I love my Jones bars for both hand positions as well as being able to use the front of the loop to lash the front bag to. I have not had to change lever angles to get things to play nice.
A front rack is a nice piece of hardware to avoid this precise problem. I put my roll bag on the rack and a smaller handlebar bag that fits between my cables and levers.
I really like the Shimano brake levers for the reasons you mentioned, and they also fit my hands best in terms of ergonomics - I prefer braking with just my index finger and the Shimanos do that oh so well. Once you stop using the OEM Shimano brake fluid they can be made to work in cold temps, too. I actually use a suspension fork oil in mine for a few years now, because of the problems in the cold with the stock fluid. Around christmas it was -10°C here and I had no issues.
Is that a bad thing? At least with my wireless shifting, fully internal cable routed Gravel bike there is absolutely no problem with bags. Can't say that for my hardtail....
Just a random thought. If you're connecting a bike up from new for bikepacking, could you fit a 90 degree banjo at the lever to route the hoses completely away from your bag? It might be a solution for really problematic levers like the SRAM.
The Anything Cradle has worked out well for me too. I also make sure that the cradle points downward instead of straight out from the bars. Keeps the weight lower and closer to the head tube
I have the Salsa and Blackburn similar cradles. I have found with generally straight out arms and not too heavy bags, the front end can feel noodly from the cantilevered weight. Maybe pointing down more to get the bag less up high and cantilevered is the trick.
Thanks. I was having this question. I had usually used backpacks and frame bags. Recently I won a Green Guru handlebar bag from Peopleforbikes for completing a 1,200 mile (I did 2000) challenge. Then came the question how to put the bag on my classic Marin and to clean everything so as not to soil the wonderful colors of the Green Guru bag. Very helpful thanks.
Stand-off brackets, whether the more expensive bike brands or the infamous $15 carbon light bar from Amazon (you showed one at the end), have always been my choice. The extra 50 to 75mm doesn't affect steering that much and I feel the much more secure and stable bag assembly is a good trade-off for said steering change. I've also had the idea (never tried it) to find a light duty compression spring with an I.D. to fit over the cable housing or hyd. hose and fixed (taped) at the vulnerable bends. This design feature is found in many industrial apps like air hose assemblies which get moved and jerked around a lot.
I've not noticed any issues with my fat bike's Shimano mt500s in the winter in Breckenridge. But you could also run a better mineral oil like Pentosin 7.1 which has a temp rating of -40c to 110c outside of which you be frozen solid or boiled. I ran ancient Shimano brakes for well over 10 years on the same bleed with zero issues using the stuff. mt500s just got fed it too, no issues.
Would be a dream haha, but we are far away from trust in wireless brakes. Maybe there is something that works like that, cryptographed connections, etc, but I just think: "and if it fails on a curve when I'm at 70 km/h or more?".
The same rules apply, dry fit it and see how it works, but in general, the lines will likely be placed between head tube and bag. A Bumper Bar or something of the like has good use with drop bars.
the shimano cues line has some brake levers which run parallel to the clamp, wondering if there are people using these for bikepacking? (CUES BL-U8000)
Those "cheap" handlebar extenders now come as an integrated battery pack that house two 18650 lipstick batteries. Widely available from Far East sellers.
If you are thinking about mounting extra crap to you bars anyway, you should at least consider some sort of time-trail bars.......in addition to the obvious, they work great as a part-time luggage-rack 😎👌
It's always fun receiving review bikes and figuring out what to do with cables/hoses. It's really a never-ending struggle.
I love my Jones bars for both hand positions as well as being able to use the front of the loop to lash the front bag to. I have not had to change lever angles to get things to play nice.
A front rack is a nice piece of hardware to avoid this precise problem. I put my roll bag on the rack and a smaller handlebar bag that fits between my cables and levers.
absolutely.
I've taped mine all together and use a Topeak Frontloader, and that seems to work well so far. Thanks!
I can also recommend the formula cura brakes in terms of cable angle.
I really like the Shimano brake levers for the reasons you mentioned, and they also fit my hands best in terms of ergonomics - I prefer braking with just my index finger and the Shimanos do that oh so well. Once you stop using the OEM Shimano brake fluid they can be made to work in cold temps, too. I actually use a suspension fork oil in mine for a few years now, because of the problems in the cold with the stock fluid. Around christmas it was -10°C here and I had no issues.
This was very helpful - Thank you!
Don’t worry! By 2025, the industry will be selling aero mountain bikes with fully integrated cables into a one piece cockpit. Thanks, bike industry!!!
Is that a bad thing? At least with my wireless shifting, fully internal cable routed Gravel bike there is absolutely no problem with bags. Can't say that for my hardtail....
2025? It’s already here
don't give them any more ideas. delete this post immediately!
