Hi from Madrid, and Thank you for watching! If you have any questions or suggestions feel free to comment here. And please don't forget to like & share so that TH-cam suggests this video to other bonsai lovers elsewhere! 🌱🌿🌳
Thanks for your comment, glad you're find my videos helpful. Did you see my new video? I'd be interested to know if some of your Dad's trees have developed big dome apices on top, that seems to make a tree look really old and grand.
My 40yr old boxwood that I inherited from my dad was browning/bronzing a bit too much and had me concerned. I followed these instructions and slip potted it since it’s autumn. I’m blown away by the results! Literally overnight the color improved dramatically. Planning a full repot in spring. Thank you!
Great to hear it! In any case boxwood leaves sometimes change to orange-red colour when they get parched in late summer but they usually change back to green again in spring.
Thank your for the video Dave. I believe you helped me save a Trident Maple I bought through a mail order. The tree was in a pot of dirt and was retaining too much water. The health of the tree was failing fast. I slip potted the tree per the video, and while I lost about half of the leaves, I have new growth all over the tree. It should look real good in a few months. Thanks again.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Hi Dave. Sorry for the delay. TH-cam had problems with the comment feature was having a problem. I saw this video and others and they are very helpful.
Thanks for your kind words. I would also like to get more views but I suppose TH-cam helps niche channels grow slowly; it's very rare to have viral videos about bonsai!
I’m loving your videos so much! I love all of the diagrams you insert. You have such a relaxing voice for this and your videos are so pleasant and relaxing. I bought the “modern bonsai practice book” that you were holding and mentioned was a good in another video. Im just now diving in. My first trident maple is arriving this week! Also, eventually, we’re looking forward to building the bonsai benches. Thank you for all of this!
Thanks Oliver I really appreciate it! It's great to hear about your trident and plans for your benches. One thing I possibly should have done differently, maybe, would be to put the blocks closer to each other so that the wooden planks would overhang the ends by about 8 inches. Then the planks wouldn't bow down in the middle, and also the run off water would just drip off the ends of the planks whereas now the water is running down the side of the blocks. Not a big deal though. On the plus side, where I have the blocks now I can use them to support vertical wooden struts which I'm considering for holding a semi-shade mesh over the benches. The harsh Madrid sun really burns the top leaves of the Japanese maples and the azaleas. The trident seems to be okay with strong sun though. Enjoy your trident when it arrives!
Thanks! Yeah it's weird, first time I came here was 25 years ago, I was living in London and couldn't believe the stark contrast in weather in less than two hours flight. Are you in Belfast? I went there for a friend's wedding in the 90s. I loved it!! We drank soooo much. It was raining the whole weekend 😁☔🍺🍺
Another great video! You have really good production value in your videos. Mind if I ask what video editing software you use? I use Kinemaster. It's not bad bit I'm looking for something better. Also I loved the blooper at the end.
Thanks mate! I have moved from editor to editor but always on PC software. I think phone or tablet based software is not good enough. Do you have your direct mail on your channel? I can send you the list of editors I have tried with my pros and cons of each...
I happened to pick up some pond baskets the other day intending to do something similar to a few of my trees. I was just debating whether to do it soon or wait until buds are breaking in Spring 😊🌳
One downside of these pond baskets is that they're feather light so if it gets windy where you are you might need to secure them down so the whole thing doesn't blow away like a sailboat in a storm! Otherwise I can't think of any real downsides, at least from a horticultural point of view. From an aesthetic perspective of couse much better in a small bonsai pot!
@@PumpkinBecki Thank you too Rebecca! Can we expect a slip-potting video from you in the near future or are you waiting until spring to do the full job?
@@BlueSkyBonsai I'm having two thoughts...1) Do it now to something young that needs bulking up, and "plant" that basket out in the garden for a couple of years and see how the tree responds, or 2) Wait until Spring...or secret option 3) Do both :D
What a great idea if you can do both on two similar original plants then compare in 18-24 months' time! That would make a really interesting video series (well, to me anyway... I can't speak for your other viewers!). Then for, erm, scientific reasons you'd need to have a third in its original pot as a control. 🤓😊
I was intrigued to hear during your fact bo...I MEAN, soil graphic...that larger particles actually retain more water? Can that be true?? Seems so counterintuitive. Also good to hear that my muggy summers require the simplest, most homogenous soil mix, cuz “effort” and “nuance” ain’t my thing. Cheers, another kick ass video.
Thanks Mate! Ooops I think I explained that badly. A the risk of letting off another fact bomb 😉 the larger particles themselves don't retain more water, but what they do is push up the "perched water table" higher in the pot. That's the saturated level and not good for root growth in most trees, so you want to avoid that in humid climates. But here in summer it gets so hot and dry that the surface soil dries in about 5 minutes, and the mid soil after an hour or two, so I need to push up the perched water table because during the day it doesn't stay there for long. Here in Madrid, you just don't get root rot unless there is no drainage. What you get a lot of, is dead trees due to dry roots! Hahaha and this is what I get for trying to summarize my information! 🍺🍺👍
@@BostonBonsaiIdiot well let's share the blame that way neither has to feel guilty about it! Lol . I'm really glad I included the humid climates bit though, so I don't get a hundred complaints of root rot in a months time... 😊🍺🍺👍🏻
@@askgbk i don't but I've been thinking about starting one. Maybe when I get to 500 subs (dreaming big ha? 😂) I'll be sure to tell you if I do start one!
@@askgbk hehe nope my mind's gone completely blank lol. Any suggestions? Ah I know. I bought an azalea recently, a reeally nice one, maybe I could do a show-and-tell.
Hello and thank you very much for your very interesting and educational videos that you unloaded for us. Just a silly question of a beginner on the subject. I have the impression that in a very old Greek agricultural book was stated that a bonsai has the regular need of cutting off its roots as well. And that, I think, was firstly because of the need to handle the too much growth of our element that has from nature and minimise it so to give it the shape we want and also to keep our tree plant clear of dead or damaged roots and have a totaly healthy tree plant therefore. I would very much appreciate if you would like to give me some comment on it.
Hi, thanks for your comments and good question! Yes we need to prune a bonsai's roots, yearly if it's a tiny pot and vigorous tree species like trident maple, or every 2 or 3 years for slower growers and bigger pots. But for the health of the tree, we do not prune the roots in autumn; the safest and best time is early spring. This video (Big Health boost with Zero risk) was filmed in autumn, so I used a bigger pot and did not trim the roots. If you're interested please watch this video where I show 10 reasons to repot with root pruning, and the best time of year to do it (spring): th-cam.com/video/eFdWy-MfFrs/w-d-xo.html Then in this other video, also in spring, I show 25 tips for healthy repotting: th-cam.com/video/tDIRz2YFhfw/w-d-xo.html Please let me know if those videos answered your question!
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you the most for your immediate and very helpful to me, reply. In spite that some thirty years ago I planted my smaalgarden in a cottage of my by now passed away parents I have had no practice at all with the FINE ART subject of maintainning a bonsai, which I dared to take the ultra grand decision of buying for the beginning two already formed bonsai plants( a black I think pine and a Marple over 6 or seven years old.). Unfortunately for some reason I didn't complete my order. But I will be back some other time to fulfill my decision taken. I ll be watching your channel which I consider to be of a great source of information on the subject. Take care of yourself meanwhile. BB
@@yiorghosgeorge591 thank you! Bonsai indeed is a beautiful art, and to avoid any future disappointment, I always say we need to understand the horticulture of growing real trees in small pots. That has been the main subject of my videos.
I've been thinking of moving 1 or 2 trees out of pots and into wooden boxes with the hope it will improve the health with summer now about to kick in here in the UK I'm abit apprehensive
The main thing to worry about in summer is that the roots must never get dry. So, moving into larger containers could be a healthy plan as long as you know they'll sill get watered sufficiently.
