Hello Jack from Ireland, I was in the wood with Dave for a short while today and the difference in the 500i from stock is amazing! and the 357 is a super job 👍 fair play to ya
Eoin hi. Nice. That is on my bucket list as well. (Supervisory day with Dave,,, in your country, lol) Glad I was able to help. I think for what Dave has going on, the 500i is a good mo-chine. The "little saw that could" is no slouch for a 60cc class saw. I'm glad it was well recieved. Thanks for watching.
Looks like a lot of E. Wa sites, with all that P. Pine. When they cut wood that big in E. Wa they have to leave the bottom of the stem because none of these mills are equipped to take big stuff anymore.
Russ hi. This is N.E. Oregon, so about the same. Lame-O... As the bigger wood goes away, the mills get more specialized for the little stuff and more narrow blades, lol. Sometime they just leave the fun trees (big) standing. Thanks for watching.
I'm convinced that one of these days I'll hear you utter the words that your chain grind is perfect for the application! Ha, just kidding, I know it's rare to get it spot-on! That saw 'rips,' weird tho that it always seems to stop, lean!
Allan hi. In a lot of the saw-off videos from the last year, year and a ½ I would say that the chain is pretty dialed in during the Standard 661 vs Mr. Green's 660 I'd say. BUT,,, I've had a lot time to get it/them perfected. It's always a bit of crapp shoot when going to a new area on day 1 falling. It usually takes me a few days to get them terrorizing, lol. Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 Thanks for the response, Jack, I WAS just teasing you a bit! Always appreciate and learn something from your videos, so thank you! Lord Bless!!
Adam O hi. No O2 sensor. The M-tronic system has a duel magnet arraignment on the flywheel - opposing at 180°. The controller (what use to be the ignition module or coil on the older saws) monitors the engine speed via the frequency at which the two magnets pass by the poles on the controller. The controller has an internal fuel map based on crank speed. It sends a signal to the fuel servo (solenoid) in the carburetor that controls the amount of fuel being dumped into the circuit. That's the gist of it. Thanks for watching.
so i've noticed your lack of loyalty to bars as well as power heads, curious if you have a favorite bar manufacture, or is it as simple as what you can get when you need it.
Northman hi. I use which version, of anything, that I think is best suited to the conditions I'm working in. If you are not a thrasher, the Stihl lw bars do pretty good all around. I think the Tsue bars are a little better but they are also a little heavier. So it is back the application. Thaks for watching.
Hey Jack, you don’t seem to do a lot of echo stuff but I’m torn between the echo 501p and the husky 550xp mk2. I’m a climber and would be using a 20in bar on these when the 14 on my 200t isn’t enough. I’m not a stihl guy really and will probably replace my 200t with a t540 or a 355t soon. But what would your opinion be on the 550xp mk2 vs the 501p or do you recommend another 50cc saw to pull a 20in bar that’s not the 261? Also it’ll probably remain stock with the exception of a muffler mod after break in. Thanks jack if you find the time to respond. I love the videos and especially the bench talks. Have a blessed day.
Kenneth hi. I've looked into the 590 & 620 a little. I will get around to posting sometime in the future. I'd look at the 550 pre Mark ll and zipp that saw for use in a tree personally. The 550 ll gained .7 of a pound while only gaining .3 hp. Seems to be physically bigger than the old version 550 too. Neither of those "qualities" are a "in tree friendly" attributes imho. Both are air injection saws. The 501p can they be made to run great, surely, but, I've never had one a part. Pretty lightweight when compared to the 620 being portly for a 60cc saw. The Makita 50cc saw has pretty good power but it is on the heavy side too. The earlier version 550, zipped, might just be the saw to beat in the application you have. Thanks for watching.
Stoney hi. Yes and no. There are great, and no so, things about most saws. The 500i is no exception. I noticed that it gets really poor fuel mileage once zipped. Chasing the gas jug is not productive for a busheler, or faller in general. The stock spring mounts are spongy as well. No long bars then lest you tear out the mounts. Great arboists saw for chucking imho. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the short review, they sell really quick over here, have only ever seen one on the shelf, always seem to be on back order, but not long after someone buys one, they seem to sell it, maybe not that happy? I’ll just stick with my O series saws... Cheers mate, Stoney...
