Great video man, I just replaced a new clutch again, the mechanic claims that I was riding on the clutch etc. I knew I wasn’t because I’ve mentioned to him as I’m driving, I was hearing a scrubbing noise, so yes I believe that’s exactly what it was, the bearings while they claim it was me smh.
Been there, had mine adjusted backwards, fully tight. Smoked the clutch. Having issues with z bar and linkage now. Buying a new clutch starting over. Last time split z bar and bent clutch fork. Lesson learned.
How would you know if it's too far? How far is too far and how close is too close? I did a conversion myself and not sure sure if I should have put a spacer behind the push out bearing.
I have a 83 toyota corolla wagon AE71 rwd 1.6 that I changed over to a 5 speed manual. I had to make the hydraulic line from the master to the slave . I can not get the free travel I need on the pedal . I can adjust it so it has about 1/4 free travel, then as soon as the engine gets to operating temperature it has no free travel . First thing it the morning the pedal has the 1/4" free travel then after the engine warms up the travel is gone with O free travel. I can adjust it after the engine gets to operating temperature and have 1/4" free travel. Then when it cools down the pedal has way to much travel with the clutch catching right on the floor. And information would be greatly appreciated ...
Double check for air in the system also make sure the hydraulic line you made from the slave to the master has the proper fittings that could be another issue that would result in the same problem.
@@Mustard-Bargain well, just a quick theory, was maybe modify the body of the slave (skimming down the ears, so the plunger fits deeper into the bell housing/clutch fork). Dunno if it's been done before, or not, or whether it can even be done, lol. My mind was just wandering...
I’m looking to upgrade my clutch and throw out bearing on my 325xi 2004 any tips or recommendations on better performance brands where I wont find myself causing more issues by putting the throw out bearing on too tight or loose.
What could cause a pressure plate to stop returning back to normal position after only 60k miles and only after we removed it? Comparing it to a brand new one, the plate doesn't return up as high.
2009 corvette manual, new mcleod clutch new slave cylinder, new torque tube. get rattling noise w/clutch engaged, no noise clutch disengaged. if i remove the slave cylinder, no noise. what can i do to stop this noise?
I just had my clutch, pressure plate and flywheel replaced on my Honda. All the gears are entering fine, but when releasing the clutch pedal nothing happens. The axles are all the way in for both wheels so I'm wondering if the issue would be because of the release bearing adjustment. Any ideas?
I had to replace my manual transmission on my 23 wrx (not paying 12k). Found a 22 trans on marketplace and installed it on my car. I go to start it up and none of the gears are open, almost as if clutch is engaged. When the car is off, it will go into all gears but 5. Clutch was thought to be good so wasnt replaced. What would the resolution in my instance be?
@actionclutch Any advice or help much appreciated I have a 2013 dodge dart 1.4 and have herd installing a clutch delay valve delete kit helps keep the slave cylinder and clutch alive. Any thoughts on this since my slave cylinder is inside the transmission and cost me $1000 to replace.
I have vauxhall insignia 1.8 petrol, 6 gears. I changed the gearbox, the flywheel and the clutch... some times I hear noise when driving it. When I press the clutch down the noise stops. The moment I release my legs from the clutch the noise comes back.. I don't know what the problem is.. can you please help me out
buddy had the same problem with his g35 sedan. one day it happened out of the blue and we couldent figure out the problem. one day of just went back to normal
I would check the pedal adjustment it's possible the release bearing is making contact with the pressure plate, if so adjust accordingly using specs from the service manual.
Great video, informative and to the point! I'm currently trying to diagnose a problem with my car since the clutch won't fully disengage and start to slip and spin the wheels if I put it in neutral and let out the clutch pedal. You hear the whirring vibrating sound from within the car and it's really notiecable, even more so outside. A mechanic changed the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing, the slave cylinder and the clutch hose without any improvement. Also machined the flywheel. Any chance it has to do with the adjustment or is it more likely to be a pilot bearing or something?
Yes sounds like an adjustment issue where the throw out bearing still touching the pressure plate that causing the clutch to still trying to engage with out pressing down on the clutch pedal.
I have an e46. Clutch is slipping bad after replacing. Everything brand new. Just replaced slave as well. Theres no adjustment for clutch under the dash. The clutch has 0 freeplay and engages at very top of travel. Any tips?
Quick question: I bought my first manual car BRZ and when I’m in first or second gear at around 1-2k RPMs it jerks, as if there’s friction in a part of a full rotation that causes it to jerk like if I’m applying brake and then gas, brake and then gas, repeatedly. My foot is not on the clutch and I’m just applying a steady pressure on the gas. I know that it jerks if it’s in low RPM or if I don’t clutch correctly. But it isn’t the same type of jerking and I don’t think it should be this way. Maybe my clutch is worn off or something else is wrong. If you guys or girls have any suggestions please let me know. Thank you.
Hello doesn’t sound like a clutch issue it could be other issues as like worn mounts, bushing or even tires with uneven wear. I would suggest to get inspected by mechanic.
I bought a 2001 gt bullitt mustang. Very well taken car of but seems to have a hard clutch pedal and grabs as soon as it comes off floor. Seems okay but should I have to push to the floor to shift. Short legs and haven't driven a clutch for years. Ty
I just wanna be sure, if your where driving a manual car and when you go to give it gas on gear 1 it Rev high, when you are in high gear like 4 and give it gas it Rev high for a bit before going, the speed does climb but slow not to slowly, heard it's clutch slip but just want to be sure before dropping 2.5k on a new clutch
Sounds like your clutch disc is gone and struggling to grip. $2.5k for a clutch is why I learned to do my own work or figure it out as I go. My whole clutch kit was $90, if I had taken it to a shop it been easy $1000.
@@jamessettles6485 all is good now, had a friend to help me for a case of beer and good meat as a payment, just broke in the clutch 4 weeks ago, runs way smoother then before
Nice video. One question. I thought neutral was a gear in the gearbox where power doesn’t go out through the output shaft. A disengaged clutch means no power to the input shaft?
if its a stickshift and you really need to get somewhere you can start it in gear then float gears to your destination, not very stustainable and basically impossible in traffic though
Double check that adjustment is done/ done correctly sounds like it is being overtraveled and this will cause gear lockout and prematurely wear out the clutch unit. -Cub
I have an 07 f-150 xl the clutch pedal feels okay it isn't sticking but I can't get the car to actually give power to the gears I can shift when stopped with no clutch pressed help
Did you paint that pressure plate or did it come painted like that already? My Valeo single mass fly wheel kit was rusted out of the box. I dont want it to rust so easily.
