Great video and production values. DIY beginner here. Should your wall emulsion overlap the caulking between the skirting board and the wall? I find it difficult judging where the transition should be. Similarly between uneven ceiling coving and wall. Also, what about where kitchen upstands have been sealed with silicone against the wall? Thanks for your videos.
Thank you Jon, really appreciate your support.. I’ll always do my very best to answer any questions 💯😊 ..Generally yes, when masking the skirting I’m looking to lay the tape along what constitutes the woodwork (or mdf 😊) and the gap that’s caulked would be where the emulsion will hit.. With the wall colour that’s being masked off for a white ceiling. I follow the same principal as cutting in with a brush, if the line / transition is not sharp, I’ll mask ever so slightly on the ceiling.. I’m talking a fraction of a mm.. like cutting in, it’s a better illusion to the eye if you don’t see the ceiling white on the wall (hope that makes sense).. Anything siliconed can be problematic. Kitchen upstands like you say are a classic example.. I have a few tactics and way up the best option.. if the silicone work is a clean beaded line, I’ll mask the silicone off with Deltec Gold or Deltec Extreme (you need good adhesion to the silicone). So basically the silicone is protected and emulsion hits the wall.. because water based emulsion hates sticking to silicone, I sometimes mask off the upstand and caulk over the silicone with an acrylic caulk.. or I rake out the silicone, mask off the upstand and caulk a beautiful straight line (probably using a profiling tool).. sorry for the long answer, hopefully it makes sense and helps you in some way.. keep in touch my friend and feel free to ask questions any time.. regards Pete 👍
@@PaintHQ Many thanks for your explanation! It's only when I started masking and painting at home that I realised now much we take this level of detail in the everyday for granted.
You’re very welcome, anytime my friend.. so true 👍 As a professional and I speak for my fellow tradesmen, decoration can make or break a project. Preparation and attention to detail is so important, get it right and it will look great and last for many years to come.. get it wrong and it can be difficult and time consuming to put right.. and contrary to what other trades think, it is a skill, a real art-form 💯 ..All the best, keep in touch, I’ll help you all I can.. I appreciate the support 👍👌😆
You’re so kind, as always thank you for the support 💯 Hope all is going well for you my friend 👌 Any problems or questions, feel free to message and I’ll do my best 👍😊
Hi Ulrike, thank you very much for the kind feedback 🙏 ..I’m so glad you’ve found the information helpful.. it’s always my intention to be able to help non-Pros (DIYers), equally alongside Pros 💯 ..Keep in touch, I’m happy to try and help / advise with any future projects.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Ah good news Joe, you’ve made a great choice with those machines.. regarding the Ultra Max, awesome handy piece of kit.. just remember to not overwork it, small projects / ceilings / feature walls etc, ease the paint a bit if you need to (splash of water), just to keep the speed 7 or less (I like 5 if I can).. basically don’t run it flat out at speed 10.. and give it a good clean out after each use, so the water or cleaning agent is pretty much clear.. oh and run some pump armour through it (same as your GXFF, store with pump armour in it).. this way your handheld will last you nicely 👌 ..Feel free to contact me if you need any help.. I’m there for you buddy 💯🇮🇪🙏🏻😊
Really appreciate the time and effort you put in to make these clips, any chance of making one on how to dial in a clean shot as i have one and it’s doing my head in
Hey Paul, glad you’re liking the content, really appreciate your support.. Yeah sure buddy, it’s something I’ve been meaning to put together 👍 ..Great to hear from you 💯 regards Pete
Thank you Yuriy 😆 appreciate the support 💯 Please subscribe if you’re able to.. and always feel free to ask questions, I’ll do my very best to help.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQ all good this end thanks Pete back on the brush next week 😩 so no spraying for me sadly hope your keeping well and have a great week my friend be blessed 🙏
Hey bro, hope all is well. Thanks for this video, really helpful. Definitely improving my skills since watching your videos! Question- how to get around masking windows/doors with silicone around it?
I’m very well brother, hope you are all good too 🙏 ..silicone for the painter is very problematic.. I guess you mean the silicone that can be found around internal window and door reveals.. 9 times out of 10, the silicone will need removing, clean up any residue with something like Multisolve spray.. then I mask the frame, with a fraction (1-2 mm) of a gap all round, then caulk with acrylic (keeping it off the tape).. spray the emulsion and carefully pull the tape whilst wet.. very occasionally I can mask over the silicone, if the silicone line is clean and straight, the silicone shouldn’t then interfere the painter line.. so yeah, I’d look to remove and caulk, or plaster / fill around the frame if the gap is really bad.. hope this helps my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete Thanks for the reply. Yes, that’s exactly what I’m talking about ..the silicone that can be found around internal window and door reveals. Problematic is a polite way of putting it !! As you said occasionally you get odd time where the masking tape holds well?! I was thinking I was doing something wrong but kind of reassuring to know I’m not alone! Thanks for the advice bro.. really appreciate it!! No doubt I’ll be picking your brains about something else soon 😌
Hi Pete, another great video. I bought the hand masker, makes things a bit easier, I’m fine on the paper, not so great on tearing the film. Practice I think. I’m just about to order the HEA tip, this won’t fit the Graco gun will it? Thanks again for the video’s and advice.