That is my good bonsai soil mix. It has the perfect combination of water retention and through-drainage. The granules of soil have this property, with small pores between the granules, which encourages the most healthy and vigorous root growth. This is because they always allow fresh oxygenated water to the roots, (and not old stale stagnating water unable to drain away). It is a mix of about 2/3 akadama and 1/3 kiryuzuna. The top soil in this video (the lighter colour) was pure kiryuzuna.. more recently I just use the same 2/3 - 1/3 mix. These soils are also great because they're much lighter colour when they're dry so it's quick to see when it needs watering. These soils should be available from most bonsai nurseries. I just did a quick search for Italy and found akadama and kiryuzuna both available from this shop for example: bombonieregreen.it/
Hey man I love the knowledge you bring and how involve the directions and information is huge help. A bonsai stand of mine fell the other day and broke four five pots to the point the roots are already Disturbed can you give me any tips on having to or repot these and late summer other than standard methods of slip potting? They're all quite healthy and vigorous but saw almost an instant stop and growth from the shock. I will obviously baby these a little more keep them out of the harsh sun right now and watch watering. Any tips on roots while they are in the broken pot stage and already disturbed?ps. I live in Tennessee where it is hella hot and humid in the summer but the sun can be quite harsh right now as this is one of the hottest times of the year. I normally would not do much trimming shaving or repotting this time of year
Thanks man! You need to protect those roots at this time of year so yeah I would suggest slip potting. Put them into bigger pots with extra soil, just from now until spring when you can then repot them properly with some root trimming. I have never lost a tree by slip potting. I have lost trees by summer drought and by root pruning, but never by keeping the root ball intact. HTH
Great video. Quick noob question here, when you read online you're told not to repot during certain parts of the year. But what part of the repotting is it that's harmful to the tree? Is it strictly the root pruning? Because the way it's phrased many places you shouldn't repot at all, but slip-potting seems like it qualifies as a repot. Could you clear up my confusion?
Thanks! Your question is well founded because in bonsai talk, at least in UK where I'm from, when we say repotting we really mean root pruning. If you chop off half the root mass at this time of year when the many leaves are trying to draw up sufficient water for the transpiration that they need, especially in this heat, suddenly half that water supply is switched off and you have a drought problem - no matter how much water you give it in the following days - and a potential tree death. So, that's why we use the term slip potting, to show we're not disturbing the root system but giving it a bigger pot until the next spring repot. I did another video with more detail about spring repotting: th-cam.com/video/eFdWy-MfFrs/w-d-xo.html
yes, water immediately after a repot, in fact water copiously over a drain to remove all the dust up front. Also, if it's a "slip pot" like in this video, you don't have to worry much about after care, as long as you keep watering it will be fine.
Thanks kumaESP! I will do a pH test on a cup of Kiryu. There's nothing like real-life scientific soil test!! 😊 Last year I tested the pH of Akadama, of Kanuma, and of pink Cat Litter from Al Campo supermarket. If you're interested you can see a photo of my test result on flickr: www.flickr.com/gp/davidhseymour/PYK90v Thanks for commenting, keep in touch! 👍
Thank you! The colander, I bought from a bonsai nursery here in Madrid called Laos Garden. Olives are reasonably hardy, depends where you are in UK, most should be okay but I wouldn't like to try in the Scottish highlands! Anywhere in the south will be fine. They also do best in direct sunlight in summer. HTH
Hey Dave, have you seen any ill effects on your olive tree because of the colander? Could you share some kind of update on how the air pruning is going on, does it really work?
Hi there, I have observed no ill effects on the olive, even now in end-Dec when we're getting sub-zero temperatures at night. If any night is forecast as low as -10°c, or daytime temp stays below 0°c then I will put all the broadleaf evergreens into some insulating protection, but that is very rare here. I won't be able to show you the roots until spring 2022, that's when I plan to repot into a nicer pot again. The idea is to let this one grow unhindered for the next year. The colander does work for fine root growth. I will repot another tree in Spring, a Portuguese oak, that has been in a colander for all of 2020 so I'll show you the root growth when I do that. Cheers! 😊👍🏻
hi, I have a couple questions (sorry new to bonsai) if you have a nice flat root base, why put it in a deep pot? and I live in Canada... noone ever does what to do for soil etc for my climate lol
I wan to thicken the trunk on this so I'm giving 2 or 3 years of unhindered growth in this. I realise I'll have to work on the root base again then. But right now it doesn't have decent radial roots so I'm not really destroying an established root base. In Canada, but where? I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) that you have quite humid air, not excessively hot in summer and quite a lot of rain. So you probably need a consistent soil particle size of about 5mm because drainage is very important and a high level of water retention is not necessary. You might find 50/50 perlite/turface is good. Whatever you use, get a seive of about 2-3mm hole size to get rid of the fine particles and dust, which would jeopardize the drainage.
@@BlueSkyBonsai I have a seive and have been using akadama, pumice and lava which works well for the few older trees I have but I have a lot of seedlings/young trees and they dont seem to do well in it. It's like they need some organic to do well but organic doesnt seem to drain as well? So I am struggling to find a mix that will work well. I live in Alberta Canada, very cold in winter, short summer with the first half of summer very wet. (it's raining like mad right now haha) I will try the perlite/turface and let you know how it goes!
Thanks! These colandar-type air pots are cheap, you could even get them on Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0037AHZ12/?th=1 or a bigger round one: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09G2XVKTC/?th=1
Hey there, really nice content. If you could help me with my case I would appreciate. I leave in Germany, and at this time of the year we already got 0 degrees, so my tropical or mediterranean trees are already inside since 3 weeks ago. The main question would be: By putting my tropical plants indoor, would this kind of air pots work? I'm worried about the heating inside damaging the roots.
Hi Breno and thank you! Great question! I have to admit I have never kept an air pot indoors. However, I see no reason why it would be a problem; I think it should work fine, as long as the roots do not get dry. Keep it on a drainage plate but make sure there is an air gap between the bottom of the pot and the drained water so that the roots stay healthy. I had air pots in full sunlight in summer here in Madrid, where the air is super hot and dry, and those mini trees were just fine. I had to water about 3 or 4 times a day during the hottest time. That was like 35 degrees C in the shade, so imagine in the sun! In the end I moved them to the shade just to save on watering. But in your house (I guess) it wouldn't be that hot and I imagine you could get away with watering only once a day . Don't leave them next to (or above) a radiator of course!
Muchas gracias! Síííí es el faedo! Tengo ganas de volver para grabar más video ahí... Por cierto hice otro vídeo en León, en Matallana si te interesa: th-cam.com/video/-8tHJ64HETc/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai claro como no! Aquí tienes tu casa. León y sus montes pueden ser un lugar de gran inspiración para los aficionados al bonsai. Un saludo
Nice video, my question is: with the poor water retaining soil still in the roots, won't the granular soil dry out quickly needing to be watered more and therefore this will cause the old soil to be constantly wet and rot the roots?
Thanks! Yes that is indeed a risk. But if you originally potted the tree that you're slip-potting then you presumably used good draining soil originally. So I'm not concerned for this olive. I suppose the big risk is when you do this for a tree from a garden centre nursery and you don't know how bad the old soil is in there. In that case I would only consider slippotting to be an emergency measure until the next spring when you fully repot it with serious root work.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Ah okay thanks for the reply. I just bought myself a garden centre nursery cotoneaster and because I don't know when the first buds opened I don't want to risk repotting it even though it's in bad soil
@@lewisnorden3744 ok, if it was me I would repot it now into good draining soil. If you're worried, keep the leaves humid for a week or so after root pruning, eg. Frequent misting, or put a clear plastic bag over the tree. Here are two videos that I hope should help you: 10 reasons to repot your bonsai: th-cam.com/video/eFdWy-MfFrs/w-d-xo.html 25 tips for healthy repotting: th-cam.com/video/tDIRz2YFhfw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for a nice video. I thought larger soil particles increases drainage causing less water retention. Smaller particles increased total soil surface, Let us know if your tree produced fruit. Olives are pretty easy to cure, I have collected olives trees that are 15 years from wild growing olive trees in California. The town of Woodside south of San Francisco once had large olive orchards. The trees now grow wild along the highway. They have ferocious tap roots but are kind of indestructible compared to other plants. Olives are a great beginner yamadori for those with access to smaller growing trees. Even though I’m only a 20 minute drive from where I dug my olive trees they don’t fruit in San Francisco because it’s so much colder here in the summer. It’s a strange microclimate that changes within short distances. Cheers.
