It looks amazing. I am always fascinated by people like yourself who constantly look for ways to solve riddles presented by any build. You sir are an inspiration. PS. on the riv nut thread stripping front...too much lever arm leverage of the two large arms of the riv nut tool deforms the riv nut to the point the threads distort. Work around is not to deform the riv nut as much by reducing the amount of arm displacement/pressure of the tool. A further trick so your riv nuts are very secure is....apply a very small mix of JB Weld 2-part quick set epoxy to both the outside of the riv nut and interior of the hole ID and then quickly fasten the riv nut in place with the large tool. Yes, a bit fiddly but when you add this step, the epoxy will keep the riv nut in place with less riv nut deformation of the big tool which preserves thread integrity.
@@hightech-lowlife Thank you HT\\LL for this awesome content... May I ask how fast will this new build go; perhaps I missed you saying top speed... Waiting as fast as I can to see what's next...
@@gi169 Thanks so much for watching man! I honestly don't know yet 😂 I still have to tune the controller, I'm guessing in the 65-70mph range, but we will see once I'm finished (should be done within two weeks or so). I will do a speed test for sure though 👍 My digi camo bike with a QS205 did 54mph and that was only about 5KW, this is in the 20-30KW range, so it should go quite a bit faster than that, although it does weigh more. Once you start going over 40, wind resistance is the greatest factor to contend with.
Thanks so much Diogo, I'm not aware of any lights that run off such high voltage? All the LED lights I know of use 5 or 12, but there may be some out there that have a built-in converter 👍
Thanks man!! Most of it will be covered, but I may do clear sidepanels to show it off more, originally I was just thinking subtle but I really do like how it looks!
@@thelavalattergamer6242 It's the only way to do it really, just keep trying after failing until things start to get even a bit easier and better, it's just a slow grind that if you don't get discouraged it's worth it 👍
That big ass motor and huge battery gives me the James May fizz.... It's looking Beautiful and I'd like to start building bikes myself but I know I'll probably never want to part w/ them, I'd be the ebike guy but I'd be more like a crazy cat lady, I'd keep all of them no matter how much I need to get rid of them. LoL The more videos of yours I watch the more and more I want a welder... I see people building bikes w/o them but I don't like the idea of buying a frame for $300-$400 whenever I can make one myself for $100 and it would be exactly what I want, it's just scary to invest a bunch of money not knowing if I'll get a return from it because of myself. 😂
Thanks so much man! You gotta start building, even if you keep all of them and you don't even up making money the skills you will acquire can help you and to me it's worth it just for that alone. Just get a cheap welder and start there, shouldn't be too much of an investment and try it out!
@@hightech-lowlife - I've been looking at welders at Harbor Freight and some of the cheaper ones only do MIG or TIG but I was thinking of going Flux Core because it's cheaper and easier to use... Especially when I'm just starting out, I've done some welding before but only a few times and that was a long time ago.
@@xpndblhero5170 Yeah I would suggest flux core or stick to start out, then you don't need to invest in gas or anything like that and still be able to make very usable parts 👍 of course it won't look as nice as mig or tig but just grinding and paint will make it so it doesn't really matter.
Hello. Very very nice work!!! I like the gold bar, it comes out nicely!!! Where have you bought those tires? I have the other frame and got also a bit off play on the rear arm. Greeting from Belgium :)
Hello Wim! Thanks so much, I appreciate it! I got these tires on eBay quite a while ago, I think they're still available though. If you ever want to take up the slack there are a lot of methods and you don't even need a welder 👍 Thanks man!
If you are really in that gold rush, you should buy one of the most expensive gold pack battery which got the highest quality and performance on planet earth ever. You'll be able to beat everyone so far. Just make sure to never leave your vehicle unattended. Is the controller with the cables out even splash water proof? I got the same battery with 72V/70Ah/150A (300A) discharge for my dual motor harley.
