Contrast > wash > white > contrast is a very nice one that deserves to be explored with many colors (your note on the specific nature of this one notwithstanding). Well done.
I generally strongly dislike Contrast/Speed Paint videos, but the way you used them here was absolutely brilliant. I'm completely reassessing my approach to painting my IF army! Thanks!
Thank you! My whole channel is basically all Contrast painting 😄. I've done similar armor ones for World Eaters (30k & 40k) and black armor on Leagues of Votann. Red Armor th-cam.com/video/DfCHx2_JcZY/w-d-xo.html Black Armor th-cam.com/video/JvQjhXezdic/w-d-xo.html
This was the first video of yours I've watched. Really well filmed, excellent clear narration, not pretentious at all (unlike some). So I've subscribed :-)
Ok, that settles it; I'll be getting that yellow contrast paint this week. I've been painting IF on and off for over a decade and this must be the easiest way I've seen yet. I mean; I used to do them from a black undercoat over brown. Took 20 layers sometimes! 🙄 A bit masochistic in hindsight, but then again: rather fitting for IF 😅
Awesome tutorial. Was interested in painting yellow power armour, but even as a somewhat skilled painter I was concerned at the amount of effort. Painted a test model and found it easy AND awesome! Much thanks to you @DarcyBonoCreations !
This video is simple and perfect thank you! I am using this tutorial to paint my Tau army yellow! It’s turning out so good and I’m hyped I found this video!
Aw well thank you so much! I mainly do commissions so can't release videos regularly enough to please the algorithm gods. That and video production just really isn't my thing 😅.
@@DarcyBonoCreations What you’ve done with your video editing is more than enough I think. You get across everything perfectly, I wouldn’t change anything. The frequency might not please the algorithm gods but I’ll look forward to your future videos nonetheless! If your commissioners don’t mind it it’d be neat to see the process on them sometime.
@@DarcyBonoCreations thank you so much, I’m doing kitbash Grimdark terminators, all kind of dark stuff, and I was thinking to do one in color, orange, a mercenary type.. so thank you very much🤗🤗
Thanks! I actually cover Black Armor in the following video: th-cam.com/video/JvQjhXezdic/w-d-xo.html If you don't want a cold black like that one, you can stipple with a light grey like Administratum Grey instead of a pale blue.
Very nice. I've had great success doing loads of Lamenters doing a yellow spray, thinned riekland fleshshade twice, then bringing up highlights with yriel and flash gits. Maybe your method will grow on me but nonetheless great tutorial 🙂
So Darcy, thank you very much on this paint tutorial! i was searching for one with a simple and easy imperial fists yellow on white primer(i was looking up over 30 videos and yours is the one i imagine to go with). I am totally looking forward to paint my new Army that way, especially the models are all Dark Angels. I am going to create a 30k Fists army with all the Crusader stryle looking details but with black cloth items! Balck and yellow -> Best Color mates^^ Thank you again..... Greetz from Germany!
Sick! I'm getting into painting action figures and I've wanted to try yellow. The imperial fists have a pretty cool color scheme I think, thanks for the tutorial! I'll probably try this with my folk lore paint since I already have that haha
very good content and instantly became my new yellow recipe, yet I have two questions when I am trying myself 1. for the shade part, i try to use nazdreg yellow contrast without thinning it down, but I couldn’t get the rich orange ish yellow after finishing. 2. i use white scare as drybrush, but it is quite a watery paint and i end up a bubble like result, yellow in the middle surrounded with a white circle. May I know what white paint you are using
Thank you! 1. I don't understand, I didn't use Nazdreg Yellow in this recipe. It's a totally different color than Gor Grunta Fur which is orange brown. 2. I use Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White by Monument Hobbies. AK Interactive White is good too.
Yaaay! Badmoons are my 2nd favorite Orks (Goffs is best of course). I hope 10th treats them alright. So far the rules preview looks very melee centric 😐
I discover your channel with this video and your video is very useful, i have learned some quick tricks just by watching some of your work. thanks a lot :D
Some feedback: I just did this for a batch of Terminators, Hellblasters and Heavy Intercessors over a base of red and then white. It came out rougher, with more texture and darker recesses since I used a larger brush and went rather quickly, so it's a little more akin to the technique people are calling slapchop these days. I think I like it still because with the more pronounced, darker recesses they are easy to read from a distance and these are very much for gaming, not display. I used 2 stages of drybrushing with a first layer of Dorn Yellow followed by more edge-focused White Scar. I'm not sure that was necessary, either would probably have been fine, especially at a distance. I have one model where I didn't do they white and the difference is negligable, so to anyone who is thinking about it: probably not worth it, it does not replace edge highlighting. All in all I have to say I love this technique. I do own an airbrush and there is something to be said for super smooth gradients but doing it this way gives everything a rough texture I like and drybrushing as a technique just feels good to me.
holy poop, thats amazing. Going to give this a try, hopefully it still looks as great over wraithbone, cuz there is no white primer within 50miles of me.
Would a shadewash with Agrax Earthshade instead of the brown contrast paint give similar results? Alternatively, I have Contrast Wyldwood and Snakebite Leather available.
Not really. Agrax is a red brown while GorGrunta is a burnt orange/sienna so you're shadows are going to be a bit muddier. Agrax is also not saturated enough to provide the same level of definition (you'd have to do two coats).
@@DarcyBonoCreations Thanks for getting back to me. I was doing inventory and I need Contrast Medium, so I will pick up your brown too since I have to make the trip. :)
@@DarcyBonoCreations I’ve found that if you’re in the speed paint range, hardened leather is an almost perfect replacement for gor grunta brown. Mix it in the same ratio of paint to speed paint medium as you did with your paint and it looks lovely for a fair bit cheaper. Can’t replace imperial fist though, it’s just too good
Sorry if I missed it in the video. The second coat of imperial fist over the shading and stippling is just the regular paint and not the contrast correct?
Coincidentally I did shoot some footage of me painting part of the Dreadnought, but felt it made the video too long and would come off as redundant. However, I can tell you that there's almost no difference in the technique, the only thing that's different is the amount of stippling since is a large flat surface, and the Gor Grunta looking horrifying when it dries. Otherwise it's pretty much the same process. RESULT EXAMPLE: imgur.com/a/AqrYK2C
I'm sorry to hear that! Feel free to send me a picture so I can better determine what the issue may be. You can contact me directly on any of my social media/email listed in the following link: linktr.ee/Darcy_Bono_Creations
I really do like this method of painting yellow; it will look fantastic on my HH Imperial Fists. However, would you mind sharing what colors/method you used for the head and Aquila.