Joe A hi. If your asking if I drink and then fell timber, the answer is no. If your asking if I, like anyone else falling timber out on the West Coast steps on roots, limbs, rocks, old chunks, in holes, etc., etc., have to "reevaluate" my positioning based on my foot or feet shifting, then yes. I do not remember anything out of the ordinary happening here. Thanks for watching.
He might have just been thinking you are usually on some pretty steep ground. This day must have been a treat being open and flat. Thanks for posting these.
S & S hi. I think it will boil down to personal preference for the guy imho. There is no question the 500i has more power if that is the only criteria. The 572 is a little more stable with a longer bar I think. Trade-offs in this life... Thanks for watching.
I just bought a 362 and all the mounts feel very squishy to me as well. Any thoughts on a remedy would be greatly appreciated. I'm no timber cutter, just been feeding a woodstove my whole life, this is actually my first modern saw, been running used hand me downs for 30 yrs. Sure appreciate all your videos thanks for taking us along. God bless from Washington.
Charles hi. I always thought the "upside" was the saw's top, or cylinder cover. Like when driving a car. Want the wheels side down, lol. Because the ground is not; pancake flat, not broken up - long - it is choppy at times, it is very steep at times, the trees have to go different directions in the same strip in an attempt to save them out, etc. In essence, you "gotta" come at them from the top, bottom front, back, any combination, only one at times. A ½ wrap equipped saw is a liability in a West Coast yarder block and even in all but one or two of the cat units on the NorCal Coast. The ½ wrap configuration will get a guy maimed, or even killed, felling timber on the Left Coast of America Thanks for watching.
Oh here we go. The ground can be a lot different on the West Coast. You would have to spend years felling timber in the Pacific North West to have seen what I'm referring to there. From what I've seen, the "European cutters" run pretty short bars also. I cannot even count high enough to get the number of trees I've felled that could only be reached from the uphill side with a 3' bar. Unless of course you are talking about draggin' an bunch of staging boards, springboards, drivers, etc. all over the hill side. Surely it is a waste of your time to be watching anything I have going on...
@@hotsaws101 to explain in simple terms what I was saying , you made the guide notch with what I meant by saw upside down ! Why when you cut the felling side the right way up , why can’t you do both the same way ! SIMPLES ,it just looks so awkward .
Charles, buddy - The up side of the saw is the cylinder cover since that is how they are placed on the ground, tank side down for storage, travel, etc..
West Coasters use the saw, and this especially on the NorCal Coast, in any orientation they can to get the tree on the ground. Unless you've felled timber in the Pacific Northwest, that probably doesn't make complete since. There are sights for gunning a tree on both the clutch cover and recoil assembly (pull starter cover) of all the professional saws that I know of. So in essence, on both the left & right sides of the saws. The engineers know that operators will come at a tree from either side in an attempt to fell it. Technically speaking, if the guide bar is going into the bole of a tree that is standing perpendicular to the ground the saw is on one of it's sides. Either the left or the right side. Because an operator will grab the pistol grip from tank orientation with the right hand a majority of the time, that is considered the back of the saw. By default then because of the saw position, the right side of a saw is the clutch/pto/drive side of the mo-chine. That is considered clutch side (right) side up Hope this helps.
George hi. Because it is in a water proof case that also keeps the dust out. This is so you can have a clear view as to what is happening. Thanks for watching.
Sergey hi. Have a gyppo father that logs. Start chasing landing @ 14. Spend a lifetime working in and around the woods with a heavy lean toward the falling discipline . Understand a little bit about mechanics as well as physics in a practical sense. Be blessed with a certain type of intellect and then be put in a place that fully tests it. Make a whole lot of mistakes in multiple decades as you perfect your bag-o-tricks. Have God smile upon you with a few good friends like my buddy Dave in Ireland also. Most people just call it being lucky I think. Thanks for watching.
who taught you how to fall a tree??? the stump should be no more than 2 inches from ground level if your pro... damn near have a firewood roller sticking up. cool saw though...
