Thank you so much for your informative video ! We just bought the Storm Buster panels yesterday and I live the fact , they are so secure ! We are planning to keep 3 of the panels in the Windows all year around , for extra security purpose . Because of your Video, you gave me a diffetent idea to make sure no one can take the panels out without using a Tool ! Not even a burglar can get in easy ! Great video !
To add to my previous comment, I've decided that instead of drilling into my window mullions, I'm going to use aluminum L extrusion to make a "frame" that fits OVER my hurricane panels. So I'll have the window, then the panel, and then the aluminum frame. I'm going to put lead anchors into the masonry around the window so that there's nothing protruding when the panels aren't installed. I'll have a hardware bag attached to each set of "frames" (drilled to match the lead anchors and labeled to an extreme ;-)) containing the screws for that window. I'm planning to leave the top piece of frame for each panel installed so it's a one-woman job to put them up, and maybe I won't even need a ladder. The top piece of frame will hold the panel while I install the other three pieces of frame. If this works, I'll do a video to show you how I did it.
I bought my materials over a year ago but I have the same windows as you, with the additional problem of molded-in masonry "shutters". I'm so happy to see how you're handling this issue. It really helps me make a plan to actually cut and install mine. Thanks so much!
I have only had to put mine up once since that video. Just make sure you can screw into the framing and not one of the muttons or rails nearest the glass. Don’t want to crack any glass. Good luck.
@@ShumonSylar good question that I meant to address. Hopefully you have not drilled all the way through to the inside. I used some clear caulk over the holes when taken down. That way there is no wind or water intrusion, but the hole is still usable the next time you have to put them up.
@@whatsstephendoing3650 Do you think is best to put back the screws in? I would paint them white so they win be that noticeable. And I was even thinking of getting the screws in silicon, that way when are screw back in, the holes are covered with silicone... I wonder if that would work
@@cesaraybar2232 you could, but paint in the screw heads sometimes makes them hard to deal with later. Just a little caulk pushed with a finger works great for me.
They have hurricane clips-no drilling. I will use that but considering a spacing so it’s not next to the window. Maybe pool noodle cut as a spacer? Hmm.
I don't know about storm buster specifically, but another brand of these type of coverings requires a minimum of 2-3/4" of space between the window and the shutter.
I had hoped that someone might answer. I don’t know of any actual install companies, but almost any tool savvy person that is not afraid of working from a ladder can probably do the job.
According to website, Storm-Buster Panels have successfully passed the ASTM E 1996 High Impact Large Missile Test Standard. Let’s be clear: Passing that test does not mean they will stop everything or that the underlying window or door will not get broken or damaged - especially if there is little spacing between the panel and what they are trying to protect. In my installation method, no space is left between the panel and the window, so I can almost guarantee that a missile impact would break the underlying window. However, my goal is more to keep the damage to a minimum. Best protection would be to install the panels on the outside of the window frame (to the body of the house). I think I mentioned that fact in my video. In my situation, these are old windows that will eventually be replaced with storm grade windows. So I’m just trying to protect the interior of the house. Hope that helps.
@@whatsstephendoing3650 It would almost definitely break your window, a 2x4 at 34 mph will make these panels flex inwards several inches upon impact. Once that window is broken, these panels will not prevent wind from entering the home. Once wind enters the home, it has to find a way out of the home and that is typically through the ceiling, into the attic and that's how roofs are lost.
@@brianization3874 you are correct. I think I first mentioned that the instructions tell you to install on the outside of the window frame. That usually would leave some space between it and the glass for flexing. In my case, I wanted to prevent penetration, but wasn’t worried about saving the glass. At the time it was my intention to eventually replace my windows with true storm rated windows - which I just completed in recent weeks. I did put these up and down multiple times over several years. So they were worth the effort.