It looks great, but I find myself having a problem with contrasts making really ugly stains and pools when you put them on top of lighter colors, especially with flatter surfaces. I really like your trick with drybrushing in order to clean all that crap up, but I wonder how to deal with the problem when using different colors than yellow, and still going with contrasts.
About 90% of my work uses mostly Contrast Paints, and I can tell you the trick is using the Contrast Medium with your paint. It allows it a longer drying time so you can spread it around more evenly. Without it, the Contrast stays where it is and pools. Another trick is to not put much paint on your brush and then kinda mop with it. The blotches are caused by excess paint pooling and not being spread evenly. So you can mitigate this by using the Medium to spread it evenly, and avoiding excess paint. That being said it's best to work in patches on the model, making sure it's smoothed out before moving on to another part.
@@DarcyBonoCreations Hey! Thank you a lot for the tip, I definitely need to try that! I wonder if Lhamean Medium for glazing with normal paints would work as a replacement for contrast medium - in any case, I'll simply grab a bottle next time I'll be buying paints in the shop, but that's the only thing I have at home right now.
Oh you definitely can use Lahmian, I frequently do. It changes the viscosity a bit and makes it a more "flowy" than with Contrast Medium but it works just fine. Anything is better than zero medium!
@@DarcyBonoCreations Awesome! I'll get right to the testing then. There was this painting event where I live yesterday, awesome place to watch pro painted minis - but it also makes you ashamed of your own minis and motivates you to bump up the painting / at least try to do some progress.
Hi! im about to buy these paints and follow your scheme for my IF army, i was just wondering: i cant find any "gorgunta brown contrast" paint anywhere, could cygor brown do the trick? or any other paint thati could use for that matter? Thanks in advance!
Cygor Brown is a mahogany color so is a little darker/redder and will result in a darker rust color. I think you could use it but would just need to thin it down quite a bit more.
I like the white drybrush over the shade, that's clever. I will give this a try, thank you. Do you think just going with nazdreg yellow and skipping the shade, then drybrush white with imperial fist yellow over the top would be pretty close to the same? Seems like a similar resulting color.
Hmmm possibly 🤔. I'm not sure it the initial layer of Nazdreg will be quite dark enough in the recesses though to make a difference. I'll test it out and let you know. EDIT: Maybe 2 coats of Nazdreg Yellow because to get just one coat as saturated the construction orange yellow in the video, you'd really have to lay it on and risk substantial pooling. So possibly with 2 thin coats of Nazdreg, stipple white, Glaze IF yellow.
Tried this out and the pot of Imperial Fist contrast I’ve got absolutely does not go on smoothly like butter, and doesn’t seem to be covering nearly as well as yours. Insert very confused expression.
What primer are you putting it over? Also, are you shaking it well before application? And I really don't mean to insult your intelligence, but I've has this happen multiple times...you're certain you're using Imperial Fist Yellow? I had multiple instances of people saying they weren't getting the same results, only to find out they were using the wrong paint (Iyaden Yellow for example).
@@DarcyBonoCreations Not primer, but two coats of P3 Menoth White Highlight done over black primer. I was shaking it well, but possibly not quite enough? I don’t know… how much shaking does it require? 😂 I ended up troubleshooting with a few people on Discord and the issue may have been that it wasn’t quite as solid a coat of white as maybe it could have been, and potentially also the shaking. It IS Imperial Fists yellow, I am sure of that. No big deal. I’ll just go back to the old standard regular yellow brush paints.
@tinyfishhobby3138 Yep, the problem is the black under layer. Using Contrast over dark undershading is fine when you're doing it with a dark, cooler color like blue. But black desaturates the hell out of anything you put over it, and really warps warm colors like yellow. If you're going to do undershading with a warm color like yellow then I recommend a warm brown followed by the white highlight layer. The black is going to turn subsequent layers of yellow, a sickly green regardless of Contrast or traditional acrylic paint. Basically, since Contrast Paints are semi transparent they work best with a light primed mini.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I really appreciate all your help, thanks so much! Will know better next time for sure. It’s a unit of Templar Brethren I’m working on, so at least here it’s only a few bits that will be yellow(doing the assault legionary scheme from Horus Heresy: Extermination).
I don't think it's going to look the same since you'll be putting the Gor Grunta Fur over white (resulting in a burnt orange) instead of yellow (resulting in a construction yellow). Pretty sure it's going to give a more jarring color transition if you don't do the yellow first since you'll be jumping from a deep orange to a bright yellow.
I've been experimenting for my own fists but this is pretty much the exact look I want to go for. What reds were used for the crest and sergeant helmet?
@@DarcyBonoCreations Thanks for the reply! Is the helmet picked out with more Mephiston Red to get that difference in color between it and the chest eagle?
This is an amazing tutorial which gives me hope I might be able to get some decent Imperial Fists done. I'm sitting here frustrated after struggling with classic yellow layering (Averland Sunset, Agrax Earthshade, Yriel Yellow) and not getting a smooth surface. Any experience using streaking grime and chipping to get more wear/tear on the armor?
Well thank you! Yeah I don't have the patience to layer paint yellow 😅. As for chipping theres an example in my latest Ironjawz video. Just sponge on Dorn Yellow sparingly around the edges and then sponge on a dark brown lightly over that. I don't really enjoy weathering, but my husband loves it, so I usually just outsource any weathering jobs to him 😄.
Hi there!! Thanks for this tutorial :) I do have a question :/ Why not use Yriel Yellow or haverland sunset in replacement of the white, during de Stippling/drybrush process?
Thanks for watching! Do you mean so you can skip the last glaze step? If so, Yriel Yellow is fairly transparent so it will take quite awhile to build up the color intensity to the point that IF Yellow over white provides. Averland Sunet may fair a little better, but you're going to have more of an ochre color and you won't have the brighter highlights on the edges (which is totally fine if you want a darker look). If you mean stipple with said yellows and still apply the final coat of IF Yellow in the end, it's because Contrast Paints rely on a light undercoat to do what they do. If you put a transparent yellow over a mid tone yellow, you get a midtone yellow. If you put it over white you get a brighter yellow (which is what I wanted for my highlights).
