I have the venev scorpion series 80-1200 for my KME and I get a mirror finish after the 1200 . I heard that they scraped the 2000 cause of those issues you mentioned, but I’m new to them and I’ve been impressed. No more lapping films needed. Awesome video, I’m looking to get some stones for freehand and saw your channel.
I liked the look of the scratch pattern. They seem to work pretty well. They are definitely on the growing list of stones I want to try. I like the feel of diamond and ceramic edges.
Yea they get a super aggressive, keenness, you just can't get any other way. These have that to a point, but not quite the same. Pure diamond plates, are in a class, all to themselves. As for the scratch pattern, just eye ballin it, I think it looked really nice. Getting magnified, I couldn't tell if the inconsistency was normal. Seeing some comments here, it sounds like it isn't.
I’ve been accused of it. When i have spoken incorrectly i try to correct it. Some folk just don’t take kindly to misrepresentation, unintentional or not. 🤓🤷♂️
@@Jef to be fair to the guy, in the earlier videos he basically admits he does't have any experience or really know anything, and it's something he's "diving into." but then he goes on to make 1000 more videos where he's basically teaching others about knives and stones and never bothers to actually learn accurate info. So I would say yes, his videos are loaded with misleading information at best. It's all very promotional. I don't he cares, he's just trying to sell stuff and make money.
Yea i watched his videos when he first started. Think he had just a handful. I made a few comments about technique or stones, i cant recall, but his next video put out, claimed he was being attacked. 🤷♂️ I quit watching him after that.
This is something I can actually give you tips on. To clean your diamonds, just flush them with soupy water and scrub them with the coarse side of a kitchen sponge, that should get rid of the load up. If that doesn`t help you can also flush them out with WD40. About the abrasive thickness, that`s super thick for a diamond stone, most come with 1mm, some with even less, that looks like there`s more abrasive than my Eze-Lap plates are thick, probably over 2mm, that`ll last you easily 1000 sharpenings if not more. If I understand the Venev process right these do need lapping from time to time, preferably with silicon carbide powder on a flat surface (for example a mirror). I think the Naniwa Diamonds use a similiar bonding agent.
The Mr. Clean magic eraser does a good job of cleaning load up without removing much abrasive. I use them on my spyderco ultra fine and Shapton glass stones as well.
I usually use barkeepers friend or ajax on my ceramics. I haven't tried that with these yet, as this is only like my 2nd or 3rd time using em. I will look around today at wally world, and see if I can find one of those erasers. Thanks!
@@jovonntrujillo1143 Rust erasers are ok, but I don't like the eraser residue they leave behind. I do use regualr erasers to clean my ceramics occasionally, so that might actually work out well. Most times I just dab a little oil on em (ceramics), and wipe em clean. Not sure how these would hold up. It's pretty inert so I don't see why it would pose a problem.
@@Jef I use barkeepers friend myself on my .Venev Centaur stones, It works great, most will come off by just rubbing it with my finger. I then scrub a little with a stiff tooth brush and rinse.
Jef, great video. Question about touch ups. Using Venev diamond bonded stones, if I have a sharp knife, but it’s not razor sharp anymore. What progression on these Venev stones do you use?
Learning a lot on your channel. Been replaying your sharpening stroke over and over as I practice. What strop do you recommend in what kind of leather? Also, got a little lost on the stropping compound discussion, so what compounds/progression would you recommend. Many thanks?