God save us 😉
Just a random thought. If you're connecting a bike up from new for bikepacking, could you fit a 90 degree banjo at the lever to route the hoses completely away from your bag? It might be a solution for really problematic levers like the SRAM.
Great idea, I might try that down the road, thanks for the suggestion.
The difficulty here is getting a metric elbow that plays nice with different banjos and fluid’s
How would one go about finding a banjo bolt compatible with Shimano levers?
I love the Salsa EXP Anything cradle and it works with all my bikes (unless I use the Surly Moloko bars)
The Anything Cradle has worked out well for me too. I also make sure that the cradle points downward instead of straight out from the bars. Keeps the weight lower and closer to the head tube
I have the Salsa and Blackburn similar cradles. I have found with generally straight out arms and not too heavy bags, the front end can feel noodly from the cantilevered weight. Maybe pointing down more to get the bag less up high and cantilevered is the trick.
Thanks. I was having this question. I had usually used backpacks and frame bags. Recently I won a Green Guru handlebar bag from Peopleforbikes for completing a 1,200 mile (I did 2000) challenge. Then came the question how to put the bag on my classic Marin and to clean everything so as not to soil the wonderful colors of the Green Guru bag. Very helpful thanks.
Just about to start a new bike build and was thinking about this very topic. Thanks for the video. 🙂
You found the video before it was even public, Thanks for watching David.
Stand-off brackets, whether the more expensive bike brands or the infamous $15 carbon light bar from Amazon (you showed one at the end), have always been my choice. The extra 50 to 75mm doesn't affect steering that much and I feel the much more secure and stable bag assembly is a good trade-off for said steering change.
I've also had the idea (never tried it) to find a light duty compression spring with an I.D. to fit over the cable housing or hyd. hose and fixed (taped) at the vulnerable bends. This design feature is found in many industrial apps like air hose assemblies which get moved and jerked around a lot.
Adding the Restrap bumper bar really helps resolve this problem
Very good summary, worked through much of this, also like the heads up on some new gear options.....👍
Magura has 90 degree banjo fittings for lever side. Super nice to setup with bag, especially on Surly corner bar.
Well done! Very comprehensive!😀
I ran my cables over the top of the flat bar. Not pretty, but works with a big roll.
I've not noticed any issues with my fat bike's Shimano mt500s in the winter in Breckenridge. But you could also run a better mineral oil like Pentosin 7.1 which has a temp rating of -40c to 110c outside of which you be frozen solid or boiled. I ran ancient Shimano brakes for well over 10 years on the same bleed with zero issues using the stuff. mt500s just got fed it too, no issues.
That's why l love wireless brakes
Would be a dream haha, but we are far away from trust in wireless brakes. Maybe there is something that works like that, cryptographed connections, etc, but I just think: "and if it fails on a curve when I'm at 70 km/h or more?".
So useful! Thanks a lot!
Was hoping to see some tips on length for dropbars since the cables are much more right behind the bags...
The same rules apply, dry fit it and see how it works, but in general, the lines will likely be placed between head tube and bag. A Bumper Bar or something of the like has good use with drop bars.
Thank you.
the shimano cues line has some brake levers which run parallel to the clamp, wondering if there are people using these for bikepacking? (CUES BL-U8000)
I love your videos but 1 thing i can't get clear. How do you set-up your earobars an how do you connect them together?
Interesting channel! Best regards André
Also check out the Sexy Racks by Ballern Cycleworks!
This is why I might get a scott spark. But a lot of their parts look Scott specific.
Mechanical brakes for the win!
Those "cheap" handlebar extenders now come as an integrated battery pack that house two 18650 lipstick batteries. Widely available from Far East sellers.
Who make 90 or 45 degreee elbows for brake lines??
That would solve all the issues.
Coaster brakes don't have this problem. 😉
Go figure! You'd find YET ANOTHER reason why SRAM brakes suck.
If you are thinking about mounting extra crap to you bars anyway, you should at least consider some sort of time-trail bars.......in addition to the obvious, they work great as a part-time luggage-rack 😎👌
Only one solution with brake housing : salsa anything cradle. Case dismissed !
Agreed. But the downside is, that it's quite heavy. Especially if you already pack light. Still the best harness system to me
I made my own similar thing with an old stem and a curved aluminum plate. Works a treat and I can zip tie all my cables to the stem.
@@mcWilma how heavy are we talking here? Is 300 grams gonna break the bank on a 60 to 80 lb rig?
Odd, I have a different solution, it works great and weighs less than that cradle..
I'm waiting for electronic braking
That fat bike looks sexy af
SRAM Guides are terrible brakes.
You always sound like you have a sore throat
Humans are all different.
@@BIKEPACKINGcom that was a brilliant reply, i sound like donald duck sometimes. I will continue to watch your videos!
More fat bike content please