I watched this on a mid-ride break. When Neil said something about finding a rag by the side of the road I thought, "Dream on, that never happens." On my way back, low and behold, a rag by the side of the road!
T-9 really takes just as long as Squirt to dry (overnight), but it does work as a great balance between keeping dirt off the chain and not drying out too quick like other dry/wax lubes.
I use T9. Works great. It is in fact a wax and the instructions stress the need to let it dry before use. The distillate carrier evaporates leaving the wax and active coating. If you lube and go the T9 just gets thrown off, leaving you with a raw chain. Boeshield T9 is also marketed separately as a rust inhibitor. I use it on stainless steel in a marine environment. It is effective for almost a year between coatings. Lately I’ve been using GRAPHENLube. It lasts 3-4x longer than T9. Not sure it’s worth the price, but it works and it lasts.
I remove the factory oil, great at preserving the chain but it gets nasty quickly. Drip wax here. Doesn't matter what you use just USE IT and you will save your wallet. Good video thanks 👍
agreed. factory grease is for packing and shipping, not riding. it just attracts dirt. get rid of it and put what really belongs on a chain; a high quality lube.
I don't remove the factory lube because It wears out after 300km and then I just use squit, and I never degrease the chain, it stays clean and no build up, so easy 🤣
Interesting, that's why it must not work well on a dirty chain. I love it for dry conditions but have distinctly noticed that it does not work when I apply it to a dirty chain. Thanks for the heads up.
I'm still experimenting. I've used triflow. My brother suggested white lightning. Here in the Gila (I live in Silver City, NM) during the dry hot summers its seems to work ok. This winter I went back to triflow because when its below freezing I found the wax got to sticky and free wheeling the crank was slow. This was a first for me. I'm familiar with the Pedro's but never heard of the other lubes, so thank you for this video. I really enjoy this channel. Do take care, and be safe. 😁
I use a baby wipe to clean my chain... fold it in half, fold again, and one more time.... its moist enough to remove the grime and grit.. unfold, and use another section, repeat until the baby wipe is black and the drive train is clean enough to lube.. I also clean the jockey wheels and chain ring, then once over the cassette... they are my daily cleaner, plus you already pack them for trips anyway 👍
Hey Neil! I think you’re missing out on all-wax lubes ;) (Silca Super Secret, Molten Speed Wax, and some others that depend on a hyper-clean chain and stripped factory grease, unlike Smoove or Squirt). While the initial setup is tedious (degreasing, mineral spirits, alcohol), some like Silca Super Secret do not even require melting the wax in a crockpot. In dry conditions especially, they are unrivaled and require no cleaning, just the occasional top-up (no need to remove the chain). I think they entirely replace dry Teflon lubes, as they truly attract no dirt and often require no cleaning at all.
I really love Dumonde Tech as well! I recommend it to everyone I ride with who asks! I use the original (green) formula during the winter and then the light (yellow) formula during the summer. Lasts a long time and I pretty much never have a squeaky chain. It does get a bit grimy but I've noticed that generally, the rollers stay very clean which is where it counts. Only downside I have found is that my partner HATES its smell haha!
If you remove all that oil from new chain with some benzin an white spirits and then apply Squirt lube. It will attract way less dirt and you don't need to wait for it to dry. I had it for 3 years now and it's best thing ever!
Pedros Chainj is almost magical in one way. If you apply it on a clean dry chain just one drop each roller it totally stay inside even after a short ride. The Chain is still bone dry. After a while it will come out a bit but the oil does very good in dry dusty conditions. It supposed to also hold up in some rain but I hadnt had the chance to try this out yet. I thinks its amazing and very underrated.
When I can get it, off shore drilling lube(Purple Extreme). In the mean time, the always available Banana Laffy Taffy(Dumonde Tech Lite). They can be used interchangeably, without a blink.
I use silicone oil, i drip it in to the chain, wipe off the excess, let dry over night it will evaporate and leave an invisible film, it doesn’t attract dust and you can use it as often as you want.
Dupont Chain Saver by the quart. Used it on my motorcycle for years. Also used the T9 for a couple of years. The wear and tear differences over time are insignificant at best.