As far as strops go, I prefer the Dlt XL leather strop. Just go to Dlt trading's webpage, and search for the double sided xl. In the comments, ask for the thinnest leather they can find, bc they started using thicker pieces. Which is a damn shame, but even those, are better than most you will find. When it comes to compounds, I suggest white, from StropBros.com . I checked their site recently, and did not see an option, to order single bars, unless you purchase a strop. Otherwise, you have to order a 4 pack, in all colors. I sent them a message, which never got a reply, inquiring if it was still an option, to order all white. So, that said, if you have to order all 4 compounds, the black is too coarse, the red is too fine (i see no benefit using it), but the white and green, are keepers. White of course, being my optimal choice, for all knives. Period. If you feel the need, you just must have diamond, or cbn, I suggest the 1µ diamond spray from Portland Knife House. TripleB handmade's web site sells it. Often out of stock, but if you watch his page for a week or two, it usually comes available. My biggest gripe with all these types of compounds, is price. They charge WAY TOO much, for sub par results. I get better edges, with $5 white compound, than I do, with $40 sprays. Take that for what it is worth. Your mileage may vary. Below are some links I tossed together recently for another viewer, on my technique. Perhaps you have seen them, but if not, I encourage you to check them out. 1 hr step by step process : th-cam.com/video/dDXT8zOn5FQ/w-d-xo.html shortened process: th-cam.com/video/eCa7kbzuvAc/w-d-xo.html holding consistency: th-cam.com/video/yc0mjAiVFtU/w-d-xo.html
@@Jef Checked out the DLT strops. I'm going to follow your suggestion on the white compound. On the strop, would you get one side rough, one side smooth, or both sides smooth?
I usually do smooth/rough. Even the rough side, is still pretty smooth. Id go that route and see what you really like. Can always order another after experimenting
Hey Jef, I’ve been following your channel for about a year now (since I’ve started freehand sharpening). I personally don’t think you’ve been spreading any sort of misinformation. It’s possible that came about with the Naniwa professional stones but I see that as simply another anecdotal data point that Naniwa’s formula has some issues. I personally have two of the japanese versions and the 800 cracked on me but after some sharpening and flattening sessions it seemed to heal itself. I haven’t used rust erasers so I can’t actually speak to whether they remove more material than a nagura but I’ve heard they’re more gentle. I just started my own channel and did a brief sharpening on my chosera 400 on an old chicago cutlery chef knife, out of a set, I’m restoring. However I just recieved a large cerax 320 and 1500, 3k, and 6k suehiro debado which I’ll be using for the restoration/review. They feel very promising so far but might not be up your alley being medium soft/medium. The steel on these old knives are insanely hard. They sure don’t make knife sets like that anymore. Anyway I love your channel and wanted to let you know you’ve been one of my biggest inspirations. Best regards, Seth
Thanks for dropping in and letting me know this. I'll be sure to check out your channel :D I love watching sharpening vids, and the more the better. I have a Sehiro Cerax chemical 320, along with the Cerax 700, 1k, and 6k. There are a few vids on my channel talking about em. They feel amazing to sharpen on, but just a tad too soft for my preference, and the polishes are hazy. Again something I don't care for. I just have enough Japanese steel to use their full potential, unfortunately.
@@seff2318 I'm not sure what the differences are. I do know the Suehiro Chem 320 is supposed to have 2 different binders in it. One side is supposed to be hard, and the other friable. I could never really tell much difference between them, until I dropped it. Took an enormous chunk out of the soft side. Other than that little tid bit, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Can you please do a video on putting metal polish on a strop? Mine is either to soggy or too flakey. I’m using mother’s mag if that makes any difference. Thank you and as always great video thanks for what you do for the community.
Sure. The stuff I use though, is pretty thick and gritty. I can order some more flitz and give that a go. It has a viscosity that is just a bit thicker than water, and may be a better example for Mother's Mag.
Mothers mag to me feels more like a white hair gel it’s pretty thick too but has very little grit. Whichever you think the best medium is works for me. I just appreciate you doing the video. I can’t figure it out. Personally it seems like it just wants to sit on the leather not absorb which means stropping is like a goopy mess. If I put it on cardboard it dries out but then is a chalky flaky nightmare. But dry at least seems to give ok but a powdery clean up.
Jeff I am new to your channel. I was watching Paddy doing a sharpening video using the Venev stones. He did 200+, then 780 finished with 1200. He was very pleased. Can you tell me where you got the base you used on the stones?? Thank you for the information. What would you recommend for someone looking to get into freehand sharpening ?? I have used Worksharp belt w/grinder and KME fixed systems. Obviously freehand is a different skill set but interested in learning.