Thanks for your thoughtful comments! You're right about the surface area of tge particles. But I put larger granules at the bottom to raise the perched water table by half an inch or so, because it gets so hot and dry here in summer, I want to keep the PWT reservoir for a bit longer on those scorching sumner afternoons. I did a video about the PWT if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/Ij5jLgU-ZxY/w-d-xo.html Yes this olive tree produced a lovely crop of olives last year. If you're on Instagram you can see here: Bumper crop of olives this year 🌱 #olive #olivebonsai #bonsai #blueskybonsai #harvest #crop instagram.com/p/CVdOeaCjPd9/? I agree, olives are a wonderful species for bonsai. I also have several wild olives (olea sylvestris) which are also fantastic - smaller leaves but they don't produce fruit. Would love to visit California someday!
Hi dave, another dave here! I’ve recently got into bonsai and I bought a small bag of bonsai potting mix which contains ‘seramis’ which is apparently good for retaining water etc. It seems to me like ordinary compost but maybe finer ... I’m in Cornwall atm and most of the trees will be staying here in a green house for the winter and outside in the summer. I’m curious what soil you are using here in your video? Is it worth me looking for the granule type soil you’re using? Thanks and I appreciate your videos!
Hi Dave and welcome! Seramis is very good as long as it's granular, not powder. The powder will clog up all the air gaps and pores between the granules and those air gaps are essential for allowing oxygen down to the roots, and for encouraging root growth. So, even though we buy pre-mixed bonsai soil, I always seive it to get rid of any dust or fine particles. 2mm is the smallest I would use but ideally use 4-5mm soil granules. My soil is a mix of akadama + pine bark + kiryuzuna (which is a bit like pumice). All seived. I've found the particle size is more important than the exact ingredients of the soil. One exception: if you have azalea or camelia, they need acidic granular soil, so look for "kanuma" if you have those. HTH!
Love the videos, burning question, l've acquired a few trees over the summer months n l slip potted them into some temporary larger pots using my Bonsai mix, do l water them when the Bonsai mix dictates or when the original soil dictates? Thanks
Thanks! Don't let the bonsai mix to completely dry out, because you want to encourage new roots to grow in it for the time until your next repotting & root pruning. If you're talking about outdoor trees, deciduous or coniferous, now in winter you can leave them a bit longer. When your bonsai mix starts to dry you can wait an extra day before watering them. And if it's high humidity out, cold, raining or foggy you can leave them, because the soil shouldn't even dry out. In spring thru autumn, water as soon as the bonsai mix starts to dry. Same for indoor trees.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you very much for the prompt reply, that's more or less what l'd figured out, good to hear it from someone with a lot more knowledge/experience than myself. My plan for the future if l'm in similar situation is to slip pot them into something much more organic until repotting time, would you agree? l'm in a wet climate in N. Ireland, thanks
@@howardmckeown7187 I can see why you might want to use a soil that has the same absorption as your old compact soil. But personally I would always use granular soil, even for slip-potting. Especially in a wet climate, where drainage is more a priority than retention. Even here in Madrid I use granular mix for slip pots, knowing that I can reuse the soil at a later date. Another advantage is that you can leave it a few years in the bigger pot with granular soil if you want, which removes the pressure to repot it again urgently. The olive in this video more than 3 years ago, is still in that same collander pot, same soil. I'll leave it in there until the day I think the trunk is ready for a ceramic pot again. Maybe another 3 years?? Who knows 😊
Hi watching from the Philippines, just want to ask, is loam soil with crushed eggshells ok as bonsai soil, btw we have here hot and also humid climate so it's a tricky situation lol
I'm not keen on loam, it can clog up the drainage and can hinder the delivery of fresh oxygenated water to the roots. If you can use granular soil like pumice mixed with crushed bark, granules of about 3-5mm then you get more healthy root growth. Akadama and perlite are all good, but I appreciate all these soil types cost more.
Hahaha thanks Dave! Yes that pot is purely for training purposes - big enough to allow significant growth over 2 or 3 years, but with air gaps that prevent roots from circling at the pot edge, and thus promotes more fine roots to develop nearer the trunk base. But I agree the pot is ugly as bell! 🤣
I have a bonsai ficus tree. It’s still in the same small pot that I bought it in. I’ve had it for at least 3 years probably longer. What’s the best soul for this type of tree and can I just repot it in a larger pot so it will grow a bit? Thank you for your video.
Ficus grow well in most soil types. The best in my opinion is akadama becauae of the granular nature and the tiny air gaps that encourage root growth. You can indeed repot it into a bigger pot, but recently I have done some videos on repotting, like "10 reasons to repot your bonsai". I hope these help!
I have a chinese peoper bonsai which had very dark green glossy leaves and now its leaves turned light green and are ‘t glossy any more?! What should I do?! I used a pesticide from my expert plant shop because it seemed to have some pest but now it’s leaves aand also some fine branches are falling off! Should I try to slip pot?
Good idea to slip pot, yes. And don't expect immediate results.. it may take 4-8 weeks before you see an improvement. Don't let the soil dry, but also don't let it stand in a puddle of water.
@@foxinthebox3307 also, more leaves will probably go yellow and fall off over the next few weeks. That happens (it's not caused by slip-potting) But it should recover over time
@@BlueSkyBonsai I just went to another garden center and bought a bonsai pot, a little bigger for slip potting and couldn’t find akadama soil but bought some soil that looks like small pebbles to use as a first layer in the pot. It says it’s a mix of soil that derives from vulcanic rock so I guess it’s better than nothing. Inalso got some bonsai soil mix which I will add to the new pot. Hope that helps. I hope I didn’t kill my tree because I used pesticides....:( I keep watching your chanel and love the videos! Thanks for the advice!
@@BlueSkyBonsai you've slip potted into substrate like that before? With the soil it around the roots being that much different? And the tree is healthy? I ask because I have two juniper cuttings that are becoming root bound in small 3 inch nursery pots the trees are in a more organic soil and I want to slip pot them into tokoname grow pots using my akadama, pumice and kiryu mix with this work
@@BlueSkyBonsai also the tokoname grow pots are only 3 1/4 inches deep compared to the nursery pots are around 5 inches deep. Will it be ok if I have to push it down a bit for it to fit properly depth wise. Or should I fluff the roots or what?
@@xSinister_ yes, many times and it works well. I still haven't repotted that olive tree since slip potting in this video in 2020, and you can see how the tree is looking healthy and fruitful in the last photos in this Flickr album: www.flickr.com/gp/davidhseymour/509SDH8yS7 The last two photos are from yesterday; the previous few are from autumn last year. I also slip-potted a Mugo Pine into a tokoname pot in autumn 2020, and that is still doing great in the same pot. But the advantage of the colander is you get more fine roots instead of the winding-round long roots you get in ceramics. In my experience tokonames are great for up to 2 years (depending on the species).
Thank you for your response. I decided to just slip pot them into some plastic 5.5" x 4.5" depth. Because I do want to pot grow them a few years so they get thicker trunks. So I'll stay away from ceramic right now. Maybe in couple years I'll repot into tokoname grow pots then eventually a shallower pot. So just to clarify it should be ok if the soil the tree is in is more of a finer organic soil and using my akadama, pumice and kiryu substrate?
Hi sir, can i plant an olive tree in pure pumice mix without any cactus mix or should I just plant it in ordinary soil? Do roots grow in pumice? I planted my olive bonsais in a mixture of cactus mix and pumice granules but i would like to ask your advice about the soil which should be used. Thanks a lot in advance.
Hi, Pure pumice would be fine as long as the granules are not too big amd not small. I go for about 4-5mm. And, mixing with cactus mix is also ok as long as you seive out the fine dust so it doesn't block the drainage over time.
@@richardandrew01 yes it should be fine. Pumice is nicely porous so it stores the water in as well as around the granules. If you used the same size 2-3mm gravel it would be a poor alternative, and you would find yourself having to water it a lot more frequently. Regards from sunny Madrid!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you very much as always for the invaluable and helpful advice. Wished I could come and visit your place to buy some nice olive bonsais when the pandemic ends :) I often use hard-grade Akadama with some pumice granules for my olive trees and am really happy that these trees are very low-maintenance as they hate to be watered often. I really love your olive bonsai and have one which is called acebuche but it seems like it grows slower than its cousin, olea europaea.
