The down and dirty, how an engine works was great. Good general knowledge for anyone that doesn't normally work on engines. The donuts for the body to frame sounds like the winning idea to me.
Guys can criticise you for not using fancy tools, but you are working with the sort of gear and tools that most of us have in our shops. And what you do with them is a big inspiration to us. Keep up the fantastic work and keep up the great videos you and Jamie are doing.
If you changed the bearings, new oil pump, new rings and hone the cyls,and lap in the valves. It will freshen up that engine up without the machine shop.
I don't always comment. But give you "Likes". What you do with metal is both amazing and artistic. Love you're shows on television and TH-cam! Can't wait to see the chopped top VW when it's done.
I'm so glad to see companies finally stepping up and supporting Ian with their products, they couldn't hitch their brand to a more rock solid and deserving guy. I hope the future gets even better for the two of you 👍
The fiber gears were used to reduce noise, some model a Ford's have them and my experience they get brittle with age. A new one might be a good investment.
Excellent video and explanation as usual, there is not to many guys like us left. In the throw away society unfortunately. But hopefully we can still reach those kids who still love the use their hands and minds to make some cool and unique things. Also a shout out to your better half jamiefor her personal video production. Cheers to you both.
I watched this a couple days ago and enjoyed the basic class on how the engine works. My dad's first new car was a 49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. When it was 7 years old, he disassembled the engine in the engine compartment and rebuilt it. I inherited it in 1960 when he bought a new Pontiac. I drove it until 1962. It was still running on Dad's rebuilt job. Thanks for reminding of the good old days.
I built my first willy’s when I was 15yrs old. I installed the F-head engine in mine since the Flathead (L-head engine)was missing. I used a 1bbl carb off a 60’s model ford straight six. doing a 1” over stock body mount allows the hood to be flat unmolested. had an 1.5” clearance to create an offset air cleaner horn. Luv your work Dude 😎
I had an M38-A1 with the F-head. Pretty cool weird motor. I blew a head gasket on it, and we fixed it after resurfacing the head. Later my bro dropped a rod. I advised him on swapping the engine. With a spare we got from our neighbor. Luckily our neighbor wanted his old pickup made into a trailer so we helped him with that and he gave us the unneeded drivetrain parts.
Many thanks for all your episodes...just had open heart surgery...22 days in ICU..finally had a chance, and time on my back, to catch up on most of your productions..your humour and interesting work really helped me get through all...sounds a bit lame but thanks for all.❤
Anyone can learn how to use a centre punch. But to look at a car and have a practical vision and make it look awesome is a talent only a select few like Ian possess.
Ian there's a crack in the middle off the block between the water jacket and head stud. It's going to give you problems and blow the head gasket. Problems Problems....
I had a 53 Chevy pickup, that I started out from Vegas to drive to New York, and that camshaft gear was made out of fibrous material, and it sheared or strip the gears whatever you want to call it. Needless to say we had to haul it back to Vegas and pull the engine apart period we had to put a new camshaft and of course a metal gear, whatever kind of metal it was made out of. That was in 1976. So when you said that gear was made out of some virus material it made me remember that . Good luck with that engine😊
I really dig your show. I like how the teacher/student dynamic between Ian and Jamie comes through the camera. It gives me a more realistic, 1st person perspective because Ian is actually teaching Jamie. I'm not much of a hands on car guy; I'm a music guy. Piecing together musical ideas when I "write" (make up) songs is not dissimilar to what Ian does with his art. I watch Ian's shows for inspiration. I find his creative process and his approach to making something out of an idea very informative, like letting the piece he's working on tell him what it needs. With Jamie behind the camera, I am now learning the nitty gritty basics about car stuff that I'm guessing most of your viewers likely take for granted.
The carb that you need i believe is the holley 1908. It was for a 144 c.i ford so the jetting should be pretty close too. This was at one time a common topic on the cj2a page.