I have some trouble finding all the colors. Can you list again which exact colors you used ? I can't find gor grunta and contrast medium drops. And which white did you use on the dry brush ? Also the black and the red would be nice. Thank you :)
There's a color list in the video description. The red is Flesh Tearers Red Contrast mixed with a spec of Shyish Purple Contrast. The Black is Black Templar Contrast.
Darcy, have you ever tried, or thought to try, using the Army Painter strong tone dip over a contrast-painted space marine? I'm out in the middle of nowhere and it takes weeks for me to get any AP stuff, so I've not an easy route to try this method out. Would it be possible for you to give it a go, if you have not done so already?
Oh I love AP Strong Tone. It's basically Agrax Earthshade but a little more grey in it (like Agrax w/ a pinch of Nuln Oil). I mainly just use it to weather metallics. It is somewhat glossy though so I don't use it unless it's on something I'm gonna varnish down later. What color were you going to put it over? Really the only space marines I'd recommend using it on are red ones since it's such a brown tone.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I was considering using a quick shade over my Imperial Fists, which I would later use a flat varnish to tone down the gloss. I'd thought of the strong tone only as it appears to stand out a bit more than the soft tone. Were I to have both here now, I'd try it out. My thinking is that as one can paint over the tone, I would use your painting method as shown in this video, but add the quickshade instead of the Gore Grunta Brown.
@Khornishman ooooh I gotcha! No I wouldn't recommend doing it that way unless you want a grungy ochre color. AP Strong Tone has a decent amount of grey in it, so it's going to dull everything. If anything, I'd say try AP Light Tone, it's a golden orange color that could work, or possibly even Mid-Brown (reddish tone).
How much of a difference to the final product does that first coat of imperial fist make vs just picking up the process at the thinned down goregrunter fur?
Great question. The answer is, quite a bit. Since you're changing your mid tone color to orange brown, in order to bring it up to the saturated yellow, you have to stipple it quite a lot, otherwise the Imperial Fist Yellow turns to ochre anywhere there isn't stippling. Also, you lose your bright highlights, because now the white stippling is just being used to create the yellow. Color Test imgur.com/a/5udAut0
@@DarcyBonoCreations It looks like it could be good for a rank and file paint job for a grimdark color scheme with some brown and slate paint chipping if you don't want to break out the enamels or oils.
Hi Darcy, thanks for this great video! I was hoping you could give me your feedback on my next steps for a similar, but not the same, yellow paint scheme: I'm currently painting up some old school cadian kasrkin, and for the armor plates, I primed them in pro acrylic white primer, and airbrushed flash gitz yellow on top. After that, I shaded the armor plates with 50:50 ish mix of gulliman flesh contrast and contrast medium. From there, I wanted to implement your steps of stippling and drybrushing white, then follow up with a layer of imperial fist yellow contrast. A couple of questions in regard to this scheme: do you think that this paint scheme would still provide depth and rich yellow to the model? Is it possible to layer imperial fist yellow over this shaded flash gitz yellow, and would you happen to have any idea on how it may turn out? If imperial fist yellow would not be appropriate, is there another contrast yellow I could apply? I'm more than happy to share pictures if needed. Otherwise, thank you for this great video! I'm planning to use this paint scheme on my armageddon steel legion minis! Have a great one!
Thanks glad you enjoyed it. As long as the shaded Flash Gitz (a bit more of a lemon yellow) ultimately looks like a orangeish yellow once shade coat has dried, it should work just fine. You basically want the pre stippled area a darker color so there is some definition when you glaze on the Imperial Fist Yellow at the end.
They're really similar to inks so they're totally fine in an airbrush. I use them like that for vehicles and larger surfaces. Just know that some are more heavily pigmented than others so the amount you thin them (if at all) will vary.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I had been using Guilliman Flesh for my panel lining when I did Fists, I'll have to check out how Goregrunta works next time I'm doing a yellow mini.
Oh whoops, my bad, yes "Gore-grunta Fur" is the correct name. And Agrax Earthshade is not going to give you a comparable result. Agrax is closer to a chocolate brown while Gor Grunta is a sienna (orange brown). It's also not as saturated as it's a very thin shade. If you do use it, it's going to result in a muted ochre rather than the industrial yellow.
You can just base coat it with yellow if you'd prefer, and then move on to the orange-brown shade. However, unless you have an airbrush or yellow primer, it's just way faster with the IF Yellow acting as the base coat.
Oh man I'm sorry to hear that! IF Yellow is super pigmented so if the paint pot has been sitting for awhile all the sediment may have congealed at the bottom leaving mostly medium on top. Try putting an agitator mixing ball (Army Painter sells them in packs) in it and shaking the hell out of it to help mix the pigment back in. I've honestly never encountered that issue, and it very well could be a bad batch, but that's what I would try before returning them.
Hey - pretty inexperienced so excuse potentially a dumb question. How would you suggest using this technique but on the (red) rim of the shoulder pads on regular Primaris armour? Dry brush and stipple the red rim then start again on the main surface or just treat it like you have here as if it were a single level surface?
No worries, there's no such thing as a dumb question when it comes to hobbying. So I would not use the technique for doing trim. The reason is because this technique is for large smooth surfaces where the trim is a very small surface. So for the trim you can just do a base coat of a deep red like Mephiston Red or any dark red really and then an edge highlight with Evil Suns Scarlet. OR, what I would do is just repaint the trim in white or ivory(PRO ACRYL Bold Titanium White is ideal) and then paint over that with Flesh Tearers Red Contrast. That's what I did for the sigil on their chests.
It's going to give a more battered aesthetic due to the stippling. If that's OK with you for your eldar, then yes. If you want the cleaner Eldar look, your going to need to apply the Gor Grunta Fur as a thin recess shade instead of an all over wash.
Vallejo Gold Yellow is very opaque and a nearly identical color to Imperial Fist Yellow so can be used for a touch up. But like I said, you can always paint the black surfaces first and then touch them up after your drybrush if you're worried about getting black paint on the yellow.
