Fixing OSB the correct way, make sure you leave the correct gaps!!!! how proper carpenters do it!!!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ส.ค. 2024
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The video is about leaving the correct gaps between OSB sheets in framing and carpentry applications, OSB is the most common form of sheathing and it provides a good strong surface to accept all types of finishes, here in this video I share some knowledge about fixing OSB and the correct gaps and nail spacing
Look out for the new Milwaukee framing nailer in sequential firing mode!!
Any apprentice would be blessed to have you as their tradesman ! Very admirable .
I worked with guys in the joinery shop that haven't done bench joinery as good as your framing keep up the good work
Great to see a craftsman at work, a true craftsman always makes it look easy, as I look at the modern day builds by the big builders I despair sometimes as the quality does seem to there. I had an extension built in 1989 and the brick layer I employed was old school, he measured his mix and over 30 years later it still looks as good as the day he did it. I love your videos.
Invaluable content as always mate. It's the fundamentals that trip people up so having a short, simple video to reference is perfect. Top Mark's. 👍
Liking the last tip. I’ve been measuring each side from the bottom, having to remember 2 measurements.. for those of us who don’t do this as a day job these little tips are great, thanks.
Or you could just write the measurements down 😁
Great amount of info in a short clip, I always learn something new watching your videos Robin, thanks for sharing! 👍
So many gems in the span of 5 minutes (esp that bit about the gap requirement - never knew that!)
Always a pleasure to watch and learn from a real tradesman. Loving the channel. cheers.
on my 3rd cuppa joe ... just watching you being productive and I've already watched this vid and gave it a thumbs up. All i need to do is install a toilet and hang the bathroom door. I'm procrastinating ..... think I'll watch another vid!
Hello Robin,
It is nice to watch your video's every time.
The real craftmanship of you is inspiring and educational
In each video your are giving the right clues.
Using the right and latest tools is also very interesting to see.
I have bought the Hikoki frame nailer, because i saw you using it.
Fantastic machine!
And stay proud of what your making every day. Just like me.
Your enthusiasm will surely inspire other people to become a carpenter.
Overhere in Holland they are almost extinct.
Keep up the good work.
Greetings from a dutch carpenter.
Finally someone who knows the difference between OSB and Plywood jesus
281 likes not 1 dislike. Excellent stuff. You're an inspiration.
Middle out - like so many good techniques, obvious but only after someone shows you, thanks so much 👍👍👍
You’re welcome 😊
Nail guns, one of those tools that most DIYers don't have. Or even other trades that don't work with timber much. Seeing you wack that sheet up in seconds fills me with envy!
Have an air compressor? You can get pneumatic nailers as cheap as under a hundred bucks
No, again, air compressors, very unlikely for DIYers to have. More likely to have a cordless nailer but at around £300+ it's tough for most to justify unless taking on a large project.
@@marcopetrillo6867 not in the US. I can go buy a compressor that will run any nail gun for $90. If you aren't willing to spend that, you don't care about moving quickly.
@@mike93lx Sure, I can buy a lot of things that would make that one job a lot quicker. And then it would be slung in to storage, destined for a lonely and solitary existence until it fades in to a distant memory. DIYers have more general toolsets, they don't include air compressors (at least not in the UK)
@@marcopetrillo6867 once you have a tool like that, you can find lots of uses, but we all have our own priorities.
If someone is doing a large framing project like a shed or addition, a compressor should be a default to own. If you live in an apartment, you probably aren't doing any framing
Loving the tips Robin all the tips you can give are much appreciated 👌
Glad you like them!
If only I was 30yrs younger Robin I'd come and labour for you for free just for the chance to try and learn 1% of what you know. Thanks for the time you take to make your videos.
Surely if you were 30years younger you be too young!!!!
@@peterbell4154 No, unfortunately not. Peter
That nail gun is performing really well Robin. Some more great tips there mate, and you are great in front of the camera. Cheers.