Hi Ian! I met you and your wife at SEMA in 2019... I grew up in Missouri (we pronounce it "misery", about 150 miles north of where Gene Winfield is from.). I live in Colorado now but I'm planning on moving to Golden Valley, AZ this Spring and building a barndominium so I can produce a youtube channel on basic engine work that can be safely done in a one or two car garage on a budget. After owning and operating a machine shop for a number of years, I would not recommend taking on clients because it only takes one bad client to make your life miserable. I plan on building engines and selling them to people at weekend shows. Absolutely not going to build specific engines for someone else. You're WAY too talented to waste your gift on trying to build a concept that someone else has!😊
Ian, I would advise you to have the block magna fluxed just to be sure there are no cracks in it. My block looked good so I put it all together. The first time I started it I found water in the oil and found I had a cracked block. Save yourself the posiblety of that happening in this case. Most times they can Mag a block in 1 to 2 days. As far as the body to frame mounts you can get them in 1" 1 1/2" and 2". The difference is almost not negligible. 😊
Jamie, I forgot to ask, that new shirt that Ian is wearing that your friend designed with the Von Dutch flying eye, will that be available to us in the near future?
The hood and body you have is for the flathead engine, when they came out with the F. head engine, which is what you have , they change things just a little and made a high hood for using that engine. They must have jacked up the tub, kept the fenders and forward sheet metal the same height and made the high hood. the clearance between the floorboard and the top of the transmission is a close one, so put the top on your transmission before you finalize the body mount shims. Also I think there is supposed to be a flat mounting /spacer plate between the bell housing and the back of the block, now supposed to be any spaces showing between the bell housing and the block . Might have to move your front engine mounts about 1/4 inch. Looks good . carb swap sounds good.
I don't know how you stay so calm when people chime in about your skills or how you do something. Like you many of us have done things for so long we know our way and the right way. I'm sure the guy who commented about the drill press will suggest you put smaller front tires on the jeep to get the engine a little lower so the valve cover fits. 🤪
From the movie Quick Change (1990) starring Bill Murray as Grimm. Bank Guard: "What the Hell kind of clown are you?" Grimm: "The crying on the inside kind, I guess."
Hey dude..when you call it an engine..you are correct...motors are in electric cars...so tell them to step off. Great show...love how you and your lady play off each other.
Just like the aorta in the heart, SA node in the top of the atrial and pass it down to the Ventricles and all over again and again your whole life it's amazing... Same Same...
Ford had an up-flow carb # RAPartsinc 312954. I have seen guys cap off a short piece of square tubing, cut two holes in it on the same side. The carb mounts to the tubing and the fuel air mix goes up into the tubing and over to the engine and back down into the head. This is very much like a Ford 8N tractor motor.
"...was extremely satisfying to watch..." you succinctly summed up my entire experience and obsession with Ian's shows, Jamie; I have neither the talent nor ambition, so I get my fabrication kicks vicariously and thank you for that... 😉👍👏
Great job on the explanation of how an engine works. I see Jamie is learning more and more each day. Thanks for the service announcement, "just say no to Crack!" 🤦 belts are so overrated😁
You could give it a light hone with new rings, bearings and lap in the valves. But it will probably run ok the way it is. They aren’t a performance engine and they’re usually bulletproof. So you can go either way. Put spacer blocks between the body and the chassis. 1” would help and you’d hardly notice the difference.
I posted on episode 2 to help with my experience. The overhead valve cover WILL fit under the low hood of all early jeeps to the CJ3A models. The CJ3B and later models used the overhead engine but had higher hoods to fit the higher profile of the overhead engine. The only reason for the higher hood was to make room to clear the carburetor. The way to keep the low hood is to use a lower profile early Ford carburetor. Some owners cut the hood to clear the carb and made a hood scoop to cover the carb. I built a cj3a jeep and put the overhead engine using a lower profile Ford carburetor and it worked great.
Autolight carbs off of early 1960 s and there’s a Carter carb that works great can’t remember the number of it you’ll have plenty of room with them and they work great
As always, you guys do great work. Lots of useful and valuable information regarding motor mounts. I personally enjoy the speed you work. It appears you have a plan and a vision. You’re not just running around the shop Frantically. With the help of Jamie, your videos are peaceful and calming. Awmmmmmmmmmm (insert yoga Lotus position.)
Rick Pewe's jeep "tator" is a 2a with the fhead and ford 1904 carb. I have $100 china knock off 1904 cab and it works well. You have to knotch to the valve cover and a 1" body lift helps.
Take a look at the air cleaners used on 66-77 ford broncos with the inline 6, or 80-86 broncos, and 73-86 f-series and econolines with the 300 inline 6. They mount on a Carter YF/YFA single barrel carb. They might just be the ticket to hood clearance. They orient the filter to the side and lower, about even with the carb.
