Husqvarna 345 to 350 conversion. A Firewood Saw. Simple tools Simple Build
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 7 พ.ย. 2015
- Cover more details on Husqvarna 340-350 series saws. Having a little fun building a hobby/firewood saw for a friend. Tweaking a less desirable version of the family...345 to a less desirable version of the 350.... the "finger port" or open port cylinder. The fact is that cylinder responds to compression increases like any other cylinder and can be made to run quite well.
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
![ลักพาตัว เอาลูกเอิร์นกลับมา...!! [เอิร์นไดเม่]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/f4NVKlZ5qkk/mqdefault.jpg)
...as a former Husqvarna tech, I dealt with a lot of the loose muffler/melted cases on the 350..as you stated, I rarely saw it on 340/345's..you may be right about the closed port cylinders having different harmonic vibrations...what I DID notice is that many, if not most, were the hot-running(and heavier muffler) Cat muffler versions, and most had been run hard/run dull by their owners(lots of high no-load/low-load RPM's)...near the end of production, Husqvarna did introduce a muffler with an extra support and screw at top...they will retrofit to all saws, but those mufflers are kind of hard to find....any time I rebuild a 340/345, I ALWAYS do this 350-style conversion..no reason not to, the parts cost nearly the same...another nice upgrade, while you have it apart, is to ditch the crappy plastic 340/345 oiler and oiler gear in favor of metal 350 setup:)
There was actually a factory defect on certain 350 cylinders, which caused severe vibration. The smaller cylinder on the 345 never had the defect, if I remember right. You can look at the markings. Some of the 350's vibrated, but some had a different cylinder and didn't vibrate. I can't remember the details though. I have a 345 and it was always glassy smooth. I noticed it has the "good" cylinder according to the markings on the top.
Nice!!!!! I should have know right off that you had already been down this road!!! Thanks for the ultimate how to do this modification video!!! A+++
Right leave it rich..saves the piston.
I put a metal brace from muffler top to top of cylinder on my 350 . No more vibration and muffler stays on. Mine burnt through same way. I have a new 450 and old 350 seems to be stronger plus I picked it out of repair shop garbage can for free...lol. I put a meteor piston and cylinder on it. Best saws I ever used . I grind big stumps and cut stumps low with old 350...in dirt often...Thing just keeps cutting . I had their husqvarna dirt bikes as a kid...awesome. Good show thanks.
I use motoseal and it works great. I love the 340-350 series. They are great saws and light weight. A ported 350 will run circles around a lot of other saws.
Had to watch this one again! I love the open wood fired dogs at the end! Makes ya want sum Gludens & a dog!
I would love to see the saw college on this series :)
+DIESELMAN8V92 Careful what you wish for!
1184 - you are right. It is good stuff and lasts good after being opened. I keep my tube on my office desk in the house. In fact, I keep all my RTV sealants on my desk. If I left them in my shop they would be as hard as a rock after a few months in 100 degree weather.
happen to get the 350 yesterday from guy up rd.has the 45L cyl. similar problem,but caught in time. still needs new cyl. piston.,ring. the ring was welded to piston and deeply scored on exhaust side.also that cheesy plastic intake clamp was loose.
Nice vid. I had an 12 year old poulan I keep in my truck if I get trees down going into my place and this week I was cutting some popular and the crank sheared off at the clutch, looks like it just snapped off , no twisting at all. Looks like a 6 mm shaft, never seen that before. Well I'm looking to buy a new emergency saw, don't want to leave a $800 saw in my truck so what looks good out there to you better than another poulan with about 5 hours on it that blows up, oh well it was only a $100 saw, can't expect much LOL
+Steve Rob i have found some decent saws for 100 on craiglist
Oh and I ordered the ms660 kit, but looking like a month or so before it gets here..
What "brand & dia?" Is that soft lead you're using? Couldn't read to grab some...the stuff I got it too hard, or seems so? Thanks Sir Walt!Put a short Champion CJ8 in that other saw to gain clearance...we'll see?
is that still the 44mil cyl. low, I'm assuming not high,just been searching ebay for the parts and have the low or high 44mil.thanks
need advise and over view I wanna do a saw build I have a good running 235! any advise and over view would be great and the stupid quick adjust chain wish I could replace with old style 2 nut style but don't look like I can
+mike cole my 235e now has the 240 clutch cover with no issues.
