I do love the way the chinese just make up some sentences and stick them in with no regard for what they actually say. My uncle has a worklight that says 'flowery scent light"... Took me a while to realize they meant fluorescent
+TheChipmunk2008 More a translation software making stuff up in that case I'd guess, than a Chinese speaker trying to write English. Cheap translations always attract strange errors. Especially when you are translating from a language that has an entirely different root and grammatical structure. But hey.. Better than our Chinese in most cases.
+TheChipmunk2008 Besides being an electronic nut, I used to be a gun nut as well. I have dropped that hobby and only have a few guns left from my collection, and my days as a police officer, but I still watch videos on old guns. One channel, forgotten weapons, did a few shows around handguns made in China in small hack shops back in the 30's, they are the same, many are stampped with logos saying they are Browning, or Mauser, when clearly they are not, many have parts milled on the guns that have no purpose, but look like the same on "real" mausers and brownings. Apparently this is a long tradidion in China.
I have been a fan of old Casio watches for many years, and when I find a deal on one, I snatch them up. Here about 2 years ago, I found a Casio Tela-data solar powered watch for a very reasonable price, old stock new in box. Last year, I was wearing her, for probably about the 5th day since I dug her out from my packed back when we were on our Winter escape to Arizona. We stopped in a Denny's truck stop in Kingman Arizona, and enjoyed some of the best damn country fried steak I have ever eaten. When I went to pay, the lovely little lady, perhaps 19 years old and overall about a 9.66 on the gal scale saw my watch. She was amazed that they made a solar powered watch, I explained it was an old watch from a long time back. She said she would love to have one like that, showing me the band watch sort of like the one you have in this video, well with a black strap and perhaps a more expensive model, who can tell now days. She said her husband just gave her that watch and the darn thing must be charged EVERY DAY, such a pain, why don't they just make them like the one I had. She even offered to buy the watch, but I apologized and said it was not for sale, but she took down the make and model of the watch and was going to look for one on Ebay. Some times the old things are just better.
That constant current load has 2 modes of operation - one is cc other is battery testing. you switch between them by holding one of the buttons while powering on. Also use 2 wires for current and 2 for voltage sensing (sensing voltage on same wires as high current will result in lower voltage readout)
+Google+ SUCKS BALLS - the worst forced social network Reminds me of a project I did a while ago. A linear voltage regulator that was battery powered.It controlled the output of a mosfet using an opamp with a voltage reference that was variable with a pot. It worked brilliantly.... unless the load was even remotely heavy, and then basically just caused the voltage input to drop and intensified the batteries natural voltage drop. Ended up having to clamp the input voltage 2v lower than full charge to prevent that, which limited the voltage output of the variable supply to 2v lower than what the batteries could output, but allowed for higher amperage loads. Voltage drop is a pain in the ass :P
Here is the info on that unit from the one i bought as you can see it does quite a bit . Power supply requirement : DC12V voltage ( actual voltage 11-14V) current is not less than 0.5A of power, the power will be displayed inappropriate Err6 Note: The default power adapter is not included = Operating modes: single mode constant current (CC) Discharge current : 0.20-9.99A stepper 0.1A or0.01A Discharge current maximum error : 0.7% -0.01A The maximum capacity test error : 0.5A 2.5%, 2A 1.5%, 5A and above 1.2% Offline ( termination ) Voltage Range : 1.0-25.0V stepping 1V or 0.1V Discharge voltage : 1.00-30.00V The maximum voltage measurement error : 1% + - 0.02V Maximum power : 60W super power automatically limits the maximum current (for example, up to 60W when it can open 9.99A 6V and 20V maximum at the only open 3.00A) Highest battery test statistic : 999.9Ah or 9999Wh, achieve value stop testing ( first value to those who stop condition ) Board size : 60W 100mm * 70mm * 57mm ( fan prominent board about 12mm) Positioning hole locations : 60mm * 88mm diameter 3.2mm 5mm pedestal already installed Fan control : intelligent fan control ( according to the radiator fan can be infinitely variable automatic temperature ) Protection: Overheat protection "otP", transient overpower protection "oPP", overpressure protection "ouP", reverse polarity protection, power supply voltage abnormal protection . Instructions: A : mode settings ( default factory for electronic load mode ) : Hold down the start-stop button ( red button ) to the tester simultaneously energized until the key is released showing Fun * When , by rotating the knob to change the setting , "Fun1" for electronic load mode , "Fun2" battery capacity test mode. Push button start and stop at the buzzer after entering the settings, also set "bEon" buzzer by turning the knob to open or "bEoF" buzzer closes After setting press the button again to start and stop at the tester restart. Setting Digital Illustration: II: Electronic Load mode: 1. Turn on the power supply 12V boot into electronic load mode , ensuring in a stopped state ("RUN" does not light, otherwise the press of the start-stop switch to turn off the load ) connected to the power supply under test to the test port input power (P + P - ) , pay attention not to take the wrong polarity ! 2. Set current and lower voltage knob , turn the knob to set the value of the current setting position , then press the knob to change the setting digit, digital middle two digits to the right of the indicator and digital indicator VA simultaneously determine the current set position . 3. Press the start-stop switch , load began to run , "RUN" lights , power is applied to the circuit under test is set to enter the discharge current , while the upper display the actual input load voltage , when the voltage drops below the set limit voltage " RUN " LED flashes and short beep alarm buzzer accompanied . 4. The test procedure can be modified at any current , and if you need to modify the lower voltage to stop the load can modify . Note:When in alarm state , can only transfer a small current does not increase !Tester automatic power-down feature to save enough to save the set parameters and run state, when the state again after power transmission will complete before the power failure and restore data. 3: The battery capacity test mode: 1. The test battery should be fully charged with a special charger ! 2. Give the tester is powered into the battery capacity test mode, connect the battery current line to P + P- positive and negative terminals , if you use four-wire clamp test, while the four-wire interface to the positive and negative voltage test fixture is connected to V + V - port. 3. Turn the knob to set the discharge current and discharge voltage ( referring to two specific methods : 2 Description ) , one press after setting the start and stop switch , a battery tester and a first line detection, automatic identification 2-4 line ( 2-wire line identification presentation JS-2,4 identification JS-4, if an error please stop the test and check the wiring ) , then enter the test , if the fault code appears , refer to later explain . The testing process will round up digital noticeable battery voltage , current , and the current discharge capacity Ah discharge energy Wh, when the discharge end ( battery voltage is below the set voltage ) , the tester displays the data stays in Ah and blink rapidly , with bee shortness buzzer alarm. 