The timing gear is a fiber gear with a metal center, for body mount I would use hockey pucks they're cheap and easily available and they can slightly raise the body for valve cover clearance maybe maybe carb clearance just an idea you add as many as necessary whatever Jamie wants 😊
Yes, that is an “F” head engine. They have exhaust valves in the block and intake valves in the head. Your CJ2A is designed for the flathead engine. The later jeeps that used OHV engines had a taller hood and cowl to allow clearance for the taller engine. Probably the easiest fix for hood clearance would be to build an simple elbow adapter to install a side draft carb.
Keep used 3 different engines, flathead that had the valves in the block, L head that had the valves in the head and F head that had valves in the head and block. Hope this helps.
The jeep engine is called an F head. 1/2 the valves in the block,1/2 the valves in the head. What we call a flathead engine, with all valves in the block, is officially an L head engine. Glad you found that head bolt that is under the carburetor.
Coming along very well with the jeep project. Explaining the mysteries of a combustion engine to the Mrs. is an excellent idea to continue with, she will be wrenching along with you just like Emily from 'Flying Sparks Garage'. Thanks for the great content, I enjoy watching and learning.
Your timing gear that caught fire is a phenolic gear. Phenolic Gears exhibits superior shear force, help reduce machinery noise, absorbs destructive vibration unlike metal gears, phenolic is non-conductive, protects the mating metal gear train, and are known to outlast metal gears under severe continuous service
The Cam gear is most likely a Bakelite style gear and could be replaced with a cast or alloy gear. Just a PSA, Bakelite is made using Asbestos so be careful handling old and worn items containing it.
I agree with your decision Ian and Jamie: try to run that engine with just a bit of cleanup. No need to tear it apart YET. Magna flux is a good idea but where you live, it may not be quick. Also I would add the 1 1/2” body mount spacers, will give you at least 1” more clearance when things are all said and done. Hope to see you two again at the Grand National Roadster Show (GNRS) and Santa Maria! Jerry:>)
I thought you might of stuck a vw carbie on it😅 ,but i think the best option is a weber side draft you would be able to get parts easier for it ,just need to make up a adapter that might be the easy way, I think yes you still need to put rubber mounts between the body and frame,would they normally have them ,i honestly no nothing but the old jeeps,just know this will look so good when its finished
Nice fabrication on the motor mount brackets. The height problem for the valve cover shouldn't be an issue... since it almost or barely fits with the body sitting on the chassis, then when you put the body mounts on, it should clear with no problem. Stock body mounts are probably in the area of 1/2 to 1" tall. As for the carb, a side draft would be the most elegant way to get the clearance. If you want a vertical carb. check out the Holly 1904 carb that others have mentioned. It looks much shorter than most one barrel carbs, With the body mounts in place, a shorty air filter may fit, and still be able to close the hood.
Great explanation on the operation of the engine. In very simple term, just remember Suck, Bang, Blow. As for the people saying what THEY think you are doing wrong, I don't see them building anything.
hockey pucks off Amazon makes great body mounts,I’ve used them numerous times. the ford 140-160 straight six is the Carburetor I used. after learning to weld/braze I modified the carb port of the head to accept a progressive weber.
Hockey pucks have more resiliency than the stock 1/4” thick slice of rubber, having run them for over 20yrs on my 47’2a and 51’ 473 willys truck I dissagree with you
Please disregard what these other people say about your work. If they think they can run with you I got to find out what they are drinking. Very few are at your level and some people want to tell you how to do things. You can take a box of bottle caps and make a car and most of us just see bottle caps. You and Jamie are a great team.
Well done guys. That’s the second oddball engine design I’ve seen in a couple of days. Farm Craft is disassembling a John Deere dozer and the engine has a water jacket in the valve cover. It’s good to see Summit is helping you guys out with engine parts, to me there’s nothing wrong with sponsorship as long as it’s clearly declared as you did. Lucky you decided to fix that motor or all those parts would have gone to waste😉. I think that old low compression/ low power donk will be fine, I’ll bet it won’t even burn oil if you give it a hone and the rings are good. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
Make the side draft. It's just tubing with a carb mount. like the intake you built for the chopper with the lawn mower seat and the fat tires on it. Or lower the engine. If parts have oil on them they can be flammable.I think that engine will run not sure how long but it's worth a shot.well good luck Take care.
Comment - I was born in 1946, my first car was a 1946 Dodge business coupe in 1964. The inspection stamps all around the car were on my birthday. And now this... go figure, cause I can't - BTW i once lived behind the "Barn" bar on Route 66. THANK YOU BOTH for these videos !!!!
