That "ramping" was the MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) circuit. Since you are pulling from a battery pack that can easily supply 1000watts it just maxes out the inverter. If it was a 220watt solar panel it would ramp up the load until the wattage maxes out using something called "Perturb and Observe" where it increases current load and observes the wattage. If wattage increases it increases the current. If wattage decreases it backs off. It does this in little steps all day long.
No dispute there, i learned the hard way about driving cheap chinese tech at its rating. If i buy one, it would only be loaded to 500 watts, and would be switched with relays only when by batteries are full :)
Haha i know mate, i don't actually use a chinese inverter (seen way too many bad reviews). I'm actually using an old UPS as my inverter at the moment which i can get 93% efficiency out of. I am only really powering my server and desktop pc from the system at the moment, but its pretty reliable especially considering i live across the pond in the normally cold dark and wet uk. This abnormal weather is a welcome break from the norm. :)
Just a dumb truck driver here... Twenty years ago, Pilot truck stops had a deal where they were, as they advertised it, selling a 1Kw inverter, and giving away a free microwave oven. The pricing, at the time, was evidence of the reverse. Twenty years later, the inverter is still doing its job, and the microwave is long dead. Unfortunately, my inverter only has a modified sine wave output (probably why the microwave died), so I have to be careful with what I plug into it... But, it'll also surge to double its continuous rating for an observed five minutes. Perfect for power tools! (Unless you're Tool Time Tim) During a couple power outages, I have run a double male drop cord from the truck to the kitchen, and kept the fridge cool. At my house, this is easy as there's a outdoor outlet on the kitchen circuit. Just cut the kitchen circuit breaker to isolate it, plug in the drop cord, and it's on. It's good for the fridge, clock, and a few lights. Optimized Idle (Automatic engine start and stop to maintain truck interior climate and battery) automatically keeps the truck's batteries charged, so it's a "No Worries" type of thing when done right.
DrFruikenstein I like the innovative thinking to keep the fridge running. The double male cord and circuit isolation is a sneaky solution to keep things running. Def want to keep that cord safely stowed. Pity there isn't a cheap readily available legit solution on the market. There are auto power switchovers made for Gen to mains switching but they aren't cheap.
Another trick... UPS... Those "Un-interruptible" power backup supplies for computers. They work for lamps, stereos, clocks, TVs, and many other things as well. They're also cheap, if you know what you're doing... People don't know that the batteries are replaceable, so they toss them out as soon as they fail. Find one that someone gave up on, and go to Wal-Mart to get a replacement gell-cell lead acid battery. Or step up the game, and put together a small LiFePo4 battery pack for it to get a bit more capacity.
DrFruikenstein The more energy dense Li-ion groupings of chemistrys, usually in the 18650 format can be used for 24v or 48v systems due to their similar charge and discharge voltages in lead acid denominations of 12s and lion of 7s.
Bob Lob Law When replacing lead acid with lithium type cells, I've found that LiFePo4 cells are much more forgiving than the other lithium types. Especially when being constantly charged in a UPS system. With the other lithium chemistries, I've noticed some overheating issues when connected lead acid type charging systems.
Happened to notice at about 5:30 when the fan was on and things were a bit stabilized... the DC was feeding about 1140W into the inverter and the output to the grid was about 960W.... That's about 16% energy losses, which is what is making the inverter heat up quickly. I wonder if a pricier inverter is more energy efficient and how much usage would warrant paying for the more expensive (presumably more efficient) inverter?
How did it work out I am planning on doing the exact same thing you are. I am going to to use 2x1300 watt 220 inverters and forklift battery with 3800watts of solar
Good tests. It would be nice to have an individual inverter that is powered by batteries which were recharged with solar to join in right when an appliance starts using the amount of power that inverter provides.
Thank you very much for testing this. I've been considering a small solar setup to offset some of my current power costs and was curious to see one in action. A lot of my load is borderline resistive, or continual load such as laptops and A/C (I live far north so I just use a small ~ 1/2 ton A/C unit) and so solar with grid tie would be ideal to offset that cost. I needed to see exactly how this unit functioned under load and such and you showed every stat I needed to know. Thanks!
I used one of these as a test unit before moving to a fancier version that monitors the AC usage in your house and then turns itself down when the power isn't needed. To avoid back feeding into your meter. I'm using it to offset the usage of my pool pump. Similar to what you want to do with your AC. It's still a made in China thing but it has more advanced features and an lcd screen. I believe it also has protection so that it will turn itself off before draining your battery completely. I am running mine from panels so I haven't used that feature.
Word to the wise but please open that up and make sure all mosfets are firmly tightened down AND actually has the thermal pad/paste between each one. Common thing is they are loose, barely tight, and/or do not have the thermal pad/paste and POOF/POP dead.
So, in the process of conversion, at your input voltage, it's losing about 20-25% of the input. Or it's output is about 75% of the input. I am curious if it is more efficient when feeding it a higher input voltage. The ones I see listed can accept up to 50vdc. At 36vdc, it has to boost it higher. In any event, if the losses are about 300watts between input and output, that is a fancy 300watt heater. Use three of them and you have to expell nearly 1000 watts of heat. That is great for winter, to add direct heat into your house, but horrible in winter, where that heat has to be expelled outside. (Thus, it will be replaced with hot outside air, being drawn in to the place you mount the inverters.) It seems to be using the heat generated as the "output restriction". If you ran these in the winter, they might stay a constant 1000w output and possibly have lower losses or draw from the input side. Being 75% efficient is nothing to brag about. You have to buy 25% more solar cells and inverters, to get the desired output. If you add the 75% efficiency of charging... Then you actually need 50% to 65% more solar cells and batteries and battery chargers too. It's worth paying 4x more for a 98% efficient inverter that operates at a higher input voltage and would handle all 3000watts without losing nearly 1000watts in the process. Getting an output of 3000watts, but consuming 1000watts, for a total of 4000watts of input, with 1000watts having to be disposed of, as heat, is quite bad.
I had two similar units running my solar. They lasted about 6 months to a year. The mosfet's burned up first. I was able to fix the issue once or twice. After that I couldn't diagnose the problem and gave up on the unit. I was considering a much nicer unit but never pulled the trigger.
That 59amps I would probably use 4awg, or better yet 2 #10 in parallel as it is easier to get. The bigger the wire the less your losses in heat and voltage drop. The extra cost of the wire quickly makes up for the cost over time.
I have a 600w version of this and I noticed that it was interfering with all my internet powerline adapters. It was making the internet connection unstable. I ended up replacing the powerline adapters with ethernet connections. So far so good. No devices blowing up. I even have a 3 phase 5kw inverter in sync with this with no issues so far.
Powerline internet can't go across a transformer that will change voltage. Also they depend on a sine wave filter, if your inverter is under load and is not a pure sine wave than your data will be corrupted. You might find that a couple of large capacitors will buffer and allow you to use that equipment again.
@@johnschneider931 Funny enough, it has blown the capacitors inside my Tenda powerline which is very close to the 600w china made inverter....so I guess these are not pure sine inverters after all so be careful people.
What size panels are you running to either of your two units? Do you find that you’re running more voltage/panels in excess of what the wattage says in order to try to even come close to that Wattage? Example, 3 panels 300 watts each which is 900 watts feeding the 600 watt Inverter to get it to produce the 600 watts or close to it?
