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I have an idea for these. Put coil in chessboard. LED light inside frosted glass / resin chess pieces. Would be a cool effect to see the pieces turn off as they're eliminated and removed from the chess board.
Get some plastic reusable ice cubes and put them inside and reseal the cubes. Put the coil under a drink coaster. When you set your glass on the coaster, the ice cubes light up.
Would be great for modelling - put the coil in the bas of a building and the put lights where you need without having to run tiny wires. Or use a base and separate vehicle lights.
I was thinking scale RC Ships myself. For things like mast and exterior lighting things that it's a bit harder to hide the wiring for or if burns out is obnoxious to replace and too much weight up high can be a problem.
I'm just about to build 1:600 scale model of Star Trek Original Series Enterprise.. You can buy a lighting kit for it, but it's messy and expensive. These would do the lighting job perfectly for running lights and window lighting me thinks as the coil could live in the saucer section where most of the effects are needed..
A project idea I have will need a lot more LEDs. Spread them out in a grid in the ground outside (porch / garden etc). Move around with the wireless coil and see them lightup with your route. Can be used in RC car racing tracks aswell, where the rc cars carry a small wirless coil, lighning up the track wherever they go.
The XKT-333 has the pinout of a common MOSFET, but possibly optimised for this application. The 6-pin chip appears to be generating a fixed frequency output based on the resistors, as there appears to be no feedback.
@@bigclivedotcom That's it - a pretty simple circuit really, MOSFET driven by an oscillator with an LC circuit - I've redone the reverse engineering here th-cam.com/video/jdc_0r5pJPc/w-d-xo.html - but would be great to see a Big Clive video doing it properly :)
Would make much better Christmas tree lights as the coil could be in a stem and the leds just prinkle onto the tree. no more wire mess when putting the tree up.
“No more wire mess when putting the tree up” Sadly, with the distance those can be from the coil before dimming greatly, you would have potentially more of a wire mess due to the coils themselves and then the wires to power that unless you make/find a circuit and use battery power that you can hide away easier. If not, you’ll have much more wiring to deal with. It’s a great idea and good job buddy for the video. It was fantastic. I appreciate it!
This would work well as a puzzle prop for one of those escape rooms.... If you placed an led in a translucent 3d printed gem, you could embed the coil into a chalice or something so that when the gem is placed in it, it will light up. You could even monitor the current of the coil circuit to trigger some door latch or something once you've placed enough gems in the chalice. Since the leds don't draw that much current, you might need a few before you could reliably detect it, but that could be part of the puzzle!
Furhermore, you could have several gems with only a few of them having "magical properties". You'd use some "magic harmonizer" to light up the gems that will allow you to progress.
put a blacklight LED so that when you place it on the correct spot, it reveals hidden text. what, me? noooo i've totally not been learning electrical engineering just to design escape rooms..
In Japan, back in 1996 there were this antena cap with LED at the top, kids love it at the time. When they receive a call the led start to flash or blink.
Can the LEDs be water sealed? If so you could do a snow globe with the coil at the bottom of the globe. The only thing to work out would be what fluid would be weight neutral so the LEDs float around evenly inside.
That's a really good idea! I think that the liquid doesn't have to be necessarily weight neutral. Maybe they could also move around, maaaaybe with the help of a mini pumper
I always thought that LED Pool Lighting (Underwater) should use an Inductive Coil. In this way, the Lighting Module could be completely sealed in Resin, with absolutely no wiring, and no chance of water ingress to destroy the LED Light Unit. I have already had to replace one expensive LED Underwater Light - due to water ingress.
I did this with my pool. Using high brightness blue COB LED's and an inductive heater driver on the dirt side of the pool. I embedded magnets where the LED would stick to the inside of the pool. Works quite well.
I have an old blower wheel from an air conditioner. I have considered mounting it on bearings on a pole in my backyard as a form of yard art. I have considered mounting LEDs to it as well so the spinning motion makes them blink. It would be interesting to see if they would blink as a magnet is moved past them.
As far as projects go, I really want to cast these into dice and then cast the wireless loop into a dice rolling tray. This way, when you roll the dice they glow! (bonus points if the LED shines out the high-side).
3:37 That's exactly what it should be, in reality the chip is pulsing Vcc into the coil when filtered by the LC circuit the higher order harmonics of the square wave are destroyed and an ugly, ringy, half-cycle sine wave remains. You're pretty much spot on with your reverse engineering!
As mentioned on other comments cast them inside of resin. One cool idea comes to mind, of making set of dice that light up when you throw them on the dice container, though this would need to be worked with some dice manufacturer to get balance just right to it to work.
make a lava lamp . where the lava are the LED's , make the led's water proof. and place the led in water and put a water pump inside so that the leds float in water from bottom to top or vise versa. place the electric coil at the bottom . this would be a beautiful project :)
Over 25 years ago I had a Nokia (6210 I think??) you could change the stumpy antenna for an after market one with a multi LED set up that would flash when you was about to receive a call or text or make a call. I was always amazed that they would work with no external connections.
These + some fiber optic threads would be perfect for miniatures. Instead of using the LEDs in the eyes or what ever, put the LEDs in the base of the minis and use fiber optic threads that go down to the LEDs in the base. You'll get brighter lights, and you can mix/match fiber cables for different colors thread them around the minis a bit better. Just print the minis hollow and in multiple parts where you can use a tiny dremel bit to make channels for the fiber optic cables.
@@HeronMarkedBlade-ef7zz Thank you. I was looking at some of the larger 24v coils, looks like the LEDs are self regulating. But with a bunch of coils on a TTRPG tile board, you can embed these LEDs into all kinds of things. Glowing lava, fire, torches, sconces, and so much more. Got a dungeon? Turn the room lights low and use the actual light from the sconces and torches to show what is and isn't in low light and total darkness. Just use some diffusers to spread the light out.
I’m not getting a new one ☝️ I’m going out of the house 🏠 I’m pretty 😍 and it looks pretty 😍 and the other is like 👍 I just saw a post and a few other pictures I have a few days to do you want it but it’s just like 👍 but it’s like 👍 but I’m sure it will do that I have no clue 🕵️♂️ I’m just not in it and I’m looking
My first thought was light bright. Since they can be placed in any space within the parameters you gave, that means you could make a 3d light bright setup that goes above, below, and all around the coil.
You might not want to use a metal ruler while testing the range of inductive power. It's definitely going to influence the electromagnetic field. For the same reason that an electromagnet has an iron core with a coil around it.
VERY intriguing. So could we theoretically hide the copper coils in say, signage, and then have the LEDS permanently lighting it? Without the need for wired electricity.
Wires are way cheaper than using inductors. Also the complexity and cost is just so much higher and efficiency is much lower. The science has been around since the fist transformer was invented back in the 1800s.
@@gregkramer5588 Thanks for your response. After a bit of research I realised that I should have known better than to assume this was some cutting edge discovery.
If you change the capacitor on some of the wireless LED you can change the frequency of the tuned circuit, by driving the charging coil with different frequencies you can choose which LEDs come on and when. You will need a wide span on frequencies because LC circuits have a wide bandwidth.
Embed them in a block of clear resin, so that people can see them floating around in there without any wires. Then you can just hide the wireless "charger" under a table or something.
@@simonwilson7581 The fact that they are wireless is emphasized because they are floating around in a block of resin. Having them laying in a corner somewhere people would probably not think too much about it, as they might just assume they have some tiny wires or batteries connected. With resin people can clearly see that none of them are connected and that you can't grab the LED's to change a micro battery.
You could use it as a lighting scheme for a model train layout. But it might interfere with the DCC controllers. More experimentation should be conducted near the train layout.
The best thing about these is that they're wireless. So, the best project would showcase this. Can you figure out a way to make them levitate, float, or rotate in orbit while self-illumating? That would look magical!