5. Press the start and stop at the knob or switch to stop the alarm , you can turn the knob to view the battery discharge data , including discharge capacity Ah, Wh and discharge energy platform voltage V, start-stop button is pressed again , clear the data back to the initial setting interface before testing the next section batteries. Additional information: 1. Battery test process can adjust the discharge current , if you need to re- adjust the termination voltage , you can pause by pressing the switch at the start and stop the discharge modification ( pause discharge will return to the settings page , this time discharge data is not lost , if necessary , you can long press clears the data until the start-stop switch 0.000Ah). 2. Tester automatic storage can record setting parameters , and record all parameters and status at the end of the test process and test power failure alarm status , re- transmission of all automatically restored. Fault protection codes and meanings : Err1: ultra-high capacity test the battery voltage . Err2: battery voltage is below the set termination voltage is not connected to the battery or the battery is reversed . Err3: line resistance is too large or the battery can not afford to set the discharge current. Err4: circuit failure . Err6: working power is inappropriate , use a standard 12V power supply , and the supply current is not less than 0.5A. otP: overheating protection. Ert: temperature sensor failure or the temperature is too low. ouP: ultra-high voltage electron -load mode .
You shouldn't parallel up voltage regulators. You can series voltage sources and parallel current sources, but not the other way round without additional infrastructure. You'll get circulating currents leasing to high quiescent current or damage
+Julian Ilett You can certainly get them, but I'm not sure how available they are on ebay. They tend to come in standard power ratings - 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 25, 50W. Would be worth trying to parallel up for the video though, maybe you can measure of the outputs are imbalanced - you might be lucky
Great episode and I really appreciate the time watching you enjoy each package that you receive. The Robot is awesome. We're all kids at heart . Keep up the great episodes.
Gah? Just finished recording my review of this DC load, looked at my phone and am greeted with your video :D. Reg. Ah/Wh: The device features two firmwares, you only used the simple "DC Load". To switch to the more advanced "Battery test mode" hold down the Run-Button while powering up. Change to "fun2" using the encoder. The settings are identical but the load shuts down when reaching the voltage limit and allows to switch to Ah/Wh. Counters are kept over run/stop and can be reset by holding down run.
beep and red blink meaning you have set the cut off voltage, and load is off. to get to the battery test mode, pull the power code (12v in) press hold the red button and plug the 12v back. it will allow you set the operation mode, Fu-1 Fun-2 Instructions: A : mode settings ( default factory for electronic load mode ) : Hold down the start-stop button ( red button ) to the tester simultaneously energized until the key is released showing Fun * When , by rotating the knob to change the setting , "Fun1" for electronic load mode , "Fun2" battery capacity test mode. Push button start and stop at the buzzer after entering the settings, also set "bEon" buzzer by turning the knob to open or "bEoF" buzzer closes After setting press the button again to start and stop at the tester restart. Setting Digital Illustration: II: Electronic Load mode: 1. Turn on the power supply 12V boot into electronic load mode , ensuring in a stopped state ("RUN" does not light, otherwise the press of the start-stop switch to turn off the load ) connected to the power supply under test to the test port input power (P + P - ) , pay attention not to take the wrong polarity ! 2. Set current and lower voltage knob , turn the knob to set the value of the current setting position , then press the knob to change the setting digit, digital middle two digits to the right of the indicator and digital indicator VA simultaneously determine the current set position . 3. Press the start-stop switch , load began to run , "RUN" lights , power is applied to the circuit under test is set to enter the discharge current , while the upper display the actual input load voltage , when the voltage drops below the set limit voltage " RUN " LED flashes and short beep alarm buzzer accompanied . 4. The test procedure can be modified at any current , and if you need to modify the lower voltage to stop the load can modify . Note:When in alarm state , can only transfer a small current does not increase !Tester automatic power-down feature to save enough to save the set parameters and run state, when the state again after power transmission will complete before the power failure and restore data. 3: The battery capacity test mode: 1. The test battery should be fully charged with a special charger ! 2. Give the tester is powered into the battery capacity test mode, connect the battery current line to P + P- positive and negative terminals , if you use four-wire clamp test, while the four-wire interface to the positive and negative voltage test fixture is connected to V + V - port. 3. Turn the knob to set the discharge current and discharge voltage ( referring to two specific methods : 2 Description ) , one press after setting the start and stop switch , a battery tester and a first line detection, automatic identification 2-4 line ( 2-wire line identification presentation JS-2,4 identification JS-4, if an error please stop the test and check the wiring ) , then enter the test , if the fault code appears , refer to later explain . The testing process will round up digital noticeable battery voltage , current , and the current discharge capacity Ah discharge energy Wh, when the discharge end ( battery voltage is below the set voltage ) , the tester displays the data stays in Ah and blink rapidly , with bee shortness buzzer alarm. 5. Press the start and stop at the knob or switch to stop the alarm , you can turn the knob to view the battery discharge data , including discharge capacity Ah, Wh and discharge energy platform voltage V, start-stop button is pressed again , clear the data back to the initial setting interface before testing the next section batteries. Additional information: 1. Battery test process can adjust the discharge current , if you need to re- adjust the termination voltage , you can pause by pressing the switch at the start and stop the discharge modification ( pause discharge will return to the settings page , this time discharge data is not lost , if necessary , you can long press clears the data until the start-stop switch 0.000Ah). 2. Tester automatic storage can record setting parameters , and record all parameters and status at the end of the test process and test power failure alarm status , re- transmission of all automatically restored. Fault protection codes and meanings : Err1: ultra-high capacity test the battery voltage . Err2: battery voltage is below the set termination voltage is not connected to the battery or the battery is reversed . Err3: line resistance is too large or the battery can not afford to set the discharge current. Err4: circuit failure . Err6: working power is inappropriate , use a standard 12V power supply , and the supply current is not less than 0.5A. otP: overheating protection. Ert: temperature sensor failure or the temperature is too low. ouP: ultra-high voltage electron -load mode . oPP: under ultra-high power electronic load mode instantly .