Unless you have net metering, beware that a normal "smart" electric power meter may actually charge you for power sent back to the grid. If your air conditioner pulls 240 volts, you may want to put a grid tie on two different circuits that are on different main power legs at your breaker, else you may be sending excess power on one leg back to the grid (and being charged for it) even when your air conditioner is running.
There are versions of this inverter that have a little clamp that you hook onto your Mains and it monitors how much power you need and will turn itself down to avoid putting Excess power into your house and meter.
Yes, the clamp meter you describe is called a limiter and is a good idea. But I think the inverter must be relatively close to the breaker box as the cable between the inverter and the limiter may only be so long.
When theses things plug into the wall outlet, isn’t it a problem for these inverters to pump electricity back through those home lines? I’m mostly concerned if the outlet won’t be able to take the current.
I have the 10 to 30 volt 1000w version running with 10 100w solar pannels no batteries and it cut my light bill in halve. Has been running for 10 month with no problems. If I have to replace once a year for $100 it is still worth it to me. I also have a $80 600w inverter on 36v hover board batteries that I run at night. I charge them with 2 230w 24v solar panels. Running for 6 months no problem. It dropped my light bill even further. These things work great! They are stackable so at times I run both of them at the same time.
I thought the same thing.They haven't yet. I also thought the meter would charge for energy going out but no. If they ever show up all I have to do is unplug inverter from the socket. Believe it or not!
Ruben Salazar lol what state are you on I'm in california and there is rarely any clouds so I was thinking of just connecting an inverter disconnecting my room from the grid key room is like a shead because its separated from the house garage size and having an inverter act as the grid and my grid tie powering the ac with solar
I'm in Texas. Sounds cool. Before my 600w grid tie inverter I was running my kitchen and living room with a 900w non grid tie inverter. I isolated from grid by flipping circuit breaker.
Could you tell me how them grid tie inverters ended up holding up. I,m thinking about getting a few of them but don,t want to waste my time if there not very good. TKS
I have a cheap Giandel 1200 inverter in my van and it's performed very well. IMO, The hardest thing to run from an inverter is a cook top. I have an 800 Watt electric grill that tripped the fault until i moved the inverter inside the engine bay and connected it with massive 1awg 12 inch copper lines. However, i now have a new issue.. Is the inverters fault affected by heat? my battery was reading 13v, but the inverter kept tripping even with mild power draw. In the morning it when the engine was cold it worked great, but now the engine and the inverter was VERY hot from running the engine and the sun. Does this make sense?
I'd definitely move that inverter somewhere cooler. This is a gigantic simplification, but you could think of the inverter as a tiny person doing work. Imagine he's capable of doing 100 units of work (100% of his maximum output). He'll have no issue doing that if the weather is cooler. But if the weather gets so hot that he's already close to his maximum tolerable temperature before he even starts working, his peak amount of work is going to be greatly reduced. Put simply, there's an inverse relationship between how hot the temperature and how much power something can put out before it blows up/burns up. Even alternators drop in output as they heat up. Plus, heat is super hard on things like electrolytic capacitors of which power supplies/inverters tend to have many. Personally, I'd move the inverter as close to the battery as I can get it, but also making sure it's located in a place that's as cool as possible. If you tend to have a high load for long periods, it might be worth it to toss a 12V computer/electronics type fan pointing at the heatsink itself as well. Another thing that may help is to use one of the large "stiffening" capacitors used in high end mobile audio. They'll have a pile of input buffering caps already, but adding a large 1/2 to 1 farad unit as close as you can get to the inverter (like, right beside it, 6" wires between it and the inverter) may help to prevent supply sagging for large initial peaks and prevent it tripping. Myself, I'd start with moving it somewhere cooler. If it still has temp issues, add a secondary blower/fan. Last, if it still works, but it's marginal (as in, seems fine with a 100% SOC of the battery, but trips/freaks out once it drops a bit), then maybe try the stiffening cap. A mobile installer place may even be willing to help you try one out first just to see if it's effective in the setup you have. Best of luck! :)
Good stuff Jehu. I'm looking to take advantage of the Nissan leaf sitting in my driveway if the grid power in our area should be disrupted. I've heard that you can run a 12v inverter on the car battery and if you the car in park with the power on, the traction battery (24kw) will keep the 12v car battery charged. If that works, how big of an inverter can I safely run on it and/or how big of an inverter would I need to run a refrigerator (according to the sticker inside it's rated at 8.5amps (don't know the watts)), and a second refrigerator rated at 4.5amps, and maybe a lamp or 2 for basic lighting, and if there's anything left over, maybe a smart tv (I think it's a 55").
For all people you need to check the how frequency looks like(sine, square wave, modified sine wave...) and the HZ, If you want it to be the same as the house it should be Pure Sine Wave 60hz in US and 50hz in EU and that before you buy an inverter. Im a new subscriber and i wonder does that power wall power your entire house? Because if so i wonder how that tiny extension cord carries all that power
jehugarcia no its far away i was just wondering if you had like a few inverters to power your house during a power out im sorry for not explaining well
I have been using 9 of the smaller GTI on a solar installation for years, they work great.I would say that I always apply the AC supply before the DC when powering up, and disconnect the DC before the AC when powering down. (I did blow a few MOSFET's early on)Also for running 1000 watts continuous it would be safer with 2 working in parallel.
so if were to use one tof these with out going thru all the "CODE/PERMIT" crap what would the electric company say? . . would they even be aware that i was back feeding? Since there is no bi directional meter on the electric ones?
@@mikeriverajr4447 I think it depends on the company in general, some do it automatically and won't care others require you set up special billing with them to track how much you feed back.
In typical grid tie on day the ac will go out… and the device will have to endure a DC then AC startup.. I’ve never had a problem with my GTI during that type of condition.
@@benparkin3191 I think this may have been a problem with the older cheap GTI,s. I did have a few problems early on, and rightly or wrongly assumed it was the way the device was powering up. Over the last few years I came to the same conclusions as you, power the DC first then AC. I still have a few of the smaller GTI's (350W) in a cupboard that need fixing :-(
I bought the exact same inverter the 12 volt input inverter but it blows a 100 amp DC circuit breaker within two minutes of connection to my single 12 volt AGM 76 AH battery ? I thought 100 amp breaker would do the job ?
Are these things saftey complaint and shut off in a powercut so you dont go electricuting some electric worker trying too fix the power. And can you still use it too power your house in a power cut as long as you turn your mains switch in your consumer unit?
Think it tapered off with the drop in supply battery voltage? Secondly, you’re a cowboy without an interconnect agreement with PG&E? Most likely they have a digital meter on your house, are you worried about the meter sensing any watts going back up the line? I’d like to do similar, but not get any hassle from the power company.
Me too! The only way to get a interconnect agreement here, is if you buy a complete house system and its installed by Company! wich is about $20,000. I dont care if i give back a couple of Watts but if the Power company is going to charge me then NO. I bought a 1000 watt inverter with limiter but havent connected it yet.
I have a string inverter in my garage that was professionally installed and it puts up to 4000 watts back into the grid. Since I did it right, my meter can go backwards and I don't have to run grid-tie inverters only when the air is on. My question is, what happens if I also plug a small grid-tie inverter like you have into my house somewhere? I have extra solar panels that I'd love to use the energy of. The DC voltage would be too low to add those panels as an extra string on my main inverter. If I buy a little grid-tie inverter like you have, I'm worried the two inverters will compete for the highest voltage. Also, if I have a power outage, won't each inverter trick the other inverter into thinking grid power is still on and they'd maintain power output? I definitely don't want to cause harm to a lineman. You're talking about using multiple small 1000 W inverters at once though so you might know how that works. Thanks in advance!
