Man, you saved me. I removed everything required to replace driveshaft on my 2210, and was in a hurry, so didn’t take photos or take notes as I usually do. Thanks for this video! You have a new subscriber.
Like you said in previous vids Rich, a perfect example showing how engineers don't consult with mechanics through the design process. Great vid, thanks and Cheers!
Thanks for posting my son has a 2305 same looking , he keeps it in my barn and I greased the thing but looks like I missed the driveshaft never knew . Really enjoy most of the stuff you do
Open the cover on the right under the steering wheel. Remove the giant C-clip with giant C-clip pliers from Amazon. Rotate the shaft so the flat machined side is away from you and drive the pin out with a long punch from Harbor freight. Be careful not to loose the pin if it falls when it is driven out. Remove all the rust from the splines on the transmission end of the shaft and it will slide back far enough to be removed in one piece. After replacing the universals, load the rear splines with plenty of grease and that will prevent the clunk you hear when the engine is shut off.
It's 5:50 in the morning here in Texas (it's gonna be 102F today), and I'm heading out to commence this job on my 2210 right after I get a cup of coffee into me. My rear u-joint catastrophically failed 🤐 at 600 hours. I'm going to look into installing an access port when I put it back together so it's possible to grease that joint.
On the 2305 the u joints can be greased with a long tapered end adapter and the whole shaft can be removed from underneath relatively easy by removing large retaining ring on front u joint and tapping out roll pin and sliding shaft forward first off trans than out.
That's such a "rat's nest" design on the internals. I mean i know it's "modern" and it needs to look more compact and all, but still. And the grease nipple, good thing you've mentioned this, i know someone who owns this and doesn't know about it. I'm pretty sure that's a failure point.
You got lucky. Very often one of the yokes are destroyed and you end up replacing the whole shaft. Have replaced a few myself at work. Deere does not offer the joint as a replacement part but i found a deere part number that is a direct fit for them. Replacement of the whole shaft is no peach and you should keep a close eye on the rubber vibration dampener on the engine side of the shaft also. They go out and can cause a mess also!
Yep, My brother got to pay john over 5 bills just to BUY the shaft because his rear joint shit the bed and broke the input shaft off the Hydro power unit. so Now I get to tear into that .... but the 800 in parts was cheaper than 1800 for a used unit or over 3500 for a new one.
Hey I know this is old but I just purchased a 2210 with loader and mower deck with 600hrs. I gave 1,000 bucks and it has maintenance records and kept inside. Any other major things to know about these?
@@johnkeller9921 From the bottom, the front of the driveshaft has a c-clip that has to be moved then a pin that needs to be driven out. 4 bolts for rear remove the fan( good time to replace this) then the shaft can be removed. u-joints are easy to grease then even with quick curpler.
A friend of mine has a subcompact not sure if that's the exact model number but he had the same problem with his drive shaft it was literally I'm thinking the way he said it in the machine and there was a grease fitting that he couldn't get to mind you it's an older gentleman and he's meticulous about grease and keeping up on stuff. Such a shity design by deer. And then to charge that much money thank goodness for Napa. Another wonderful Deere design is the way they set up their power pump steering tie rod setup you can't buy the ball joint for the end of it they charge you a few hundred dollars for the whole cylinder when you just need to replace the ball joint
What’s your trick for getting all the caps to purge grease? I have a 2320 with only 135 hours. I pulled the dash and foot board to grease the driveshaft u-joints. I can only get 3 of the four to purge grease. Both front and back. There’s one cap on each end that won’t purge. I tried heating up really well with a heat gun to help grease move through and still no luck!
Man, you saved me. I removed everything required to replace driveshaft on my 2210, and was in a hurry, so didn’t take photos or take notes as I usually do. Thanks for this video! You have a new subscriber.
Like you said in previous vids Rich, a perfect example showing how engineers don't consult with mechanics through the design process. Great vid, thanks and Cheers!
Thanks for posting my son has a 2305 same looking , he keeps it in my barn and I greased the thing but looks like I missed the driveshaft never knew . Really enjoy most of the stuff you do
Open the cover on the right under the steering wheel. Remove the giant C-clip with giant C-clip pliers from Amazon. Rotate the shaft so the flat machined side is away from you and drive the pin out with a long punch from Harbor freight. Be careful not to loose the pin if it falls when it is driven out. Remove all the rust from the splines on the transmission end of the shaft and it will slide back far enough to be removed in one piece. After replacing the universals, load the rear splines with plenty of grease and that will prevent the clunk you hear when the engine is shut off.