You can use standard 220v to 5v wall adapter for isolation. They work mostly >40v dc too. And take cheap 600W DC-DC converter to step up 12v to 80v and use cheap (~2,5$ 5v 2A) standard wall adapters as many you like, they are all isolated.
Like that robot thing, can't wait till you have it built up. That light on the solar cell reminds me, a few weeks ago I found my old Casio battryless watch with solar panal on the face. I left it lay under my 3way incondecent bulb but it simply refused to energize the cap's. A few days ago it dawned on me that perhaps my 10 wat solar 12 volt home built flashlight may give it the boost it needed. So about 3 minutes under the light, and it became a watch again. Since then I haven't had it outdoors (been snowing here ever since) or under my flashlight, yet it has kept on running wtih no problems. TOday I strapped her on my wrist again, and she still has the proper time and is running strong. Funny how such a short time under the LED could give her such a charge.
+Julian Ilett Ya I got one of those blue tooth watches as well, it charges real quick and goes dead real quick as well. That said, if I leave it plugged in for several hours, it runs much longer. This is one of those with no battery but caps instead and charges via solar. I was just amazed at how quickly it takes a charge from LED rather then incandescent. I held her before the LED for about five minutes and it ran for days on that little charge. I haven't been outdoors for weeks now that we came back from Arizona, so it has zero contact with the bright sun, just artificial light. I was VERY dissapointed with the bluetooth watch. I had one before that was much better but I messed up and plugged the wrong plug in the wrong port and nuked the speaker so I replaced it with a cheaper model,. I have one of those old phone watch that works so much better however it doesn't work the the cell company I use so I can only use the bluetooth and watch videos on it. So small though hard on the eyes. I also have a very old MP4 watch that plays videos very well, again I used the wrong plug to charge it once and it knocked out one side of the audio. Still useful but I miss the stereo audio. That's why I went back to the plain old digital solar watch for awhile. As you may guess, I like watches of all sorts, I probably have nearly 50 odd watches laying around the house. Many of them are the cheap 5 buck china type.
Are these really the edges of the glass of the display that go right to the edge of the wrist band? That display won't survive long (and you may even cut yourself in the process)! *Switching regulators don't really like to be paralleled* (it's less of an issue with linear regulators), *but you can try* with precautions. Put an output cap on each output (the datasheet for the regulator recommends 4.7µF/16V for the 5V outputs) and than put a small balancing resistor (
In case you never found the instructions for the Battery Discharger, hold down the tactile switch and then power up the unit and you'll get two Functions FUN1 and FUN2. Fun2 will log the Wh etc.
+Julian Ilett I got that same load a few days ago and played with it today. Seems very useful and accurate. You might take a look at the youtube channel from Voltlog. He made a few videos about it and also did a mod for changing its range down to 20mA to 1 amp which might be more useful for testing batteries.
I love you vlogs,I love that you include the web sites so we can find what you have shown us thanks. A lot of other people that try to do what you do,don't give us the web sites,
That electronic load sure is a useful thing to have, can't say that about the toy, though. But, whatever :) The little DC-DC converter can be handy for powering Arduinos or such from your solar without using 7805's, way more efficient. However, I wouldn't recommend powering something sensitive with them, noise may become a problem.
***** There will be noise anyway, even after you add more filtering. You'll just decrease its amplitude, but there's a lot of circuits which are very finicky when it comes to power supplies.
I literally have hundreds of these USB phone chargers. They're free at garage and lawn sales. I glue them together and wire the AC parts together in a case of some kind.
Just wondered if you have published any video showing how to operate the battery tester module in this episode of postbag? Otherwise thanks for all your helpful and interesting reviews.
Hi Julian, Voltlog's channel has a lot of info on this current load including a nice mod. I ordered one today although will build my own down the road with PC data logging, better precision and range (I hope).
ST stps devices are always (power) schottky diodes (maybe it stands for ST power schottky? not sure). You come across them very often in switchmode powersupplies as secondary rectifiers (in particular stps30 and stps40).
That chip in that smart watch seems to be NXP QN9021 Bluetooth LE system on chip. Not bad actually considering its some cheapee from china. It also seems to have broken out the programing interface (pads labeled SWDIO). Wondering if there is any free toolchain with BTLE stack available for it...
+Julian Ilett is there on eBay small power supply like those that you review that can go from 0 mA not 200mA like here on video and same for voltage from 0v ?
+drkastenbrot Makes perfect sense to me. I made few chargers using QX4054 (LTC4054's knock off) and they are great for small batteries. Due to small package size, it can't dissipate much heat, so I set mine at 200mA
+Julian Ilett I would have guessed the LTC5054-4.2 because its the most used one for low current applications. But those ics are pretty much all the same anyways.
the tiny motor can drive the gearbox which then move the trex? by solar directly? how much current is the panel spitting out? it will be amazing to see it built.
Just wondering could you perhaps use the 2 five volters one for positive five volts, the other for negative 5 volts, giving you a power supply for an opamp?
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Smart watch uses NXP's (Quintic) QN9021 Cortex-M0 Bluetooth Smart chip and the motion sensor (accelerometer) is LIS3DH from STMicroelectronics. Model (of a smart watch) TW64S (with a heart rate monitoring function) should have Nordic's nRF51822 BT chip inside.