I see a new fuel pump, and it's still the mechanical kind, I would use an electronic pump and blank off the old mounting place on the block. It will give you minimal HP gains but some is better than nothing, same goes for an electric water pump.
weber side draft 40 DCOE would be fine for that engine. They are commonly used on all sorts of "production class" road race cars. Ferrari used them back in the day : )
I've heard of side-drafts from a Harley Davidsons being used on VW 4 cyl applications.. This isn't much different in displacement size.. Something to consider.. I know you like the one of a kind build and having to make things function on the whim...
That's pretty neat. I've never seen an engine with a "combination" valve train (overhead and F-head) like that one. I was wondering if you plan to have hardened valve seats installed - sort of needed if you plan to use unleaded fuel. I think (not completely sure) that you'd only need them for the exhaust valves but just thought I'd throw that out there. I really enjoy your work and have learned a LOT! My welds between the Vicegrips and the parts I'm welding together have gotten much stronger and harder to separate 🙂
Gotta love summit racing I live in-between the original summit racing and jegs racing here in Ohio and Summit is my choice of the two . Keep up the good work
nice, i added some bob drake round rubber body isolators to give me just a little more room on my 40 COE. i have extras if you want to experiment. let me know. im local.
You should google wwII Jeep videos, they really put them through their paces! There’s one where the Jeep gets air and I swear the passenger hurt his back! Lol
Appreciate the educational portion as well as the fabrication skills. I've built multiple replicas. Bradley GTII, Sterling, Lotus Super 7, working on my 4th Lamborghini. Always pick up new ideas from your shows. Also, kudos to Jamie for great video skills.
Hey Ian... on the carburetor issue, what I think would be really cool (if you can find one) would be to fabricate a short 90° adapter and mount a side draft on it. Your thoughts?😊
The down and dirty, how an engine works was great. Good general knowledge for anyone that doesn't normally work on engines. The donuts for the body to frame sounds like the winning idea to me.
Guys can criticise you for not using fancy tools, but you are working with the sort of gear and tools that most of us have in our shops. And what you do with them is a big inspiration to us. Keep up the fantastic work and keep up the great videos you and Jamie are doing.
If you changed the bearings, new oil pump, new rings and hone the cyls,and lap in the valves. It will freshen up that engine up without the machine shop.
I don't always comment. But give you "Likes". What you do with metal is both amazing and artistic. Love you're shows on television and TH-cam! Can't wait to see the chopped top VW when it's done.
Consider using a taller rubber body mounts to lift the body above the frame for more engine clearance.
I'm so glad to see companies finally stepping up and supporting Ian with their products, they couldn't hitch their brand to a more rock solid and deserving guy. I hope the future gets even better for the two of you 👍
Ian and Jamie, I really enjoy your videos. I keep expecting Victor to show up with a project to throw a wrench in your builds!😄
The carb you're looking for is a Holley 1904. Used on lots of different cars/trucks including IH scouts and pickups.
The fiber gears were used to reduce noise, some model a Ford's have them and my experience they get brittle with age. A new one might be a good investment.
The Bakelite "fibre" gear also is constructed with asbestos so it's best to rep[lace them.
Ignore the haters Ian 😂 You gotta love Jamies excitement on this build 🥰 nice lesson on the ice engine 👍
After your engine discussion, I can't wait to see the 5 minute explanation of how an automatic transmission works. Talk about magic...
Excellent video and explanation as usual, there is not to many guys like us left. In the throw away society unfortunately. But hopefully we can still reach those kids who still love the use their hands and minds to make some cool and unique things. Also a shout out to your better half jamiefor her personal video production. Cheers to you both.
I watched this a couple days ago and enjoyed the basic class on how the engine works. My dad's first new car was a 49 Plymouth Special Deluxe. When it was 7 years old, he disassembled the engine in the engine compartment and rebuilt it. I inherited it in 1960 when he bought a new Pontiac. I drove it until 1962. It was still running on Dad's rebuilt job. Thanks for reminding of the good old days.
First thing we learned in auto shop ,in high school. Intake,compression,power,and exhaust. 4 stroke internal combustion engine.
I.E......Suck, Squeeze, Bang n Blow !
= 4 stroke.