Glad to see you aren't particularly recommending those wax based lubes. All the bike shops seem to push them, and I've just found they make your whole drive train a waxy, dirt caked, hard to clean mess. Even degreasers hardly work on removing them. Like you, I'm a fan of Dumonde lubes. I felt you may be spending too much time cleaning and lubing your chain. Three times a day? Really? Even on long bikepacks and road tours I've never found that to be necessary. Also, I used to clean bike chains with dish soap, as you suggest. Based on almost nothing, I decided that was likely to leave a detergent residue on the chain. One of my preferred methods is WD-40, which acts as a solvent, and then wiping the chain with a rag. That way I know I'm not going to end up with stiff links.
These are the same dropper bottles as used in the ultralight backpacking world for water treatment. Many cottage industry backpacking companies also sell them.
I've been using maxima wax. Wax doesn't attract dirt, is waterproof, and doesn't make my chain an oily dirty mess of I need to work on my bike while riding. It's a bit more challenging to apply but I don't do a full clean each application. Wax is also supposed to be the best for chain longevity according to some of the testing I have looked into. I used to only use wet lube that wasn't overly sticky but switched to wax two years ago.
00:35 - I think the factory-applied lubrication is just a temporary coating to keep a freshy-machined, unused chain rust-free while it's sitting on a shelf in a shop. I don't think it's a 'working' lube as such; it's meant for static, long-term storage. Once out of the packet and on your bike, the chain needs something intended for active use, because the factory coating probably won't give the right kind of protection when things start moving. That means (ideally) stripping off the protective stuff and getting the chain lubricated with a more suitable substance. I'm based in the gloomy north of England, where the weather's always lousy. I clean my chain with ordinary white-spirit (paintbrush cleaner) and a rag once a week, and with a cheap (£6) rotating-brush automatic chain-cleaning tool maybe once a month. I ride on the road, not on mountain trails. For many years I just used fresh motor oil (10-40) for lubrication. It worked perfectly well. That'll annoy a lot of bike people, gear fanatics and accessory manufacturers, but that's been my experience. I'm currently trying a 'proper' wet lube (proper, but cheap - £3.00); I'll report back in 15 years or so to let you know how it's working... 🤭 Wet lube (or motor oil) will cling to anything and find its way in and around the chain's original factory coating, assuming you don't bother to remove it. It's there when it's needed; but a 'dry' lubrication system should probably be applied to a chain that's been completely degreased. That's just my opinion. I've never used a 'dry' lube or a ceramic one. Chains are tough, so almost anything goes. My bike's cheap [£130 new] and just a basic workhorse; it's 22 years old. I only use the very cheapest components, such as chains for £3.99, chainwheels for £15, and cassettes for £6. Wet lubes gather dust, create 'goo', and form a fine grinding paste which wears out moving parts. Car motor oil, though, is designed expressly to resist such damage in metal-to-metal contact points, which is why [in my experience] the gritty grinding goo doesn't seem to be much of a problem on a bike chain. I should mention here that on my bike the chainwheel is an old-school (i.e. crude, cheap, heavy) steel one, and it's laughed at such grinding paste for 22 years. The way my bike gets used, a lightweight aluminium chainring would probably have been worn away to nothing in a year or two. I've only bought three chains in over 50,000 miles of riding. I've just ordered a new chainwheel because the steel one's teeth are now very sharp indeed and the chain's starting to jump under pressure. I'm still using the original 7-speed rear cassette, though. But hey, that's just me. I'm not a performance fanatic. I don't care about weight or watts or efficiency. My bike's covered in homemade racks and panniers and weighs 25 kg [55lbs] unladen. It often tows a homemade 2-wheel trailer, which can carry 65kg [140 lbs]. I ride because I have to, not for fun. If you're a serious recreational cyclist with an expensive bike loaded with top-quality components that a duff or gritty chain would ruin, please feel free to ignore my musings and do whatever it takes to protect your investment. To paraphrase the words of Frank Zappa: 🎵"Keep it greasy so it slides 'round' easy..."🙂
The only thing I use is Dumonde Tech. There’s no need to apply it every time you ride, unlike most lubes. Just clean your chain, apply a little bit to every roller, cycle your chain, wipe it off. Run your chain through a rag every time after a ride. No need to reapply until your chain starts squeaking, then you do the whole process over.
