Most boats made around the 60's-70's are going the same refits. Just look at Sailing Uma's channel, among many others. A lot of boats with the same problems 50 years on.
No reason not to buy an IP. Just look at Mack Yacht Services, about 18k to do the job right. This video, cutting that longitudinal stringer to access the plate...just compromised his deck's integrity, and created a new problem to deal with down the line. You need to know what you're doing before dicing up structural elements.
Oh ya, I am totally redesigning a lot of aspects of the boat, it’ll be a lot of fiberglass work but I love this hull and it’s story so I won’t be giving up on her :)
Yes please! I will let you know when I start glassing, it will probably happen after I get the outside blasted so I can dig out those chainplates, then I’ll probably be glassing for a few weeks working on both the interior and exterior.
Good progress. Bummer about the chainplates. The ones on my west coast Triton were encapsulated. No rust, thank goodness, but they all came out. Moved them outside the hull. Were your wire clips all held on by flat head screws? Mine were. Can you imagine the patience and steady hand needed to put all of those in with an old school screwdriver?
Ya some of the clips were! Interesting, maybe there was some flexible bedding compound around the top of the plates or the glass adhered better to yours, mine are definitely delaminating away from the metal creating a rust-generating void full of water.
just discovered a problem like this on my boat, the bronze fitting the forestay attaches to has lifted up slightly with a 5mm crack around it where it should be sitting on the fiberglass. Discovered it right at the end of the day havn't looked inside yet. Do you have another episode on the chain plates? you seem to be deep into it! Glad to see you are sailing electric! I mostly sail engineless, but sometimes a small electric trolling motor ;)
I am just getting around to digging out the chainplates! I have to rent a tent in the yard to do major digging and repair, but yet, an episode on the chainplate rebuild will be coming at some point before winter hopefully.
Chainplates are gone. Why not just cut off the chainplate at deck level maybe a half inch deep and epoxy gelcoat over. Since he's planning to install outside the hull anyway. Might still have to cut some liner but ....less work less hull integrity compromised. The liner also works as a stiffining member of the hull. I'd hate to cut out too much.
Ya I’m actually interested to see how the chainplates look, I know they collect water because they are dripping down and are surrounded by a bubble of rust, I don’t want that delamination to spread so I’m cutting them out and grinding the hull fair before installing new external ones. I will be building those spots up a lot more than the surrounding hull and I won’t be compromising then deck seam so it should be ok. I’m all done cutting liner and now I’m tabbing a lot in to build the structure back up. Should also be stronger than before and help out the hull.
@@projectseawolf is the frp weeping? Is there a sour odor from the frp layers surrounding the chain plates? If yes, you have a form of blister and will need to grind out and completely dry the glass before stiffining it up with. Is the exterior hull blister free. My guess is not. If you have to grind down gelcoat, a peeler is my choice.
I understand that demolition is a necessity in this case but you can atleast due it with some thought behind it. In the head if you would have unscrewed the wood piece you could have cut that piece you didn't want to cut out but had to along that line and then fiberglassed it back in. Hopefully you're a good craftsman cause you're going to need to be to put it back together and not look like a knucklehead tore into it
Yup! I’m going to be fiberglassing a lot of the pieces to the hull, and add drainage so that I can access the deck hardware, don’t compromise the regality of the liner, and still drain to the bilge should a leak in the deck open. There are a lot of panels keeping me for working on the through deck hardware and chainplates, I’ve held on to a lot of the wood trim and plan on screwing it back in if it does not impede work on the fittings.
Oh the wood piece on the upper shelf? That was just an attachment point for the wood trim, it did not hold the fiberglass on, the liner is all one big piece.
They were put in in 1969, the tops are still shiny but I have no idea what stainless alloy they are. Generally, stainless will eventually rust if left in a container of water for years, and that’s pretty much what happened here.
The Great Northwest, stainless comes in many flavors, but all stainless requires oxygen to remain corrosion resistant. That oxygen can come from the air or circulating water, but when it gets encapsulated the stainless can no longer "breath" as it were. Any stagnant water that collects around the chain plates will quickly become devoid of oxygen, and the the stainless will start corroding, often times from the inside out. It’s called "crevice corrosion".
And I almost purchased an older Island Packet.
Most boats made around the 60's-70's are going the same refits. Just look at Sailing Uma's channel, among many others. A lot of boats with the same problems 50 years on.