Thank you for the hint. The Qi standard negotiate the power with the phone, i.e. 5, 10, or 15 Watt. Also, it detect the presence of metallic objects that can short the electromagnetic field. The wireless LEDs are a barebone circuit, they don't reply to the inquiries of the charger, which therefore turns off. You can build a simpler, crude driver for the coil you use to power the LED, with a 555 wired as an astable multivibrator, and a power transistor driving the coil. Try to use the Qi base frequency of 140 KHz, which is the best compromise for minimising coil losses. Thank you for showing this. Note that the coil you have built to drive the wireless LEDs, is a crude LW low power transmitter, which can disable long wave radio reception within the house.
could you increase the field potentecy by putting it in a microwave? could you cut a hole in the wire mesh on the microwave door and make it a directed microwave beam and power those things or other things at a distance?
Question, how did you learn about this type of stuff? Aside from going to college for it, do you recommend any resources that I can purchase/watch/check out to gain further knowledge about LEDs and the other things you spoke of, understanding the whole process of what you're explaining, and getting a grasp on electronics like this? I've always been very interested from an outside perspective, but have never known how or where to dive in - I really appreciate any recommendation you have!
You can even go easier than that. A simple "Joule Thief" circuit is able to power a coil, and get some distance powering an LED with your own hand wound coil attached to the LED leads. Ive done it before using a single AA battery, and it works a charm. You could build your own "joule thief" circuit, OR harvest one out of a 1 dollar solar garden light, remove the LED, and attach a coil to where the LED used to be. I've done it both ways, and it works.
The RX coils output sine waveform, looks flat on one side, because the flat area is where it's sinking current into the LED and the LED is forward conducting. So technically 'yes' the waveform is upside down, but only from the perspective of driving the LED with a possitive voltage, else it's the same as driving a reversed LED with a negative voltage. Also you are correct that the phone chargers don't output all the time and do handshake and ping pulses(as well as tell the TX coil how hard to drive itself so the RX coil sees a reasonable voltage), another thing they do is FOD(foreign object detection) to make sure they aren't sinking their power into something conductive nearby other than the phone.
genius idea... I think you need to find the right liquid that will provide neutral buoyancy. Also if the liquid is conductive.. you may need to dip each led into a clear epoxy coating to avoid shorting out. Then a slow circulating pump to provide agitation to the liquid. I would also suggest a larger sized globe to keep proportions looking nice.
You could make a real life "hot/cold" detection system with the coil planted somewhere and a "key" that lights up as it gets closer in proximity to the coil.
Do not use a metal ruler for measuring in this case it messes with the magnetic fields and might even amplify or strengthen the magnetic fields which makes the measurement far from accurate
Precisely, a steel ruler may connect the magnetic field of the induction coil way beyond the coil's plane. An induction coil attached to the oscilloscope could measure this.
As a guitar builder, my first thought was to cast them in a resin river up the middle of a fretboard. I'm already incorporating resin art into my designs but the interface required to power these doesn't seem like it will work the way I'd initially hoped. Maybe with some more brainstorming I can think of something cool.
wait. so maybe the E strings could be the coil? maybe you could just run a jumper wire between the two E string tuning machines, then the bridge connects at the bottom, so otherwise wireless.
I need to buy some of these and put them in 3dprint gemstones, either clear filament or resin and make myself a desk ornament with a dragon treasure or something. I guess these pieces would be great for some kind of board game, especially if you can get them with different frequency response.
I would encase them in clear resin with little folds like raisins, then put them in a bottle of fizzy water, and coil below or on the side of the bottle and watch them rise and fall showing the model of cavitation and boyancy.
Not sure if this would disrupt the signal but what you surrounded them in clear acrylic so they could work under water...IE: In Drink/ glass and coil inside a coaster, aquariums & place coil out side near Filter, pool & floating battery to power lights.
embed the LEDs in something that looks like a gem stone, balance their weight so they are neutrally buoyant in mineral oil, mount the coil to the outside of a snow globe, fill the globe with the gem/LEDs and mineral oil, mount the globe to the end of a staff with all the electronics hidden in the top of the shaft. bonus points, program various flash patterns, figure out a way to get some LEDs to respond to different flash paterns so you can have some flashing out of sync with others.
I was thinking just this. I'm wondering if the different colours respond to different frequencies some how? then you'd just need a coil for each colour, hooked up to an ICU of some sort
@@frankcooke1692 Essentially you would need a crossover on the coil so it would be a bandpass filter. When the frequency outside the range of the filter, it won't pass frequency. Obviously things will get bigger. I think that to scale up the project, lets say to a 10 ft VU meter, it would be better to use an old colour organ where the controller has multiple outputs triggered by frequency and then route those to the different LED colours, but then that takes away some of the cool aspect.
Many years ago I made a Gandalf costume for Halloween and Cons. I had a plain ol' staff, nothing fancy (per the book)...but it could throw a blinding light. I charged and set off the flash at will just by holding the staff. Nobody else could make it work. Made a lot of money at bars, sometimes even getting first place over the "hot chicks" wearing almost nothing. Dismantled a cheap flash camera, packed the needed guts into as small a package as I could. Hollowed out a place in the staff to slide it into and sealed it back in with wood putty. Nothing showed but a bit of the lens. I ran the wiring down small grooves to the "handle" area, again covered with wood putty. 4 copper rings hammered into the wood and soldered to the wires. Battery pack strapped to my arm, up my sleeve. I'm wearing a ring on my pinky, a ring on my middle finger. They are wired to the battery pack, no-finger gloves to hide the wires across my palm. The two lower copper rings on the staff are set to match my hand and those rings...the flash is charged. Two more copper rings for a ring on my thumb to touch and short across...sets off the flash. You touch it wrong, instead of a flash...it goes off in your hand, ZAP! Which is what happens if I charge it and then leave it and someone else picks it up. Don't touch a wizards staff, you fool! Still have it sitting here in a corner.
@@Todd.T I'm no engineer but I've been reasearching building speakers so have some familiarity with bandpasses and crossovers. As to how frequency and voltage relate i'm a bit sketchy. But the different coloured LEDs should have different 'responses' I could manipulate?? Also.. how would I go if I just smashed the door in of some microwaves? Would that basically power them? This is for research purposes only... I'm not going to try that.......
@@yourhandlehere1 This is sort of similiar to what I tried to do with a hat once. But more recently, so I think the batteries were a bit more compact, and you can just pick them off the shelf at K-Mart. And RGB programmable strip lights are pretty cheap too. Still couldn't fit it. Could go an extra step and seperate the cells, but that seems like a fire hazard. Would probably work with a wizard's hat or top hat.
My first thought is to use them during Astrophotography sessions. We need very dim lights (usually red) so we can preserve our night vision. I'd put the lights near my focuser knobs, EQ mount hand controller, Inrervalometer, tripod legs, chair and various other places I want to not bump while taking pictures and navigating around my picture taking site. It's common to take pictures from just after dark until almost sun rise. Another use is night lights from bedroom to bathroom for adults and todlers. They'd be useful in automobiles as dim indicator lights at various times. Thanks for the video and for sharing how to make them as a DIY project.
after the first 30 seconds (after you did a little more closeup to the LEDs) my instant thought was "what a shame- and senseless waste of copper"... every LED base with a coil... as if those guys who do them would have discovered inductive current... but maybe i am wrong, and if they just were wired would use up more copper... but you still have to have the wiring and the "coil" around them for supplying them with power
3:31 - The signal on the coil is a half-sine wave - Because the drive circuit is a "Class E" type. In this topology, there is only one N-CH MOSFET that pulls the current from the coil, and the current is pushed back by the inductance of the coil itself and a resonating capacitor in parallel to the coil. The result is a push-pull current through the coil, but with only 1 MOSFET transistor. This is the cheapest drive circuit. The downside is that this circuit has to be tuned for a certain frequency, unlike regular push-pull drivers (half-bridge). Check for more explanation on Class-E on the web.