@DarcyBonoCreations I know I should have listened... :( however my start was a little off to begin with. Before I saw this video I had primed and base coated already but my base coat was not the desired imperial fist yellow I was looking for, so I bought the yellow contrast you used and I worked like a charm. I was so excited thinking I had just saved my model from a dirty pollen yellow existence that I ended up painting the whole thing, loving it and then remembering you saying that it'd be best to color the other none yellow items (such as the Bolt pistol) black or whatever color before contrast because of the very situation I'm in 😅 ugh. Jumped the gun, dare I say rushed and I paid the price. Thanks for saving the day again I will have to pick some up after work
Aw, Reddit can be quite a cesspool at times. At least you know that anybody who takes time out of their day to make someone feel worse about themselves, is probably a pretty miserable person.
this technique makes so much more sense to me than the commonly recommended base > zenithal > highlight > contrast, which frankly looks terrible outside of youtube.
This is the first time I've seen something painted with the new Imperial Fists yellow, it's very impressive! Never thought I'd see a yellow paint cover like that. Cheers for showcasing it like that. Very nice terminators as well!
Imperial Fists were my first army back in 1989, yes I'm old, at the time my painting process involved yellow paint straight out of the pot all over, then a bit of silver on the guns, finished off with a goblin green base. Each model took about 1 minute. They weren't good...
Aaay! 89 my birth year 😄. Yeah that sounds about right for all of us pre internet childhood kids. I really wish they'd bring back Goblin Green just for nostalgia sake. Warboss Green is close but not quite the same 😔
Oh wow this is great! I tried a test marine with just Imperial Fist and it just looked too flat, so I abandoned it. I'll definitely revisit that test model now with this technique. Thank you!
![Imperial Fists - Contrast on Power Armour Made Simple! [How I Paint Things]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/m4x0El5xOxU/mqdefault.jpg)
![[TH] FS vs BME - VCT Ascension Pacific - Lower Bracket Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/wnygqsR2Fig/mqdefault.jpg)
Slanesh birthday party…in Columbia. Legendary save😂
Yeeeah as I was saying it I was like "ooo whoops that could be interpreted as a MUCH different white residue reference 🤣"
This line won TH-cam for me today...class
@@DarcyBonoCreations well I dont get the Columbia reference so I still got the 1st degree dirty joke 😂 or are we talking snif powder?
I was originally thinking sniff powder 😆....then realized that the Slaaneshi thing worked on another level as well!
I'd attend 😅😈
Contrast > wash > white > contrast is a very nice one that deserves to be explored with many colors (your note on the specific nature of this one notwithstanding).
Well done.
Awesome tutorial, really leans into contrasts strength using easy to learn techniques.
Great yellow recipe and process. I'm sure it could help a lot of Heresy folks as there are a lot of Imperial Fist armies out there for Heresy.
Amazing
The Yellow Threat of The Past Is No More
Absolutely Love The Simple Tutorial
Best vid ive seen on yellow....lovingly done.
I like the orange hue in the recess rather than just a dark yellow. Looks great
I've been uming and ahing about starting an IF army for 10ed but was daunted by the whole yellow thing - am definitely going to give this a try!
I generally strongly dislike Contrast/Speed Paint videos, but the way you used them here was absolutely brilliant. I'm completely reassessing my approach to painting my IF army! Thanks!
Wasn't expecting this to be as easy as this for that level of finish!
Would be awesome if you can figure out some more contrast combos like this!
Thank you! My whole channel is basically all Contrast painting 😄. I've done similar armor ones for World Eaters (30k & 40k) and black armor on Leagues of Votann.
Red Armor
th-cam.com/video/DfCHx2_JcZY/w-d-xo.html
Black Armor
th-cam.com/video/JvQjhXezdic/w-d-xo.html
That looks a great yellow, think I might try it over my usual pink/white zentithal
Try thinning it a little if you do! It's really opaque.
Lord above, that's a good yellow. If only I'd known it was that good before I used about 30 applications of ink on that Jolteon
After all that effort, may your THUNDER never miss 😄
This was the first video of yours I've watched. Really well filmed, excellent clear narration, not pretentious at all (unlike some). So I've subscribed :-)
Oh wow thank you for the kind feedback! Glad you enjoyed it 😃
Ok, that settles it; I'll be getting that yellow contrast paint this week. I've been painting IF on and off for over a decade and this must be the easiest way I've seen yet. I mean; I used to do them from a black undercoat over brown. Took 20 layers sometimes! 🙄
A bit masochistic in hindsight, but then again: rather fitting for IF 😅
Absolutely recommend IF contrast paint, it's amazing
That's INCREDIBLY fitting for IF 😄. Layer 14..."we've already done 13 layers! If we stick to this, we'll get a dense yellow. The Emporer wills it!"
Awesome tutorial. Was interested in painting yellow power armour, but even as a somewhat skilled painter I was concerned at the amount of effort. Painted a test model and found it easy AND awesome! Much thanks to you @DarcyBonoCreations !
Im planning on doing a IF army and I am 💯 going to use this technique.
Great tips on the brushes
Good golly that’s the best looking yellow I’ve ever seen
Oh my GOD! This is like magic! D: Thank you so much! The contrast->shade->stipple/highlight->contrast process is just amazing! wow!
Thanks! Glad you found it helpful. I need to call it something catcher than stipple undershading 😅
Painting things obnoxiously yellow is our MO. Hella fun! 😂👍🏽
This video is simple and perfect thank you! I am using this tutorial to paint my Tau army yellow! It’s turning out so good and I’m hyped I found this video!
Awesome! I actually really love the Tau (despite preferring more ragey melee centric armies). I look forward to seeing them!
Well done on providing the many another method of painting our armor for infiltration operations in the future…
😉
Just found your channel, I love your content! Absolutely criminal you have so few subs. Showed my friends after work, hopefully you reach more people.
Aw well thank you so much! I mainly do commissions so can't release videos regularly enough to please the algorithm gods. That and video production just really isn't my thing 😅.
@@DarcyBonoCreations What you’ve done with your video editing is more than enough I think. You get across everything perfectly, I wouldn’t change anything.
The frequency might not please the algorithm gods but I’ll look forward to your future videos nonetheless! If your commissioners don’t mind it it’d be neat to see the process on them sometime.
Awesome tutorial. Thanks for sharing this.
Will definitely be using this recipe 😊
Thanks for this very smart way to paint imperial fist army ! I will use it to go on my own army. Long life to your channel !