Hilarious! What is this a talk show!! Too funny, love
You guys, keep em comin y’all,
Big fan 4 years! Thanks 🇺🇸🤘🏽🛻
I built my first willy’s when I was 15yrs old. I installed the F-head engine in mine since the Flathead (L-head engine)was missing. I used a 1bbl carb off a 60’s model ford straight six. doing a 1” over stock body mount allows the hood to be flat unmolested. had an 1.5” clearance to create an offset air cleaner horn. Luv your work Dude 😎
I had an M38-A1 with the F-head. Pretty cool weird motor. I blew a head gasket on it, and we fixed it after resurfacing the head. Later my bro dropped a rod. I advised him on swapping the engine. With a spare we got from our neighbor. Luckily our neighbor wanted his old pickup made into a trailer so we helped him with that and he gave us the unneeded drivetrain parts.
Getting stuff from Summit is almost like Christmas.
Many thanks for all your episodes...just had open heart surgery...22 days in ICU..finally had a chance, and time on my back, to catch up on most of your productions..your humour and interesting work really helped me get through all...sounds a bit lame but thanks for all.❤
Wow, all the best.
Get well soon! Im happy to know it helped you in your recovery ❤️🩹 🙏
Anyone can learn how to use a centre punch. But to look at a car and have a practical vision and make it look awesome is a talent only a select few like Ian possess.
Ian there's a crack in the middle off the block between the water jacket and head stud. It's going to give you problems and blow the head gasket. Problems Problems....
I had a 53 Chevy pickup, that I started out from Vegas to drive to New York, and that camshaft gear was made out of fibrous material, and it sheared or strip the gears whatever you want to call it. Needless to say we had to haul it back to Vegas and pull the engine apart period we had to put a new camshaft and of course a metal gear, whatever kind of metal it was made out of. That was in 1976. So when you said that gear was made out of some virus material it made me remember that . Good luck with that engine😊
Yes they're designed to strip.
I really dig your show. I like how the teacher/student dynamic between Ian and Jamie comes through the camera. It gives me a more realistic, 1st person perspective because Ian is actually teaching Jamie. I'm not much of a hands on car guy; I'm a music guy. Piecing together musical ideas when I "write" (make up) songs is not dissimilar to what Ian does with his art. I watch Ian's shows for inspiration. I find his creative process and his approach to making something out of an idea very informative, like letting the piece he's working on tell him what it needs. With Jamie behind the camera, I am now learning the nitty gritty basics about car stuff that I'm guessing most of your viewers likely take for granted.
Thank you!
@@fullcustomIan It's my pleasure.
Like he said always a hoot and never to old to learn stuff ....👽👍 Keep looking up ..🛸🖖....🙄👍
The carb that you need i believe is the holley 1908.
It was for a 144 c.i ford so the jetting should be pretty close too.
This was at one time a common topic on the cj2a page.
A 1 inch body lift helps too.
I love how u explain simple things to some of us simple people..thats cool..😮.
Hi Ian! I met you and your wife at SEMA in 2019... I grew up in Missouri (we pronounce it "misery", about 150 miles north of where Gene Winfield is from.). I live in Colorado now but I'm planning on moving to Golden Valley, AZ this Spring and building a barndominium so I can produce a youtube channel on basic engine work that can be safely done in a one or two car garage on a budget. After owning and operating a machine shop for a number of years, I would not recommend taking on clients because it only takes one bad client to make your life miserable. I plan on building engines and selling them to people at weekend shows. Absolutely not going to build specific engines for someone else. You're WAY too talented to waste your gift on trying to build a concept that someone else has!😊
Ian, you need to take Jamie to the IN-N-OUT Winter Nationals...I'm sure she'd get a kick out of that..
Ian, I would advise you to have the block magna fluxed just to be sure there are no cracks in it. My block looked good so I put it all together. The first time I started it I found water in the oil and found I had a cracked block. Save yourself the posiblety of that happening in this case. Most times they can Mag a block in 1 to 2 days.
As far as the body to frame mounts you can get them in 1" 1 1/2" and 2". The difference is almost not negligible. 😊
Jamie, I forgot to ask, that new shirt that Ian is wearing that your friend designed with the Von Dutch flying eye, will that be available to us in the near future?
Ah tye internal combustion engine as explained by Dr Rouselle , pay attention class 🤓.... 😂😂 great video Ian and Jamie 👍
Summit is a great company to work with and they have excellent tech support
The hood and body you have is for the flathead engine, when they came out with the F. head engine, which is what you have , they change things just a little and made a high hood for using that engine. They must have jacked up the tub, kept the fenders and forward sheet metal the same height and made the high hood. the clearance between the floorboard and the top of the transmission is a close one, so put the top on your transmission before you finalize the body mount shims. Also I think there is supposed to be a flat mounting /spacer plate between the bell housing and the back of the block, now supposed to be any spaces showing between the bell housing and the block . Might have to move your front engine mounts about 1/4 inch.
