on the stitch lines is genius 🤩 I shall start doing that from now on. Thanks, Evelyn!
For years I altered and cut directly from the commercial pattern until I realized that I could never count on being able to reuse the pattern with the same alterations as my weight might have changed or the pattern was just too trashed to use it again. I switched to tracing and altering and making notes on the tracing that would help me movedmthru the prep faster and when that tracing was too trashed to use again I can trace the pristine commercial pattern again... to trace a new working copy.
I need to start this habit! I do too many things on the fly (like my cooking) and can never really reproduce the result! I need to work on those good habits!
Awesome idea! Thanks for sharing!
The "squares and dots " was very helpful, had never thought of it like that!
Yeah!
I don't think I've ever made a pattern that needed those, but on some of my self-made patterns I did have to figure it out by myself, I need so much more practice with facings...
Those of us older ones, or if you pick up patterns from the 60's to 80's/90's, those patterns had FAR more info on them that modern ones today. They were almost stupid proof! Todays patterns are rubbish! I write comments on my patterns after I finish the garnment for future reference. Eg: around neckline "remove .5 cm for looser neckline HERE" if the jacket had a snug collar/neckline. It fits, but i would like it to be "easier" fit next time. Any info that comes from the finished garment, i will add to the pattern. Some seam lines you also might want to be 1" - because you want it to be a french seam, for example, so tracing off your own is the BEST idea, as you can tailor construction for what is important for you. Even comments about what dart in the skirt matches up with a dart on the top, for example.
I had started doing this a while ago. I just assumed it to be a way of organizing my self-correcting pzattern with all the adlustments I needed. Some of the other things suggested here I plan to use. And it DOES make it easier to create the pattern.
I always add a piece of the material with the pattern pieces. Helps when looking through.
That is a beautiful dress just btw ;)
I've noticed that recent commercial patterns no longer list the pattern pieces you need to complete a garment. I just finished making a Raggedy Ann and had to find each piece and compare it to the finished item pictured on the front of the envelope! (This pattern included pieces for Raggedy Andy and Camel.)
Maybe it depends on the brands? It’s not on the pattern tissue but I know simplicity has a list of all the different views and shows what pieces you need. Or they may list all the pieces and them show what views need that. So you need to do a little figuring out. I usually make a list off that and put that in the Manila envelope I use to store my patterns.
Typically, if there is not a listing in the instructions, each pattern piece will have what view it is used for.
Yes, marking is extremely important. Like grain lines, center front & back & cutting mirror images!
I bought one pattern, I think it was McCall's and they literally skipped a step or two. It went from sew front to back panel to suddenly adding the sleeves, but no mention of sewing the sleeves seams or finishing the cuffs. Luckily by that point I knew enough to finish it, but a new sewists would have had a hell of a time figuring that out
Hello! I hope you had an awesome day and got lots done. I'm still nursing a head cold and trying to rest. Thank you for sharing this video and your talent!
Please can you share the pattern used for your pretty top you’re wearing??
Also is that pioneer woman's fabric that you're wearing? I hear fabrics and prints.
I love the dress/top you're wearing today. thank you for a great instructional video.
I love your vintage sewing case in the background. So pretty!
I trace everything, never cut a pattern because although I’m underweight, my weight still fluctuates. I also don’t rely on the measurements on the pattern, but I do mark what sizing I am for bust , waist, and hip, then I measure the pattern. Alot of my patterns have too much ease than I prefer, because I’m underweight, I find out that when I measure the pattern, I can use the smallest size and still have 2.5” of ease.
I always write everything on my traced patterns. I also add extra notches.
Perfect timing. Am currently making patterns from favourite tops, and making toiles. Am taking notes, and making sure I write everything on each pattern for future reference. Many thanks, Evelyn.
A long time ago, my mom taught me to sew. darts used to be printed outside the line so you knew to cut them. Not so any longer ! Fast forward 40 years. I put together an apron from a pattern (with NO darts) for my sister as a housewarming gift. I forgot the dart thing! Thankfully I cut out the pattern well so things matched up so it’s not too bad. Unfortunately, this is for my sister that TEACHES sewing! 😂😂😂
Your pattern numbering system is brilliant. I see mostly indie patterns and they generally aren’t numbered. But most everything else you mentioned I always do. I grew up using commercial patterns and wanted all that information on my indie/self drafted patterns but, the numbering, or lack of, always bothered me. Now I have a solution! Thx.