Your video was very helpful in painting some lamenters for my blood angels army! Thank you very much for the easy to follow guide.
Wow! 😮
Thank you for sharing!
Nicely done, Darcy! This will help me with an upcoming project needing plenty of yellow.
this really makes me dare to get Imperial Fists and paint them to look good also. Thanks for doing this video
WoW, I’m going to do that with orange, thank you for the tips, really awesome work you do😊
Thank you! If you're interested, I've actually done a somewhat similar recipe for orange armor:
ko-fi.com/post/PAINTING-ORANGE-ARMOR-UPDATE-P5P5FZX4S
@@DarcyBonoCreations thank you so much, I’m doing kitbash Grimdark terminators, all kind of dark stuff, and I was thinking to do one in color, orange, a mercenary type.. so thank you very much🤗🤗
Impressive painting~!! Nice tips Dry brushing and yellow color painting!
This stipple technique is just gorgeous! Truly lushious.
What would you recommend for black? Black Legion, for example.
Thanks! I actually cover Black Armor in the following video:
th-cam.com/video/JvQjhXezdic/w-d-xo.html
If you don't want a cold black like that one, you can stipple with a light grey like Administratum Grey instead of a pale blue.
Great video, love this technique, yellow and white can be such a pain on these guys, gonna try this out asap.
😊
Thanks! I actually have a video on painting white as well, if you haven't seen it yet:
th-cam.com/video/UxkbEG2GwMI/w-d-xo.htmlsi=hfQhjLnms69XX5oj
Very nice. I've had great success doing loads of Lamenters doing a yellow spray, thinned riekland fleshshade twice, then bringing up highlights with yriel and flash gits. Maybe your method will grow on me but nonetheless great tutorial 🙂
Interesting, I did something similar with the Bad Moons Orruk Megaboss Bazdrogg Nekk-choppa.
So Darcy, thank you very much on this paint tutorial!
i was searching for one with a simple and easy imperial fists yellow on white primer(i was looking up over 30 videos and yours is the one i imagine to go with).
I am totally looking forward to paint my new Army that way, especially the models are all Dark Angels.
I am going to create a 30k Fists army with all the Crusader stryle looking details but with black cloth items! Balck and yellow -> Best Color mates^^
Thank you again.....
Greetz from Germany!
Thank u so much I've had so much trouble with yellow I've been pushing off painting my imperial fist again thank u
Cracking video! Really well explained 🎉
Absolutely loved this tutorial! Thank you so much :)
Sick! I'm getting into painting action figures and I've wanted to try yellow. The imperial fists have a pretty cool color scheme I think, thanks for the tutorial! I'll probably try this with my folk lore paint since I already have that haha
Tried this today. Worked brilliantly! Thank you!
Great tutorial!
Never seen your videos before. Sorry I haven't. This is a very cool and helpful tutorial. Thank you.
No worries! I haven't really posted very regularly until recently. Glad you liked it 😃
This is very cool, I will use the stippling for my alpha legion.
Try it with a bright silver or metallic medium 😉
Gives a cool iridescent look to it.
Fantastic video and great explanation. Really nice work and channel. 👏
This recipe is absolute genius, thank you so much! Subscribed!
Interesting, fascinating way to go about this, I dig it.
very good content and instantly became my new yellow recipe, yet I have two questions when I am trying myself
1. for the shade part, i try to use nazdreg yellow contrast without thinning it down, but I couldn’t get the rich orange ish yellow after finishing.
2. i use white scare as drybrush, but it is quite a watery paint and i end up a bubble like result, yellow in the middle surrounded with a white circle. May I know what white paint you are using
Thank you!
1. I don't understand, I didn't use Nazdreg Yellow in this recipe. It's a totally different color than Gor Grunta Fur which is orange brown.
2. I use Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White by Monument Hobbies. AK Interactive White is good too.
Great video. Awesome process. My badmoon Ork send their thanks
Yaaay! Badmoons are my 2nd favorite Orks (Goffs is best of course). I hope 10th treats them alright. So far the rules preview looks very melee centric 😐
@@DarcyBonoCreations agreed ork and daka is more a distraction, daka daka daka until the Chopa comes for you head.
I discover your channel with this video and your video is very useful, i have learned some quick tricks just by watching some of your work. thanks a lot :D
Aw thank you! That's great to hear 😃
that is genius
Very good
Very nice!
such an incredible job, and you break it down so simply. subscribed!
Well thank you! Glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for the sub.
Some feedback:
I just did this for a batch of Terminators, Hellblasters and Heavy Intercessors over a base of red and then white. It came out rougher, with more texture and darker recesses since I used a larger brush and went rather quickly, so it's a little more akin to the technique people are calling slapchop these days. I think I like it still because with the more pronounced, darker recesses they are easy to read from a distance and these are very much for gaming, not display.
I used 2 stages of drybrushing with a first layer of Dorn Yellow followed by more edge-focused White Scar. I'm not sure that was necessary, either would probably have been fine, especially at a distance. I have one model where I didn't do they white and the difference is negligable, so to anyone who is thinking about it: probably not worth it, it does not replace edge highlighting.
All in all I have to say I love this technique. I do own an airbrush and there is something to be said for super smooth gradients but doing it this way gives everything a rough texture I like and drybrushing as a technique just feels good to me.
holy poop, thats amazing. Going to give this a try, hopefully it still looks as great over wraithbone, cuz there is no white primer within 50miles of me.
Yep, works great over Wraithbone. Since it's an ivory (warm white) it will make the yellow more saturated 😃
Would a shadewash with Agrax Earthshade instead of the brown contrast paint give similar results? Alternatively, I have Contrast Wyldwood and Snakebite Leather available.
Not really. Agrax is a red brown while GorGrunta is a burnt orange/sienna so you're shadows are going to be a bit muddier. Agrax is also not saturated enough to provide the same level of definition (you'd have to do two coats).
@@DarcyBonoCreations Thanks for getting back to me. I was doing inventory and I need Contrast Medium, so I will pick up your brown too since I have to make the trip. :)
Np! Gor Grunta is a very useful paint to add to your arsenal. It's great making rust in recesses, and putting it over a bright silver makes copper 🙂.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I’ve found that if you’re in the speed paint range, hardened leather is an almost perfect replacement for gor grunta brown. Mix it in the same ratio of paint to speed paint medium as you did with your paint and it looks lovely for a fair bit cheaper. Can’t replace imperial fist though, it’s just too good
Just a heads up. If you don’t want to mix the same shade she uses. Reikland flesh shade matches almost exactly.