The base is just called a "universal stone holder". They can be purchased at many places. Chef Knives to Go, Sharpening supplies, and Amazon all carry them. The cost is approx $28. Getting started is different for everyone. If you are dealing with super steels, like s90v, and maxamet, I would recommend Gritomatic Silicone carbide stones. 240, 1k, 2.5k. Then get yourself a strop with some compound. Cbn is ok, but honestly, I prefer plain ole white alox. If you are just sharpening standard steels, 1095, 154cm, s30v, 52100, then I would point you towards the Shapton Pro line. 320, 1k, and 5k. Then of course, a strop :) Check out my video on sharpening stones I recommend. I think the Venev stones here, even make an appearance. th-cam.com/video/fcprUHO4Zgs/w-d-xo.html
He usually recommends Shapton Kuromaku (320, 1K, 5K) or Gritomatic SiC for wear resistant harder steels. He likes Grit SiC stones better than Venev diamond. A nice 2 stone system would be King Deluxe 300 or Shapton Glass 500 and Shapton Kuromaku 2K. th-cam.com/video/fcprUHO4Zgs/w-d-xo.html
I have same problems with inconsistent and deep scratches with the venev stones as well on my M2 hapstone system...I end up having to run it longer on the 2000 for a longer amount of time with a little or almost no pressure ...But I do have to refresh the stones often, they love to load up fast..
Yea they remind me very much of ceramics, in the load up aspect. I didn't know if the inconsistency in scratches was just normal, or if that was a product of the Venev. I see random deep scracthes in some of my water stones too, but I just don't look at enough edges magnified, to really make a judgement on em. Cheers!
They are good stones and cut the harder steel easily..I use 1 part toothpaste and 3 parts crushed pumice in a paste form on just a piece of wet scrap leather to clean them in between lappings and it works great for me , saves on removing so much material..By the way love your vids man great content I can't hand sharpen worth a sh..t but I enjoy watching...
Toothpaste and pumice? Ha that’s a first. If it works though, by all means. I think I’ll try bar keep/ajax first. I don’t know where to wven purchase pumice 😂 Appreciate the kind words! Thank you 🙏
😂😂 I know it's seems a little silly but man it sure works for me .. Something in that toothpaste makes fall right out and that softer pumice is just enough to remove the buld up and not so much the diamonds...
I’ve seen them but haven’t thought about buying any. I may just to show em off to others who may be interested. Thing is i use my hapstone and epa so rarely they’d really be wasted on me
It's not that I don't like them, I just don't see any improvement over using plain white compound. Going through all the different levels of strops, I can get the same results on just one session of white. Maybe my stropping technique is flawed? I dunno. On top of not seeing a difference in the keenness, between white compound vs diamond, I don't see much difference in the polish. They both look pretty similar to me.
@@bp-hx9ts No, just plain ole Naniwa stones. I didn't realize you were in context of Naniwa Diamond. As for those stones, too expensive. I'll stick with Sic.
Jef Jewell found em for about a hundred on this site japan woodworker I would say there worth it for that price considering that they don’t really wear and polish to a high degree but yeah the sic stones I would say are better value
I have the venev scorpion series 80-1200 for my KME and I get a mirror finish after the 1200 . I heard that they scraped the 2000 cause of those issues you mentioned, but I’m new to them and I’ve been impressed. No more lapping films needed. Awesome video, I’m looking to get some stones for freehand and saw your channel.
My new set i get better results. I think the old set just had too much scatter.
I liked the look of the scratch pattern. They seem to work pretty well. They are definitely on the growing list of stones I want to try. I like the feel of diamond and ceramic edges.
Yea they get a super aggressive, keenness, you just can't get any other way. These have that to a point, but not quite the same. Pure diamond plates, are in a class, all to themselves. As for the scratch pattern, just eye ballin it, I think it looked really nice. Getting magnified, I couldn't tell if the inconsistency was normal. Seeing some comments here, it sounds like it isn't.
you don't give false information. your videos are great.