Dude that nail gun is a beast :-)
Great content as always!!
Hi Robin, Common sense, but you would be surprised how many times I have seen boards jammed up tight. I saw a chipboard T& G floor laid once with all the head joints inline the couple of blokes that laid it were really proud that they had them all inline begs believe really doesn't it. Prefer the Milwaukee keeps delivering not stopping!! once again good show.
Top work. Always look forward to your videos. A master at work.
Lovely work Robin!!
A think this video just made Milwaukee sales go sky high 😂😂
super great quick vid and a big big fan of that
Sheets should be ran horizontal for maximum strength, says right on the sheet usually.
Good work mate 👍
Its great to see a top carpent i thought i was the only one 😁
I did my summer house with OSB last year and had no gaps. 1 year later absolutely no issues of expansion/bowing and the OSB hasn't been cladded yet so would have seen. I thought the whole point of OSB and PLY was that you didn't have to leave gaps like with natural wood. I've done interior wardrobes with ply stuck to walls - no gaps - no issues. Maybe it depends on initial temperature... for example if hot weather: leave no gaps, if cold weather: leave gaps so it can expand when summer comes.
they shrink in summer due to humudity :)
It's the shorts on a construction site that convinces me he knows what he's talking about. Great leg protection mate!!
I was thinking I was the only on to have turn ups on my Jean shorts. Must be our age that we can be completely cool in wearing them rather than having to wear combat shorts like the younguns.
This channel should be called Robin clever
Hey Robin awesome tips great video all the best Tony 👍
Thanks Tony, I am up for your podcast mate too
As an enthusiastic DIY I never dare to start such a project, but now will probably start a doll's house to get the feel for it
Some good tips 👍
Always a pleasure to watch and listen Robbin ,have you left a gap at the top of the osb ?
When you leave the 3mm gap for expansion and contraction, doesn't the additional 3mm add up so that eventually the OSB wont line up on the centre of the stud?
I buy conditioned board so the board size is 2397 x 1197 instead of a typical 8 x 4
Robin Clevett I’ve never seen metric osb !!can see this coming in handy same as plasterboard size (ish )is it more expensive. 👍🏻👍🏻
@@ukconstruction Where do you get conditioned sheet material from?, I have a building company thats Surrey based so would be good to know for our future projects, all the best.
Mark Worthington they only do it in 9mm
@@Spiderboi690 hi Mark, you can get it on most sizes I have had 18mm plenty of times
I always thought my 1st fix nailer was my loudest tool...so it is the one time I ALWAYS wear ear protection...or is the Milwaukee especially quiet?
Hello Robin, bumped into Adam today. Not in Camber now!
Which Adam??
Thanks for another great video, confidense inspiring when we get advice to steer us in the right direction. Could you recommend what nails to use in a Milwaukee first fix nailer? I have been struggling with Dewalt nails, misfire and jamming when 4 nails left on a clip even though another is already loaded behind.
Fascinating video. Out of interest what is going on top of the OSB? If anything. Thanks and best wishes
We use a TF200 Therma membrane and then a counter batten and in this case an Oak feather edge cladding
Many thanks. Interesting. Kind of you to reply. Best wishes @@ukconstruction
HI Robin! Loving Your channel! But I quick question, you went to fast for me on the last bit. How do you know the total length of the sheet at the longest part? Wouldn’t you have to measure from the bottom up to your level mark? And what was the last measurement you took from the “flat part” (332) at the top! Keep it up, just finished my apprenticeship and looking for a guy like you, to work for. Big inspiration 🏆
I believe he's taking the left side of the sheet material measurement i.e the long length (the 332) from the right side of the previously cut board (the board on the left which is already in place) I guess minus 3 or 4mm to account for the gapping, If you notice on the video Robin looks up and then mentions the 332, it's the measurement he's written on the board for the previous cut, hope that helps
Rob Norman Thanks! That makes sense. But I don’t think he need to account taking of 3 mm because the right side is already lifted when he gets the measurement (332). So after getting one measurement from the first sheet on the wall he will have a natural measurement for the rest of the angel without taking the measurement! Smart
@@mattish2476 Smart yes, but only if you didn't know this "trick" already, these are the kind of little tips that you learn through experience, I'm only guessing that he deducted a bit from the previous board as due to the 3mm gap the measurement won't be exactly the same, saying that considering its all going to be clad afterwards the cuts won't need to be ultra precise. Another way of course is using the new "right hand side" measurement and then using the off cut from the previous board as a guide for the gable end angle..