Great video. Is it necessary to fully clean a chain before switching between dry/wet lube? Or can one just switch back and forth as needed without issue?
i stick with Squirt most of the Time but i had also good experience with Finish line Dry lube, don't like Wet lubes at all even i live in a pretty wet Place....
Squirt wax my go to lube good in dry and wet trying pedros wax be here later today. Ridden in snow, rain and sunny weather with squirt, snow and rain rides Gota wipe off after every ride but on trails it attracts a lot Gota clean off every long trail rides as well
Tried the wax lube, not very practical in my view. Du monde Tech quiets my bike and make the difference for me, but got to be, as you say, economical with the application and apply at least twice on a long day. It works right away too, as opposed to others that require 24hr waiting. Liked the video, no need to go fancy with it.
the tough job for the wax lube is penetration. it is usually thicker than an oil based lube and has a harder time getting to where it needs to; under the rollers. but if you can get it there, it does a terrific job at repelling dirty and dust. a full chain submersion or precise drip with extended drying times can do that but to your point, practicality is not part of the picture with such a method.
Really no Tri Flow??? That seems odd. Well my secret (oops guess it's not a secret anymore) for any weather/terrain/time of year is 50/50 Triflow mixed with Pedro's Ice Wax. I've been using it for years and used it for racing road, XC, Downhill and CX
If I'm close to home I hot melt wax my chains, it's simply unmatched. The wax cools down to a solid, which attracts ZERO dirt. Also, the wax gradually flakes off, which makes it shed the dirt. Since the dirt doesn't stick to the wax, just rinsing the chain with water will keep it clean. The drawback is that you need a slow cooker, so for multi-day rides it won't cut it, so when I go on longer rides I top it up with a compatible wax-based drip lube. The one I have, Tru-Tension Tungsten, sets in 10 minutes so it's reasonably practical. If the bike gets very dirty I just hose it off, since the bike doesn't get oily, the dirt also doesn't really stick to the frame. Once I'm back home I immediately take the chain off and drop it into the hot wax.
I bought Squirt, and it jammed my rear derailleur pulleys. Totally gummed them up. Went back to ProLink and NixFrixShun. Can't stand DumondTech and especially Rock and Roll -- it works great, but smells like cancer in a bottle.
To me the lube is entirely determined by the conditions and the ride. For regular rides I use T-9, that's most of the time. When it's going to be wet and a very long day I use something more like the Dumonde. If you are riding all day in rain with intermittent creek crossings or deluges the lighter lube just washes off and the heavier stuff stays. In desperation I've used the remnants from a motor oil bottle from the garbage next to the pump at a gas station. That during heavy rain and sleet and no lube stayed on, but the motor oil did stay. Maybe other oils would be less heavy, power steering or something not corrosive.
Great vid! I generally like to apply lube to my chain hours before a long ride. The extra time allows it to migrate into the pins and such. Dry lube gets applied 6 hours before to give it a chance to dry before dust exposure. I like ceramic lubes as they seem to last a little bit longer (its feels that way for me, anyway).
I use “Super Clean Degreaser” to clean the chain and use Maxima Racing Oils Chain Wax after my day rides to be ready to go anytime. Really sandy where we ride, so chain wax works pretty good. Thx for all the videos.
Kokopelli in the fall=dry lube Any 405 trails in the spring=wet lube Honestly, if your in a pinch any lube is better than nothing. Im guilty of chain abuse sometimes. Happy Trails buddy 👍
I always remove the original thick grease. It picks up too much dirt and the drive chain components are all black with filth in no time. 1) Remove original grease: Put new chain in petrol - swish around - dry with rag. 2) Apply Rock 'n' Roll Extreme Blue to chain. 3) Wipe off excess. 4) Smug look on face as riding mates look on in envy at your clean and efficient running drivechain. 4) Robert is your father's brother.
I'm just about to try some Rock N Roll Extreme Blue to a new chain - the instructions claim to (1) smother and spin the chain to clean it, then (2) wipe and dry for the lube action to take effect. If the cleaning step actually works it could be an interesting option for bikepacking to get rid of the day's dirt and lube for tomorrow. Wiping with a rag makes the outside look pretty but does nothing for clearing grit from the rollers.