Thank you for the great info!
Amazing class; thank you!
Love your videos! Thanks!
Thank you again Evelyn. Great video as always. Always learning from you even after decades of sewing. One thing I will keep in mind is that I will try and not call cutting 2 pieces, but instead think of cutting pairs. xxxx
I really enjoy your videos and they always inspire me. I'd love to see a video on sewing on your label. A nice close up of what stich you prefer and maybe how you keep it straight. Much love from Vancouver.
A dear sewing friend taught me to trace the small finished garment line illustration onto my pattern pieces too, and I do like that discipline. it can help me if I am borrowing a sleeve or a collar or a pocket piece from another pattern, if I am “frankenpatterning” two patterns together, to remember where to return that pattern piece when I am done.
Very helpful. I forgot to label the extra seam allowance which meant the trousers I made are slightly too snug. I can remedy this by either sewing decorative tape along the side seams to give a military look or gifting the trousers to my daughter.
As i understand this writing all infos possible is like a recipe copying lol you must know every infos needed lol.... grandma's recipe missing the right amount for the ingredients lol thank you kindly for this important video !
Great video thanks. Really useful information
Do most of these, but will now make sure I put all your recommendations onto the pieces.
Funnily enough, I just bought "The Pattern Making Primer" by Jo Barnfield and Andrew Richards because I'm new to all of this and I truly wanted an understanding of how things worked. The book goes into pattern annotations, tools/equipment, fundamentals of a garment, fabric considerations, designing a pattern from scratch, fitting principles and pattern adjustments, rub-off pattern drafting, volume and suppression, sleeves, collars, waistbands and cuffs, openings and fastenings, etc.
I recently bought and LOVE that book. Literally on my coffee table now!
@@jaclynramsier5271 I'm glad to hear you liked it!
I don't often make items with more than one button, so when I do I frequently forget to mark buttonhole placement until I'm ready to stitch them. I do realize that for the most part buttons can be placed wherever suits you (I'm forever having to make some adjustments for my giant bust), but I like to have the pattern suggestions as a start and see if there are specific reasons for the suggested buttonhole placement.
Once I have altered a pattern to fit me and I think I will sew it again, I do like to mark the bust girth, waist girth and hip girth, with lines perpendicular to the grain line, on all the pieces all the way around the body of the garment. That speeds up future alterations. I have also learned that I SHOULD come up with some conventions to mark the finished garment total circumference in each of these areas, and also the pattern-piece circumference inside the seam allowances, so if I am altering the pattern I have my starting info. But a pattern piece starts to get really crowded with information at a certain point.
One thing I would like to get better about is keeping the piece-matching notches on my pattern pieces as I am retracing them over and over again while I am in the muslin and alteration phase. How useful those are in the sewing process depends on what sort of curve is being sewn together, and how slinky my fabric is. Having the stitch line marked is so helpful if I need to add a notch when I am sewing a slinkier fabric - I can “walk” the seam lines to figure out where to put new notches,
Thank you very much for this lesson. I realise that I don't profit enough from all that is on the pattern and how easy it would be to write things on the paper. I use a book to write down if I change things, what size I used and if it fitted.
I learn a lot from you, thanks. Greetings from Holland.
I use a journal as well to record any changes I would make next time I sew that particular pattern. Otherwise my pattern pieces would be overfilled with information. I mark on my pattern 'see journal'. 🙂
Also, mark the RIGHT/WRONG pattern sides for cutting vs. sewing since they may be opposite. This drives me crazy BTW. It's done to save some yardage, yeah but unless it's Vicuña why bother since it makes it easier to make mistakes.
Thanks for the tips - I can't count the number of times I've opened up a me-made pattern and have to pull out a garment to remember what the hem was, or where I thought a gusset should go on the next round!
Are you good in making patterns
Another helpful video. I was wondering if you could make a video on creating a bodice block to fit your body.
The blouse or dress you are wearing in this video is just beautiful!!!! Is there a pattern for this garment? I would love to have it!!!!!! Thanks for taking time to let me know....I LOVE YOUR VIDEOS!!!!!!!
I found that the fabric stretch how many layers of fabric the kind of fabric and if you need to do anything to the fabric prior to using the pattern on the fabric can make a huge difference on that pattern sizing and since I never go with the patterns complete design I usually have to leave about a few extra inches just to be on the safe side and then resize it
I’ve also seen some patterns use the terminology (cut 1+1) when referring to cutting a pair.