Hey Allan.. Yeah the hand masker takes practice, it’s worth persevering, once mastered it’s a real time saver.. here’s a tip for cutting the plastic film, it can be a pain.. keep a safety cutter in your pocket, and any problems or you’re in a tight spot (the serrated blade could be a danger), just slice with the cutter.. I first discovered the cutter as it comes with pro dec protective plastic roll.. I guess you could search out safety cutters, but here’s a link to Amazon (I’m not sponsored in any way 🙈) it’s the easiest way to show you exactly what I mean www.amazon.co.uk/ProDec-Advance-ADPY003-Super-Cling/dp/B01EX4R05Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=prodec+plastic+roll&qid=1624095268&sprefix=prodec+pl&sr=8-1 Regarding the HEA tips, yeah I use the 515 a lot, it does unfortunately need its own guard.. just double check it’s the HEA ProTip (not the Control Pro.. that’s the ‘DIY’ version).. My video ‘low pressure spraying’ where I spray the kitchen ceiling covers the difference in the video description write up... let me know if you need any clarification.. sorry for the essay again 🙈 hope it helps 😆 Keep in touch my friend, you’re doing great 💯👏👍👌
Great video Pete. In Romania I did not find 3D Mask dispenser. Instead we have brown paper 30 cm or 10 or 15 cm , with adesive band already stick. Also we have plastic instead of brown paper but large wide , till 270 cm. The problem is with dispenser . Only for small sizes we find . For long ones I use paper cutter , butvit is very unconfortable , I need an extra hand:)). Ho you have also such of protection ? Thanks .
Ah great info on your experiences from Romania 🇷🇴👌👏😆 ..Really appreciate your feedback.. yeah we have brown papers and plastic, ready taped.. the plastic we call it tape and drape.. I do keep some in my kit, along with a safety cutter to slice through the plastic cleanly.. I just find the 3M Hand Masker more cost effective (cheaper).. Trimaco make a similar masker, wonder if that’s available to you?.. keep in touch, always a pleasure to hear from you and I’m always happy to help if I can.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank you very much Pete for your fast and comprensiv answer. Trimaco sell in Romania only thik paper for protection the floor. For the moment I have one dispenser for long plastic and 2 pieces for short pieces . There are very simple devices. A plastic tube with a gap at the long of the cilinder for paper/plastic to exit and , very important, am one side of the gap has a metal striat piece , who cut the paper/plastic when operator decide. Similar as your 3M masking... Unfirtunately I do not find even paper/plastic for 3M Masking machine... Here , we are at the begining of airless painting era for renovation market. Usualy airless is used for new building . That because till very soon the labor cost is very cheap . Now situation is changing dramaticaly , many skilfull worker left the country to work abroad for big money... Those who still work are full of work and also for big money. They start to invest in profesional tools to be efficient. Problem is now with the equipment , because the demand are still not so hight , the prices are very hight , and some equipment do not exist on our market ex Toughbuilt , 3M Masking , Hilti wall sander, specialized hand tool ,etc. We do not have show rooms. He buy only after the review of youtube. It is very frustrating do not feel the tool in your hand ... So this is why the video producer like you are very important for people like me who want to make performance . Thank you again.
Hi @PaintHQ I've just got my first Garco GX 21 and it has 517 graco tip. Can I use 517 tip to spray walls and ceiling? And what pressure do you recommend? Thank you
Hey Andrei, thanks for your question.. good news on the GX21 👏👏👏 ..It will all depend on the thickness / viscosity of the emulsion you’re spraying, a 517 will get you spraying, a 515 can be more beneficial, especially for a beginner.. the flow rate is less.. This video may help understand.. Airless Spray Tips Explained | All About Airless Paint Sprayer Tips th-cam.com/video/0Q7LrmeMs3w/w-d-xo.html Otherwise yeah go for it with your 517, you can always move quicker to compensate 👍 ..Start out with pressure 1400, then test on brown paper or a test piece.. you’re looking for a nice even fan pattern with a feathered edge and no heavy lines either side (tails).. then up the pressure to 1600, 1800, etc until tails are eliminated.. hope this helps, great to have you contributing on PaintHQ.. regards Pete
Hi Pete, thank you for your reply. I'm at the stage I've primed wood work yesterday with 310 tip at around 1800PSI. I use just Fleetwood waterbase paints and primers. All your videos and tips are very helpful. Keep up your good work
Vi en unos de tus videos k usas la válvula tiro limpio clean shot pero también he visto k hay un apdatador de 180 grado cual recomiendas y porque Necesito saber por tu esperiencia k presión y boquilla usas para los siguientes trabajos Pintura de paredes interiores y exteriores Para puertas int..y exteriores Para cerca de tubos de 1x1de metal hierro y k pintura usas para esta
