Mike, I don’t know how you find time to design and fabricate this entire build while simultaneously documenting it! Thanks for sharing the project with us!
Awesome stuff. The drilling on the lathe problem is because the drill bit was not sharpened correctly. While drilling, it forces itself of center thus making the hole bigger than the drill bit itself.
What sets your content apart is the fact that you have great content, along with amazing cinematography. You're the standard by which everyone else should be measured.
I used to chat with old-school Ferrari mechanic back in the mid 2000's . We talked a bunch about older (80's era) Ferraris and their oddball manufacturing techniques and parts sourcing. This actually came up when he said that you'd always get a surprise working on steering because of the part sourcing. The imperial / SAE tie rod ends are from Ferrari using vendor out of the UK for their steering components. He said that used to throw the younger mechanics off all the time. I think the company was called Cam Gear and they used to make steering components for Mini, Lotus, Rover etc.
This is the best car-project content on youtube (outside of Rob Dahm maaaybe). No clickbait ("its worse than we thought" "catastrophe" etc..). Great production. In depth everything. Cool background music. I enjoy.
Nothing against Mike, what he’s doing is phenomenal and in my opinion this is the 2nd best build on TH-cam. But Project Binky is in that number 1 spot.
I'm glad you're going to the effort to make sure that engine cover is a perfect fit. If I wanted to see 'good enough' work... well, I'd go out in my garage and look at my own work. Watching your channel has definitely raised my standards. Thanks!
Mike just add some fiber reinforced fiberglass at the areas that show a gap... its really easy to do. It sets up super fast and is super strong. You will have it done in a day...
Glovehand is back!!!! The best pointer in the in the whole world. Low weight, high contrast, little image blocking and great range capability. By the way, great video and good to see the details in progress, even the mistakes.
Just FYI, you don't need your tie rod adjuster to have reverse threads. The inner tie rod spins without issues, that how it's adjusted on a regular tie rod on any rack and pinion. You created an extra adjustment that is redundant and unnecessary. Won't hurt anything, just not needed.
When you get the front steering angles figured out, please make a new set of steering arms that are higher to eliminate the bushing or additional brackets, and replace the Aluminum connector part with steel or Cr-mo, its the weakest link on your "curb hopping" race car, 5x the power as before, large magnitude higher braking forces, higher G forces. Even a bump with a competitor might weaken it. Steering components should be steel or Cr-mo.
Remember to use the safety washer, or a nut bigger than the heim for single shear applications…. Also I would run the bolt head facing up, in case the nut gives out it stays in place
I would’ve left it as a tapered hole and used a tie rod end. The issue with a bolt is you inherently have slop in straight cut holes. They take up slop the most efficient way possible by using a tapered hole and a tapered post bolt. Self centering, self aligning and free of free play regardless of temperature or expansion/contraction of the dissimilar metals.
@@RadDadisRad bolted joints are designed by clamp load and not for shear. You look at the friction, surface area, and torque used for that hardware size. The taper does provide alignment but his car is designed for more precise manipulation rather than easier set-up so the bolt to hole slop has no impact
@@jacobletts2043 The point of a tapered hole/shaft is to spread load evenly across the entire face of the taper and not at a single shear point as is the case here.
Tapers work really well but, you wouldn’t be able to adjust bump steer. You can design the bump steer out in design before manufacturing but, it does require some geometry knowledge.
Spent the last week or so binge-watching the series whenever I could find time. I owned a CRX for like 15 years and always dreamed of doing an engine swap and making it a beautiful car. Life got in the way. I've also always LOVED the 308... so this series is the perfect intersection of my car interests. Am loving living vicariously through you Mike. Thanks!
As someone not well versed in steering/suspension terms and applications, seeing what you mean by Ackerman angle and bump steer made total sense and gives perspective to how many factors you need to consider when designing custom suspension. The time spent on these videos is appreciated by us viewers big time. Keep it up Mike 💪🏻
No problem, suspension is like wizardry. It’s all based on dynamic implementation. That’s the hardest thing to calculate because it’s not static. I honestly don’t know how these companies come up with their multi link setups.
Great to see progress on the build. The reason for the way the thread stripped on the lathe was because you need to use tapping fluid on aluminium. Without tapping fluid, the tap will bind up and tear the thread. keep up the good work.
Fiberglass: Take your metal original cover to a fiberglass shop and they can make a mold and pop out several exact copies of the one that came with the car.