This. I don't recognize the part numbers, but the pinout and application looks absolutely like a MOSFET output. Which in turn means the 6-pin device is, probably not any kind of controller, though possibly; it's most likely an adjustable squarewave oscillator. In the past I've used parts like LTC6990, adjustable silicon oscillator; in effect a nicer version of a 555 (less versatile, easier to use for simple applications). The pinout doesn't match so it might be a similar part from someone else.
Correct - the big chip is just a MOSFET the 6 pin chip is an XKT001. I've fixed up the reverse engineering in the DIY video: th-cam.com/video/jdc_0r5pJPc/w-d-xo.html
I got some of these, I didn't realise how dense they are! I was able to get one to float by sticking a big piece of styrofoam to it, but I'm not sure how many you could have in a jar and still be able to see the lights.
Suggestion for use: I want something like this for my restaurant. I’m planning to use something similar for guests to pick up when they arrive. It would be a glass or similar clear item that changes color for alerts. One color when their table is ready for them, another to alert them of which table is theirs, maybe a last color to inform them of when a dish is done being cooked and is being plated up and in the way. I want novelties that no other restaurant has or has ever tried.
Suggestion: Invisible fencing for mice / Proximity alerts / Studs for costumes / jackets / gloves. Wireless fluid level indicators (embedded in something that floats). How linear is the output vs distance?
Project idea: Fill up a transparent cylinder (maybe a thick acrylic pipe sealed on ends or a globe if making it for christmas) with some kind of oil and set up a pump at its bottom such that it takes in the oil from sides and pumps it up in the center region of the circle and wrap the cylinder with a mirror film to produce kind of an infinite mirror effect. the pump and leds can be kept separate using a plastic mesh that is opaque in the regions other than in the center and near the edge of the cylinder so this will allow the oil flow to be set up properly. I guess the mesh will need to be bowl shaped to allow fallen led to move to the center and then the oil flow will pick them up again. It might need 2 coils to work if making it tall tho. Encasing them in epoxy and then using water insted of oil might work too but i think they will sink too fast.
If using epoxy, introducing small bubbles into it will raise the buoyancy. If slightly negative buoyancy can be achieved, perhaps only a slight current from the bottom will circulated them as desired.
Excellent. I made one 20 years ago when messing with Tesla patents. If you have hundreds, put them in a glass vase from Dollar store and build a base with the transmitter coil inside the base, to hold the vase on top. Like capturing hundreds of non-flashing fireflies!
You could make a vase with up to three coils on right angle axes, going on and off at different rates. The LEDs will blink differently at different orientations.
If I was seizure receptive I'd have been convulsing 🤣 the warning label was there, but I was too engaged listening to the dialogue that I took too long to read the message on the screen. Then the lights began to flash 👀😂
Can the power ring be shaped or must it stay circular? Would be a fantastic way to add lights to Lego creations with minimal set changes but the ring may need to be shaped to hide it away in the models
Coat them in epoxy - ball shape and have some liquid and agitation (maybe lava lamp or one of those piezo sonic agitators and have the light balls agitated in the liquid and with the wireless charger in the base. You would have the bases of something that some may like. Depending upon how far you can agitate (mineral oil may be good liquid) and container, you may get them far enough away so they're dimming will add to things. Probably start with jam jar and work out liquid so they are almost balanced and shake, place upon wireless charger and see if as an effort it has potential. But need to avail the whole wireless light aspect and floating some how would be best. Another idea - again make into epoxy marbles and do a marble track machine and have them light up in places. But I'd also be tempted to carry one around with me as, if it ever flashes - you have found a source of free energy ;).
And if there were a way to assemble them with two LEDs connected in opposite directions across the coil so they'd illuminate the whole light ball - especially with some diffusion material in the mix. ;)
@@FurrBeard Interesting, AFAIK wireless chargers induce AC and as LED's are diodes. Then I'm wondering if you could connect two to the coil in opposite polarity and tap all that power. Which would make the 360 lighting effect easier. Though doing one layer to coat and sanding that down, then doing finish shape coat would get you a long way I suspect already.
The LED acts as a diode and half-wave rectifies the signal so that it is a chopped-off sine wave. That is why the signal looks flat on the bottom of the cycles. The LED does not conduct then.
Try making a very large diameter coil (2 meters or so) and place a Christmas tree inside of it with the LEDs glued to branches. You'd probably have to build your own driver circuit, and those with pacemakers may want to stand far away.
I was thinking maybe a jar of some type with a small pile of stones resembling a formation with some small dried plants scattered about up and down it and these LEDs could be strategically placed as accent lighting throughout like they do in some caves that you go through they have colored lights lighting certain formations. The power ring could be under a cloth or matt that the jar is sitting on. 🤔🧝
Great for jewelry or decorating small areas around the home or office I would think. I have no idea how they work, but since they can light up and aren't hooked to a wire, they would look great as ring stones, earring studs, brooches or pieces for hair ornament.
I have one question, can you use multiple coils so you can place them next or above each other to have a larger range or will that interfere ? As a project suggestion, it would be nice to light-up some lego builds, for example one of the Christmas sets. Existing light kits have a lot of wires that are in sight and sometimes even makes the build structure less sturdy.
I would say yes multiple coils can be used. It would act as a booster as more power in a smaller area. However a simple magnet should have the ability to alter the electronic field for distance purposes.
I remember a circuit designed to alert you to someone touching a door knob. (Intended to be used at a hotel, for example) It used two tuned circuits which were thrown into imbalance when a hand touched the doorknob...these LEDs can be made to be held between the balanced circuits, thus in the unlit state. When a hand touches the doorknob, the imbalance created would allow the led to light.
The waveform you have measured is a modified class-E amplifier drain voltage waveform. That waveform, being fed into the coil and resonates with the load capacitor, forms a perfect sine wave, which drives the load. You can try to remove the LED and see if you get a sine wave on the receiver coil. The half sine is converter to full sine by using a tuned filter (in this case, a parallel LC tank comprised of the tx coil and tx capacitor, as well as any load rx coils and rx capacitors, where in a classic class-E it would be a series tank L and tank capacitor), which filters out higher harmonics (the clipped part's Fourier transform).
If you havnt got some sort off super solar run l.e.d smart shed for growing all your food and varies other projects then your talents are being waisted sir..
@@bskull3232 I dabble in that myself very much intrested in alternate ways off energy/power n the history...building a l.e.d solar shed among various other things..currently building salt batteries had some great results i just need a buck converter to up the amps/current..lower the volts to increase the current im told this is possible..volts are no issue can get whatever needed for a decent ammount off time too..maybe you could help me mate if u get a minuite cheers
I am imagining a cube of translucent blocks like a Rubik's cube but linked together at the center to allow them to light up only when they are able to connect to form logic circuits optically with wireless photovoltaic cells. This could create a new kind of game.
This is awesome :D so could i use this to make "moving lights" inside a fluid chamber like (i wouldnt use animals in it) just inside a fishtank and let them circulate with a pump etc? Incase the Led in Resin or something and make a big tank sized coil underneath it?
Suggestion, small gemstone looking casings for the leds, put them in a snow globe style domed container (minus the water) and hide the power ring inside the base of the dome. Maybe make the I side decorated like a pile of treasures.
Any chance of detecting mains in the wall? Be interesting to see a panel that could get a picture of what's in the all. Yeah, I know there's an app for that, but one that would be for A.C. fields would be cool.
A glow bag, different size crystals with LED’s in each. The coil could be easily be hidden in a crown royal like bag. No idea how long a battery could power these or how many they could power at one time.