Hi there ...so the part @ 7:27time line is running of a 12.7 volt battery inverter 10DC minimum and you have 1000w....no problem? I ask you this because of the inverter diagram 10DC version wants a minimum 18volt and not to run of the load side of charge controler. ?? What's your take on this.! Love the electric VW ROCK ON!! ( IRELAND )
Grid tie inverters won't feed the grid when power is out. They actually need the grid supply present to Operate..... i.e. it senses the presence of grid supply, then it turns on....
@@SAHILKHAN-lu8oq without the grid during power outage im using pure sine wave inverter from battery as grid my battery 20ah last the whole day using my grid tie..(load depends on inverter capacity)
I’ve got one of those grid time inverters and have four 300 Watt panels hooked to it and even then the middle of the day with the East Texas direct sun I cannot get that inverter to produce over roughly 540 -560 watts. Have you by chance tested the voltage of the two leads that you have connected to the inverter prior to connecting them? The reason I ask is because before I connect mine the voltage coming through the cables shows roughly 39 1/2 Volt, but as soon as I connect it to the inverter and the inverter starts running or is turned off and I put my voltage meter on both of the leads it’s reading in the mid 27 Volt range. I have no clue what’s going on or why that would be, any thoughts? Nobody has
My utility doesn't allow putting these small inverters on the grid. They only have a certain number of larger approved one or solar approved and they can detect if you are feeding back in with their smart meter and then see if you have gotten approval and if not, you will get a letter in the mail...
The power company is not going to waste their time tracking all these people down, and threatening them with cut off. They hope you will just not try... And if they do cut you off, find an attorney and get a class action law suit together.
@@JohnBoen Oh they do, I've already read a few times where they have in my city. They don't want their linemen killed by cheap inverters that fail to turn off when power is out.
So bottom line is, these units are going to always be at full power unless your whole house is using less than 1,000 watts? But you can use several in parallel?
Hi, I use this tie inverter in my solar intallation, work pretty good. I'm look for a way that connect this tie inverte direct to my battery without get out too much amperes as this tie inverter is MPPT type. You can say the way to connect this tie inverter direct to my 12v battery and only getout 5 amperes? I know that in this case not generate the total watts. thanks
1000W Solar Panels on Grid Tie Inverter GTIL2 & Limiter for Home PV Battery Connected there a 3 models 25v-60v/45v-90v and 2000watt version more expensive but better built i have both 25v-60v and 45v-90v looking at building own power walls for these systems.
good video. A question, I want to install a laser printer of approximately 550w 115v. What inverter could I use, modified wave? how many watts ?. I would use the printer very lightly during the day. Thank you
Little late to answer, but I believe you need a pure sine inverter for a laser printer. There are a couple items like laser printer and lcd clock that need pure sine to function correctly.
It will burn up running at max in a short time. I use a boost converter and set the max amps to keep the inverter from hitting a max 1000w. On my 48v system I use a buck converter to do the same thing
Hi - I'm running two 120cell 32Vmp 7.92Imp 256W panels in parallel with African sun power into the 20-45V to 230Vac model but the best grid power I've monitored so far is 350W (ac). Very disappointed but hoping somebody can help. Input Voltage and current are well within spec but the units just don't generate anywhere near the power they should. The panels do deliver 500W with an ePever 3210AN MPPT controller. I can only think the Grid tie MPPT software is terrible.
Jake Stephens I have wondered something similar. I want a system where I can plug into "shore power" and it charge my batteries, and once the batteries are full it sends the extra power to the grid, but I don't know what units can do a shore power thing and grid tie while being off grid. So, it's similar, but.... Different. There is an inverter generator by renogy that plugs into the grid to charge the batteries, but I don't know if it sends the extra power to the grid once the batteries are full or not. www.renogy.com/renogy-2000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger/
Hey if you took one of these inverters and hooked it to one side of a 22o volt ac braker then took another one of these inverters and hooked up to the other side of the 220 ac braker would it run a 220 ac unit.Thank you. God bless.
When you're feeling for temp on the battery pulling almost 60 amps towards the end, you missed a vital spot. The connection usually melts first. Touch that first to test for temperature.
Wrong. The part with the least mass, the highest electrical resistance and the least cooling is the part that melt first. Which is not the connector because it neither have the least cooling or the highest electrical resistance.
@jehugarcia you might wanna look into getting an inverter AC, they're much more efficient and don't have that huge power spike and ramping down duty cycle.
What would happen if you connected a grid tied inverter (1000watts) to a stand alone sine wave inverter(1000)??? Have you effectively made a 2000 watt grid totally off grid? Would grid tied and inverts work together?
Just got one of these , is it normal for them to make a noticeable / audible Buzzing sound while it is running before the fans get going?? I fired mine upto today heard lots of buzzing and sorta stepping and decided to turn it off
You're in California, right? I would not be a bit surprised if the state outlawed the use of these inverters because they don't meet UL1741. Or if Amazon wasn't allowed to sell in CA just like some 2 cycle engines cannot be sold in CA through a lot of online retailers.
hrm not a bad inverter, question dont you need the grid tie limited? otherwise the power meter will actually run faster depending on how smart the meter is, you also will not get paid for power going to the grid so why bother running it, i know you will have a control to swich on the inverters (im very intrigued how you are going to hook that up) but for that time that the inverters are still on once the ac has just turned off you might get charged with the power even though it is going back to the grid. just a concern as to what is actually happening.
Short runs of cable can handle quite a bit more than its rated amperage. I run 140 amps through 4 gauge cable all the time for heating elements as long as they don't get over five feet long or so.
Hang on guys (love your work Jehu) I don’t understand why we’re putting 1000W back into grid if what we actually want is to run an AC unit. Please help me understand this if its related. I mean if we’re going to simulate an AC load for AC unit then the inverter may perform differently? Thanks guys!
The inverters that you use can not be used together with others on the same wiring. Just a thought. The solar industry has mini inverters that are attached to each solar panel. Can those be used with batteries and have the batteries charged by solar giving you the ability to aliminate your incoming pud power?
Im working quite often with solar power in my line of work but i have never seen said ´mini´ inverters. It dosn´t sound like a eficient / good sulution. A normal solar sytstem has many solar cells conected in series and then gets hooked up to one large inverter that pushes the energy into the grid.
Nino Joel they attach directly to the back of the solar panels one each. Then instead of batteries they feed there power back to the grid , they must be able to ty together for a tottal ac.
Bad Bob Bigger solar system never use batteries and rather just push the available energy in the grid. Id love to se a picture of these smal inverters that you mean since I relay cant find any reason someone builds these.
Hi there, are you running the inverter just off a battery on this video? I want a battery only grid-tie inverter but everything from China seems to be solar panel related and when I speak to the people on alibaba they seem to suggest that a solar panel must be connected and the battery is for ‘backup’. I want to use the battery to charge on my economy 7 rate (low price) and then use it when the electricity rate is more expensive. Tempted to stack 5 of these inside a well ventilated custom housing with additional fans to give myself a 5kw grid tie inverter running off a bmw i3 battery (60Ah) in parallel at 44v. Thoughts?