Good video thanks
great video cheers
very nice lad, pro
pleasure to watch
Glad you enjoyed
Good timing..
tnx robo clvett ima make a OSB house for my doggie
Another great video, what nail gun is this? Also I've started creating my own videos any tips on how to get people to see it a bit more? struggling to get it out there, thanks keep up the videos
Hi Robin, any news on you roofing square?
I made the mistake of not leaving the 3mm gap when I built my house. After about month, the walls looked like the ripples on a pond and I spent a day with a circular saw kerfing the panels in situ to take the pressure out. This does not leave you feeling clever!
Jon Senior thanks for that great tip mate,
How does the hikoki stand up to bump firing into osb???
If the sheets are full size, we're screwed! They must run a bit small to account for the spacing
I was wondering the same thing. How many sheets can you fit before you are running 'off-centers''
update : already answered a few days earlier, Rob uses Conditioned Board (which I need to check out) which is 3mm smaller
@@garyharrisonuk I had a look for 1197 x 2397 osb3 conditioned board, yeah you can get it...but you are looking at £45 (inc VAT) per sheet for 18mm!! thats the best part or £20 a sheet dearer than a standard 8 x 4, think its a lot cheaper to chuck a guide on a skill saw and rip a few sheets down
Hi Robin, this might be a silly question but I was under the impression that you need 20mm edge distance on the nails so how do you nail two sheets to one stud without compromising the edge distance? I assume those studs are 47mm.
If you watch closely you will see that on the joints I nail at an angle, so the nose of the gun would be about 25mm from the joint and I aim back towards the stud, takes some practise bit it deals with that rule, hope that helps
OSB has greater strength on its long axis. I thought best practice is to install it horizontally?
Most timber frame panels that are pre manufactured are always upright it all depends on specific application and engineering details, in this instance the wall is a triangle and by default is super rigid and strong, the OSB is simply basic sheathing so no real structural element here
@@ukconstruction
Thanks much.
Great tips. I guess you could use regular 8x4 sheets and just allow for the extra space when laying out the stud wall. Is that a martinez hammer you using? And stabila levels?
hi Robin, you used the milwaukee and the hikoki nailer now, which one would you take to work with you now ?
I was just about to ask the same question.
Top chippy
What's that nailer you are using I know the brand obviously but I am interested in the model number it looks like its perfect for rapid nailing.
Milwaukee only has one M18 framing nailer so you can't buy wrong.
A há can't hammer a nail, hi just wondering the trade name of that USB board that can be used outside?
This is just the structural sheathing, the building is being clad in oak
OSB (oriented strand board) is not meant for external use untreated, its mainly used as a substrate prior to cladding or as a deck for flat roofs prior to covering.
There you go I was always under the impression that ply would be stronger that osb 🤷🏼♂️ don’t ask me why?
I suppose it’s because the ply has a solid veneer sheet on the outside?