Nice I've made those before, it's surprisingly easy to create, although those seem to be very well tuned as their range is great compared to the ones I've created which use a much beefier "transmitter".
Hey I know this comment is about 6 months old so I hope you see this but wondering if you know of a tutorial on how to make them? I would like to make some for 1mm LEDs.
Maybe you could change the value of the capacitor on some of them and then sweep the frequency of the driving coil to have them light up in groups at different times?
Might work - I think range of frequencies the tuned circuit will pick up is quite large so it might be hard to discriminate. I am thinking that some kind of FM modulation.
Having played around with a DIY version, I think you could do it, with very large frequency differences, e.g. 100kHz, 200kHz etc.. Lots of wireless chargers have different coils to accommodate different devices and will switch between them to try and find the best coupling.
@@atomic14 Very interesting, thank you. I will keep an eye open in case you post any results. I'll treat myself to a batch of the LEDs - if nothing else will make novel Xmas lights.
I do similar things but instead of inductors I use microwave generator and a tuned receiver with a pair of schottky diodes and an LED. Can achieve a range of up to 1.5 metres if i add a reflecting plate behind the transmitter.
Very cool video. I used to work for a company in New York that sold LED lighting. We did experiments to find what color lights lasted the longest also the output of the LED. We did a burn test for a long time to see how long each style of LED would last. White light is not excellent, both warm white and cool light . Red light lasts the longest. It also depends on the voltage and the circuit board it is driven on
I am not sure if measuring vertical and horizontal distance with stainless steel ruler is a good idea for scientific measurement. The added steel "core" to the coil could change coils strength. But a great demonstration of cool gadget :)
These are very interesting indeed. I'd like to see a version with a small battery that could be charged so that the LED would stay lit for some minutes/hours after removal. I've had an idea in my head for ages that would essentially be ping-pong balls on strings, moving up and down in response to real-time data (probably temperatures at various airports, but could just as easily be stock prices or whatever) and would love for the balls to be lit. Something like this, with a battery, would allow a much large range of motion.
...after removal..say like sunlight and nite..wat if the skin could be use ..in low frequency..in order for the elderly to see their footing this reduce the amount of falls and broken bones.
The only project that comes to mind is illuminated patches and artwork for clothing. You would use hook and loop fasteners to put the artwork on one side of the clothing, and to attach coils to the other side. When time to wash, one could remove the art and coils, and launder as usual.
So, you asked us to tell you why the "sine wave" looked not as expected. Here's the answer. The sinusoidal power supply is fed through a half-wave rectifier, the reason why the cut half of the waveform is not perfectly flat is due to diode leakage voltage and potential external electromagnetic interference.
@@ajmark517 As long as the voltage in the battery is enough to illuminate the LED, I don't see why not. To be safe, I'd recommend checking the operational voltage of the inductive LEDs so that you can match the correct battery to them. Afteral, you could trial-and-error, but you may fry the LED as I doubt they will have any protective circuity for over-voltage faults. Or just start with a nearly completely depleted 1.2V AAA battery or something and try it. If it doesn't work at all, reverse the polarity of the supply as it is a one-way circuit (DC).
I could see those used in some Shelves where you would usually use those LED Strips. You can place them basically everywhere and have all the wiring run behind the Shelf where nobody could see.
An idea would be one of those illuminating coffee tables with the LEDs embedded in the table and the coils in the placemats so that the LEDs light up underneath wherever you put the mat. ....or... a treasure hunting game where kids wander around with one of them in their hand until it starts to glow.
These would be great for a small Christmas tree, Christmas banner. Small coils around the base of tree alow you to put lights anywhere... Can you magnetize them or will that interfere with coil ? Thousands of applications then...
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I have an idea for these. Put coil in chessboard. LED light inside frosted glass / resin chess pieces. Would be a cool effect to see the pieces turn off as they're eliminated and removed from the chess board.
bruhhh
Yeah, and you have to put the pieces on the board to determine if they're the whites or blacks (in this case, blues or reds) ;-D
@@FjorimDerHuene that is the icing on the cake. I’m building one.
I would fricking buy this! Genius!
Found this one! th-cam.com/video/Fo0k4rvpctY/w-d-xo.html&ab_channel=MichaelMaupin
Get some plastic reusable ice cubes and put them inside and reseal the cubes. Put the coil under a drink coaster. When you set your glass on the coaster, the ice cubes light up.
This is genius.
Each guest can have a different color or mix, so they know whose drink is whose..... 🤔
Would be great for modelling - put the coil in the bas of a building and the put lights where you need without having to run tiny wires. Or use a base and separate vehicle lights.
I was thinking scale RC Ships myself. For things like mast and exterior lighting things that it's a bit harder to hide the wiring for or if burns out is obnoxious to replace and too much weight up high can be a problem.
i was just thinking that. Headlights or for Emergency vehicles.
Headlamps and Rear lights in Model Car builds,
I'm just about to build 1:600 scale model of Star Trek Original Series Enterprise.. You can buy a lighting kit for it, but it's messy and expensive. These would do the lighting job perfectly for running lights and window lighting me thinks as the coil could live in the saucer section where most of the effects are needed..
@@JETJOOBOY head lamp in a lego hard hat.
A project idea I have will need a lot more LEDs. Spread them out in a grid in the ground outside (porch / garden etc). Move around with the wireless coil and see them lightup with your route. Can be used in RC car racing tracks aswell, where the rc cars carry a small wirless coil, lighning up the track wherever they go.
I love the RC track idea.
This is how you get TRON! Do you want to get TRON?
@@horrorhotel1999 tron means?
@@kotresh How old are you? It's a movie from 1982! 🤣
@@uweroddinger393 20
These would be great for adding LEDs to model kits if you make a base stand with a coil in it.
The XKT-333 has the pinout of a common MOSFET, but possibly optimised for this application. The 6-pin chip appears to be generating a fixed frequency output based on the resistors, as there appears to be no feedback.
I'll guess the 6-pin chip is a VCO (Voltage Controlled Oscillator).
@@bigclivedotcom That's it - a pretty simple circuit really, MOSFET driven by an oscillator with an LC circuit - I've redone the reverse engineering here th-cam.com/video/jdc_0r5pJPc/w-d-xo.html - but would be great to see a Big Clive video doing it properly :)
Also - OMG - Big Clive has commented on one of my videos!
@@atomic14 that's all you get for Christmas.
Yea Big Clive
Would make much better Christmas tree lights as the coil could be in a stem and the leds just prinkle onto the tree. no more wire mess when putting the tree up.
“No more wire mess when putting the tree up”
Sadly, with the distance those can be from the coil before dimming greatly, you would have potentially more of a wire mess due to the coils themselves and then the wires to power that unless you make/find a circuit and use battery power that you can hide away easier. If not, you’ll have much more wiring to deal with. It’s a great idea and good job buddy for the video. It was fantastic. I appreciate it!
Coil tinsel?? 😃🎄
You can buy trees that have fibre optics in the branches. You e been able to buy them for nearly 20 years
I have a bedside table with an integrated QI charging pad.
With these LEDs I could put a small Christmas tree there :)
This is a very inefficient way of transmitting power tho
You loose like 90% of the power you consume on having them wireless
This would work well as a puzzle prop for one of those escape rooms.... If you placed an led in a translucent 3d printed gem, you could embed the coil into a chalice or something so that when the gem is placed in it, it will light up. You could even monitor the current of the coil circuit to trigger some door latch or something once you've placed enough gems in the chalice. Since the leds don't draw that much current, you might need a few before you could reliably detect it, but that could be part of the puzzle!
Probably it would be easier with a magnetic switch and a small battery tho, so nothing needs to be connected to power.
Use clear resin to make the “gemstones”, then you can cut and sand to the desired shape or size.
