REBUILDING A YAMAHA YZF1000R THUNDERACE | PT 14
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024
- The #yamaha #thunderace rebuild continues to throw curve balls...In this upload we discover what could potentially be causing me engine troubles. Then as we rebuild the engine to get it ready to fit back into the frame, I come across once again more problems!! This Yamaha Thunderace project bike seems to be never ending!
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I left your channel as it was a painful watch, 40 yrs on the spanner’s tells me it was going to end in disaster which it did…several times, I’ve enough negatively going on in my boring life already . Good luck though and hope you get her singing.
Getting there, just a pointer…when you re-cut all 20 valves the valve clearance will be less and will need redoing 100%.
Thanks for the tip - yes did go around all 20 valves with a feeler gauge and double check. They were all within tolerance
I was Senior Product Engineer for one of the 3 major European gasket manufacturers before I retired - and my view is that although replacing the CHG (cylinder head gasket) again guarantees 100% safety, in your case it probably wasn't needed as it hadn't been through a heat cycle. Old fibre CHGs definitely crush once (they rely on the crush to densify the fibre material, and embed the bore eyelets into the fibre), but an MLS (multi layer steel) CHG has embossments to focus the clamp load to where it is required. As long as you have a decent quality CHG where the functional (embossed) layers are made of spring steel (rather than some Chinese gaskets with mild steel functional layers!), they should not lose their 'set' on one clamping and unclamping. The heat cycle does affect the coating (probably FPM) and so if the gasket has been taken to full operating temperature, microsealing could be compromised by unclamping and reclamping.
But keep it up - I truly admire your tenacity!!!!
Are your torque wrenches calibrated? Should come with a certificate if so.. looks a huge wrench for 10nm... You will get there buddy 👍
It is pretty chunky! But max it goes to is roughly 23nm from memory and is a 1/4 inch drive. Purchased new from screwfix. Thanks matey!! One day!!
@BikesofRye OK should be OK then 👍
A tip for the future. If the head is coming off for this sort of work and all the original parts are going back on ( not the gasket obviously ) . Set the engine to tdc on one with everything lined up and mark the cam sprockets and chain with a paint pen. Provided the crank is in the same position for re assembly its a lot easier to get the cam timing right first time.
i use a bicycle torque wrench for M6 bolts into aluminium. they only go up to 15nm. much safer
I am really enjoying watching your build and glad you are getting so much help from experienced guys. I can't help but please use this money for your next sausage and bacon sarnie on me, maybe it helps fuel you to the finish line.
That is such a generous gift!! Thank you my friend that means a lot
Might be worth checking the calibration of the torque wrench.
Think we you were turning the engine over using the front sprocket. You appeared to be turning the sprocket clockwise. If so this will be turning the crank the "wrong" way, pulling the cam chain against the cam chain tensioner,. This can cause problems and might be why the timing was out.
From memory, recommended way to turn the crank on these. Take the cap off the end of the crank. Screw in a bolt with a nut on it, tighten the nut against the crank to lock the bolt. Then you can use a spanner on the bolt to rotate the crank.
Also, grinding the valves in might well have tightened up the valve clearances. Probably worth checking the clearances again. Also provides a double check against any valves / buckets / shims being mixed up.
The way you test if your valves are seated correctly. You either put fluid on the face of the valve and use compressed air to blow through the intake track or the exhaust track. If the fluid bubbles you’re not sealed correctly. Or you pour fluid down the intake track or the exhaust track if it leaks through then you have leak. There’s another way too but that involves more tools that usually machine shops have. But simply pouring fluid on the face of the valve and seeing if it leaks through is a flawed way of testing. I’m enjoying your content it’s pretty hilarious 😆
You can save yourself some effort and redo the compression test on your work bench. You only need to put power to the starter motor. 👍
For a complete novice dude you’re smashing it! But please don’t be afraid of having longer videos I think 20-30 mins is ideal! So stop feeling like you have to cut them down so short!
Hate to say this, but as you have ground the valves in, you need to check the valve clearances again. Grinding them in you've removed material from the valve seat so the stem will be higher an close the valve clearances. But I love the project.
Can't wait for someone to spend FIVE HOURS critiquing your efforts at the weekend rather than doing something himself......
Well done on carrying on with it
Five hours slandering, defaming, and throwing out accusations while talking to his subscribers like minions. Not sure about the critiquing bit.