buenas preguntas amigo mío, espero haber entendido lo que quieres saber. El disparo limpio es excelente para eliminar salpicaduras de pintura cuando utilizo una extensión de pistola. Normalmente uso una, si necesito usar una extensión al rociar techos .. Las puntas y la presión dependen del grosor (viscosidad) de la pintura .. Me gusta mucho la punta Wagner HEA 515 para paredes interiores y techos, estoy rociando alrededor de 1400 psi .. una punta grande que puedo dar usted debe tomar nota, yo uso una hoja de cálculo para enumerar las diferentes pinturas y las puntas y la presión a la que estoy rociando ... para las barandillas de hierro, necesitaría un ventilador estrecho, por lo que una punta de 110 podría funcionar pero necesitaría moverse muy rápido. Pulverizar con HVLP o Wagner XVLP probablemente sería más adecuado. será una pulverización más controlada. espero que esto ayude hermano 👍 Saludos Pete
hola hermano ... perdón por no responder antes, siempre haré todo lo posible para responder a tus preguntas y ayudarte ... con la práctica, pronto ganarás confianza ... no te rindas amigo 👍😊
Hi Joe, thanks for your question my friend.. what’s beneficial when spraying is a ‘Washi’ tape, it’s a thin, strong, smooth tape with technology originating in Japan.. I use the premium gold tapes on cured woodwork paints and yes, it would perform brilliantly on uPVC. I’m having a lot of success with the Kip range.. such as this.. www.amazon.co.uk/Kip-Painters-Decorating-Wallpaper-Sensitive/dp/B09HV9HHQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?keywords=Kip&qid=1670847531&sr=8-20&th=1&psc=1 Hope this helps my friend, keep in touch, I’ll always get back to you 👍 regards Pete
@@PaintHQ ok great, thank you Pete. So if I'm understanding your correctly, you're using the Deltec washi tape to define your spray lines, then the general purpose Q1 is just to hold down your masking paper/plastic?
Yes you’re correct my friend.. the Gold washi is for all critical lines.. then when I’m using the 3M Hand Masker to mask the trim / skirting / architrave, you can put the gold washi on the masker and run paper and washi tape in one go.. using the blade edge as a guide.. only when I’m masking emulsion (ceiling cut line).. I go round with a purple delicate washi, then Q1 or a cost effective ‘multi purpose’ masking tape to apply the plastic film to the purple tape masked line 👍😆
Yes my friend 👍 The order when spraying a complete project is woodwork / trim.. walls.. then last the ceiling.. each overlapping onto the next part to be sprayed.. there is no detriment when using WB acrylic based primers 👍 ..hope this helps my friend.. regards Pete 💙
Hi mate, do you ever have any problems with the purple deltec pulling off the emulsion on the walls? Been using it and it has been happening to me everywhere and this is after the paint has dried over the weekend. Baffled me to be honest.
Hi Richard, hopefully I can offer sone help.. Is this a room that you’ve prepped from the start? Fresh plaster / skim?. Or a previously painted room, where you prep, spray walls, mask then spray ceiling.. In this 2nd scenario, it can happen if the previous paint job (that’s out of our control), has been applied without priming / mist costing the walls.. in this case, the paint could pull no matter what tape is used, it’s a real pain 🙈 ..If you’re taking on the project from fresh plaster.. ensure the plaster is dust free (the Wooster Dust Eater is very handy), then either use a primer such as Tikkurila Optiva Primer.. or mix a mist coat with something like AR2.. I hope I’m not suggesting something obvious, apologies if I am, just trying to help.. it could be as simple as dust compromising the paint job.. generally I find the Deltec Purple very very good, but I can encounter problems, and it’s usually down to a previous paint job ☹️ ..Let me know how you get on, it’s great to have you contributing to the channel.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQthanks for your reply, it's the 2nd one unfortunately, that was along my line of thinking aswell but just wanted to make sure It wasn't just me thinking that. Great chanel and content 👍
Ah I thought that’s what you’d say.. it’s a pain, you just don’t know what’s happened historically.. just eliminate any dust if you can, the dust eater is handy or a microfibre cloth.. keep going buddy, you’re doing great 👍 ..Thanks for the kind words of support 👏😆
Hey Richard, thanks for your question.. The HEA (FFLP) equivalent is the Trade Tip 3 Fine Finish (purple tips).. I’ve ran a 210, I had to spray at a surprisingly higher pressure to eliminate tails and produced a lot a fog as a result.. the droplet was very fine but I preferred the Graco FFLP 👏.. I’ve heard good things about the purple tips, so I will persevere 👍 With the Graco LP tips versus the HEA equivalent (green tip).. more and more I’m turning to the HEA 515, the pressure is so much lower 1400 psi versus 1900 with the LP tips.. they really are great to spray with, less bounce back, less overspray, so clean.. I would recommend giving the HEA 515 a try, especially on ceilings 👍 There’s a couple of videos I’ve published on ‘overspray’ the HEA 515 footage really shows how nice and clean they spray.. Thanks for your continued support Richard, really appreciate it.. keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank for the reply, why do you not used a 514 or 516 fflp tips for your walls? I used one the other week with optiva 5 and It sprayed great at around 1200psi.