Thanks for the review. I've just bought the same inverter and now I know how it will work. May I know what hardware(software) do you use to monitor and analize power usage of you AC grid?
Bro help I have solar already I want to add 2 300w solar panel using plug and play inverter that can be plug in regular 110v outlet, I watched a lot of your video I know you are very knowledgeable, if I do my play if turned off AC disconnect, will the plug and play inverter will shut off too? Help please
Great video as always, I am concerned about your extension cord (your power grid). If you had one that had a higher capacity it may protect your home and family better (in my humble opinion, safety first).
Great video I'm curious I have a grid-tied inverter but its range is 36 volts however all of my panels are 41 volts is there a way to lower the voltage on the panels so they can meet the range of the grid-tied inverter and I can start using it thank you
Very nice vid. very informative... I'd like to know one thing tho. How do you protect batteries to over discharge with this kind of inverter? I have a small bank with 60ah on 24v and 2 275w Solar panels charging it.
I would have placed a 25A current limiter on the input side of the GTI. They are not designed to run from battery inputs (unlimited input current), they are meant to run from Solar only with has a max input current.
Amazing video thanks for sharing. I have one of this 500 w inverter, how many Solar panels of 100 watts 36 cells can I connect to this inverter? I mean looking for the best efficiency. Thanks in advance
Depends on the panel and the environment. Different panels are rated different and your environment will play a large part in how much power you get/waste
Just in time I was thinking of buying one I just bough the mpt-7210a to charge my ebike but I got a total of 960w solar system and that cant take advantage of all that power but I also want to do it because the ac pulls about 700w but then I'm scared my ac will turn off and then my meter count backwards then the power company will come
Same issue I’m having. Curious when I see people test these online and it’s like they’re working perfect, but whenever I’m running over 1400 Watts to one of these thousand converters I can’t get the damn thing to go over 560 Watts??? IDK
@@Wrensspeedshop Many of these devices are scams. Someone took a 600w converter and turned it into a 1000w converter by simply re-sticking the sticker. The golden one I had came to 816w and the syllable only to 328. If the watt numbers fluctuate a bit and it doesn't get any more then not enough comes out of the panels or the converter is damn inefficient. If the wattage stays at a very specific number and always stays the same, then the limit of the converter has been reached. By the way, both of mine broke after 3 weeks.
can we use normal lead acid battery's inverter for this purpose ?.....i wish to replace stand-by lead acid bank to li-ion ones. So, do they sufficient for that purpose
The inverter dos not care where the input voltage comes from. The only thing that matters is that the baterys can handle the amps. Also check that the inverter is made to output into the grid (If you plan on doing so ) since most of them cant.
Nino Joel Thanks for that You mean I should check the amps it could handle. Isn't it ? Ok I will look after that. But inverter is for DC to AC so, why we should look at amps into batteries They were source in this case not load. Please clear this to me.
sai krishna I mean that the battery needs to output manny amps without getting damaged / overheating. So be sure to check what amperage the inverter pulls from the batterys. As for the inverter part you need a inverter that produces a pure sine wave and has some frequency sync functions if you want to push the energy into the grid. You won't need to check that if just you use it to power things of grid.
Since your home is using electricity before the AC turns on and the inverter is just below 1000 watts, that means you need more than 5000 watts of inverter power before they are off peak wattage.
@Mykel Hardin Tesla power wall, a unit that mounts on the wall that contains batteries, not a full wall of batteries, his comment makes sense, yours doesn't.
Is there some optimal chinese converter working from car's 12-14volts? Could you recommend something? I want to supply air compressor 2.2kw to pump tractor's tyres, and some other instruments
That "ramping" was the MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) circuit. Since you are pulling from a battery pack that can easily supply 1000watts it just maxes out the inverter. If it was a 220watt solar panel it would ramp up the load until the wattage maxes out using something called "Perturb and Observe" where it increases current load and observes the wattage. If wattage increases it increases the current. If wattage decreases it backs off. It does this in little steps all day long.
Hi. I have a 300w version and a 100w solar panel. Works realy well
Proyectos LED Gastón , que hacés por acá jajaja me compré un panel de 150 w por mirar tus vídeos. Abrazo
Hola Gastón!! Jaja también por tu culpa adquirí un inverter y dos paneles. Saludos a la comunidad de Proyectos LED!
Have u has any troubles with urs
is it still good and running without any problems?
Pleasantly surprised, honestly did not expect them to actually output the full KW. More likely to invest in 1 now :)
achieving 1kW is easy. Doing it efficiently isnt and that inverter certainly is not efficient...
None of them are, i stand by my comment...
No dispute there, i learned the hard way about driving cheap chinese tech at its rating. If i buy one, it would only be loaded to 500 watts, and would be switched with relays only when by batteries are full :)
Haha i know mate, i don't actually use a chinese inverter (seen way too many bad reviews). I'm actually using an old UPS as my inverter at the moment which i can get 93% efficiency out of. I am only really powering my server and desktop pc from the system at the moment, but its pretty reliable especially considering i live across the pond in the normally cold dark and wet uk. This abnormal weather is a welcome break from the norm. :)
doh APC inverters are the muts mate, but you want the 1500 and above for true sine apparently. :)
Just a dumb truck driver here...
Twenty years ago, Pilot truck stops had a deal where they were, as they advertised it, selling a 1Kw inverter, and giving away a free microwave oven.
The pricing, at the time, was evidence of the reverse.
Twenty years later, the inverter is still doing its job, and the microwave is long dead.
Unfortunately, my inverter only has a modified sine wave output (probably why the microwave died), so I have to be careful with what I plug into it...
But, it'll also surge to double its continuous rating for an observed five minutes.
Perfect for power tools! (Unless you're Tool Time Tim)
During a couple power outages, I have run a double male drop cord from the truck to the kitchen, and kept the fridge cool.
At my house, this is easy as there's a outdoor outlet on the kitchen circuit. Just cut the kitchen circuit breaker to isolate it, plug in the drop cord, and it's on.
It's good for the fridge, clock, and a few lights.
Optimized Idle (Automatic engine start and stop to maintain truck interior climate and battery) automatically keeps the truck's batteries charged, so it's a "No Worries" type of thing when done right.
DrFruikenstein I like the innovative thinking to keep the fridge running. The double male cord and circuit isolation is a sneaky solution to keep things running. Def want to keep that cord safely stowed.
Pity there isn't a cheap readily available legit solution on the market. There are auto power switchovers made for Gen to mains switching but they aren't cheap.
Another trick...
UPS...
Those "Un-interruptible" power backup supplies for computers. They work for lamps, stereos, clocks, TVs, and many other things as well.
They're also cheap, if you know what you're doing...
People don't know that the batteries are replaceable, so they toss them out as soon as they fail. Find one that someone gave up on, and go to Wal-Mart to get a replacement gell-cell lead acid battery. Or step up the game, and put together a small LiFePo4 battery pack for it to get a bit more capacity.
DrFruikenstein The more energy dense Li-ion groupings of chemistrys, usually in the 18650 format can be used for 24v or 48v systems due to their similar charge and discharge voltages in lead acid denominations of 12s and lion of 7s.