I’ve been accused of it. When i have spoken incorrectly i try to correct it. Some folk just don’t take kindly to misrepresentation, unintentional or not. 🤓🤷♂️
@@Jef I wonder what those guys would say about someone like Burrfection. I bet they like him.
I dont watch burrfection but i hear he has a rabid following. Has he made false claims? Is no one in the comment section calling him out?
@@Jef to be fair to the guy, in the earlier videos he basically admits he does't have any experience or really know anything, and it's something he's "diving into." but then he goes on to make 1000 more videos where he's basically teaching others about knives and stones and never bothers to actually learn accurate info. So I would say yes, his videos are loaded with misleading information at best. It's all very promotional. I don't he cares, he's just trying to sell stuff and make money.
Yea i watched his videos when he first started. Think he had just a handful. I made a few comments about technique or stones, i cant recall, but his next video put out, claimed he was being attacked. 🤷♂️
I quit watching him after that.
This is something I can actually give you tips on. To clean your diamonds, just flush them with soupy water and scrub them with the coarse side of a kitchen sponge, that should get rid of the load up. If that doesn`t help you can also flush them out with WD40. About the abrasive thickness, that`s super thick for a diamond stone, most come with 1mm, some with even less, that looks like there`s more abrasive than my Eze-Lap plates are thick, probably over 2mm, that`ll last you easily 1000 sharpenings if not more.
If I understand the Venev process right these do need lapping from time to time, preferably with silicon carbide powder on a flat surface (for example a mirror). I think the Naniwa Diamonds use a similiar bonding agent.
Flushing out with wd40 is very bad that causes that you can no longer use the stones with water in a proper way
The Mr. Clean magic eraser does a good job of cleaning load up without removing much abrasive. I use them on my spyderco ultra fine and Shapton glass stones as well.
I usually use barkeepers friend or ajax on my ceramics. I haven't tried that with these yet, as this is only like my 2nd or 3rd time using em. I will look around today at wally world, and see if I can find one of those erasers. Thanks!
Hey bud Walmart has a knock off brand that’s basically the same thing. I like the rust erasers the mr. clean ones wear out quick
@@jovonntrujillo1143 Rust erasers are ok, but I don't like the eraser residue they leave behind. I do use regualr erasers to clean my ceramics occasionally, so that might actually work out well. Most times I just dab a little oil on em (ceramics), and wipe em clean. Not sure how these would hold up. It's pretty inert so I don't see why it would pose a problem.
@@Jef I use barkeepers friend myself on my .Venev Centaur stones, It works great, most will come off by just rubbing it with my finger. I then scrub a little with a stiff tooth brush and rinse.
Jef, great video. Question about touch ups. Using Venev diamond bonded stones, if I have a sharp knife, but it’s not razor sharp anymore. What progression on these Venev stones do you use?
Depends really, on the edge. I'd prob start around the 800 mark. It is fine enough, not to remove a lot of steel, and coarse enough, to reset the apex
Jef Jewell Thank you!!
Venev recommends an initial flattening those diamond stones with SiC powder.
Thanks for sharing. Good info to pass on
Learning a lot on your channel. Been replaying your sharpening stroke over and over as I practice. What strop do you recommend in what kind of leather? Also, got a little lost on the stropping compound discussion, so what compounds/progression would you recommend. Many thanks?
As far as strops go, I prefer the Dlt XL leather strop. Just go to Dlt trading's webpage, and search for the double sided xl. In the comments, ask for the thinnest leather they can find, bc they started using thicker pieces. Which is a damn shame, but even those, are better than most you will find.
When it comes to compounds, I suggest white, from StropBros.com . I checked their site recently, and did not see an option, to order single bars, unless you purchase a strop. Otherwise, you have to order a 4 pack, in all colors. I sent them a message, which never got a reply, inquiring if it was still an option, to order all white. So, that said, if you have to order all 4 compounds, the black is too coarse, the red is too fine (i see no benefit using it), but the white and green, are keepers. White of course, being my optimal choice, for all knives. Period.