Why dont you address your perceived issues with that "guy?" Ryan.
Make a video, and it might go viral and you may achieve the insta famous that you so desire.
@@josos8711 sorry son, we don't behave like bitter, disrespectful losers on this channel. Do something better with your day.
As much as I enjoy your videos and I do admire you for having a go, you have proven beyond any shadow of a doubt that unless you really know what your doing then leave well alone or get somebody who really knows what there doing to help you, a good engine builder is a true artist. And if cam cap bolts strip again, get the head helicoiled they are brilliant,, because I had the same thing happens to me on my z1000 rebuild. 👍
The good news is, the parts guy likes you.
😂😂😂😂😂
Dont use that adjustable spanner with taps please. Get a tap wrench to ensure even load and it's straight when turning into a hole
And you did say " please " .. 😊
you should have replaced the valve stem seals
Yes!!!
They were replaced when I previously rebuilt the top end so are still new
sorry I should have remembered. Regarding changing the piston rings, looking at the work you have put in so far I think for a non mechanic you have done extremely well. I would bet replacing the rings would not have been a big issue for you, don't cut yourself short and finish the bike, when you take the first ride you will find its been all worth it,
@@BikesofRye
We've all been there, and will be there again, some time in the future. Great video's and a real reflection of how most of us 'fumble' through our repairs and restoratios. Don't give up - He who perseveres, never stops learning!
I literally cheered when you came back with “good news” after torquing the bolts down 😂 keep up the good work dude you’re killing it!
As you have lapped the valves (twice) your valve clearances will be out and need reshiming
I have double checked them and they are all good 👍🏼
Don’t lose faith, mate. It’s great watching you overcome everything the bike throws at you. The satisfaction you’ll experience when you finally get it on the road will be worth it! 💪
Ah mate that absolutely sucks, I think if you are gonna do vital internal engine torque specs you need to spend top dollar on a torque wrench other wise it might not be accurate
Also it's absolutely vital to get an air compressor to blow out bolt holes to clear anything that might have gone into the holes
to all the negative comments about the builder. No one learns by getting things right the first time.
I am a toolroom machinist by trade and not an expert on motorcycle's. That did not stop me from building a Harris framed GPZ. I had a big bore block installed and assembled the whole engine. I also messed up the valve timing first go and bent a valve when turning the engine by hand. It did not stop me from carrying on. I ended up with one monster bike. I also converted a 1973 Kawasaki H2 triple to case reed induction. I was told by a well know Kawasaki expert it would never work. It ended up going from the standard 72bhp to 130 rear wheel HP and is now a very sort after motorcycle. Never let anybody stop you having a go.
Keep going brother! You’re killing it, you’re an inspiration to me to give things like this a go.
Don’t give up on Thunder Race, make it more worth while and rewarding when you finish. All an adventure and learning curve, will all have to start somewhere. Don’t give up, your doing a good job 👊🏽👊🏽👊🏽
Mate,..if it makes you feel any better, I’ve just cooked the head gasket on my ZX9R, so I’ve also got to pull the engine, strip down, check mating faces and check the valve shims while I’m there. I’m not looking forward to it, as something ALWAYS goes wrong regarding seized or stripped bolts, but watching you persevere makes me feel that spiritually, we’re all connected when we’re cursing in our separate sheds and garages. We all feel the pain and celebrate the win! Keep on keeping on, brother. We’re all behind you…. And your content is really professional now.
Fair play to you mate. Ive been following your progress since the begining. Patience of a saint
Keep going! Your videos and honesty are top quality!
I feel your pain. A Yamaha FJ1100 was my project a few years ago. Valve's and timing and broken bolts. I feel your pain. Keep going. The feeling at the end of the build, that you have completed is awesome
Don't give up mate.... Your doing so well and learning so much along the way, stick with it and it will be so worth it in the end.... Bloody good job fella
You can't have the highs without the lows, keep cracking on fella. 👍
The joys of working on old bikes, have a 1994 fireblade, I do try to get OEM parts as they just fit better.
Ray, welcome. I also have a Yamaha Thunderrace and am also in the process of restoring it. Well, we have a small problem in that there are no spare parts in Kazakhstan. Well, why don’t I despair and say that I will do it. I also really liked your idea of painting the frame, and I will repeat the same thing.