Furhermore, you could have several gems with only a few of them having "magical properties". You'd use some "magic harmonizer" to light up the gems that will allow you to progress.
put a blacklight LED so that when you place it on the correct spot, it reveals hidden text.
what, me? noooo i've totally not been learning electrical engineering just to design escape rooms..
In Japan, back in 1996 there were this antena cap with LED at the top, kids love it at the time. When they receive a call the led start to flash or blink.
Can the LEDs be water sealed? If so you could do a snow globe with the coil at the bottom of the globe. The only thing to work out would be what fluid would be weight neutral so the LEDs float around evenly inside.
dip them in wax
That's a really good idea!
I think that the liquid doesn't have to be necessarily weight neutral. Maybe they could also move around, maaaaybe with the help of a mini pumper
Bro you just blew my mind
I feel like the weight of the LED's would make up for a more viscous liquid, Mineral oil should work fine?
That would totally work. as Taylor Hawthorne said just get a viscous enough liquid.
I always thought that LED Pool Lighting (Underwater) should use an Inductive Coil. In this way, the Lighting Module could be completely sealed in Resin, with absolutely no wiring, and no chance of water ingress to destroy the LED Light Unit. I have already had to replace one expensive LED Underwater Light - due to water ingress.
I did this with my pool. Using high brightness blue COB LED's and an inductive heater driver on the dirt side of the pool. I embedded magnets where the LED would stick to the inside of the pool. Works quite well.
that is a proper and logical use.
@@cap5856
I'd guess being submerged in 10,000 gallons of water would mitigate the heat of the coils a bit.
@@cap5856
I was thinking it would be like a puck on the wall of the pool based on what John H wrote.
Out of interest who did you buy these underwater lights from?
I have an old blower wheel from an air conditioner. I have considered mounting it on bearings on a pole in my backyard as a form of yard art. I have considered mounting LEDs to it as well so the spinning motion makes them blink. It would be interesting to see if they would blink as a magnet is moved past them.
if not you could put a bigger coil by the magnet and drive the original circuit
They may blink. Depends on the tuning of the coil, and the frequency of the magnet going by
Sounds like a cool variation on a Dream Machine ala Brion Gysin
As far as projects go, I really want to cast these into dice and then cast the wireless loop into a dice rolling tray. This way, when you roll the dice they glow! (bonus points if the LED shines out the high-side).
Something like these smart dice?
th-cam.com/video/UxT8COXu6zE/w-d-xo.html
i love this idea.
@@jurgmanx4644 dude I just looked that shit up and it's amazing, thanks for sharing!
@@meawreg and its all open sause so ya can improve and tweak. Its on my to do list, after minis. I should order a flexible pcb soon tho.
@@jurgmanx4644 you are amazing! Keep up the good work!
3:37 That's exactly what it should be, in reality the chip is pulsing Vcc into the coil when filtered by the LC circuit the higher order harmonics of the square wave are destroyed and an ugly, ringy, half-cycle sine wave remains. You're pretty much spot on with your reverse engineering!
Thanks!
As mentioned on other comments cast them inside of resin. One cool idea comes to mind, of making set of dice that light up when you throw them on the dice container, though this would need to be worked with some dice manufacturer to get balance just right to it to work.
You are holding it beside a metal ruler. Maybe compare it against a wooden one to find out the true range from power source.
make a lava lamp . where the lava are the LED's , make the led's water proof. and place the led in water and put a water pump inside so that the leds float in water from bottom to top or vise versa. place the electric coil at the bottom .
this would be a beautiful project :)
Over 25 years ago I had a Nokia (6210 I think??) you could change the stumpy antenna for an after market one with a multi LED set up that would flash when you was about to receive a call or text or make a call. I was always amazed that they would work with no external connections.
These + some fiber optic threads would be perfect for miniatures. Instead of using the LEDs in the eyes or what ever, put the LEDs in the base of the minis and use fiber optic threads that go down to the LEDs in the base. You'll get brighter lights, and you can mix/match fiber cables for different colors thread them around the minis a bit better. Just print the minis hollow and in multiple parts where you can use a tiny dremel bit to make channels for the fiber optic cables.
That's an awesome idea....
@@HeronMarkedBlade-ef7zz Thank you. I was looking at some of the larger 24v coils, looks like the LEDs are self regulating. But with a bunch of coils on a TTRPG tile board, you can embed these LEDs into all kinds of things. Glowing lava, fire, torches, sconces, and so much more.
Got a dungeon? Turn the room lights low and use the actual light from the sconces and torches to show what is and isn't in low light and total darkness. Just use some diffusers to spread the light out.
I’m not getting a new one ☝️ I’m going out of the house 🏠 I’m pretty 😍 and it looks pretty 😍 and the other is like 👍 I just saw a post and a few other pictures I have a few days to do you want it but it’s just like 👍 but it’s like 👍 but I’m sure it will do that I have no clue 🕵️♂️ I’m just not in it and I’m looking
this is great. could you add a small supercapacitor so when the led is removed from the coil it would still light up for a short time?
Endless applications in modeling and dioramas! Makes it easier for us un-electric types to light stuff up without solder, circuits, etc.!
I was thinking the same thing. The flashing lights would look great on a model cop car.
The inductors have very low range. Think about the charger for your toothbrush or cellphone.
My first thought was light bright. Since they can be placed in any space within the parameters you gave, that means you could make a 3d light bright setup that goes above, below, and all around the coil.
Oh I like you
That's what they remind me of! Lol
Great idea a retro toy upgraded to new tech
If the L/C circuit is tuned differently for each one, you could then control which ones are lit based on frequency and amplitude modulation.
You might not want to use a metal ruler while testing the range of inductive power. It's definitely going to influence the electromagnetic field. For the same reason that an electromagnet has an iron core with a coil around it.
How you know it'd conductive ?
@@dreknows How do I know metal is conductive? Or how do I know the ruler is metal?
VERY intriguing. So could we theoretically hide the copper coils in say, signage, and then have the LEDS permanently lighting it? Without the need for wired electricity.
Wires are way cheaper than using inductors. Also the complexity and cost is just so much higher and efficiency is much lower. The science has been around since the fist transformer was invented back in the 1800s.
@@gregkramer5588 Thanks for your response. After a bit of research I realised that I should have known better than to assume this was some cutting edge discovery.
@@Bitplex, contemporary LEDs are more efficient then those from the 1800s.
If you change the capacitor on some of the wireless LED you can change the frequency of the tuned circuit, by driving the charging coil with different frequencies you can choose which LEDs come on and when.
You will need a wide span on frequencies because LC circuits have a wide bandwidth.
Wear the coil as bracelet and glue the leds to your fingernails/fingertips?
Embed them in a block of clear resin, so that people can see them floating around in there without any wires. Then you can just hide the wireless "charger" under a table or something.
@@simonwilson7581 The fact that they are wireless is emphasized because they are floating around in a block of resin. Having them laying in a corner somewhere people would probably not think too much about it, as they might just assume they have some tiny wires or batteries connected. With resin people can clearly see that none of them are connected and that you can't grab the LED's to change a micro battery.
Mood lighting for dinner. In the bottom of drinks glasses they can glow when placed in the right place
@@danthelambboy great idea!
My first thought.
Will be doing this 👍
You could use it as a lighting scheme for a model train layout. But it might interfere with the DCC controllers. More experimentation should be conducted near the train layout.
The best thing about these is that they're wireless. So, the best project would showcase this. Can you figure out a way to make them levitate, float, or rotate in orbit while self-illumating? That would look magical!
I imagine combining a large snow globe and a fan would maybe get this
there are ways to make small things hover in place with sound waves ... I agree it would be very magical!
Dry ice a semi conductor magnetism
water proof them and suspend them in clear Orbies lol
Stating the obvious…
Thank you for the hint.
