Rivets have much better holding power, but are very difficult to get as flush as the pins. In applications where aesthetics or smoothness matters more than holding strength, a reamed hole makes more sense. You can do counter sunk flush rivets too, but there are harder to get a nice finish with.
As someone who commented on this in the last video, I didn't realize that you were doing any reaming to the holes in the cheeks and was worried that the assembly might loosen up under strain. This totally clears it up for me. Thanks for the explanation! Great content, as always!
You were taught correctly. As you know the reamer only cuts clockwise. When I reversed it was not cutting. (bad habit) For the video I should have removed and reset. It's a bit like using a mill file, it too only cut on the out stroke yet many of us drag the file back over the work. Thanks for your comment and watching. Bob
OK, I understand the difference between the two types you demonstrated. How do you determine which type to use? Also what about rivets with domed ends? When do you use that type and why? Or why not? The blocks you are making are beautiful. I voted for wood. I want to change my vote. The bronze is absolutely outstanding. 👍👍 Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
While "We" all know your pins had shoulders from watching your previous beautiful block work, your cool little sketch did not depict them. Thanks so much !
Your printing takes me back to my drafting days. Your style is quit similar to mine. Seeing your construction lines is what attracted my attention to your lettering.
Your a class act Bob, i really enjoy your videos. I am learning so much from you. I will be building a small workshop soon and stripbuilding a canoe or dory. I have a tupperware canoe i would like to fit a sailing rig to, so these videos are giving me lots of good ideas. Thanks from Arizona.
Really interesting indeed! Thanks, Bob! 😃 I didn't ask or anything, but I was wondering about it during the last video! Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
An additional explanation of the mechanics of the two fastening styles might have been helpful to some. Correct me if I'm wrong, the rivet peening relies on the preformed head at one end and the deformed head on the other end to hold the rivet in place. The preformed head on one end and the deformed head at the other end create physical barriers preventing the pin from traveling in either direction. Where pin peening is causing a press fit condition of the pin to each cheek. The press fit condition enables you to grind down the deformed pin end and still have pin retention.
But you don’t say which is better or why you wouldn’t make the rivet peen flush or when you would use one over the other. I knew nothing about this but NOW I do have questions! :)
If it were me, I’d show holding the block just like you, but after a few seconds, time lapse/jump the video to more peening were I’d have blackened my thumb nail with a sharpie. Maybe a suggestion for April fools day. 😂 Seriously though, very informative video. Thanks.
I disagree with your explanation of riveting, as an engineerung apprentice we were taught that the first actioin in riveting was to "upset" the rivet with the flat face of the hammer, so as to expand the body of the rivet in the the hole so that it becomes a very tight fit in the hole and not as you said clearance
That is exactly what I did. I mentioned using the flat side of the hammer first. This video was not meant to be a tutorial but an explanation of the difference. There has to be a clearance for the pin to fit in so that the peened pin can expand into the reamed clearance. Thanks for watching.
Obvious (to me) follow-up question: When would you use one method vs the other?
Rivets have much better holding power, but are very difficult to get as flush as the pins. In applications where aesthetics or smoothness matters more than holding strength, a reamed hole makes more sense.
You can do counter sunk flush rivets too, but there are harder to get a nice finish with.
As someone who commented on this in the last video, I didn't realize that you were doing any reaming to the holes in the cheeks and was worried that the assembly might loosen up under strain. This totally clears it up for me. Thanks for the explanation! Great content, as always!
Me either. It seemed like just pin peened without tapering would pull out. Thanks for the video Bob. Very informative!
I was amazed at how the pins disappear . Make it beautiful ..... done .
Bob of here hammering the facts out
You’re fun to watch and I never fail to learn something new. Thank you. From Missouri
Hi Bob, great site, I was taught never to reverse a reamer, always turn in the cutting direction for accuracy and to preserve the reamer cutting edges
You were taught correctly. As you know the reamer only cuts clockwise. When I reversed it was not cutting. (bad habit) For the video I should have removed and reset. It's a bit like using a mill file, it too only cut on the out stroke yet many of us drag the file back over the work.
Thanks for your comment and watching.
Bob
Another beautiful video sir of a true master craftsman. Thank you so very much for your service and time that you give back to the community.
Thank you very much!
OK, I understand the difference between the two types you demonstrated. How do you determine which type to use? Also what about rivets with domed ends? When do you use that type and why? Or why not? The blocks you are making are beautiful. I voted for wood. I want to change my vote. The bronze is absolutely outstanding. 👍👍 Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
Well happy Tuesday, and an Art of Boat Building episode to go with my coffee. Nice!
While "We" all know your pins had shoulders from watching your previous beautiful block work, your cool little sketch did not depict them. Thanks so much !
Really excellent. A beautifully simple video delivering an outstanding lesson.
Your printing takes me back to my drafting days. Your style is quit similar to mine. Seeing your construction lines is what attracted my attention to your lettering.
Also reminds me of drafting class in paper and pencil over 60 years ago in high school.
Great class Bob, thank you for doing this.
Good job explaining the difference between the two.
Your a class act Bob, i really enjoy your videos. I am learning so much from you. I will be building a small workshop soon and stripbuilding a canoe or dory. I have a tupperware canoe i would like to fit a sailing rig to, so these videos are giving me lots of good ideas. Thanks from Arizona.
What ?! A tool I don't have? Now I'm shopping for a long taper reamer. Thanks for the excepttional videos.
Really interesting indeed! Thanks, Bob! 😃
I didn't ask or anything, but I was wondering about it during the last video!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
An additional explanation of the mechanics of the two fastening styles might have been helpful to some. Correct me if I'm wrong, the rivet peening relies on the preformed head at one end and the deformed head on the other end to hold the rivet in place. The preformed head on one end and the deformed head at the other end create physical barriers preventing the pin from traveling in either direction. Where pin peening is causing a press fit condition of the pin to each cheek. The press fit condition enables you to grind down the deformed pin end and still have pin retention.
Very good demonstration. 👍
Another great AOBB Bob. If you are not careful sharing your secrets then everyone will be making beautiful items just like you. Thanks for sharing!
So I understand the difference between the two, but when should you use one and not the other?
I believe it depends on the hole
Thanks a lot that is very helpful
You can teach an old dog new tricks. Reminds me of near 70 years ago when my dad taught me how to rivet new sections on the hay mower.
Thank you for the video.
You're welcome
Great vid
Thanks for that. It all makes sense now 🙂.
But you don’t say which is better or why you wouldn’t make the rivet peen flush or when you would use one over the other. I knew nothing about this but NOW I do have questions! :)
If it were me, I’d show holding the block just like you, but after a few seconds, time lapse/jump the video to more peening were I’d have blackened my thumb nail with a sharpie. Maybe a suggestion for April fools day. 😂 Seriously though, very informative video. Thanks.
good one!
thanks. to an uniformed like myself it would seem that the pin should be countersunk and the rivet wouldnt need to be... why isnt that the case?
I was wondering this too. It would seem like you would only need to countersink a rivet if you wanted to grind it flush with the surface.
👍👍⛵⛵⚓⚓⛵⛵👍👍
Try saying that three times in a row! 😂
I disagree with your explanation of riveting, as an engineerung apprentice we were taught that the first actioin in riveting was to "upset" the rivet with the flat face of the hammer, so as to expand the body of the rivet in the the hole so that it becomes a very tight fit in the hole and not as you said clearance
That is exactly what I did. I mentioned using the flat side of the hammer first.
This video was not meant to be a tutorial but an explanation of the difference. There has to be a clearance for the pin to fit in so that the peened pin can expand into the reamed clearance.
Thanks for watching.
........Cheers!