@@danschick9396 The cleaning step definitely works. I think all the Rock N Roll lubes do the same thing, extreme blue is best for MTB / Bikepacking though as it lasts longer.
@@phy7tes I love Rock n roll blue for day rides. The issue with Rock n Roll is you will need to carry more volume than a lube such as Dumonde Tech Original.
@@michaelhotten752 Thanks 👍. What looks interesting with the Rock n Roll is cleaning 'in the field' on a multi-day bikepack, though like the previous comment, it requires you need to carry more volume than something that is strictly an oil/lubricant.
Ceramic Lubes are really really good on road bikes and dry conditions gravel bikes. For it to work well, you need to have your drivetrains always clean. On a bikepacking trip my mucoff wet lubes does the job better.
The reason to apply lube is to reduce friction, so better to apply it inside the links, where they contact the chainring and cogs and not on the outside, don’t you think?
I recently started to use wet wipes but those have some aroma and hands after using seem to little sticky...they have some skin treatment, I guess. Probably not what I need on chain and bike, but still, very convenient - I first wipe off frame and then use it for chain.
Holy crap, you lost me at 0:44. BY THE LOVE OF GOD, REMOVE THE FACTORY GREASE!!! Factory chain grease should be called "chain glue." You can literally feel it slowing down your chain. I ALWAYS remove the factory grease with successive baths in mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, followed by thoroughly drying the chain with a hair dryer. Then, install and lube the chain. My favorites are Squirt Lube and Rock-N-Roll Hoy Cow. I've tried waxing my chain, but it's not worth the effort.
"baths in mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, followed by thoroughly drying the chain with a hair dryer" but then "it's not worth the effort" for chain waxing? Um. Anyway, if it's a race bike, strip off the factory lube and use 'faster' solution for sure but this is a bikepacking channel. Factory lube rocks.
Easy answer: 1) strip your chain completely. 2) paraffin wax melt your chain. 3) make your own lube for your trips with paraffin and 100% isopropyl alcohol. It will not attract dirt, no greasy mess and your drivetrain will last forever.
Don’t remove the factory grease? Yes I do. It attracts sand and other contaminants like crazy. Soak it in degreaser or benzine and alcohol and one drop per link REX Black Diamond waxlube. Easy and efficient. Your drivetrain thanks you later.
We got some to-go beers from a hole in the wall bar that was close to camp, I think most of the beers were PBRs in a Michelob Ultra sixer. Woah, you must have #magiclube, do tell...
@@BIKEPACKINGcom I think the term for my maintenance practices is "negligence." I'm going to try and remember to lube the chain once a week... baby steps.
I watched this on a mid-ride break. When Neil said something about finding a rag by the side of the road I thought, "Dream on, that never happens." On my way back, low and behold, a rag by the side of the road!
T-9 really takes just as long as Squirt to dry (overnight), but it does work as a great balance between keeping dirt off the chain and not drying out too quick like other dry/wax lubes.
I use T9. Works great. It is in fact a wax and the instructions stress the need to let it dry before use. The distillate carrier evaporates leaving the wax and active coating. If you lube and go the T9 just gets thrown off, leaving you with a raw chain.
Boeshield T9 is also marketed separately as a rust inhibitor. I use it on stainless steel in a marine environment. It is effective for almost a year between coatings.
Lately I’ve been using GRAPHENLube. It lasts 3-4x longer than T9. Not sure it’s worth the price, but it works and it lasts.
I remove the factory oil, great at preserving the chain but it gets nasty quickly. Drip wax here. Doesn't matter what you use just USE IT and you will save your wallet. Good video thanks 👍
agreed. factory grease is for packing and shipping, not riding. it just attracts dirt. get rid of it and put what really belongs on a chain; a high quality lube.
I don't remove the factory lube because It wears out after 300km and then I just use squit, and I never degrease the chain, it stays clean and no build up, so easy 🤣
The statement about the factory oil started from Sheldon Brown, perhaps it is true but it also attracts a lot of dirt...
No it doesn’t attract dirt if you wipe your chain outside. Factory lube is the best I tested so far
@@TrzCinA122 I tried but I can't remove it from the outside just wiping, it's very sticky, do you use a degreaser on the outside?