Hi Ryan. Didn't see you checking the valve clearances after lapping in the valves.
Thunder ace was my first bike I’d owned new from the showroom so for nostalgic reasons I’d love to have another but thanks to your pain I’ll leave it in the past and keep it in my memories 😆
I've lost count of how many times I've threatened to set fire to my Thunderace, and I haven't had to open the engine up yet, good luck, they ride great, keep up the good work.
Good on yer. Tip - Grease your tap first - it helps to prevent aluminium from 'tearing' and picks up the swarf.
Another little bit, should avoid using extensions with a torque wrench as it can throw the numbers off. also should try and torque in one motion, my method is tighten up normally then final torque with the wrench
Wow outstanding job sir. I feel your pain. But your resilience will pay off. Great video.
Also torque wrenches need to be calibrated from time to time.
Personally I’ve found Teng to be pretty good but gentle all the way
Hi mate, Did you recheck the valve clearances? That could have caused your rough running and low compression if you had made a mistake the first time you put the engine back together, worth double checking 👍
This was a very good video. Usually, I don’t so apologies for giving advice. A small high-end torque wrench for low torque applications is a must, and at least a low-end compressor, but making sure to put good quality filters to keep the water out of whatever you’re blasting with air. I’m sure you’ve already considered all of the above. Just trying to help. OK keep up the great work, Rye👏
The (video) ‘tension’ 8, 9, 10 Nm! I was on the edge of my seat.
and i would have stopped at 9 nm!
It’s not all fun and games , you will find as you go on pitfalls just waiting to test you, experience and knowledge after a few years will get you over the problems.
Valves probably didn't need grinding. Head gaskets are a one shot use only. Always run a tap down the threads when rebuilding engines .this will stop bolts breaking and screwing the ends off. Just some rebuild tips for you I bet there's nothing wrong with the piston rings.
Some camshaft cap bolts are also stretch bolts, just like the cylinder head bolts, and should really be replaced. Sometimes as with my ZX9r, only some are stretch bolts, this is why it is so important to do a lot of research, use the manufacturers workshop manual, and get advise wherever possible. I trained as a mechanic many years ago, but I still do this on jobs and vehicles I've never done before, and to some extent on jobs where I have done them before, best prepare and double check still.
Tbf also not doing them up in the correct sequence, and quarter turn at a time, puts a lot of pressure on some of the camshaft cap bolts, this is why even the camshaft caps can break, and that also means new head as they can not come from another engine due to the way they are made.
I was looking forward to this episode and it hasn't dissappointed! Well done for persevering; it truly is a testament to your character. By the time you've finished with this build, 'you will be a professional mate' 😆
I love your uploads rye. It's amazing what you take on as a newbie. Good on you!
Loving the content, the editing seems to be getting better too.
Glad you haven't lost heart mate , it's all a learning curve , and i look forward to the next one
Let's hope after all that hard work, the motorcycle gods are watching over you. Good luck 😎👍🏍
Hi you will need to check the valve clearance again as re lapping the valves will cause them to tighten up i have rebuilt a couple of these engines and correct valve clearance is vital for correct running ie idling etc they tend to run like a bag of spanners if not set up well
We're on this journey with you mate - keep going!
I had a YZF_1000, I enjoyed that bike. I am now on an 05 R1, outwardly the engine
looks similar. Maybe you can find a used 04,05,06, and make it fit ?
Amazing patience man ! You are nearly there. I can hear that engine purring away!
Good on yeh doing it yourself, I'm on with 3 yamaha bikes with 20 valve motors including a thunder ace slowly rebuilding them 👍
I am behind you every step of the way and willing you to succeed (As I am sure you will!) Keep up the amazing work mate, the content is absolutely Top Notch!
Future Mat Armstrong in bike world 👌👌👌
Well done top effort before you put the engine back into the bike test the compression? I agree you probably didn't need to replace the piston rings but could you see the cross hatching on them were they glazed? last thing you could helicoil if you had stripped the thread well done again top effort
Had the top end been vapourblasted? If it had, it really did need going over with a drill and tap as the media will build up in the holes
you only learn by your mistakes. you are doing great. you will get there becouse you haven't given up. 👍👍👍
hey man keep going man you are doing good im learning so much form you and looking forward to the end of it riding down the road
love your patience and dedication. if it fails, at least you have had a go. touch wood it all turns out well for you. keep the videos coming. and on to the next project
Keep going Ryan 👍
Really admire what you’re doing, just one piece of advice though, get yourself a tap wrench. It’s so important when tapping a hole that the tap is going in straight and square, something that can never be achieved using an adjustable wrench or even a normal wrench/spanner.