I'm curios of the average temperature & humidity where you are. As well as the organic you use in your soil. I live in the high desert in southeastern Arizona, in the United States. Today is an average day. It's 11AM, 91 degrees Fahrenheit, with 8% humidity. We reach temperatures of 108 for extended periods of time in the summer. You're the only Bonsai TH-camr I have run across who is in a low humidity & high heat situation. Thanks in advance!!
Hi! It is slightly hotter and drier where you are in the Arizona high desert. Here in Madrid the temperature in May/June can get as high as 95° at the hottest time of day, like 3 or 4pm. The humidity is around 20% at the hottest times but more like 25% average during summer. In July/August we frequently get temperatures over 100°. Of course we measure in Celcius here so 36° is body temperature and I consider over 40° to be too hot. Do you keep a shade cloth over your bonsai?
@@BlueSkyBonsai They get morning sun, until around 10:30 or so. Past that the sun is brutal here. I'm making an area for my bonsai that I plan to filter the sun with bamboo screen. I used this method over my raised bed garden with good results. I have joined the closest club I know of in Tucson, but it's three hours away. And they have as many soil recipes are there are members... LOL!
Hi, good question... I would recommend consistent granules of 4 to 5mm throughout the whole pot. If you have high humidity then there is less water loss due to evaporation so you don't need to layer you soil for high water retention.
@@axelris Re. moss - yes I do sometimes grow moss on the bonsai soil in full sun, because it looks nice. Maybe it's not full sun because the bonsai leaves provide shade. But mostly I prefer not to use moss. It causes a few problems: 1- you can't see when the soil is getting dry underneath. 2- the birds try to eat the little insects in the moss, so they keep pecking the moss off the surface, making a mess and sometimes exposing the roots. 3-when you have moss it's harder to remove unwanted weeds from the soil, like liverwort, pearlwort, grass, etc. these are easier to remove when there is no moss. But on the good side, moss looks nice, like in a penjing it looks like grass around your tree... it also provides a layer of extra water retention, in case you don't water it enough... but then the roots start growing upwards into the damp moss. So, for me there is no "right" answer here. Maybe you could try it on one pot and see how you like it?? HTH
It's not that larger granules retain more water; it's that larger granules at the pot base raise the perched water table because water is naturally drawn from larger gaps to smaller gaps by capillary action. Here's a video I did about the perched water table in different depths of pot: th-cam.com/video/Ij5jLgU-ZxY/w-d-xo.html And the source I originally learnt it from was the book "Modern Bonsai Practice: 501 Principles of Good Bonsai Horticulture". In the description of the pot depths video, there is a link to the book on Amazon (sorry it's not cheap!)
I use top dressing of small particles (2mm) of akadama and kiryuzuna mixed 50/50. It helps wick up the moisture at the surface for longer before it dries, which helps me in this hot dry climate. But again, I think you don't need that in Canada.
You’ll be great with ficus (fig tree try willow leaf ficus or tiger bark ficus) and Chinese elms. Dawn redwood sounds awesome very jealous. Juniper *MAY* work for you also.
Hi, and thank you for a great explanation, especially the part about considering climate variations. I am quite new at this hobby, planning for my retirement in 15-20 years :-) But, I have a request that I need you to do if you want me to subscribe (or rather, if you want me not to unsubscribe) - please stop adding background music to your videos.
Thanks for your great feedback! It will be a hobby that is capable of keeping you happy for the rest of your working years and your retirement. Maybe to help me understand the issue with the background music, is it because the choice of music is inappropriate, or not to your liking? Or too loud and distracting maybe? Thank you!
@@BlueSkyBonsai It is not really about what music you play, but in my opinion it is unnecessary noice. Your 30 sec intro and bloopers at the end (the azalea episode) are great, but background music while you talk is just disturbing. But thats just me. Keep up the good work!
@@Hw0rg3n thanks again, I appreciate you taking the time to write your feedback. Good to know. Maybe I should reduce the volume to virtually zero while I'm talking. I do like the whiteboard style music for those whiteboard sessions though 🤔
Hi @@Hw0rg3n , I've thought of a way to do this. Some viewers like the background music and some don't like it. So I have set up an alternative channel on Patreon where I have zero background music during the main content of the video, while I'm talking. Only music at the start and end, like you said. I used Patreon as it will also allow me to do "videos on request" in the future. I am *not* intending to make money from doing this; it is purely my hobby. So I have pledged to donate every cent from Patreon to charity; specifically three charities (Cancer, Alzheimers and Save the children). In this way, you could see my videos without background music, for whatever price you decide to donate, as little as $1, and you'll know your donation would be going to a good cause. Is this a model that would work for you? I'm just trying out the options at the moment. You can see my patreon here: www.patreon.com/blueskybonsai Please let me know... thanks!
![โฮ่ง! (SUGOI) - LYKN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nFp4zjAARFs/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi from Madrid, and Thank you for watching! If you have any questions or suggestions feel free to comment here. And please don't forget to like & share so that TH-cam suggests this video to other bonsai lovers elsewhere! 🌱🌿🌳
My maples are in regular potting soil. Here in Salisbury NC.
They are quite happy, but I haven’t had them over winter
I’ve inherited my dad’s bonsai collection, some over 50yrs old. It’s a crash course to carry on his legacy. Thank you for all these great videos.
Thanks for your comment, glad you're find my videos helpful.
Did you see my new video? I'd be interested to know if some of your Dad's trees have developed big dome apices on top, that seems to make a tree look really old and grand.
Haven’t seen it yet. Will watch soon!
Just found this channel.. Brand new to bonsai. Looks like I struck lucky finding you. Thanks
Welcome aboard! This is a hobby that could stay with you for the rest of your life!
This is the best channel for learning bonsai. Succinct, Intelligent and educates clearly w/ diagrams. Also very well produced.
Thank you so much! Really appreciate it.
I’m quickly enjoying these videos more and more lots of knowledge
Thanks Nick!
My 40yr old boxwood that I inherited from my dad was browning/bronzing a bit too much and had me concerned. I followed these instructions and slip potted it since it’s autumn. I’m blown away by the results! Literally overnight the color improved dramatically. Planning a full repot in spring. Thank you!
Great to hear it! In any case boxwood leaves sometimes change to orange-red colour when they get parched in late summer but they usually change back to green again in spring.
Thank your for the video Dave. I believe you helped me save a Trident Maple I bought through a mail order. The tree was in a pot of dirt and was retaining too much water. The health of the tree was failing fast. I slip potted the tree per the video, and while I lost about half of the leaves, I have new growth all over the tree. It should look real good in a few months. Thanks again.
You're wecome! Did you also see this video about reviving a bonsai: th-cam.com/video/F7o8z5eT_Uw/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps too!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Hi Dave. Sorry for the delay. TH-cam had problems with the comment feature was having a problem. I saw this video and others and they are very helpful.
Thank you for this awesome art!
@@wendybarclay7908 you're welcome and thanks for your comment!
my good sir you have a very calming voice
Thanks .. I hope it's not so calming as to be boring!
I am glad to find your video’s on You Tube. They are amazing and extremely educational. 🙋♀️
Thank you! I'm happy you have found my videos useful!
Love your work. You deserve more views.
Thanks for your kind words. I would also like to get more views but I suppose TH-cam helps niche channels grow slowly; it's very rare to have viral videos about bonsai!
I’m loving your videos so much! I love all of the diagrams you insert. You have such a relaxing voice for this and your videos are so pleasant and relaxing. I bought the “modern bonsai practice book” that you were holding and mentioned was a good in another video. Im just now diving in. My first trident maple is arriving this week! Also, eventually, we’re looking forward to building the bonsai benches. Thank you for all of this!
Thanks Oliver I really appreciate it!
It's great to hear about your trident and plans for your benches. One thing I possibly should have done differently, maybe, would be to put the blocks closer to each other so that the wooden planks would overhang the ends by about 8 inches. Then the planks wouldn't bow down in the middle, and also the run off water would just drip off the ends of the planks whereas now the water is running down the side of the blocks. Not a big deal though. On the plus side, where I have the blocks now I can use them to support vertical wooden struts which I'm considering for holding a semi-shade mesh over the benches. The harsh Madrid sun really burns the top leaves of the Japanese maples and the azaleas. The trident seems to be okay with strong sun though.
Enjoy your trident when it arrives!
Only seen your videos recently but thouroughly enjoying them. Thank you.