If you feel the need, you just must have diamond, or cbn, I suggest the 1µ diamond spray from Portland Knife House. TripleB handmade's web site sells it. Often out of stock, but if you watch his page for a week or two, it usually comes available. My biggest gripe with all these types of compounds, is price. They charge WAY TOO much, for sub par results. I get better edges, with $5 white compound, than I do, with $40 sprays.
Take that for what it is worth. Your mileage may vary. Below are some links I tossed together recently for another viewer, on my technique. Perhaps you have seen them, but if not, I encourage you to check them out.
1 hr step by step process : th-cam.com/video/dDXT8zOn5FQ/w-d-xo.html
shortened process: th-cam.com/video/eCa7kbzuvAc/w-d-xo.html
holding consistency: th-cam.com/video/yc0mjAiVFtU/w-d-xo.html
@@Jef Thanks for all the info and your links! Looking forward to diving in.
@@Jef Checked out the DLT strops. I'm going to follow your suggestion on the white compound. On the strop, would you get one side rough, one side smooth, or both sides smooth?
I usually do smooth/rough. Even the rough side, is still pretty smooth. Id go that route and see what you really like. Can always order another after experimenting
@@Jef Thanks!
Hey Jef, I’ve been following your channel for about a year now (since I’ve started freehand sharpening). I personally don’t think you’ve been spreading any sort of misinformation. It’s possible that came about with the Naniwa professional stones but I see that as simply another anecdotal data point that Naniwa’s formula has some issues. I personally have two of the japanese versions and the 800 cracked on me but after some sharpening and flattening sessions it seemed to heal itself. I haven’t used rust erasers so I can’t actually speak to whether they remove more material than a nagura but I’ve heard they’re more gentle. I just started my own channel and did a brief sharpening on my chosera 400 on an old chicago cutlery chef knife, out of a set, I’m restoring. However I just recieved a large cerax 320 and 1500, 3k, and 6k suehiro debado which I’ll be using for the restoration/review. They feel very promising so far but might not be up your alley being medium soft/medium. The steel on these old knives are insanely hard. They sure don’t make knife sets like that anymore. Anyway I love your channel and wanted to let you know you’ve been one of my biggest inspirations.
Best regards, Seth
Thanks for dropping in and letting me know this. I'll be sure to check out your channel :D I love watching sharpening vids, and the more the better. I have a Sehiro Cerax chemical 320, along with the Cerax 700, 1k, and 6k. There are a few vids on my channel talking about em. They feel amazing to sharpen on, but just a tad too soft for my preference, and the polishes are hazy. Again something I don't care for. I just have enough Japanese steel to use their full potential, unfortunately.
Jef Jewell I’ve watched all your stuff lol I wonder if there’s much difference in the chemical vs the newer cerax stuff.
@@seff2318 I'm not sure what the differences are. I do know the Suehiro Chem 320 is supposed to have 2 different binders in it. One side is supposed to be hard, and the other friable. I could never really tell much difference between them, until I dropped it. Took an enormous chunk out of the soft side. Other than that little tid bit, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Can you please do a video on putting metal polish on a strop? Mine is either to soggy or too flakey. I’m using mother’s mag if that makes any difference. Thank you and as always great video thanks for what you do for the community.
Sure. The stuff I use though, is pretty thick and gritty. I can order some more flitz and give that a go. It has a viscosity that is just a bit thicker than water, and may be a better example for Mother's Mag.
Mothers mag to me feels more like a white hair gel it’s pretty thick too but has very little grit. Whichever you think the best medium is works for me. I just appreciate you doing the video. I can’t figure it out. Personally it seems like it just wants to sit on the leather not absorb which means stropping is like a goopy mess. If I put it on cardboard it dries out but then is a chalky flaky nightmare. But dry at least seems to give ok but a powdery clean up.
Jeff I am new to your channel. I was watching Paddy doing a sharpening video using the Venev stones. He did 200+, then 780 finished with 1200. He was very pleased.
