Jeff, I'm really glad you made this video. I've been banging my head against the wall for months over this exact problem. You know I fish where you fish and so often, especially in the more highly vegetated areas, my $4,500 starts-of-the-art, super-duper, Power Pole Move motor is nearly useless. I've spent an hour measuring every trolling motor at Bass Pro and all of the salt water models are at least 12" from top of propeller blade to the bottom of skeg, and the Power Pole Move is 11.5". So it's pretty easy to see you need at least a foot to use one of those. I noticed when I was at Bass Pro the only option that looked like it would be a significant upgrade would be the smallest fresh water tiller models, and even better one with a 3 blade prop. Unfortunately I can't think of a really good way to mount that style of motor to my skiff. But you have inspired me to think about it some more.
I've been wondering how that Move motor was going to work for you. The thing to remember is that trolling motors and products like Power Poles or Talons have always been designed with the freshwater bass fishing market in mind. That is where the vast majority of the market lies, so saltwater versions of these products are just derivatives of their freshwater cousins, and were never really designed for something like shallow saltwater inshore fishing. They make them hardier, with stainless components and more salt-resistant coatings, but they're still essentially the same product. That's why you hear so many fishing guides and TV spokespersons saying you can't use trolling motors for inshore fishing, or suggesting things like your Power Pole Move or a high end, super expensive push pole. They're only going to recommend their sponsor's latest and greatest products, not some old, cheap $100 Endura.
@@JeffHammerFishing You are correct in so many ways. What we do is a very small segment of the fishing industry. Ironically I think we have the toughest assignment for a trolling motor from the need to be truly silent (i've never seen a bass spook from noise), ultra shallow running, corrosion resistant, weed resistant, and tough enough to bounce of oysters and rocks. But I am intrigued by your setup and want to find a way to experiment with it. The motors are so cheap there is no reason not to give a try.
Ah ha!! I was very curious how you were able to maneuver with a trolling motor and still catch fish in that area. GREAT TIPS!!! Those fish are very skittish so this proves your point.
True! Yet I can still get right up on them and usually what ends up spooking them is not the sound of the motor running but me shutting off the trolling motor. That slight change in ambient sound will sometimes send them running.
I started on a Minn Kota Endura 30/30. I tried a few others including the saltwater series but eventually returned to the Endura 30/30. In addition to what you stated. Three things make it super useful. 1) I can spin the head around for bow use. 2) I can buy a longer shaft from Minn Kota and extend the high for ease of use. 3) It stands up well to use in saltwater.
Part 2 will have a lot of this covered Tom, but I did forget to mention spinning the head, although I do talk about replacing the head bolt. I'll have to throw a caption in about that. I do mention that I used to use the 24lb minn kotas, but they stopped making those.
i have a bow mount tiller from newport. I have it on a 16 ft griff craft (stump knocker ). it works great in 4 to 6 inches of water as well. The only thing that would make it better would be a variable speed control. When floundering it runs a tad to fast in lowest speed. something to consider when you purchase a trolling motor
Yes, the infinitely variable speed control is a nice feature. There certainly are times where I'd like to run just a little slower or faster than the presets allow, but I've found that by tilting the motor you can also diminish speed slightly, since you're thrusting more downward than straight back.
Jeff, I'm really glad you made this video. I've been banging my head against the wall for months over this exact problem. You know I fish where you fish and so often, especially in the more highly vegetated areas, my $4,500 starts-of-the-art, super-duper, Power Pole Move motor is nearly useless. I've spent an hour measuring every trolling motor at Bass Pro and all of the salt water models are at least 12" from top of propeller blade to the bottom of skeg, and the Power Pole Move is 11.5". So it's pretty easy to see you need at least a foot to use one of those. I noticed when I was at Bass Pro the only option that looked like it would be a significant upgrade would be the smallest fresh water tiller models, and even better one with a 3 blade prop. Unfortunately I can't think of a really good way to mount that style of motor to my skiff. But you have inspired me to think about it some more.
I've been wondering how that Move motor was going to work for you. The thing to remember is that trolling motors and products like Power Poles or Talons have always been designed with the freshwater bass fishing market in mind. That is where the vast majority of the market lies, so saltwater versions of these products are just derivatives of their freshwater cousins, and were never really designed for something like shallow saltwater inshore fishing. They make them hardier, with stainless components and more salt-resistant coatings, but they're still essentially the same product. That's why you hear so many fishing guides and TV spokespersons saying you can't use trolling motors for inshore fishing, or suggesting things like your Power Pole Move or a high end, super expensive push pole. They're only going to recommend their sponsor's latest and greatest products, not some old, cheap $100 Endura.
@@JeffHammerFishing You are correct in so many ways. What we do is a very small segment of the fishing industry. Ironically I think we have the toughest assignment for a trolling motor from the need to be truly silent (i've never seen a bass spook from noise), ultra shallow running, corrosion resistant, weed resistant, and tough enough to bounce of oysters and rocks. But I am intrigued by your setup and want to find a way to experiment with it. The motors are so cheap there is no reason not to give a try.
Ah ha!! I was very curious how you were able to maneuver with a trolling motor and still catch fish in that area. GREAT TIPS!!! Those fish are very skittish so this proves your point.
True! Yet I can still get right up on them and usually what ends up spooking them is not the sound of the motor running but me shutting off the trolling motor. That slight change in ambient sound will sometimes send them running.
I started on a Minn Kota Endura 30/30. I tried a few others including the saltwater series but eventually returned to the Endura 30/30. In addition to what you stated. Three things make it super useful. 1) I can spin the head around for bow use. 2) I can buy a longer shaft from Minn Kota and extend the high for ease of use. 3) It stands up well to use in saltwater.
Part 2 will have a lot of this covered Tom, but I did forget to mention spinning the head, although I do talk about replacing the head bolt. I'll have to throw a caption in about that. I do mention that I used to use the 24lb minn kotas, but they stopped making those.
Thanks, Jeff! Looking to part 2 and the modifications you put in use.
Coming soon. Shortly after I finish this week's fishing report.
I 100% agree with everything and it’s the exact reason why I use the same set up on my gheenoe 👍🏻
Thanks! Hopefully part 2 has some tricks in it you haven't thought of.
i have a bow mount tiller from newport. I have it on a 16 ft griff craft (stump knocker ). it works great in 4 to 6 inches of water as well. The only thing that would make it better would be a variable speed control. When floundering it runs a tad to fast in lowest speed. something to consider when you purchase a trolling motor
Yes, the infinitely variable speed control is a nice feature. There certainly are times where I'd like to run just a little slower or faster than the presets allow, but I've found that by tilting the motor you can also diminish speed slightly, since you're thrusting more downward than straight back.
love to hear yourself talk don't you??