If your needles are getting stuck while you are saddle stitching try this little trick, give it a little twist to clear the wide part of the stitching hole.
Yes this is using a diamond stitching chisel, when using the correct saddle stitching technique the thread will align itself to be "slanted". As for Hermes I am not sure, but there are machines that imitate the look of a saddle stitching but not the strength of it.
Hi @HejMette , I think I have covered this in another video, but I can't remember which one at the moment. But the short answer is, when you punch the round holes you are removing material, which not only weakens the overall structure of the leather, but it lowers the amount of material between the 2 holes. It puts the closest internal areas of your stitching golesdirectly next to each other, so when you pull the thread tight there is a higher chance of it acting cheese wire and ripping through the sewing line. Also the nature of the diamond stitching opens holds the threads in place as the holes close up. You can get diamond stitching holes closer to the edge of your work, and of course... they just look nicer.
That is a neat bit of info been struggling with this for almost a year. Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
This is great... I have struggling a times.
Thanks mate. 👍🏾
Glad it helped
Thanks for the helpful tips!!
Nice, thanks for this great tip!
Let me know if you have any other questions that I can help with 🙂
❤❤❤good
Awesome! Thanks!
How do I do the slanted stitches? Also this is called a diamond hole? What kind does Hermes use?
Yes this is using a diamond stitching chisel, when using the correct saddle stitching technique the thread will align itself to be "slanted".
As for Hermes I am not sure, but there are machines that imitate the look of a saddle stitching but not the strength of it.
What kind of leather pu you use ?... because i need a leather pu with cork in the bottom side
I do not use PU Leather so cannot recommend any.
What can i use to achieve the holes?
Hi, have a look at this video on stitching chisels th-cam.com/video/Dt12R8Q1UiE/w-d-xo.html
What is the purpose of a diamond hole vs a round hole?
Hi @HejMette , I think I have covered this in another video, but I can't remember which one at the moment.
But the short answer is, when you punch the round holes you are removing material, which not only weakens the overall structure of the leather, but it lowers the amount of material between the 2 holes.
It puts the closest internal areas of your stitching golesdirectly next to each other, so when you pull the thread tight there is a higher chance of it acting cheese wire and ripping through the sewing line.
Also the nature of the diamond stitching opens holds the threads in place as the holes close up.
You can get diamond stitching holes closer to the edge of your work, and of course... they just look nicer.