Oh yeah, I've seen those batteries, there was a bit of inspiration from that 🛸 batteries are always gold in my mind. If you want to know more about the philosophy behind why gold is cool to me, I describe it in a lot of detail in my video series on The Moose. 👍 The bike is splash proof, but I will not ride it in the rain. Even the bikes that are "waterproof" tend to get leaks and problems that I'd rather just avoid entirely. That's awesome man, are we talkin' a real harley build here? I'm sure you've seen rich rebuilds then. If you have vids or pics I'd like to check it out. 🍻
Thanks man!! Yeah it really depends, I think for most people 205 is all the power you'd ever need - it's really not until you're pushing 300A + that the 273 is worth it because it can handle a ton more heat, at of course the expense of weight. This bike is already going to be crazily heavy so I figured the 273 is better suited for this application 👍 The bigger you go the more expensive everything is though, so again for most people 205 is a great motor.
@@hightech-lowlife Thanks bro yeah l have a 205 5t v3 just need to get a battery and then l can put it together.l also have a 150a Sabvoton from what I've seen l think 50mph is possible with a good battery.What do think you way more than l do.Thanks for the reply
Thank you! Not sure yet, I'm hoping to hit past 65mph (104km), ideally 70mph, it really depends on how much power it takes to go those speeds, regardless it should go for a very long ways though 👍
Check your Instagram direct messages, in there I sent you some good suggestions … also an easy solution to the swing-arm wobbliness… there is a gap between the pinchers and the tongue. These nylon washers fill that gap keeping the swingarm feeling snug while at the same time being somewhat compressible so not to put undue stress on the parts when in a turn or going over rough uneven terrain. The size is M12 x 30mm x 1.5mm nylon washers sold on eBay. I thought I was gonna have to completely redo the linkage and this solution fixed it right up.
Thank you, I'll check my messages 👍I tried washers last time but it wasn't enough to keep things in line, if things are still not ideal then I'll add the washers too! Thanks!!
@@hightech-lowlife if I remember you had the old design with the rubber insert around the bolt instead of the new design which has actual bearings set in a recess around each side of the tongue Thru bolt.
@@hightech-lowlife Nylon is much stiffer than rubber and should solve the wash out compliancy issue you had with rubber as Erik suggested. Analogy is automotive applications where nylon is used for less compliancy versus rubber which much lower durometer.
the gold doesnt look gaudy it looks like some NASA shit, they're always using gold foil. I would have just cut a shim from a coke can for the swing arm bolt.
I love it. Can't wait to see the next update.
Thanks man! 🍻
It looks amazing. I am always fascinated by people like yourself who constantly look for ways to solve riddles presented by any build. You sir are an inspiration.
PS. on the riv nut thread stripping front...too much lever arm leverage of the two large arms of the riv nut tool deforms the riv nut to the point the threads distort. Work around is not to deform the riv nut as much by reducing the amount of arm displacement/pressure of the tool.
A further trick so your riv nuts are very secure is....apply a very small mix of JB Weld 2-part quick set epoxy to both the outside of the riv nut and interior of the hole ID and then quickly fasten the riv nut in place with the large tool. Yes, a bit fiddly but when you add this step, the epoxy will keep the riv nut in place with less riv nut deformation of the big tool which preserves thread integrity.
Thanks so much Luke! Much appreciated, cool tip with the rivnuts too I'll take it into account in further applications 👍 Thank you!!
Best DIY E moto/ bike CHANNEL ON TH-cam !! 💪🎖💪
Thanks so much man!! 🤘Once I'm done with my cafe racer build I have a new ebike in the works that will be most epic 🍻
@@hightech-lowlife 💪⚡️💪
So far it looks, terrifyingly, awesome...
Thanks so much man!
@@hightech-lowlife Thank you HT\\LL for this awesome content... May I ask how fast will this new build go; perhaps I missed you saying top speed... Waiting as fast as I can to see what's next...