A few of points on the suspension. Like you’ve said, you really want the bump steer to be as close to zero as you can get. If you do have any, the preference is for the steering to unwind in compression. If you have it the other way you could be at the limit of tyre slip and a bump pushes you past that point with a sudden lose in grip. Modern tyres are a bit more tolerant of this though. Next point. With your damper mounts, you want the load path to pass through the ball joints in a straight line where possible. Packaging might compromise this but it should still be the aim to reduce bending loads in the A-Arm. Ackerman. The diagrams you have shown explain what 100% Ackerman is. This makes the car easy to push around the workshop. Once at speed, all four tyres will experience slip, which adds a steering element. I’d aim for about 80% Ackerman as a start point, especially if you plan on running at faster circuits. Maybe less. It might be worth working out what the original car had and starting there? Things to think about. Love your work Mike!
Yeah Ackerman doesn't really matter on a competition car. I have a collection of old F1 and Grand Prix books. The designers didn't worry about it. The higher loading of outside front wheel tends to force it to operate at a higher slip angle anyways. In one of my books they quote lotus's Colin Chapman as saying the only reason they put and Ackerman on their cars was for pushing them around the paddock.
In high school machine shop class (hey Cap Ewen) I was taught to insert smaller diameter parts, such as rods and so forth, as far into the three jaw as possible. Same with the drill bit. To minimize effects of wobble by imparting support . The other comments about tapping fluid are good info. Especially tapping aluminum. Great project ! It’s going to really be something to see it in action.
I'm not a wizard with a lathe but I think the chuck hold the drill bit moved ever so slightly as the bit hit the material.. keep up the great work and thanks for letting everyone follow along..
I really hope you are thinking ahead so that when you finish this project you organize some sort of show or event where those of who can are able to see this monster in the flesh, meet you, and pick up some merch. I’ve been watching every episode for what seems like forever and I’d love to also meet the Ford and E36.
The quality of work you put out is incredible. Part of me wishes you had a bigge team so you could do way more builds but that's just me being selfish and wanting to see what you would do with other cars cuz your builds are so cool and out of the norm. But I also love how you have episodes dedicated to the smallest "simplest" things cuz I learn so much. Other channels would just skip over all that and say ok we got the steering done now let's bolt on some generic parts everyone else has. Basically I really appreciate every thing about this channel and I hope it never goes away.
Engine cover fit idea. (DIY 2-3 days ) Mask the body/parts all around the engine cover. Put calibrated 3mm wax sheet or gap you want, (less 1 mm save, to can tune it) all around complicated corners/edges. Stright lines ...you can use calibrated foamed pvc (Stick it with doble side tape to the body). Then put your engine cover on and fill up,squeeze all gaps with same resin/composite, clamp it with tape gently without stressing the cover. You will have a strong and concistence, edge/gap all around the engine cover.
Stick to your vision.. it's not being picky if it's how you see it and want it. I really like where your going with the build and your vision. One person may see the beast but another the beauty. one the the most underrated builds on YT right now. As they say F the haters!
I just got done redoing most of the steering on my LS swapped Impreza and man.. It sure did teach me a lot about this stuff. I ended up with a mustang manual rack and the stock control arm. I dropped the control arm 3.5 inches and that got both the rack and arm on the same angle. It never occurred to me that I could have just put a spacer on the tie rod end. But both ways work.
Engine Cover. I'm sure you have thought of this so ignore me if you have. One option could be to use the original steel engine cover to make a mold and then build your own carbon fiber replacement. This keeps the genuine Ferrari item intact (to sell?), enables you to have design input and your not waiting for one to be delivered. As a bonus, you have a mold to make a quality part for sale if desired. Oh, big fan, great content
Also, the best way to reinforce your tie rod set up is build a bracket off the knuckle that puts the heim joint in double sheer instead of single sheer
I’ve never been able to understand bump steer. You’ve described it in a way that made it understandable to me as well as others I’m sure great job on the video production and explanation skills
Still have bump steer probs, Mike. Just get the longer ball joints! Looks like you're using K772's or something. Coleman makes longer tapered studs as well. That is what is going to fix your bump steer. Also, you're going to want to make the tie rod/upright connection double shear if you're planning to use such a tall spacer with that thru hole/bolt. The point of a tapered hole/shaft is to spread load evenly across the entire face of the taper and not at a single shear point as is the case here.
One good software I have used for suspension geometry is lotus suspension analysis software. You can enter all the key points of your suspension geometry and simulate those in road conditions. And once that's done you import those points into 3D space and work on your geometry. It saves a lot of time and you get pretty accurate results. One suggestion I can make for the coil over mounts is using a cross tube across the A-Arms instead of the plate and welding the brackets.