I just did an ACT clutch install on my 09 Mazdaspeed 3 I’m basically rebuilding …it’s not too terrible I did it in my garage with no lift and I’m not a professional mechanic just a home mechanic my main advice would be to make sure you organize and or draw diagrams to know where every bolt goes back(took me a lot of research from rushing disassembly) and it will make it 100x easier..other than that just look up a good guide on TH-cam for a Mazda 3 clutch change with the brand of clutch you have and follow it step by step and make sure not to skip out the last thing you want to do is have to pull it all back apart when done so its usually very recommended to replace the slave cylinder and the clutch release fork as well the same time your are replacing the clutch..hope that helps some!
Fellow 9th gen here pretty sure somethings fucked, car feels like it's lurching in neutral from vibrations, additionally it sounds like a diesel pickup now, not sure if I fucked up my whole tranny or not. Car still drives okay, but clutch sometimes feels like it's not engaging not sure if it's a shifter issue or what's going on with it but shit not looking forward to shelling out $2k for a rebuild or new tranny
Just had a shop put in new clutch kit in my 2011 jetta 2.5l .. and been just 3 weeks.. Valero brand with(Single mass-fly wheel)..then they had to order slave cylinder too..(also tire ballance/rotations)..it feels cheap!.. for starters the bite point feels wierd & real low, clutch pedal feels light weak. When i accelerate i hear chattering(light chain chinging noises).. also when car is sitting still in neutral (been hearing light tapping clinking noises) but push in clutch goes away!> Throw out bearing??.. also last week i was driving & my rear right wheel drum brake started screeching outa nowhere, then minutes later front left wheel did the same.. then the front left started scraping & then sounded like whole caliper broke lose>clumps rattlessquealing then stopped.. & would make those noises off & on! So I went home noticed my rear right screeching wheel/Rim(w-drum) was full coated of black dust but all other rims where clean..I jacked car up removed front left tire noticed 2 lug nuts Lose!.. i get to caliper and noticed sliding pins were sticky , sticking alot in 1,( pads rotors looked okay. So i cleanedup caliper/rotor/&sliding pins!.. i greased those put it all together.. now I had brake fluid cap off & seen that it was way past full to brim.. as i pushed brake in few times some flowed out!.. Now whats wierd is the mechanic told me I NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES*.. I did ask why? There was no problems before at all+ he said something like it was already low on brake fluid & brake pedal is loose!.. it was not it was the clutch pedal that was loose. This was the owner whom i am talking about.. but his technician worked on my car, who i noticed looked really young & high. Bad vibes.. I left a message on his shop phone today!.. I'm just pist 1700$ Total & i feel like something is wrong in alot of places!.. ALOT of wierd noises coming from clutch as i stated!.. motor is making clicks>rocking bqck & forth hard since left shop(mounts*?) .. Brake isses!(rear drum still screeching).((Brake fluid overfill!?))> is that an issue & Should i have to bleed this? Also sounds like exhaust is open somewhere.. Anyways I have 154kmiles & have few other issues engine light on.. my vaccum pump is leaking bad>👉 i want the spullen pump delete setup it seals up that stupid thing & then has inverted/spliced hose/tube that ends up going to brake vaccum port. Its 130$.. & last forever cheaper then a new 240$+ pump which he said i needed that for resealing wont work. My flex pipe needs to be replaced for the 3rd time since 2017!.. I'M just not happy anymore with this car! Myengine 5cyl is a great engine.. & i had alot of work done to it in 2018. 4k$ performance upgrades -Awe Track Exhaust System -Usp-dwnpipe -AFE cold air intake conversion -UM flash-Tune, 5>R8-ignition coil packs, 5>NGk TSI irid/platnm plugs. All done @New German Performance -Southbend Stg2 Daily drvr endurance Complete clutch kit w-lightweight fly wheel. 🤯lasted like 30kmiles! And this is where i am now😢 clutch was done for i did ride the heck out of it!.. but still should of lasted longer.. this new Valero clutch w- Single mass flywheel feels cheap!! Noisey!! & like its ready to fall apart!..the mechanic told me Valero was best for my $!.. that the southbend was not good clutch for my car stated that the disc material wear out fast better off getting closer to oem with my car. 🤔 Also he kept my Light weight Flywheel(Southbend) as I totally forgot to tell him, i wanted it!.. 👉💥Anyways i know i wrote a book.. But if you could please give me any advice ??.. is that shop & mechanic held accountable or responsible to look aty car & fix those issues i stated that all started >after it left the shop. Its been 3weeks! Thanks man.
It doesn't feel cheap it is cheap it's about 500 dollars cheaper than the dual mass and I prefer the solid flywheel so idk what you mean you get what you get obviously you can't expect it to be the exact same as stock when you literally converted it to a solid flywheel when the car was designed with a dual mass
@@tRuth-be-told-againor just learn how to drive if he just got it put in it needs to be broken in my clutch didn't feel the best till about 5000 miles
The bearing is bearing super over traveled and the fingers on the pressure plate are making contact with the disc that’s why it stalls out immediately check the pedal adjustment and that will solve your issue- Cub
I have a stage 3 on my rsx and my pedal has been adjusted properly as well but the clutch after breaking it in starter to make some loud rubbing noise when I release the clutch
@@maminirinaezrarandriamanan7442 nothing yet man. Still haven’t figured it out might just end up replacing it again sadly. I do notice though after i launch it a couple times it goes away for a bit but ends up coming back :(
I have same issue on 07 987.1 cayman With the clutch pushed in, it sounds fine. When clutch is out, it makes a rubbing noise (constant with the rpms I believe) No clue what it is
At first when you installed the clutch kit the adjustment might have been done good enough to give enough gap where the bearing wouldn’t rub on the fingers of the pressure plate but as a clutch kit wears in the fingers naturally lift up which is why you are now hearing noise so I would just double check the adjustment and back out as required. Best -Cub
subaru wrx 2020 just had a act clutch kit installed . when I’m in first gear, I have to give it more gas than you should pull off. If I don’t, I get the stalling effect and I have the bird chirping noise for when I first start the vehicle.
ACT clutch, Verus Clutch fork and pivot, new OEM clutch slave and master cylinder. I disconnected the clutch pedal assembly from the master cylinder to rule out clutch pedal adjustment but no success. Not sure how to adjust the travel on the slave or master cylinder.
It’s a more aggressive clutch so it will grab harder which is probably why you are having to give it more gas. Did you install a lightened flywheel with that clutch by chance?
GUYS YOU WONT BELIEVE ME, SO DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. I learned this year, the ecu is going to stall the car everytime with a lightweight clutch and flywheel, because it's accounting for a heavier setup. The only way you can fix this is by TUNING your car.
