Dave i would have the ramps on a tray in the back of your beaver tail saves carrying them from front to back I agree with the side tool boxes on the side easy access I have trailer envy
Create a box that sits in the opening under the lower deck make a skidding tray that pulls out 3 feet with a seals door. Your. Ramps angle IRON same width as the ramp you have a ton of room for many things. Take care Dave.
Get a slim pack rat tool box for a pickup and slide it in the hole behind the rear axle. They are a pullout drawer that will slide in and you just weld/bolt to the frame. 1 hour install.
Polypropylene sheets are light, flexible and strong. That or aluminum sheet metal can cover that angled part of trailer closest to truck. Even if you do full fenders and a brush type mud flap (like RV haulers) your cargo is still getting blasted by road grime. Just a thought *edit Nice work graduating from a 25 year old standard cab F350 up to this point
Put ramps in the middle of the end of trailer and a securement system and tool boxes slide into the sides. may have to have them made and u may like to have drawers in them
look into rv slide out treys with doors on each side , and they slide out either on either side whenever whereever you need, you could put three in there ,
My choice would be toolboxes hung off a bulkhead wall under the goose, Would provide protection for the car that is riding in the belly and would keep tools and straps easily accessible, unless there is a reason that this could not be done. This is a very common set-up on gooseneck horsetrailers
Ive seen tests where theyve demonstrated that if more weight is in the azz of the trailer it is the most unsafe as it has much greater potential to whip side to side or lose traction as well as wear the equipment down excessively due to an imbalance of weight. The most weighg shoukd always be in the middle to back(close to truck). Even if there is 1 car on the whole trailer, place it accordingly. NOTE: This is not what I KNOW, but more so, What ive seen an actual demostration of which displayed multiple traction examples with each example having the weight on the trailer shifted in multiple spots on the trailer and the outcome of traction control of each spot.. Just sharing that.
How long are your ramps? Of it's not longer than the width of your trailer you could rack them in between the 45 degree angled support beams of the gooseneck? It's a distance to carry to the back, but they are out of the way. Also would serve as a rock and mud blocker for the front lower car. Could custom build boxes in between the gaps of the trailer like you said. Would give you lots of storage.
nothing beats sun country you can put airbags on truck to improve the pressure of that top car on drive axle also you can have an upgrade for the ramps where they come out with button (hydraulic) which i have. And i have upgraded my trailer axle to 18k and fortified trailer floor i also have heavy duty plastic for the first bottom car that with some holes for wind and cleans out really easily and car in bottom never gets dirty amazing trailer that you do can do so much with it its amazing trailer
Sharp setup. Maybe I missed it, but what is your max length with flips out on front and rear, plus the car overhang when loaded? I know many states are super picky with car hauler dimensions. Also, have you been inspected yet with the new trailer?
@@Hotshotdave looking into getting a 5500 for non cdl power only to start then get my cdl and get a 40ft gooseneck, what do you think seeing you came from hotshot to big rig
Looks like a COPART CAR. Keeping a eye on those drivers is a must. Good luck.
Dave i would have the ramps on a tray in the back of your beaver tail saves carrying them from front to back
I agree with the side tool boxes on the side easy access
I have trailer envy
You can add a sliding toolbox system that helps tuck it away and get access to your tools by sliding it out when you need it
Put toolbox underneath in front of the tyres where you said would be prime spot, then hang ramps, lift ramps off sides to access boxes
Create a box that sits in the opening under the lower deck make a skidding tray that pulls out 3 feet with a seals door. Your. Ramps angle IRON same width as the ramp you have a ton of room for many things. Take care Dave.
Use the 3 square openings infront of the tires. Get a frame welded in there and have your fabricator set it up so they can slide in and out.
Right behind you tandem you can build a toolbox inside the framing with access from either side or put it in the framing next to your hydraulics
Get a slim pack rat tool box for a pickup and slide it in the hole behind the rear axle. They are a pullout drawer that will slide in and you just weld/bolt to the frame. 1 hour install.
