Thank you for sharing. I’ll be looking forward to trying one of your patterns. I am new to wool appliqué. Your project that I could see on the TH-cam looked really pretty the bead added a beautiful finish to the edges.I’ll be looking forward to watching other videos.
What a wonderful video! Clear, concise and so informative, I’m so glad I found your channel. I am off now to try your beaded blanket stitch technique, now I know how to make my stitches look even on the front and back. Thank-you I can’t wait to watch more of your videos.😊🙏
So glad I found your channel! I’ve been adding beads to my work for awhile, using old jewelry beads. Thanks for the great tip about spacing. I also use doll making needles. They are longer than yours, but fit through most beads.
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment...Not so sure about the 'amazing' part (LOL!) but always glad to hear my info is helpful to others. Have fun adding beads to your work! Happy stitching!
Well, when I did my first blanket beading, I slanted the entry needle, like you said NOT to do, but with no training as to how to do it correctly,. Thank you and from now on, I will watch all your videos. 😊😊
Thank you for watching. I'm glad my technique is helpful to you....but as an artist and former art teacher, I will never discourage someone from 'trying their own thing' (that includes beginners who haven't had any instructions!). Some of the greatest innovations have come from people who didn't 'know the rules'. There are so many techniques out there, and you can take them all in and then choose what works for you, because - after all- this is supposed to be fun and satisfying for you. I feel the important thing is just to be consistent in your stitches - no matter what kind.
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment. Always nice to hear that my videos inspire and/or help someone with their adventures into wool work!
Another great video! Your work is gorgeous! I would be interested in seeing how you make your back and how you line everything up so neatly. Thanks for a great tutorial!
Thanks for viewing. Yes...those beads can add so much to a project. If you have worked with Czech beads before, you'll find the Japanese beads so much easier to work with - and yes - you will get to stitch a whole lot more rather than having to constantly pick through beads for shape and size. (This sounds like Czech beads are 'bad' but I should add that I do beaded applique (i.e. like the native americans) and in that case I love all the irregular shapes and sizes of Czech beads that allow me to fit beads to an enclosed shape or wavy line!). Have fun adding beads to your work!
@@marymittelstadt6208 Thank you Mary for letting me know. Stitching wool is my latest craft to attempt and it started by accident. I saw an appliqued table runner in an ad, searched for a similar to buy or make, and discovered the wool penny rug. That must have been recycling in an early form, so I love the historical feel of it, and beads add another dimension. Thanks for your videos Mary. I enjoy them.
Thanks for taking a peek! We all start somewhere - never underestimate the power of a newbie! Because all 'newbies' start without knowing all the 'rules' they sometimes come up with unique and creative solutions and techniques. I used to teach high school art and was always amazed what some of the students who 'didn't read the assignment or the requirements' came up with. So go ahead and learn all the rules, but don't underestimate your own intuition! :)
I went on amazon for the japanese beads. All i could find were dark beads. You said they are readily found. Do they sell them at hobby lobby or michaels or joannes?
Thank you for viewing and for leaving your comment. I am not sure what 'dark beads' are (a bad auto correct??) You can find some resources on the website under the drop down menu for 'Resources/Errata' via this link www.designandbemary.com/resources/ Generally Japanese beads go under the brand names of Toho and Miyuki and stitchery stores often sell them as Mill HIll beads. I don't recommend the big box stores for those new to beading as they often mix their own beads (you have no idea where they are made, etc) and they generally buy lower quality beads that are more apt to have poor finishes and less stable dyes. If you have a knowledgeable friend they might be able to help you distinguish the quality difference. I can't vouch for Amazon as I have never ordered beads from them. I still think bead stores - either in the real or online - are your best bet. The beads are not anymore expensive than the big box stores and usually they have employees that can help you via the phone or messaging. Hope that this info is helpful!
Thank you for viewing Agnes. I am a wool pattern designer (outside of also being a quilter, seamstress, artist, etc.!) and have a little website where you can find tutorials, resources, my blog, all my patterns and a gallery of photos of wool work. The link is www.designandbemary.com/ Please visit and enjoy....you can purchase my patterns directly from the site. As for where I get my wool ....I get it from all different resources. Most people buy from a local quilt shop - if the shop carries wool. I've been lucky enough to visit the Pendleton Woolen Mill Stores in both Portland and Pendleton, Oregon. This is not the same as the stores in outlet malls, etc. They handle all their fabrics, and periodically have sales that I have take advantage of. It does help to kind of know what kinds of wools they have, but they will also send out samples for free. I adore their wool fabrics. I also order a fair amount from the Dorr MIll Store in New Hampshire - they have very reasonable prices and are helpful (They currently have free shipping till the end of August 2020 - that's very nice because wool fabric can be heavy!. Aside from this, I'm lucky to have a textile warehouse not too far from my home - they carry wools, but I must admit it helps to know something about wool fabrics. I've collected wool from wherever I find it at a reasonable price. For me that happens because I grew up sewing garments and learned all about different fabrics, etc. Avoid worsted wools as they specifically are woven to prevent felting - which is what you want your wool to be. I believe there are several on line shops that sell wool fabric as well. Good luck!
