You good sir put out great info. Thank you.Thus far I have installed the same decoder as in the video in 1 of 4 shays. 3 to go. Should have done the motor an gear tune ups first. In my defence they were checked to make sure they were operational before I started. I am getting old but I'm not that off yet. 🤣Going through your video offerings again. Reviewing your tutorials gives me courage. This being said by an aging fellow that is schooled in electronics and have years of bench repair history. Thank you again for passing on your knowlege and DIY attitude. P.S. The layout is looking awesome. Kudos!
Update: Today I replaced the front and rear drive lines due to the cracked gear issue. even though the front had a more visable crack in 1 gear it was the rear that was causing the most movement jerk and the crack in the gear on it was not nearly as bad. It kinda warped one of the teeth and that caused a significant snag in the rotation. I did the front and rear separately testing inbetween. The lesser cracked gear caused the worst binding.Now I know looks can be decieving. Thanks again for your tutorials. 👍
Thanks for this tutorial. Just like you stated, I have a never used Shay new in the box with cracked gears. Hope you do one for the Climax, same deal NIB with cracked gears.
hello Sean - i’m a relative beginner but I’ve replaced parts on my four Shays - so I’ve been learning as I go. The trick I found when trying to replace the truck screws is to insert a short cut length of plastic drinking straw down into the truck - and then with the screw on the end of a magnetised screwdriver, enter that into the tube and you’ll find it doesn’t fall through the gap but locates perfectly
Oh and another way to shorten the hex drive shaft (for 15” curves) is to use a thin Dremel cut off disc (with goggles!) - then there is no need to dress the end with a file.
Sean - your theory about the thermal expansion of the drive shaft is a sound one. However, a more likely cause is the nylon material that Bachman selected for the bevel gear. Some nylons absorb moisture (hard to believe) and over time swell. Because the nylon cannot compress the shaft, the gear cracks starting at the I.D. of the hub. Often an allowance can be made for the swelling (it is very small) but in this case, the original fit on the driveshaft would be too loose and cause different problems? Great tutorial! Can't wait to watch the next of the series(s).
This takes some of the mystery out of this procedure. Have you used metal gear replacements from Northwest Shoreline? I bought a set and chickened out! Also,I have a Bachman HO bashed to On30 with the same cracked gear problem. Same process? Different part # s though? Thanks for the " show and tell"
I tried the NWSL gears, but you need a press to put them on. I tried putting them on with hand tools and bent the shaft. I've been using Bachmann's replacement shafts ever since. Never had an issue with the new driveshafts
Again thanks for this info!!! Could you apply super glue AFTER caps are installed?? Applying glue with a knife blade from above and below cap??? thx EDIT: I just checked my parts supply.....thinking Bachmann had sent me parts for my Shay not long after I bought it. Three bags of parts and shafts but ZERO bevel gears??? Any idea what this was about???thx
@@Seanmmvi That is what I do not get. Bachmann sent me the drive shafts minus the bevel gears!!! WHY...that fixes nothing and they were free....but why I do not understand. Thx
@@davevan8864mystery…🤔 did you ever find out what parts Bachmann did send you? Because, as you said, the lineshafts include the gears. Just curious! Greetings from Uk 🇬🇧
I look forward to Sean answering your question as well- all I would say (as a beginner to model railways, but with some mechanical nous) is having bought several wheel and gearsets for the ON30 Davenport gas mechanical (over the last year), two of those, still in the sealed packets, had split gears which does make me wonder if they really have sorted out their gear moulding / choice of plastic problem? I have two Shays - one which I have replaced both front and rear trucks (complete with lineshafts); the other I’m still waiting to repair. I also have an ON30 Climax which suffered from UJ failure …another common problem.
@@madeinyorkshire52Wow. I have had a near identical experience. I have one Shay disassembled and ready for new lineshafts. I'm bugging Bachmann Parts Dept as we speak, to see if they can inspect the parts before shipment.
@@afpilot from what I’ve been told by a very experienced railway modeller in the UK - the problems with these gears is a combination of things. The type of ‘plastic’ that is used; the injection moulding process (where the hole is actually moulded in - not drilled) leaves a moulding flow weakness; and when the gear is pressed onto a splined/serrated shaft, that puts local pressure on an already weakened gear. Age and hardening of the plastic does the rest!
The new gears are much larger than the old ones, they have a lot more substance to them. While probably not as prototypically correct, they are much stronger. I've had a shay with new gears for at least 6 years and they are still going strong.
@@Seanmmvi Tks Sean…do you think new Shay trucks I have bought from Bachmann over last year (I have bought three) will have had the newer “stronger” gears - or might they still be selling “old stock”?
![[กูเพิ่งซื้อมึงปิดหนี] 20 นาที ผมรีวิวเกมที่แย่ที่สุดในโลก CONCORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XhC-3q3Ii7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Finally got the parts. Your tip on tightening the gears was helpful as well. One axle was not meshing; now it is working great. Thanks again
You good sir put out great info. Thank you.Thus far I have installed the same decoder as in the video in 1 of 4 shays. 3 to go. Should have done the motor an gear tune ups first. In my defence they were checked to make sure they were operational before I started. I am getting old but I'm not that off yet. 🤣Going through your video offerings again. Reviewing your tutorials gives me courage. This being said by an aging fellow that is schooled in electronics and have years of bench repair history. Thank you again for passing on your knowlege and DIY attitude. P.S. The layout is looking awesome. Kudos!