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying the videos 😊
Great stuff. I do find it funny that we are weather opposites. I cant imagine having to worry about a tree drying out too fast lol
Thanks! Yeah it's weird, first time I came here was 25 years ago, I was living in London and couldn't believe the stark contrast in weather in less than two hours flight. Are you in Belfast? I went there for a friend's wedding in the 90s. I loved it!! We drank soooo much. It was raining the whole weekend 😁☔🍺🍺
Blue Sky Bonsai heavy drinking and rain. Sounds like you where defo here. Lol 😂
Good advice no fuss demonstration. Thanks
Thank you!! 😊
All your videos are great and easy to understand
Thanks! Glad you're enjoying 😊👍
Another great video! You have really good production value in your videos. Mind if I ask what video editing software you use? I use Kinemaster. It's not bad bit I'm looking for something better. Also I loved the blooper at the end.
Thanks mate! I have moved from editor to editor but always on PC software. I think phone or tablet based software is not good enough. Do you have your direct mail on your channel? I can send you the list of editors I have tried with my pros and cons of each...
@@BlueSkyBonsai Oh that would be great! Hope it's not too much trouble. My email is bonsaiboise@gmail.com
It s Mr nuts birthday, and as all ways loving your channel, thanks for sharing knowledge.x
Hehehe did you like the koala part??
Perfect job and very educational. Thanks again.
Thanks so much! 😊
What a beautifully looking trunk ! Keep us updated :)
Thanks Max! I will do that, hoping we get a full crop of olives on it next year 🍺👍🏻
Blue Sky Bonsai That would be the best reward !
@@maxinla2501 btw how's your Hornbeam coming along?, the one you collected a few months ago
Really good video, you do some awesome editing 😀👍
Thanks J! Maybe I went over the top with the editing on this one! 😆
New #388 subscriber. Informative tutorial. Thanks
Hey Matt, thanks so much! great to have you on board 🍺👍
I happened to pick up some pond baskets the other day intending to do something similar to a few of my trees. I was just debating whether to do it soon or wait until buds are breaking in Spring 😊🌳
One downside of these pond baskets is that they're feather light so if it gets windy where you are you might need to secure them down so the whole thing doesn't blow away like a sailboat in a storm! Otherwise I can't think of any real downsides, at least from a horticultural point of view. From an aesthetic perspective of couse much better in a small bonsai pot!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Good to know, that could be disastrous! Thank you Dave xx
@@PumpkinBecki Thank you too Rebecca! Can we expect a slip-potting video from you in the near future or are you waiting until spring to do the full job?
@@BlueSkyBonsai I'm having two thoughts...1) Do it now to something young that needs bulking up, and "plant" that basket out in the garden for a couple of years and see how the tree responds, or 2) Wait until Spring...or secret option 3) Do both :D
What a great idea if you can do both on two similar original plants then compare in 18-24 months' time! That would make a really interesting video series (well, to me anyway... I can't speak for your other viewers!). Then for, erm, scientific reasons you'd need to have a third in its original pot as a control. 🤓😊
I was intrigued to hear during your fact bo...I MEAN, soil graphic...that larger particles actually retain more water? Can that be true?? Seems so counterintuitive. Also good to hear that my muggy summers require the simplest, most homogenous soil mix, cuz “effort” and “nuance” ain’t my thing. Cheers, another kick ass video.
Thanks Mate! Ooops I think I explained that badly. A the risk of letting off another fact bomb 😉 the larger particles themselves don't retain more water, but what they do is push up the "perched water table" higher in the pot. That's the saturated level and not good for root growth in most trees, so you want to avoid that in humid climates. But here in summer it gets so hot and dry that the surface soil dries in about 5 minutes, and the mid soil after an hour or two, so I need to push up the perched water table because during the day it doesn't stay there for long. Here in Madrid, you just don't get root rot unless there is no drainage. What you get a lot of, is dead trees due to dry roots! Hahaha and this is what I get for trying to summarize my information! 🍺🍺👍
Blue Sky Bonsai I watched it again and low and behold, you explain it perfectly and, as usual, I just didn’t pay close enough attention.
@@BostonBonsaiIdiot well let's share the blame that way neither has to feel guilty about it! Lol . I'm really glad I included the humid climates bit though, so I don't get a hundred complaints of root rot in a months time... 😊🍺🍺👍🏻
Really enjoyable video as always. Its pleasant like watching Bob Ross 😎🍻
Wow, thanks! Now that is a compliment! Wish I had as many viewers as Bob did though! 🍺🍻👍
Blue Sky Bonsai the viewers will come on time my friend. Oh that reminds me do you have a community page on face book or anything ?
@@askgbk i don't but I've been thinking about starting one. Maybe when I get to 500 subs (dreaming big ha? 😂) I'll be sure to tell you if I do start one!
Blue Sky Bonsai do you have any special videos in mind for the 500 subscriber special ? 😎🖖
@@askgbk hehe nope my mind's gone completely blank lol. Any suggestions? Ah I know. I bought an azalea recently, a reeally nice one, maybe I could do a show-and-tell.
very easy..good work, Bro👍👍
Thank you bro!! 😊👍🏻
another solid video
Thanks again! 😊👍
Hello and thank you very much for your very interesting and educational videos that you unloaded for us.
Just a silly question of a beginner on the subject.
I have the impression that in a very old Greek agricultural book was stated that a bonsai has the regular need of cutting off its roots as well.
And that, I think, was firstly because of the need to handle the too much growth of our element that has from nature and minimise it so to give it the shape we want and also to keep our tree plant clear of dead or damaged roots and have a totaly healthy tree plant therefore.
I would very much appreciate if you would like to give me some comment on it.
Hi, thanks for your comments and good question!
Yes we need to prune a bonsai's roots, yearly if it's a tiny pot and vigorous tree species like trident maple, or every 2 or 3 years for slower growers and bigger pots. But for the health of the tree, we do not prune the roots in autumn; the safest and best time is early spring.
This video (Big Health boost with Zero risk) was filmed in autumn, so I used a bigger pot and did not trim the roots.
If you're interested please watch this video where I show 10 reasons to repot with root pruning, and the best time of year to do it (spring): th-cam.com/video/eFdWy-MfFrs/w-d-xo.html
Then in this other video, also in spring, I show 25 tips for healthy repotting: th-cam.com/video/tDIRz2YFhfw/w-d-xo.html
Please let me know if those videos answered your question!
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you the most for your immediate and very helpful to me, reply.
In spite that some thirty years ago I planted my smaalgarden in a cottage of my by now passed away parents I have had no practice at all with the FINE ART subject of maintainning a bonsai, which I dared to take the ultra grand decision of buying for the beginning two already formed bonsai plants( a black I think pine and a Marple over 6 or seven years old.). Unfortunately for some reason I didn't complete my order. But I will be back some other time to fulfill my decision taken.
I ll be watching your channel which I consider to be of a great source of information on the subject.
Take care of yourself meanwhile.
BB
@@yiorghosgeorge591 thank you! Bonsai indeed is a beautiful art, and to avoid any future disappointment, I always say we need to understand the horticulture of growing real trees in small pots. That has been the main subject of my videos.
Nice one Dave great video 👍
Thank you Mark! 🌳👍🏻
I've been thinking of moving 1 or 2 trees out of pots and into wooden boxes with the hope it will improve the health with summer now about to kick in here in the UK I'm abit apprehensive
The main thing to worry about in summer is that the roots must never get dry. So, moving into larger containers could be a healthy plan as long as you know they'll sill get watered sufficiently.
Awesome video!
Thank you! More coming soon 😊👍🏻
Where do you guys get that mini shaped stuff to fill adornate bonsai vase base?! I would love out sine things too. Are they made it Stones or metal?
That is my good bonsai soil mix. It has the perfect combination of water retention and through-drainage. The granules of soil have this property, with small pores between the granules, which encourages the most healthy and vigorous root growth. This is because they always allow fresh oxygenated water to the roots, (and not old stale stagnating water unable to drain away).
It is a mix of about 2/3 akadama and 1/3 kiryuzuna. The top soil in this video (the lighter colour) was pure kiryuzuna.. more recently I just use the same 2/3 - 1/3 mix. These soils are also great because they're much lighter colour when they're dry so it's quick to see when it needs watering. These soils should be available from most bonsai nurseries. I just did a quick search for Italy and found akadama and kiryuzuna both available from this shop for example:
bombonieregreen.it/
Fortunate Olive and Koala!