Any tips on masking behind a sliding closet door? We have large opening closets (6 feet wide by 7 foot high door, with two panels that slide on a track) and are skim-coating drywall and painting the room itself and then the frame around the closet door - but not the inside of the closet itself. This is kinda like painting a cabinet's face/frame but not inside. I tried using double-sided tape from inside the closet but struggling to get it to stay, since the walls inside are glossy and the sprayer puts a lot of pressure on it. Also difficult to crawl out the closet from the bottom and get it all sealed up. Thanks!
Hey Ryan.. great to hear from you bro, I’ll do all I can to help.. I think I can picture what you mean.. there’s always a solution 😆 ..I tend to create a ‘hood’ when masking openings, there’s various sticking points depending on the edge that’s being masked off.. take a quick look at this video th-cam.com/video/Hou34W9qF-E/w-d-xo.html ..Whist it’s not a closet, you’ll get my idea of creating a hood that’s strong enough to take the spray pressure.. you’ll be able to run a protective line of tape first which gives you the edge you want.. hopefully it will give you some idea of how I tackle the masking off of opening and you can adapt it.. if one run of 12” brown paper does not feel enough protection, run another line of paper (creating 24”) or stick plastic inside.. Really hope this helps, feel free to get back to me if I’m on the wrong track.. either way let me know how you get on.. great to hear from you.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Ah nice - that video helps! I got some tips on reddit from this question I posted there with a photo (www.reddit.com/r/paint/comments/oqwpsh/help_masking_off_closet_interior_for_painting/) which included a piece of tape that sticks out from the edge. When I tried that before it wasn't sticky enough and also found that the plastic blew into wet paint too :/
That’s great 😀 Yeah seeing the image, it’s how I imagined it.. you would be able to tape the edge just like a door opening, then if using taped brown paper, you could fold and manipulate the paper into a shield.. if you plastic behind the paper to protect the closet, the brown paper is strong enough to stop the plastic flapping into the paint.. Just thought.. this video th-cam.com/video/ni7clOjuM98/w-d-xo.html from 2:35 you’ll see me spray the outside of a closet.. much smaller than yours.. I’ve masked in a similar way as explained.. but also use a spray shield (with brown paper keeping the shield clean).. the spray shield just gives that extra line of cover on top of the precision masking 👍 let me know how you get on my friend, keep in touch.. regards Pete
Hi pete can you recommend a mask that will protect against fumes and mist from airless. I have the 3m 7000 mask but im not sure which cartridges i need . Any help or suggestions be great mate thanks.
I’ll do my best to point you in the right direction.. please somebody correct me if I’m wrong.. There’s 2 parts to the protection “A” and “P”.. Then levels of protection for each.. So you have A = Organic gas / Vapours.. A1 and A2.. A2 protecting against higher levels of vapour than A1.. although both will offer protection.. Then P for particles.. P1, P2 and P3.. P3 bring the highest level of protection against particles.. So as long as I’m telling you right, A2P3 offers the best protection.. if you’re able to check out MyPaintbrush, that’s who I use for my consumables, incl tapes, brown paper, plastic etc.. They sell both sets of 3M filters A2 and P3, just check they fit your model.. Hope this helps a little my friend.. great to hear from you.. Pete 🎨😆
@@PaintHQ thanks pete so am i right in thinking i need a combination of filters as in one a2 and then p3 on the other side? What mask do you use pete ? Sorry for all the questions
No problem at all Mick.. Yes you would need both sets of filters for your 7000 series mask.. you’ve got a very good, “full face” mask my friend 👍 Mines a 3M “half mask”, designed as a throw away item once clogged.. I’ve got to be honest, mine is probably due to be replaced.. I spray so much, that my next one will be similar to yours in that I want to be able to change out the filters.. I prefer the comfort of the half mask, so will probably get a 6000 series mask (A2P3).. feel free to ask questions anytime, I don’t mind and I’ll always do my best to answer 👍👌
Great video and production values. DIY beginner here. Should your wall emulsion overlap the caulking between the skirting board and the wall? I find it difficult judging where the transition should be. Similarly between uneven ceiling coving and wall. Also, what about where kitchen upstands have been sealed with silicone against the wall? Thanks for your videos.
Thank you Jon, really appreciate your support.. I’ll always do my very best to answer any questions 💯😊 ..Generally yes, when masking the skirting I’m looking to lay the tape along what constitutes the woodwork (or mdf 😊) and the gap that’s caulked would be where the emulsion will hit.. With the wall colour that’s being masked off for a white ceiling. I follow the same principal as cutting in with a brush, if the line / transition is not sharp, I’ll mask ever so slightly on the ceiling.. I’m talking a fraction of a mm.. like cutting in, it’s a better illusion to the eye if you don’t see the ceiling white on the wall (hope that makes sense).. Anything siliconed can be problematic. Kitchen upstands like you say are a classic example.. I have a few tactics and way up the best option.. if the silicone work is a clean beaded line, I’ll mask the silicone off with Deltec Gold or Deltec Extreme (you need good adhesion to the silicone). So basically the silicone is protected and emulsion hits the wall.. because water based emulsion hates sticking to silicone, I sometimes mask off the upstand and caulk over the silicone with an acrylic caulk.. or I rake out the silicone, mask off the upstand and caulk a beautiful straight line (probably using a profiling tool).. sorry for the long answer, hopefully it makes sense and helps you in some way.. keep in touch my friend and feel free to ask questions any time.. regards Pete 👍
@@PaintHQ Many thanks for your explanation! It's only when I started masking and painting at home that I realised now much we take this level of detail in the everyday for granted.