You need to check the clutch pedal adjustment it could be over traveled or under traveled will give you the same symptoms but based off the chirp sounds like it's over-traveled check out your service manual for proper specs.
Idk if you have any insight on this. I own a 2007 Impreza 2.5i 5 speed. Me belief is my clutch release bearing is either broken or too loose/tight but don’t know how to determine. It makes this odd squealish sound when idle and off the clutch. The sound goes away the moment I engage the most minimal pressure on the clutch. Don’t hear it much while I’m motion, clutch is slipping but I’m worried about wear on my plates or the bearing itself. Any insight appreciated
Hey brother sounds like the release bearing is being overtraveled you might want to check the adjustment if unsure how take it to the mechanic that installed it or check your service manual takes about 20mins or so to do 😎 -Cub
Ik this a old vid but my clutch pedal feels very loose and when I start my car and press the clutch all the way in somtimes it still doesn’t want to go to first gear and if I go to reversed the gears grind even when the clutch is down
Mine grinds neutral now because I went awol trying to get it to work I wouldn’t mess with it definitely get the clutch and throw out bearing replaced I’ll be doing it myself on my free time hope you get it to work !
Check your clutch hydraulic system for any leaks or air in the system this will cause a soft pedal and issues with grinding and difficulty getting into gears.-Cub
I would check if there is an adjustment via the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder and possibly back off the release bearing it could be over traveling.
Hey Brotha! Yes our HQ is in East LA in fact. Unfortunately we don’t have slingshot clutches at the moment. But maybe it’s something we should look into 🤔
Majority of the vehicles the adjustment is done via a pushrod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder there’s a jamnut on it and once you break it loose you turn the rod clockwise or counterclockwise this will bring the release bearing closer or further from the pressure plate depending on the vehicle. Some adjustments are different and some cars do not have one always check your service manual if unsure. -Cub
Ok my clutch has been working just fine for over a year and a half but for some reason it just started making a grinding noise when fully pressed shifting into every gear like the starter is trying to engage or something and itll also almost die why is this happening?
@@esai542 no it just stopped happening but one person i asked whos a mechanic said that it sounds like the throw out bearing but also the starter could be getting stuck to the flywheel
@@StrengthNoBounds oh damn okay yea my mechanic said it’s most likely throw out bearing, iv had my stage 3 clutch for about 2-3k miles, i did a 1k mile break in period and then got a new transmission installed then after the transmission got installed it almost instantly started making that grinding noise when i was in the break in period for my new transmission, i feel like it’s the mechanic that installed my transmission did a improper installation
@@esai542 yeah it sounds like the mechanic messed up or something, but dang i wish i had enough money to get myself a new transmission ive got a lot of metal shavings in mine and literally have to have a magnet attached to the bolt where you fill your transmission fluid on the side of the transmission. Ive got a 1996 honda civic hx 234k miles 🥲
Hey brother over time the fingers on the pressure plate lift up which is normal as a clutch kit wears I would check the clutch pedal adjustment to make sure the bearing isn't being overtraveled and you'll be good.
Throwout bearing is making unnecessary contact could be the adjustment but since your pedal is getting softer you may be experiencing a hydraulic issue which will also contribute to other issues if not addressed soon.
I would say no... Tbh my water pump was squeaky before it flew off and broke my serpentine belt... So if its on the inside it could be in need of replacing, btw what do you think is a good clutch/break set up for k24
Check the pedal adjustment release bearing sounds over traveled also make sure to run a pedal stop and adjust that accordingly to prevent over-traveling the bearing and making contact with the discs. If you hear chatter that is normal it's just the floaters engaging and disengaging.
I had a new transmittion thrown into my Jetta. Let go of the clutch pedal theres a decent squeak to be heard. Depress the clutch and that squeak disapears. I was wondering if that has anything to do with the throwout bearing.
Release bearing is being overtraveled causing it to make contact at all times which can be heard when at idle or driving at different RPMs really bad for the unit and bearing itself if not addressed as soon as possible. -Cub
Just got an action clutch stage 1 for my kseries and wen I put it in gear the car moves from a stop and it’s very hard to go in my slave is bled and brand new also my clutch master and it’s adjust and still not engaging all the way
Car making squealing noise like pig when clutch is pressed. Sometimes stalls when put into 1st gear, without releasing clutch. Can anyone help me with this ? Just randomly started happening ….😢
Check your service manual to find out how to adjust the clutch pedal and release bearing travel, bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is not the same as adjusting the pedal but is also required and crucial.
If I blew my transmission bought a working used one and new clutch kit , put it all together and would go into gear and spin the wheels on the lift but once on the ground and put into gear it wouldn’t move , what could that be ?
Is it correct to say, if someone took out all the free play, they may have been trying to hide clutch wear? I have a replacement clutch on the way for a recently purchased used SI from Honda. I found it intermittently locks in or out of 1st gear. When trying to get it in when in traffic, I had one or two cringe worthy crunches. I found there to be no free play in the clutch adjustment. the car has only 20k on it. Seems like it suffered some abuse in what I suspect was short lease life. I guess the question is, under what circumstances would some one want to eliminate free play. what is it hiding?
My Toyota matrix XRS clutch pedal needs to be about 50% released before it starts to grab. It doesn't feel like it slips at all even under acceleration while leaving a light. Is the clutch possibly just worn from what you are saying or does it just need adjustment like described in the video?
@@mashedpotatoes5323 I my clutch finally showed up and I had it replaced. The original as I suspected was abused. Ironically, it was not the original clutch that was toast. So, I gather the freel play adjustment was the way to try to hide it. The replacement is great, it does catch earlier. Not as much as I thought it might. Anywho, lesson learned . Thx for the reply
It’s possible the clutch kit was replaced but not adjusted as required causing absolutely no free play and gear lock out noticeable majority of the time in 1st and reverse double check that adjustment and you should be good. -Cub
3 months ago I had a mechanic change our e46 clutch and flywheel. 3 days later i heard a banging and metal to metal sound and the clutch locked up, it sounded horrible like someone threw a hammer into the clutch and it hit with force and locked up. The mechanic fixed it free and said he put the bearing on wrong or backwards. 4 months have gone by and now when i push the clutch all the way down im getting a vibration and noise. After googling it people say its the bearing. Was this the mechanics fault? Is that part what he replaced? I dont know how to confront the mechanic because its been a couple thousand miles later but clearly he may have caused this. I never grinded the clutch and drove it carefully. Please help.