Sun orange sounds tasty. . .
Stunning. The models look good too.
Sorry if I missed it in the video. The second coat of imperial fist over the shading and stippling is just the regular paint and not the contrast correct?
I'm not sure I understand. There isn't a regular Imperial Fist Yellow, it's only a Contrast Paint.
Thank you! That answers my question. I was unaware the Imperial fist yellow is only available as a contrast. 🤣
Could you do a video of this same technique with a dreadnought, I imagine the flat panels might become difficult with the latter stages
Coincidentally I did shoot some footage of me painting part of the Dreadnought, but felt it made the video too long and would come off as redundant. However, I can tell you that there's almost no difference in the technique, the only thing that's different is the amount of stippling since is a large flat surface, and the Gor Grunta looking horrifying when it dries. Otherwise it's pretty much the same process.
RESULT EXAMPLE:
imgur.com/a/AqrYK2C
Hi, i tryed to do the same, but my terminstors look way more dirty and not as clean. Not sure where it went wrong
I'm sorry to hear that! Feel free to send me a picture so I can better determine what the issue may be. You can contact me directly on any of my social media/email listed in the following link: linktr.ee/Darcy_Bono_Creations
I really do like this method of painting yellow; it will look fantastic on my HH Imperial Fists. However, would you mind sharing what colors/method you used for the head and Aquila.
Thanks! It's just Flesh Tearers Red Contrast with a tiny bit of Shyish Purple Contrast, highlighted up with Mephiston Red.
This is amazing! Thank you
It looks great, but I find myself having a problem with contrasts making really ugly stains and pools when you put them on top of lighter colors, especially with flatter surfaces. I really like your trick with drybrushing in order to clean all that crap up, but I wonder how to deal with the problem when using different colors than yellow, and still going with contrasts.
About 90% of my work uses mostly Contrast Paints, and I can tell you the trick is using the Contrast Medium with your paint. It allows it a longer drying time so you can spread it around more evenly. Without it, the Contrast stays where it is and pools. Another trick is to not put much paint on your brush and then kinda mop with it. The blotches are caused by excess paint pooling and not being spread evenly. So you can mitigate this by using the Medium to spread it evenly, and avoiding excess paint. That being said it's best to work in patches on the model, making sure it's smoothed out before moving on to another part.
@@DarcyBonoCreations Hey! Thank you a lot for the tip, I definitely need to try that! I wonder if Lhamean Medium for glazing with normal paints would work as a replacement for contrast medium - in any case, I'll simply grab a bottle next time I'll be buying paints in the shop, but that's the only thing I have at home right now.
Oh you definitely can use Lahmian, I frequently do. It changes the viscosity a bit and makes it a more "flowy" than with Contrast Medium but it works just fine. Anything is better than zero medium!
@@DarcyBonoCreations Awesome! I'll get right to the testing then. There was this painting event where I live yesterday, awesome place to watch pro painted minis - but it also makes you ashamed of your own minis and motivates you to bump up the painting / at least try to do some progress.
Hi! im about to buy these paints and follow your scheme for my IF army, i was just wondering: i cant find any "gorgunta brown contrast" paint anywhere, could cygor brown do the trick? or any other paint thati could use for that matter?
Thanks in advance!
Cygor Brown is a mahogany color so is a little darker/redder and will result in a darker rust color. I think you could use it but would just need to thin it down quite a bit more.
Amazing job. Subbed!
I like the white drybrush over the shade, that's clever. I will give this a try, thank you. Do you think just going with nazdreg yellow and skipping the shade, then drybrush white with imperial fist yellow over the top would be pretty close to the same? Seems like a similar resulting color.
Hmmm possibly 🤔. I'm not sure it the initial layer of Nazdreg will be quite dark enough in the recesses though to make a difference. I'll test it out and let you know.
EDIT: Maybe 2 coats of Nazdreg Yellow because to get just one coat as saturated the construction orange yellow in the video, you'd really have to lay it on and risk substantial pooling. So possibly with 2 thin coats of Nazdreg, stipple white, Glaze IF yellow.
Tried this out and the pot of Imperial Fist contrast I’ve got absolutely does not go on smoothly like butter, and doesn’t seem to be covering nearly as well as yours. Insert very confused expression.
What primer are you putting it over? Also, are you shaking it well before application?
And I really don't mean to insult your intelligence, but I've has this happen multiple times...you're certain you're using Imperial Fist Yellow? I had multiple instances of people saying they weren't getting the same results, only to find out they were using the wrong paint (Iyaden Yellow for example).
@@DarcyBonoCreations Not primer, but two coats of P3 Menoth White Highlight done over black primer. I was shaking it well, but possibly not quite enough? I don’t know… how much shaking does it require? 😂 I ended up troubleshooting with a few people on Discord and the issue may have been that it wasn’t quite as solid a coat of white as maybe it could have been, and potentially also the shaking. It IS Imperial Fists yellow, I am sure of that. No big deal. I’ll just go back to the old standard regular yellow brush paints.
@tinyfishhobby3138 Yep, the problem is the black under layer. Using Contrast over dark undershading is fine when you're doing it with a dark, cooler color like blue. But black desaturates the hell out of anything you put over it, and really warps warm colors like yellow. If you're going to do undershading with a warm color like yellow then I recommend a warm brown followed by the white highlight layer. The black is going to turn subsequent layers of yellow, a sickly green regardless of Contrast or traditional acrylic paint.
Basically, since Contrast Paints are semi transparent they work best with a light primed mini.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I really appreciate all your help, thanks so much! Will know better next time for sure. It’s a unit of Templar Brethren I’m working on, so at least here it’s only a few bits that will be yellow(doing the assault legionary scheme from Horus Heresy: Extermination).
Baal Red works similar to Imperial Fist. Any red recipe?
I actually do have a red recipe! But it's with Flesh Tearers Red:
th-cam.com/video/DfCHx2_JcZY/w-d-xo.html
@@DarcyBonoCreations That's Khorne. How about Blood Angels?
Nope haven't painted any. How's the Necronomicon writing going these days?