🐨👍🏻
Hey man I love the knowledge you bring and how involve the directions and information is huge help. A bonsai stand of mine fell the other day and broke four five pots to the point the roots are already Disturbed can you give me any tips on having to or repot these and late summer other than standard methods of slip potting? They're all quite healthy and vigorous but saw almost an instant stop and growth from the shock. I will obviously baby these a little more keep them out of the harsh sun right now and watch watering. Any tips on roots while they are in the broken pot stage and already disturbed?ps. I live in Tennessee where it is hella hot and humid in the summer but the sun can be quite harsh right now as this is one of the hottest times of the year. I normally would not do much trimming shaving or repotting this time of year
Thanks man! You need to protect those roots at this time of year so yeah I would suggest slip potting. Put them into bigger pots with extra soil, just from now until spring when you can then repot them properly with some root trimming.
I have never lost a tree by slip potting. I have lost trees by summer drought and by root pruning, but never by keeping the root ball intact. HTH
Hi, I think my plant is safe, there are new small leaves which are appearing.
Thanks a lot for your help.
Hi, that's good to hear 🌳👍🏻
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you so much.
Great video. Quick noob question here, when you read online you're told not to repot during certain parts of the year. But what part of the repotting is it that's harmful to the tree? Is it strictly the root pruning? Because the way it's phrased many places you shouldn't repot at all, but slip-potting seems like it qualifies as a repot. Could you clear up my confusion?
Thanks! Your question is well founded because in bonsai talk, at least in UK where I'm from, when we say repotting we really mean root pruning. If you chop off half the root mass at this time of year when the many leaves are trying to draw up sufficient water for the transpiration that they need, especially in this heat, suddenly half that water supply is switched off and you have a drought problem - no matter how much water you give it in the following days - and a potential tree death.
So, that's why we use the term slip potting, to show we're not disturbing the root system but giving it a bigger pot until the next spring repot. I did another video with more detail about spring repotting: th-cam.com/video/eFdWy-MfFrs/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai I appreciate the response, thank you. Just slip-potted a lot of seedlings and cuttings, what a relief not having to wait until spring.
Thks For Sharing!
🙏👍
lol, so much patience required. XD Do you water immediately after a replant? Or does that depend?
yes, water immediately after a repot, in fact water copiously over a drain to remove all the dust up front. Also, if it's a "slip pot" like in this video, you don't have to worry much about after care, as long as you keep watering it will be fine.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank youu! :)
Nice video - looks like you use similar pots to me!
Thanks Euan! Yes I think these pots are pretty common worldwide.. where are you in the world?
@@BlueSkyBonsai I'm from Brisbane - you?
@@EuanEllery Madrid, Spain. Opposite side of the world but maybe a similar climate?? I guess your winters are milder though
olive trees may have some issues with the acidity of Kiryu, better to use only akadama
Thanks kumaESP!
I will do a pH test on a cup of Kiryu. There's nothing like real-life scientific soil test!! 😊
Last year I tested the pH of Akadama, of Kanuma, and of pink Cat Litter from Al Campo supermarket.
If you're interested you can see a photo of my test result on flickr: www.flickr.com/gp/davidhseymour/PYK90v
Thanks for commenting, keep in touch! 👍
👍Helpful content.
Thanks! 👍🏻
Hi Dave. Nice video and Olive Tree. Where did you get the colander from? Also, do you think Olive are hardy enough for the UK? Cheers
Thank you! The colander, I bought from a bonsai nursery here in Madrid called Laos Garden. Olives are reasonably hardy, depends where you are in UK, most should be okay but I wouldn't like to try in the Scottish highlands! Anywhere in the south will be fine. They also do best in direct sunlight in summer. HTH
Hey Dave, have you seen any ill effects on your olive tree because of the colander? Could you share some kind of update on how the air pruning is going on, does it really work?
Hi there, I have observed no ill effects on the olive, even now in end-Dec when we're getting sub-zero temperatures at night. If any night is forecast as low as -10°c, or daytime temp stays below 0°c then I will put all the broadleaf evergreens into some insulating protection, but that is very rare here. I won't be able to show you the roots until spring 2022, that's when I plan to repot into a nicer pot again. The idea is to let this one grow unhindered for the next year.
The colander does work for fine root growth. I will repot another tree in Spring, a Portuguese oak, that has been in a colander for all of 2020 so I'll show you the root growth when I do that. Cheers! 😊👍🏻
hi, I have a couple questions (sorry new to bonsai) if you have a nice flat root base, why put it in a deep pot? and I live in Canada... noone ever does what to do for soil etc for my climate lol
I wan to thicken the trunk on this so I'm giving 2 or 3 years of unhindered growth in this. I realise I'll have to work on the root base again then. But right now it doesn't have decent radial roots so I'm not really destroying an established root base.
In Canada, but where? I'm assuming (maybe wrongly) that you have quite humid air, not excessively hot in summer and quite a lot of rain. So you probably need a consistent soil particle size of about 5mm because drainage is very important and a high level of water retention is not necessary. You might find 50/50 perlite/turface is good. Whatever you use, get a seive of about 2-3mm hole size to get rid of the fine particles and dust, which would jeopardize the drainage.
@@BlueSkyBonsai I have a seive and have been using akadama, pumice and lava which works well for the few older trees I have but I have a lot of seedlings/young trees and they dont seem to do well in it. It's like they need some organic to do well but organic doesnt seem to drain as well? So I am struggling to find a mix that will work well. I live in Alberta Canada, very cold in winter, short summer with the first half of summer very wet. (it's raining like mad right now haha) I will try the perlite/turface and let you know how it goes!
Great video. Thank you for the information. I'm just begging my Bonsai journey. I'd like to ask, Where can I purchase an Air Pot? I'm UK based.
Thanks! These colandar-type air pots are cheap, you could even get them on Amazon: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0037AHZ12/?th=1
or a bigger round one:
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09G2XVKTC/?th=1
Hey there, really nice content. If you could help me with my case I would appreciate.
I leave in Germany, and at this time of the year we already got 0 degrees, so my tropical or mediterranean trees are already inside since 3 weeks ago.
The main question would be: By putting my tropical plants indoor, would this kind of air pots work? I'm worried about the heating inside damaging the roots.
Hi Breno and thank you! Great question! I have to admit I have never kept an air pot indoors. However, I see no reason why it would be a problem; I think it should work fine, as long as the roots do not get dry. Keep it on a drainage plate but make sure there is an air gap between the bottom of the pot and the drained water so that the roots stay healthy.
I had air pots in full sunlight in summer here in Madrid, where the air is super hot and dry, and those mini trees were just fine. I had to water about 3 or 4 times a day during the hottest time. That was like 35 degrees C in the shade, so imagine in the sun! In the end I moved them to the shade just to save on watering. But in your house (I guess) it wouldn't be that hot and I imagine you could get away with watering only once a day . Don't leave them next to (or above) a radiator of course!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Many many thanks. I will try and let you know the results :)
👍🏼
It's that pics from "faedo de ciñera" in León? Not sure but It could be... Regards from León
I love how you communicate in your videos
Muchas gracias! Síííí es el faedo! Tengo ganas de volver para grabar más video ahí...
Por cierto hice otro vídeo en León, en Matallana si te interesa: th-cam.com/video/-8tHJ64HETc/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai claro como no!
Aquí tienes tu casa. León y sus montes pueden ser un lugar de gran inspiración para los aficionados al bonsai. Un saludo
Nice video, my question is: with the poor water retaining soil still in the roots, won't the granular soil dry out quickly needing to be watered more and therefore this will cause the old soil to be constantly wet and rot the roots?
Thanks! Yes that is indeed a risk. But if you originally potted the tree that you're slip-potting then you presumably used good draining soil originally. So I'm not concerned for this olive.
I suppose the big risk is when you do this for a tree from a garden centre nursery and you don't know how bad the old soil is in there. In that case I would only consider slippotting to be an emergency measure until the next spring when you fully repot it with serious root work.
