Old school.. love it.. easy thing to do was use Stewmac fret spacing .. but using an existing guitar for reference is an idea that did not come to me..
Very cool tricks. My first guitar build was a Tele but I ended up making a second neck. I wish I knew that trick then, I destroyed a nice piece of figured Maple.
You are very talented. I would pay you rather than any big brand custom shop. Good job and again thanks for posting your videos. I also like that we don’t have to wait days or weeks for the next episode. 🎸
I feel the same way Pat should start doing custom jobs for people... Have them buy the materials and just pay for the labor.. we could get some cool videos and education at the same time
Good video Pat. I bought a small diameter slotting blade set up my huge sliding miter saw and cut about ten boards all in on setting. The couple a did with the handsaw again to avoid all the set with the big saw. But my handsaw seems to be cutting under sized. Stew Mac cryowire doesn't want to press in. Quite a pain. So anyway just pulled the trigger on a 6" slotting blade. Just need to make a sled for the table saw.
@@rqkeating maybe but the simplicity of the Telecaster’s design and construction is its Beauty. Plus you’d have to go to extra unnecessary trouble to bend the veneer at the nut to allow for the curved transition.
Really enjoying this series Pat. - and lots of good info. I find Fretfind2D very useful for printing off fretboards. I don't use it for cutting the slots, but I attach it to the template to help with positioning on the body, marking for carving etc. And for the spoke wheel cut out. But I guess that software wasn't available when you built your first guitar! Cheers.
Cheers, generally the tape and glue goes a long way but the bottles for the last glue I bought are not great and clog up really quickly hence me pouring it out like an ape!!
I just routed my first truss rod channel yesterday. It was not pristine. I used a palm router with a side guide. I will never do that again. Too wobbly and imprecise. I think I used the wrong bit also. Lessons learned.
Brilliant... thanks!
Thanks for watching :)
Old school.. love it.. easy thing to do was use Stewmac fret spacing .. but using an existing guitar for reference is an idea that did not come to me..
I've used the fret calculator a few times for basses and it works well but there is always a bit of guesstimating going on.
Thanks for the tricks!
You're welcome buddy.
Very cool tricks. My first guitar build was a Tele but I ended up making a second neck. I wish I knew that trick then, I destroyed a nice piece of figured Maple.
We've all been there :)
You are very talented. I would pay you rather than any big brand custom shop. Good job and again thanks for posting your videos. I also like that we don’t have to wait days or weeks for the next episode. 🎸
I feel the same way Pat should start doing custom jobs for people... Have them buy the materials and just pay for the labor.. we could get some cool videos and education at the same time
Chears, very kind :)
I'd be up for that lol :)
That such a fantastic technique for transferring fret locations.
Cheers, works great for one of work.
Good video Pat. I bought a small diameter slotting blade set up my huge sliding miter saw and cut about ten boards all in on setting. The couple a did with the handsaw again to avoid all the set with the big saw. But my handsaw seems to be cutting under sized. Stew Mac cryowire doesn't want to press in. Quite a pain. So anyway just pulled the trigger on a 6" slotting blade. Just need to make a sled for the table saw.
I'd love the space to have a cross cut of good table saw, would make life a lot easier.
Using the cutoff from the fingerboard might look really cool on the head stock of this build.
Telecasters don’t have headstock veneers as far as I am aware.
@@nickdryad maybe another reason to have one (and be different)?
@@rqkeating maybe but the simplicity of the Telecaster’s design and construction is its Beauty. Plus you’d have to go to extra unnecessary trouble to bend the veneer at the nut to allow for the curved transition.
I did think that but adding the curve near the nut put me off if I'm honest.
Really enjoying this series Pat. - and lots of good info. I find Fretfind2D very useful for printing off fretboards. I don't use it for cutting the slots, but I attach it to the template to help with positioning on the body, marking for carving etc. And for the spoke wheel cut out. But I guess that software wasn't available when you built your first guitar! Cheers.
Thanks for that, I'll check it out. There was a fret calculator available but the tape on the rule technique worked out for me.
Loving this series. What palm router are you using?
Cheers, it's a Katsu. A cheapo job from Amazon but has served me well for over four years now.
Great series. Just curious: What is your blue tape/ super glue budget?
Cheers, generally the tape and glue goes a long way but the bottles for the last glue I bought are not great and clog up really quickly hence me pouring it out like an ape!!
I just routed my first truss rod channel yesterday. It was not pristine. I used a palm router with a side guide. I will never do that again. Too wobbly and imprecise. I think I used the wrong bit also. Lessons learned.
Yes, the fence on a palm router is probably a bit too small for a truss rod. In that situation a template would be a better option.