Looks good . carb swap sounds good.
I don't know how you stay so calm when people chime in about your skills or how you do something. Like you many of us have done things for so long we know our way and the right way. I'm sure the guy who commented about the drill press will suggest you put smaller front tires on the jeep to get the engine a little lower so the valve cover fits. 🤪
Great old Jeep! Glad to see you building an early Jeep!!!
From the movie Quick Change (1990) starring Bill Murray as Grimm.
Bank Guard: "What the Hell kind of clown are you?"
Grimm: "The crying on the inside kind, I guess."
I think a body raise of 1-2 “ will resolve your carburetor height , that’s a good and Inexpensive idea !
They have around 2'' mounts from factory.
Hey dude..when you call it an engine..you are correct...motors are in electric cars...so tell them to step off. Great show...love how you and your lady play off each other.
You work like all of us do. SWAG it! The Tim “the tool man Taylor aka Ian “full custom” Roussel of the garage!
Just like the aorta in the heart, SA node in the top of the atrial and pass it down to the Ventricles and all over again and again your whole life it's amazing... Same Same...
Ford had an up-flow carb # RAPartsinc 312954. I have seen guys cap off a short piece of square tubing, cut two holes in it on the same side. The carb mounts to the tubing and the fuel air mix goes up into the tubing and over to the engine and back down into the head. This is very much like a Ford 8N tractor motor.
"...was extremely satisfying to watch..." you succinctly summed up my entire experience and obsession with Ian's shows, Jamie; I have neither the talent nor ambition, so I get my fabrication kicks vicariously and thank you for that... 😉👍👏
the carb from a ford 6 cyl with a glass bowl, 1950.s , its a holly somthing 4 , it was used on ramblers and some 6 cyl
internatinals.
Great job on the explanation of how an engine works. I see Jamie is learning more and more each day. Thanks for the service announcement, "just say no to Crack!" 🤦 belts are so overrated😁
You could give it a light hone with new rings, bearings and lap in the valves. But it will probably run ok the way it is. They aren’t a performance engine and they’re usually bulletproof. So you can go either way. Put spacer blocks between the body and the chassis. 1” would help and you’d hardly notice the difference.
I posted on episode 2 to help with my experience. The overhead valve cover WILL fit under the low hood of all early jeeps to the CJ3A models. The CJ3B and later models used the overhead engine but had higher hoods to fit the higher profile of the overhead engine. The only reason for the higher hood was to make room to clear the carburetor. The way to keep the low hood is to use a lower profile early Ford carburetor. Some owners cut the hood to clear the carb and made a hood scoop to cover the carb. I built a cj3a jeep and put the overhead engine using a lower profile Ford carburetor and it worked great.
Autolight carbs off of early 1960 s and there’s a Carter carb that works great can’t remember the number of it you’ll have plenty of room with them and they work great
Use a 90 degree carb mount to fix the clearance issue with a side draught.
As always, you guys do great work. Lots of useful and valuable information regarding motor mounts. I personally enjoy the speed you work. It appears you have a plan and a vision. You’re not just running around the shop Frantically. With the help of Jamie, your videos are peaceful and calming. Awmmmmmmmmmm (insert yoga Lotus position.)
Rick Pewe's jeep "tator" is a 2a with the fhead and ford 1904 carb. I have $100 china knock off 1904 cab and it works well. You have to knotch to the valve cover and a 1" body lift helps.
Take a look at the air cleaners used on 66-77 ford broncos with the inline 6, or 80-86 broncos, and 73-86 f-series and econolines with the 300 inline 6. They mount on a Carter YF/YFA single barrel carb. They might just be the ticket to hood clearance. They orient the filter to the side and lower, about even with the carb.
Another great video. Willys-101 Good fabricating & Jamie is doing really good camera work. Thank You Both. 👍👍👍
Intelligent, witty, informative entertainment. What a concept!
The timing gear is a fiber gear with a metal center, for body mount I would use hockey pucks they're cheap and easily available and they can slightly raise the body for valve cover clearance maybe maybe carb clearance just an idea you add as many as necessary whatever Jamie wants 😊
Yes, that is an “F” head engine. They have exhaust valves in the block and intake valves in the head. Your CJ2A is designed for the flathead engine. The later jeeps that used OHV engines had a taller hood and cowl to allow clearance for the taller engine. Probably the easiest fix for hood clearance would be to build an simple elbow adapter to install a side draft carb.