+Matej Zubčić Excellent info, thanks. It'll be interesting to see what the other watch contains.
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+Julian Ilett Since I've been on the hunt for a hackable watch, I've seen most of their insides :) "Basic" smart watches/bands generally use these ICs: TI CC2541, Dialog DA14580, NXP QN9021, Nordic nRF51822 and a combination of a uC paired with Nordic's nRF8001. If they have a heart rate monitoring function, they tend to use nRF51822 (more oomph). I hope that I didn't spoil your investigative element of surprise ;)
Is the UltraFire battery manufacture paying you to have those in videos? Seem to have seen them in a few including the last video where you said they were fake and didn't hold the capacity listed on them. Just wondering as I see them predominantly displayed with label face up just like and next to your flashlight... err... torch. ;-)
At 17min, you are guessing about a chip. It is possible a PIC micro controller has been implemented. There are literally hundreds upon hundreds of them!
I was looking into nRF51822, I saw your video on the argument but I want to program it with a generic stm32 board. It should be really fun to find an exact watch like this with a nordic chip and be actually able to reprogram it :) you said you have another one on the way, let's hope it has an nRF :D
Hey, I love the fact that you talk about how the technology works and works together. I'm still a bit of a newbie though. Do you know of a channel/source where they do a walk through on a comprehensible circuit? Now I know how switches and resistors and capacitors work, so I don't need the absolute basics. Advanced newbie... showing how each part works and works together. Any suggestions. Anyone?
Simontay,I no what a dummy load for test c.b. radio equipment ,but what are talking about, I think I may want to get that power supply,now where to buy a power supply big enough to run that thing,anyone.
love ur videos, i recently subscribed so was watching ur very old power bank reviews, i recently ordered a single cell power bank box and on opening it i saw a chip labelled VD4308 and on second line 435L3Z, any datasheet on this or any clue if it has short circuit protection or no because other than this chip it just has 3 capacitors, 1 resistor and 2 indicator LEDs
Isn't that the way it goes Julian. When you are outside and trying to work with your solar panels, there are too many clouds. Then when indoors no clouds and the sun comes in washing out a LED display. Yeah, that's typical. When in the garden, there is a drought, then washing your car or hang clothes on the line outside, then it rains. Welcome to the pesky side of reality.
Wouldn’t be logical to connect couple of amp/volt meters while you are "testing" these modules? At the risk of insulting you, do you know Ohm's law? It seems to me you are taking "short" cuts and rushing through, just to post a video!
love ur videos, i recently subscribed so was watching ur very old power bank reviews, i recently ordered a single cell power bank box and on opening it i saw a chip labelled VD4308 and on second line 435L3Z, any datasheet on this or any clue if it has short circuit protection or no because other than this chip it just has 3 capacitors, 1 resistor, 2 indicator LEDs and an inductor
I do love the way the chinese just make up some sentences and stick them in with no regard for what they actually say.
My uncle has a worklight that says 'flowery scent light"... Took me a while to realize they meant fluorescent
+TheChipmunk2008 LOL
+TheChipmunk2008
More a translation software making stuff up in that case I'd guess, than a Chinese speaker trying to write English.
Cheap translations always attract strange errors.
Especially when you are translating from a language that has an entirely different root and grammatical structure.
But hey.. Better than our Chinese in most cases.
+TheChipmunk2008 Priceless.
+TheChipmunk2008 Besides being an electronic nut, I used to be a gun nut as well. I have dropped that hobby and only have a few guns left from my collection, and my days as a police officer, but I still watch videos on old guns. One channel, forgotten weapons, did a few shows around handguns made in China in small hack shops back in the 30's, they are the same, many are stampped with logos saying they are Browning, or Mauser, when clearly they are not, many have parts milled on the guns that have no purpose, but look like the same on "real" mausers and brownings. Apparently this is a long tradidion in China.
Jerry Ericsson It's all very interesting. I would love to get my hands on one of those knock-offs. Have you tried Banggood for electronics?
I have been a fan of old Casio watches for many years, and when I find a deal on one, I snatch them up. Here about 2 years ago, I found a Casio Tela-data solar powered watch for a very reasonable price, old stock new in box. Last year, I was wearing her, for probably about the 5th day since I dug her out from my packed back when we were on our Winter escape to Arizona. We stopped in a Denny's truck stop in Kingman Arizona, and enjoyed some of the best damn country fried steak I have ever eaten. When I went to pay, the lovely little lady, perhaps 19 years old and overall about a 9.66 on the gal scale saw my watch. She was amazed that they made a solar powered watch, I explained it was an old watch from a long time back. She said she would love to have one like that, showing me the band watch sort of like the one you have in this video, well with a black strap and perhaps a more expensive model, who can tell now days. She said her husband just gave her that watch and the darn thing must be charged EVERY DAY, such a pain, why don't they just make them like the one I had. She even offered to buy the watch, but I apologized and said it was not for sale, but she took down the make and model of the watch and was going to look for one on Ebay. Some times the old things are just better.
That constant current load has 2 modes of operation - one is cc other is battery testing. you switch between them by holding one of the buttons while powering on. Also use 2 wires for current and 2 for voltage sensing (sensing voltage on same wires as high current will result in lower voltage readout)
+Google+ SUCKS BALLS - the worst forced social network Reminds me of a project I did a while ago. A linear voltage regulator that was battery powered.It controlled the output of a mosfet using an opamp with a voltage reference that was variable with a pot. It worked brilliantly.... unless the load was even remotely heavy, and then basically just caused the voltage input to drop and intensified the batteries natural voltage drop. Ended up having to clamp the input voltage 2v lower than full charge to prevent that, which limited the voltage output of the variable supply to 2v lower than what the batteries could output, but allowed for higher amperage loads. Voltage drop is a pain in the ass :P
Here is the info on that unit from the one i bought as you can see it does quite a bit .