What do you mean groans when you're taking off in first releasing the clutch it's stuttering or what? did you get a solid mass conversion kit on your car that originally had a dual mass flywheel? Because if that's the case it's nothing bad you can just hear all the noises in the transmission because the dual mass dampens vibrations and noise and with the solid mass you get a lot more noise and vibration
@@kelpking4484i saw your comment and i have a bit of trouble understanding. I just installed a new clutch and lightweight flywheel on my car. When im in reverse with clutch pressed and i add some acceration i get this weird whining noise. Only happens when in reverse. Any clue?
Need to adjust clucth pedal to get the proper airgap sounds like release bearing is making contact when it shouldn't. Check your service manual for proper specs.
When I go to press the clutch in I feel a vibration in the pedal. The higher the RPM when I shift usually the more I feel it. Would that be a clutch issue or something else?
When you press the clutch, you can feel the engine through the pedal along with the pressure plate and flywheel. You need to confirm you don't have vibration coming from the engine. It could be worn out thrust bearings
Some transmissions have inspection covers if it doesn't take out the dust boot cover on the fork and try and see where the release bearing is at, if touching back it off a tad bit.
I just had a shop replace my oem clutch with a stage one i bought off clutch masters. After they got my old one out then they said my flywheel was also bad. Instead of waiting to get one shipped i let them buy the oem flywheel. Well not even a few months later and maybe 10k miles i smell burning smell like i did when the first clutch went out and its starting to still rev in nuetral. Any thoughts on what they did wrong? I have a 2013 dart 1.4 6 speed. If i have to replace it again im just going to do it myself and save the $800 in labor
@@actionclutch its wierd it shifts fine but when i put it in neutral usually while still moving the rpms will shift around 2 to 3 k for like 10 seconds sometimes longer before they drop to 1k like neutral gear usually is.
I don’t think y’all installing ya clutch’s properly. Me nd a friend just did a stage 1 on a Fidanza flywheel (191471). That same flywheel was paired with a stage 1 exedy that went bad with the throw out bearing. We recently just put everything brand new around the tranny while it was out OEM seals fork throw out bearing pilot bearing nd the pivot ball with the spring. I have his pedal currently adjusted in a way that he doesn’t feel comfortable driving the car but with everything new and aftermarket being different from OEM the 2 sensors on your pedal need to be adjusted in a way to accommodate for the new clutch. The top 1 is the pedal stopper. Second lower down is to limit your pedal dead zone. The push rod should be all the way in from there come out to half of what’s treaded and adjust from there. Over time you to adjust the push rod to have less thread on this 👈🏾 end. Hope y’all can make sense of this good luck nd save your pedals
Great video man, I just replaced a new clutch again, the mechanic claims that I was riding on the clutch etc. I knew I wasn’t because I’ve mentioned to him as I’m driving, I was hearing a scrubbing noise, so yes I believe that’s exactly what it was, the bearings while they claim it was me smh.
Glad it helped
How do you know if it needs adjustment when you cant see it if its installed?
Really good short.💯👍👌 Thanks for sharing.🤝
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoy the vid.
Been there, had mine adjusted backwards, fully tight. Smoked the clutch. Having issues with z bar and linkage now. Buying a new clutch starting over.
Last time split z bar and bent clutch fork. Lesson learned.
How would you know if it's too far? How far is too far and how close is too close?
I did a conversion myself and not sure sure if I should have put a spacer behind the push out bearing.
Can you do a video of the sound it makes while damaged
Good info brotha
Nice video. Thank you.
In south africa we call it a thrust bearing 💪
Awesome I tell you do good work peace out!
I have a 83 toyota corolla wagon AE71 rwd 1.6 that I changed over to a 5 speed manual.
I had to make the hydraulic line from the master to the slave .
I can not get the free travel I need on the pedal .
I can adjust it so it has about 1/4 free travel, then as soon as the engine gets to operating temperature it has no free travel .
First thing it the morning the pedal has the 1/4" free travel then after the engine warms up the travel is gone with O free travel.
I can adjust it after the engine gets to operating temperature and have 1/4" free travel.
Then when it cools down the pedal has way to much travel with the clutch catching right on the floor.
And information would be greatly appreciated ...
Possibly didn't bleed the line correctly and water or air expands due to heat?
You have air in the system somewhere. Hydraulic fluid doesn’t expand like that with mild temperature changes
Double check for air in the system also make sure the hydraulic line you made from the slave to the master has the proper fittings that could be another issue that would result in the same problem.
Video on clutch adjustment plz
Noted 🫡
I should've explored adjusting my "frankensteined" clutch setup on my bmw
Seriously. How would you adjust the slave?
@@Mustard-Bargain well, just a quick theory, was maybe modify the body of the slave (skimming down the ears, so the plunger fits deeper into the bell housing/clutch fork). Dunno if it's been done before, or not, or whether it can even be done, lol. My mind was just wandering...
Can the car clutch works for a power press machine or not 🙏
Shifting into 2nd and reverse gives me the gear grind. What's causing it ?
this is true . i had someone pushing down on me too . they are also missing fingers
xD
Oh so that’s the pits it in neutral shift fork-arino is it? No heckin’ way!
how can i find out the adjustment specs for my car?
I’m looking to upgrade my clutch and throw out bearing on my 325xi 2004 any tips or recommendations on better performance brands where I wont find myself causing more issues by putting the throw out bearing on too tight or loose.
What could cause a pressure plate to stop returning back to normal position after only 60k miles and only after we removed it? Comparing it to a brand new one, the plate doesn't return up as high.
2009 corvette manual, new mcleod clutch new slave cylinder, new torque tube. get rattling noise w/clutch engaged, no noise clutch disengaged. if i remove the slave cylinder, no noise. what can i do to stop this noise?
I just had my clutch, pressure plate and flywheel replaced on my Honda. All the gears are entering fine, but when releasing the clutch pedal nothing happens. The axles are all the way in for both wheels so I'm wondering if the issue would be because of the release bearing adjustment. Any ideas?
I had to replace my manual transmission on my 23 wrx (not paying 12k).
Found a 22 trans on marketplace and installed it on my car.
I go to start it up and none of the gears are open, almost as if clutch is engaged. When the car is off, it will go into all gears but 5. Clutch was thought to be good so wasnt replaced.
What would the resolution in my instance be?
I have a mk7 gti with stage 2 clutch and it chatters at in neutral
@actionclutch Any advice or help much appreciated I have a 2013 dodge dart 1.4 and have herd installing a clutch delay valve delete kit helps keep the slave cylinder and clutch alive. Any thoughts on this since my slave cylinder is inside the transmission and cost me $1000 to replace.