OSB should never be put up vertical only horizontally ... as that how its desighned for shear value ... Ply wood should only be put on Vertical as thats how it is structural designed as it cups and will pop the nails after time if hung horizontal
@@SaerTurner You might want to inform Swiss Krono about this since it´s a detail that they seem to have left out of all their OSB documentation! OSB doesn´t care whether it´s horizontal or vertical. A large part of OSB sheathing is manufactured to 1197mm width, specifically so that it can be used directly in vertical orientation for studding on 600mm centres, leaving the 3mm dilation gap without needing to cut the panels. As for plywood, while I could imagine it would perform better in a certain orientation, that would depend on the number and orientation of the cores. Blanket statements coming from hearsay rather than actually reading the manufacturers technical documents or the relevant standards are how bad building techniques get propogated.
@@JonSenior I only know this form the Structural integrity testing done here in Canada and the results of the hurricane chamber and seismic room and every time the OSB vertical Failed Catastrophically and the OSB horizontally staggered held up and actually surprised us at how well it Preformed and did not fail but most of all the houses tested held up ....this is why it is recommended to go horizontally staggered
@@SaerTurner That´ll be the staggering that does it, not the orientation then. Which makes perfect sense, if the joints are aligned then you have shear lines which would be points of failure. Here in France, and in the UK, seismic activity is rarely (if ever) at a level where it poses a threat to buildings. I can understand that in north america the situation is not the same. I personally prefer studs on 500mm centres and horizontally staggered cladding, but this is not a standard european construction technique.
@@JonSenior I love these kinda Chats I am learning lots about building in European country's and differences of building codes and mandates and I also have to remeber yall in Metric over there here we frame rake walls at 8inch to 12 inch centers comman walls exterior 16 inch on center interiors 24 inch on center and here is the fun one we do engineered floor joists and trusses at 19.2 centers this one always baffles people
what are your standard or common spacing
Does this also apply to warn flat roofs that will be fibreglassed?
Is there an official uk resourse that tells you exactly what sheathing material you're allowed to use for each application with the thickness and fixing patterns? Ive been trying to find this on nhbc and building control but struggling to find the info. Thanks
Hi Mark, have you tried TRADA, they may have some details, sheathing can be so varied depending on use for example typical mass produced timber frame panels have no more than a 9mm OSB3 board, but for general domestic building work we tend to use a one size fits all so could be a roof deck or wall sheathing we typically use an 18m OSB3 or a structural Plywood such as Wisaspruce
The nailing patterns vary wildly.... factory produced timberframe can be as close as 75mm centres however on site I would aim for about 50 to 60 fixings a sheet based on a full 2440 x1220 at 400 centres
Hope that helps!
@@ukconstruction Thanks for the reply. Is wood based sheathing still the go to choice? I see there are cement and gypsum options for external sheathing too. Thanks Mark
Hiya, how does the wood expand when it's fastened in every dimension? Just wondering.
It depends on the moisture levels during the life of the building
Robin - what Gauge Nailer for the SHEATHING 18G Brad Nails Stainless ? Same as the SHED DOOR
or Thicker 16 G
We’re all waiting for you to do a compassion between the Hikoki and Milwaukee framing nailer?? Come on, which one do you prefer?
th-cam.com/video/fntekOjz120/w-d-xo.html
Does the 3mm gap apply if you are using OSB to line a room INSIDE, or just for external use? Also, if you don't have access to a framing gun, what are the best screws to use?
Hi Ollie, as a rule of thumb you allow this gap everywhere you use OSB, spax do a great flooring screw in tubs that are great with OSB
What thickness boards do you recommend? Will you also go to the effort to sheet the roof ahead of the membrain and roof tiles/slates. If so why do you take this extra step other than to strengthen the structure? Cheers. I love watching your videos
You're not a chippy!
@@Stef1487 Why? It's a reasonable question. When I worked in Holland and Germany all the roofs I worked on sheathed.
I think robin has done a bit of roller blading or ice skating before. I grew up rollerblading and I move the same way he does, the way he moves his legs, It feels weird, like I'm watching my legs on someone else's body
How strange!!! I have done both!! I still have a set of roller skates too!!!!
@@ukconstruction Gawd...now I have to go through the vid again just to learn how rollerblading legs move ..!