The Boeshield T-9 might be called a dry lube, but it really is a wax,. Paraffin wax is listed on the ingredients. @6:57 It works great.
Interesting, that's why it must not work well on a dirty chain. I love it for dry conditions but have distinctly noticed that it does not work when I apply it to a dirty chain. Thanks for the heads up.
I am not sure anymore about the factory oil, it just attracts a LOT of dirt, especially in dusty condition.
I'm still experimenting. I've used triflow. My brother suggested white lightning. Here in the Gila (I live in Silver City, NM) during the dry hot summers its seems to work ok. This winter I went back to triflow because when its below freezing I found the wax got to sticky and free wheeling the crank was slow. This was a first for me. I'm familiar with the Pedro's but never heard of the other lubes, so thank you for this video. I really enjoy this channel. Do take care, and be safe. 😁
I use a baby wipe to clean my chain... fold it in half, fold again, and one more time.... its moist enough to remove the grime and grit.. unfold, and use another section, repeat until the baby wipe is black and the drive train is clean enough to lube.. I also clean the jockey wheels and chain ring, then once over the cassette... they are my daily cleaner, plus you already pack them for trips anyway 👍
Awesome idea. I've been using blue Shop Towels because my microfibers get ruined permanently after using
Hey Neil! I think you’re missing out on all-wax lubes ;) (Silca Super Secret, Molten Speed Wax, and some others that depend on a hyper-clean chain and stripped factory grease, unlike Smoove or Squirt). While the initial setup is tedious (degreasing, mineral spirits, alcohol), some like Silca Super Secret do not even require melting the wax in a crockpot. In dry conditions especially, they are unrivaled and require no cleaning, just the occasional top-up (no need to remove the chain). I think they entirely replace dry Teflon lubes, as they truly attract no dirt and often require no cleaning at all.
He’s also missing the point about not removing factory “grease”. That’s for long shelf life
@@pgreenx yup, thinking the factory lube is the best thing out there shows he has no business informing people about chain lubrication
So good. Really needed this. Thanks
I've not had any issues with Pedro's dry lube. For the 1 week of rain we have here in the SW, I just add 1 or 2 more cleanings.
I find myself going for dryer and dryer lubes. I really like the rock and roll gold and red.
I really love Dumonde Tech as well! I recommend it to everyone I ride with who asks! I use the original (green) formula during the winter and then the light (yellow) formula during the summer. Lasts a long time and I pretty much never have a squeaky chain. It does get a bit grimy but I've noticed that generally, the rollers stay very clean which is where it counts. Only downside I have found is that my partner HATES its smell haha!
If you remove all that oil from new chain with some benzin an white spirits and then apply Squirt lube. It will attract way less dirt and you don't need to wait for it to dry. I had it for 3 years now and it's best thing ever!
Pedros Chainj is almost magical in one way. If you apply it on a clean dry chain just one drop each roller it totally stay inside even after a short ride. The Chain is still bone dry. After a while it will come out a bit but the oil does very good in dry dusty conditions. It supposed to also hold up in some rain but I hadnt had the chance to try this out yet. I thinks its amazing and very underrated.
I use the purple extreme. It works in all conditions and helps reduce wear & tear.
When I can get it, off shore drilling lube(Purple Extreme). In the mean time, the always available Banana Laffy Taffy(Dumonde Tech Lite). They can be used interchangeably, without a blink.
I use silicone oil, i drip it in to the chain, wipe off the excess, let dry over night it will evaporate and leave an invisible film, it doesn’t attract dust and you can use it as often as you want.
Dupont Chain Saver by the quart. Used it on my motorcycle for years. Also used the T9 for a couple of years. The wear and tear differences over time are insignificant at best.
Honestly, the best advice in this video is to clean your chain regularly. Chain brush & a clean rag all you need.
Glad to see you aren't particularly recommending those wax based lubes. All the bike shops seem to push them, and I've just found they make your whole drive train a waxy, dirt caked, hard to clean mess. Even degreasers hardly work on removing them. Like you, I'm a fan of Dumonde lubes.
I felt you may be spending too much time cleaning and lubing your chain. Three times a day? Really? Even on long bikepacks and road tours I've never found that to be necessary.