There is a good machine shop just a few miles from you. The Vintage Machinist in Rosamond. They might be able to pin that F block for you.
Yes, Marty has done some awesome work on my projects!
Keep used 3 different engines, flathead that had the valves in the block, L head that had the valves in the head and F head that had valves in the head and block. Hope this helps.
Another riveting show...good questions, Jamie.
Ian, great lesson. Every person should learn something new everyday. I hope that u got your roof back on your home. Thanks
Us too!! Thank you!
The jeep engine is called an F head. 1/2 the valves in the block,1/2 the valves in the head. What we call a flathead engine, with all valves in the block, is officially an L head engine. Glad you found that head bolt that is under the carburetor.
Coming along very well with the jeep project. Explaining the mysteries of a combustion engine to the Mrs. is an excellent idea to continue with, she will be wrenching along with you just like Emily from 'Flying Sparks Garage'. Thanks for the great content, I enjoy watching and learning.
Your timing gear that caught fire is a phenolic gear.
Phenolic Gears exhibits superior shear force, help reduce machinery noise, absorbs destructive vibration unlike metal gears, phenolic is non-conductive, protects the mating metal gear train, and are known to outlast metal gears under severe continuous service
The Cam gear is most likely a Bakelite style gear and could be replaced with a cast or alloy gear. Just a PSA, Bakelite is made using Asbestos so be careful handling old and worn items containing it.
Yes it's made to be the weak point..
Great video. Don't forget the air cleaner clearance.
Well I just learned more in 40 minutes about engines than I have in 40 years
I agree with your decision Ian and Jamie: try to run that engine with just a bit of cleanup. No need to tear it apart YET. Magna flux is a good idea but where you live, it may not be quick. Also I would add the 1 1/2” body mount spacers, will give you at least 1” more clearance when things are all said and done. Hope to see you two again at the Grand National Roadster Show (GNRS) and Santa Maria! Jerry:>)
He has discovered a crack, some commenters pointed it out.
Make your body lift out of hockey pucks. Drill out puck insert a bushing,couple of flat washers top and bottom. Cheap body lift.
I thought you might of stuck a vw carbie on it😅 ,but i think the best option is a weber side draft you would be able to get parts easier for it ,just need to make up a adapter that might be the easy way,
I think yes you still need to put rubber mounts between the body and frame,would they normally have them ,i honestly no nothing but the old jeeps,just know this will look so good when its finished
Once again, what a GREAT show!!! So down to earth and pure. Husky Hugs All Around Gang. 🐺🥰🐺
Nice fabrication on the motor mount brackets. The height problem for the valve cover shouldn't be an issue... since it almost or barely fits with the body sitting on the chassis, then when you put the body mounts on, it should clear with no problem. Stock body mounts are probably in the area of 1/2 to 1" tall.
As for the carb, a side draft would be the most elegant way to get the clearance. If you want a vertical carb. check out the Holly 1904 carb that others have mentioned. It looks much shorter than most one barrel carbs, With the body mounts in place, a shorty air filter may fit, and still be able to close the hood.
Great explanation on the operation of the engine. In very simple term, just remember Suck, Bang, Blow. As for the people saying what THEY think you are doing wrong, I don't see them building anything.
ahh,a 3 stroke!. 4 would be suck/squish/bang/blow.
@@sprintcarsandguitars959 you are correct Sir
🟥 F head. 1 valve in head and 1 valve in block...Maybe fabricate a sheet metal manifold to put the carburetor off to the side?
hockey pucks off Amazon makes great body mounts,I’ve used them numerous times. the ford 140-160 straight six is the Carburetor I used. after learning to weld/braze I modified the carb port of the head to accept a progressive weber.
The mounts need to be rubber on these little Jeeps, for flex and to stop vibration & metal fatigue.
Hockey pucks have more resiliency than the stock 1/4” thick slice of rubber, having run them for over 20yrs on my 47’2a and 51’ 473 willys truck I dissagree with you
@@StevenBirchler Are hockey pucks 1/4 thick ?
Please disregard what these other people say about your work. If they think they can run with you I got to find out what they are drinking. Very few are at your level and some people want to tell you how to do things. You can take a box of bottle caps and make a car and most of us just see bottle caps. You and Jamie are a great team.