@@BlueSkyBonsai Ah okay thanks for the reply. I just bought myself a garden centre nursery cotoneaster and because I don't know when the first buds opened I don't want to risk repotting it even though it's in bad soil
@@lewisnorden3744 ok, if it was me I would repot it now into good draining soil. If you're worried, keep the leaves humid for a week or so after root pruning, eg. Frequent misting, or put a clear plastic bag over the tree.
Here are two videos that I hope should help you:
10 reasons to repot your bonsai:
th-cam.com/video/eFdWy-MfFrs/w-d-xo.html
25 tips for healthy repotting: th-cam.com/video/tDIRz2YFhfw/w-d-xo.html
@@BlueSkyBonsai thanks a lot for the advice!
Thank you for a nice video. I thought larger soil particles increases drainage causing less water retention. Smaller particles increased total soil surface, Let us know if your tree produced fruit. Olives are pretty easy to cure, I have collected olives trees that are 15 years from wild growing olive trees in California. The town of Woodside south of San Francisco once had large olive orchards. The trees now grow wild along the highway. They have ferocious tap roots but are kind of indestructible compared to other plants. Olives are a great beginner yamadori for those with access to smaller growing trees. Even though I’m only a 20 minute drive from where I dug my olive trees they don’t fruit in San Francisco because it’s so much colder here in the summer. It’s a strange microclimate that changes within short distances.
Cheers.
Thanks for your thoughtful comments! You're right about the surface area of tge particles. But I put larger granules at the bottom to raise the perched water table by half an inch or so, because it gets so hot and dry here in summer, I want to keep the PWT reservoir for a bit longer on those scorching sumner afternoons. I did a video about the PWT if you're interested: th-cam.com/video/Ij5jLgU-ZxY/w-d-xo.html
Yes this olive tree produced a lovely crop of olives last year. If you're on Instagram you can see here: Bumper crop of olives this year 🌱
#olive #olivebonsai #bonsai #blueskybonsai #harvest #crop
instagram.com/p/CVdOeaCjPd9/?
I agree, olives are a wonderful species for bonsai. I also have several wild olives (olea sylvestris) which are also fantastic - smaller leaves but they don't produce fruit.
Would love to visit California someday!
Hi dave, another dave here! I’ve recently got into bonsai and I bought a small bag of bonsai potting mix which contains ‘seramis’ which is apparently good for retaining water etc. It seems to me like ordinary compost but maybe finer ... I’m in Cornwall atm and most of the trees will be staying here in a green house for the winter and outside in the summer. I’m curious what soil you are using here in your video? Is it worth me looking for the granule type soil you’re using? Thanks and I appreciate your videos!
Hi Dave and welcome! Seramis is very good as long as it's granular, not powder.
The powder will clog up all the air gaps and pores between the granules and those air gaps are essential for allowing oxygen down to the roots, and for encouraging root growth. So, even though we buy pre-mixed bonsai soil, I always seive it to get rid of any dust or fine particles. 2mm is the smallest I would use but ideally use 4-5mm soil granules.
My soil is a mix of akadama + pine bark + kiryuzuna (which is a bit like pumice). All seived. I've found the particle size is more important than the exact ingredients of the soil.
One exception: if you have azalea or camelia, they need acidic granular soil, so look for "kanuma" if you have those. HTH!
Love the videos, burning question, l've acquired a few trees over the summer months n l slip potted them into some temporary larger pots using my Bonsai mix, do l water them when the Bonsai mix dictates or when the original soil dictates? Thanks
Thanks!
Don't let the bonsai mix to completely dry out, because you want to encourage new roots to grow in it for the time until your next repotting & root pruning.
If you're talking about outdoor trees, deciduous or coniferous, now in winter you can leave them a bit longer. When your bonsai mix starts to dry you can wait an extra day before watering them. And if it's high humidity out, cold, raining or foggy you can leave them, because the soil shouldn't even dry out.
In spring thru autumn, water as soon as the bonsai mix starts to dry. Same for indoor trees.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you very much for the prompt reply, that's more or less what l'd figured out, good to hear it from someone with a lot more knowledge/experience than myself. My plan for the future if l'm in similar situation is to slip pot them into something much more organic until repotting time, would you agree? l'm in a wet climate in N. Ireland, thanks
@@howardmckeown7187 I can see why you might want to use a soil that has the same absorption as your old compact soil. But personally I would always use granular soil, even for slip-potting. Especially in a wet climate, where drainage is more a priority than retention. Even here in Madrid I use granular mix for slip pots, knowing that I can reuse the soil at a later date. Another advantage is that you can leave it a few years in the bigger pot with granular soil if you want, which removes the pressure to repot it again urgently. The olive in this video more than 3 years ago, is still in that same collander pot, same soil. I'll leave it in there until the day I think the trunk is ready for a ceramic pot again. Maybe another 3 years?? Who knows 😊
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you
Hi watching from the Philippines, just want to ask, is loam soil with crushed eggshells ok as bonsai soil, btw we have here hot and also humid climate so it's a tricky situation lol
I'm not keen on loam, it can clog up the drainage and can hinder the delivery of fresh oxygenated water to the roots. If you can use granular soil like pumice mixed with crushed bark, granules of about 3-5mm then you get more healthy root growth. Akadama and perlite are all good, but I appreciate all these soil types cost more.
That pot is horrific!! Generally love your vids though! I'm also a Dave 😆
Hahaha thanks Dave! Yes that pot is purely for training purposes - big enough to allow significant growth over 2 or 3 years, but with air gaps that prevent roots from circling at the pot edge, and thus promotes more fine roots to develop nearer the trunk base. But I agree the pot is ugly as bell! 🤣
@@BlueSkyBonsaiNo problem with stale air in that pot! Great idea though. Gonna get myself some!
I have a bonsai ficus tree. It’s still in the same small pot that I bought it in. I’ve had it for at least 3 years probably longer. What’s the best soul for this type of tree and can I just repot it in a larger pot so it will grow a bit? Thank you for your video.
Ficus grow well in most soil types. The best in my opinion is akadama becauae of the granular nature and the tiny air gaps that encourage root growth. You can indeed repot it into a bigger pot, but recently I have done some videos on repotting, like "10 reasons to repot your bonsai". I hope these help!
@@BlueSkyBonsai thank you 😊
I have a chinese peoper bonsai which had very dark green glossy leaves and now its leaves turned light green and are ‘t glossy any more?! What should I do?! I used a pesticide from my expert plant shop because it seemed to have some pest but now it’s leaves aand also some fine branches are falling off! Should I try to slip pot?
It’s roots are overgrown and seems healthy but the pot is definitely too small for it
Good idea to slip pot, yes. And don't expect immediate results.. it may take 4-8 weeks before you see an improvement. Don't let the soil dry, but also don't let it stand in a puddle of water.
@@foxinthebox3307 also, more leaves will probably go yellow and fall off over the next few weeks. That happens (it's not caused by slip-potting) But it should recover over time
@@BlueSkyBonsai I just went to another garden center and bought a bonsai pot, a little bigger for slip potting and couldn’t find akadama soil but bought some soil that looks like small pebbles to use as a first layer in the pot. It says it’s a mix of soil that derives from vulcanic rock so I guess it’s better than nothing. Inalso got some bonsai soil mix which I will add to the new pot. Hope that helps. I hope I didn’t kill my tree because I used pesticides....:( I keep watching your chanel and love the videos! Thanks for the advice!
@@foxinthebox3307 thanks, glad you're enjoying the videos.
Volcanic rock, small granules = perfect base. Now, enjoy the repot! It's fun 😊
Very relaxing video. Happy tree
Glad you enjoyed it!
@@BlueSkyBonsai you've slip potted into substrate like that before? With the soil it around the roots being that much different? And the tree is healthy? I ask because I have two juniper cuttings that are becoming root bound in small 3 inch nursery pots the trees are in a more organic soil and I want to slip pot them into tokoname grow pots using my akadama, pumice and kiryu mix with this work
@@BlueSkyBonsai also the tokoname grow pots are only 3 1/4 inches deep compared to the nursery pots are around 5 inches deep. Will it be ok if I have to push it down a bit for it to fit properly depth wise. Or should I fluff the roots or what?
@@xSinister_ yes, many times and it works well. I still haven't repotted that olive tree since slip potting in this video in 2020, and you can see how the tree is looking healthy and fruitful in the last photos in this Flickr album: www.flickr.com/gp/davidhseymour/509SDH8yS7
The last two photos are from yesterday; the previous few are from autumn last year.