Also, I used to clean bike chains with dish soap, as you suggest. Based on almost nothing, I decided that was likely to leave a detergent residue on the chain. One of my preferred methods is WD-40, which acts as a solvent, and then wiping the chain with a rag. That way I know I'm not going to end up with stiff links.
This is the video I have always wanted
🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
The lube I have used for years is STP chainsaw bar chain oil. This stuff penetrates and hangs in there and it is affordable.
These are the same dropper bottles as used in the ultralight backpacking world for water treatment. Many cottage industry backpacking companies also sell them.
I've been using maxima wax. Wax doesn't attract dirt, is waterproof, and doesn't make my chain an oily dirty mess of I need to work on my bike while riding. It's a bit more challenging to apply but I don't do a full clean each application. Wax is also supposed to be the best for chain longevity according to some of the testing I have looked into. I used to only use wet lube that wasn't overly sticky but switched to wax two years ago.
dumonde for the win.....and thanks for the link to the little bottles. on it!
00:35 - I think the factory-applied lubrication is just a temporary coating to keep a freshy-machined, unused chain rust-free while it's sitting on a shelf in a shop. I don't think it's a 'working' lube as such; it's meant for static, long-term storage.
Once out of the packet and on your bike, the chain needs something intended for active use, because the factory coating probably won't give the right kind of protection when things start moving. That means (ideally) stripping off the protective stuff and getting the chain lubricated with a more suitable substance.
I'm based in the gloomy north of England, where the weather's always lousy. I clean my chain with ordinary white-spirit (paintbrush cleaner) and a rag once a week, and with a cheap (£6) rotating-brush automatic chain-cleaning tool maybe once a month.
I ride on the road, not on mountain trails. For many years I just used fresh motor oil (10-40) for lubrication. It worked perfectly well. That'll annoy a lot of bike people, gear fanatics and accessory manufacturers, but that's been my experience. I'm currently trying a 'proper' wet lube (proper, but cheap - £3.00); I'll report back in 15 years or so to let you know how it's working... 🤭
Wet lube (or motor oil) will cling to anything and find its way in and around the chain's original factory coating, assuming you don't bother to remove it. It's there when it's needed; but a 'dry' lubrication system should probably be applied to a chain that's been completely degreased.
That's just my opinion. I've never used a 'dry' lube or a ceramic one. Chains are tough, so almost anything goes. My bike's cheap [£130 new] and just a basic workhorse; it's 22 years old. I only use the very cheapest components, such as chains for £3.99, chainwheels for £15, and cassettes for £6.
Wet lubes gather dust, create 'goo', and form a fine grinding paste which wears out moving parts. Car motor oil, though, is designed expressly to resist such damage in metal-to-metal contact points, which is why [in my experience] the gritty grinding goo doesn't seem to be much of a problem on a bike chain.
I should mention here that on my bike the chainwheel is an old-school (i.e. crude, cheap, heavy) steel one, and it's laughed at such grinding paste for 22 years. The way my bike gets used, a lightweight aluminium chainring would probably have been worn away to nothing in a year or two.
I've only bought three chains in over 50,000 miles of riding. I've just ordered a new chainwheel because the steel one's teeth are now very sharp indeed and the chain's starting to jump under pressure. I'm still using the original 7-speed rear cassette, though.
But hey, that's just me. I'm not a performance fanatic. I don't care about weight or watts or efficiency. My bike's covered in homemade racks and panniers and weighs 25 kg [55lbs] unladen. It often tows a homemade 2-wheel trailer, which can carry 65kg [140 lbs].
I ride because I have to, not for fun. If you're a serious recreational cyclist with an expensive bike loaded with top-quality components that a duff or gritty chain would ruin, please feel free to ignore my musings and do whatever it takes to protect your investment.
To paraphrase the words of Frank Zappa: 🎵"Keep it greasy so it slides 'round' easy..."🙂
The only thing I use is Dumonde Tech. There’s no need to apply it every time you ride, unlike most lubes. Just clean your chain, apply a little bit to every roller, cycle your chain, wipe it off. Run your chain through a rag every time after a ride. No need to reapply until your chain starts squeaking, then you do the whole process over.
Great video. Is it necessary to fully clean a chain before switching between dry/wet lube? Or can one just switch back and forth as needed without issue?