@@gi169 Thanks so much for watching man! I honestly don't know yet 😂 I still have to tune the controller, I'm guessing in the 65-70mph range, but we will see once I'm finished (should be done within two weeks or so). I will do a speed test for sure though 👍 My digi camo bike with a QS205 did 54mph and that was only about 5KW, this is in the 20-30KW range, so it should go quite a bit faster than that, although it does weigh more. Once you start going over 40, wind resistance is the greatest factor to contend with.
nice!!
Thanks man!!
It’s going to be sick!
Thanks so much!!
@@hightech-lowlife you’re welcome man!
The lights you can use led headlight and tail light which support up to 90v so you won't need a dc-dc converter. Amazing build
Thanks so much Diogo, I'm not aware of any lights that run off such high voltage? All the LED lights I know of use 5 or 12, but there may be some out there that have a built-in converter 👍
Nice color choice
Thanks man!!
Nicely builded Motorbike. 👍
Thanks so much for watching!
looking good!....
Thank you!
Looking good. The Gold is 👌
Thanks man! Solid gold 😎
Looks good to me!
Thanks man!!
Sick build the gold looks the nuts love it 🤘
Thanks so much man, can't wait until you get your battery you're going to have a blast 🙌
That gold is money! I don't think it's too much at all.
Thanks man!! Most of it will be covered, but I may do clear sidepanels to show it off more, originally I was just thinking subtle but I really do like how it looks!
Looks great....
Thanks man!!
look dope
Thanks man! Almost there ⚡
I love this so mutch it looks so better than last time and where did you learn this skills
Thanks man!! Just mostly failing over and over until you get better at things 😂
@@hightech-lowlife at least you getting better skills
@@thelavalattergamer6242 It's the only way to do it really, just keep trying after failing until things start to get even a bit easier and better, it's just a slow grind that if you don't get discouraged it's worth it 👍
That big ass motor and huge battery gives me the James May fizz.... It's looking Beautiful and I'd like to start building bikes myself but I know I'll probably never want to part w/ them, I'd be the ebike guy but I'd be more like a crazy cat lady, I'd keep all of them no matter how much I need to get rid of them. LoL The more videos of yours I watch the more and more I want a welder... I see people building bikes w/o them but I don't like the idea of buying a frame for $300-$400 whenever I can make one myself for $100 and it would be exactly what I want, it's just scary to invest a bunch of money not knowing if I'll get a return from it because of myself. 😂
Thanks so much man! You gotta start building, even if you keep all of them and you don't even up making money the skills you will acquire can help you and to me it's worth it just for that alone. Just get a cheap welder and start there, shouldn't be too much of an investment and try it out!
@@hightech-lowlife - I've been looking at welders at Harbor Freight and some of the cheaper ones only do MIG or TIG but I was thinking of going Flux Core because it's cheaper and easier to use... Especially when I'm just starting out, I've done some welding before but only a few times and that was a long time ago.
@@xpndblhero5170 Yeah I would suggest flux core or stick to start out, then you don't need to invest in gas or anything like that and still be able to make very usable parts 👍 of course it won't look as nice as mig or tig but just grinding and paint will make it so it doesn't really matter.
hi does it matter putting the larger axle nuts on first then the narrow axle nut on the outside?
I've tried both ways, doesn't seem to matter - just make sure they don't fall off 👍
i think its a bit too much gold rn ut with the side panels itll be sick!
Thanks man!!
lunar module gold covered in shadowy moon tracks… call it “lunar modulation”
Thanks! Yes, definitely reminds me of some NASA creations 👍
Hello.
Very very nice work!!!
I like the gold bar, it comes out nicely!!!
Where have you bought those tires?
I have the other frame and got also a bit off play on the rear arm.
Greeting from Belgium :)
Hello Wim! Thanks so much, I appreciate it! I got these tires on eBay quite a while ago, I think they're still available though. If you ever want to take up the slack there are a lot of methods and you don't even need a welder 👍 Thanks man!
Bro what's the material used in frame? Hight tensile or medium?