It's 5:50 in the morning here in Texas (it's gonna be 102F today), and I'm heading out to commence this job on my 2210 right after I get a cup of coffee into me. My rear u-joint catastrophically failed 🤐 at 600 hours. I'm going to look into installing an access port when I put it back together so it's possible to grease that joint.
On the 2305 the u joints can be greased with a long tapered end adapter and the whole shaft can be removed from underneath relatively easy by removing large retaining ring on front u joint and tapping out roll pin and sliding shaft forward first off trans than out.
I didn't see a zerk on that new cross, must've decided that you could get to it after all. Good fix Rich
That's such a "rat's nest" design on the internals. I mean i know it's "modern" and it needs to look more compact and all, but still. And the grease nipple, good thing you've mentioned this, i know someone who owns this and doesn't know about it. I'm pretty sure that's a failure point.
Having the exact same problem with my 2210. I got stuck on the U Joint. Hopefully this'll help me.
I paid $20 for my u-joint at the theujointstore.com 20mm x 55mm is the size. You can also look up UJ410 at Napa
Those have a grease Zert just a pain to grease but can be done
What do you do with the wires for the lights on the bar?
You got lucky. Very often one of the yokes are destroyed and you end up replacing the whole shaft. Have replaced a few myself at work. Deere does not offer the joint as a replacement part but i found a deere part number that is a direct fit for them. Replacement of the whole shaft is no peach and you should keep a close eye on the rubber vibration dampener on the engine side of the shaft also. They go out and can cause a mess also!
Do you have the part number handy?
Yep, My brother got to pay john over 5 bills just to BUY the shaft because his rear joint shit the bed and broke the input shaft off the Hydro power unit. so Now I get to tear into that .... but the 800 in parts was cheaper than 1800 for a used unit or over 3500 for a new one.
This was a great video!! well done.
My challenge is the front Ubolt.
What has to come apart inside to change that Ubolt?
Can't find a u-bolt in the parts diagram
Hey I know this is old but I just purchased a 2210 with loader and mower deck with 600hrs. I gave 1,000 bucks and it has maintenance records and kept inside. Any other major things to know about these?
I bet that did raise a ruckus. Well done.
Don’t forget safety squints when messing with the clips
I have a JD 2305 and the driveshaft is very easy to remove, you do have to remove to grease joints which is kind of a pain but shaft is easy to pull.
Not mine, pita!
Did you replace the driv3sfaft from the top of the machine or the bottom?
@@johnkeller9921 From the bottom, the front of the driveshaft has a c-clip that has to be moved then a pin that needs to be driven out. 4 bolts for rear remove the fan( good time to replace this) then the shaft can be removed. u-joints are easy to grease then even with quick curpler.
A friend of mine has a subcompact not sure if that's the exact model number but he had the same problem with his drive shaft it was literally I'm thinking the way he said it in the machine and there was a grease fitting that he couldn't get to mind you it's an older gentleman and he's meticulous about grease and keeping up on stuff. Such a shity design by deer. And then to charge that much money thank goodness for Napa. Another wonderful Deere design is the way they set up their power pump steering tie rod setup you can't buy the ball joint for the end of it they charge you a few hundred dollars for the whole cylinder when you just need to replace the ball joint
Where did you find the u joint, dealers around me are saying I have to buy the whole driveline. Any help would be great
I don't know if you got it fixed yet but if you haven't, it is Napa Part # UJS UJ395
To here you say its easy..Here we go..well just watching You my here we go..just got up and went..better yet my go has falling out..LOl
hi what year is the zetor 5340 john from uk good to hear zetor is getting a good review .
2000
Thanks
I'm in a middle of installing a 4045 tear 3 johndeere motor in a 1970 chevy c10
This sounds amazing. Share a build album with us over at debossgarage.com/drivetribe !
common problem on thoses modules. I work on thoses models once awhile. I'm a johndeere tech.
What’s your trick for getting all the caps to purge grease? I have a 2320 with only 135 hours. I pulled the dash and foot board to grease the driveshaft u-joints. I can only get 3 of the four to purge grease. Both front and back. There’s one cap on each end that won’t purge. I tried heating up really well with a heat gun to help grease move through and still no luck!
Another video I watched a guy was sorry he didn't do both joints, because he had to tear it down twice, and redo the front.. peq
Looks just like a steering shaft joint for a peterbilt...
Now do the front u joint . And demonstrate how to grease both, without 🤬 swearing
Slicker than a hot prom girl!!!!
nice vid thx for posting