I've cut skidder tires for hay feeders. Tried chainsaw, sawsall, skilsaw etc. Sawsall worked best. Picked away at it for a month or so, found that if I waited for a real cold morning (-10°f), it cut much easier frozen.
Thinking a chainsaw may be a lot more efficient, we cut about a quarter leave 2 to 4 inches after have gone around cut the remaining spaces, much easier than your drilling, hoisting and sawsall.
I use chainsaws to clean off tires for easy rim handling when subsequently breaking the beads. With the beads broken a tire iron holds them away from the rim then I snip the belts with abrasive discs (6" or larger) on an angle grinder.
Blades don't need lube when cutting rubber, they need COOLING which water (or even better, soapy water because soap exists to increase "wetting") is ample for.
@@Seriouslydave Rubber and plastic workpieces don't dissipate heat like metals. Cutting tools become MUCH hotter than otherwise if not cooled. Water is sufficient coolant and leaves no residue so flooding the work is no problem. The cutting tool surface at point of contact can easily get hot enough to damage a recip saw blade because the recip cutting surface in contact with the work is quite small. This small cutting surface won't just overheat on rubber. When I harvest engines I cut the frame rails (bound for the crusher anyway so no harm done) and even those may not dissipate enough heat so I squirt water in the blade periodically. Abrasive discs are unbothered because their edge speed provides sufficient cooling for the blade but their speed + friction often melts the rubber they're cutting. Water solves that smelly problem reasonably well.
We have looked at adding a drain by drilling another hole in the sidewall near the first one, putting a removable cap on it, and running some PVC pipe underground on the downhill side. This would let us drain it if we needed to work on it. Thanks for your interest!
4 hours in the shop (tire preparation). 4 hours in the field (installation) - IF all supplies are already on site (cement, shale or rock, pvc pipe and valve). After installation, cement should be allowed to dry for 2 weeks before tank is filled with water.
Thanks. It is a project for next spring, but having that the length of time for the project in my head helps me plan better. Very cool video, thanks for sharing!
I've cut skidder tires for hay feeders. Tried chainsaw, sawsall, skilsaw etc. Sawsall worked best. Picked away at it for a month or so, found that if I waited for a real cold morning (-10°f), it cut much easier frozen.
I figured chainsaw would work best
@@huckstirred7112 tried it, just didn't work well. Probably the high speed creating heat.
@@pfd37 i have seen people re groove mud tires with chainsaw but that was an electric saw and just scraping the surface
Thank you, thank you very much.
If using that speed bore bit in carbide would you be able to drill through the tread and have the pipe come out the side?
Thinking a chainsaw may be a lot more efficient, we cut about a quarter leave 2 to 4 inches after have gone around cut the remaining spaces, much easier than your drilling, hoisting and sawsall.
I use chainsaws to clean off tires for easy rim handling when subsequently breaking the beads. With the beads broken a tire iron holds them away from the rim then I snip the belts with abrasive discs (6" or larger) on an angle grinder.
Would it help to put some dishwashing soap on the tire to help lubricate the blade?
Blades don't need lube when cutting rubber, they need COOLING which water (or even better, soapy water because soap exists to increase "wetting") is ample for.
@@Comm0ut why do they need cooling? Could it be the friction?
@@Seriouslydave Rubber and plastic workpieces don't dissipate heat like metals. Cutting tools become MUCH hotter than otherwise if not cooled. Water is sufficient coolant and leaves no residue so flooding the work is no problem. The cutting tool surface at point of contact can easily get hot enough to damage a recip saw blade because the recip cutting surface in contact with the work is quite small. This small cutting surface won't just overheat on rubber. When I harvest engines I cut the frame rails (bound for the crusher anyway so no harm done) and even those may not dissipate enough heat so I squirt water in the blade periodically. Abrasive discs are unbothered because their edge speed provides sufficient cooling for the blade but their speed + friction often melts the rubber they're cutting. Water solves that smelly problem reasonably well.
I've looked at a few of these and the look really good. Any ideas for a drain so that they can be cleaned?
We have looked at adding a drain by drilling another hole in the sidewall near the first one, putting a removable cap on it, and running some PVC pipe underground on the downhill side. This would let us drain it if we needed to work on it.
Thanks for your interest!
What size is the tire you are working with in the video?
Thanks for all of the info 😄
About how long did this take you to do?
4 hours in the shop (tire preparation).
4 hours in the field (installation) - IF all supplies are already on site (cement, shale or rock, pvc pipe and valve).
After installation, cement should be allowed to dry for 2 weeks before tank is filled with water.
Thanks. It is a project for next spring, but having that the length of time for the project in my head helps me plan better. Very cool video, thanks for sharing!
SUBHANALLAH 👍