The Qi standard negotiate the power with the phone, i.e. 5, 10, or 15 Watt. Also, it detect the presence of metallic objects that can short the electromagnetic field.
The wireless LEDs are a barebone circuit, they don't reply to the inquiries of the charger, which therefore turns off.
You can build a simpler, crude driver for the coil you use to power the LED, with a 555 wired as an astable multivibrator, and a power transistor driving the coil. Try to use the Qi base frequency of 140 KHz, which is the best compromise for minimising coil losses.
Thank you for showing this.
Note that the coil you have built to drive the wireless LEDs, is a crude LW low power transmitter, which can disable long wave radio reception within the house.
could you increase the field potentecy by putting it in a microwave? could you cut a hole in the wire mesh on the microwave door and make it a directed microwave beam and power those things or other things at a distance?
Question, how did you learn about this type of stuff? Aside from going to college for it, do you recommend any resources that I can purchase/watch/check out to gain further knowledge about LEDs and the other things you spoke of, understanding the whole process of what you're explaining, and getting a grasp on electronics like this? I've always been very interested from an outside perspective, but have never known how or where to dive in - I really appreciate any recommendation you have!
You can even go easier than that. A simple "Joule Thief" circuit is able to power a coil, and get some distance powering an LED with your own hand wound coil attached to the LED leads. Ive done it before using a single AA battery, and it works a charm. You could build your own "joule thief" circuit, OR harvest one out of a 1 dollar solar garden light, remove the LED, and attach a coil to where the LED used to be. I've done it both ways, and it works.
The RX coils output sine waveform, looks flat on one side, because the flat area is where it's sinking current into the LED and the LED is forward conducting. So technically 'yes' the waveform is upside down, but only from the perspective of driving the LED with a possitive voltage, else it's the same as driving a reversed LED with a negative voltage.
Also you are correct that the phone chargers don't output all the time and do handshake and ping pulses(as well as tell the TX coil how hard to drive itself so the RX coil sees a reasonable voltage), another thing they do is FOD(foreign object detection) to make sure they aren't sinking their power into something conductive nearby other than the phone.
The simple answer ... Cause led as being a diode adn with a cap . Its just showing the positive cycle of sine wave
Fun stuff... Build a "snowglobe" with wireless LED floating in small "bubbles" inside the large water sphere.
Nice! I was thinking of a "firefly-globe" haha
genius idea... I think you need to find the right liquid that will provide neutral buoyancy. Also if the liquid is conductive.. you may need to dip each led into a clear epoxy coating to avoid shorting out. Then a slow circulating pump to provide agitation to the liquid. I would also suggest a larger sized globe to keep proportions looking nice.
@@panofish I've expermented with it, but I found neutral buoyancy very hard to achieve. still, I'm totally popping a few of these into a bong.
XKT-333 looks like a MOSFET, that the small six pins IC is the frequency generator.
You could make a real life "hot/cold" detection system with the coil planted somewhere and a "key" that lights up as it gets closer in proximity to the coil.
Do not use a metal ruler for measuring in this case it messes with the magnetic fields and might even amplify or strengthen the magnetic fields which makes the measurement far from accurate
Thinking the same thing. I wonder what the difference is when using a plastic ruler instead.
consider your ruler may be increasing the range!
i wonder if results would be different with a non-metalic ruler
Precisely, a steel ruler may connect the magnetic field of the induction coil way beyond the coil's plane. An induction coil attached to the oscilloscope could measure this.
that steel ruler is probably affecting the range.
As a guitar builder, my first thought was to cast them in a resin river up the middle of a fretboard. I'm already incorporating resin art into my designs but the interface required to power these doesn't seem like it will work the way I'd initially hoped. Maybe with some more brainstorming I can think of something cool.
wait. so maybe the E strings could be the coil? maybe you could just run a jumper wire between the two E string tuning machines, then the bridge connects at the bottom, so otherwise wireless.
I wonder if these would work underneath an electricity pylon just as strip lights do?
i would mount a coil in my door near the lock, then epoxy a few leds in a key fob, so you have a simple flashlight to see the lock at night.
That's a great idea!
You'll kill your battery
I need to buy some of these and put them in 3dprint gemstones, either clear filament or resin and make myself a desk ornament with a dragon treasure or something. I guess these pieces would be great for some kind of board game, especially if you can get them with different frequency response.
I would encase them in clear resin with little folds like raisins, then put them in a bottle of fizzy water, and coil below or on the side of the bottle and watch them rise and fall showing the model of cavitation and boyancy.
Squeal !!! These little darling will solve a tricky problem with lighting my very very large miniature dollhouse. Thank you so much.
Not sure if this would disrupt the signal but what you surrounded them in clear acrylic so they could work under water...IE: In Drink/ glass and coil inside a coaster, aquariums & place coil out side near Filter, pool & floating battery to power lights.
why did you use a metal (stainless steel) ruler to measure the distance? that would affect the fields...
embed the LEDs in something that looks like a gem stone, balance their weight so they are neutrally buoyant in mineral oil, mount the coil to the outside of a snow globe, fill the globe with the gem/LEDs and mineral oil, mount the globe to the end of a staff with all the electronics hidden in the top of the shaft.
bonus points, program various flash patterns, figure out a way to get some LEDs to respond to different flash paterns so you can have some flashing out of sync with others.
I was thinking just this. I'm wondering if the different colours respond to different frequencies some how? then you'd just need a coil for each colour, hooked up to an ICU of some sort
@@frankcooke1692 Essentially you would need a crossover on the coil so it would be a bandpass filter. When the frequency outside the range of the filter, it won't pass frequency. Obviously things will get bigger. I think that to scale up the project, lets say to a 10 ft VU meter, it would be better to use an old colour organ where the controller has multiple outputs triggered by frequency and then route those to the different LED colours, but then that takes away some of the cool aspect.
Many years ago I made a Gandalf costume for Halloween and Cons. I had a plain ol' staff, nothing fancy (per the book)...but it could throw a blinding light. I charged and set off the flash at will just by holding the staff. Nobody else could make it work. Made a lot of money at bars, sometimes even getting first place over the "hot chicks" wearing almost nothing.
Dismantled a cheap flash camera, packed the needed guts into as small a package as I could. Hollowed out a place in the staff to slide it into and sealed it back in with wood putty. Nothing showed but a bit of the lens. I ran the wiring down small grooves to the "handle" area, again covered with wood putty. 4 copper rings hammered into the wood and soldered to the wires.
Battery pack strapped to my arm, up my sleeve. I'm wearing a ring on my pinky, a ring on my middle finger. They are wired to the battery pack, no-finger gloves to hide the wires across my palm. The two lower copper rings on the staff are set to match my hand and those rings...the flash is charged.
Two more copper rings for a ring on my thumb to touch and short across...sets off the flash.
You touch it wrong, instead of a flash...it goes off in your hand, ZAP!
Which is what happens if I charge it and then leave it and someone else picks it up. Don't touch a wizards staff, you fool!
Still have it sitting here in a corner.
@@Todd.T I'm no engineer but I've been reasearching building speakers so have some familiarity with bandpasses and crossovers. As to how frequency and voltage relate i'm a bit sketchy. But the different coloured LEDs should have different 'responses' I could manipulate??
Also.. how would I go if I just smashed the door in of some microwaves? Would that basically power them? This is for research purposes only... I'm not going to try that.......
@@yourhandlehere1 This is sort of similiar to what I tried to do with a hat once. But more recently, so I think the batteries were a bit more compact, and you can just pick them off the shelf at K-Mart. And RGB programmable strip lights are pretty cheap too. Still couldn't fit it. Could go an extra step and seperate the cells, but that seems like a fire hazard. Would probably work with a wizard's hat or top hat.