Bob Lob Law
When replacing lead acid with lithium type cells, I've found that LiFePo4 cells are much more forgiving than the other lithium types. Especially when being constantly charged in a UPS system. With the other lithium chemistries, I've noticed some overheating issues when connected lead acid type charging systems.
I think a lot of people are forgetting the older low frequency inverters have a transformer, and heavy, but have triple surge rating, my two cents :-)
Happened to notice at about 5:30 when the fan was on and things were a bit stabilized... the DC was feeding about 1140W into the inverter and the output to the grid was about 960W.... That's about 16% energy losses, which is what is making the inverter heat up quickly. I wonder if a pricier inverter is more energy efficient and how much usage would warrant paying for the more expensive (presumably more efficient) inverter?
How did it work out I am planning on doing the exact same thing you are. I am going to to use 2x1300 watt 220 inverters and forklift battery with 3800watts of solar
Good tests. It would be nice to have an individual inverter that is powered by batteries which were recharged with solar to join in right when an appliance starts using the amount of power that inverter provides.
Thank you very much for testing this. I've been considering a small solar setup to offset some of my current power costs and was curious to see one in action. A lot of my load is borderline resistive, or continual load such as laptops and A/C (I live far north so I just use a small ~ 1/2 ton A/C unit) and so solar with grid tie would be ideal to offset that cost. I needed to see exactly how this unit functioned under load and such and you showed every stat I needed to know. Thanks!
First time viewer... you're using hover board batteries...absolutely brilliant
I used one of these as a test unit before moving to a fancier version that monitors the AC usage in your house and then turns itself down when the power isn't needed. To avoid back feeding into your meter. I'm using it to offset the usage of my pool pump. Similar to what you want to do with your AC. It's still a made in China thing but it has more advanced features and an lcd screen. I believe it also has protection so that it will turn itself off before draining your battery completely. I am running mine from panels so I haven't used that feature.
I know this is an old comment but can you share which one you have, a search of eBay/aliexpress and the like haven't turned up anything yet.
Word to the wise but please open that up and make sure all mosfets are firmly tightened down AND actually has the thermal pad/paste between each one. Common thing is they are loose, barely tight, and/or do not have the thermal pad/paste and POOF/POP dead.
The Best Stooge my man knowing what's up yee
Just happened to me and couldn’t figure out what caused it. Thank you
@@maxpert9 You are welcome as I know the feeling.
@@thebeststooge what are MOSFETs?
@@vermontsmostobesetubaplaye1988 In this case those three legged black things that are attached to the sides of the aluminum chassis.
So, in the process of conversion, at your input voltage, it's losing about 20-25% of the input. Or it's output is about 75% of the input. I am curious if it is more efficient when feeding it a higher input voltage. The ones I see listed can accept up to 50vdc. At 36vdc, it has to boost it higher.
In any event, if the losses are about 300watts between input and output, that is a fancy 300watt heater. Use three of them and you have to expell nearly 1000 watts of heat. That is great for winter, to add direct heat into your house, but horrible in winter, where that heat has to be expelled outside. (Thus, it will be replaced with hot outside air, being drawn in to the place you mount the inverters.) It seems to be using the heat generated as the "output restriction". If you ran these in the winter, they might stay a constant 1000w output and possibly have lower losses or draw from the input side.
Being 75% efficient is nothing to brag about. You have to buy 25% more solar cells and inverters, to get the desired output. If you add the 75% efficiency of charging... Then you actually need 50% to 65% more solar cells and batteries and battery chargers too.
It's worth paying 4x more for a 98% efficient inverter that operates at a higher input voltage and would handle all 3000watts without losing nearly 1000watts in the process. Getting an output of 3000watts, but consuming 1000watts, for a total of 4000watts of input, with 1000watts having to be disposed of, as heat, is quite bad.
I had two similar units running my solar. They lasted about 6 months to a year. The mosfet's burned up first. I was able to fix the issue once or twice. After that I couldn't diagnose the problem and gave up on the unit. I was considering a much nicer unit but never pulled the trigger.
you just needed to replace the mosfets by mosfets with a higher current tolerance and run them bellow 1 kw, no good idea to run them at their peak.
That 59amps I would probably use 4awg, or better yet 2 #10 in parallel as it is easier to get. The bigger the wire the less your losses in heat and voltage drop. The extra cost of the wire quickly makes up for the cost over time.
Your my inspiration. I want to get to the point where I don’t exactly know how many lithium batteries I plugged in to my inverter 😁
I have a 600w version of this and I noticed that it was interfering with all my internet powerline adapters. It was making the internet connection unstable. I ended up replacing the powerline adapters with ethernet connections. So far so good. No devices blowing up. I even have a 3 phase 5kw inverter in sync with this with no issues so far.
Powerline internet can't go across a transformer that will change voltage. Also they depend on a sine wave filter, if your inverter is under load and is not a pure sine wave than your data will be corrupted. You might find that a couple of large capacitors will buffer and allow you to use that equipment again.
@@johnschneider931 Funny enough, it has blown the capacitors inside my Tenda powerline which is very close to the 600w china made inverter....so I guess these are not pure sine inverters after all so be careful people.
What size panels are you running to either of your two units? Do you find that you’re running more voltage/panels in excess of what the wattage says in order to try to even come close to that Wattage? Example, 3 panels 300 watts each which is 900 watts feeding the 600 watt Inverter to get it to produce the 600 watts or close to it?
Unless you have net metering, beware that a normal "smart" electric power meter may actually charge you for power sent back to the grid. If your air conditioner pulls 240 volts, you may want to put a grid tie on two different circuits that are on different main power legs at your breaker, else you may be sending excess power on one leg back to the grid (and being charged for it) even when your air conditioner is running.
It just kicks out an error; You might get a nasty note from your utility... which could be worse.
There are versions of this inverter that have a little clamp that you hook onto your Mains and it monitors how much power you need and will turn itself down to avoid putting Excess power into your house and meter.
Yes, the clamp meter you describe is called a limiter and is a good idea. But I think the inverter must be relatively close to the breaker box as the cable between the inverter and the limiter may only be so long.
When theses things plug into the wall outlet, isn’t it a problem for these inverters to pump electricity back through those home lines?
I’m mostly concerned if the outlet won’t be able to take the current.
It’s a 1500w rated outlet, why would it have trouble taking 1000w
@@jehugarcia would you recommend these inverters for a small 2kw setup?
I love those AC meters! I have 1 on my transfer wiring to my breaker panel. They work great and are easy to read!
Hi jehu from PR your meter can run backwards. If your answer is not net metering it can lower the bill anyway
I don’t get it
Videos like these are why I am a patreon! Excellent!
I hope you do a step-by-step guide to the finished product. Is it worth it to use separate inverters compared with 1 6k inverter?
I have the 10 to 30 volt 1000w version running with 10 100w solar pannels no batteries and it cut my light bill in halve. Has been running for 10 month with no problems. If I have to replace once a year for $100 it is still worth it to me. I also have a $80 600w inverter on 36v hover board batteries that I run at night. I charge them with 2 230w 24v solar panels. Running for 6 months no problem. It dropped my light bill even further. These things work great! They are stackable so at times I run both of them at the same time.
Ruben Salazar ummm hard to believe the power company did not come knocking at your door
I thought the same thing.They haven't yet. I also thought the meter would charge for energy going out but no. If they ever show up all I have to do is unplug inverter from the socket. Believe it or not!