You’re very welcome, anytime my friend.. so true 👍 As a professional and I speak for my fellow tradesmen, decoration can make or break a project. Preparation and attention to detail is so important, get it right and it will look great and last for many years to come.. get it wrong and it can be difficult and time consuming to put right.. and contrary to what other trades think, it is a skill, a real art-form 💯 ..All the best, keep in touch, I’ll help you all I can.. I appreciate the support 👍👌😆
Another day at spray school.
Cheers for the great videos. 👍
You’re so kind, as always thank you for the support 💯 Hope all is going well for you my friend 👌 Any problems or questions, feel free to message and I’ll do my best 👍😊
Thank you for another helpful video showing how to for us newbie diyer's
Hey Peter, you’re very welcome my friend.. really pleased it’s able to help you guys 👌👏👍😆
Thanks for your comprehensive video. Painting information for non pros. It helped me to finish my homemade projects.
Hi Ulrike, thank you very much for the kind feedback 🙏 ..I’m so glad you’ve found the information helpful.. it’s always my intention to be able to help non-Pros (DIYers), equally alongside Pros 💯 ..Keep in touch, I’m happy to try and help / advise with any future projects.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Another great video, picked up some good tips there! Thanks
Thank you Bryan.. really appreciate your support 💯 ..Regards Pete
just got my GXFF and ultra max and really appreciate these videos as spraying is new to me. Thanks again Pete.
Ah good news Joe, you’ve made a great choice with those machines.. regarding the Ultra Max, awesome handy piece of kit.. just remember to not overwork it, small projects / ceilings / feature walls etc, ease the paint a bit if you need to (splash of water), just to keep the speed 7 or less (I like 5 if I can).. basically don’t run it flat out at speed 10.. and give it a good clean out after each use, so the water or cleaning agent is pretty much clear.. oh and run some pump armour through it (same as your GXFF, store with pump armour in it).. this way your handheld will last you nicely 👌 ..Feel free to contact me if you need any help.. I’m there for you buddy 💯🇮🇪🙏🏻😊
@@PaintHQ Thanks a mil Pete.Will follow your advice and videos.cheers mate.
Really appreciate the time and effort you put in to make these clips, any chance of making one on how to dial in a clean shot as i have one and it’s doing my head in
Hey Paul, glad you’re liking the content, really appreciate your support.. Yeah sure buddy, it’s something I’ve been meaning to put together 👍 ..Great to hear from you 💯 regards Pete
Stunning job
Thank you Yuriy 😆 appreciate the support 💯 Please subscribe if you’re able to.. and always feel free to ask questions, I’ll do my very best to help.. regards Pete 🎨💯
Hello, good work, good luck vvm!)
Thank you my friend, you’re a star 💯😊
Legend pete, as always, some great tips bud. :D
Ah thank you kind sir 💯 Hope all is well with you buddy 👌👍
@@PaintHQ having a great summer spraying now the weather is nice thanks pal. Hope you are well bud. 🙏
Ah great to hear 😆 You’re doing awesome my friend 👏👍👌💯
Great video again pete 👍
Ah thank you Mick, appreciate that 👏😊
Outstanding buddy 👍🏻
Thank you Simon 😆 Hope you’re keeping well my friend 💯
@@PaintHQ all good this end thanks Pete back on the brush next week 😩 so no spraying for me sadly hope your keeping well and have a great week my friend be blessed 🙏
Ah cool, I quite like a ‘manual’ painting job from time to time. With any trade I appreciate the grass roots techniques 💯 take care buddy 👏👍👌
Hey bro, hope all is well. Thanks for this video, really helpful.
Definitely improving my skills since watching your videos! Question- how to get around masking windows/doors with silicone around it?
I’m very well brother, hope you are all good too 🙏 ..silicone for the painter is very problematic.. I guess you mean the silicone that can be found around internal window and door reveals.. 9 times out of 10, the silicone will need removing, clean up any residue with something like Multisolve spray.. then I mask the frame, with a fraction (1-2 mm) of a gap all round, then caulk with acrylic (keeping it off the tape).. spray the emulsion and carefully pull the tape whilst wet.. very occasionally I can mask over the silicone, if the silicone line is clean and straight, the silicone shouldn’t then interfere the painter line.. so yeah, I’d look to remove and caulk, or plaster / fill around the frame if the gap is really bad.. hope this helps my friend.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Hi Pete
Thanks for the reply. Yes, that’s exactly what I’m talking about ..the silicone that can be found around internal window and door reveals. Problematic is a polite way of putting it !! As you said occasionally you get odd time where the masking tape holds well?! I was thinking I was doing something wrong but kind of reassuring to know I’m not alone!
Thanks for the advice bro.. really appreciate it!! No doubt I’ll be picking your brains about something else soon 😌
You’re very welcome, anytime 👌👍 ..You’re doing great brother 💯
Que buen trabajo mi hermano 👍
gracias apreciado hermano 🇪🇸 ❤️😆
Hi Pete, another great video.
