Yes on some, but not all models. You usually have to do a recalibration on the scale so it knows what's zero weight and what the actually weight is on it. The W110 Gallagher scale can't work with any of the tru-test bars and I think the S2 or S3 trutest scale can't work with the Gallagher bars, but I could be wrong on that.
I don't see those come in that often and don't get questions on those cells very often either, but here's my guess. It likely means that one of the cells is bad or not communicating to the scale indicator. You could try and go to the junction box where the cells wire up at and disconnect one cell at a time from the junction box and see when then code goes away. If that works, trace the wires to the cable to which load cell it is, then you'll know which cell needs to be replaced.
@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity So I tried all the load cells and they had the same error. That led me to believe it was a software issue, so I borrowed an EW5i and it worked fine. So after looking into the XR3000 more I find it was last updated in 2006. I'll update it when I get a new cord next week but I'm pretty sure that was my issue.
@@HB-ps6rn That's good to hear that that cells are fine. Hopefully the software will fix your issue. If it doesn't, then the scale itself has an issue inside itself.
So when you have your load bar out from under the chute you have a chute that cant be us? This wont work for me. I need my chute more than my scale. Can you rig it where you can still use your chute?
I'm not quite sure what you're getting at. The only reason why you would have to pull a bar out from under the chute would be because there would be an issue with that bar not acting right. You can't really use the chute to weigh with only one load bar hooked up underneath. Because you wouldn't be able to get the full reading of the animal on the chute. If you're not needing the bars for weighing, and one or both bars are good or bad, then pull them out and just use the chute for whatever reason you need to use it for.
I use the chute for catching cattle. A squeeze chute, OK. I think I have one bar bad so it will have to come out. So then how will I attach the chute to the concrete to continue to use the chute with a bar out. I could put it on a 4x4 but then when the cow hits the chute there is a lot of pressure on the one bar holding the chute.
You could try and put the 4x4 underneath to keep it somewhat stable. Try that or remove both bars and just remember which bar is the faulty one. I'm just a repair guy that works on things. I've worked on plenty of brands of load bars, squeeze chute types and the Alleyway platform bars. People have to go without 1 or 2 bars whenever there's an issue, so I'm sure people have gotten by with no bars underneath their chutes plenty of times. What does your faulty bar actually do when it's connected?
Yes, that usually means an issue with a load bar typically. Unhook one load bar and try the scale with one bar hooked up at a time. If it works with one bar and not the other, you'll know which bar has the issue. If it happens to do it with either bar hooked up one at a time, it could be the scale, or there's issues with both bars. If it happens with either bar hooked up, I would try the bars on another scale indicator from a neighbor or take the bars into your local co-op and see if they have a scale they'll let you try your bars on and see if they work or not. If you find that one bar is good and one bar has an issue, you're welcome to send the bar here for me to look at. www.cattlescalerepair.com
I have the MP 1010 load bars which have failed and has undEr on 7i display. I contacted Tru-Test for some help. The after care service is terrible, they wont talk to you, want only to deal with the agent. No sense of urgency. Our Vet is coming and the cattle are due to be sold so i want to weigh them. We are remote so I stripped the load bar. They are not happy about this and I can see why. Both the silicon and electrics had failed (full of water). To be honest I am shocked at the standard of workmanship. So I stripped them, dried them and re-siliconed them. I got one working but the other's electrics is past saving. My wife drove 5 hours to take it to them for repair. They offered to sell us a new system really? Ours is less than 5 years old, used only 3 or 4 times a year. Now they want 50% of the purchase price to repair the single load bar - for some cheap chips? I am not done yet, they will repair this at their cost because this is down to poor design or poor assembly - but that is what I got so far with this company.
It's a good thing that we're not the manufacturer and just an independent repair shop. They're an expensive brand and the after sale they just would rather sell you a new set up or a new load bar. They don't really deal in repairs or least they would rather just sell something new.
@@Rahmahcitot if you're just wanting to replace the cable, just splice the matching colored wires together one at a time by soldering and heat shrinking them one at a time then heat shrinking or taping the whole spliced area afterwards. Or are you asking about which wire goes to which pin on the connector and what resistor is inside the connector?
The previous cable had too many connections due to service, so I don't understand the appropriate colors, there are black, red, green, brown... which color do you think is suitable for the min and plus signal lines?@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity
![ILLSLICK - THE KING'S LANDING [Freestyle]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/feIJJnNkTfk/mqdefault.jpg)
How is the best way to package these bars for shipping?
Oh, Tru-test loadbars compatible with Gallagher weigh scales?
Yes on some, but not all models. You usually have to do a recalibration on the scale so it knows what's zero weight and what the actually weight is on it. The W110 Gallagher scale can't work with any of the tru-test bars and I think the S2 or S3 trutest scale can't work with the Gallagher bars, but I could be wrong on that.