My little 36 I tubed the muffler was running insane today .... She's got a pin hole in the fuel line... Adding just enough for lean to make it kinda scary fun.... Half of me wants to leave it in there....LOL. Well I guess know I kinda know better just how much more she's got when I retune it... Right! 14 inch bar with low pro 3/8's. I really have trouble saying this isn't my favorite saw!
+David Thorne I think its time for a video...:)
i got a farmertech big bore kit and cant get squish, its like 30, took the cap back out to grind down on emory paper on tablesaw (flat) but im afraid to take too much off of that
Wow that's an old video, but still relevant I guess. When u say "can't get squish" what exactly does that mean? So mujch has to be removed that it's beyond what you have for tooling? Or it's hard to measure so your not sure what you have for squish? The one thing that the plate and sanding approach takes is .. patience. Partly because if it's rushed, you can theoretically introduce an angle where now the cylinder is no longer square to the crank so measure often with calipers to ensure even material removal. Also calculate how much needs to be removed, and include the difference with or without a gasket as that's usually .020" right there. And with a scribe make a mark...more for a reference than anything else as you STILL have to measure often to make certain od even material removal. Patience. And begin careful is the rule.
Hello, Liking your vids, thanks... I am working on a 345 (42mm)to closed port 350 (44mm) conversion.I have a problem. Using the stock crank which seems to be good. The piston is way down with out a gasketand not looking like it opens up the intake port. Could that be a Rod issue?Thanks for any help with this.
+Robert House Shouldn't be any issue there at all. Of course you need the bearing cap but it should bolt right up.
+Robert House What exactly does the "Piston is way down" mean?
What is recommended as a sealent for the transfer port caps. I just built my 350 twice because I keep having leaks at those caps.
+Ryan Egerter I've used the OEM gaskets glued on with Three Bond AND (A confession I think) I've actually epoxied them...put on the epoxy and ran the screws in to "firm" and let it dry. Sealed right up. First time I did that was because I was too enthusiastic with the die grinder.
+afleetcommand thank you. looked on some forums and couldn't find anything. I've learned so much from you and Bob. I've been watching your channel since I was 18, and this is my favorite chainsaw related channel
lw
On the topic of conversions I have a 455 in need of a top end will the 460 49mm top end fit my 455 they look the same and the 460 top end is a lot cheaper. Oem that is.
460 is a bolt on. (Piston & Cylinder)
afleetcommand Awesome thanks!
my 235 had the same style top end as that wonder if that jug would fit ?
No.
You sure get a lot out of your saws. It would be cool to see you get as enthusiastic about upgrading splitters too! What seems to take the longest is the splitting with my 27 ton hydraulic. Probably similar to the cycle time your splitter has. My friend bought a kinetic splitter and it worked great on smaller shorter stuff. What do you think is the ultimate splitting upgrades? Kinetic with mega flywheels? Or a hydraulic with an upgraded pump/motor hoses?
+Rizzi Family Had a person bring a "kinetic" splitter and they split a LOT of wood. Here's the deal. The right wood splits fast. I have knarly maple that stops those devices. So my preference is Hydraulic systems.
I just got the camera and I'm working on the setup and whatnot. Sorry, I'm long winded .... Are you going to assemble and sell those hutzle 660 with the big bore and the oem chain tensioner installed? If so, what's your rough pricing thoughts? 54 & 56 mm are they?? Thanks again for the awesome education!
+David Thorne Haven't really gave it much thought... Guess I rather help folks build them than sell them. They are a hoot, put together another one yesterday. I really don't know what I'm going to do other than build them and try different configurations, video them. So at this point I have no plan. :)
Just got the note from huztl ...they have total kit minus bar/chain as they say for $380. I'm gonna try to get the big bore jug. I'm thinking this kit comes with the engine assembled....but I'm thinking I should get gaskets and reassemble with good gasket and sealant. Or, would you trust their manufacturing and say good enough??? I just pulled that newer husky 350 apart and that cylinder doesn't look any better quality finished to me. There's gonna be deburring and the ports need cleaned up around the edges of them. Great news is I think I got this cranked back up with elbow grease, a 45 huztl piston, gasket maker to replace base gasket and a hole in the muffler!!! Thanks for the lessons!!!