Maybe this is crazy talk, but there is no way in hades that I'd ever use aluminum on critical suspension parts, unless I had done a LOT of testing and analysis on the stresses and was certain of the alloy. Aluminum has no "endurance limit" and ALL aluminum parts will eventually fail from stresses that accumulate over time. Granted, with proper calculations, that eventuality might be beyond the expected life of the car, but that's if you're willing to really dig into the finite element analysis (FEA) of the exact parts and then design in safety factors and inspection schedules and replacement intervals (like they do in aerospace). I would personally use steel, which does have an endurance limit (meaning you can design it to last theoretically forever from a metal fatigue standpoint).
Replying to boost this comment, most just focusing on the threads though. Those threads going to see a lot of axial force. Like David said it’s hard to completely gauge safety margins without knowing completely about the drivers habits/course quality and general loading, but I’d be terrified of accidentally over-torquing the tie rod end and hitting a corner too hard. Even just threaded inserts of some form (helicoil) would boost confidence. Could just be my mechanical engineer paranoia, though. Car is looking fantastic as always
Another reply to boost, hope he will see this. One bump in the road and a slightly over- or under torqued nut and the thing goes snap or strips the threads.
regular drill bits drill a "triangle" hole. if youre doin a lot of the same size taps, maybe get a reamer to get the perfectly round hole for tapping. just sharing my youtube research haha
Late to the party but I've been binge watching your series for the past week or so to catch up, really enjoyed the content thanks! My current toy was meant to be a 6 month rebody of the old car into the E35 that blew out to 13 months when covid hit. My build process mimics yours and it's great that you show everything ups and downs included, thanks again. Looking forward to progress. PS. I only took pics to share with friends on Facebook but even that added so much time, your content and dedication is amazing!
I’m as enthusiastic about this build as you are Mike, I wish I were there to lend a hand. I would like to interject my 2 cents about the engine cover, I think having a body & paint guy fix the carbon cover is really not that big of a deal, especially since you’re doing the rest of the car. Like you previously mentioned, keeping the original steel cover intact and using it for “street” use when the wing is removed is SUCH an awesome idea, I hate to see you lose that option.
Hi Mike, the reason for the imperial thread size on the steering arms is because the rack was made in the UK. Cam Gears is the brand. Mini Cooper and 308 share the same steering rack.
Been following stance works as a whole since I was in high school. Been following the build since the beginning. You are a huge inspiration to me and have helped me visualize what I want my life to look like. Thank you and keep going
Definitely a amazing build. I always make time to watch this build. And seeing this car get closer and closer to finish gets me more pumped up to see it on the streets. Such a awesome build. For the engine cover, I suggest you get another original one and cut up that one and still have the original. Like I said I am super excited to see this in person soon!!
I was in the middle of listening to the HP podcast when I got the notification. Today is a good day. Definitely glad to see all of the improvements this episode! It definitely is worth doing right. Every half measure taken is another thing that can go wrong down the line. More boxes checked man!
Make a mould of the original engine cover and then make one in carbon yourself. There’s a guy on Instagram who made a carbon version of his Porsche frunk doing exactly that. Looks awesome!
I love it! Great to see those amazing former projects. I really appreciate the explanation of the more technical aspects of steering geometry. The cleanliness of your shop has inspired me to clean mine. In regards to the rear hood, if it were me I’d send the original to one of your carbon fiber specialists friends and have a super rad custom lid made. It put some mean vents on it with slats and maybe a scoop or something oil and functional, maybe see through plexiglass like the F40? The rear of the car is going to get the most attention and I wouldn’t want a second rate lid detracting from that feature. I’d make it the main focal point until you pop it and everyone’s head explodes when they see that turbo charged K!!! Keep up the awesome work !😎🤙🏽🙏🏽
A few points about tie rod ends. Clearance stacking can be an issue. Unsealed ends have a short life. They are very noisey. I agree with the post about aluminum steering parts and the need for left and right threads on the toe adjuster.
I wouldn't use aluminum parts on the steerer. Although the tensile and yield strength may seem close to some steels, fatigue properties are not. There will be galvanic corrosion and they tend to strip a thread plus un coated aluminum friction coefficient is not good for a fastener.
Oh the woes of a hand made 40 year old carbon lid! It's to bad the fitment is so poor, but it is good you're not just gonna settle. Loving the build! Exciting to see it getting so close!
You’re so personable that this whole series has made me want to be friends with you. I just wanna come by the shop and wrench and drink beers. Killer as always. Don’t stop chasing perfection on this one. You’re doing a great job!