I bought the hand masker, makes things a bit easier, I’m fine on the paper, not so great on tearing the film. Practice I think. I’m just about to order the HEA tip, this won’t fit the Graco gun will it? Thanks again for the video’s and advice.
Hey Allan.. Yeah the hand masker takes practice, it’s worth persevering, once mastered it’s a real time saver.. here’s a tip for cutting the plastic film, it can be a pain.. keep a safety cutter in your pocket, and any problems or you’re in a tight spot (the serrated blade could be a danger), just slice with the cutter.. I first discovered the cutter as it comes with pro dec protective plastic roll.. I guess you could search out safety cutters, but here’s a link to Amazon (I’m not sponsored in any way 🙈) it’s the easiest way to show you exactly what I mean
www.amazon.co.uk/ProDec-Advance-ADPY003-Super-Cling/dp/B01EX4R05Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=prodec+plastic+roll&qid=1624095268&sprefix=prodec+pl&sr=8-1
Regarding the HEA tips, yeah I use the 515 a lot, it does unfortunately need its own guard.. just double check it’s the HEA ProTip (not the Control Pro.. that’s the ‘DIY’ version).. My video ‘low pressure spraying’ where I spray the kitchen ceiling covers the difference in the video description write up... let me know if you need any clarification.. sorry for the essay again 🙈 hope it helps 😆 Keep in touch my friend, you’re doing great 💯👏👍👌
Great video Pete.
In Romania I did not find 3D Mask dispenser. Instead we have brown paper 30 cm or 10 or 15 cm , with adesive band already stick. Also we have plastic instead of brown paper but large wide , till 270 cm.
The problem is with dispenser . Only for small sizes we find . For long ones I use paper cutter , butvit is very unconfortable , I need an extra hand:)).
Ho you have also such of protection ?
Thanks .
Ah great info on your experiences from Romania 🇷🇴👌👏😆 ..Really appreciate your feedback.. yeah we have brown papers and plastic, ready taped.. the plastic we call it tape and drape.. I do keep some in my kit, along with a safety cutter to slice through the plastic cleanly.. I just find the 3M Hand Masker more cost effective (cheaper).. Trimaco make a similar masker, wonder if that’s available to you?.. keep in touch, always a pleasure to hear from you and I’m always happy to help if I can.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank you very much Pete for your fast and comprensiv answer.
Trimaco sell in Romania only thik paper for protection the floor. For the moment I have one dispenser for long plastic and 2 pieces for short pieces . There are very simple devices. A plastic tube with a gap at the long of the cilinder for paper/plastic to exit and , very important, am one side of the gap has a metal striat piece , who cut the paper/plastic when operator decide. Similar as your 3M masking...
Unfirtunately I do not find even paper/plastic for 3M Masking machine...
Here , we are at the begining of airless painting era for renovation market. Usualy airless is used for new building . That because till very soon the labor cost is very cheap . Now situation is changing dramaticaly , many skilfull worker left the country to work abroad for big money... Those who still work are full of work and also for big money. They start to invest in profesional tools to be efficient.
Problem is now with the equipment , because the demand are still not so hight , the prices are very hight , and some equipment do not exist on our market ex Toughbuilt , 3M Masking , Hilti wall sander, specialized hand tool ,etc.
We do not have show rooms. He buy only after the review of youtube. It is very frustrating do not feel the tool in your hand ...
So this is why the video producer like you are very important for people like me who want to make performance .
Thank you again.
Hi @PaintHQ I've just got my first Garco GX 21 and it has 517 graco tip. Can I use 517 tip to spray walls and ceiling? And what pressure do you recommend? Thank you
Hey Andrei, thanks for your question.. good news on the GX21 👏👏👏 ..It will all depend on the thickness / viscosity of the emulsion you’re spraying, a 517 will get you spraying, a 515 can be more beneficial, especially for a beginner.. the flow rate is less.. This video may help understand..