Thanks for viewing! The layers you see are the appliqué layers (the flowers, etc.) which are appliquéd to the top background layer (the oatmeal colored wool). This entire top background is backed with Heat N Bond Lite. I actually iron it on when I cut out the top background as it prevents any edge fraying as well as giving me a more firm surface to stitch on which results in more even stitching! You just have to be mindful that if you want to press the appliqués on, be sure to leave- or place back on- the paper backing on the fusible...so you don't fuse it to your ironing surface!! :(. When the top is all 'finished' I then fuse it to the backing which is usually cut a bit larger than the top. In this case I used the same wool as the top background. Once fused, I then cut the backing even with the top background edge for perfectly aligned cut edges. If the outside edges are cut evenly it will make for more evenly laying beads and stitches. So - the short answer is yes there are 3 layers - wool backing, fusible, wool top background!
Mary do you mean in the last sentence 4 layers? the top, interfacing, then also interfacing on the bottom piece, then the bottom piece making 4 layers? Truly inspiring stitching. Thank you so much.
Thanks for your question! These things can be a challenge to describe! lol!! First of all the top appliqués and the top 'background' have fusible applied (I presume that's what you mean by 'interfacing'). All appliqués (with fusible) are placed/sewn on the top background (which has fusible on the back - you will need to remove the paper backing in order to sew on the appliqués. You will be sewing through the fusible backed wool.). Save the paper backing from the fusible so you can place it back on the piece if you wish to press the top appliqués after they are stitched on the top background - this prevents you ironing the piece to your pressing surface. Once this top background is finished, remove the paper backing from the fusible once more, place right side up on top of the backing wool and fuse the top to the backing. On the outside edges where I am demonstrating the beading, there are 3 layers: the top background, the fusible, and then the wool backing. The backing does not need fusible applied because the top background has fusible on it and will serve to fuse the two layers together. Hope this helps. [Check out this tutorial on my website www.DesignAndBeMary.com - Fall Leaves part 5. - there are photos that show how I use fusible to attach the backing. This is an older piece and I used to apply the fusible to the back of the top after I was done stitching, but over time I have found it helpful to attach the fusible to the top before appliquéing as it really helps the wool stay in shape and it helps keep the stitches from pulling, etc. the fusible may 'break up' a bit during stitching but that doesn't seem to affect how well it fuses! Anyhow, check it out. ]@@gingermccafferty9572
My original patterns are available on my website www.designandbemary.com/ Also available are tutorials, resources, a gallery, and blog posts featuring much information about material and techniques I use. Thanks for viewing my video!
I most often use Heat N Bond Lite. (I have tried the Heat N Bond featherweight well as Quilters Select Appli-Web Plus; I like them both, but they both are more finicky about what they will adhere to. So I just tend to use the Heat N Bond lite! It will make your project have a firmer 'hand', but it also will help your projects keep their shapes better and it makes for nice clean edges with much less fraying - especially for wools that have not felted particularly well. Instead of folding my projects to store them, I use those pant hangers with clips to hang my table runners, all hangings and mats that are too large to lay flat in a drawer! I think the company that makes it is ThermoWeb, but it really is just known as HeatNBond (lite)
Thank you for sharing. I’ll be looking forward to trying one of your patterns. I am new to wool appliqué. Your project that I could see on the TH-cam looked really pretty the bead added a beautiful finish to the edges.I’ll be looking forward to watching other videos.
Thank you for viewing and for taking the time to comment. Always glad to hear the info is helpful!
What a wonderful video! Clear, concise and so informative, I’m so glad I found your channel.
I am off now to try your beaded blanket stitch technique, now I know how to make my stitches look even on the front and back. Thank-you I can’t wait to watch more of your videos.😊🙏
So glad I found your channel! I’ve been adding beads to my work for awhile, using old jewelry beads. Thanks for the great tip about spacing. I also use doll making needles. They are longer than yours, but fit through most beads.
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment. Always glad to hear that viewers find helpful hints in my tutorials. Keep up the creativity!!
Thank you for Sharing your beautiful wool applique. It is inspiring.
Thanks for viewing and for taking the time to share a comment. I love it when I have inspired someone else!
Look forward to more tutorials-wool appliqué start to finish, more beadwork, etc.! Love your work.