Ruben Salazar lol what state are you on I'm in california and there is rarely any clouds so I was thinking of just connecting an inverter disconnecting my room from the grid key room is like a shead because its separated from the house garage size and having an inverter act as the grid and my grid tie powering the ac with solar
I'm in Texas. Sounds cool. Before my 600w grid tie inverter I was running my kitchen and living room with a 900w non grid tie inverter. I isolated from grid by flipping circuit breaker.
I just wanna ask sit. That micro inverter have limitter. 🤔
Could you tell me how them grid tie inverters ended up holding up. I,m thinking about getting a few of them but don,t want to waste my time if there not very good. TKS
Hi, good morning, I have a question, does this 1000 Watt inverter support 4 solar panels of 275 W?
I have a cheap Giandel 1200 inverter in my van and it's performed very well. IMO, The hardest thing to run from an inverter is a cook top. I have an 800 Watt electric grill that tripped the fault until i moved the inverter inside the engine bay and connected it with massive 1awg 12 inch copper lines. However, i now have a new issue.. Is the inverters fault affected by heat? my battery was reading 13v, but the inverter kept tripping even with mild power draw. In the morning it when the engine was cold it worked great, but now the engine and the inverter was VERY hot from running the engine and the sun. Does this make sense?
I'd definitely move that inverter somewhere cooler. This is a gigantic simplification, but you could think of the inverter as a tiny person doing work. Imagine he's capable of doing 100 units of work (100% of his maximum output). He'll have no issue doing that if the weather is cooler. But if the weather gets so hot that he's already close to his maximum tolerable temperature before he even starts working, his peak amount of work is going to be greatly reduced. Put simply, there's an inverse relationship between how hot the temperature and how much power something can put out before it blows up/burns up. Even alternators drop in output as they heat up. Plus, heat is super hard on things like electrolytic capacitors of which power supplies/inverters tend to have many. Personally, I'd move the inverter as close to the battery as I can get it, but also making sure it's located in a place that's as cool as possible. If you tend to have a high load for long periods, it might be worth it to toss a 12V computer/electronics type fan pointing at the heatsink itself as well. Another thing that may help is to use one of the large "stiffening" capacitors used in high end mobile audio. They'll have a pile of input buffering caps already, but adding a large 1/2 to 1 farad unit as close as you can get to the inverter (like, right beside it, 6" wires between it and the inverter) may help to prevent supply sagging for large initial peaks and prevent it tripping. Myself, I'd start with moving it somewhere cooler. If it still has temp issues, add a secondary blower/fan. Last, if it still works, but it's marginal (as in, seems fine with a 100% SOC of the battery, but trips/freaks out once it drops a bit), then maybe try the stiffening cap. A mobile installer place may even be willing to help you try one out first just to see if it's effective in the setup you have. Best of luck! :)
Good stuff Jehu. I'm looking to take advantage of the Nissan leaf sitting in my driveway if the grid power in our area should be disrupted. I've heard that you can run a 12v inverter on the car battery and if you the car in park with the power on, the traction battery (24kw) will keep the 12v car battery charged. If that works, how big of an inverter can I safely run on it and/or how big of an inverter would I need to run a refrigerator (according to the sticker inside it's rated at 8.5amps (don't know the watts)), and a second refrigerator rated at 4.5amps, and maybe a lamp or 2 for basic lighting, and if there's anything left over, maybe a smart tv (I think it's a 55").
Is this like a computer where if it was better cooled it would run at 1000 watts longer??
For all people you need to check the how frequency looks like(sine, square wave, modified sine wave...) and the HZ, If you want it to be the same as the house it should be Pure Sine Wave 60hz in US and 50hz in EU and that before you buy an inverter.
Im a new subscriber and i wonder does that power wall power your entire house? Because if so i wonder how that tiny extension cord carries all that power
Do you think 1kw can power an entire home?
jehugarcia no its far away i was just wondering if you had like a few inverters to power your house during a power out im sorry for not explaining well
I have been using 9 of the smaller GTI on a solar installation for years, they work great.I would say that I always apply the AC supply before the DC when powering up, and disconnect the DC before the AC when powering down. (I did blow a few MOSFET's early on)Also for running 1000 watts continuous it would be safer with 2 working in parallel.
so if were to use one tof these with out going thru all the "CODE/PERMIT" crap what would the electric company say? . . would they even be aware that i was back feeding? Since there is no bi directional meter on the electric ones?
@@mikeriverajr4447 I think it depends on the company in general, some do it automatically and won't care others require you set up special billing with them to track how much you feed back.
In typical grid tie on day the ac will go out… and the device will have to endure a DC then AC startup.. I’ve never had a problem with my GTI during that type of condition.
@@benparkin3191 I think this may have been a problem with the older cheap GTI,s.
I did have a few problems early on, and rightly or wrongly assumed it was the way the device was powering up.
Over the last few years I came to the same conclusions as you, power the DC first then AC.
I still have a few of the smaller GTI's (350W) in a cupboard that need fixing :-(
2 working in parallel woud pump 2000W in to the grid
I bought the exact same inverter the 12 volt input inverter but it blows a 100 amp DC circuit breaker within two minutes of connection to my single 12 volt AGM 76 AH battery ? I thought 100 amp breaker would do the job ?
I love your 18650 multicell replacement solution. Exchangeable bricks.
Are these things saftey complaint and shut off in a powercut so you dont go electricuting some electric worker trying too fix the power. And can you still use it too power your house in a power cut as long as you turn your mains switch in your consumer unit?
Think it tapered off with the drop in supply battery voltage? Secondly, you’re a cowboy without an interconnect agreement with PG&E? Most likely they have a digital meter on your house, are you worried about the meter sensing any watts going back up the line? I’d like to do similar, but not get any hassle from the power company.
I ain’t planning on sending any back, that would be wasteful
Me too! The only way to get a interconnect agreement here, is if you buy a complete house system and its installed by Company! wich is about $20,000. I dont care if i give back a couple of Watts but if the Power company is going to charge me then NO. I bought a 1000 watt inverter with limiter but havent connected it yet.
I have a string inverter in my garage that was professionally installed and it puts up to 4000 watts back into the grid. Since I did it right, my meter can go backwards and I don't have to run grid-tie inverters only when the air is on. My question is, what happens if I also plug a small grid-tie inverter like you have into my house somewhere? I have extra solar panels that I'd love to use the energy of. The DC voltage would be too low to add those panels as an extra string on my main inverter. If I buy a little grid-tie inverter like you have, I'm worried the two inverters will compete for the highest voltage. Also, if I have a power outage, won't each inverter trick the other inverter into thinking grid power is still on and they'd maintain power output? I definitely don't want to cause harm to a lineman. You're talking about using multiple small 1000 W inverters at once though so you might know how that works. Thanks in advance!
It won't "compete". It will just put out voltage high enough to put out as much power as it can.
Hi there ...so the part @ 7:27time line is running of a 12.7 volt battery inverter 10DC minimum and you have 1000w....no problem? I ask you this because of the inverter diagram 10DC version wants a minimum 18volt and not to run of the load side of charge controler. ?? What's your take on this.! Love the electric VW ROCK ON!! ( IRELAND )
Can you do a video of making a transfer switch for your powerwalls, so we dont have to worry about this feeding the grid when power is out?
Grid tie inverters won't feed the grid when power is out.
They actually need the grid supply present to Operate..... i.e. it senses the presence of grid supply, then it turns on....