I also slip-potted a Mugo Pine into a tokoname pot in autumn 2020, and that is still doing great in the same pot.
But the advantage of the colander is you get more fine roots instead of the winding-round long roots you get in ceramics. In my experience tokonames are great for up to 2 years (depending on the species).
Thank you for your response. I decided to just slip pot them into some plastic 5.5" x 4.5" depth. Because I do want to pot grow them a few years so they get thicker trunks. So I'll stay away from ceramic right now. Maybe in couple years I'll repot into tokoname grow pots then eventually a shallower pot. So just to clarify it should be ok if the soil the tree is in is more of a finer organic soil and using my akadama, pumice and kiryu substrate?
Hi sir, can i plant an olive tree in pure pumice mix without any cactus mix or should I just plant it in ordinary soil? Do roots grow in pumice? I planted my olive bonsais in a mixture of cactus mix and pumice granules but i would like to ask your advice about the soil which should be used. Thanks a lot in advance.
Hi, Pure pumice would be fine as long as the granules are not too big amd not small. I go for about 4-5mm.
And, mixing with cactus mix is also ok as long as you seive out the fine dust so it doesn't block the drainage over time.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thanks for the advice. By the way, i have pumice which is about 2-3 mm. Can i also use them for my olive trees? Thanks
@@richardandrew01 yes it should be fine. Pumice is nicely porous so it stores the water in as well as around the granules. If you used the same size 2-3mm gravel it would be a poor alternative, and you would find yourself having to water it a lot more frequently. Regards from sunny Madrid!
@@BlueSkyBonsai Thank you very much as always for the invaluable and helpful advice. Wished I could come and visit your place to buy some nice olive bonsais when the pandemic ends :) I often use hard-grade Akadama with some pumice granules for my olive trees and am really happy that these trees are very low-maintenance as they hate to be watered often. I really love your olive bonsai and have one which is called acebuche but it seems like it grows slower than its cousin, olea europaea.
El Faedo de Ciñera!!!
Sííííí ! Alicia, has ganado un premio por reconocer el bosque encantado!
I'm curios of the average temperature & humidity where you are. As well as the organic you use in your soil.
I live in the high desert in southeastern Arizona, in the United States.
Today is an average day. It's 11AM, 91 degrees Fahrenheit, with 8% humidity.
We reach temperatures of 108 for extended periods of time in the summer.
You're the only Bonsai TH-camr I have run across who is in a low humidity & high heat situation.
Thanks in advance!!
Hi! It is slightly hotter and drier where you are in the Arizona high desert. Here in Madrid the temperature in May/June can get as high as 95° at the hottest time of day, like 3 or 4pm. The humidity is around 20% at the hottest times but more like 25% average during summer. In July/August we frequently get temperatures over 100°. Of course we measure in Celcius here so 36° is body temperature and I consider over 40° to be too hot.
Do you keep a shade cloth over your bonsai?
@@BlueSkyBonsai They get morning sun, until around 10:30 or so. Past that the sun is brutal here. I'm making an area for my bonsai that I plan to filter the sun with bamboo screen. I used this method over my raised bed garden with good results.
I have joined the closest club I know of in Tucson, but it's three hours away. And they have as many soil recipes are there are members... LOL!
@@dewaynefanchier589 sounds like your trees are in good hands! 👍
hi, what would you recommend for humid and hot weather grain size? thank you!
I live tropical humid weather would be great if there’s some recommendation :)
Hi, good question... I would recommend consistent granules of 4 to 5mm throughout the whole pot. If you have high humidity then there is less water loss due to evaporation so you don't need to layer you soil for high water retention.
@@BlueSkyBonsai thanks for your response. Do you have grow any moss on your bonsai in full sun ?
@@axelris Re. moss - yes I do sometimes grow moss on the bonsai soil in full sun, because it looks nice. Maybe it's not full sun because the bonsai leaves provide shade.
But mostly I prefer not to use moss. It causes a few problems: 1- you can't see when the soil is getting dry underneath. 2- the birds try to eat the little insects in the moss, so they keep pecking the moss off the surface, making a mess and sometimes exposing the roots. 3-when you have moss it's harder to remove unwanted weeds from the soil, like liverwort, pearlwort, grass, etc. these are easier to remove when there is no moss.
But on the good side, moss looks nice, like in a penjing it looks like grass around your tree... it also provides a layer of extra water retention, in case you don't water it enough... but then the roots start growing upwards into the damp moss.
So, for me there is no "right" answer here. Maybe you could try it on one pot and see how you like it?? HTH
Do you have a source/study that shows a larger particle size retains more water, seems counter intuitive and goes against my experience.
It's not that larger granules retain more water; it's that larger granules at the pot base raise the perched water table because water is naturally drawn from larger gaps to smaller gaps by capillary action. Here's a video I did about the perched water table in different depths of pot: th-cam.com/video/Ij5jLgU-ZxY/w-d-xo.html
And the source I originally learnt it from was the book "Modern Bonsai Practice: 501 Principles of Good Bonsai Horticulture". In the description of the pot depths video, there is a link to the book on Amazon (sorry it's not cheap!)
what is your "top dressing"?
I use top dressing of small particles (2mm) of akadama and kiryuzuna mixed 50/50. It helps wick up the moisture at the surface for longer before it dries, which helps me in this hot dry climate. But again, I think you don't need that in Canada.
What is the best way to grow Bonsai this way or the potting way Please?
Big pot for fastest growth. This air pot fot best root development. Big pot makes root work more tricky in the future. HTH
Thks for your reply mate.
And the Fastest the Growth the Thicken the Trunk will be wright?
@@bobbymalta73 correct!
Where i live is weird, the ground is dry, the air is hot and humid, but very little rain. Usually 80-90% humidity and 100 degrees 😅
You'll probably find the best bonsai for yu are the tree species that thrive in the wild in your climate.
@@BlueSkyBonsai that's mostly what I've been doing. I did acquire a dawn redwood from a neighbor that has them growing in her yard. It's beautiful
@@jamaxk1373 also there are some species that cope with pretty much any conditions on earth! Like chinese elms
You’ll be great with ficus (fig tree try willow leaf ficus or tiger bark ficus) and Chinese elms. Dawn redwood sounds awesome very jealous. Juniper *MAY* work for you also.
@Christian_Bonsai it is definitely the jewel of my collection. It's about 15 years old and I'll be shaping it over the next few years.
Hi, and thank you for a great explanation, especially the part about considering climate variations. I am quite new at this hobby, planning for my retirement in 15-20 years :-) But, I have a request that I need you to do if you want me to subscribe (or rather, if you want me not to unsubscribe) - please stop adding background music to your videos.
Thanks for your great feedback!
It will be a hobby that is capable of keeping you happy for the rest of your working years and your retirement.
Maybe to help me understand the issue with the background music, is it because the choice of music is inappropriate, or not to your liking? Or too loud and distracting maybe? Thank you!
@@BlueSkyBonsai It is not really about what music you play, but in my opinion it is unnecessary noice. Your 30 sec intro and bloopers at the end (the azalea episode) are great, but background music while you talk is just disturbing. But thats just me. Keep up the good work!
@@Hw0rg3n thanks again, I appreciate you taking the time to write your feedback. Good to know. Maybe I should reduce the volume to virtually zero while I'm talking.
I do like the whiteboard style music for those whiteboard sessions though 🤔
Hi @@Hw0rg3n , I've thought of a way to do this. Some viewers like the background music and some don't like it. So I have set up an alternative channel on Patreon where I have zero background music during the main content of the video, while I'm talking. Only music at the start and end, like you said. I used Patreon as it will also allow me to do "videos on request" in the future. I am *not* intending to make money from doing this; it is purely my hobby. So I have pledged to donate every cent from Patreon to charity; specifically three charities (Cancer, Alzheimers and Save the children).
In this way, you could see my videos without background music, for whatever price you decide to donate, as little as $1, and you'll know your donation would be going to a good cause. Is this a model that would work for you? I'm just trying out the options at the moment. You can see my patreon here: www.patreon.com/blueskybonsai
Please let me know... thanks!
Amazing video! But put your collar back down xD
The collar must stay popped. It's in the contract 😉