Me too! Sending lots of love 💝 from sunny ☀Arizona 🌵
Thank you so much for this wonderful video! You are amazing!
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment...Not so sure about the 'amazing' part (LOL!) but always glad to hear my info is helpful to others. Have fun adding beads to your work! Happy stitching!
Well, when I did my first blanket beading, I slanted the entry needle, like you said NOT to do, but with no training as to how to do it correctly,. Thank you and from now on, I will watch all your videos. 😊😊
Thank you for watching. I'm glad my technique is helpful to you....but as an artist and former art teacher, I will never discourage someone from 'trying their own thing' (that includes beginners who haven't had any instructions!). Some of the greatest innovations have come from people who didn't 'know the rules'. There are so many techniques out there, and you can take them all in and then choose what works for you, because - after all- this is supposed to be fun and satisfying for you. I feel the important thing is just to be consistent in your stitches - no matter what kind.
Just found you on you tube. Enjoying your videos. Thank you for the tutorials.
Excellent video. Thanks for all of your information. Adding a bead on every other blanket stitch is very pretty.🐝
Thank you! And the right materials make all the difference. I will be posting other beading techniques in the future!
Your work is beautiful, please post more videos! 😉
Beautiful video….can’t wait to do this. I’ve done a lot of blanket stitch and still learned. 😁😁
Thank you for taking the time to view and to comment. Always nice to hear that my videos inspire and/or help someone with their adventures into wool work!
Another great video! Your work is gorgeous! I would be interested in seeing how you make your back and how you line everything up so neatly. Thanks for a great tutorial!
Thank you! I will keep your suggestion in mind for a future video!
So pretty, this has inspired me to add beads to my edge. Thank you for sharing. Your work is excellent.
Really lovely work. Well done!
I have a great cjeese board that I work on, its so much easier than just by hand! ❤
Thank you for showing this technique!
Enjoy utilizing it in your work work!
Thank you for this video. Very helpful!
You have inspired my next project to include beads! I hope by using the quality Japanese beads I can skip the sorting for uniform shape and size.
Thanks for viewing. Yes...those beads can add so much to a project. If you have worked with Czech beads before, you'll find the Japanese beads so much easier to work with - and yes - you will get to stitch a whole lot more rather than having to constantly pick through beads for shape and size. (This sounds like Czech beads are 'bad' but I should add that I do beaded applique (i.e. like the native americans) and in that case I love all the irregular shapes and sizes of Czech beads that allow me to fit beads to an enclosed shape or wavy line!). Have fun adding beads to your work!
@@marymittelstadt6208 Thank you Mary for letting me
know. Stitching wool is my latest craft to attempt and it started by accident. I saw an appliqued table runner in an ad, searched for a similar to buy or make, and discovered the wool penny rug. That must have been recycling in an early form, so I love the historical feel of it, and beads add another dimension. Thanks for your videos Mary. I enjoy them.
Stunning!
Thank you for viewing!
Excellent videos! Your tips are priceless. Thank you for sharing and I look forward for more....please!!
Thank you from a newbie!
Thanks for taking a peek! We all start somewhere - never underestimate the power of a newbie! Because all 'newbies' start without knowing all the 'rules' they sometimes come up with unique and creative solutions and techniques. I used to teach high school art and was always amazed what some of the students who 'didn't read the assignment or the requirements' came up with. So go ahead and learn all the rules, but don't underestimate your own intuition! :)
beautiful
thank you for viewing!
I went on amazon for the japanese beads. All i could find were dark beads. You said they are readily found. Do they sell them at hobby lobby or michaels or joannes?
Thank you for viewing and for leaving your comment. I am not sure what 'dark beads' are (a bad auto correct??) You can find some resources on the website under the drop down menu for 'Resources/Errata' via this link www.designandbemary.com/resources/ Generally Japanese beads go under the brand names of Toho and Miyuki and stitchery stores often sell them as Mill HIll beads. I don't recommend the big box stores for those new to beading as they often mix their own beads (you have no idea where they are made, etc) and they generally buy lower quality beads that are more apt to have poor finishes and less stable dyes. If you have a knowledgeable friend they might be able to help you distinguish the quality difference. I can't vouch for Amazon as I have never ordered beads from them. I still think bead stores - either in the real or online - are your best bet. The beads are not anymore expensive than the big box stores and usually they have employees that can help you via the phone or messaging. Hope that this info is helpful!
🌻 Peachy
Where do you get the patterns and wool for these beautiful projects?