My first thought is to use them during Astrophotography sessions. We need very dim lights (usually red) so we can preserve our night vision. I'd put the lights near my focuser knobs, EQ mount hand controller, Inrervalometer, tripod legs, chair and various other places I want to not bump while taking pictures and navigating around my picture taking site. It's common to take pictures from just after dark until almost sun rise.
Another use is night lights from bedroom to bathroom for adults and todlers.
They'd be useful in automobiles as dim indicator lights at various times.
Thanks for the video and for sharing how to make them as a DIY project.
after the first 30 seconds (after you did a little more closeup to the LEDs) my instant thought was "what a shame- and senseless waste of copper"... every LED base with a coil... as if those guys who do them would have discovered inductive current... but maybe i am wrong, and if they just were wired would use up more copper... but you still have to have the wiring and the "coil" around them for supplying them with power
this can be used as visual warning signals for presence of altering electromagnetic field?
3:31 - The signal on the coil is a half-sine wave - Because the drive circuit is a "Class E" type. In this topology, there is only one N-CH MOSFET that pulls the current from the coil, and the current is pushed back by the inductance of the coil itself and a resonating capacitor in parallel to the coil. The result is a push-pull current through the coil, but with only 1 MOSFET transistor. This is the cheapest drive circuit. The downside is that this circuit has to be tuned for a certain frequency, unlike regular push-pull drivers (half-bridge). Check for more explanation on Class-E on the web.
This. I don't recognize the part numbers, but the pinout and application looks absolutely like a MOSFET output.
Which in turn means the 6-pin device is, probably not any kind of controller, though possibly; it's most likely an adjustable squarewave oscillator. In the past I've used parts like LTC6990, adjustable silicon oscillator; in effect a nicer version of a 555 (less versatile, easier to use for simple applications). The pinout doesn't match so it might be a similar part from someone else.
Correct - the big chip is just a MOSFET the 6 pin chip is an XKT001. I've fixed up the reverse engineering in the DIY video: th-cam.com/video/jdc_0r5pJPc/w-d-xo.html
make a ledlamp (lavalamp)
and have mineral oil in it and it can stand on the charger.
have some pump or rotating thing in it so the leds swirl around
Put them in a container of clear oil or other non-conductive fluid, then use a pump or agitator to swirl them around like a lava lamp.
Or I guess you could cover them in epoxy then use water in the container.
Actually don't do that because I want to do it now!
I got some of these, I didn't realise how dense they are! I was able to get one to float by sticking a big piece of styrofoam to it, but I'm not sure how many you could have in a jar and still be able to see the lights.
Suggestion for use:
I want something like this for my restaurant. I’m planning to use something similar for guests to pick up when they arrive. It would be a glass or similar clear item that changes color for alerts. One color when their table is ready for them, another to alert them of which table is theirs, maybe a last color to inform them of when a dish is done being cooked and is being plated up and in the way.
I want novelties that no other restaurant has or has ever tried.
Suggestion: Invisible fencing for mice / Proximity alerts / Studs for costumes / jackets / gloves.
Wireless fluid level indicators (embedded in something that floats). How linear is the output vs distance?
tune each led to a different frequency by changing the cap/resistor and make a magic wand for detecting RF
👍🏼 Like this one! 😎✌🏼
Project idea: Fill up a transparent cylinder (maybe a thick acrylic pipe sealed on ends or a globe if making it for christmas) with some kind of oil and set up a pump at its bottom such that it takes in the oil from sides and pumps it up in the center region of the circle and wrap the cylinder with a mirror film to produce kind of an infinite mirror effect. the pump and leds can be kept separate using a plastic mesh that is opaque in the regions other than in the center and near the edge of the cylinder so this will allow the oil flow to be set up properly. I guess the mesh will need to be bowl shaped to allow fallen led to move to the center and then the oil flow will pick them up again. It might need 2 coils to work if making it tall tho.
Encasing them in epoxy and then using water insted of oil might work too but i think they will sink too fast.
If using epoxy, introducing small bubbles into it will raise the buoyancy. If slightly negative buoyancy can be achieved, perhaps only a slight current from the bottom will circulated them as desired.
Was thinking exactly this.
Also, make the epoxy semi-opaque so the LED's become little balls of light
That's cool!
@@J_Stronsky Thumbs up on that idea. Maybe some fine silver glitter in the epoxy to make them sparkly.
Excellent. I made one 20 years ago when messing with Tesla patents.
If you have hundreds, put them in a glass vase from Dollar store and build a base with the transmitter coil inside the base, to hold the vase on top.
Like capturing hundreds of non-flashing fireflies!
That's sounds like a great idea - I'm going to try making some myself - have a bunch of inductors to try out.
@@atomic14 👍
You could make a vase with up to three coils on right angle axes, going on and off at different rates. The LEDs will blink differently at different orientations.
If I was seizure receptive I'd have been convulsing 🤣 the warning label was there, but I was too engaged listening to the dialogue that I took too long to read the message on the screen. Then the lights began to flash 👀😂
Can the power ring be shaped or must it stay circular? Would be a fantastic way to add lights to Lego creations with minimal set changes but the ring may need to be shaped to hide it away in the models
Coat them in epoxy - ball shape and have some liquid and agitation (maybe lava lamp or one of those piezo sonic agitators and have the light balls agitated in the liquid and with the wireless charger in the base. You would have the bases of something that some may like. Depending upon how far you can agitate (mineral oil may be good liquid) and container, you may get them far enough away so they're dimming will add to things.
Probably start with jam jar and work out liquid so they are almost balanced and shake, place upon wireless charger and see if as an effort it has potential.
But need to avail the whole wireless light aspect and floating some how would be best.
Another idea - again make into epoxy marbles and do a marble track machine and have them light up in places.
But I'd also be tempted to carry one around with me as, if it ever flashes - you have found a source of free energy ;).
I like it - hadn’t thought of actually putting them in liquid - but obvious really, you can seal them completely.
And if there were a way to assemble them with two LEDs connected in opposite directions across the coil so they'd illuminate the whole light ball - especially with some diffusion material in the mix. ;)
@@FurrBeard Interesting, AFAIK wireless chargers induce AC and as LED's are diodes. Then I'm wondering if you could connect two to the coil in opposite polarity and tap all that power. Which would make the 360 lighting effect easier. Though doing one layer to coat and sanding that down, then doing finish shape coat would get you a long way I suspect already.
I wanna put these in my fish tank
The LED acts as a diode and half-wave rectifies the signal so that it is a chopped-off sine wave. That is why the signal looks flat on the bottom of the cycles. The LED does not conduct then.
Hence LED = Light Emitting Diode :)
Try making a very large diameter coil (2 meters or so) and place a Christmas tree inside of it with the LEDs glued to branches. You'd probably have to build your own driver circuit, and those with pacemakers may want to stand far away.
How about a replica of Saturn with the rings being the coil, and the LEDs on or inside the globe ?
I was thinking maybe a jar of some type with a small pile of stones resembling a formation with some small dried plants scattered about up and down it and these LEDs could be strategically placed as accent lighting throughout like they do in some caves that you go through they have colored lights lighting certain formations. The power ring could be under a cloth or matt that the jar is sitting on. 🤔🧝
Great for jewelry or decorating small areas around the home or office I would think. I have no idea how they work, but since they can light up and aren't hooked to a wire, they would look great as ring stones, earring studs, brooches or pieces for hair ornament.
you don't remember cellphones having charms and antenna toppers that did this??
Those would be cool in a board game with glowing pieces or playfield.
I have one question, can you use multiple coils so you can place them next or above each other to have a larger range or will that interfere ?
As a project suggestion, it would be nice to light-up some lego builds, for example one of the Christmas sets. Existing light kits have a lot of wires that are in sight and sometimes even makes the build structure less sturdy.
