I always clamped the work while tapping to reduce breaking taps. With very small taps I put the tap in a small drill press and turn the chuck by hand. That keeps the tap square to the work and reduces the bending that breaks taps.
Excellent workmanship. Very informative. I share a cautionary note for this step! When transferring the tapped cylinder holes locations through the cylinder head clearance holes, remember to orient the heads so the bolt holes miss the drain cock holes! Did this once. Enjoy your videos.
as a beginner to model making I would like to say you have some of the best and well explained videos I have come across on you tube.kind regards,will.
Those 7ba taps are very easy to break. Especially if you buy cheap ones! I can tell you from experience that if you do that you can get them out with a 2mm tungsten end mill. But the best idea is to not buy cheap taps from India! Super video Keith.
I never ever thought of the loctite 603 tip as glue ... thanks ! I seldom watch workshop vids but may i suggest withdrawing the drill a couple of times per hole to minimise possible binding and achieve as 'close' a hole size as possible. Dunno if you mention it elsewhere but personally I never use a twist drill as it come out of the packet, always doctored for better results. Sorry to be a clever-dick, I've done masses of small hole / high tol work as pricework for a living. I would also place some importance on alignment of the chest re centrelines. Well done, good voiceover.
Keith, how do you be sure the valve rod is parallel to the cylinder bore, as most castings wouldn't be close enough to just "eyeball" the chest in place.
+Worcester Exchange I find Cast Iron has enough graphite in it to not require any lubricant. Industrial Cutting lubricant can be very nasty stuff to have in a home workshop.
Keith Appleton I work in full size boilers for power generation. When milling tubes, drilling holes etc. in stainless, carbon and other alloys, we use dish soap (I think you call this washing up liquid) and water in a spray bottle. To my knowledge, we do this so oil doesn’t get in the tubes for different reasons from welding, preventing carryover and to avoid hot spots in tubes. We also do a boil out on the boiler with different chemicals depending on what the boiler is made of, but fairly often we just use regular Tide powdered laundry detergent. Just thought some people might think this is interesting. :)
Keith... I'm machining a s50 and I have bored out my cylinder and the piston slides well in it. But the valve holes are not all the way through into the cylinder. what should I do about it? is the casting faulty? cheers, Ben
the "valve holes" do not go all the way through to the cylinder - you have to drill steam ways to the inner edges of the cylinder bore - just look on your drawing ......
Keith Appleton is there any chance you have made a video where you drill the steam ways? I just got an S50 kit and I can’t find any videos showing this. Thank you so much for your videos!
On the cylinder steam chest, one of the studs you've drilled and tapped is directly in line with the side exhaust port which must mean that the stud had almost zero depth to screw into! Is this a design error or did you locate the stud in the incorrect position?
I haven't seen any suppliers with bottoming taps in BA, if you really need to thread to the bottom of a blind hole a plug tap. I've bought plug taps from from spitfire2015UK on ebay (Peninsula Steam) and then Tracy Tools and gotten what I call 2nd taps. I think I'll grind the point off and 1 thread
You mention a taper tap, second tap, and plug tap. In the US taps come in sets of three as taper tap, plug tap, and bottoming tap. Is your "plug tap" the same as our "bottoming tap"?
'Free hand' tapping of holes is not ideal, you could have rigged up the cylinder in a pillar drill and started the tap by putting it in the drill chuck, obviously rotating the chuck by hand.
I can't believe this video is free. Excellent quality!
I always clamped the work while tapping to reduce breaking taps. With very small taps I put the tap in a small drill press and turn the chuck by hand. That keeps the tap square to the work and reduces the bending that breaks taps.
Please watch a few more of my videos, I show that principle many times . . . .
Excellent workmanship. Very informative. I share a cautionary note for this step! When transferring the tapped cylinder holes locations through the cylinder head clearance holes, remember to orient the heads so the bolt holes miss the drain cock holes! Did this once.
Enjoy your videos.
Thankyou Keith. As usual, succinct, informative and unpretentious.
as a beginner to model making I would like to say you have some of the best and well explained videos I have come across on you tube.kind regards,will.
Very informative video Keith. I liked the Loctite tip. I will use that one in the future.