If you use a dry lube, you have to remove all the wet lube, so not easy to switch back and forth.
i stick with Squirt most of the Time but i had also good experience with Finish line Dry lube, don't like Wet lubes at all even i live in a pretty wet Place....
Great video. How many ml lube would you take for a two week tour in wet conditions?
Squirt wax my go to lube good in dry and wet trying pedros wax be here later today. Ridden in snow, rain and sunny weather with squirt, snow and rain rides Gota wipe off after every ride but on trails it attracts a lot Gota clean off every long trail rides as well
Tried the wax lube, not very practical in my view. Du monde Tech quiets my bike and make the difference for me, but got to be, as you say, economical with the application and apply at least twice on a long day. It works right away too, as opposed to others that require 24hr waiting. Liked the video, no need to go fancy with it.
the tough job for the wax lube is penetration. it is usually thicker than an oil based lube and has a harder time getting to where it needs to; under the rollers. but if you can get it there, it does a terrific job at repelling dirty and dust. a full chain submersion or precise drip with extended drying times can do that but to your point, practicality is not part of the picture with such a method.
Really no Tri Flow??? That seems odd. Well my secret (oops guess it's not a secret anymore) for any weather/terrain/time of year is 50/50 Triflow mixed with Pedro's Ice Wax. I've been using it for years and used it for racing road, XC, Downhill and CX
If I'm close to home I hot melt wax my chains, it's simply unmatched. The wax cools down to a solid, which attracts ZERO dirt. Also, the wax gradually flakes off, which makes it shed the dirt. Since the dirt doesn't stick to the wax, just rinsing the chain with water will keep it clean. The drawback is that you need a slow cooker, so for multi-day rides it won't cut it, so when I go on longer rides I top it up with a compatible wax-based drip lube. The one I have, Tru-Tension Tungsten, sets in 10 minutes so it's reasonably practical. If the bike gets very dirty I just hose it off, since the bike doesn't get oily, the dirt also doesn't really stick to the frame. Once I'm back home I immediately take the chain off and drop it into the hot wax.
I bought Squirt, and it jammed my rear derailleur pulleys. Totally gummed them up. Went back to ProLink and NixFrixShun. Can't stand DumondTech and especially Rock and Roll -- it works great, but smells like cancer in a bottle.
Have you ever used the dumonde tech lube on a wax treated chain?
Can’t do that.
To me the lube is entirely determined by the conditions and the ride. For regular rides I use T-9, that's most of the time. When it's going to be wet and a very long day I use something more like the Dumonde. If you are riding all day in rain with intermittent creek crossings or deluges the lighter lube just washes off and the heavier stuff stays. In desperation I've used the remnants from a motor oil bottle from the garbage next to the pump at a gas station. That during heavy rain and sleet and no lube stayed on, but the motor oil did stay. Maybe other oils would be less heavy, power steering or something not corrosive.
Great vid! I generally like to apply lube to my chain hours before a long ride. The extra time allows it to migrate into the pins and such. Dry lube gets applied 6 hours before to give it a chance to dry before dust exposure. I like ceramic lubes as they seem to last a little bit longer (its feels that way for me, anyway).
Muc Off, Tri Flow, or Rock n Roll Extreme
Dumontec original formula for the GDMBR-NOBO this summer?
Thats what I would use, perhaps some of the "Lite" for the start of your trip.
Dude, you need a belt drive to rid the lube.
I use “Super Clean Degreaser” to clean the chain and use Maxima Racing Oils Chain Wax after my day rides to be ready to go anytime. Really sandy where we ride, so chain wax works pretty good. Thx for all the videos.
Kokopelli in the fall=dry lube
Any 405 trails in the spring=wet lube
Honestly, if your in a pinch any lube is better than nothing. Im guilty of chain abuse sometimes. Happy Trails buddy 👍
What about PJ oil? PJ I think that's what they call it for motorcycle chains?
I always remove the original thick grease. It picks up too much dirt and the drive chain components are all black with filth in no time.
1) Remove original grease: Put new chain in petrol - swish around - dry with rag.
2) Apply Rock 'n' Roll Extreme Blue to chain.
3) Wipe off excess.