I have 1 that is not clutching enough. Chevy 1500 nv3550 have bled it many times
I have vauxhall insignia 1.8 petrol, 6 gears. I changed the gearbox, the flywheel and the clutch... some times I hear noise when driving it. When I press the clutch down the noise stops. The moment I release my legs from the clutch the noise comes back.. I don't know what the problem is.. can you please help me out
The same happens to me. I have a 1998 hilux
Everyone tells me my throw out bearing bad cuz there’s a grinding noise. That means it’s hitting the clutch constantly ??
I have cluncking when my pedal is up! G35 mechanic did new clutch replaced everything new I’m so upset
buddy had the same problem with his g35 sedan. one day it happened out of the blue and we couldent figure out the problem. one day of just went back to normal
Maybe one of the parts you replaced was a dud, it happens.
I would check the pedal adjustment it's possible the release bearing is making contact with the pressure plate, if so adjust accordingly using specs from the service manual.
What could be the problem if its hard to engage second when changing down or from gear 3 down to 2
What other issues are you experiencing? Like is it only when you’re shift down to 2nd or all gears? Is it grinding into gear or popping out of gear?
Great video, informative and to the point!
I'm currently trying to diagnose a problem with my car since the clutch won't fully disengage and start to slip and spin the wheels if I put it in neutral and let out the clutch pedal. You hear the whirring vibrating sound from within the car and it's really notiecable, even more so outside. A mechanic changed the clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing, the slave cylinder and the clutch hose without any improvement. Also machined the flywheel.
Any chance it has to do with the adjustment or is it more likely to be a pilot bearing or something?
Yes sounds like an adjustment issue where the throw out bearing still touching the pressure plate that causing the clutch to still trying to engage with out pressing down on the clutch pedal.
I have an e46. Clutch is slipping bad after replacing. Everything brand new. Just replaced slave as well. Theres no adjustment for clutch under the dash. The clutch has 0 freeplay and engages at very top of travel. Any tips?
Best bet is to just give us a call to discuss so we can understand everything you are truly dealing with .
Quick question: I bought my first manual car BRZ and when I’m in first or second gear at around 1-2k RPMs it jerks, as if there’s friction in a part of a full rotation that causes it to jerk like if I’m applying brake and then gas, brake and then gas, repeatedly. My foot is not on the clutch and I’m just applying a steady pressure on the gas. I know that it jerks if it’s in low RPM or if I don’t clutch correctly. But it isn’t the same type of jerking and I don’t think it should be this way. Maybe my clutch is worn off or something else is wrong. If you guys or girls have any suggestions please let me know. Thank you.
Hello doesn’t sound like a clutch issue it could be other issues as like worn mounts, bushing or even tires with uneven wear. I would suggest to get inspected by mechanic.
What is the price of bearing?
I bought a 2001 gt bullitt mustang. Very well taken car of but seems to have a hard clutch pedal and grabs as soon as it comes off floor. Seems okay but should I have to push to the floor to shift. Short legs and haven't driven a clutch for years. Ty
How much Torque does the Stang have and what clutch is in it?
Can I replace a clutch that cane with a hydraulic throw out bearing with a cable cluch system.
I would check your vehicle forums
I just wanna be sure, if your where driving a manual car and when you go to give it gas on gear 1 it Rev high, when you are in high gear like 4 and give it gas it Rev high for a bit before going, the speed does climb but slow not to slowly, heard it's clutch slip but just want to be sure before dropping 2.5k on a new clutch
You have slippery clutch, mine was doing the same, got it fixed yesterday,
Sounds like your clutch disc is gone and struggling to grip. $2.5k for a clutch is why I learned to do my own work or figure it out as I go. My whole clutch kit was $90, if I had taken it to a shop it been easy $1000.
@@jamessettles6485 all is good now, had a friend to help me for a case of beer and good meat as a payment, just broke in the clutch 4 weeks ago, runs way smoother then before
The clutch could be on it's way out if it hasn't already, have a trained technician diagnose it.
Nice video. One question. I thought neutral was a gear in the gearbox where power doesn’t go out through the output shaft. A disengaged clutch means no power to the input shaft?
Manual cars can have up to 6 gears even 7. That being said neutral is not a gear.
My car making a squeaky sound so I guess it's rubbing when running plus I couldn't go into gear when running .
if its a stickshift and you really need to get somewhere you can start it in gear then float gears to your destination, not very stustainable and basically impossible in traffic though
Double check that adjustment is done/ done correctly sounds like it is being overtraveled and this will cause gear lockout and prematurely wear out the clutch unit. -Cub
Could this be why my clutch enganges like 10% before its neutral position. Makes it very hard to start in 1st
Yes
Went threw 2 throw out bearings for a 15 si
Gotta that check that adjustment and make sure the bearing isn't making contact when not needed.
Hey do you guys make a clutch kit for the vw gti 2010?
Message sales@actionclutch.com
I have Toyota conquest 1.3 ,4 speed and 4th gear is making grinding sound
Check your service manual if there is an adjustment for the clutch pedal freeplay and adjust to spec. Best
I have an 07 f-150 xl the clutch pedal feels okay it isn't sticking but I can't get the car to actually give power to the gears I can shift when stopped with no clutch pressed help
I would take it to a trained shop and have it inspected if you haven't already.
I got a Honda prelude doing the same thing
Check the adjustment of the clutch pedal should have a 1/4in freeplay to provide a proper air gap.
Did you paint that pressure plate or did it come painted like that already?
My Valeo single mass fly wheel kit was rusted out of the box. I dont want it to rust so easily.
Its a special anodized coating we use
i just had 2006 mazda 3 give out on me, the clutch is completely gone, any advice before i tackle this project?
I just did an ACT clutch install on my 09 Mazdaspeed 3 I’m basically rebuilding …it’s not too terrible I did it in my garage with no lift and I’m not a professional mechanic just a home mechanic my main advice would be to make sure you organize and or draw diagrams to know where every bolt goes back(took me a lot of research from rushing disassembly) and it will make it 100x easier..other than that just look up a good guide on TH-cam for a Mazda 3 clutch change with the brand of clutch you have and follow it step by step and make sure not to skip out the last thing you want to do is have to pull it all back apart when done so its usually very recommended to replace the slave cylinder and the clutch release fork as well the same time your are replacing the clutch..hope that helps some!
Solid advice
What should i use for my b series iron man clutch. Been having issues man and cant seem to fix it at all
Let me know what your issues are shoot me an email at Cub@actionclutch.com 😎
Do you guys have a proven solution clutch kit for the 9thgen SI with an updated TOB that doesn't squeal like a pig like the OEM one?
