Hi i have i20 diesel there is engine greesy oil type on radiator cap and there are no bubbles formation in radiator top in collant!! I don’t why it’s happening and what to do now?
never anymore gunk on rad cap? i've flushed out my rad a good 10-15 times now and still get build up on the cap. thinking i'm going to reverse flush the whole system and clean out the coolant passages on the intake manifold when i go to do the top swap
Was u getting air locks ? Ant fluid into overflow ? I've had hg replaced under 2 years I had new rad therm smd coolant sensor . Recent new cap not yet a pump . Colour is discoloured not ya sweet smell you'd usually get . I was thinking 2 things rad has shit in it from.previ98s issues . Or b it's water pump
Run a rust remover through it and flush it once a week during the summer of course so it’s just water you are flushing it’s good practice to replace all the hoses cause a lot of that build up gets stuck in there and if you still have a problem replace the radiator and water pump (leave rust remover in there for at least two hours) let it run the whole time drive around town two.
I think it needs a strong flush first, then see what happens. What's it look like underneath the oil cap? That's a cool spot that tends to accumulate mayo pretty quick. Probably the first thing to do if you suspect an internal coolant leak is to collect an oil sample and send it off to be analyzed. No sense in ripping off an intake for no reason. IF an intake gasket is leaking, my thoughts are that it would try to leak into the oil before allowing oil into the coolant, by virtue of the fact that coolant is under 16lbs of pressure and oil is not. Good luck.
Same problem with my 1997 Tacoma. Never used stop leak and it’s the original radiator. My mechanic buddy said he thinks someone has put just water in without antifreeze and it rusted the cast iron block. I flushed and backwashes the whole thing and a year later it was back. My friend says the only way to fix is to get the block cleaned out. 🤬
I did put some K seal in it seems for now it has fixed the issue. I checked it afterwards with a combustion gas detecting kit and none were found. th-cam.com/video/yH-82wL-VeA/w-d-xo.html
@@chewy3707 once the engine is heated up there will be pressure. On a cold engine I squeeze the upper radiator hose and see how much it crushes. I then start it up to see if it gets pressurized. It shouldn’t until the engine gets warm.
@@mjmcomputersso if theres pressure in the top hose before it warms up then that means it's a bad head gasket? Did you do a block test, if so what were your results?
Check your weep hole on your waterpump. Tests may indicate a waterpump is working, however, as the seals wear, youll lose antifreeze and it will evapotate as is weeps, not leaving any apparent evidence. A closer inspection of that will determine. It may only leak out the weep hole slightly butbalong long trips may add up to alot of coolant loss. Park in a dry parking spot, and look what you have when you come out of the liquor store, and then smell the fluid on the ground. If it smells like antifreeze and its dead center of the front of the motor, then , the seals on your waterpump is shot. Hopefully you dont jave a bad head gasket and thats whats causing all the mayhem. ..or something,....
@@mjmcomputers I have a 1990 foxbody rn and I have the same issue rusty radiator and coolant loss but no leaks for me. I've refilled it again and saw bubbles in the radiator I'm thinking it's the head gasket also
If you added fresh or full strength (concentrate undiluted) coolant this could cause a reaction and release the rust and sludge built up over the years. I recommend flushing the system at least 2 times to get it good and clean. Use an actual antifreeze tester and make sure the strength of the coolant is proper for your area. If it was a head gasket then most likely you would see bubbles in the fill spout of the radiator when running the engine at higher rpms. Sometimes this will help you find manifold gasket leaks too.
My 69 dodge had that frothy buildup on the cap and breather, and it was solved by placing a higher temp thermostat into the block, rather than the NO thermostat it was styling when I bought it. Not sure if that's anything like your issue.
Wow, did your engine have any head gasket issues without a thermostat? And did putting in a thermostat impact the vehicle’s performance at all? I also have this frothy stuff in my coolant overflow and in bits of the radiator. No thermostat at all!
@@mjmcomputers I have the same issue with a 2004 Buick Rendezvous and it is a lot worse than your car. This SUV literally had blocked hoses caked up and it looks like the same color as yours brownish orangeish sludge. I think it is mixed coolants but I have done any tests yet. I have never seen a headgasket create so much sludge like in my case. Also my hoses do get pressurized. I have one of those fume detector kits to check for a head gasket leak but I would only use that as a second diagnosis confirming the first which would be a mechanical test for pressure loss some where if it were a head gasket or any other cooling passage. You can build an adapter to fit a leak down tester if you have one or just use your compressor hose and try looking for a leak some where you just would have to tap into your cooling system some how.