Thank you so much for your informative video ! We just bought the Storm Buster panels yesterday and I live the fact , they are so secure ! We are planning to keep 3 of the panels in the Windows all year around , for extra security purpose . Because of your Video, you gave me a diffetent idea to make sure no one can take the panels out without using a Tool ! Not even a burglar can get in easy ! Great video !
To add to my previous comment, I've decided that instead of drilling into my window mullions, I'm going to use aluminum L extrusion to make a "frame" that fits OVER my hurricane panels. So I'll have the window, then the panel, and then the aluminum frame. I'm going to put lead anchors into the masonry around the window so that there's nothing protruding when the panels aren't installed. I'll have a hardware bag attached to each set of "frames" (drilled to match the lead anchors and labeled to an extreme ;-)) containing the screws for that window. I'm planning to leave the top piece of frame for each panel installed so it's a one-woman job to put them up, and maybe I won't even need a ladder. The top piece of frame will hold the panel while I install the other three pieces of frame. If this works, I'll do a video to show you how I did it.
I bought my materials over a year ago but I have the same windows as you, with the additional problem of molded-in masonry "shutters". I'm so happy to see how you're handling this issue. It really helps me make a plan to actually cut and install mine. Thanks so much!
I have only had to put mine up once since that video. Just make sure you can screw into the framing and not one of the muttons or rails nearest the glass. Don’t want to crack any glass. Good luck.
Will the holes on the window frame make em leak in water when you take them off?
@@ShumonSylar good question that I meant to address. Hopefully you have not drilled all the way through to the inside. I used some clear caulk over the holes when taken down. That way there is no wind or water intrusion, but the hole is still usable the next time you have to put them up.
@@whatsstephendoing3650 Do you think is best to put back the screws in? I would paint them white so they win be that noticeable. And I was even thinking of getting the screws in silicon, that way when are screw back in, the holes are covered with silicone... I wonder if that would work
@@cesaraybar2232 you could, but paint in the screw heads sometimes makes them hard to deal with later. Just a little caulk pushed with a finger works great for me.
They have hurricane clips-no drilling. I will use that but considering a spacing so it’s not next to the window. Maybe pool noodle cut as a spacer? Hmm.
I don't know about storm buster specifically, but another brand of these type of coverings requires a minimum of 2-3/4" of space between the window and the shutter.
Does anybody know if there are installers for this in the Bradenton Area?
I had hoped that someone might answer. I don’t know of any actual install companies, but almost any tool savvy person that is not afraid of working from a ladder can probably do the job.
There are but they charge a fortune. Try a local handyman to put in the anchors and cut the panels.
It would be nice to see the 2x4 test against one of the panels...
According to website, Storm-Buster Panels have successfully passed the ASTM E 1996 High Impact Large Missile Test Standard. Let’s be clear: Passing that test does not mean they will stop everything or that the underlying window or door will not get broken or damaged - especially if there is little spacing between the panel and what they are trying to protect. In my installation method, no space is left between the panel and the window, so I can almost guarantee that a missile impact would break the underlying window. However, my goal is more to keep the damage to a minimum. Best protection would be to install the panels on the outside of the window frame (to the body of the house). I think I mentioned that fact in my video. In my situation, these are old windows that will eventually be replaced with storm grade windows. So I’m just trying to protect the interior of the house. Hope that helps.
@@whatsstephendoing3650 I('d probably double the material and see what happens.
@@whatsstephendoing3650 It would almost definitely break your window, a 2x4 at 34 mph will make these panels flex inwards several inches upon impact. Once that window is broken, these panels will not prevent wind from entering the home. Once wind enters the home, it has to find a way out of the home and that is typically through the ceiling, into the attic and that's how roofs are lost.
@@brianization3874 you are correct. I think I first mentioned that the instructions tell you to install on the outside of the window frame. That usually would leave some space between it and the glass for flexing. In my case, I wanted to prevent penetration, but wasn’t worried about saving the glass. At the time it was my intention to eventually replace my windows with true storm rated windows - which I just completed in recent weeks.
I did put these up and down multiple times over several years. So they were worth the effort.