I would install 1" body mounts and look at a side draft carb, a 1 3/4 SU or others also do a full tair down on the engine
Well done guys. That’s the second oddball engine design I’ve seen in a couple of days. Farm Craft is disassembling a John Deere dozer and the engine has a water jacket in the valve cover. It’s good to see Summit is helping you guys out with engine parts, to me there’s nothing wrong with sponsorship as long as it’s clearly declared as you did. Lucky you decided to fix that motor or all those parts would have gone to waste😉. I think that old low compression/ low power donk will be fine, I’ll bet it won’t even burn oil if you give it a hone and the rings are good. Cheers, Stuart 🇦🇺
Make the side draft. It's just tubing with a carb mount. like the intake you built for the chopper with the lawn mower seat and the fat tires on it. Or lower the engine. If parts have oil on them they can be flammable.I think that engine will run not sure how long but it's worth a shot.well good luck Take care.
You can make a side draft adapter for the carb maybe?
You could do a mild body lift maybe like only a 2inch should give you plenty of room but not excessive
Ian is a brilliant artist and his media is custom motor vehicles.
They make a tool for every job, But.... Everything is a Nail, if you ONLY have a Hammer!
Comment - I was born in 1946, my first car was a 1946 Dodge business coupe in 1964. The inspection stamps all around the car were on my birthday. And now this...
go figure, cause I can't - BTW i once lived behind the "Barn" bar on Route 66. THANK YOU BOTH for these videos !!!!
I see a new fuel pump, and it's still the mechanical kind, I would use an electronic pump and blank off the old mounting place on the block. It will give you minimal HP gains but some is better than nothing, same goes for an electric water pump.
weber side draft 40 DCOE would be fine for that engine. They are commonly used on all sorts of "production class" road race cars. Ferrari used them back in the day : )
I've heard of side-drafts from a Harley Davidsons being used on VW 4 cyl applications.. This isn't much different in displacement size.. Something to consider.. I know you like the one of a kind build and having to make things function on the whim...
Willys catalog. I have 1958 cj5. I know you're getting parts through SUMMIT,but ALL THE INFO on ALL old WILLYS is in the catalog. Love this build ❤
The overhead valve has intake in the head to improve performance. It was an upgrade to make better air flow through the head.
Jeeps getting on at last!🆒😎👍!
That's pretty neat. I've never seen an engine with a "combination" valve train (overhead and F-head) like that one. I was wondering if you plan to have hardened valve seats installed - sort of needed if you plan to use unleaded fuel. I think (not completely sure) that you'd only need them for the exhaust valves but just thought I'd throw that out there. I really enjoy your work and have learned a LOT! My welds between the Vicegrips and the parts I'm welding together have gotten much stronger and harder to separate 🙂
In 1926 John Willys needed an engine for his new Whippet. Small of bore but big enough to support a soda can.
Been watching these videos for sometime I actually get to see what Jamie looks like on the thumbnail like to see more of her in the video.
Gotta love summit racing I live in-between the original summit racing and jegs racing here in Ohio and Summit is my choice of the two . Keep up the good work
Summit 👍
Evolving just like every thing cheers guys 😊
nice, i added some bob drake round rubber body isolators to give me just a little more room on my 40 COE. i have extras if you want to experiment. let me know. im local.
You should google wwII Jeep videos, they really put them through their paces! There’s one where the Jeep gets air and I swear the passenger hurt his back! Lol
Yes they tortured the hell out of them, a lot of those videos are actually old driver training films..
Ian sometimes reminds me of BATMAN he has all the cool toys.
Appreciate the educational portion as well as the fabrication skills. I've built multiple replicas. Bradley GTII, Sterling, Lotus Super 7, working on my 4th Lamborghini. Always pick up new ideas from your shows. Also, kudos to Jamie for great video skills.
......I ENJOY UR DIALOGUE....SO MUCH....I HAVE TO WATCH EACH SHOW 3 OR 4 TIMES..
Hey Ian... on the carburetor issue, what I think would be really cool (if you can find one) would be to fabricate a short 90° adapter and mount a side draft on it.
Your thoughts?😊
Enjoyable an well done video. I'm enjoying the journey as you are including your bride as you educate your viewers. Keep them coming.
Great use of the word "gusset" Jaime!
you can always use a side draft SU or stromberg carb from a British car
You said the B Word arrrghh lol..