Daniel hi. Obviously you have no experience in this neck of the woods. For the other viewers - It's impossible to get a 2" stump with a saw sporting a WEST COAST wrap set of bars.... Unless of course a guy is sawing from the down hill side (if said guy can even reach...). Ummm, that is bad practice in a yarder block. Also, because of the ground contour in a lot of places, you are allowed a 12" stump height in most places. On steep nasty ground if your stumps are not 2' or higher you end up losing a lot of trees to the deep dark bottom. Now enter the bole swell at the base. Unless your a west coasty, that probably doesn't mean much, sorry. Some cutting prescriptions actually call for higher stumps due to the butt shape. In Redwood country on the NorCal Coast, I've made 10 & 12' stumps because of the way the trees grow, the ground contour, all the old stumps, and-or debris piled up everywhere. Back to Daniel - to bad your just looking to make a stink. Might of been able to learn something otherwise..... Thanks for watching everyone.
I was born and half raised in Enterprise. Love that type of ground. Thanks for sharing.
Dude I’m in the trade and I think you’re the best on you tube.
Love it. Can’t wait to get out in the bush and use my 500i again.🙏
Hello Jack from Ireland, I was in the wood with Dave for a short while today and the difference in the 500i from stock is amazing! and the 357 is a super job 👍 fair play to ya
Eoin hi.
Nice. That is on my bucket list as well. (Supervisory day with Dave,,, in your country, lol)
Glad I was able to help.
I think for what Dave has going on, the 500i is a good mo-chine.
The "little saw that could" is no slouch for a 60cc class saw. I'm glad it was well recieved.
Thanks for watching.
I love the whole logging action!!! Great vid!!!
Flat open ground... what a change that would be.
Bob hi. East, head East my friend.
Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed your limbing and the reaming process
Looks like a lot of E. Wa sites, with all that P. Pine. When they cut wood that big in E. Wa they have to leave the bottom of the stem because none of these mills are equipped to take big stuff anymore.
Russ hi. This is N.E. Oregon, so about the same. Lame-O... As the bigger wood goes away, the mills get more specialized for the little stuff and more narrow blades, lol. Sometime they just leave the fun trees (big) standing.
Thanks for watching.
I really like the exhaust tone when it cleans up, these things sound horrendous stock IMO.
That saw reminds me of the big plant in little shop of horrors..."FEED ME SEYMORE!"
master classs work sir
Good work! God. Bless!
I'm convinced that one of these days I'll hear you utter the words that your chain grind is perfect for the application! Ha, just kidding, I know it's rare to get it spot-on! That saw 'rips,' weird tho that it always seems to stop, lean!
Allan hi. In a lot of the saw-off videos from the last year, year and a ½ I would say that the chain is pretty dialed in during the Standard 661 vs Mr. Green's 660 I'd say. BUT,,, I've had a lot time to get it/them perfected.
It's always a bit of crapp shoot when going to a new area on day 1 falling. It usually takes me a few days to get them terrorizing, lol.
Thanks for watching.
In the Humboldt vs modified Humboldt video. That chain worked pretty good.
@@hotsaws101 Thanks for the response, Jack, I WAS just teasing you a bit! Always appreciate and learn something from your videos, so thank you! Lord Bless!!
Have you tried swapping the front av spring from a 661?
I was looking for one of your olds videos where you hide in a little ‘cave’ during the fell. How could I find that?
Search for danger cat
Douglas-fir in this forest? Mount Harris in central Oregon?
Can you show tuning a blubbering FI power saw pls....
yourneck2 hi. As far as I know there is not a tuning regiment on the 500i like with the 462, 661, etc.
Thanks for watching.
Hi jack is it a possibility to swap some of the springs from a 661 onto the 500 to make it more" rigid " or might this be a overcompensation.
Do those saws have an O2 sensor to adjust fuel for your modifications or do you have to tune it manually somehow?
Adam O hi.
No O2 sensor.
The M-tronic system has a duel magnet arraignment on the flywheel - opposing at 180°. The controller (what use to be the ignition module or coil on the older saws) monitors the engine speed via the frequency at which the two magnets pass by the poles on the controller.