On site your lucky if it's even fixed
With OSB, would it be worthwhile to paint it prior to fixing to add a little of water proofing to it? Also thank you for mentioning about conditioned board (OSB3 - I just googled it) and is it painting it as well before fixing?
Hi Ian, we are cladding the building with oak on breather membrane and counter batten so the sheathing is never exposed
Hi Robin thanks for great content, just wondering what products do you use to seal cut and open edges of osb or ply, thx again
Hi Stephen, this is just a sheathing and we will be cladding with oak on battens so there is no need to seal this material
Robin Clevett is there any benefit in running a soft mastic into the 3mm gap to reduce chance of water ingress , or does that defeat the object of leaving gap 🤔
What length nails do you use for sheathing? Also what thickness OSB for sheathing. Doing my single storey extension next week!
9mm OSB, 51 mm nails Liam
12mm minimum for exterior sheathing, 50mm galvanized ring shanks.
What is the reason the manufacturer recommends a 3mm gap?
As ambient moisture changes, OSB or plywood panels will expand and contract. When you butt the panels together tightly, there's no room for expansion and this can cause buckling. Leaving a gap between panels allows them to expand and contract.
on wrong Ruff side out shinny in it also says on it this side down and hes putting it on backwards ... he know his stuff and is good and love him but hes putting it on back wards its enginered that way for a reason ......
plus he would not have to mark out the stud centers like he did as the other side has nailing lines on it for 16 24 and 19.2 centers
and his nails are to deep the must set flush or the structural value is gone .....Rob come on your better than this ..love ya but
Our OSB has no nailing lines they also recommend that the side with the writing should be laid so it can be see by the building inspector, in our case on this build there was no sheathing specified and I added it as we went for rigidity and making a more sturdy job, the OSB we have has exactly the same face both sides and the writing does not indicate which face should be in or out, I have never seen in the UK OSB with the nailing lines as we use 400mm centres and sometimes 600mm centres so the 16 inch and 24 inch would run out, I really like your comment many thanks
@@ukconstruction smooth both side oooh that would be fun on a 6-8 in12 pitch roof slippery here in Canada we have a ruff side and smooth side and ruff side ... ruff side has nail lines as we have lots of cross eyed framers that cant shoot in a straight line lol smooth has the print and is always down as after we put the walls up you can not see any thing but the Tyvek or paper on the out side ( we paper or tyvek the walls on the ground befor standing just like we build the rood on the ground and crane it up faster and safer ...we use OSB on walls floors and roofs and joists lol ........even have a framing lumber made like OSB here too dont trust it though .............random fact OSB is to be installed horizontally staggered for structural............ ply wood should be hung vertically for structural Ply wood on the horizontal will cup and pop the nails after time as the house sets ... I love OSB sheeting its stronger and alos uses up the scraps from the mill and now also Recycled materials ...... Cheers .. one again love ya and your videos .... .............. what is the worst mistake you have ever made ........ mine was building a house 2 ft to short but it worked out in the end because of the Easement lines got lucky
Hello,quick question.does the gap still apply if laying flat ? Fitting a a new roof for garage using 18mm osb,then there will be EPDM covering 🤷🏼🤦🏼♂️😎
The gap matters more, as the expansion and contraction on a flat roof with a dark roof covering is more, there are tongue and groove OSB ideal for flat roofs and these allow for the gap in production
Best to use OSB T&G boards for any flat roof, boards come in 8 x 2 with a built in expansion gap, T&G are particularly recommended for fibreglass roofs.
Robin Clevett perfect thank you !
Rob Norman thank you 👍🏼
Are you able to advise how I can get one of those nail guns without herself noticing?
Yes, grow a pair of balls.
As a residential framer in Seattle, USA, it's important not to over-penetrate the nails into your sheathing. Ask me how I know.
John so tell us how you know please.
Failed code?