Airless Spray Tips Explained | All About Airless Paint Sprayer Tips
th-cam.com/video/0Q7LrmeMs3w/w-d-xo.html
Otherwise yeah go for it with your 517, you can always move quicker to compensate 👍 ..Start out with pressure 1400, then test on brown paper or a test piece.. you’re looking for a nice even fan pattern with a feathered edge and no heavy lines either side (tails).. then up the pressure to 1600, 1800, etc until tails are eliminated.. hope this helps, great to have you contributing on PaintHQ.. regards Pete
Hi Pete, thank you for your reply. I'm at the stage I've primed wood work yesterday with 310 tip at around 1800PSI. I use just Fleetwood waterbase paints and primers. All your videos and tips are very helpful. Keep up your good work
Ah you’re doing great my friend, you’ll gain more and more confidence 💯 ..really appreciate the kind words of support 🙏
Vi en unos de tus videos k usas la válvula tiro limpio clean shot pero también he visto k hay un apdatador de 180 grado cual recomiendas y porque
Necesito saber por tu esperiencia k presión y boquilla usas para los siguientes trabajos
Pintura de paredes interiores y exteriores
Para puertas int..y exteriores
Para cerca de tubos de 1x1de metal hierro y k pintura usas para esta
buenas preguntas amigo mío, espero haber entendido lo que quieres saber. El disparo limpio es excelente para eliminar salpicaduras de pintura cuando utilizo una extensión de pistola. Normalmente uso una, si necesito usar una extensión al rociar techos .. Las puntas y la presión dependen del grosor (viscosidad) de la pintura .. Me gusta mucho la punta Wagner HEA 515 para paredes interiores y techos, estoy rociando alrededor de 1400 psi .. una punta grande que puedo dar usted debe tomar nota, yo uso una hoja de cálculo para enumerar las diferentes pinturas y las puntas y la presión a la que estoy rociando ... para las barandillas de hierro, necesitaría un ventilador estrecho, por lo que una punta de 110 podría funcionar pero necesitaría moverse muy rápido. Pulverizar con HVLP o Wagner XVLP probablemente sería más adecuado. será una pulverización más controlada. espero que esto ayude hermano 👍 Saludos Pete
..Para pinturas metálicas exteriores .. vea si puede comprar pinturas de Tikurilla .. yo uso mucho Tikurilla, todos mis techos se rocían con AR 2 👍
Gracias en dedicar tiempo en contestar con paquito Wilian y otra no he tenido suerte,soy principiante y por eso tengo varias dudas
hola hermano ... perdón por no responder antes, siempre haré todo lo posible para responder a tus preguntas y ayudarte ... con la práctica, pronto ganarás confianza ... no te rindas amigo 👍😊
👋👋👋thank you
What is the difference between the Q1 and the Deltec Gold? Would you still use the Deltec Gold if the sill was uPVC not wood?
Hi Joe, thanks for your question my friend.. what’s beneficial when spraying is a ‘Washi’ tape, it’s a thin, strong, smooth tape with technology originating in Japan.. I use the premium gold tapes on cured woodwork paints and yes, it would perform brilliantly on uPVC. I’m having a lot of success with the Kip range.. such as this..
www.amazon.co.uk/Kip-Painters-Decorating-Wallpaper-Sensitive/dp/B09HV9HHQG/ref=mp_s_a_1_20?keywords=Kip&qid=1670847531&sr=8-20&th=1&psc=1
Hope this helps my friend, keep in touch, I’ll always get back to you 👍 regards Pete
@@PaintHQ ok great, thank you Pete. So if I'm understanding your correctly, you're using the Deltec washi tape to define your spray lines, then the general purpose Q1 is just to hold down your masking paper/plastic?
Yes you’re correct my friend.. the Gold washi is for all critical lines.. then when I’m using the 3M Hand Masker to mask the trim / skirting / architrave, you can put the gold washi on the masker and run paper and washi tape in one go.. using the blade edge as a guide.. only when I’m masking emulsion (ceiling cut line).. I go round with a purple delicate washi, then Q1 or a cost effective ‘multi purpose’ masking tape to apply the plastic film to the purple tape masked line 👍😆
do u always primer the wood and walls??
Yes my friend 👍 The order when spraying a complete project is woodwork / trim.. walls.. then last the ceiling.. each overlapping onto the next part to be sprayed.. there is no detriment when using WB acrylic based primers 👍 ..hope this helps my friend.. regards Pete 💙
Hi mate, do you ever have any problems with the purple deltec pulling off the emulsion on the walls? Been using it and it has been happening to me everywhere and this is after the paint has dried over the weekend. Baffled me to be honest.
Hi Richard, hopefully I can offer sone help.. Is this a room that you’ve prepped from the start? Fresh plaster / skim?. Or a previously painted room, where you prep, spray walls, mask then spray ceiling.. In this 2nd scenario, it can happen if the previous paint job (that’s out of our control), has been applied without priming / mist costing the walls.. in this case, the paint could pull no matter what tape is used, it’s a real pain 🙈 ..If you’re taking on the project from fresh plaster.. ensure the plaster is dust free (the Wooster Dust Eater is very handy), then either use a primer such as Tikkurila Optiva Primer.. or mix a mist coat with something like AR2.. I hope I’m not suggesting something obvious, apologies if I am, just trying to help.. it could be as simple as dust compromising the paint job.. generally I find the Deltec Purple very very good, but I can encounter problems, and it’s usually down to a previous paint job ☹️ ..Let me know how you get on, it’s great to have you contributing to the channel.. regards Pete 🎨💯
@@PaintHQthanks for your reply, it's the 2nd one unfortunately, that was along my line of thinking aswell but just wanted to make sure It wasn't just me thinking that. Great chanel and content 👍
Ah I thought that’s what you’d say.. it’s a pain, you just don’t know what’s happened historically.. just eliminate any dust if you can, the dust eater is handy or a microfibre cloth.. keep going buddy, you’re doing great 👍 ..Thanks for the kind words of support 👏😆
@@PaintHQ I'll definitely look into one of those, thanks for your advice 👍
You’re very welcome, anytime.. regards Pete
Do you notice any difference to the finish between the fflp and hea tips?