The controller has an internal fuel map based on crank speed. It sends a signal to the fuel servo (solenoid) in the carburetor that controls the amount of fuel being dumped into the circuit.
That's the gist of it.
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101you bet. I love your videos!! Thanks for the explanation. I’ve never heard of a system like that.
Legend.
so i've noticed your lack of loyalty to bars as well as power heads, curious if you have a favorite bar manufacture, or is it as simple as what you can get when you need it.
Northman hi.
I use which version, of anything, that I think is best suited to the conditions I'm working in.
If you are not a thrasher, the Stihl lw bars do pretty good all around. I think the Tsue bars are a little better but they are also a little heavier.
So it is back the application.
Thaks for watching.
Hey Jack, you don’t seem to do a lot of echo stuff but I’m torn between the echo 501p and the husky 550xp mk2. I’m a climber and would be using a 20in bar on these when the 14 on my 200t isn’t enough. I’m not a stihl guy really and will probably replace my 200t with a t540 or a 355t soon. But what would your opinion be on the 550xp mk2 vs the 501p or do you recommend another 50cc saw to pull a 20in bar that’s not the 261? Also it’ll probably remain stock with the exception of a muffler mod after break in. Thanks jack if you find the time to respond. I love the videos and especially the bench talks. Have a blessed day.
Kenneth hi.
I've looked into the 590 & 620 a little. I will get around to posting sometime in the future.
I'd look at the 550 pre Mark ll and zipp that saw for use in a tree personally. The 550 ll gained .7 of a pound while only gaining .3 hp. Seems to be physically bigger than the old version 550 too. Neither of those "qualities" are a "in tree friendly" attributes imho.
Both are air injection saws.
The 501p can they be made to run great, surely, but, I've never had one a part. Pretty lightweight when compared to the 620 being portly for a 60cc saw.
The Makita 50cc saw has pretty good power but it is on the heavy side too.
The earlier version 550, zipped, might just be the saw to beat in the application you have.
Thanks for watching.
Do you hand file at all??
Tom hi. On the fly clean up at this point.
Thanks for watching.
Man you gotta pump it every start huh?
Hi mate, great video as usual, it’s looks very dry up there, are you liking the 500? Cheers Stoney...
Stoney hi.
Yes and no. There are great, and no so, things about most saws. The 500i is no exception.
I noticed that it gets really poor fuel mileage once zipped. Chasing the gas jug is not productive for a busheler, or faller in general.
The stock spring mounts are spongy as well. No long bars then lest you tear out the mounts.
Great arboists saw for chucking imho.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the short review, they sell really quick over here, have only ever seen one on the shelf, always seem to be on back order, but not long after someone buys one, they seem to sell it, maybe not that happy? I’ll just stick with my O series saws... Cheers mate, Stoney...
are you off balance on that flat ground sir?
Joe A hi. If your asking if I drink and then fell timber, the answer is no.
If your asking if I, like anyone else falling timber out on the West Coast steps on roots, limbs, rocks, old chunks, in holes, etc., etc., have to "reevaluate" my positioning based on my foot or feet shifting, then yes.
I do not remember anything out of the ordinary happening here.
Thanks for watching.
He might have just been thinking you are usually on some pretty steep ground. This day must have been a treat being open and flat. Thanks for posting these.
500i or the 572xp??
S & S hi. I think it will boil down to personal preference for the guy imho.
There is no question the 500i has more power if that is the only criteria.
The 572 is a little more stable with a longer bar I think.
Trade-offs in this life...
Thanks for watching.
10:33 bucking
I just bought a 362 and all the mounts feel very squishy to me as well. Any thoughts on a remedy would be greatly appreciated. I'm no timber cutter, just been feeding a woodstove my whole life, this is actually my first modern saw, been running used hand me downs for 30 yrs. Sure appreciate all your videos thanks for taking us along. God bless from Washington.
Can never understand why you guys across the pond cut with the bar on the upside , hence you need wraparound bars !
Charles hi.
I always thought the "upside" was the saw's top, or cylinder cover. Like when driving a car. Want the wheels side down, lol.
Because the ground is not; pancake flat, not broken up - long - it is choppy at times, it is very steep at times, the trees have to go different directions in the same strip in an attempt to save them out, etc.