Polypropylene sheets are light, flexible and strong. That or aluminum sheet metal can cover that angled part of trailer closest to truck. Even if you do full fenders and a brush type mud flap (like RV haulers) your cargo is still getting blasted by road grime. Just a thought
*edit
Nice work graduating from a 25 year old standard cab F350 up to this point
Put ramps in the middle of the end of trailer and a securement system and tool boxes slide into the sides. may have to have them made and u may like to have drawers in them
look into rv slide out treys with doors on each side , and they slide out either on either side whenever whereever you need, you could put three in there ,
Rock shield for the bottom and mount a tool box under the neck in the pump and some on the truck in front of the read tires
Oh and for the rocks cheap rubber mat washer and screwed to the angel beams by the hydrolics
Measure space on side of trailer ventricular braces, may be able to use harbor freight box
Put the ramps on an angle under the deck.make a slip for them, With locks
My choice would be toolboxes hung off a bulkhead wall under the goose, Would provide protection for the car that is riding in the belly and would keep tools and straps easily accessible, unless there is a reason that this could not be done. This is a very common set-up on gooseneck horsetrailers
Ive seen tests where theyve demonstrated that if more weight is in the azz of the trailer it is the most unsafe as it has much greater potential to whip side to side or lose traction as well as wear the equipment down excessively due to an imbalance of weight. The most weighg shoukd always be in the middle to back(close to truck). Even if there is 1 car on the whole trailer, place it accordingly.
NOTE: This is not what I KNOW, but more so, What ive seen an actual demostration of which displayed multiple traction examples with each example having the weight on the trailer shifted in multiple spots on the trailer and the outcome of traction control of each spot.. Just sharing that.
Hey hotshot where is Haze haven’t seen around???
Ramps under hydraulics and light that you installed and tool boxes on the right side of the trailer
Ramps under the hydraulic horizontally
And put the toolbox up there in front where it slopes down
Congrats Sun country is N1 tralier for hotshot drivers wish you to make a lot of $$$
You should look into a 5 car hauler trailer from Texas pride! I think that’s the one I’m gonna go with.
How long are your ramps? Of it's not longer than the width of your trailer you could rack them in between the 45 degree angled support beams of the gooseneck? It's a distance to carry to the back, but they are out of the way. Also would serve as a rock and mud blocker for the front lower car. Could custom build boxes in between the gaps of the trailer like you said. Would give you lots of storage.
Hi bro, you need CDL for transportation 4 cars?
Dlide through tool boxes like the motor homes. 😊
Hi, can I pull this trailer with 2017 RAM 3500 dually?
backing up a large suv on those flippers on top is always scary for me
even after a year now
That trailer is very versatile. wish I knew about it. 4 years ago. I'm running a crappie ez4. Doesn't even come close to this trailer
nothing beats sun country
you can put airbags on truck to improve the pressure of that top car on drive axle
also you can have an upgrade for the ramps where they come out with button (hydraulic) which i have. And i have upgraded my trailer axle to 18k
and fortified trailer floor
i also have heavy duty plastic for the first bottom car that with some holes for wind and cleans out really easily and car in bottom never gets dirty
amazing trailer that you do can do so much with it
its amazing trailer
Sharp setup. Maybe I missed it, but what is your max length with flips out on front and rear, plus the car overhang when loaded? I know many states are super picky with car hauler dimensions. Also, have you been inspected yet with the new trailer?
Hows the MPG with new turbo n trailer ?
Nice trailer.
Slid drawers in the empty space under cars
Some chicken lights on that trailer would look soo good🔥
When you load a car backwards do you ever have a flip out window come open and shatter
Do you put the cars E brakes on after putting them in park?
Why change it to grease if the hubs are good.....?
I got mine on a rack and pin for the ramps
What is the price of that kind of trailer
Who does your fabrication in KY?
Yoooo, that custom Excursion at 11:34 thooo🔥🔥🔥
I talked to him it was a Ford F-250 with an excursion body kit. They sell the whole kits
@@Hotshotdave whew!🔥🔥🔥
What size truck do you have to haul 4 / 5 cars ?
It won’t get to top heavy and feel like the trailer is going to go over when you turn real sharp
Just have a slide out from belley
Can you haul 80,000 gvw with this
You gonna kille this truck
Its a 5500 made to work.not a 1 ton dually
Qhat happened to this trailer?
Is this trailer the 40’ metro?
No this is the 53ft 4/5 car converted to 5
Just saw a setup like that recently 🤔
Was copilot mouthy?
On a 3 car wedge how would you load 3 pick ups ????
Back the first two on the last foward
Canada Rob
One at a time😂😂
Is this a 10.5 bed?
11ft I believe e 85 c/a
@@Hotshotdave looking into getting a 5500 for non cdl power only to start then get my cdl and get a 40ft gooseneck, what do you think seeing you came from hotshot to big rig
Non cdl power only will not be enough IMO.
@@Hotshotdave the way I was looking at it is power only you are mostly hauling campers and are never going to go over 26k then I can work into flatbed
First after first cooking bacon fir breakfast 🥓🥓
Shut up behind the axle One side to the other
I got u covered .. u just got to get here.. u no were here is🤦♂️
How much for this trailer?
35k
@@88sandile what???
I got the perfect finders and ramp setup for you send me a message I can send pictures to
Now you just need a "real" truck !!!
Them extension are weak
first lmao
What's up dave
Got em