Any ideas for troubleshooting a trutest xr3000 and xhd2 saying bad cell code? Been giving me trouble and there isn't a lot I could find on it.
I don't see those come in that often and don't get questions on those cells very often either, but here's my guess. It likely means that one of the cells is bad or not communicating to the scale indicator. You could try and go to the junction box where the cells wire up at and disconnect one cell at a time from the junction box and see when then code goes away. If that works, trace the wires to the cable to which load cell it is, then you'll know which cell needs to be replaced.
@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity So I tried all the load cells and they had the same error. That led me to believe it was a software issue, so I borrowed an EW5i and it worked fine. So after looking into the XR3000 more I find it was last updated in 2006. I'll update it when I get a new cord next week but I'm pretty sure that was my issue.
@@HB-ps6rn That's good to hear that that cells are fine. Hopefully the software will fix your issue. If it doesn't, then the scale itself has an issue inside itself.
So when you have your load bar out from under the chute you have a chute that cant be us? This wont work for me. I need my chute more than my scale. Can you rig it where you can still use your chute?
I'm not quite sure what you're getting at. The only reason why you would have to pull a bar out from under the chute would be because there would be an issue with that bar not acting right. You can't really use the chute to weigh with only one load bar hooked up underneath. Because you wouldn't be able to get the full reading of the animal on the chute. If you're not needing the bars for weighing, and one or both bars are good or bad, then pull them out and just use the chute for whatever reason you need to use it for.
I use the chute for catching cattle. A squeeze chute, OK. I think I have one bar bad so it will have to come out. So then how will I attach the chute to the concrete to continue to use the chute with a bar out. I could put it on a 4x4 but then when the cow hits the chute there is a lot of pressure on the one bar holding the chute.
You could try and put the 4x4 underneath to keep it somewhat stable. Try that or remove both bars and just remember which bar is the faulty one. I'm just a repair guy that works on things. I've worked on plenty of brands of load bars, squeeze chute types and the Alleyway platform bars. People have to go without 1 or 2 bars whenever there's an issue, so I'm sure people have gotten by with no bars underneath their chutes plenty of times. What does your faulty bar actually do when it's connected?
It says under then if you try to zero it, error 29 comes up.
These bars are only about 3-4 years old.
Have you ever seen a "undr load" on the screen of a scale reader?
We have a TruTest that keeps reading "undr load" and won't clear
Yes, that usually means an issue with a load bar typically. Unhook one load bar and try the scale with one bar hooked up at a time. If it works with one bar and not the other, you'll know which bar has the issue. If it happens to do it with either bar hooked up one at a time, it could be the scale, or there's issues with both bars. If it happens with either bar hooked up, I would try the bars on another scale indicator from a neighbor or take the bars into your local co-op and see if they have a scale they'll let you try your bars on and see if they work or not. If you find that one bar is good and one bar has an issue, you're welcome to send the bar here for me to look at. www.cattlescalerepair.com
Mine is doing this and when I try to zero it says error 29.. These are tru test.
I have the MP 1010 load bars which have failed and has undEr on 7i display. I contacted Tru-Test for some help. The after care service is terrible, they wont talk to you, want only to deal with the agent. No sense of urgency. Our Vet is coming and the cattle are due to be sold so i want to weigh them. We are remote so I stripped the load bar. They are not happy about this and I can see why. Both the silicon and electrics had failed (full of water). To be honest I am shocked at the standard of workmanship. So I stripped them, dried them and re-siliconed them. I got one working but the other's electrics is past saving. My wife drove 5 hours to take it to them for repair. They offered to sell us a new system really? Ours is less than 5 years old, used only 3 or 4 times a year. Now they want 50% of the purchase price to repair the single load bar - for some cheap chips? I am not done yet, they will repair this at their cost because this is down to poor design or poor assembly - but that is what I got so far with this company.
It's a good thing that we're not the manufacturer and just an independent repair shop. They're an expensive brand and the after sale they just would rather sell you a new set up or a new load bar. They don't really deal in repairs or least they would rather just sell something new.
can u give me wire diagram E+ E- S+ S- ?
Sorry I'm not sure which wire is what.
I have a tru-test type MP800, I want to replace the cable but I don't know which signal path is min and plus@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity
@@Rahmahcitot if you're just wanting to replace the cable, just splice the matching colored wires together one at a time by soldering and heat shrinking them one at a time then heat shrinking or taping the whole spliced area afterwards.
Or are you asking about which wire goes to which pin on the connector and what resistor is inside the connector?
The previous cable had too many connections due to service, so I don't understand the appropriate colors, there are black, red, green, brown... which color do you think is suitable for the min and plus signal lines?@@FencerFixerRepairLLCKansasCity