Thank you for viewing Agnes. I am a wool pattern designer (outside of also being a quilter, seamstress, artist, etc.!) and have a little website where you can find tutorials, resources, my blog, all my patterns and a gallery of photos of wool work. The link is www.designandbemary.com/ Please visit and enjoy....you can purchase my patterns directly from the site. As for where I get my wool ....I get it from all different resources. Most people buy from a local quilt shop - if the shop carries wool. I've been lucky enough to visit the Pendleton Woolen Mill Stores in both Portland and Pendleton, Oregon. This is not the same as the stores in outlet malls, etc. They handle all their fabrics, and periodically have sales that I have take advantage of. It does help to kind of know what kinds of wools they have, but they will also send out samples for free. I adore their wool fabrics. I also order a fair amount from the Dorr MIll Store in New Hampshire - they have very reasonable prices and are helpful (They currently have free shipping till the end of August 2020 - that's very nice because wool fabric can be heavy!. Aside from this, I'm lucky to have a textile warehouse not too far from my home - they carry wools, but I must admit it helps to know something about wool fabrics. I've collected wool from wherever I find it at a reasonable price. For me that happens because I grew up sewing garments and learned all about different fabrics, etc. Avoid worsted wools as they specifically are woven to prevent felting - which is what you want your wool to be. I believe there are several on line shops that sell wool fabric as well. Good luck!
I love the video, Is your wool in a double layer with the fusible in the middle? What kind of fusible do you use?
Thanks for viewing! The layers you see are the appliqué layers (the flowers, etc.) which are appliquéd to the top background layer (the oatmeal colored wool). This entire top background is backed with Heat N Bond Lite. I actually iron it on when I cut out the top background as it prevents any edge fraying as well as giving me a more firm surface to stitch on which results in more even stitching! You just have to be mindful that if you want to press the appliqués on, be sure to leave- or place back on- the paper backing on the fusible...so you don't fuse it to your ironing surface!! :(. When the top is all 'finished' I then fuse it to the backing which is usually cut a bit larger than the top. In this case I used the same wool as the top background. Once fused, I then cut the backing even with the top background edge for perfectly aligned cut edges. If the outside edges are cut evenly it will make for more evenly laying beads and stitches. So - the short answer is yes there are 3 layers - wool backing, fusible, wool top background!
Mary do you mean in the last sentence 4 layers? the top, interfacing, then also interfacing on the bottom piece, then the bottom piece making 4 layers? Truly inspiring stitching. Thank you so much.
Thanks for your question! These things can be a challenge to describe! lol!! First of all the top appliqués and the top 'background' have fusible applied (I presume that's what you mean by 'interfacing'). All appliqués (with fusible) are placed/sewn on the top background (which has fusible on the back - you will need to remove the paper backing in order to sew on the appliqués. You will be sewing through the fusible backed wool.). Save the paper backing from the fusible so you can place it back on the piece if you wish to press the top appliqués after they are stitched on the top background - this prevents you ironing the piece to your pressing surface. Once this top background is finished, remove the paper backing from the fusible once more, place right side up on top of the backing wool and fuse the top to the backing. On the outside edges where I am demonstrating the beading, there are 3 layers: the top background, the fusible, and then the wool backing. The backing does not need fusible applied because the top background has fusible on it and will serve to fuse the two layers together. Hope this helps. [Check out this tutorial on my website www.DesignAndBeMary.com - Fall Leaves part 5. - there are photos that show how I use fusible to attach the backing. This is an older piece and I used to apply the fusible to the back of the top after I was done stitching, but over time I have found it helpful to attach the fusible to the top before appliquéing as it really helps the wool stay in shape and it helps keep the stitches from pulling, etc. the fusible may 'break up' a bit during stitching but that doesn't seem to affect how well it fuses! Anyhow, check it out. ]@@gingermccafferty9572
Where do you get the patterns?
My original patterns are available on my website www.designandbemary.com/ Also available are tutorials, resources, a gallery, and blog posts featuring much information about material and techniques I use. Thanks for viewing my video!
Hi! What brand and weight fusible do you use on your wool projects?
I most often use Heat N Bond Lite. (I have tried the Heat N Bond featherweight well as Quilters Select Appli-Web Plus; I like them both, but they both are more finicky about what they will adhere to. So I just tend to use the Heat N Bond lite! It will make your project have a firmer 'hand', but it also will help your projects keep their shapes better and it makes for nice clean edges with much less fraying - especially for wools that have not felted particularly well. Instead of folding my projects to store them, I use those pant hangers with clips to hang my table runners, all hangings and mats that are too large to lay flat in a drawer! I think the company that makes it is ThermoWeb, but it really is just known as HeatNBond (lite)
Thank You so much. I have some in my “stash” but was reluctant to use until I knew for sure it was the correct product. Oh Happy Day🤗‼️
Do you have a website? Thanks for the tutorial!
www.DesignAndBeMary.com. Thanks for viewing the video!
Hugh Union