Someone has mixed antifreeze in the past.All antifreeze is not compatible with each other. I did the same thing years ago. Straight up looked like someone poured brown mud in my radiator!
... don't tell me I'm wrong I do it all the time to new projects this is a gm thing when they sit. Commonly mistaken for block seal, which has made me alot of money. Step one: drain the radiator by removing the bottom hose from the water pump side Step 2. Remove top hose from radiator side of hose Step 3: turn your garden hose on and stick It in the rubber top radiator hose till it's pretty much on the thermostat Step 4. Start the vehicle Step 5. Let the vehicle idle, don't rev it up like your a child you're only running off hose pressure, water should pump out the bottom of water pump. Step 6. Let vehicle idle for how ever long it takes for the water to come out clean Step 7. Remove heater hoses all together from engine (tie back to fenderwell securely. Step 8. Loop pressure and return nipples on water pump and intake (preferably new hose, at least flow boiling water through hose a few times before using if used) Step 9. (Especially daily drivers , heres ur chance lol) refill radiator with TAP WATER & drive daily. Step 10. Drain radiator by pitcock Then close pitcock every night, I let mine stay open all night and close in the morning Step 11. Tell me I'm full of pickle plamento loaf and bologna because your waters still rusty as shit when you fill it up and drain it the next day Step 12. Keep repeating process until water is clear Daily or satisfactory Step 13. Refill radiator with DISTILLED WATER! (Will not calcify nor rust) and mix in 1/8th to 1/4 Quart of motor oil when filling with distilled water REMEMBER TO KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE TEMP GAUGE! It'll run a lil hotter than usual, some cooler. Just don't let it get too hot. Step 14. Check help section for replacement pitcock Step 15. Do this for 3 nights, less generous with oil each night. You add the oil to lubricate the internals of the water pump, and also coat the casting with a rust prevention deeply because of heat transfer and density. Step 16. Flush engine block and system again until clear (enough) Step 17: refill with desired antifreeze or distilled water and NEVER CONTAMINATE WITH NORMAL WATER AGAIN OR IT WAS ALL WORTHLESS. Install new heater core, thermostat, possibly water pump, and all hoses You'll have engine water fit for Jesus himself and a longer lasting, better flowing engine.
I have a 94 GMC 4.3liter that has done this also. My oil is clean too so I appreciate you making this video
Hi i have i20 diesel there is engine greesy oil type on radiator cap and there are no bubbles formation in radiator top in collant!!
I don’t why it’s happening and what to do now?
Did somebody k seal into this radiator? It has a copper like appearance.
Sludge blocked my core...reversed cleaned out entire system...works GREAT now
never anymore gunk on rad cap? i've flushed out my rad a good 10-15 times now and still get build up on the cap. thinking i'm going to reverse flush the whole system and clean out the coolant passages on the intake manifold when i go to do the top swap
@@prestonboling1427 that will only help you
@@prestonboling1427 its old bars leak.. prior to you owning the vehicle
@@eujcissna that's what i was thinking... either that or they mixed in the green coolant in with the dexcool
Was u getting air locks ? Ant fluid into overflow ? I've had hg replaced under 2 years I had new rad therm smd coolant sensor . Recent new cap not yet a pump . Colour is discoloured not ya sweet smell you'd usually get . I was thinking 2 things rad has shit in it from.previ98s issues . Or b it's water pump
Hello guys I have the same problem with my 1992 caprice ; and the radiator is new.... what is the solution
Your adding water instead of coolant!
Run a rust remover through it and flush it once a week during the summer of course so it’s just water you are flushing it’s good practice to replace all the hoses cause a lot of that build up gets stuck in there and if you still have a problem replace the radiator and water pump (leave rust remover in there for at least two hours) let it run the whole time drive around town two.
Appears it came from a leaking head gasket. Building a engine for the truck and I’ll get the radiator flushed.
@@mjmcomputers thanks for the update That’s good to know!
Break down of antifreeze, no longer hinders corrosion, and may end up clogging heater core
Pretty sure it was a leaking head gasket.
I think it needs a strong flush first, then see what happens. What's it look like underneath the oil cap? That's a cool spot that tends to accumulate mayo pretty quick. Probably the first thing to do if you suspect an internal coolant leak is to collect an oil sample and send it off to be analyzed. No sense in ripping off an intake for no reason. IF an intake gasket is leaking, my thoughts are that it would try to leak into the oil before allowing oil into the coolant, by virtue of the fact that coolant is under 16lbs of pressure and oil is not. Good luck.