With Project Binky wrapping up ive been looking for a unique build to follow. May this project never end. The rear 3/4 angle looks incredible and your editing and the educational/ informative style is very appreciated. Thanks for all the effort and hard work!
that is the best explanation of toe-out on turns I have heard, I can remember trying to explain it to a few apprentices I have had over the years, and you nailed it!
"fake the funk" I love it. Little Bad obsession motorsports reference. Love those guys, just wish they uploaded as often as you but I guess they are just busy making more brackets lol
Nice work as always! I think, and it looks like your drillbit is wobbeling, the flanks of the drill must be exactly the same length otherwise the drill will cut larger holes. I have done exact the same thing. Keep up!
i cannot do much wrenching beyond normal day to day, small stuff. But this is all like Magic to me, so I am glad you explain it out. Awesome build. And also 'the Finger of Knowledge Doust Returnth'
honestly keep up the CAD, just watching this series has pushed me to do the same, unfortunately I do not have a send cut send or a project but I am hoping to prototype some parts with 3D printing before getting them CNC'd simple things like gear shifters and eventually I want to make some carbon parts, maybe a relocation bracket to update my rear brakes one day. You are honestly lighting a fire under my ass and inspiring me to actually try and that's really cool, thank you
your cad work looks good, you should try and make tabs and receptacles to make the pieces self locating to each other when assembled/welded. use circles in the corners of the receptacles to deal with the corner radius made by waterjet/plasma cutter.
Totally makes sense to be stoked about steering, especially when the car has been sitting for as long as it has! It can be demoralizing looking at a static car for so long, so seeing it do "car things" again is super exciting!
Great work once again, looking forward to the 1st drive already! The original steel engine cover will be quite heavy to lift and will be a PITA, assuming that you can’t use hinges because the opening and closing of the cover is not possible normally because of the wing. So maybe carbon/kevlar is the way to go, even with the fitment issues. On the lathe and the problem with threads, maybe the piece or tool were not fully centered and the tool cut a larger hole than intended?
For the current engine cover, slice it to make semi permanent sections and easily removable sections. That may allow you more flexibility with getting the forward/pillars to have proper fitment and give you a engine cover that one person can easily remove.
Your opening comment made me wonder how involved it would be to ONLY go for the engine swap but keep the rest of the Ferrari as is, or as close as possible anyway.
Excellent episode Mike. I'm down for cutting the stock engine cover. A couple of slots ain't gonna hurt it... and if, in the year 2082, someone wants to put the car back to stock it won't be impossible😂.
I guess this is the joy of having a hand built car! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the engine cover. Awesome content as always bro.
Love it; up there with project binky! Have a look at the street Bandido carbon 240Z, use your steel engine cover and use as a plug to creat what you want. That way you can keep the steel one in great condition. Or easy composites have a great tutorial. Other tutorials are available 🤣
Mike, I don’t know how you find time to design and fabricate this entire build while simultaneously documenting it! Thanks for sharing the project with us!
Thanks for saying so!
word that is more skill then ill ever have. fabbin be tough yo!
That amazes me with all you guys building fantastic stuff and making such nice video production. Such great car!
Awesome stuff. The drilling on the lathe problem is because the drill bit was not sharpened correctly. While drilling, it forces itself of center thus making the hole bigger than the drill bit itself.
What sets your content apart is the fact that you have great content, along with amazing cinematography. You're the standard by which everyone else should be measured.
I would add a few holes in the bottom plates for the coilover brackets. That way water does not stand in them.
I used to chat with old-school Ferrari mechanic back in the mid 2000's . We talked a bunch about older (80's era) Ferraris and their oddball manufacturing techniques and parts sourcing. This actually came up when he said that you'd always get a surprise working on steering because of the part sourcing. The imperial / SAE tie rod ends are from Ferrari using vendor out of the UK for their steering components. He said that used to throw the younger mechanics off all the time. I think the company was called Cam Gear and they used to make steering components for Mini, Lotus, Rover etc.
True, I had a Dino 246GT, and I replaced the steering rack with that of a mini, same part for a fraction of the price 😉
This is the best car-project content on youtube (outside of Rob Dahm maaaybe). No clickbait ("its worse than we thought" "catastrophe" etc..). Great production. In depth everything. Cool background music. I enjoy.
Nothing against Mike, what he’s doing is phenomenal and in my opinion this is the 2nd best build on TH-cam.
But Project Binky is in that number 1 spot.
I'm glad you're going to the effort to make sure that engine cover is a perfect fit. If I wanted to see 'good enough' work... well, I'd go out in my garage and look at my own work. Watching your channel has definitely raised my standards. Thanks!
Mike just add some fiber reinforced fiberglass at the areas that show a gap... its really easy to do. It sets up super fast and is super strong. You will have it done in a day...