That means, when grid has supply, it feeds the grid. And when grid has no power, it just shuts off.
@@SAHILKHAN-lu8oq without the grid during power outage im using pure sine wave inverter from battery as grid my battery 20ah last the whole day using my grid tie..(load depends on inverter capacity)
I’ve got one of those grid time inverters and have four 300 Watt panels hooked to it and even then the middle of the day with the East Texas direct sun I cannot get that inverter to produce over roughly 540 -560 watts.
Have you by chance tested the voltage of the two leads that you have connected to the inverter prior to connecting them? The reason I ask is because before I connect mine the voltage coming through the cables shows roughly 39 1/2 Volt, but as soon as I connect it to the inverter and the inverter starts running or is turned off and I put my voltage meter on both of the leads it’s reading in the mid 27 Volt range. I have no clue what’s going on or why that would be, any thoughts? Nobody has
My utility doesn't allow putting these small inverters on the grid. They only have a certain number of larger approved one or solar approved and they can detect if you are feeding back in with their smart meter and then see if you have gotten approval and if not, you will get a letter in the mail...
The power company is not going to waste their time tracking all these people down, and threatening them with cut off. They hope you will just not try...
And if they do cut you off, find an attorney and get a class action law suit together.
@@JohnBoen Oh they do, I've already read a few times where they have in my city. They don't want their linemen killed by cheap inverters that fail to turn off when power is out.
It might have a fan, but your inlet holes are blocked by the carpet it's sitting on. Where did you get the digital meters? Thanks
So bottom line is, these units are going to always be at full power unless your whole house is using less than 1,000 watts? But you can use several in parallel?
JG Id love to see your design for completing this idea. I want to accomplish the same "covering the load of the a/c". Subscribed.
Can you remote trigger the inverter to turn on only when the AC is running?
Hi, I use this tie inverter in my solar intallation, work pretty good. I'm look for a way that connect this tie inverte direct to my battery without get out too much amperes as this tie inverter is MPPT type. You can say the way to connect this tie inverter direct to my 12v battery and only getout 5 amperes?
I know that in this case not generate the total watts. thanks
The comment literally right before yours says you can't.
1000W Solar Panels on Grid Tie Inverter GTIL2 & Limiter for Home PV Battery Connected there a 3 models 25v-60v/45v-90v and 2000watt version more expensive but better built i have both 25v-60v and 45v-90v looking at building own power walls for these systems.
good video. A question, I want to install a laser printer of approximately 550w 115v. What inverter could I use, modified wave? how many watts ?. I would use the printer very lightly during the day. Thank you
Little late to answer, but I believe you need a pure sine inverter for a laser printer. There are a couple items like laser printer and lcd clock that need pure sine to function correctly.
It will burn up running at max in a short time. I use a boost converter and set the max amps to keep the inverter from hitting a max 1000w. On my 48v system I use a buck converter to do the same thing
What device are you using? Thank you
input are from battery.. is possible to control how much watt sent to that inverter.. i want to trick my Grid Tie Inverter which have no limiter :)
Do you need a net metering electric panel for this? What happens to the inverter when the AC is off? Does it go back to the power company?
im going to turn them off
I wonder if it would work from 12V (13,6V) battery?
Funny how you were checking the temperature of everything but the connector which is the part that will most likely heat up and potentially melt... :)
The polling rate of the volt meter with the music had me.
Have you tried to put more than one in parallel to add more power for your need?
Can you plug this inverter into any outlet in your house?
Yes as long as it’s 120vac and not a 240vac one
Hi - I'm running two 120cell 32Vmp 7.92Imp 256W panels in parallel with African sun power into the 20-45V to 230Vac model but the best grid power I've monitored so far is 350W (ac). Very disappointed but hoping somebody can help. Input Voltage and current are well within spec but the units just don't generate anywhere near the power they should. The panels do deliver 500W with an ePever 3210AN MPPT controller. I can only think the Grid tie MPPT software is terrible.
How would you use the grid tie inverter with the solar array and have it switch between charging the batteries and giving to the grid?
Jake Stephens I have wondered something similar. I want a system where I can plug into "shore power" and it charge my batteries, and once the batteries are full it sends the extra power to the grid, but I don't know what units can do a shore power thing and grid tie while being off grid. So, it's similar, but.... Different. There is an inverter generator by renogy that plugs into the grid to charge the batteries, but I don't know if it sends the extra power to the grid once the batteries are full or not.
www.renogy.com/renogy-2000w-pure-sine-wave-inverter-charger/
Hi sir. Is it really safe to connect the grid tied inverter directly to an outlet from utility? Thanx.
Hey if you took one of these inverters and hooked it to one side of a 22o volt ac braker then took another one of these inverters and hooked up to the other side of the 220 ac braker would it run a 220 ac unit.Thank you. God bless.
When you're feeling for temp on the battery pulling almost 60 amps towards the end, you missed a vital spot. The connection usually melts first. Touch that first to test for temperature.
the inverter will not pull 60 amps unless its shorted
Wrong. The part with the least mass, the highest electrical resistance and the least cooling is the part that melt first. Which is not the connector because it neither have the least cooling or the highest electrical resistance.
@jehugarcia you might wanna look into getting an inverter AC, they're much more efficient and don't have that huge power spike and ramping down duty cycle.
I don’t understand
Would be nice if the output power of the inverter could be controlled via some interface
Holy inverters Jehu-man.... I was just looking at these inverters yesterday, and today this!
Them cookies is always watching you
so it has been over 6 months , how did this test turn out ? you still using them ?
What would happen if you connected a grid tied inverter (1000watts) to a stand alone sine wave inverter(1000)??? Have you effectively made a 2000 watt grid totally off grid? Would grid tied and inverts work together?
Yes you would make a micro grid
Just got one of these , is it normal for them to make a noticeable / audible Buzzing sound while it is running before the fans get going?? I fired mine upto today heard lots of buzzing and sorta stepping and decided to turn it off
You're in California, right? I would not be a bit surprised if the state outlawed the use of these inverters because they don't meet UL1741. Or if Amazon wasn't allowed to sell in CA just like some 2 cycle engines cannot be sold in CA through a lot of online retailers.
Watching this video 3rd time now idk I just like it because I'm thinking of buying this inverter this week
nightmare in action don't
hrm not a bad inverter, question dont you need the grid tie limited? otherwise the power meter will actually run faster depending on how smart the meter is, you also will not get paid for power going to the grid so why bother running it, i know you will have a control to swich on the inverters (im very intrigued how you are going to hook that up) but for that time that the inverters are still on once the ac has just turned off you might get charged with the power even though it is going back to the grid. just a concern as to what is actually happening.
So, I can get 18650 6,000mah batteries and I am wondering how many killowatts I should with 100 of them.
2.22 kWh. . . someone check my arithmetic. While 6,000 miliamp hour 18650 cells might exist, many labeled that high are Chinese fakes.
Mark Phillips thank you. Is there any chance you can recommend a legitimate place to get 100 18650 batteries at a time?