As usual another great video. I always look forward to them. I have learned a lot by just watching. Now application is another thing I need to do. Btw, along with everyone else asking, is that a dress or blouse 👚 you're wearing and could we have the pattern name and number? Or is it a refurbished top?
Great video, as always! I absolutely love the neckline of your dress!👗 Would you kindly share a link for the pattern?
I was thinking the same thing. That neckline is gorgeous. Please share!
This is what i was searching the comments for!
I always mark if seam allowance is include and at what measurement. I hadn’t thought to number my pattern pieces! Though I have started marking “uses any sleeve pattern” so that I know I can use any of my basic sleeve patterns and haven’t messed with the armscye.
I do try to do as per your directive, but I'm lazy. You guessed it- I have problems working out what I did with the original.
Another great video! I have been considering purchasing, either an electric scissors, or electric rotary cutter for dense fabric (mud cloth especially). Do you use them and can you offer suggestions for which one would best suit fabric that is difficult to cut? Thanks much.
Great video! I love your dress 😍 That neck line is delicious. Are their shoulder pads?
I also like to date iterations of traced & adjusted patterns so I can cross reference with pictures of mockups and see which stage it was from. Really helpful with UFOs.
I never mark notches anymore. By the time I have overlocked (serged) or on busy patterns I can never find them again. I have also cut out patterns crossgrain if that is the only way to squeeze out the garment in the smallest amount of fabric. I also hack patterns all the time. My garments have still been relatively successful although I find the big four company patterns come out on the large side so sometimes I have to adjust. I don't recommend doing what I do though. I do it as my sewing time is limited and I just need to crack on. However I should write down what I hack as if I want to remake a pattern I cannot always remember what I did.
Is cutting a pair the same as mirrored? Thanks 😊
Basically Yes. To get 2 mirrored pieces you can use the same technique and then cut all the way around the pattern ☺
Hi,
Started to see after 35years
I don’t understand new patterns that don’t have seam line printed on pattern itself. Can someone please help me understand this.
I love your channel ❤️❤️❤️
Thank you so much for this. I am always confused with the "cut 2" as a pair. Particularly when cutting out sleeves I never felt confident enough. So I would cut one once on single layered fabric and then flip the pattern piece over to get the second sleeve. I get scared of cutting two left sleeve or 2 right sleeves. Is this correct? Or is there an easier way to make sure that cutting out sleeves you get a left and a right sleeve? Sorry for sounding confusing - I confuse myself sometimes and make things more difficult than they really are 😒 Love the idea of writing everything on the pattern piece even putting the stitching line on :)
Fold the fabric with the right sides together (or the wrong sides together), pin the pattern piece on and cut.
It is AUTOMATICALLY MIRRORED.
Your method of cut one, flip it over, and cut the second piece also works. But unless you are trying to match plaids or prints, or squeezing the last inch out of your fabric, it's not necessary.
Thank you so much for answering my problem! This as really helped me :)
Question: out of curiosity, what kind of sewing machine is the beautiful one above your sewing machine? I’m going to assume it’s an antique. Thanks!
Another brilliant video! Can I ask a question? When you use a commercial pattern, do you always copy it? I always just use the original pattern piece as it never occured to me to copy it!
I was taught to cut out and use, but I really love tracing because I'm more confident to fit (cut expand, add more, tape etc) on my paper. Her school is hugely useful. If you've never sewn or if you think (like me) you know a bit-you will learn so much.
@@SherylFZsmom The next thing I make, I will actually try tracing it first! I'll check out the school too!
@@SherylFZsmom absolutely agree..I love the VSS …learning so much…
Evelyn, do you only sew by patterns or do you free hand as well?
Anyone have a good/cheap source for big pattern paper? I find around my house I have letter sized white printer paper and I have printed/reused large paper but then you can't do markings. What is everyone finding/using to trace off patterns?
I use wrapping paper, because i have usually already cut the pattern to the largest size. Ive heard of people getting rolls of the medical paper, the kind that are used on those exam tables, they are pretty transparent. Good luck!
🌹
Ok. I'll stop being lazy and put on seam allowance. In my defense, I sewed a pattern this week that didn't show enough notches!
Hope your progressing
Instead of pair I write "cut 2 mirrored".
🇨🇦😃
Sorry, if you've been asked this a million times, but are you any relation to the other famous Evelyn Wood?