4) Smug look on face as riding mates look on in envy at your clean and efficient running drivechain.
4) Robert is your father's brother.
I'm just about to try some Rock N Roll Extreme Blue to a new chain - the instructions claim to (1) smother and spin the chain to clean it, then (2) wipe and dry for the lube action to take effect. If the cleaning step actually works it could be an interesting option for bikepacking to get rid of the day's dirt and lube for tomorrow. Wiping with a rag makes the outside look pretty but does nothing for clearing grit from the rollers.
@@danschick9396 The cleaning step definitely works. I think all the Rock N Roll lubes do the same thing, extreme blue is best for MTB / Bikepacking though as it lasts longer.
@@phy7tes I love Rock n roll blue for day rides. The issue with Rock n Roll is you will need to carry more volume than a lube such as Dumonde Tech Original.
@@danschick9396 check out Zero Friction Cycling or Silca's TH-cam channel for some great tips on deep cleaning a chain.
@@michaelhotten752 Thanks 👍. What looks interesting with the Rock n Roll is cleaning 'in the field' on a multi-day bikepack, though like the previous comment, it requires you need to carry more volume than something that is strictly an oil/lubricant.
Ceramic Lubes are really really good on road bikes and dry conditions gravel bikes. For it to work well, you need to have your drivetrains always clean. On a bikepacking trip my mucoff wet lubes does the job better.
What about Wolf Tooth?
Came out after this video, more here…..bikepacking.com/gear/wolf-tooth-wt-1-chain-lube-review/
Pro Gold Pro Link.
Can we talk about the pop up additions? Someone's getting adobe premier skills
Haha, I’m getting there! That sound effect is also hand made ;)
The reason to apply lube is to reduce friction, so better to apply it inside the links, where they contact the chainring and cogs and not on the outside, don’t you think?
IT is not to reduce friction between chain and cogs or anything else, but INSIDE this chain.
That means between pins and chain plate.
Wet wipes to clean chain
Woah, good idea.
I recently started to use wet wipes but those have some aroma and hands after using seem to little sticky...they have some skin treatment, I guess. Probably not what I need on chain and bike, but still, very convenient - I first wipe off frame and then use it for chain.
Holy crap, you lost me at 0:44. BY THE LOVE OF GOD, REMOVE THE FACTORY GREASE!!! Factory chain grease should be called "chain glue." You can literally feel it slowing down your chain. I ALWAYS remove the factory grease with successive baths in mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, followed by thoroughly drying the chain with a hair dryer. Then, install and lube the chain. My favorites are Squirt Lube and Rock-N-Roll Hoy Cow. I've tried waxing my chain, but it's not worth the effort.
"baths in mineral spirits and denatured alcohol, followed by thoroughly drying the chain with a hair dryer" but then "it's not worth the effort" for chain waxing? Um. Anyway, if it's a race bike, strip off the factory lube and use 'faster' solution for sure but this is a bikepacking channel. Factory lube rocks.
Easy answer: 1) strip your chain completely. 2) paraffin wax melt your chain. 3) make your own lube for your trips with paraffin and 100% isopropyl alcohol. It will not attract dirt, no greasy mess and your drivetrain will last forever.
Don’t remove the factory grease? Yes I do. It attracts sand and other contaminants like crazy. Soak it in degreaser or benzine and alcohol and one drop per link REX Black Diamond waxlube. Easy and efficient. Your drivetrain thanks you later.
Chain lubes would cost around $800-1000 if you could buy them by the gallon.
they are never perfect and i can never choose quite the right one for me (London, UK)
I wouldn't recommend picking up some random rag on the side of the road
Squirt on my road bike and T9 on my mountain bike
The best way to lube your chain is to buy a quality chain and not to lube it at all. Just piss on it once in awhile.
Visine eh ;)
Michelob Ultra??? Bikepacking deserves big calorie beer. I lube my chain like 3x year not 3x day... #seemsfine
We got some to-go beers from a hole in the wall bar that was close to camp, I think most of the beers were PBRs in a Michelob Ultra sixer. Woah, you must have #magiclube, do tell...
@@BIKEPACKINGcom I think the term for my maintenance practices is "negligence." I'm going to try and remember to lube the chain once a week... baby steps.