Following
Fellow 9th gen here pretty sure somethings fucked, car feels like it's lurching in neutral from vibrations, additionally it sounds like a diesel pickup now, not sure if I fucked up my whole tranny or not. Car still drives okay, but clutch sometimes feels like it's not engaging not sure if it's a shifter issue or what's going on with it but shit not looking forward to shelling out $2k for a rebuild or new tranny
@@paraxicgaming5743 the transmission sounds like a Diesel? Or the engine?
@@jrkustomz5538 not sure which outside the car but inside I can feel the vibration in the floor so gotta be trans
@@paraxicgaming5743 RMM?
So must I buy new clutch kit?
Hello are you experiencing any clutch issues if so what issues are you experiencing?
If the forks are too close in like a tooth from the disk plate is that bad
Can you send pictures to general@actionclutch.com to see what exactly you are looking at? Thanks!
I have a02 Santa Fe and the pressure plate doesn't hold clutch plate tight
Is it a new disc and was the old flywheel used?
If the diaphragm spring too close the the clutch disk is that bad? Like a tooth
Hey brotha can you email pictures to our tech department. You can reach them here: sales@actionclutch.com
Just had a shop put in new clutch kit in my 2011 jetta 2.5l .. and been just 3 weeks.. Valero brand with(Single mass-fly wheel)..then they had to order slave cylinder too..(also tire ballance/rotations)..it feels cheap!.. for starters the bite point feels wierd & real low, clutch pedal feels light weak. When i accelerate i hear chattering(light chain chinging noises).. also when car is sitting still in neutral (been hearing light tapping clinking noises) but push in clutch goes away!> Throw out bearing??.. also last week i was driving & my rear right wheel drum brake started screeching outa nowhere, then minutes later front left wheel did the same.. then the front left started scraping & then sounded like whole caliper broke lose>clumps rattlessquealing then stopped.. & would make those noises off & on! So I went home noticed my rear right screeching wheel/Rim(w-drum) was full coated of black dust but all other rims where clean..I jacked car up removed front left tire noticed 2 lug nuts Lose!.. i get to caliper and noticed sliding pins were sticky , sticking alot in 1,( pads rotors looked okay. So i cleanedup caliper/rotor/&sliding pins!.. i greased those put it all together.. now I had brake fluid cap off & seen that it was way past full to brim.. as i pushed brake in few times some flowed out!.. Now whats wierd is the mechanic told me I NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES*.. I did ask why? There was no problems before at all+ he said something like it was already low on brake fluid & brake pedal is loose!.. it was not it was the clutch pedal that was loose. This was the owner whom i am talking about.. but his technician worked on my car, who i noticed looked really young & high. Bad vibes.. I left a message on his shop phone today!.. I'm just pist 1700$ Total & i feel like something is wrong in alot of places!.. ALOT of wierd noises coming from clutch as i stated!.. motor is making clicks>rocking bqck & forth hard since left shop(mounts*?) .. Brake isses!(rear drum still screeching).((Brake fluid overfill!?))> is that an issue & Should i have to bleed this? Also sounds like exhaust is open somewhere..
Anyways I have 154kmiles & have few other issues engine light on.. my vaccum pump is leaking bad>👉 i want the spullen pump delete setup it seals up that stupid thing & then has inverted/spliced hose/tube that ends up going to brake vaccum port. Its 130$.. & last forever cheaper then a new 240$+ pump which he said i needed that for resealing wont work.
My flex pipe needs to be replaced for the 3rd time since 2017!..
I'M just not happy anymore with this car! Myengine 5cyl is a great engine.. & i had alot of work done to it in 2018. 4k$ performance upgrades
-Awe Track Exhaust System -Usp-dwnpipe
-AFE cold air intake conversion
-UM flash-Tune, 5>R8-ignition coil packs, 5>NGk TSI irid/platnm plugs. All done @New German Performance
-Southbend Stg2 Daily drvr endurance
Complete clutch kit w-lightweight fly wheel. 🤯lasted like 30kmiles!
And this is where i am now😢 clutch was done for i did ride the heck out of it!.. but still should of lasted longer.. this new Valero clutch w- Single mass flywheel feels cheap!! Noisey!! & like its ready to fall apart!..the mechanic told me Valero was best for my $!.. that the southbend was not good clutch for my car stated that the disc material wear out fast better off getting closer to oem with my car. 🤔
Also he kept my Light weight Flywheel(Southbend) as I totally forgot to tell him, i wanted it!..
👉💥Anyways i know i wrote a book.. But if you could please give me any advice ??.. is that shop & mechanic held accountable or responsible to look aty car & fix those issues i stated that all started >after it left the shop. Its been 3weeks!
Thanks man.
@TruthExposed eww
It doesn't feel cheap it is cheap it's about 500 dollars cheaper than the dual mass and I prefer the solid flywheel so idk what you mean you get what you get obviously you can't expect it to be the exact same as stock when you literally converted it to a solid flywheel when the car was designed with a dual mass
@@tRuth-be-told-againor just learn how to drive if he just got it put in it needs to be broken in my clutch didn't feel the best till about 5000 miles
Could be that the clutch was good but installation was it from what i've read based on what you wrote.
What would cause it to squeal real loud and stall the second i put pressure on the clutch pedal? Like a metallic shriek I guess
Bad throw out bearing
The bearing is bearing super over traveled and the fingers on the pressure plate are making contact with the disc that’s why it stalls out immediately check the pedal adjustment and that will solve your issue- Cub
Do u guys use the provider pilot bearing and clutch release for b series? Or u get oem?
Yes all of our B-Series kits come with those as well as the alignment tool 😎 -Cub
I have a stage 3 on my rsx and my pedal has been adjusted properly as well but the clutch after breaking it in starter to make some loud rubbing noise when I release the clutch
I have the same issue, what did you do on it?
@@maminirinaezrarandriamanan7442 nothing yet man. Still haven’t figured it out might just end up replacing it again sadly. I do notice though after i launch it a couple times it goes away for a bit but ends up coming back :(
I have same issue on 07 987.1 cayman
With the clutch pushed in, it sounds fine. When clutch is out, it makes a rubbing noise (constant with the rpms I believe)
No clue what it is
At first when you installed the clutch kit the adjustment might have been done good enough to give enough gap where the bearing wouldn’t rub on the fingers of the pressure plate but as a clutch kit wears in the fingers naturally lift up which is why you are now hearing noise so I would just double check the adjustment and back out as required. Best -Cub
another issue it can cause is crankshaft axial bearings getting worn out.
Interesting
subaru wrx 2020 just had a act clutch kit installed . when I’m in first gear, I have to give it more gas than you should pull off. If I don’t, I get the stalling effect and I have the bird chirping noise for when I first start the vehicle.