Very nice. As I’m always trying to make things quick. Would it possible to skip the initial yellow coat. White/shade/stipple and yellow ?
I don't think it's going to look the same since you'll be putting the Gor Grunta Fur over white (resulting in a burnt orange) instead of yellow (resulting in a construction yellow). Pretty sure it's going to give a more jarring color transition if you don't do the yellow first since you'll be jumping from a deep orange to a bright yellow.
I've been experimenting for my own fists but this is pretty much the exact look I want to go for. What reds were used for the crest and sergeant helmet?
Fleshtearers Red w/ a tiny bit of Shyish Purple. Then highlight up with Mephiston Red.
@@DarcyBonoCreations Thanks for the reply! Is the helmet picked out with more Mephiston Red to get that difference in color between it and the chest eagle?
This is an amazing tutorial which gives me hope I might be able to get some decent Imperial Fists done.
I'm sitting here frustrated after struggling with classic yellow layering (Averland Sunset, Agrax Earthshade, Yriel Yellow) and not getting a smooth surface.
Any experience using streaking grime and chipping to get more wear/tear on the armor?
Well thank you! Yeah I don't have the patience to layer paint yellow 😅. As for chipping theres an example in my latest Ironjawz video. Just sponge on Dorn Yellow sparingly around the edges and then sponge on a dark brown lightly over that. I don't really enjoy weathering, but my husband loves it, so I usually just outsource any weathering jobs to him 😄.
Hi there!! Thanks for this tutorial :) I do have a question :/ Why not use Yriel Yellow or haverland sunset in replacement of the white, during de Stippling/drybrush process?
Thanks for watching! Do you mean so you can skip the last glaze step? If so, Yriel Yellow is fairly transparent so it will take quite awhile to build up the color intensity to the point that IF Yellow over white provides. Averland Sunet may fair a little better, but you're going to have more of an ochre color and you won't have the brighter highlights on the edges (which is totally fine if you want a darker look).
If you mean stipple with said yellows and still apply the final coat of IF Yellow in the end, it's because Contrast Paints rely on a light undercoat to do what they do. If you put a transparent yellow over a mid tone yellow, you get a midtone yellow. If you put it over white you get a brighter yellow (which is what I wanted for my highlights).
@@DarcyBonoCreations Thanks for the response :)
Excellent
I have some trouble finding all the colors. Can you list again which exact colors you used ? I can't find gor grunta and contrast medium drops. And which white did you use on the dry brush ? Also the black and the red would be nice. Thank you :)
There's a color list in the video description. The red is Flesh Tearers Red Contrast mixed with a spec of Shyish Purple Contrast. The Black is Black Templar Contrast.
Darcy, have you ever tried, or thought to try, using the Army Painter strong tone dip over a contrast-painted space marine?
I'm out in the middle of nowhere and it takes weeks for me to get any AP stuff, so I've not an easy route to try this method out. Would it be possible for you to give it a go, if you have not done so already?
And I am referring to the strong tone quickshade, by way of clarificiation.
Oh I love AP Strong Tone. It's basically Agrax Earthshade but a little more grey in it (like Agrax w/ a pinch of Nuln Oil). I mainly just use it to weather metallics. It is somewhat glossy though so I don't use it unless it's on something I'm gonna varnish down later. What color were you going to put it over? Really the only space marines I'd recommend using it on are red ones since it's such a brown tone.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I was considering using a quick shade over my Imperial Fists, which I would later use a flat varnish to tone down the gloss. I'd thought of the strong tone only as it appears to stand out a bit more than the soft tone. Were I to have both here now, I'd try it out. My thinking is that as one can paint over the tone, I would use your painting method as shown in this video, but add the quickshade instead of the Gore Grunta Brown.
@Khornishman ooooh I gotcha! No I wouldn't recommend doing it that way unless you want a grungy ochre color. AP Strong Tone has a decent amount of grey in it, so it's going to dull everything. If anything, I'd say try AP Light Tone, it's a golden orange color that could work, or possibly even Mid-Brown (reddish tone).
@@DarcyBonoCreations I do appreciate your suggestion. I''ll test it out.
How much of a difference to the final product does that first coat of imperial fist make vs just picking up the process at the thinned down goregrunter fur?
Great question. The answer is, quite a bit. Since you're changing your mid tone color to orange brown, in order to bring it up to the saturated yellow, you have to stipple it quite a lot, otherwise the Imperial Fist Yellow turns to ochre anywhere there isn't stippling. Also, you lose your bright highlights, because now the white stippling is just being used to create the yellow.
Color Test imgur.com/a/5udAut0
@@DarcyBonoCreations It looks like it could be good for a rank and file paint job for a grimdark color scheme with some brown and slate paint chipping if you don't want to break out the enamels or oils.
Hi Darcy, thanks for this great video! I was hoping you could give me your feedback on my next steps for a similar, but not the same, yellow paint scheme:
I'm currently painting up some old school cadian kasrkin, and for the armor plates, I primed them in pro acrylic white primer, and airbrushed flash gitz yellow on top. After that, I shaded the armor plates with 50:50 ish mix of gulliman flesh contrast and contrast medium. From there, I wanted to implement your steps of stippling and drybrushing white, then follow up with a layer of imperial fist yellow contrast.
A couple of questions in regard to this scheme: do you think that this paint scheme would still provide depth and rich yellow to the model? Is it possible to layer imperial fist yellow over this shaded flash gitz yellow, and would you happen to have any idea on how it may turn out? If imperial fist yellow would not be appropriate, is there another contrast yellow I could apply? I'm more than happy to share pictures if needed.
Otherwise, thank you for this great video! I'm planning to use this paint scheme on my armageddon steel legion minis! Have a great one!
bumping this in case you didn't see it!! I appreciate your feedback :)
Thanks glad you enjoyed it. As long as the shaded Flash Gitz (a bit more of a lemon yellow) ultimately looks like a orangeish yellow once shade coat has dried, it should work just fine. You basically want the pre stippled area a darker color so there is some definition when you glaze on the Imperial Fist Yellow at the end.
How would that imperial fist contrast do in an airbrush? Coukd one expect the same results or would brush application work better?
They're really similar to inks so they're totally fine in an airbrush. I use them like that for vehicles and larger surfaces. Just know that some are more heavily pigmented than others so the amount you thin them (if at all) will vary.