Anywhere. Just find a trustworthy online seller, stick with name brands and you'll be fine: Panasonic, LG, Samsung, Sanyo, LG, Sony, etc.
j35.us/Power2Spare
j35.us/15A-1300mahSamsung
j35.us/2200mahCells
j35.us/LGDAS31850-5
j35.us/Modem-grey-2600mah
j35.us/Modem-purple-2600mah
j35.us/ICR18650-26F-6
j35.us/Samsung44ahModules
j35.us/6xRAYOBI-packs
j35.us/5s2pX2-packs
j35.us/20A-PowerTool-cells
j35.us/7x2165-2600mah
Short runs of cable can handle quite a bit more than its rated amperage. I run 140 amps through 4 gauge cable all the time for heating elements as long as they don't get over five feet long or so.
Just wondered if you continued with these? Did it work out for you?
What about a true sine wave inverter plus some of this, would that work? Would then only kick when needed?
Hang on guys (love your work Jehu) I don’t understand why we’re putting 1000W back into grid if what we actually want is to run an AC unit. Please help me understand this if its related. I mean if we’re going to simulate an AC load for AC unit then the inverter may perform differently? Thanks guys!
stay tuned for future videos
The inverters that you use can not be used together with others on the same wiring. Just a thought. The solar industry has mini inverters that are attached to each solar panel. Can those be used with batteries and have the batteries charged by solar giving you the ability to aliminate your incoming pud power?
Im working quite often with solar power in my line of work but i have never seen said ´mini´ inverters.
It dosn´t sound like a eficient / good sulution.
A normal solar sytstem has many solar cells conected in series and then gets hooked up to one large inverter that pushes the energy into the grid.
Nino Joel they attach directly to the back of the solar panels one each. Then instead of batteries they feed there power back to the grid , they must be able to ty together for a tottal ac.
Bad Bob Bigger solar system never use batteries and rather just push the available energy in the grid.
Id love to se a picture of these smal inverters that you mean since I relay cant find any reason someone builds these.
You are talking about those micro inverter they aren't supposed to be connected at the back of the solar panel they arent weather proof
I think sunnyboy is the name of one of the micro inverters
Hi there, are you running the inverter just off a battery on this video? I want a battery only grid-tie inverter but everything from China seems to be solar panel related and when I speak to the people on alibaba they seem to suggest that a solar panel must be connected and the battery is for ‘backup’. I want to use the battery to charge on my economy 7 rate (low price) and then use it when the electricity rate is more expensive. Tempted to stack 5 of these inside a well ventilated custom housing with additional fans to give myself a 5kw grid tie inverter running off a bmw i3 battery (60Ah) in parallel at 44v. Thoughts?
Thanks for the review. I've just bought the same inverter and now I know how it will work. May I know what hardware(software) do you use to monitor and analize power usage of you AC grid?
th-cam.com/video/5_pFGBA7qIU/w-d-xo.html
is there away to use it off grid?
Are there electric companies in the USA that don't require specific UL listings?
Bro help I have solar already I want to add 2 300w solar panel using plug and play inverter that can be plug in regular 110v outlet, I watched a lot of your video I know you are very knowledgeable, if I do my play if turned off AC disconnect, will the plug and play inverter will shut off too? Help please
Hi! How do you get the number of kwh from 18560 battey? Do you count the 18650 from 3.7 volt?
Ex 3.7v × 2.5ah(2.500 mah) = 9.25 wh?
Great video as always, I am concerned about your extension cord (your power grid). If you had one that had a higher capacity it may protect your home and family better (in my humble opinion, safety first).
Great video I'm curious I have a grid-tied inverter but its range is 36 volts however all of my panels are 41 volts is there a way to lower the voltage on the panels so they can meet the range of the grid-tied inverter and I can start using it thank you
CroatianNinja does grid tie inverters run 20v to 60v , and they have different ones to better match your needs
Very nice vid. very informative... I'd like to know one thing tho. How do you protect batteries to over discharge with this kind of inverter? I have a small bank with 60ah on 24v and 2 275w Solar panels charging it.
super video what a bout those capacitors battery it lay be a good choise as they can give a lot in a short time just for the ac start
I would have placed a 25A current limiter on the input side of the GTI. They are not designed to run from battery inputs (unlimited input current), they are meant to run from Solar only with has a max input current.
can you plug multiple of those grid tie inverters to the same AC to split the load?
yes
Amazing video thanks for sharing. I have one of this 500 w inverter, how many Solar panels of 100 watts 36 cells can I connect to this inverter? I mean looking for the best efficiency.
Thanks in advance
Depends on the panel and the environment. Different panels are rated different and your environment will play a large part in how much power you get/waste
Just in time I was thinking of buying one I just bough the mpt-7210a to charge my ebike but I got a total of 960w solar system and that cant take advantage of all that power but I also want to do it because the ac pulls about 700w but then I'm scared my ac will turn off and then my meter count backwards then the power company will come
Can somebody point out the name or part number of the meter at 2:15. Thanks.
i have the 1000w version and it puts only out 328 watts.
it is connected to 2x 375 Watts Panels, at least 500 watts must come out.
Same issue I’m having. Curious when I see people test these online and it’s like they’re working perfect, but whenever I’m running over 1400 Watts to one of these thousand converters I can’t get the damn thing to go over 560 Watts??? IDK
@@Wrensspeedshop Many of these devices are scams.
Someone took a 600w converter and turned it into a 1000w converter by simply re-sticking the sticker. The golden one I had came to 816w and the syllable only to 328. If the watt numbers fluctuate a bit and it doesn't get any more then not enough comes out of the panels or the converter is damn inefficient.
If the wattage stays at a very specific number and always stays the same, then the limit of the converter has been reached.
By the way, both of mine broke after 3 weeks.
Good Load Knowledge here.... Where can I buy silicon sheathed copper stranded wire that is silver coated in 10awg?
eBay, radioshack, AliExpress, the numerous online parts stores. Just use Google or open a phone book.
can we use normal lead acid battery's inverter for this purpose ?.....i wish to replace stand-by lead acid bank to li-ion ones. So, do they sufficient for that purpose
The inverter dos not care where the input voltage comes from.
The only thing that matters is that the baterys can handle the amps.
Also check that the inverter is made to output into the grid (If you plan on doing so ) since most of them cant.
Nino Joel
Thanks for that
You mean I should check the amps it could handle. Isn't it ?
Ok I will look after that.
But inverter is for DC to AC so, why we should look at amps into batteries
They were source in this case not load.
Please clear this to me.
sai krishna I mean that the battery needs to output manny amps without getting damaged / overheating.
So be sure to check what amperage the inverter pulls from the batterys.
As for the inverter part you need a inverter that produces a pure sine wave and has some frequency sync functions if you want to push the energy into the grid.
You won't need to check that if just you use it to power things of grid.
Since your home is using electricity before the AC turns on and the inverter is just below 1000 watts, that means you need more than 5000 watts of inverter power before they are off peak wattage.
Great video,
Kindly to provide wiring diagram of watt meter, Thank you
You had me at the tesla vw bus
whats the easiest way to record that kwh output to a computer? is there a cheap monitor that works standaloone without any stupid app
Thats whole new meaning of "power wall", wall full of batteries :D
@Mykel Hardin Tesla power wall, a unit that mounts on the wall that contains batteries, not a full wall of batteries, his comment makes sense, yours doesn't.
Nice demo! Did I hear you say that you tested with 12v battery too? The sight says to use 24v for testing. any thoughts on that?
Is there some optimal chinese converter working from car's 12-14volts?
Could you recommend something?
I want to supply air compressor 2.2kw to pump tractor's tyres, and some other instruments