Power supply requirement : DC12V voltage ( actual voltage 11-14V) current is not less than 0.5A of power, the power will be displayed inappropriate Err6
Note: The default power adapter is not included =
Operating modes: single mode constant current (CC)
Discharge current : 0.20-9.99A stepper 0.1A or0.01A
Discharge current maximum error : 0.7% -0.01A
The maximum capacity test error : 0.5A 2.5%, 2A 1.5%, 5A and above 1.2%
Offline ( termination ) Voltage Range : 1.0-25.0V stepping 1V or 0.1V
Discharge voltage : 1.00-30.00V
The maximum voltage measurement error : 1% + - 0.02V
Maximum power : 60W super power automatically limits the maximum current (for example, up to 60W when it can open 9.99A 6V and 20V maximum at the only open 3.00A)
Highest battery test statistic : 999.9Ah or 9999Wh, achieve value stop testing ( first value to those who stop condition )
Board size : 60W 100mm * 70mm * 57mm ( fan prominent board about 12mm)
Positioning hole locations : 60mm * 88mm diameter 3.2mm 5mm pedestal already installed
Fan control : intelligent fan control ( according to the radiator fan can be infinitely variable automatic temperature )
Protection: Overheat protection "otP", transient overpower protection "oPP", overpressure protection "ouP", reverse polarity protection, power supply voltage abnormal protection .
Instructions:
A : mode settings ( default factory for electronic load mode ) : Hold down the start-stop button ( red button ) to the tester simultaneously energized until the key is released showing Fun * When , by rotating the knob to change the setting , "Fun1" for electronic load mode , "Fun2" battery capacity test mode. Push button start and stop at the buzzer after entering the settings, also set "bEon" buzzer by turning the knob to open or "bEoF" buzzer closes After setting press the button again to start and stop at the tester restart.
Setting Digital Illustration:
II: Electronic Load mode:
1. Turn on the power supply 12V boot into electronic load mode , ensuring in a stopped state ("RUN" does not light, otherwise the press of the start-stop switch to turn off the load ) connected to the power supply under test to the test port input power (P + P - ) , pay attention not to take the wrong polarity !
2. Set current and lower voltage knob , turn the knob to set the value of the current setting position , then press the knob to change the setting digit, digital middle two digits to the right of the indicator and digital indicator VA simultaneously determine the current set position .
3. Press the start-stop switch , load began to run , "RUN" lights , power is applied to the circuit under test is set to enter the discharge current , while the upper display the actual input load voltage , when the voltage drops below the set limit voltage " RUN " LED flashes and short beep alarm buzzer accompanied .
4. The test procedure can be modified at any current , and if you need to modify the lower voltage to stop the load can modify .
Note:When in alarm state , can only transfer a small current does not increase !Tester automatic power-down feature to save enough to save the set parameters and run state, when the state again after power transmission will complete before the power failure and restore data.
3: The battery capacity test mode:
1. The test battery should be fully charged with a special charger !
2. Give the tester is powered into the battery capacity test mode, connect the battery current line to P + P- positive and negative terminals , if you use four-wire clamp test, while the four-wire interface to the positive and negative voltage test fixture is connected to V + V - port.
3. Turn the knob to set the discharge current and discharge voltage ( referring to two specific methods : 2 Description ) , one press after setting the start and stop switch , a battery tester and a first line detection, automatic identification 2-4 line ( 2-wire line identification presentation JS-2,4 identification JS-4, if an error please stop the test and check the wiring ) , then enter the test , if the fault code appears , refer to later explain .
The testing process will round up digital noticeable battery voltage , current , and the current discharge capacity Ah discharge energy Wh, when the discharge end ( battery voltage is below the set voltage ) , the tester displays the data stays in Ah and blink rapidly , with bee shortness buzzer alarm.
5. Press the start and stop at the knob or switch to stop the alarm , you can turn the knob to view the battery discharge data , including discharge capacity Ah, Wh and discharge energy platform voltage V, start-stop button is pressed again , clear the data back to the initial setting interface before testing the next section batteries.
Additional information:
1. Battery test process can adjust the discharge current , if you need to re- adjust the termination voltage , you can pause by pressing the switch at the start and stop the discharge modification ( pause discharge will return to the settings page , this time discharge data is not lost , if necessary , you can long press clears the data until the start-stop switch 0.000Ah).
2. Tester automatic storage can record setting parameters , and record all parameters and status at the end of the test process and test power failure alarm status , re- transmission of all automatically restored.
Fault protection codes and meanings :
Err1: ultra-high capacity test the battery voltage .
Err2: battery voltage is below the set termination voltage is not connected to the battery or the battery is reversed .
Err3: line resistance is too large or the battery can not afford to set the discharge current.
Err4: circuit failure .
Err6: working power is inappropriate , use a standard 12V power supply , and the supply current is not less than 0.5A.
otP: overheating protection.
Ert: temperature sensor failure or the temperature is too low.
ouP: ultra-high voltage electron -load mode .
You shouldn't parallel up voltage regulators. You can series voltage sources and parallel current sources, but not the other way round without additional infrastructure. You'll get circulating currents leasing to high quiescent current or damage
+SDG Electronics Good point. It's a shame these converters don't have higher power ratings.
+Julian Ilett You can certainly get them, but I'm not sure how available they are on ebay. They tend to come in standard power ratings - 1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 15, 25, 50W. Would be worth trying to parallel up for the video though, maybe you can measure of the outputs are imbalanced - you might be lucky
Great episode and I really appreciate the time watching you enjoy each package that you receive. The Robot is awesome. We're all kids at heart . Keep up the great episodes.
Gah? Just finished recording my review of this DC load, looked at my phone and am greeted with your video :D. Reg. Ah/Wh: The device features two firmwares, you only used the simple "DC Load". To switch to the more advanced "Battery test mode" hold down the Run-Button while powering up. Change to "fun2" using the encoder. The settings are identical but the load shuts down when reaching the voltage limit and allows to switch to Ah/Wh. Counters are kept over run/stop and can be reset by holding down run.