Beryllium 👍
If you are really in that gold rush, you should buy one of the most expensive gold pack battery which got the highest quality and performance on planet earth ever. You'll be able to beat everyone so far. Just make sure to never leave your vehicle unattended. Is the controller with the cables out even splash water proof? I got the same battery with 72V/70Ah/150A (300A) discharge for my dual motor harley.
Oh yeah, I've seen those batteries, there was a bit of inspiration from that 🛸 batteries are always gold in my mind. If you want to know more about the philosophy behind why gold is cool to me, I describe it in a lot of detail in my video series on The Moose. 👍
The bike is splash proof, but I will not ride it in the rain. Even the bikes that are "waterproof" tend to get leaks and problems that I'd rather just avoid entirely. That's awesome man, are we talkin' a real harley build here? I'm sure you've seen rich rebuilds then. If you have vids or pics I'd like to check it out. 🍻
I'm building a 2000w do you any suggestions on a battery
It depends on what you need, I would try to get the biggest pack I could physically fit in the allocated frame space. 🍻
Aught to get good range.
Should go pretty far 😂
You just get better and better bro.Hey what do you like better the 273 or 205 5t v3.I know one thing the 273 is alot heavier imo.
I got a 205 5t and i like it alot. Not to fast.(60km/h) But alot off power it powerweely's!!!
And lighter is good for longer riding.
Greeting
Thanks man!! Yeah it really depends, I think for most people 205 is all the power you'd ever need - it's really not until you're pushing 300A + that the 273 is worth it because it can handle a ton more heat, at of course the expense of weight. This bike is already going to be crazily heavy so I figured the 273 is better suited for this application 👍 The bigger you go the more expensive everything is though, so again for most people 205 is a great motor.
205 is also great!
@@hightech-lowlife Thanks bro yeah l have a 205 5t v3 just need to get a battery and then l can put it together.l also have a 150a Sabvoton from what I've seen l think 50mph is possible with a good battery.What do think you way more than l do.Thanks for the reply
@@racerx2095 You will easily hit 50+ if you get a battery that can output 150A, probably more like 60-65! 👍
And what will be the maximum speed of the e bike?
At a speed of 100 km h how many kilometers can you drive
Thank you! Not sure yet, I'm hoping to hit past 65mph (104km), ideally 70mph, it really depends on how much power it takes to go those speeds, regardless it should go for a very long ways though 👍
Where are you going to sit?
You must not have seen the other videos in this series 😂 I promise there is a seat 👍
Just spray paint that sensor connector “mat black”
Thank you! I will consider it, I'll come up with something 👍
Im torn between making that bike look serious or just painting the battery to look like one giant Duracell 9v 😁
Why not both 😂- I promise it will look serious in the end 👍
Check your Instagram direct messages, in there I sent you some good suggestions … also an easy solution to the swing-arm wobbliness… there is a gap between the pinchers and the tongue. These nylon washers fill that gap keeping the swingarm feeling snug while at the same time being somewhat compressible so not to put undue stress on the parts when in a turn or going over rough uneven terrain. The size is M12 x 30mm x 1.5mm nylon washers sold on eBay. I thought I was gonna have to completely redo the linkage and this solution fixed it right up.
Thank you, I'll check my messages 👍I tried washers last time but it wasn't enough to keep things in line, if things are still not ideal then I'll add the washers too! Thanks!!
@@hightech-lowlife if I remember you had the old design with the rubber insert around the bolt instead of the new design which has actual bearings set in a recess around each side of the tongue Thru bolt.
@@erikjonromnes That's correct, the rubber bushings were way too forgiving, like a rubberband!
@@hightech-lowlife Nylon is much stiffer than rubber and should solve the wash out compliancy issue you had with rubber as Erik suggested. Analogy is automotive applications where nylon is used for less compliancy versus rubber which much lower durometer.
@@lukewalker1051 Thanks man! I totally get it, as of right now though it's a solid as a rock 👍
the gold doesnt look gaudy it looks like some NASA shit, they're always using gold foil. I would have just cut a shim from a coke can for the swing arm bolt.
Thanks so much man! Oh yeah I took care of it with some filler welds 👍