No reason not to buy an IP. Just look at Mack Yacht Services, about 18k to do the job right. This video, cutting that longitudinal stringer to access the plate...just compromised his deck's integrity, and created a new problem to deal with down the line. You need to know what you're doing before dicing up structural elements.
That boat builders put chain plates in the boat’s interior is dumb. But to place them in inaccessible locations is downright stupid.
Yup! I don’t think they designed boats to be worked on back then, at least not the pleasure yachts. So I’m fixing all that.
Great video I think you may end up resigning your interior good job done
Sorry redesigning
Oh ya, I am totally redesigning a lot of aspects of the boat, it’ll be a lot of fiberglass work but I love this hull and it’s story so I won’t be giving up on her :)
Yes please! I will let you know when I start glassing, it will probably happen after I get the outside blasted so I can dig out those chainplates, then I’ll probably be glassing for a few weeks working on both the interior and exterior.
Good progress. Bummer about the chainplates. The ones on my west coast Triton were encapsulated. No rust, thank goodness, but they all came out. Moved them outside the hull. Were your wire clips all held on by flat head screws? Mine were. Can you imagine the patience and steady hand needed to put all of those in with an old school screwdriver?
Ya some of the clips were! Interesting, maybe there was some flexible bedding compound around the top of the plates or the glass adhered better to yours, mine are definitely delaminating away from the metal creating a rust-generating void full of water.
just discovered a problem like this on my boat, the bronze fitting the forestay attaches to has lifted up slightly with a 5mm crack around it where it should be sitting on the fiberglass. Discovered it right at the end of the day havn't looked inside yet. Do you have another episode on the chain plates? you seem to be deep into it! Glad to see you are sailing electric! I mostly sail engineless, but sometimes a small electric trolling motor ;)
I am just getting around to digging out the chainplates! I have to rent a tent in the yard to do major digging and repair, but yet, an episode on the chainplate rebuild will be coming at some point before winter hopefully.
@@projectseawolf okay great! good luck! subscribed!
Chainplates are gone. Why not just cut off the chainplate at deck level maybe a half inch deep and epoxy gelcoat over. Since he's planning to install outside the hull anyway. Might still have to cut some liner but ....less work less hull integrity compromised. The liner also works as a stiffining member of the hull. I'd hate to cut out too much.
Ya I’m actually interested to see how the chainplates look, I know they collect water because they are dripping down and are surrounded by a bubble of rust, I don’t want that delamination to spread so I’m cutting them out and grinding the hull fair before installing new external ones. I will be building those spots up a lot more than the surrounding hull and I won’t be compromising then deck seam so it should be ok.
I’m all done cutting liner and now I’m tabbing a lot in to build the structure back up. Should also be stronger than before and help out the hull.
@@projectseawolf is the frp weeping? Is there a sour odor from the frp layers surrounding the chain plates? If yes, you have a form of blister and will need to grind out and completely dry the glass before stiffining it up with. Is the exterior hull blister free. My guess is not. If you have to grind down gelcoat, a peeler is my choice.
I understand that demolition is a necessity in this case but you can atleast due it with some thought behind it. In the head if you would have unscrewed the wood piece you could have cut that piece you didn't want to cut out but had to along that line and then fiberglassed it back in. Hopefully you're a good craftsman cause you're going to need to be to put it back together and not look like a knucklehead tore into it
Yup! I’m going to be fiberglassing a lot of the pieces to the hull, and add drainage so that I can access the deck hardware, don’t compromise the regality of the liner, and still drain to the bilge should a leak in the deck open. There are a lot of panels keeping me for working on the through deck hardware and chainplates, I’ve held on to a lot of the wood trim and plan on screwing it back in if it does not impede work on the fittings.
Oh the wood piece on the upper shelf? That was just an attachment point for the wood trim, it did not hold the fiberglass on, the liner is all one big piece.
Why do they rust out like that? Not stainless?
They were put in in 1969, the tops are still shiny but I have no idea what stainless alloy they are. Generally, stainless will eventually rust if left in a container of water for years, and that’s pretty much what happened here.
The Great Northwest, stainless comes in many flavors, but all stainless requires oxygen to remain corrosion resistant. That oxygen can come from the air or circulating water, but when it gets encapsulated the stainless can no longer "breath" as it were. Any stagnant water that collects around the chain plates will quickly become devoid of oxygen, and the the stainless will start corroding, often times from the inside out. It’s called "crevice corrosion".
@@westsail718 Nicely explained. Thank you.