Yeah I’m going to start with a flush and just watch it. The oil cap is clean no condensation or milkiness.
Did you figure out what it was? Did the flush fix the issue? I have the same problem.
I had the exact same thing on my coolant tank cap. what's that!?!?
Same problem with my 1997 Tacoma. Never used stop leak and it’s the original radiator. My mechanic buddy said he thinks someone has put just water in without antifreeze and it rusted the cast iron block. I flushed and backwashes the whole thing and a year later it was back. My friend says the only way to fix is to get the block cleaned out. 🤬
there,s quite a few cleaners on the market that claim to clean this stuff up without taking things apart.
Thought you had the answer. That’s what going on with my old Chevy Lumina
How did you determine it's a bad head gasket? Combustion gas detecting kit? My 82 k5's fluid used to get rusty pretty fast.
It was pressurizing the coolant system as soon as you started it up.
I did put some K seal in it seems for now it has fixed the issue. I checked it afterwards with a combustion gas detecting kit and none were found. th-cam.com/video/yH-82wL-VeA/w-d-xo.html
@@mjmcomputers so it was putting pressure does that mean when I open my coolant cap it shouldn’t have pressure when I open it
@@chewy3707 once the engine is heated up there will be pressure. On a cold engine I squeeze the upper radiator hose and see how much it crushes. I then start it up to see if it gets pressurized. It shouldn’t until the engine gets warm.
@@mjmcomputersso if theres pressure in the top hose before it warms up then that means it's a bad head gasket? Did you do a block test, if so what were your results?
Check your weep hole on your waterpump. Tests may indicate a waterpump is working, however, as the seals wear, youll lose antifreeze and it will evapotate as is weeps, not leaving any apparent evidence. A closer inspection of that will determine. It may only leak out the weep hole slightly butbalong long trips may add up to alot of coolant loss. Park in a dry parking spot, and look what you have when you come out of the liquor store, and then smell the fluid on the ground.
If it smells like antifreeze and its dead center of the front of the motor, then , the seals on your waterpump is shot. Hopefully you dont jave a bad head gasket and thats whats causing all the mayhem.
..or something,....
Water pump is good.
Did u work out what the problem was in the end?
head gasket failure
@@mjmcomputers I have a 1990 foxbody rn and I have the same issue rusty radiator and coolant loss but no leaks for me. I've refilled it again and saw bubbles in the radiator I'm thinking it's the head gasket also
i honestly feel like this is from someone putting a stop leak mix in the cooling system before
Bro is this it? Cause I did this
If you added fresh or full strength (concentrate undiluted) coolant this could cause a reaction and release the rust and sludge built up over the years. I recommend flushing the system at least 2 times to get it good and clean. Use an actual antifreeze tester and make sure the strength of the coolant is proper for your area. If it was a head gasket then most likely you would see bubbles in the fill spout of the radiator when running the engine at higher rpms. Sometimes this will help you find manifold gasket leaks too.
I’m running a 50/50 mixture of antifreeze and distilled water. I’ll flush it and we will see if it stays clean.
@@mjmcomputersdid it stay clean?
Same thing recently happened with my k 1500 1999 Sierra, thanks for the advice
It looks like old sealant that was put in years ago ?
We rebuilt it years ago and when I got it running again it had less than 10,000 miles on it. The bars leak is the first sealant it’s had.
My 69 dodge had that frothy buildup on the cap and breather, and it was solved by placing a higher temp thermostat into the block, rather than the NO thermostat it was styling when I bought it. Not sure if that's anything like your issue.
I put a new thermostat in it when I put it back on the road but it could be sticking open. When I flush it I may pull the thermostat and check it.
Wow, did your engine have any head gasket issues without a thermostat? And did putting in a thermostat impact the vehicle’s performance at all? I also have this frothy stuff in my coolant overflow and in bits of the radiator. No thermostat at all!
I have that stuff in my coolant tank also, its from using Dexccool antifreeze.
No dexcool on this one.
@@mjmcomputers yeah its not always dexcool
@@mjmcomputers I have the same issue with a 2004 Buick Rendezvous and it is a lot worse than your car. This SUV literally had blocked hoses caked up and it looks like the same color as yours brownish orangeish sludge. I think it is mixed coolants but I have done any tests yet. I have never seen a headgasket create so much sludge like in my case. Also my hoses do get pressurized.