In essence, you "gotta" come at them from the top, bottom front, back, any combination, only one at times. A ½ wrap equipped saw is a liability in a West Coast yarder block and even in all but one or two of the cat units on the NorCal Coast. The ½ wrap configuration will get a guy maimed, or even killed, felling timber on the Left Coast of America
Thanks for watching.
@@hotsaws101 watch some European cutters , you’ll see what I mean , and no dead men among them !
Oh here we go.
The ground can be a lot different on the West Coast. You would have to spend years felling timber in the Pacific North West to have seen what I'm referring to there.
From what I've seen, the "European cutters" run pretty short bars also.
I cannot even count high enough to get the number of trees I've felled that could only be reached from the uphill side with a 3' bar. Unless of course you are talking about draggin' an bunch of staging boards, springboards, drivers, etc. all over the hill side.
Surely it is a waste of your time to be watching anything I have going on...
@@hotsaws101 to explain in simple terms what I was saying , you made the guide notch with what I meant by saw upside down ! Why when you cut the felling side the right way up , why can’t you do both the same way ! SIMPLES ,it just looks so awkward .
Charles, buddy - The up side of the saw is the cylinder cover since that is how they are placed on the ground, tank side down for storage, travel, etc..
West Coasters use the saw, and this especially on the NorCal Coast, in any orientation they can to get the tree on the ground. Unless you've felled timber in the Pacific Northwest, that probably doesn't make complete since.
There are sights for gunning a tree on both the clutch cover and recoil assembly (pull starter cover) of all the professional saws that I know of. So in essence, on both the left & right sides of the saws. The engineers know that operators will come at a tree from either side in an attempt to fell it.
Technically speaking, if the guide bar is going into the bole of a tree that is standing perpendicular to the ground the saw is on one of it's sides. Either the left or the right side.
Because an operator will grab the pistol grip from tank orientation with the right hand a majority of the time, that is considered the back of the saw. By default then because of the saw position, the right side of a saw is the clutch/pto/drive side of the mo-chine. That is considered clutch side (right) side up
Hope this helps.
WHY DOES YOUR MICROPHONE ALWAYS SOUND MUTED...
George hi. Because it is in a water proof case that also keeps the dust out. This is so you can have a clear view as to what is happening.
Thanks for watching.
How do I get your job
Sergey hi. Have a gyppo father that logs. Start chasing landing @ 14. Spend a lifetime working in and around the woods with a heavy lean toward the falling discipline . Understand a little bit about mechanics as well as physics in a practical sense. Be blessed with a certain type of intellect and then be put in a place that fully tests it. Make a whole lot of mistakes in multiple decades as you perfect your bag-o-tricks.
Have God smile upon you with a few good friends like my buddy Dave in Ireland also.
Most people just call it being lucky I think.
Thanks for watching.
👌👌👌💪💪
Why do people play with the throttle so much, especially when in the wood? It seems to serve no purpose.
A capacitor and an injector of some sort to delete that stupid primer bulb!
who taught you how to fall a tree???
the stump should be no more than 2 inches from ground level if your pro... damn near have a firewood roller sticking up.
cool saw though...
Daniel hi. Obviously you have no experience in this neck of the woods.
For the other viewers -
It's impossible to get a 2" stump with a saw sporting a WEST COAST wrap set of bars.... Unless of course a guy is sawing from the down hill side (if said guy can even reach...). Ummm, that is bad practice in a yarder block.
Also, because of the ground contour in a lot of places, you are allowed a 12" stump height in most places.
On steep nasty ground if your stumps are not 2' or higher you end up losing a lot of trees to the deep dark bottom.
Now enter the bole swell at the base. Unless your a west coasty, that probably doesn't mean much, sorry. Some cutting prescriptions actually call for higher stumps due to the butt shape.
In Redwood country on the NorCal Coast, I've made 10 & 12' stumps because of the way the trees grow, the ground contour, all the old stumps, and-or debris piled up everywhere.
Back to Daniel - to bad your just looking to make a stink. Might of been able to learn something otherwise.....
Thanks for watching everyone.