Hi Leon!!😀😀 If the vent you made doesn't vent as well as it should. We used to take a hacksaw and cut a couple small grooves lengthwise about as deep as the threads. It usually works well after we did it. Take care my friend. 😀😀
PTO side discoloration is likely due to a rough bearing. I've seen those saws break the crankshaft flush with the seal b/c of that. As for the vent it's about 1 1/2" long with 2 screws in it, 1 near where the vent barb seats & another near the top. That vent goes behind the A/F on the left side & goes thru a hole toward the cyl. Got a lot of experience with these.
Thank you for that update Leon! Well I guess looks can be deceiving. It looked good it sounded good but as you said, it obviously wasn't good. Interesting nevertheless. I'm glad you took it up to firewood hill to test. That saw has been a project for a little over a year I suppose. I do still have the original jug and scored piston that was in it when I bought it. You think maybe a new piston and rings in the old jug would work if it isn't in too bad a condition? I dunno, I'm just reaching here. I appreciate all your effort big guy! Always looking forward to your repair vids bro.
Hello, Leon. I think you'll get a lot of mileage out of your MityVac. Mine pretty much paid for itself when it found its first leak! I use it both before and after most rebuilds to possibly identify why a top end toasted pre-teardown and I always test the case integrity after any work there before bolting much more to it. That said, it seems in the vid that you're only doing a pressure test. While useful in its own right, it is not a definitive test for crank seals as pressure can often mask a vacuum leak at a seal by simply closing what could essentially be acting like a one-way valve that only opens under vacuum but closes under pressure. I've found most times when a case holds pressure but not vacuum there will be a leaking crank seal. I would run a vac test on that case and expect it to hold 12 inHG of vacuum indefinitely for a completely tight case. If it doesn't, use very low pressure to check the seals with soapy water..., just enough to blow some bubbles. Too much pressure could close the leak. Rotate the crank while viewing the gauge. It will raise and lower in either vac or pressure mode but should always return to the original position if there are no leaks. You can also use a little grease or thicker oil around the seals during a vac test to see if it gets drawn past the seal or actually stops a leak if pressure doesn't definitively reveal anything. Just went through this whole routine with a very nice SXL-AO that was driving me nuts. Took some time, but I eventually identified the pto seal as the culprit. Held 10lbs of pressure overnight but would not hold vac for even 20~30 seconds. BTW, love the informative videos as I delve further and further into the world of Homelite. Most important thing I've learned so far is the little detail about left hand threads for a 150 flywheel! LOL Keep up the great work. I for one appreciate it very, very much. Thank you.
Sounds like low compression. Any old saw is likely to have a leak. Carb could have debris in it. Tank vent could be plugged, fuel filter could be clogged. Make sure you pump it up with plenty of pressure. Some leaks will only be evident under load. As long as it’s sealed, gets fuel, has spark, has good compression, it should run like normal.
Good ideas, but none are the case here. The compression is 150psi, filter is new, carb is spotless...we'll see if she runs better the next time out. I'm thinking the aftermarket tank vent might have been distorting the filter base enough to mess with that screwy choke setup or jamming up the linkage not allowing it to release. There was literally no good place for it in this airbox! It may not have been opening all the way.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair have to run it under the cylinder cover. Could be the carb. if it bogs under load it’s probably too fat. Revs too much it’s lean. What did the plug show?
With pressure testing through the sparkplug hole how would that pressure get past the rings to test the crank seals wouldn't you have to make an adapter for the carb for the pressure tester with the piston ak the way up to pressurize the case or am I thinking wrong on that. Im no professional by no means. Lol
Was it a compression issue. One I acquired did the same symptoms so I took the muffler off to clean it and seen scoring. I rebuilt it and she’s a screamer again. I also did a base gasket delete but still had .030 squish so I took some material off the jug and got it down to .019 which put me at 165psi compression
No, the compression is good. I hope to swap out the cylinder for an OEM model though and see if the rumors of incorrect port timing on the aftermarket cylinders is true.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair I see that your previous comment was right. What am jug was on it? I wonder if taking material off of mine made it run better. I never ran it before I did the gasket delete so I guess I’ll never know
Hi Leon!!😀😀
If the vent you made doesn't vent as well as it should. We used to take a hacksaw and cut a couple small grooves lengthwise about as deep as the threads. It usually works well after we did it.
Take care my friend. 😀😀
Good call, I'll remember that trick! Thanks!
I like that tip also, thanks Al!
@@TheCrittercam001 :) Your welcome sir!!😀😀
PTO side discoloration is likely due to a rough bearing. I've seen those saws break the crankshaft flush with the seal b/c of that. As for the vent it's about 1 1/2" long with 2 screws in it, 1 near where the vent barb seats & another near the top. That vent goes behind the A/F on the left side & goes thru a hole toward the cyl. Got a lot of experience with these.