+BitBastelei Aha, I'll try the other mode - cheers :)
I've posted a video on how to use it a couple of weeks ago - search zpb30a
beep and red blink meaning you have set the cut off voltage, and load is off.
to get to the battery test mode, pull the power code (12v in) press hold the red button and plug the 12v back. it will allow you set the operation mode, Fu-1 Fun-2
Instructions:
A : mode settings ( default factory for electronic load mode ) : Hold down the start-stop button ( red button ) to the tester simultaneously energized until the key is released showing Fun * When , by rotating the knob to change the setting , "Fun1" for electronic load mode , "Fun2" battery capacity test mode. Push button start and stop at the buzzer after entering the settings, also set "bEon" buzzer by turning the knob to open or "bEoF" buzzer closes After setting press the button again to start and stop at the tester restart.
Setting Digital Illustration:
II: Electronic Load mode:
1. Turn on the power supply 12V boot into electronic load mode , ensuring in a stopped state ("RUN" does not light, otherwise the press of the start-stop switch to turn off the load ) connected to the power supply under test to the test port input power (P + P - ) , pay attention not to take the wrong polarity !
2. Set current and lower voltage knob , turn the knob to set the value of the current setting position , then press the knob to change the setting digit, digital middle two digits to the right of the indicator and digital indicator VA simultaneously determine the current set position .
3. Press the start-stop switch , load began to run , "RUN" lights , power is applied to the circuit under test is set to enter the discharge current , while the upper display the actual input load voltage , when the voltage drops below the set limit voltage " RUN " LED flashes and short beep alarm buzzer accompanied .
4. The test procedure can be modified at any current , and if you need to modify the lower voltage to stop the load can modify .
Note:When in alarm state , can only transfer a small current does not increase !Tester automatic power-down feature to save enough to save the set parameters and run state, when the state again after power transmission will complete before the power failure and restore data.
3: The battery capacity test mode:
1. The test battery should be fully charged with a special charger !
2. Give the tester is powered into the battery capacity test mode, connect the battery current line to P + P- positive and negative terminals , if you use four-wire clamp test, while the four-wire interface to the positive and negative voltage test fixture is connected to V + V - port.
3. Turn the knob to set the discharge current and discharge voltage ( referring to two specific methods : 2 Description ) , one press after setting the start and stop switch , a battery tester and a first line detection, automatic identification 2-4 line ( 2-wire line identification presentation JS-2,4 identification JS-4, if an error please stop the test and check the wiring ) , then enter the test , if the fault code appears , refer to later explain .
The testing process will round up digital noticeable battery voltage , current , and the current discharge capacity Ah discharge energy Wh, when the discharge end ( battery voltage is below the set voltage ) , the tester displays the data stays in Ah and blink rapidly , with bee shortness buzzer alarm.
5. Press the start and stop at the knob or switch to stop the alarm , you can turn the knob to view the battery discharge data , including discharge capacity Ah, Wh and discharge energy platform voltage V, start-stop button is pressed again , clear the data back to the initial setting interface before testing the next section batteries.
Additional information:
1. Battery test process can adjust the discharge current , if you need to re- adjust the termination voltage , you can pause by pressing the switch at the start and stop the discharge modification ( pause discharge will return to the settings page , this time discharge data is not lost , if necessary , you can long press clears the data until the start-stop switch 0.000Ah).
2. Tester automatic storage can record setting parameters , and record all parameters and status at the end of the test process and test power failure alarm status , re- transmission of all automatically restored.
Fault protection codes and meanings :
Err1: ultra-high capacity test the battery voltage .
Err2: battery voltage is below the set termination voltage is not connected to the battery or the battery is reversed .
Err3: line resistance is too large or the battery can not afford to set the discharge current.
Err4: circuit failure .
Err6: working power is inappropriate , use a standard 12V power supply , and the supply current is not less than 0.5A.
otP: overheating protection.
Ert: temperature sensor failure or the temperature is too low.
ouP: ultra-high voltage electron -load mode .
oPP: under ultra-high power electronic load mode instantly .
You can use standard 220v to 5v wall adapter for isolation. They work mostly >40v dc too.
And take cheap 600W DC-DC converter to step up 12v to 80v and use cheap (~2,5$ 5v 2A) standard wall adapters as many you like, they are all isolated.
Like that robot thing, can't wait till you have it built up. That light on the solar cell reminds me, a few weeks ago I found my old Casio battryless watch with solar panal on the face. I left it lay under my 3way incondecent bulb but it simply refused to energize the cap's. A few days ago it dawned on me that perhaps my 10 wat solar 12 volt home built flashlight may give it the boost it needed. So about 3 minutes under the light, and it became a watch again. Since then I haven't had it outdoors (been snowing here ever since) or under my flashlight, yet it has kept on running wtih no problems. TOday I strapped her on my wrist again, and she still has the proper time and is running strong. Funny how such a short time under the LED could give her such a charge.
+Jerry Ericsson That bluetooth watch I got recently charges really quickly (about 20 mins). Seems a bit quick to me.
+Julian Ilett Ya I got one of those blue tooth watches as well, it charges real quick and goes dead real quick as well. That said, if I leave it plugged in for several hours, it runs much longer. This is one of those with no battery but caps instead and charges via solar. I was just amazed at how quickly it takes a charge from LED rather then incandescent. I held her before the LED for about five minutes and it ran for days on that little charge. I haven't been outdoors for weeks now that we came back from Arizona, so it has zero contact with the bright sun, just artificial light. I was VERY dissapointed with the bluetooth watch. I had one before that was much better but I messed up and plugged the wrong plug in the wrong port and nuked the speaker so I replaced it with a cheaper model,. I have one of those old phone watch that works so much better however it doesn't work the the cell company I use so I can only use the bluetooth and watch videos on it. So small though hard on the eyes. I also have a very old MP4 watch that plays videos very well, again I used the wrong plug to charge it once and it knocked out one side of the audio. Still useful but I miss the stereo audio. That's why I went back to the plain old digital solar watch for awhile. As you may guess, I like watches of all sorts, I probably have nearly 50 odd watches laying around the house. Many of them are the cheap 5 buck china type.