Glovehand is back!!!! The best pointer in the in the whole world. Low weight, high contrast, little image blocking and great range capability. By the way, great video and good to see the details in progress, even the mistakes.
Just FYI, you don't need your tie rod adjuster to have reverse threads. The inner tie rod spins without issues, that how it's adjusted on a regular tie rod on any rack and pinion. You created an extra adjustment that is redundant and unnecessary. Won't hurt anything, just not needed.
When you get the front steering angles figured out, please make a new set of steering arms that are higher to eliminate the bushing or additional brackets, and replace the Aluminum connector part with steel or Cr-mo,
its the weakest link on your "curb hopping" race car, 5x the power as before, large magnitude higher braking forces, higher G forces. Even a bump with a competitor might weaken it. Steering components should be steel or Cr-mo.
Remember to use the safety washer, or a nut bigger than the heim for single shear applications…. Also I would run the bolt head facing up, in case the nut gives out it stays in place
But probably you have it figured out haha !! So happy to see the progress and makes me want to build
I would’ve left it as a tapered hole and used a tie rod end. The issue with a bolt is you inherently have slop in straight cut holes. They take up slop the most efficient way possible by using a tapered hole and a tapered post bolt. Self centering, self aligning and free of free play regardless of temperature or expansion/contraction of the dissimilar metals.
@@RadDadisRad bolted joints are designed by clamp load and not for shear. You look at the friction, surface area, and torque used for that hardware size. The taper does provide alignment but his car is designed for more precise manipulation rather than easier set-up so the bolt to hole slop has no impact
@@jacobletts2043 The point of a tapered hole/shaft is to spread load evenly across the entire face of the taper and not at a single shear point as is the case here.
Tapers work really well but, you wouldn’t be able to adjust bump steer. You can design the bump steer out in design before manufacturing but, it does require some geometry knowledge.
Spent the last week or so binge-watching the series whenever I could find time. I owned a CRX for like 15 years and always dreamed of doing an engine swap and making it a beautiful car. Life got in the way. I've also always LOVED the 308... so this series is the perfect intersection of my car interests. Am loving living vicariously through you Mike. Thanks!
As someone not well versed in steering/suspension terms and applications, seeing what you mean by Ackerman angle and bump steer made total sense and gives perspective to how many factors you need to consider when designing custom suspension. The time spent on these videos is appreciated by us viewers big time. Keep it up Mike 💪🏻
Ackerman*
@@RadDadisRad as I said, not well versed 😂 Thanks for the correction!
No problem, suspension is like wizardry. It’s all based on dynamic implementation. That’s the hardest thing to calculate because it’s not static. I honestly don’t know how these companies come up with their multi link setups.
Great to see progress on the build. The reason for the way the thread stripped on the lathe was because you need to use tapping fluid on aluminium. Without tapping fluid, the tap will bind up and tear the thread. keep up the good work.
Fiberglass: Take your metal original cover to a fiberglass shop and they can make a mold and pop out several exact copies of the one that came with the car.
A few of points on the suspension. Like you’ve said, you really want the bump steer to be as close to zero as you can get. If you do have any, the preference is for the steering to unwind in compression. If you have it the other way you could be at the limit of tyre slip and a bump pushes you past that point with a sudden lose in grip. Modern tyres are a bit more tolerant of this though. Next point. With your damper mounts, you want the load path to pass through the ball joints in a straight line where possible. Packaging might compromise this but it should still be the aim to reduce bending loads in the A-Arm. Ackerman. The diagrams you have shown explain what 100% Ackerman is. This makes the car easy to push around the workshop. Once at speed, all four tyres will experience slip, which adds a steering element. I’d aim for about 80% Ackerman as a start point, especially if you plan on running at faster circuits. Maybe less. It might be worth working out what the original car had and starting there? Things to think about. Love your work Mike!
Thanks Woznaldo, I always wondered why it wasn't just as easy as setting "perfect" Ackerman and leaving it at that.
Yeah Ackerman doesn't really matter on a competition car. I have a collection of old F1 and Grand Prix books. The designers didn't worry about it. The higher loading of outside front wheel tends to force it to operate at a higher slip angle anyways.
In one of my books they quote lotus's Colin Chapman as saying the only reason they put and Ackerman on their cars was for pushing them around the paddock.
In high school machine shop class (hey Cap Ewen) I was taught to insert smaller diameter parts, such as rods and so forth, as far into the three jaw as possible. Same with the drill bit. To minimize effects of wobble by imparting support .
The other comments about tapping fluid are good info. Especially tapping aluminum.