@@grantcook5376 Im guessing all the sheathing fell off the timber stud walls on his farm buildings....
How do you know?
@@grantcook5376 Overpenetration of the nails will cause a reduction in sheer strength and result in a failed inspection. It's likely a heightened concern in high wind/earthquake areas, at least here in the States.
What nail length for 11mm OSB into 95mm studs? 50's ok?
Yes mate 50s are ok
Mistakes maketh the man
What size nails are you using in that gun, robin?. I assume its 90mm for the joists/rafters etc.
Yes mate always 90mm for framing and then 63mm for the sheathing
@@ukconstruction cheers mate. Appreciate the response
@@ukconstruction always Ring shank on framing or sheathing or does it depend on the nailing schedule?
Are you using ringshanks or smooth galvo nails?.
Galvanised ring shanks 63mm
Great video, but sorry your nail gun will not pull in a bowed board like a proper nail hammered in.
What kind of nails are you using?
Dimensions...
Hi Mate for sheathing like this I was using a 3.1 x 63 heavy duty galvanised collated nail from Paslode
@@ukconstruction Hmmm.... 🤔I'm living in Norway and here all the nails shorter than 75 are 2,8mm thickness. Strange...
There,s a good ankle snapper on that scaffold,no joiner worth his salt would go up there?
You could break your ankles on a kerb, I know where your coming from but with experience you just never catch the protruding poles!!!
Thats why its a Chippie up there, Joiners don't like to venture too far from their workshops...lol
@@ukconstruction I think you misunderstand my comment,I reefer to the gap between the scaffold boards which is the danger where you could catch your foot and twist the ankle without adoubt.
@@RobNorman08 A chippe ? isnt that where you get a fish from ? forgive me if Im mistaken but its a Joiner on a roof not a Chippe.
Like 👍
Great video! Like 👍 from România 😉 🍷
Why would osb be chosen over plywood?
OSB costs way less, has a more uniform density and believe it of not is stronger than plywood structurally, Its not much good when open to the elements but perfect in cases like this where it's to be clad.
Even in the elements I'd say its probably better seen a few sites fenced off with osb and it lasted a few years
@@martinknight9027 OSB sufferers terribly when exposed to the elements in comparison to ply mainly because although ply absorbs moisture quicker than OSB, ply also drys quicker and returns pretty much to its original shape, OSB retains the moisture, doesn't dry as quickly and swells up irreversibly.
I agree Rob they recommend to line a shed with osb not ply for moisture reasons so see both have pros and cons
@@RobNorman08 I did my summer house partly with OSB and the back wall in ply. The ply got soaked in a rain storm and was destroyed. The OSB had no signs of damage. I replaced the ply 1 year later as it was all rippled and didn't go back to original shape when dry. Not only did the ply permanently damage but there were woodlice all over it... woodlice hated the OSB which was like the day I laid it.
Good job it wasn't 666!
Hi Robin, great video very clear👍 yip we use 7mm ply for most of our sheathing and its wrinkly as anything🙃 I use this exact method I call it "ironing out the sheet"👍 pop over to my channel if you like im doing a renovation on my first home n a few other things go on👍😉😄
All good common sense stuff...if only the rest of the tradesmen stopped and thought about it...lol...
Your roof light cross members are supposed to be plumb and level not square to the rafters . Tut tut .
our roof light members allow once the window is fitted that the top is level from the frame and the bottom is plumb from the frame, so in effect the roof light opening is made bigger to accommodate this feature, If you lay your head trimmers flat you loose the strength maybe I will do a video now we are all tiled and the windows are fitted and explain this situation, this is also the NHBC and building control approved method for roof window installation
Ah nice one
Can I work for you mate id do it for free 😅
Overkill
Nobody except you has a gap between all the sheets. Nobody. It may be the correct way to do it but did I mention that NOBODY does it?
Actually, everyone that reads the instructions on the sheets and understands them does it.