Can you tell me where you got the base you used on the stones?? Thank you for the information. What would you recommend for someone looking to get into freehand sharpening ?? I have used Worksharp belt w/grinder and KME fixed systems. Obviously freehand is a different skill set but interested in learning.
The base is just called a "universal stone holder". They can be purchased at many places. Chef Knives to Go, Sharpening supplies, and Amazon all carry them. The cost is approx $28.
Getting started is different for everyone. If you are dealing with super steels, like s90v, and maxamet, I would recommend Gritomatic Silicone carbide stones. 240, 1k, 2.5k. Then get yourself a strop with some compound. Cbn is ok, but honestly, I prefer plain ole white alox. If you are just sharpening standard steels, 1095, 154cm, s30v, 52100, then I would point you towards the Shapton Pro line. 320, 1k, and 5k. Then of course, a strop :)
Check out my video on sharpening stones I recommend. I think the Venev stones here, even make an appearance.
th-cam.com/video/fcprUHO4Zgs/w-d-xo.html
He usually recommends Shapton Kuromaku (320, 1K, 5K) or Gritomatic SiC for wear resistant harder steels. He likes Grit SiC stones better than Venev diamond. A nice 2 stone system would be King Deluxe 300 or Shapton Glass 500 and Shapton Kuromaku 2K. th-cam.com/video/fcprUHO4Zgs/w-d-xo.html
I have same problems with inconsistent and deep scratches with the venev stones as well on my M2 hapstone system...I end up having to run it longer on the 2000 for a longer amount of time with a little or almost no pressure ...But I do have to refresh the stones often, they love to load up fast..
I don’t like the vnev inconsistent af
Yea they remind me very much of ceramics, in the load up aspect. I didn't know if the inconsistency in scratches was just normal, or if that was a product of the Venev. I see random deep scracthes in some of my water stones too, but I just don't look at enough edges magnified, to really make a judgement on em. Cheers!
They are good stones and cut the harder steel easily..I use 1 part toothpaste and 3 parts crushed pumice in a paste form on just a piece of wet scrap leather to clean them in between lappings and it works great for me , saves on removing so much material..By the way love your vids man great content I can't hand sharpen worth a sh..t but I enjoy watching...
Toothpaste and pumice? Ha that’s a first. If it works though, by all means. I think I’ll try bar keep/ajax first. I don’t know where to wven purchase pumice 😂
Appreciate the kind words! Thank you 🙏
😂😂 I know it's seems a little silly but man it sure works for me .. Something in that toothpaste makes fall right out and that softer pumice is just enough to remove the buld up and not so much the diamonds...
That edge might not be mirrored but I like the look. As usual I enjoyed the video.
Thanks. just eye ballin it, I think it looked really nice too
Have you considered trying the Edge Pro diamond matrix stones?
I’ve seen them but haven’t thought about buying any. I may just to show em off to others who may be interested. Thing is i use my hapstone and epa so rarely they’d really be wasted on me
Dont think i seen anyone do a compair between the matrix and venev yet im very curious about it
Is this the 100 percent or 25 percent?
They are older versions. They do not label them with the %. Therefor, i have no idea 🤷♂️
So you still don't like the diamond pastes?
It's not that I don't like them, I just don't see any improvement over using plain white compound. Going through all the different levels of strops, I can get the same results on just one session of white. Maybe my stropping technique is flawed? I dunno. On top of not seeing a difference in the keenness, between white compound vs diamond, I don't see much difference in the polish. They both look pretty similar to me.
Not a fan of the vnev stones leave a inconsistent finish I’m thinking about naniwa stones
Heh, my next video is taking this knife to Naniwa stones
Jef Jewell you have the naniwa diamond stones cool how do you like them
@@bp-hx9ts No, just plain ole Naniwa stones. I didn't realize you were in context of Naniwa Diamond. As for those stones, too expensive. I'll stick with Sic.
Jef Jewell found em for about a hundred on this site japan woodworker I would say there worth it for that price considering that they don’t really wear and polish to a high degree but yeah the sic stones I would say are better value
@@bp-hx9ts What is the link? At that price I'd be willing to try em out