I've had fun with the MS660's. And they definitely need OEM chain adjusters. I would stick with the 54mm for now. I like the 56mm but have some tools many don't to fix issues. A pencil sized die grinder for one. The 54mm versions seem to be solid and you can ALWAYS add a 56mm later. :)
what is better 1194 or 1184 I been using 1184 and love it ,I don't think they make 1194 any more
1194
So can the 345 be converted to a 350 non-clamshell engine?
The point of this video :)
Can you put a bigger piston and cylinder on the 445e saw?
maybe, essentially the same as a 450
I'm confused on what top end is compatible with my 345 e series 2006 everything I see for sale is pre 2001 are you saying I can use my intake and a pre 2001 kit ?
yup, with a tweak here and there all that stuff is interchangeable. What makes things difficult are the primer bulb vs early ones with none. But still pretty much interchangeable. Just have to be a little creative. Nothing too hard.
Just seeing this now YT never notifies me for replies have to go back and check when I remember .Thank you I'm looking for a companion to my 272/395 . Is it work going to the 45mm cylinder this is my first ever saw build I've done a few small engine 4 stroke builds for racing mowers but this is a whole new ball of wax for me . I don't see a 350 series play list so I'm picking through trying to find them all so hopefully I don't ask questions you have already covered thanks for all the detailed videos they have been a big help between you and tinman I feel I'm ready to make this attempt.
I have 345 too, but is ebay cylinders good this saw? Myis year 2000,founds my videos.
sure if u find an OEM cylinder on eBay
Hm, makes me wonder if there isn’t a little better top end I could put on my 2050 when it’s hot and I’m cooped up inside bored this summer...
They were a unique design. Shared the chassis with Husqvarna 49's and were the top of that line of saws. So nope, your pretty much at the end game with those. I believe there are a few NOS OEM top ends around. Might ask a dealer. But being a clam shell, they don't have as many places to leak. So if they do, its probably seals. But also being a clam shell, changing seals and bearings don't require special tools...:)
www.ebay.com/itm/HUSQVARNA-455-460-JONSERED-2255-CYLINDER-PISTON-KIT-OEM-KIT-537320501-49MM/380712541964?epid=1023864197&hash=item58a43c5f0c:g:jwEAAMXQ2kxSKOZh
www.partstree.com/parts/jonsered/saws-chainsaw/2050-jonsered-chainsaw-2001-09/crankcase/
Ya know that’s a real good point about the clamshells.
Mine is ok for the moment, minus the little leak. Found some JB weld on the case behind the flywheel, something broke and went for a ride in there in the past. Suspect.
You thinking the rancher top end might bolt on, maybe with the help of a machine shop?
Never ordered from partstree but use their diagrams often. Any good? I’m close to Bailey’s but have trouble finding what I need...so Bob is up! You sell parts too?
You think this 45mm slug would run in the 45mm kit, Walt?
Can send the pics....it's farmer tec HS25445. HUS-254 piston.... has open sides??? Looks great and is a 45mm???
My local tractor supply has a Jonsered refurbished 2166 for $699 is that a good deal and will it be a good saw for daily use?
+Will Klaer That's an "OK" deal.
+afleetcommand by the way I'm watching your videos from pittstown NY!
That's actually close to an excellent Jonsered Dealer.."The Cutting Edge" in Greenwich NY..:)
+afleetcommand I know exactly where that is. I might give them a viset
is the 353 considered a "PRO" saw?
+zack stroud Not really...it was in that place now occupied by saws like the 545, 555, 365 when it had Pro saw construction with a slightly less powerful top end. The 353 shared a cylinder with the later 350 series saws. Actually the 350 had a "dished" piston to reduce the power a bit while the 353 had the same cases as a 346, had that 350 cylinder with a "flat top" piston. The 346 had a more sophisticated quad port style top end and made more power and RPM's than the 350 even though the crank and cases were the same.