Thank you for that update Leon! Well I guess looks can be deceiving. It looked good it sounded good but as you said, it obviously wasn't good. Interesting nevertheless. I'm glad you took it up to firewood hill to test. That saw has been a project for a little over a year I suppose. I do still have the original jug and scored piston that was in it when I bought it. You think maybe a new piston and rings in the old jug would work if it isn't in too bad a condition? I dunno, I'm just reaching here. I appreciate all your effort big guy! Always looking forward to your repair vids bro.
Hello, Leon. I think you'll get a lot of mileage out of your MityVac. Mine pretty much paid for itself when it found its first leak! I use it both before and after most rebuilds to possibly identify why a top end toasted pre-teardown and I always test the case integrity after any work there before bolting much more to it. That said, it seems in the vid that you're only doing a pressure test. While useful in its own right, it is not a definitive test for crank seals as pressure can often mask a vacuum leak at a seal by simply closing what could essentially be acting like a one-way valve that only opens under vacuum but closes under pressure. I've found most times when a case holds pressure but not vacuum there will be a leaking crank seal. I would run a vac test on that case and expect it to hold 12 inHG of vacuum indefinitely for a completely tight case. If it doesn't, use very low pressure to check the seals with soapy water..., just enough to blow some bubbles. Too much pressure could close the leak. Rotate the crank while viewing the gauge. It will raise and lower in either vac or pressure mode but should always return to the original position if there are no leaks. You can also use a little grease or thicker oil around the seals during a vac test to see if it gets drawn past the seal or actually stops a leak if pressure doesn't definitively reveal anything. Just went through this whole routine with a very nice SXL-AO that was driving me nuts. Took some time, but I eventually identified the pto seal as the culprit. Held 10lbs of pressure overnight but would not hold vac for even 20~30 seconds. BTW, love the informative videos as I delve further and further into the world of Homelite. Most important thing I've learned so far is the little detail about left hand threads for a 150 flywheel! LOL Keep up the great work. I for one appreciate it very, very much. Thank you.
Thanks for the tips!
Sounds like low compression. Any old saw is likely to have a leak. Carb could have debris in it. Tank vent could be plugged, fuel filter could be clogged. Make sure you pump it up with plenty of pressure. Some leaks will only be evident under load. As long as it’s sealed, gets fuel, has spark, has good compression, it should run like normal.
Good ideas, but none are the case here. The compression is 150psi, filter is new, carb is spotless...we'll see if she runs better the next time out. I'm thinking the aftermarket tank vent might have been distorting the filter base enough to mess with that screwy choke setup or jamming up the linkage not allowing it to release. There was literally no good place for it in this airbox! It may not have been opening all the way.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair have to run it under the cylinder cover. Could be the carb. if it bogs under load it’s probably too fat. Revs too much it’s lean. What did the plug show?
Toss that junk in the trash. Those saws aren’t worth touching.
Saw Greater what???? 028 is one of the best firewood saws there is. Let me know when u throw some in the garbage I’ll be over to get them
the vent can be a pain psi test an vac you had a good look at this and that test cuts now it should rip
Hello sir, I was wondering if I could chat with you sometime. I recently purchased a 028 AV SUPER. And have a question maybe you could answer?
With pressure testing through the sparkplug hole how would that pressure get past the rings to test the crank seals wouldn't you have to make an adapter for the carb for the pressure tester with the piston ak the way up to pressurize the case or am I thinking wrong on that. Im no professional by no means. Lol
Or pull the carb and go straight into the impulse port to pressure test the block and crank seals?
Was it a compression issue. One I acquired did the same symptoms so I took the muffler off to clean it and seen scoring. I rebuilt it and she’s a screamer again. I also did a base gasket delete but still had .030 squish so I took some material off the jug and got it down to .019 which put me at 165psi compression
No, the compression is good. I hope to swap out the cylinder for an OEM model though and see if the rumors of incorrect port timing on the aftermarket cylinders is true.
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair I also had one that the fuel nipple was barely cracked that took me about 6 times tearing it apart to find
@@kylebrown8891 check out my newest video....she is finally fixed!
Leon's Chainsaw Parts & Repair I see that your previous comment was right. What am jug was on it? I wonder if taking material off of mine made it run better. I never ran it before I did the gasket delete so I guess I’ll never know
Hi Leon Just wanted to ask you if you wanted a Homelite 550 for parts
Sure...shoot me an email and we can work out the details! support@leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com
Great will get back to you as I get a call from the owner. needes a CYL.& piston
damnit Lilly!! :D :D