Hey Richard, thanks for your question.. The HEA (FFLP) equivalent is the Trade Tip 3 Fine Finish (purple tips).. I’ve ran a 210, I had to spray at a surprisingly higher pressure to eliminate tails and produced a lot a fog as a result.. the droplet was very fine but I preferred the Graco FFLP 👏.. I’ve heard good things about the purple tips, so I will persevere 👍
With the Graco LP tips versus the HEA equivalent (green tip).. more and more I’m turning to the HEA 515, the pressure is so much lower 1400 psi versus 1900 with the LP tips.. they really are great to spray with, less bounce back, less overspray, so clean.. I would recommend giving the HEA 515 a try, especially on ceilings 👍 There’s a couple of videos I’ve published on ‘overspray’ the HEA 515 footage really shows how nice and clean they spray.. Thanks for your continued support Richard, really appreciate it.. keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ thank for the reply, why do you not used a 514 or 516 fflp tips for your walls? I used one the other week with optiva 5 and It sprayed great at around 1200psi.
You’re welcome buddy.. Thanks for the information, sounds good.. I’ll give them a go, great feedback 💯👍
Any tips on masking behind a sliding closet door? We have large opening closets (6 feet wide by 7 foot high door, with two panels that slide on a track) and are skim-coating drywall and painting the room itself and then the frame around the closet door - but not the inside of the closet itself. This is kinda like painting a cabinet's face/frame but not inside. I tried using double-sided tape from inside the closet but struggling to get it to stay, since the walls inside are glossy and the sprayer puts a lot of pressure on it. Also difficult to crawl out the closet from the bottom and get it all sealed up. Thanks!
Hey Ryan.. great to hear from you bro, I’ll do all I can to help.. I think I can picture what you mean.. there’s always a solution 😆 ..I tend to create a ‘hood’ when masking openings, there’s various sticking points depending on the edge that’s being masked off.. take a quick look at this video th-cam.com/video/Hou34W9qF-E/w-d-xo.html ..Whist it’s not a closet, you’ll get my idea of creating a hood that’s strong enough to take the spray pressure.. you’ll be able to run a protective line of tape first which gives you the edge you want.. hopefully it will give you some idea of how I tackle the masking off of opening and you can adapt it.. if one run of 12” brown paper does not feel enough protection, run another line of paper (creating 24”) or stick plastic inside.. Really hope this helps, feel free to get back to me if I’m on the wrong track.. either way let me know how you get on.. great to hear from you.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ Ah nice - that video helps! I got some tips on reddit from this question I posted there with a photo (www.reddit.com/r/paint/comments/oqwpsh/help_masking_off_closet_interior_for_painting/) which included a piece of tape that sticks out from the edge. When I tried that before it wasn't sticky enough and also found that the plastic blew into wet paint too :/
That’s great 😀 Yeah seeing the image, it’s how I imagined it.. you would be able to tape the edge just like a door opening, then if using taped brown paper, you could fold and manipulate the paper into a shield.. if you plastic behind the paper to protect the closet, the brown paper is strong enough to stop the plastic flapping into the paint..
Just thought.. this video th-cam.com/video/ni7clOjuM98/w-d-xo.html from 2:35 you’ll see me spray the outside of a closet.. much smaller than yours.. I’ve masked in a similar way as explained.. but also use a spray shield (with brown paper keeping the shield clean).. the spray shield just gives that extra line of cover on top of the precision masking 👍
let me know how you get on my friend, keep in touch.. regards Pete
@@PaintHQ good call on the shield - thanks for the tips!
You’re very welcome 💯
Hi pete can you recommend a mask that will protect against fumes and mist from airless. I have the 3m 7000 mask but im not sure which cartridges i need . Any help or suggestions be great mate thanks.
I’ll do my best to point you in the right direction.. please somebody correct me if I’m wrong.. There’s 2 parts to the protection “A” and “P”.. Then levels of protection for each.. So you have A = Organic gas / Vapours.. A1 and A2.. A2 protecting against higher levels of vapour than A1.. although both will offer protection.. Then P for particles.. P1, P2 and P3.. P3 bring the highest level of protection against particles.. So as long as I’m telling you right, A2P3 offers the best protection.. if you’re able to check out MyPaintbrush, that’s who I use for my consumables, incl tapes, brown paper, plastic etc.. They sell both sets of 3M filters A2 and P3, just check they fit your model.. Hope this helps a little my friend.. great to hear from you.. Pete 🎨😆
@@PaintHQ thanks pete so am i right in thinking i need a combination of filters as in one a2 and then p3 on the other side? What mask do you use pete ? Sorry for all the questions
No problem at all Mick.. Yes you would need both sets of filters for your 7000 series mask.. you’ve got a very good, “full face” mask my friend 👍 Mines a 3M “half mask”, designed as a throw away item once clogged.. I’ve got to be honest, mine is probably due to be replaced.. I spray so much, that my next one will be similar to yours in that I want to be able to change out the filters.. I prefer the comfort of the half mask, so will probably get a 6000 series mask (A2P3).. feel free to ask questions anytime, I don’t mind and I’ll always do my best to answer 👍👌
I can cut and roll that room 3x in the time took you to tape and spray one coat.
Very nice 👏 Appreciate your feedback my friend 🙏