+zack stroud BUT new OEM 346 top ends are in the $75-$100 dollar range now with the "new" Husqvarna pricing and will sit right where the 353 top end is.
I may have to get me a top end kit and go mad scientist on it as a project lol...thank you very much my friend!
why do you remove the decompressor?
+Kersh123 Because they leak.
Still trying to get the short cuts from your research... are they a metric...like 8mm 1.25 or something like that...1/4 inch long? I need to hit the hardware and grab a half dozen since I never use them...a dab of 1184 on the treads there as well? Boy, it's amazing the 346 hub is $100 ... gotta look into that one. Guess the China parts have really helped us in the long run. I remember a couple years ago I spent like $250 for the top end of a 346 I didn't want to bastardized. Since passed on as I've been running that 350 with the big bore hutzl with a 353 flat top meteor since I saw your video three years ago now? Thanks GURU!!! All the time you've spent on these videos has opened thousands of minds and given guy's like me the courage to "give it a try for fifty bucks!"... thanks again champ! If you want a nice untra light rod/reel I never really use just pm the shop address, Big Guy! Thanks again! Off to find my good hemo's as I gotta pull a new piece of tygon for a fuel line.
PS...that was a hog of a bass that came out of that farm pond on my "trout" spinner... that was jug not hub in the above...I gotta really look at the OEM prices these days. It's awesome that the quality of the aftermarket stuff gets better and better....! Phil said 6 more weeks and winters pretty much done!!!! 😃✔️✔️
Do you do builds for people all over? I've never owned a Husqavarna before, but curious about them. I've only got the old McCulloch's (7, to be exact). An eBay bought Pro-Mac 10-10 that blew up last winter, not the fault of the guy I bought it from on eBay mind you, just a fluke thing that happened. A 55, 60, 700, a made by Partner (P100) Pro-Mac 1000 (a 100 cc saw), a little Pro-Mac 340, and one of those big box store junk MCC1635AK's. I love the old aluminum bodied Mac's although most people nowadays would say they're heavy. They don't seem to bother me any.
I live in Northwestern Illinois, near Dubuque, Iowa and Southwestern Wisconsin. Most people around here use Stihl's, but I know a few people use the Husky's. What is a better saw, the 345/350's like in this video you made or the 435/440/445....series? I don't even know how many are in each series. What really interests me is the 372 series, it seems there's multiple versions of it and I'm frankly a little confused. Like I said, I don't really know anything about the Husky's. I know a lot more about the old McCulloch's, that's for sure, but not brave enough to modify them like you!
+John Lincicum Typically I try to keep the old American saws stock. There are plenty of folks in your area who will mod pretty much anything with a motor. And with the old McCulloch's there is still a residual following/expertise from (Go) Cart racing. Mac's ruled that world for many years. I would look that direction for Mac Mods... :)
+John Lincicum The 345/350 is a better option for modifications as you can blend them with 346 top ends and 357xp intake components.. the results being way more saw than the small 40cc 435/440 and 45cc 445. AND the money is right if you "ebay" the parts from used saws...a hobby mindset
+afleetcommand What is the meaning of the numbers Husky uses? i.e. 340 vs. 440 and 272 vs. 372?
+John Lincicum I guess I wouldn't assume logic! But.... here is a few trends. Think of the first number as generations/era and actually design style... the 100 series, 200 series (1980's into the 1990's), 300 series...1990's some still in play. 400 series, mostly home owner "Strato Charged" saws in the 2000 to current time frame. 500 series the new Autotunes, The next two numbers typically is the class displacement. For example..340... 1990's to mid 2005 era 40cc saw. 345... same generation 45cc, 350...50cc etc. 562, "Current Auto Tune Generation" saw in the 62cc class.
Anybody that tells you cutting wood is fun has been smoking to many left handed cigarettes. It is work, albeit dirty dangerous work. Even splitting firewood is dirty dangerous work. There ain’t nothing fun about it.