Thanks for the info- Fred
I always find it useful Keith.
Thanks for putting so many on.
Enjoying the Garret now at Steam Workshop
Unfortunately I no longer work at the Steam Workshop - so the Garrett project ends here. I will explain why in a video very shortly ....... }:-)))
Keith Appleton I enjoyed it all anyway.Very helpfull
Carry on machining!
}:-)))
Those 7ba taps are very easy to break. Especially if you buy cheap ones! I can tell you from experience that if you do that you can get them out with a 2mm tungsten end mill. But the best idea is to not buy cheap taps from India!
Super video Keith.
Good stuff mate,im getting there slowly lol.
I never ever thought of the loctite 603 tip as glue ... thanks !
I seldom watch workshop vids but may i suggest withdrawing the drill a couple of times per hole to minimise possible binding and achieve as 'close' a hole size as possible. Dunno if you mention it elsewhere but personally I never use a twist drill as it come out of the packet, always doctored for better results. Sorry to be a clever-dick, I've done masses of small hole / high tol work as pricework for a living. I would also place some importance on alignment of the chest re centrelines. Well done, good voiceover.
Lo ethe way you describe your video even a machines like me has learned a thing or two.....thank u
Keith, how do you be sure the valve rod is parallel to the cylinder bore, as most castings wouldn't be close enough to just "eyeball" the chest in place.
I do it by eye, but you could always push in a bit of steel the same diameter as the valve rod and measure it ......
Do you use any lubricant when machining, drilling and tapping cast iron or is it self lubricating?
+Worcester Exchange I find Cast Iron has enough graphite in it to not require any lubricant. Industrial Cutting lubricant can be very nasty stuff to have in a home workshop.
Keith Appleton I work in full size boilers for power generation. When milling tubes, drilling holes etc. in stainless, carbon and other alloys, we use dish soap (I think you call this washing up liquid) and water in a spray bottle. To my knowledge, we do this so oil doesn’t get in the tubes for different reasons from welding, preventing carryover and to avoid hot spots in tubes. We also do a boil out on the boiler with different chemicals depending on what the boiler is made of, but fairly often we just use regular Tide powdered laundry detergent. Just thought some people might think this is interesting. :)
Keith... I'm machining a s50 and I have bored out my cylinder and the piston slides well in it. But the valve holes are not all the way through into the cylinder. what should I do about it? is the casting faulty? cheers,
Ben
the "valve holes" do not go all the way through to the cylinder - you have to drill steam ways to the inner edges of the cylinder bore - just look on your drawing ......
+Keith Appleton Ah cheers! I'll have a look when I get home.
thanks from Sheffield,
Ben
Keith Appleton is there any chance you have made a video where you drill the steam ways? I just got an S50 kit and I can’t find any videos showing this. Thank you so much for your videos!
On the cylinder steam chest, one of the studs you've drilled and tapped is directly in line with the side exhaust port which must mean that the stud had almost zero depth to screw into! Is this a design error or did you locate the stud in the incorrect position?
There is plenty of depth available at that point. The video distorts the perspective.
Keith Appleton Excellent Keith. Thank you.
This is real good.
I haven't seen any suppliers with bottoming taps in BA, if you really need to thread to the bottom of a blind hole a plug tap. I've bought plug taps from from spitfire2015UK on ebay (Peninsula Steam) and then Tracy Tools and gotten what I call 2nd taps. I think I'll grind the point off and 1 thread
that's what I often do.
Very good
I want to make home made engine sir .l got inspiration from this video in india
I never knew a three stage tap is best practice!
I like the MiniCraft Drill. Slick.
You mention a taper tap, second tap, and plug tap. In the US taps come in sets of three as taper tap, plug tap, and bottoming tap. Is your "plug tap" the same as our "bottoming tap"?
Yes, I guess so .....
'Free hand' tapping of holes is not ideal, you could have rigged up the cylinder in a pillar drill and started the tap by putting it in the drill chuck, obviously rotating the chuck by hand.
Yes I know. But these instructions are for beginners who need to get their "Eye" in .....
Hells teeth Keith, do you EVER make a video that isn't bloody fascinating???? Best Regards from an ex-Biological Scientist!
}:-)))