Great project ! It’s going to really be something to see it in action.
I’ve been into cars for decades, and in a few moments I learned more about bump steer than ever before.
Well done!
I'm not a wizard with a lathe but I think the chuck hold the drill bit moved ever so slightly as the bit hit the material.. keep up the great work and thanks for letting everyone follow along..
That pointing finger on a stick gives me "Best Motoring" vibes. So good!
I really hope you are thinking ahead so that when you finish this project you organize some sort of show or event where those of who can are able to see this monster in the flesh, meet you, and pick up some merch. I’ve been watching every episode for what seems like forever and I’d love to also meet the Ford and E36.
This thing is more than a race car. It's a work of art and deserves a decent fitting hood.
Thought that first tap went in too easy! 😃
The quality of work you put out is incredible. Part of me wishes you had a bigge team so you could do way more builds but that's just me being selfish and wanting to see what you would do with other cars cuz your builds are so cool and out of the norm. But I also love how you have episodes dedicated to the smallest "simplest" things cuz I learn so much. Other channels would just skip over all that and say ok we got the steering done now let's bolt on some generic parts everyone else has. Basically I really appreciate every thing about this channel and I hope it never goes away.
Engine cover fit idea. (DIY 2-3 days ) Mask the body/parts all around the engine cover. Put calibrated 3mm wax sheet or gap you want, (less 1 mm save, to can tune it) all around complicated corners/edges. Stright lines ...you can use calibrated foamed pvc (Stick it with doble side tape to the body). Then put your engine cover on and fill up,squeeze all gaps with same resin/composite, clamp it with tape gently without stressing the cover. You will have a strong and concistence, edge/gap all around the engine cover.
Stick to your vision.. it's not being picky if it's how you see it and want it. I really like where your going with the build and your vision. One person may see the beast but another the beauty. one the the most underrated builds on YT right now. As they say F the haters!
I just got done redoing most of the steering on my LS swapped Impreza and man.. It sure did teach me a lot about this stuff. I ended up with a mustang manual rack and the stock control arm. I dropped the control arm 3.5 inches and that got both the rack and arm on the same angle. It never occurred to me that I could have just put a spacer on the tie rod end. But both ways work.
Engine Cover.
I'm sure you have thought of this so ignore me if you have. One option could be to use the original steel engine cover to make a mold and then build your own carbon fiber replacement. This keeps the genuine Ferrari item intact (to sell?), enables you to have design input and your not waiting for one to be delivered. As a bonus, you have a mold to make a quality part for sale if desired.
Oh, big fan, great content
Your little pointer finger stick is revolutionary
Also, the best way to reinforce your tie rod set up is build a bracket off the knuckle that puts the heim joint in double sheer instead of single sheer
I’ve never been able to understand bump steer. You’ve described it in a way that made it understandable to me as well as others I’m sure great job on the video production and explanation skills
Use a body guy to fit up your rear cover. Definitely doable and you’ll have the finish you want.
Great video. Finally some content over 16min.
👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽
You don't miss the mark mate, people just don't listen to you. Amazing project.
I’m loving the way you showcased this!! Hope you can keep doing it, with future projects!
Very impressed by your skill in building this car
I love the technical and nerdy aspects. Can't build a car (or follow a build) like this and not be nerdy
Still have bump steer probs, Mike. Just get the longer ball joints! Looks like you're using K772's or something. Coleman makes longer tapered studs as well. That is what is going to fix your bump steer. Also, you're going to want to make the tie rod/upright connection double shear if you're planning to use such a tall spacer with that thru hole/bolt. The point of a tapered hole/shaft is to spread load evenly across the entire face of the taper and not at a single shear point as is the case here.
I'm glad i have hung around to see this project come to fruition, amazing!
One good software I have used for suspension geometry is lotus suspension analysis software. You can enter all the key points of your suspension geometry and simulate those in road conditions. And once that's done you import those points into 3D space and work on your geometry. It saves a lot of time and you get pretty accurate results.
One suggestion I can make for the coil over mounts is using a cross tube across the A-Arms instead of the plate and welding the brackets.
Maybe this is crazy talk, but there is no way in hades that I'd ever use aluminum on critical suspension parts, unless I had done a LOT of testing and analysis on the stresses and was certain of the alloy. Aluminum has no "endurance limit" and ALL aluminum parts will eventually fail from stresses that accumulate over time. Granted, with proper calculations, that eventuality might be beyond the expected life of the car, but that's if you're willing to really dig into the finite element analysis (FEA) of the exact parts and then design in safety factors and inspection schedules and replacement intervals (like they do in aerospace). I would personally use steel, which does have an endurance limit (meaning you can design it to last theoretically forever from a metal fatigue standpoint).