@@DarcyBonoCreations fantastic! Thanks a bunch
Do you think Agrax Earthshade would be fine instead of the Gorgrunta Brown mix?
No, I tried it, and it doesn't have the same amount of orange or the color intensity to do what Gor Grunta does. It just turns it a dull ochre.
@@DarcyBonoCreations I had been using Guilliman Flesh for my panel lining when I did Fists, I'll have to check out how Goregrunta works next time I'm doing a yellow mini.
with "Gorgrunta Brown Contrast" u mean "Gore-grunta Fur" Contrast (by citadel) ? and can i also take Agrax Earth Shade insteat of??
Oh whoops, my bad, yes "Gore-grunta Fur" is the correct name. And Agrax Earthshade is not going to give you a comparable result. Agrax is closer to a chocolate brown while Gor Grunta is a sienna (orange brown). It's also not as saturated as it's a very thin shade. If you do use it, it's going to result in a muted ochre rather than the industrial yellow.
@@DarcyBonoCreations alright and thx for the great tutorial, the best so war. It seems i need a new contrast color :D
Did you try this metod with yellow base coat and skiped first step of contrast layer?
You can just base coat it with yellow if you'd prefer, and then move on to the orange-brown shade. However, unless you have an airbrush or yellow primer, it's just way faster with the IF Yellow acting as the base coat.
thanks GW, i bought 2 pots of imperial fist and it has the consistency of water and pools a lot, any tips on how to fix it?
Oh man I'm sorry to hear that! IF Yellow is super pigmented so if the paint pot has been sitting for awhile all the sediment may have congealed at the bottom leaving mostly medium on top. Try putting an agitator mixing ball (Army Painter sells them in packs) in it and shaking the hell out of it to help mix the pigment back in. I've honestly never encountered that issue, and it very well could be a bad batch, but that's what I would try before returning them.
@@DarcyBonoCreations Thanks, i will be sure to try it, and thanks for the brilliant tutorial :)
For Dorn!
your painting looks so amazing... im trying to painting like you ,but when its done ,it looks so dirt😂the dry brush mark seems too obvious..😂😂
Hey - pretty inexperienced so excuse potentially a dumb question. How would you suggest using this technique but on the (red) rim of the shoulder pads on regular Primaris armour? Dry brush and stipple the red rim then start again on the main surface or just treat it like you have here as if it were a single level surface?
No worries, there's no such thing as a dumb question when it comes to hobbying. So I would not use the technique for doing trim. The reason is because this technique is for large smooth surfaces where the trim is a very small surface. So for the trim you can just do a base coat of a deep red like Mephiston Red or any dark red really and then an edge highlight with Evil Suns Scarlet. OR, what I would do is just repaint the trim in white or ivory(PRO ACRYL Bold Titanium White is ideal) and then paint over that with Flesh Tearers Red Contrast. That's what I did for the sigil on their chests.
@@DarcyBonoCreations That’s great, thank you!
My imperial fist yellow seems very watered down and kinda blotches on, doesn't go on nearly as smooth. What am I doing wrong?
Hmm, that can be caused by the pigment being settled down at the bottom. Are you giving the post a good shake first?
@@DarcyBonoCreations Yes, each time I was shaking for about half a minute.
@DarcyBonoCreations I think I was just using to much... I just tried a lot less on a flat surface and it looks 10x better!
"Fulgrim is my favorite customer. " Pablo Escobar
Will this work on Iyanden Eldar?
It's going to give a more battered aesthetic due to the stippling. If that's OK with you for your eldar, then yes. If you want the cleaner Eldar look, your going to need to apply the Gor Grunta Fur as a thin recess shade instead of an all over wash.
Hello) What is the alternative for gorgrunta from Army Painter Speedpaint?
Ruddy Fur is fairly close and Satchel Brown as well (slightly darker).
@@DarcyBonoCreations thank you👍
10:21 where did you get the Tyranid head he's standing on
It's part of the new terminator captain model.
@@MrDaDukee oh thanks
It's the base that the mini comes with.
@@DarcyBonoCreations thanks
Good touch up paint? Incase we got a little black over our yellow??😅
Vallejo Gold Yellow is very opaque and a nearly identical color to Imperial Fist Yellow so can be used for a touch up. But like I said, you can always paint the black surfaces first and then touch them up after your drybrush if you're worried about getting black paint on the yellow.
@DarcyBonoCreations I know I should have listened... :( however my start was a little off to begin with. Before I saw this video I had primed and base coated already but my base coat was not the desired imperial fist yellow I was looking for, so I bought the yellow contrast you used and I worked like a charm. I was so excited thinking I had just saved my model from a dirty pollen yellow existence that I ended up painting the whole thing, loving it and then remembering you saying that it'd be best to color the other none yellow items (such as the Bolt pistol) black or whatever color before contrast because of the very situation I'm in 😅 ugh. Jumped the gun, dare I say rushed and I paid the price. Thanks for saving the day again I will have to pick some up after work
7:09 shootout from a rebel army’s drug lab?
I like.
I am a true son of dorn
*hugs*
@@DarcyBonoCreations thanks for being one of the only mfs on reddit to not shit on my first marine btw
Aw, Reddit can be quite a cesspool at times. At least you know that anybody who takes time out of their day to make someone feel worse about themselves, is probably a pretty miserable person.
@@DarcyBonoCreations absolute hellscape tbh. I post on it just to flex that im happy with my model
this technique makes so much more sense to me than the commonly recommended base > zenithal > highlight > contrast, which frankly looks terrible outside of youtube.
This is the first time I've seen something painted with the new Imperial Fists yellow, it's very impressive! Never thought I'd see a yellow paint cover like that. Cheers for showcasing it like that. Very nice terminators as well!
Imperial Fists were my first army back in 1989, yes I'm old, at the time my painting process involved yellow paint straight out of the pot all over, then a bit of silver on the guns, finished off with a goblin green base. Each model took about 1 minute. They weren't good...
Aaay! 89 my birth year 😄.
Yeah that sounds about right for all of us pre internet childhood kids. I really wish they'd bring back Goblin Green just for nostalgia sake. Warboss Green is close but not quite the same 😔
Oh wow this is great! I tried a test marine with just Imperial Fist and it just looked too flat, so I abandoned it. I'll definitely revisit that test model now with this technique. Thank you!