Great episode glad you got the bolt back in 👍👍👍
Oh Man that was tense. 8nm, then 9nm then 😲10nm! Nail biter, but glad it worked out. Stay the course, the Thnuderace is bags of fun. 😎
Now there's a man who needs a nice sunny holiday
Just a point did you check the valves are straight by putting them in a drill and spinning them
Enjoying your videos and wouldn’t mind them being longer, 30-40 minutes?
Don't quit, keep it going 💪
If you cut the valve seats or grind them in your going to need to reset the valve clearances
Don't worry about the things..every little things it's gonna be ok..
Well done mate you have stuck with it , many would of thrown the towel in . Top man.....
Is it possible to do a compression test with the engine out of the frame? Jigger up a battery and some leads!
@16.10 to @16.28 Hallelujah.
Tbf timing/ chain/tensioner can test ones patience.
Big improvement since you got your garage ❤
Brill content mate. Definitely entertaining & inspirational. Keep going the ends not too far away. Looking forward to your next project.
Carry on you are doing fine the only way to learn is to do it
Good vid as usual. You did remove those valve stem oil sills before you set about grinding those valves in again ? and you fitted new ones afterwards. looked like you left the old ones on. Id be concerned the amount of thread you pulled out head to , that really needs an insert doing, that bolt will probaly pull once it gets hot. Tricky buisness engine building with no formal training or help. Keep going you will get there.
Great vid Buddy . I would have did the rings tho when you had it out. Still . Hopefully when you reinstall the engine it will start with no issues . Fingers crossed for you . Keep the faith 🙂
I admire your perseverance well done
Good work☕️🏁
Maybe it's worth getting your torque wrench calibrated. Good luck with the build.
Appreciate the story every video for new viewers but can you add a timestamp to skip it for those of us watching every episode. Keep up the good work!
Great idea, will look into this
i feel your pain, but don't give up your doing great
Dead impressed with how open you are.....rather than a tap and dye i would suggest a helicoil?
Stay with it you’ll smile from ear to ear when fire up
With a big sense of achievement 👍
Loved the vid, you are doing a great job. It’s just not easy and that’s why garages charge so much.
This time I reckon you’ll win 👍
Would love to see a Q&A follow up video where you go through the comments, or maybe a livestream replay where all the “experts” can chip in real time 😅.
Great channel, subbed for the RS, loving the new direction.
Excellent work and definitely worth having a Helicoil kit in your workshop and learning how to use it. 👍❤️🇬🇧
Might you be able to tell me chain and sprocket specs I can't find any for sale listed as fitting the 97.
I'm feeling for you ... dont know whether to laugh or cry ... but I'm totally hooked and cant wait for the next episode ... my goodness, that bacon n sausage roll 👌 yum
Well done buddy can't wait to see her finished. You have done to much to not complete this thunderace now.
But you’ve learned so much, you’re a head specialist now Ryan ….that don’t sound rite 😂 working on engines can be an emotional rollercoaster 🎢
Great vid.
Can’t remember if the mileage of the bike was mentioned but generally piston rings shouldn’t needs changing. Took a mate’s low mileage 750m to be jetted and they said I should’ve changed the rings when the head was off?
Only pulled the head to replace snapped exhaust bolts (checked all the valves sealed) and as the bike ran sweet honestly though they were full of it
Timing it always gets me bud it's annoying well done for sticking with it
It’s all learning … it’s all learning … you be a thunderace expert now!
Imagine if you were still on the drive
Oh forget that
OK so I’ve been watching all 14 episodes so far and I’m treating this as a Bible because I recently just picked up a 1997 Yamaha thunder Ace 1000 myself. The previous owner said the motor was blown and I have yet to dive into it other than taking basics apart have not gotten into the engine yet how can I get in touch with you personally if possible to touch base with you for details in the future because honestly the videos and your help are amazing. I just need more. I hope this helps to understand what your videos do for others.