Just a quick overview of this nice US 1500w metal halide lamp and how I got it going without the correct control gear. Skip to 03:35 if you just want to see it lit!
Large metal halide bulbs are great room heaters, as of course they consume a lot of power to basically keep the metal salts disassociated and vaporized so they're involved in production of light. Also, interestingly enough, you could potentially get more radiant heat from the ceramic metal halide bulbs, as the ceramic arc tube is of course almost incandescent hot once the lamp is completely warmed up (I was kinda surprised that there's much more heat from 35 - 39 Watts ceramic metal halide bulbs compared to the car Xenon metal halide bulbs of the same wattage - even on the same car HID inverter ballast which the particular CMH bulbs also work just fine with).
@@FrontSideBus excellent dude, I have very little knowledge on the light types but I do power some up myself sometimes mercury vapour and hps but never dealt with metal halide...I like that green they go when they get old...but the best colour tone of them all when the MH is new 👌the workings of them are fascinating.
In the USA these 1500 watt metal halides are still commonly used in stadiums and large arenas, although in the last few years LED has become really common One thing I noticed with this lamp is only one end of the arc tube has the white ceramic coating, whereas all the other metal halide lamps I've seen have both ends coated to help retain heat to keep the salts vaporized. Since you mentioned a 1500W lamp is more or less a 1000w lamp overdriven a bit, I assume running 1500w produces enough heat to vaporize all the salts with one end coated? If one end is coated does that also determine the burning position, such as base up or base down ?
Yeah this HBD lamp is really meant for base down operation so the reflective coated is not really needed at the top. They also do this lamp in HBU flavour which I assume would have the coating missing on the other end.
That coating is (usually) zirconium oxide, and serves as a heat reflector to keep the electrode next to it at the right operating temperature for electron emission. Lamps meant for vertical burning up or down only don't have this coating on the upper electrode, as it gets hot enough from plasma convection and having an IR coating as well would overheat it. Other oxide coatings also work; Russian/Soviet halide lamps in particular use chromium oxide, which is distinctive for being bright green. 40W and 50W mercury lamps often use (very thin) platinum coatings for electrode heating in order to accelerate lamp warmup.
I wonder what would happen if a 1 kW were to be run on a 1.5 kW ballast. I would assume that doing so would dramatically reduce lamp life, lower than that of a 1.5 on a 1.5
Large metal halide bulbs are great room heaters, as of course they consume a lot of power to basically keep the metal salts disassociated and vaporized so they're involved in production of light.
Also, interestingly enough, you could potentially get more radiant heat from the ceramic metal halide bulbs, as the ceramic arc tube is of course almost incandescent hot once the lamp is completely warmed up (I was kinda surprised that there's much more heat from 35 - 39 Watts ceramic metal halide bulbs compared to the car Xenon metal halide bulbs of the same wattage - even on the same car HID inverter ballast which the particular CMH bulbs also work just fine with).
I love these video types 👌🔥
In that case I will try and do more!
@@FrontSideBus excellent dude, I have very little knowledge on the light types but I do power some up myself sometimes mercury vapour and hps but never dealt with metal halide...I like that green they go when they get old...but the best colour tone of them all when the MH is new 👌the workings of them are fascinating.
In the USA these 1500 watt metal halides are still commonly used in stadiums and large arenas, although in the last few years LED has become really common
One thing I noticed with this lamp is only one end of the arc tube has the white ceramic coating, whereas all the other metal halide lamps I've seen have both ends coated to help retain heat to keep the salts vaporized. Since you mentioned a 1500W lamp is more or less a 1000w lamp overdriven a bit, I assume running 1500w produces enough heat to vaporize all the salts with one end coated? If one end is coated does that also determine the burning position, such as base up or base down ?
Yeah this HBD lamp is really meant for base down operation so the reflective coated is not really needed at the top.
They also do this lamp in HBU flavour which I assume would have the coating missing on the other end.
That coating is (usually) zirconium oxide, and serves as a heat reflector to keep the electrode next to it at the right operating temperature for electron emission. Lamps meant for vertical burning up or down only don't have this coating on the upper electrode, as it gets hot enough from plasma convection and having an IR coating as well would overheat it. Other oxide coatings also work; Russian/Soviet halide lamps in particular use chromium oxide, which is distinctive for being bright green.
40W and 50W mercury lamps often use (very thin) platinum coatings for electrode heating in order to accelerate lamp warmup.
I've got a Sylvania 1500w MH. Nothing to power it with, though.
I wonder what would happen if a 1 kW were to be run on a 1.5 kW ballast. I would assume that doing so would dramatically reduce lamp life, lower than that of a 1.5 on a 1.5
Would probably light but as its not really meant for it, it would be a strange colour ect.
If need more hot, 1000w hps will be good choice, yellow light, more emmiting