Update: Today I replaced the front and rear drive lines due to the cracked gear issue. even though the front had a more visable crack in 1 gear it was the rear that was causing the most movement jerk and the crack in the gear on it was not nearly as bad. It kinda warped one of the teeth and that caused a significant snag in the rotation. I did the front and rear separately testing inbetween. The lesser cracked gear caused the worst binding.Now I know looks can be decieving. Thanks again for your tutorials. 👍
Hello !
Thanks to you, i just replaced by myself the two drivelines on the On30 2 trucks Shay.
Thanks for this tutorial. Just like you stated, I have a never used Shay new in the box with cracked gears. Hope you do one for the Climax, same deal NIB with cracked gears.
hello Sean - i’m a relative beginner but I’ve replaced parts on my four Shays - so I’ve been learning as I go. The trick I found when trying to replace the truck screws is to insert a short cut length of plastic drinking straw down into the truck - and then with the screw on the end of a magnetised screwdriver, enter that into the tube and you’ll find it doesn’t fall through the gap but locates perfectly
Oh and another way to shorten the hex drive shaft (for 15” curves) is to use a thin Dremel cut off disc (with goggles!) - then there is no need to dress the end with a file.
Thank you so much. My shay makes a clicking sound so you have given me a recipe to fix it.
Sean - your theory about the thermal expansion of the drive shaft is a sound one. However, a more likely cause is the nylon material that Bachman selected for the bevel gear. Some nylons absorb moisture (hard to believe) and over time swell. Because the nylon cannot compress the shaft, the gear cracks starting at the I.D. of the hub. Often an allowance can be made for the swelling (it is very small) but in this case, the original fit on the driveshaft would be too loose and cause different problems? Great tutorial! Can't wait to watch the next of the series(s).
Excellent video! Thank you.
Sean you are great !!!
Thank you so much, this is going help me so much.
Great!
This takes some of the mystery out of this procedure. Have you used metal gear replacements from Northwest Shoreline? I bought a set and chickened out! Also,I have a Bachman HO bashed to On30 with the same cracked gear problem. Same process? Different part # s though? Thanks for the " show and tell"
I tried the NWSL gears, but you need a press to put them on. I tried putting them on with hand tools and bent the shaft. I've been using Bachmann's replacement shafts ever since. Never had an issue with the new driveshafts
Again thanks for this info!!! Could you apply super glue AFTER caps are installed?? Applying glue with a knife blade from above and below cap??? thx
EDIT: I just checked my parts supply.....thinking Bachmann had sent me parts for my Shay not long after I bought it. Three bags of parts and shafts but ZERO bevel gears??? Any idea what this was about???thx
I suppose you could... It might look a little messier
They don't sell the bevel greats separate, only on the replacement driveshaft
@@Seanmmvi That is what I do not get. Bachmann sent me the drive shafts minus the bevel gears!!! WHY...that fixes nothing and they were free....but why I do not understand. Thx
@@davevan8864mystery…🤔 did you ever find out what parts Bachmann did send you? Because, as you said, the lineshafts include the gears. Just curious! Greetings from Uk 🇬🇧
Excellent tutorial. How can you be sure that the Bachmann replacement gears are not split? They are probably OEM, right?
I look forward to Sean answering your question as well- all I would say (as a beginner to model railways, but with some mechanical nous) is having bought several wheel and gearsets for the ON30 Davenport gas mechanical (over the last year), two of those, still in the sealed packets, had split gears which does make me wonder if they really have sorted out their gear moulding / choice of plastic problem? I have two Shays - one which I have replaced both front and rear trucks (complete with lineshafts); the other I’m still waiting to repair. I also have an ON30 Climax which suffered from UJ failure …another common problem.
@@madeinyorkshire52Wow. I have had a near identical experience. I have one Shay disassembled and ready for new lineshafts. I'm bugging Bachmann Parts Dept as we speak, to see if they can inspect the parts before shipment.
@@afpilot from what I’ve been told by a very experienced railway modeller in the UK - the problems with these gears is a combination of things. The type of ‘plastic’ that is used; the injection moulding process (where the hole is actually moulded in - not drilled) leaves a moulding flow weakness; and when the gear is pressed onto a splined/serrated shaft, that puts local pressure on an already weakened gear. Age and hardening of the plastic does the rest!
The new gears are much larger than the old ones, they have a lot more substance to them. While probably not as prototypically correct, they are much stronger. I've had a shay with new gears for at least 6 years and they are still going strong.
@@Seanmmvi Tks Sean…do you think new Shay trucks I have bought from Bachmann over last year (I have bought three) will have had the newer “stronger” gears - or might they still be selling “old stock”?
Fantastic video, but not sure I’m up to it. Do you do contract work on the Shay’s? I have 3 of them.
I do