Replying to boost this comment, most just focusing on the threads though. Those threads going to see a lot of axial force. Like David said it’s hard to completely gauge safety margins without knowing completely about the drivers habits/course quality and general loading, but I’d be terrified of accidentally over-torquing the tie rod end and hitting a corner too hard. Even just threaded inserts of some form (helicoil) would boost confidence.
Could just be my mechanical engineer paranoia, though. Car is looking fantastic as always
Another reply to boost, hope he will see this. One bump in the road and a slightly over- or under torqued nut and the thing goes snap or strips the threads.
regular drill bits drill a "triangle" hole. if youre doin a lot of the same size taps, maybe get a reamer to get the perfectly round hole for tapping. just sharing my youtube research haha
Late to the party but I've been binge watching your series for the past week or so to catch up, really enjoyed the content thanks!
My current toy was meant to be a 6 month rebody of the old car into the E35 that blew out to 13 months when covid hit.
My build process mimics yours and it's great that you show everything ups and downs included, thanks again.
Looking forward to progress.
PS. I only took pics to share with friends on Facebook but even that added so much time, your content and dedication is amazing!
I’m as enthusiastic about this build as you are Mike, I wish I were there to lend a hand. I would like to interject my 2 cents about the engine cover, I think having a body & paint guy fix the carbon cover is really not that big of a deal, especially since you’re doing the rest of the car. Like you previously mentioned, keeping the original steel cover intact and using it for “street” use when the wing is removed is SUCH an awesome idea, I hate to see you lose that option.
The gaps on the fiber glass edges you correct with resin filler or fiber glass matt.
Thankyou for the explanation of bump steer. I now know I need to address bump steer in my own car. Great vid dude 😎
Your fab work is ridiculous!! You do such a great job explaining the parts too. I admire this build!! Great stuff man
My god this channel brings me so much joy, big ups Mike.
Yes technical and nerdy! I’m here for it
My day is always instantly better when a Stanceworks video drops.
Hi Mike, the reason for the imperial thread size on the steering arms is because the rack was made in the UK. Cam Gears is the brand. Mini Cooper and 308 share the same steering rack.
Been following stance works as a whole since I was in high school. Been following the build since the beginning. You are a huge inspiration to me and have helped me visualize what I want my life to look like. Thank you and keep going
Good luck with your career vision Alex 👍
Amazing progress, wish I could see it in person.
Video posted right as I have a break in meetings. Perfect timing Mike!
Your CAD game is improving nicely 👍👍
Really love your philosophy of never cut corner! The quality of this built is amazing. Keep pushing.
There's something so clean about the way you're going about this Mike - absolutely loving it. Your hard work is going to pay off ;-)
Definitely a amazing build. I always make time to watch this build. And seeing this car get closer and closer to finish gets me more pumped up to see it on the streets. Such a awesome build. For the engine cover, I suggest you get another original one and cut up that one and still have the original. Like I said I am super excited to see this in person soon!!
I was in the middle of listening to the HP podcast when I got the notification. Today is a good day.
Definitely glad to see all of the improvements this episode! It definitely is worth doing right. Every half measure taken is another thing that can go wrong down the line.
More boxes checked man!
Great progress, you're very talented. Don't forget to run safety washers on the steering heims if you don't double shear.
Levi would be proud
This is an incredible build. Tuned in for the finish
Best build on youtube 👍
Make a mould of the original engine cover and then make one in carbon yourself. There’s a guy on Instagram who made a carbon version of his Porsche frunk doing exactly that. Looks awesome!
I love it! Great to see those amazing former projects. I really appreciate the explanation of the more technical aspects of steering geometry. The cleanliness of your shop has inspired me to clean mine. In regards to the rear hood, if it were me I’d send the original to one of your carbon fiber specialists friends and have a super rad custom lid made. It put some mean vents on it with slats and maybe a scoop or something oil and functional, maybe see through plexiglass like the F40? The rear of the car is going to get the most attention and I wouldn’t want a second rate lid detracting from that feature. I’d make it the main focal point until you pop it and everyone’s head explodes when they see that turbo charged K!!! Keep up the awesome work !😎🤙🏽🙏🏽
A few points about tie rod ends. Clearance stacking can be an issue. Unsealed ends have a short life. They are very noisey. I agree with the post about aluminum steering parts and the need for left and right threads on the toe adjuster.