I'm having the same issue on my 2013 FRS
ACT clutch, Verus Clutch fork and pivot, new OEM clutch slave and master cylinder. I disconnected the clutch pedal assembly from the master cylinder to rule out clutch pedal adjustment but no success. Not sure how to adjust the travel on the slave or master cylinder.
It’s a more aggressive clutch so it will grab harder which is probably why you are having to give it more gas. Did you install a lightened flywheel with that clutch by chance?
GUYS YOU WONT BELIEVE ME, SO DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH. I learned this year, the ecu is going to stall the car everytime with a lightweight clutch and flywheel, because it's accounting for a heavier setup. The only way you can fix this is by TUNING your car.
You need to check the clutch pedal adjustment it could be over traveled or under traveled will give you the same symptoms but based off the chirp sounds like it's over-traveled check out your service manual for proper specs.
Idk if you have any insight on this. I own a 2007 Impreza 2.5i 5 speed. Me belief is my clutch release bearing is either broken or too loose/tight but don’t know how to determine. It makes this odd squealish sound when idle and off the clutch. The sound goes away the moment I engage the most minimal pressure on the clutch. Don’t hear it much while I’m motion, clutch is slipping but I’m worried about wear on my plates or the bearing itself. Any insight appreciated
Hey brother sounds like the release bearing is being overtraveled you might want to check the adjustment if unsure how take it to the mechanic that installed it or check your service manual takes about 20mins or so to do 😎 -Cub
If the release bearing is too far will it make a noise like mine is?
How do you make that adjustment?
Adjust the push rod that comes off the back of the master cylinder to the clutch pedal.
Ik this a old vid but my clutch pedal feels very loose and when I start my car and press the clutch all the way in somtimes it still doesn’t want to go to first gear and if I go to reversed the gears grind even when the clutch is down
Have the same issue most likely your throw out bearing or your clutch assembly
Mine grinds neutral now because I went awol trying to get it to work I wouldn’t mess with it definitely get the clutch and throw out bearing replaced I’ll be doing it myself on my free time hope you get it to work !
Check your clutch hydraulic system for any leaks or air in the system this will cause a soft pedal and issues with grinding and difficulty getting into gears.-Cub
Own a 1991 Chevy S10 truck that when clutch is engaged there is a whirring sound. Is that the throw out bearing/clutch slave cylinder?
When you press the clutch it makes a noise? Put the car into neutral and try pushing the clutch up and down. See if the sound changes. Let me know
Will do that first thing in the am. Appreciate the input. Will keep you informed.👌🏽
I would check if there is an adjustment via the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder and possibly back off the release bearing it could be over traveling.
U u guys have a location here in LA .and do they make them for slingshot
Hey Brotha! Yes our HQ is in East LA in fact. Unfortunately we don’t have slingshot clutches at the moment. But maybe it’s something we should look into 🤔
How do you adjust it?
Majority of the vehicles the adjustment is done via a pushrod that connects the clutch pedal to the clutch master cylinder there’s a jamnut on it and once you break it loose you turn the rod clockwise or counterclockwise this will bring the release bearing closer or further from the pressure plate depending on the vehicle. Some adjustments are different and some cars do not have one always check your service manual if unsure. -Cub
Ok my clutch has been working just fine for over a year and a half but for some reason it just started making a grinding noise when fully pressed shifting into every gear like the starter is trying to engage or something and itll also almost die why is this happening?
me too did you ever find out the problem?
@@esai542 no it just stopped happening but one person i asked whos a mechanic said that it sounds like the throw out bearing but also the starter could be getting stuck to the flywheel
@@StrengthNoBounds oh damn okay yea my mechanic said it’s most likely throw out bearing, iv had my stage 3 clutch for about 2-3k miles, i did a 1k mile break in period and then got a new transmission installed then after the transmission got installed it almost instantly started making that grinding noise when i was in the break in period for my new transmission, i feel like it’s the mechanic that installed my transmission did a improper installation
@@esai542 yeah it sounds like the mechanic messed up or something, but dang i wish i had enough money to get myself a new transmission ive got a lot of metal shavings in mine and literally have to have a magnet attached to the bolt where you fill your transmission fluid on the side of the transmission. Ive got a 1996 honda civic hx 234k miles 🥲
Hey brother over time the fingers on the pressure plate lift up which is normal as a clutch kit wears I would check the clutch pedal adjustment to make sure the bearing isn't being overtraveled and you'll be good.
Car is making a squeaky sound until I press on clutch and clutch has gotten softer. What’s going on
Throw out bearing more than likely
Throwout bearing is making unnecessary contact could be the adjustment but since your pedal is getting softer you may be experiencing a hydraulic issue which will also contribute to other issues if not addressed soon.
I have the same exact action twin disc on my k24/k20 turbo and mines super squeaky loud. Is that normal?
I would say no... Tbh my water pump was squeaky before it flew off and broke my serpentine belt... So if its on the inside it could be in need of replacing, btw what do you think is a good clutch/break set up for k24
Check the pedal adjustment release bearing sounds over traveled also make sure to run a pedal stop and adjust that accordingly to prevent over-traveling the bearing and making contact with the discs. If you hear chatter that is normal it's just the floaters engaging and disengaging.
I had a new transmittion thrown into my Jetta. Let go of the clutch pedal theres a decent squeak to be heard. Depress the clutch and that squeak disapears. I was wondering if that has anything to do with the throwout bearing.
throw out bearing is a knock i’m pretty sure
Just did the same, 2k miles ago. It was the throw out bearing. Now I'm guna have to pay for the same job
Release bearing is being overtraveled causing it to make contact at all times which can be heard when at idle or driving at different RPMs really bad for the unit and bearing itself if not addressed as soon as possible. -Cub
Just got an action clutch stage 1 for my kseries and wen I put it in gear the car moves from a stop and it’s very hard to go in my slave is bled and brand new also my clutch master and it’s adjust and still not engaging all the way
Did you get this fixed?
I wish people always posted their fixes. My k20z3 has a new clutch and i havent been able to get it moving for 3 weeks now.
Recheck the adjustment it's most likely still off and make sure you have 1/4in clutch pedal free play.
Would this make a constant whining noise?
Yes it would and then go away at times when clutch pedal is pressed in.
Car making squealing noise like pig when clutch is pressed. Sometimes stalls when put into 1st gear, without releasing clutch. Can anyone help me with this ? Just randomly started happening ….😢
New clutch. Don't drive too much, might mess up your gearbox
Need to back the release bearing off it's being over-traveled check your service manual on how to do so.