Multiple coils should not be a problem.
I would say yes multiple coils can be used. It would act as a booster as more power in a smaller area.
However a simple magnet should have the ability to alter the electronic field for distance purposes.
more coils equals more flux density or Tesla (T) or Gauss in this case a smaller unit. The larger your field the further your range.
A LED ring with the power coming from a watch on the same arm. Could we see this in the future?
I remember a circuit designed to alert you to someone touching a door knob. (Intended to be used at a hotel, for example)
It used two tuned circuits which were thrown into imbalance when a hand touched the doorknob...these LEDs can be made to be held between the balanced circuits, thus in the unlit state. When a hand touches the doorknob, the imbalance created would allow the led to light.
The waveform you have measured is a modified class-E amplifier drain voltage waveform. That waveform, being fed into the coil and resonates with the load capacitor, forms a perfect sine wave, which drives the load. You can try to remove the LED and see if you get a sine wave on the receiver coil. The half sine is converter to full sine by using a tuned filter (in this case, a parallel LC tank comprised of the tx coil and tx capacitor, as well as any load rx coils and rx capacitors, where in a classic class-E it would be a series tank L and tank capacitor), which filters out higher harmonics (the clipped part's Fourier transform).
If you havnt got some sort off super solar run l.e.d smart shed for growing all your food and varies other projects then your talents are being waisted sir..
@@jshaw4757 Well, I have a PhD in power electronics and I make a living by making energy utilization more efficient.
@@bskull3232 My kinda dude show me your lab bro lol..
@@bskull3232 No home projects no dexters lab hidden..??
@@bskull3232 I dabble in that myself very much intrested in alternate ways off energy/power n the history...building a l.e.d solar shed among various other things..currently building salt batteries had some great results i just need a buck converter to up the amps/current..lower the volts to increase the current im told this is possible..volts are no issue can get whatever needed for a decent ammount off time too..maybe you could help me mate if u get a minuite cheers
I am imagining a cube of translucent blocks like a Rubik's cube but linked together at the center to allow them to light up only when they are able to connect to form logic circuits optically with wireless photovoltaic cells. This could create a new kind of game.
This is awesome :D so could i use this to make "moving lights" inside a fluid chamber like (i wouldnt use animals in it) just inside a fishtank and let them circulate with a pump etc? Incase the Led in Resin or something and make a big tank sized coil underneath it?
Imagine what our world is going to look like in the next 5 years just with this alone. Super clean set ups!
Suggestion, small gemstone looking casings for the leds, put them in a snow globe style domed container (minus the water) and hide the power ring inside the base of the dome. Maybe make the I side decorated like a pile of treasures.
Use a plastic ruler instead so it does not interfere or boost the range
Project - illuminated wireless led chessmen, with charging loop in chess board
I'd be interested to know how the range changes if you use a plastic ruler to measure it
As far as I can tell no effect on the range. I can't believe how much controversy the steel ruler has caused :)
Any chance of detecting mains in the wall? Be interesting to see a panel that could get a picture of what's in the all. Yeah, I know there's an app for that, but one that would be for A.C. fields would be cool.
A glow bag, different size crystals with LED’s in each. The coil could be easily be hidden in a crown royal like bag. No idea how long a battery could power these or how many they could power at one time.
Nice I've made those before, it's surprisingly easy to create, although those seem to be very well tuned as their range is great compared to the ones I've created which use a much beefier "transmitter".
Hey I know this comment is about 6 months old so I hope you see this but wondering if you know of a tutorial on how to make them? I would like to make some for 1mm LEDs.
I already know what I'm going to use on my Christmas tree.
Maybe you could change the value of the capacitor on some of them and then sweep the frequency of the driving coil to have them light up in groups at different times?
Might work - I think range of frequencies the tuned circuit will pick up is quite large so it might be hard to discriminate. I am thinking that some kind of FM modulation.
Having played around with a DIY version, I think you could do it, with very large frequency differences, e.g. 100kHz, 200kHz etc.. Lots of wireless chargers have different coils to accommodate different devices and will switch between them to try and find the best coupling.
@@atomic14 Very interesting, thank you. I will keep an eye open in case you post any results. I'll treat myself to a batch of the LEDs - if nothing else will make novel Xmas lights.
I do similar things but instead of inductors I use microwave generator and a tuned receiver with a pair of schottky diodes and an LED. Can achieve a range of up to 1.5 metres if i add a reflecting plate behind the transmitter.
Very cool video. I used to work for a company in New York that sold LED lighting. We did experiments to find what color lights lasted the longest also the output of the LED. We did a burn test for a long time to see how long each style of LED would last. White light is not excellent, both warm white and cool light . Red light lasts the longest. It also depends on the voltage and the circuit board it is driven on
I am not sure if measuring vertical and horizontal distance with stainless steel ruler is a good idea for scientific measurement. The added steel "core" to the coil could change coils strength.
But a great demonstration of cool gadget :)
Exactly this. The range measurements may seem possibly faulty, considering the ruler.
Why use a metal ruler? Don't you think a plastic ruler would be less likely to skew the results?
These are very interesting indeed. I'd like to see a version with a small battery that could be charged so that the LED would stay lit for some minutes/hours after removal.
I've had an idea in my head for ages that would essentially be ping-pong balls on strings, moving up and down in response to real-time data (probably temperatures at various airports, but could just as easily be stock prices or whatever) and would love for the balls to be lit. Something like this, with a battery, would allow a much large range of motion.
...after removal..say like sunlight and nite..wat if the skin could be use ..in low frequency..in order for the elderly to see their footing this reduce the amount of falls and broken bones.
The only project that comes to mind is illuminated patches and artwork for clothing. You would use hook and loop fasteners to put the artwork on one side of the clothing, and to attach coils to the other side. When time to wash, one could remove the art and coils, and launder as usual.
just wondering... what range could you get if you made the coil a 6 axis winding and wanted it to look like a firework display
So, you asked us to tell you why the "sine wave" looked not as expected. Here's the answer. The sinusoidal power supply is fed through a half-wave rectifier, the reason why the cut half of the waveform is not perfectly flat is due to diode leakage voltage and potential external electromagnetic interference.
Hey u sound smart. How do I power this at home. Can i just use a batter with +/- wires
Doesn’t matter the voltage?
@@ajmark517 As long as the voltage in the battery is enough to illuminate the LED, I don't see why not. To be safe, I'd recommend checking the operational voltage of the inductive LEDs so that you can match the correct battery to them. Afteral, you could trial-and-error, but you may fry the LED as I doubt they will have any protective circuity for over-voltage faults. Or just start with a nearly completely depleted 1.2V AAA battery or something and try it. If it doesn't work at all, reverse the polarity of the supply as it is a one-way circuit (DC).
If you can get the balancing right I would love to get a dice set with a dice box with the built in coil.
That would be pretty spectacular, especially if you were employing D&D dice.
You know what we had them as pendents on our phones years years ago? and nothing is new about them? and they are just coming back?
Who remembers>
Obligatory XKCD: xkcd.com/1053/
@@atomic14 perfect!
I could see those used in some Shelves where you would usually use those LED Strips. You can place them basically everywhere and have all the wiring run behind the Shelf where nobody could see.
shouldn't you be able to drive the coil using a 555 timer with the proper frequency?
Thumbs up for the BigClive reference.
Not quite got the range Nicola Tesla was aiming for. ;)
An idea would be one of those illuminating coffee tables with the LEDs embedded in the table and the coils in the placemats so that the LEDs light up underneath wherever you put the mat.
....or...
a treasure hunting game where kids wander around with one of them in their hand until it starts to glow.
These would be great for a small Christmas tree, Christmas banner. Small coils around the base of tree alow you to put lights anywhere... Can you magnetize them or will that interfere with coil ? Thousands of applications then...