I wouldn't use aluminum parts on the steerer. Although the tensile and yield strength may seem close to some steels, fatigue properties are not. There will be galvanic corrosion and they tend to strip a thread plus un coated aluminum friction coefficient is not good for a fastener.
man this thing is getting so close to done. will be good to see it done and look great on the road
Oh the woes of a hand made 40 year old carbon lid! It's to bad the fitment is so poor, but it is good you're not just gonna settle. Loving the build! Exciting to see it getting so close!
You’re so personable that this whole series has made me want to be friends with you. I just wanna come by the shop and wrench and drink beers. Killer as always. Don’t stop chasing perfection on this one. You’re doing a great job!
I for one ALWAYS learn something new watching this build. Thanks Mike and keep up the great work!👊👊
With Project Binky wrapping up ive been looking for a unique build to follow. May this project never end. The rear 3/4 angle looks incredible and your editing and the educational/ informative style is very appreciated. Thanks for all the effort and hard work!
We Have Steering! lol that really was very rewarding. and im just some guy *watching* it happen. still felt satisfying af
oh men i wish mike gets a proper cnc or lazer cutter sponsored he would do wonders with it
as ever, a great informative video. Loving the whole look of the car,simply stunning
Every Tuesday and Friday I impatiently wait to see the progress of this beautiful build.
Lathe threading operations never cease to boggle my mind.. Glad to hear things are working out with Rotiform!
Well done with the car bro enjoy the ride bro!
Every episode makes me wanna fabricate something for my car. Also makes me learn CAD.
Watching from Philippines
never been this early before! Greatest video quality/content on TH-cam!!
that is the best explanation of toe-out on turns I have heard, I can remember trying to explain it to a few apprentices I have had over the years, and you nailed it!
Mike, I'm the Jim. Thanks for letting me geek out and lose my facilities the other day. Love your content and your attention to detail.
Super excited to see the wheels!
"fake the funk" I love it. Little Bad obsession motorsports reference. Love those guys, just wish they uploaded as often as you but I guess they are just busy making more brackets lol
Nice work as always!
I think, and it looks like your drillbit is wobbeling, the flanks of the drill must be exactly the same length otherwise the drill will cut larger holes. I have done exact the same thing.
Keep up!
i cannot do much wrenching beyond normal day to day, small stuff. But this is all like Magic to me, so I am glad you explain it out. Awesome build. And also 'the Finger of Knowledge Doust Returnth'
So glad you pointed out the lever straight away. 😂
honestly keep up the CAD, just watching this series has pushed me to do the same, unfortunately I do not have a send cut send or a project but I am hoping to prototype some parts with 3D printing before getting them CNC'd simple things like gear shifters and eventually I want to make some carbon parts, maybe a relocation bracket to update my rear brakes one day. You are honestly lighting a fire under my ass and inspiring me to actually try and that's really cool, thank you
your cad work looks good, you should try and make tabs and receptacles to make the pieces self locating to each other when assembled/welded. use circles in the corners of the receptacles to deal with the corner radius made by waterjet/plasma cutter.
Totally makes sense to be stoked about steering, especially when the car has been sitting for as long as it has! It can be demoralizing looking at a static car for so long, so seeing it do "car things" again is super exciting!
thank you for sharing so much information regarding your build, really amazing, thank you very much.
Steering is not boring! Feels exciting to me!
Carbon cover - what about a colab with Industry Garage for the engine cover?
Great work once again, looking forward to the 1st drive already! The original steel engine cover will be quite heavy to lift and will be a PITA, assuming that you can’t use hinges because the opening and closing of the cover is not possible normally because of the wing. So maybe carbon/kevlar is the way to go, even with the fitment issues. On the lathe and the problem with threads, maybe the piece or tool were not fully centered and the tool cut a larger hole than intended?
For the current engine cover, slice it to make semi permanent sections and easily removable sections. That may allow you more flexibility with getting the forward/pillars to have proper fitment and give you a engine cover that one person can easily remove.
Man your narration is pretty good. Could narrate audio books in your spare time.
Your opening comment made me wonder how involved it would be to ONLY go for the engine swap but keep the rest of the Ferrari as is, or as close as possible anyway.
Excellent episode Mike. I'm down for cutting the stock engine cover. A couple of slots ain't gonna hurt it... and if, in the year 2082, someone wants to put the car back to stock it won't be impossible😂.
I guess this is the joy of having a hand built car! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with for the engine cover. Awesome content as always bro.
Love it; up there with project binky! Have a look at the street Bandido carbon 240Z, use your steel engine cover and use as a plug to creat what you want. That way you can keep the steel one in great condition. Or easy composites have a great tutorial. Other tutorials are available 🤣
the carbon cartoon (carboon?) pointer is unironically and pun intendedly very handy to point out information