Are these really the edges of the glass of the display that go right to the edge of the wrist band? That display won't survive long (and you may even cut yourself in the process)!
*Switching regulators don't really like to be paralleled* (it's less of an issue with linear regulators), *but you can try* with precautions. Put an output cap on each output (the datasheet for the regulator recommends 4.7µF/16V for the 5V outputs) and than put a small balancing resistor (
yes finally, been checking your channel for a while now hoping for a new mailbag, awesome
11:09 1510 probably means 2015 October or 10th week, since the date code on the led display to the left is 2015 36th week.
Julian, at 11:10, that 1510 is probably a manufacture date code for the PCB, i.e. 2015, week 10.
In case you never found the instructions for the Battery Discharger, hold down the tactile switch and then power up the unit and you'll get two Functions FUN1 and FUN2. Fun2 will log the Wh etc.
Most of the stuff I get from China comes without boxes, like yours. I think they take the items out of the box to reduce postage costs.
Ohhh please do a full review of the DC DC load. I would love to know lots more about that little puppy.
+Dean Greenhough Yes, this thing deserves a proper review.
+Julian Ilett I got that same load a few days ago and played with it today. Seems very useful and accurate. You might take a look at the youtube channel from Voltlog. He made a few videos about it and also did a mod for changing its range down to 20mA to 1 amp which might be more useful for testing batteries.
Yesss, finally. A dc dummy load!!! cheers
+Proyectos LED It looks like quite a useful thing - good for the price.
use filament light bulbs... 😉
You were seen off for that 4-in-1 robot, just found the very same thing for £6 on eBay UK...
That soc is pretty sweet. It's got more available features than a raspberry pi. It's be fun to hack it to do something cool.
Very keen on the parallel charging results. I was one of those guys who learnt the grounding lesson the more "practical" way: pop!
I love you vlogs,I love that you include the web sites so we can find what you have shown us thanks. A lot of other people that try to do what you do,don't give us the web sites,
the little converter would be nice for creating positive and negative 5v rails.
+drkastenbrot That's a good idea.
That electronic load sure is a useful thing to have, can't say that about the toy, though. But, whatever :) The little DC-DC converter can be handy for powering Arduinos or such from your solar without using 7805's, way more efficient. However, I wouldn't recommend powering something sensitive with them, noise may become a problem.
***** There will be noise anyway, even after you add more filtering. You'll just decrease its amplitude, but there's a lot of circuits which are very finicky when it comes to power supplies.
I literally have hundreds of these USB phone chargers. They're free at garage and lawn sales. I glue them together and wire the AC parts together in a case of some kind.
Just wondered if you have published any video showing how to operate the battery tester module in this episode of postbag? Otherwise thanks for all your helpful and interesting reviews.
Hi Julian, Voltlog's channel has a lot of info on this current load including a nice mod. I ordered one today although will build my own down the road with PC data logging, better precision and range (I hope).
You should get a red gelatin film to put over those LED displays...
I do know an AD8522 is a 12-bit Dac, but C3H is what STMicro throws on their accelerometers. Logic dictates its the later :P
ST stps devices are always (power) schottky diodes (maybe it stands for ST power schottky? not sure). You come across them very often in switchmode powersupplies as secondary rectifiers (in particular stps30 and stps40).
+tHaH4x0r Also, i think that extra chip on the wristband is probably the gyro/accel combo.
+tHaH4x0r yes that is a dual schottky diode.
Buy lots of more stuf Julian from China, we all have the benefit from your testing these thing - and thanks for that.
That chip in that smart watch seems to be NXP QN9021 Bluetooth LE system on chip. Not bad actually considering its some cheapee from china. It also seems to have broken out the programing interface (pads labeled SWDIO). Wondering if there is any free toolchain with BTLE stack available for it...
+Julian Ilett is there on eBay small power supply like those that you review that can go from 0 mA not 200mA like here on video and same for voltage from 0v ?
Hey Julian, did you ever use that 120505S isolator? I'm looking at the same thing but I cant find a video if you made one
Power supply requirement : DC12V voltage (actual voltage 11-14V) for the 60w load tester in this video
+Julian ilett try tapping on the watch. I know some of them use a tap as an input.
"A device that mesures your daily job and activity with quality products and services."
You gotta love Chinese manuals!
small sot-23-5 devices in lipo powered devices are always the charger chip, especially here because its an unprotected cell.
+drkastenbrot Probably the DW01
+drkastenbrot Makes perfect sense to me. I made few chargers using QX4054 (LTC4054's knock off) and they are great for small batteries. Due to small package size, it can't dissipate much heat, so I set mine at 200mA
+Julian Ilett I would have guessed the LTC5054-4.2 because its the most used one for low current applications. But those ics are pretty much all the same anyways.
looking forward to the robot dinosaur video !
+w00dyblack Sure until they take over the world.
Well really only during the day when the sun is shining. :)
+Cliff Hartle Until they turn humans into batteries. It can happen, I saw it in a movie.
I love Pigeon English. Those Chinese instructions crack me up.
the tiny motor can drive the gearbox which then move the trex? by solar directly?
how much current is the panel spitting out? it will be amazing to see it built.
Just wondering could you perhaps use the 2 five volters one for positive five volts, the other for negative 5 volts, giving you a power supply for an opamp?
Smart watch uses NXP's (Quintic) QN9021 Cortex-M0 Bluetooth Smart chip and the motion sensor (accelerometer) is LIS3DH from STMicroelectronics.
Model (of a smart watch) TW64S (with a heart rate monitoring function) should have Nordic's nRF51822 BT chip inside.
