I think you missunderstood what the forums were saying. Single wire alternators may have to be brought up to over 1000 rpm to excite the field. Once the field is excited, it will charge at lower rpms. You need to put a voltmeter across the battery to verify if the alternator is charging. You should see about 13 volts or higher at idle. Right now you seem to be using the parts cannon to resolve your problem. You may even have a current draw when the vehicle is turned off. That will keep the battery in a low state of charge. Time will tell if the battery was the problem.
Looks like you’re converted to 12 volts . The 6 volt system is Positive ground, if your 12 volt system is not also changed to negative ground and you jump it thinking negative ground the diodes in the alternator are blown immediately. One wrong move that way costs you an alternator. Once you get clear on 7:35 all that those alternators are the easiest to get, you could even carry a spare.
After the engine warms up, let it idle. Then have someone read the dc voltage on the battery as the engine runs. The dc voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 vdc. If it reads 12.5, the alternator is not charging. If 12.5, slowly increase engine rpm until you see at least 13.5vdc. This is the minimum rpm for the alternator to function. Once you have 13.5, turn on your headlights, interior fan and any other dc load and recheck the voltage. If the 13.5 vdc is maintained, adjust the carb idle screw to maintain that rpm.
Depending on the engine crank pulley sizing, that SHOULD charge at about 1000 rpm engine speed at idle. . If not, change the alternator pulley. Or you have another electrical issue. They do make special geared alternators for generator/alternator conversion for older cars, but they are expensive. Changing to a smaller pulley on the alternator generally works
Has this truck's electrical system been upgraded to an alternator? Originally they used generators. The battery not charging at low rpm is consistent with an old style generator.
I had the same alternator on my '50 F-2 and never had an issue.
I think you missunderstood what the forums were saying. Single wire alternators may have to be brought up to over 1000 rpm to excite the field. Once the field is excited, it will charge at lower rpms. You need to put a voltmeter across the battery to verify if the alternator is charging. You should see about 13 volts or higher at idle.
Right now you seem to be using the parts cannon to resolve your problem. You may even have a current draw when the vehicle is turned off. That will keep the battery in a low state of charge. Time will tell if the battery was the problem.
Looks like you’re converted to 12 volts .
The 6 volt system is Positive ground, if your 12 volt system is not also changed to negative ground and you jump it thinking negative ground the diodes in the alternator are blown immediately.
One wrong move that way costs you an alternator.
Once you get clear on 7:35 all that those alternators are the easiest to get, you could even carry a spare.
After the engine warms up, let it idle. Then have someone read the dc voltage on the battery as the engine runs. The dc voltage should read 13.5 to 14.5 vdc. If it reads 12.5, the alternator is not charging. If 12.5, slowly increase engine rpm until you see at least 13.5vdc. This is the minimum rpm for the alternator to function. Once you have 13.5, turn on your headlights, interior fan and any other dc load and recheck the voltage. If the 13.5 vdc is maintained, adjust the carb idle screw to maintain that rpm.
Wrong, the advantage of alternators is that they charge at low RPM. An alternator will put out a fourth to a third of its amperage at 700 RPM (idle).
Depending on the engine crank pulley sizing, that SHOULD charge at about 1000 rpm engine speed at idle. . If not, change the alternator pulley.
Or you have another electrical issue.
They do make special geared alternators for generator/alternator conversion for older cars, but they are expensive. Changing to a smaller pulley on the alternator generally works
Has this truck's electrical system been upgraded to an alternator? Originally they used generators.
The battery not charging at low rpm is consistent with an old style generator.
@@keithcanfield3251 Yes upgraded to 12 volt and we just put in a whole new wiring harness.
@@cmlloyd1969 That makes sense. I love those old Ford flatheads.
Change the pulley on the alternator to a smaller one.
You have an ammeter you should have been watching it. There was no excuse to let the battery get that low.
@@monk43012 True. I'll have to keep a better eye on it.
BRUH! HOW COME YOU HAVENT PUT MASTER BATTIERY CUT OFF SWITCH? LESS HEADACHES😂
HOW COME YOU HAVENT PUT MASTER BATTIERY CUT OFF SWITCH? LESS HEADACHES😂
BRUH! HOW COME YOU HAVENT PUT MASTER BATTIERY CUT OFF SWITCH? LESS HEADACHES😂 BUBBA GUMP GOING BE HOLLERN FIRE🔥🔥🔥🔥😂
BRUH! HOW COME YOU HAVENT PUT MASTER BATTIERY CUT OFF SWITCH? LESS HEADACHES😂
BRUH! HOW COME YOU HAVENT PUT MASTER BATTIERY CUT OFF SWITCH? LESS HEADACHES😂 BUBBA GUMP GOING BE HOLLERN FIRE🔥🔥🔥🔥😂