How do you adjust that for a 2010 Mazda speed 3
Many cars have no adjustment. They have "self" adjusting clutchs
Would the adjustment be the bleeding of the clutch pedal it's self
Check your service manual to find out how to adjust the clutch pedal and release bearing travel, bleeding the clutch hydraulic system is not the same as adjusting the pedal but is also required and crucial.
If I blew my transmission bought a working used one and new clutch kit , put it all together and would go into gear and spin the wheels on the lift but once on the ground and put into gear it wouldn’t move , what could that be ?
🤨
Did you get this fixed ?
Did you install the clutch backwards? Is the clutch actually fully engaged? When you put it into gear, does it stall if the car isn't moving?
That has to do with not having the correct pedal adjustment check your service manual for proper specs and you should be solid.
Is it correct to say, if someone took out all the free play, they may have been trying to hide clutch wear? I have a replacement clutch on the way for a recently purchased used SI from Honda. I found it intermittently locks in or out of 1st gear. When trying to get it in when in traffic, I had one or two cringe worthy crunches. I found there to be no free play in the clutch adjustment. the car has only 20k on it. Seems like it suffered some abuse in what I suspect was short lease life.
I guess the question is, under what circumstances would some one want to eliminate free play. what is it hiding?
My Toyota matrix XRS clutch pedal needs to be about 50% released before it starts to grab. It doesn't feel like it slips at all even under acceleration while leaving a light. Is the clutch possibly just worn from what you are saying or does it just need adjustment like described in the video?
@@mashedpotatoes5323 I my clutch finally showed up and I had it replaced. The original as I suspected was abused. Ironically, it was not the original clutch that was toast. So, I gather the freel play adjustment was the way to try to hide it. The replacement is great, it does catch earlier. Not as much as I thought it might. Anywho, lesson learned . Thx for the reply
It’s possible the clutch kit was replaced but not adjusted as required causing absolutely no free play and gear lock out noticeable majority of the time in 1st and reverse double check that adjustment and you should be good. -Cub
3 months ago I had a mechanic change our e46 clutch and flywheel. 3 days later i heard a banging and metal to metal sound and the clutch locked up, it sounded horrible like someone threw a hammer into the clutch and it hit with force and locked up. The mechanic fixed it free and said he put the bearing on wrong or backwards. 4 months have gone by and now when i push the clutch all the way down im getting a vibration and noise. After googling it people say its the bearing. Was this the mechanics fault? Is that part what he replaced? I dont know how to confront the mechanic because its been a couple thousand miles later but clearly he may have caused this. I never grinded the clutch and drove it carefully. Please help.
It's totally your mechanics fault, he admitted to it, fixed it, and now you're having the same issue because of what he did wrong to begin with.
I bought a new clutch now my hyundai groans . Amy thoughts?
What do you mean groans when you're taking off in first releasing the clutch it's stuttering or what? did you get a solid mass conversion kit on your car that originally had a dual mass flywheel? Because if that's the case it's nothing bad you can just hear all the noises in the transmission because the dual mass dampens vibrations and noise and with the solid mass you get a lot more noise and vibration
Ight so if you wanna fix your problem first step is to sell your car. Second, buy a Honda
@@kelpking4484i saw your comment and i have a bit of trouble understanding. I just installed a new clutch and lightweight flywheel on my car. When im in reverse with clutch pressed and i add some acceration i get this weird whining noise. Only happens when in reverse. Any clue?
@@Vectursnew clutch?
Need to adjust clucth pedal to get the proper airgap sounds like release bearing is making contact when it shouldn't. Check your service manual for proper specs.
When I go to press the clutch in I feel a vibration in the pedal. The higher the RPM when I shift usually the more I feel it. Would that be a clutch issue or something else?
same
When you press the clutch, you can feel the engine through the pedal along with the pressure plate and flywheel. You need to confirm you don't have vibration coming from the engine. It could be worn out thrust bearings
Hit up Cub at general@actionclutch.com and he'll help you out.
Umm..
...
As a biker of two years I can confirm that this clutch doesn't go in a bike.
You got that right
I just installed a transmission yesterday and now this vid pops up...
@actionstop is there way to check if the bearing is too close while the transmission is on ???
Is there a way to check if the bearing is too close while the transmission is on?? @actionstop
Some transmissions have inspection covers if it doesn't take out the dust boot cover on the fork and try and see where the release bearing is at, if touching back it off a tad bit.
Or just buy Exedy action clutch breaks
That's not totally true at all. Exedy makes a great product too.
I just had a shop replace my oem clutch with a stage one i bought off clutch masters. After they got my old one out then they said my flywheel was also bad. Instead of waiting to get one shipped i let them buy the oem flywheel. Well not even a few months later and maybe 10k miles i smell burning smell like i did when the first clutch went out and its starting to still rev in nuetral. Any thoughts on what they did wrong? I have a 2013 dart 1.4 6 speed. If i have to replace it again im just going to do it myself and save the $800 in labor
Is the clutch grabbing low, middle, or high?
@@actionclutch its wierd it shifts fine but when i put it in neutral usually while still moving the rpms will shift around 2 to 3 k for like 10 seconds sometimes longer before they drop to 1k like neutral gear usually is.
@@actionclutch and when the clutch is out you can hear a rattling sound until you press the clutch in.
So it’s bad to put in neutral to? Jeez
If you are racing yes :) -Cub
Pushing the clutch pedal in DOES NOT put the transmission in neutral, do not say that.
Pushing in the clutch pedal disengages connection between the engine and transmission x)
@@actionclutch which is not the same as “neutral.” Don’t say that.
I don’t think y’all installing ya clutch’s properly. Me nd a friend just did a stage 1 on a Fidanza flywheel (191471). That same flywheel was paired with a stage 1 exedy that went bad with the throw out bearing. We recently just put everything brand new around the tranny while it was out OEM seals fork throw out bearing pilot bearing nd the pivot ball with the spring. I have his pedal currently adjusted in a way that he doesn’t feel comfortable driving the car but with everything new and aftermarket being different from OEM the 2 sensors on your pedal need to be adjusted in a way to accommodate for the new clutch. The top 1 is the pedal stopper. Second lower down is to limit your pedal dead zone. The push rod should be all the way in from there come out to half of what’s treaded and adjust from there. Over time you to adjust the push rod to have less thread on this 👈🏾 end. Hope y’all can make sense of this good luck nd save your pedals
Sounds like you guys did a great job adjusting it properly.
Very helpful video. NOT
Sorry for that, what's missing?
@@actionclutch it didn't explain anything
Action clutch = 🗑 🚮
:/
I replaced the clucth on my 89 ford f150 and now it's slipping don't know what to do
Could be a lot of different things. The quality of clutch you bought, did you smoke the clutch and now it's slipping? Etc.