+Matej Zubčić Excellent info, thanks. It'll be interesting to see what the other watch contains.
+Julian Ilett Since I've been on the hunt for a hackable watch, I've seen most of their insides :)
"Basic" smart watches/bands generally use these ICs: TI CC2541, Dialog DA14580, NXP QN9021, Nordic nRF51822 and a combination of a uC paired with Nordic's nRF8001.
If they have a heart rate monitoring function, they tend to use nRF51822 (more oomph). I hope that I didn't spoil your investigative element of surprise ;)
Will you be doing an in depth review of the electronic Load?
can you do a test on the watch, how long it lasts with bluetooth connected from fully charged.
Hey Julyan, is that bracelet compatible with other android apps such as „sleep as android“?
My god ! I'm impatient for your video for charging 18650 in series with tp4056 !
Lot's of people are asking on internet !
No you can't build it now. You have to video your robot build for us. Or you will go to bed with no tea. Great postbag.
Hi, what size power plug is required. Is it 5.5x2.1mm ?Thanks
Answer my own question - yes. img09.banggood.com/forum_images/20151218/20151218205125_51228.jpg
I was always thinking you cant put dc Power in parallel because one of the sources is doing all the work and the other one doesnt Do any work
That wrist band is soo much a Fitbit knockoff :D
Is the UltraFire battery manufacture paying you to have those in videos? Seem to have seen them in a few including the last video where you said they were fake and didn't hold the capacity listed on them. Just wondering as I see them predominantly displayed with label face up just like and next to your flashlight... err... torch. ;-)
At 17min, you are guessing about a chip. It is possible a PIC micro controller has been implemented. There are literally hundreds upon hundreds of them!
I'm amazed how this got in one piece with such crappy packaging and huge heatsink !!!
I have same one . How to re program it to handle a more extra little more voltage . It's a 30v and I need 10v more test so it can test 40v
is it the polarity of the motor wrong? red wire to negative spot on solapanel (21:47)
Darn...you're right! Well spotted!
Can't wait for the DIno!!!
"Extruded plastic pieces" = sprues
I was looking into nRF51822, I saw your video on the argument but I want to program it with a generic stm32 board.
It should be really fun to find an exact watch like this with a nordic chip and be actually able to reprogram it :)
you said you have another one on the way, let's hope it has an nRF :D
i got both the lcd 150w and that unit in the video but mine didnt have the stand offs
Hey, I love the fact that you talk about how the technology works and works together. I'm still a bit of a newbie though. Do you know of a channel/source where they do a walk through on a comprehensible circuit? Now I know how switches and resistors and capacitors work, so I don't need the absolute basics. Advanced newbie... showing how each part works and works together. Any suggestions. Anyone?
Has a torch on the table, uses a second one to look at things. :)
1510 should be the datecode, 2015 10th week ?
There's a definite lack of info with Bang Good.
christmas at last,good work
The bracelet looks a bit like my Vidonn X6 :)
At around 8min Julian said...what we in IT call, RTFM or "read the fu****g manual".
Somebody should make a list of silly customs descriptions.
Simontay,I no what a dummy load for test c.b. radio equipment ,but what are talking about, I think I may want to get that power supply,now where to buy a power supply big enough to run that thing,anyone.
Whenever Julian uploads a Postbag video my day gets 112% better.
Hey Mate loved the Vid! Keep up the good work!!
Week 10, 2015. Probably.
:12 I thought it said "dark necessities" ;(
The watch seems like a clone of the Fitbit.
love ur videos, i recently subscribed so was watching ur very old power bank reviews, i recently ordered a single cell power bank box and on opening it i saw a chip labelled VD4308 and on second line 435L3Z, any datasheet on this or any clue if it has short circuit protection or no because other than this chip it just has 3 capacitors, 1 resistor and 2 indicator LEDs
You should make a p.o. box where users can send stuff from china to and you do the unboxing by not knowing whats inside
Hmmm, nothing could possibly go wrong with that idea! ;-)
FlyingShotsman
i thought it was a good idea lol :D
+FlyingShotsman aaaaand its an electronic clock with 2 kilos of c4 behind it...
Yikes, I wasn't suggesting anyone would blow the man up. I don't think the name Banggood is meant to be taken literally!
+FlyingShotsman I already made eevblog day with chinese crap.
I've posted a video showing how to use the zpb30a constant current load tester on my channel. Just search youtube for zpb30a
Smart Bracelet app: movnow plus on Android play has 2,776 people giving 1 star. :(
great
Love your video's, keep it up :D
Isn't that the way it goes Julian. When you are outside and trying to
work with your solar panels, there are too many clouds. Then when
indoors no clouds and the sun comes in washing out a LED display. Yeah,
that's typical. When in the garden, there is a drought, then washing your car or hang clothes on the line outside, then it rains. Welcome to the pesky side of reality.
The pedometer watch;
feet = steps
location pointer = distance
fire = calories burned
moon = sleep time a-la sleep monitor
yay
"9, 0, 2, 1..."
"0!"
"3, 8, 5, N, Y."
:'(
Wouldn’t be logical to connect couple of amp/volt meters while you are "testing" these modules? At the risk of insulting you, do you know Ohm's law? It seems to me you are taking "short" cuts and rushing through, just to post a video!
But you can just use one tp4056 with two 18650s right?
like here: th-cam.com/video/Ze2fC6w9r7M/w-d-xo.html
+Tetramorium No problem if the cells are in parallel - if they're in series you've got to be careful.
Just be careful of these cheap Chineseium gadgets especially the app might try and steal personal data and GPS location lol
360p gang
love ur videos, i recently subscribed so was watching ur very old power bank reviews, i recently ordered a single cell power bank box and on opening it i saw a chip labelled VD4308 and on second line 435L3Z, any datasheet on this or any clue if it has short circuit protection or no because other than this chip it just has 3 capacitors, 1 resistor, 2 indicator LEDs and an inductor