I have one of those fume detector kits to check for a head gasket leak but I would only use that as a second diagnosis confirming the first which would be a mechanical test for pressure loss some where if it were a head gasket or any other cooling passage. You can build an adapter to fit a leak down tester if you have one or just use your compressor hose and try looking for a leak some where you just would have to tap into your cooling system some how.
That makes sense to me because I changed to Dex cool and now I have this going on
@@chriswalker6776 same
Did you ever figure it out?
Transmission fluid. Check your transmission line that goes to your radiator.
It was a blown head gasket leaking combustion gasses into the radiator.
@@mjmcomputers have the same problem, would a head gasket sealer help?
I have this same issue will a block tester detect this issue?
Did you replace head gasket
no I have not, will probably do an engine swap.
What was the outcome?
Pretty sure it was a slight head gasket leak. Stop leak seems to have stopped it but I’m building a 350 to replace the 305.
Same with me doodge ram 2015 it's looks like mud/sand and its smells like fish 😷
SAME. Did you figure out why?
Someone has mixed antifreeze in the past.All antifreeze is not compatible with each other. I did the same thing years ago. Straight up looked like someone poured brown mud in my radiator!
That looks to me like your Stop Leak
It’s possible but it does have a blown head gasket so I think it’s combustion gasses gunk.
Try flushing the radiator. If it comes back it might be a head gasket. Check the oil
no coolant in the oil but it is a bad head gasket.
@mjmcomputers how did you verify it was the head gasket?
@@mjmcomputers How did you verify bad head gasket? Thanks
That's the Bars Stop Leak you put in there...
Some of it could be but it came back after a coolant flush, it’s from exhaust in the coolant from a failed head gasket.
@@mjmcomputers Word
Different coolant mixed into radiator that's all it is
Only green coolant and distilled water in this one.
@@mjmcomputers hmmm my jeep had this same issue and it was because previous owner used different coolants.
Rad and engine full flush 4 times at lest .take temp gage out the run car with water.let cool .flush it out.do it over and over
It was a bad head gasket.
@@mjmcomputers sorry to here that . they have a head gasket sealer .try it cant hurt
Also how did u find out it was head gasket
You guys hear a rooster to right?
Probably several of them crowing. They always seem to find me when I’m filming.
Lol Awesome thanks for the video my rad has sludge in it just had it flushed couple weeks ago.
I fixed it cleaned the cap and in side the hose and got the light to stop
... don't tell me I'm wrong I do it all the time to new projects this is a gm thing when they sit.
Commonly mistaken for block seal, which has made me alot of money.
Step one: drain the radiator by removing the bottom hose from the water pump side
Step 2. Remove top hose from radiator side of hose
Step 3: turn your garden hose on and stick It in the rubber top radiator hose till it's pretty much on the thermostat
Step 4. Start the vehicle
Step 5. Let the vehicle idle, don't rev it up like your a child you're only running off hose pressure, water should pump out the bottom of water pump.
Step 6. Let vehicle idle for how ever long it takes for the water to come out clean
Step 7. Remove heater hoses all together from engine (tie back to fenderwell securely.
Step 8. Loop pressure and return nipples on water pump and intake (preferably new hose, at least flow boiling water through hose a few times before using if used)
Step 9. (Especially daily drivers , heres ur chance lol) refill radiator with TAP WATER & drive daily.
Step 10. Drain radiator by pitcock Then close pitcock every night, I let mine stay open all night and close in the morning
Step 11. Tell me I'm full of pickle plamento loaf and bologna because your waters still rusty as shit when you fill it up and drain it the next day
Step 12. Keep repeating process until water is clear Daily or satisfactory
Step 13. Refill radiator with DISTILLED WATER! (Will not calcify nor rust) and mix in 1/8th to 1/4 Quart of motor oil when filling with distilled water REMEMBER TO KEEP YOUR EYE ON THE TEMP GAUGE! It'll run a lil hotter than usual, some cooler. Just don't let it get too hot.
Step 14. Check help section for replacement pitcock
Step 15. Do this for 3 nights, less generous with oil each night. You add the oil to lubricate the internals of the water pump, and also coat the casting with a rust prevention deeply because of heat transfer and density.
Step 16. Flush engine block and system again until clear (enough)
Step 17: refill with desired antifreeze or distilled water and NEVER CONTAMINATE WITH NORMAL WATER AGAIN OR IT WAS ALL WORTHLESS. Install new heater core, thermostat, possibly water pump, and all hoses
You'll have engine water fit for Jesus himself and a longer lasting, better flowing engine.
OK if you have a gauge lol mines in garage I think my system needs a good flush as I've had hg done new rad to
2nd