Adam Savage's One Day Repairs: Arriflex Camera Battery Pack
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.พ. 2022
- The next step in Adam's quest to get his vintage Arriflex 2C 35mm camera operational is to repair and restore a motor battery pack he recently picked up on eBay. The battery for this camera is interesting in that it's actually meant to be worn with a leather shoulder sling on the camera operator. Time to break out the multimeter to see if Adam can get any juice flowing through this old piece of kit!
Adam's repair of his Arri 2C camera motor: • Adam Savage's One Day ...
Shot by Adam Savage and edited by Joey Fameli
Music by Jinglepunks
Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks:
/ @tested
Tested Ts, stickers, mugs and more: tested-store.com
Subscribe for more videos (and click the bell for notifications): th-cam.com/users/subscription_c...
Twitter: / testedcom
Facebook: / testedcom
Instagram: / testedcom
Discord: / discord
Amazon Storefront: www.amazon.com/shop/adamsavage...
Savage Industries T-shirts: cottonbureau.com/stores/savag...
Tested is:
Adam Savage / donttrythis
Norman Chan / nchan
Joey Fameli www.joeyfameli.com
Ryan Kiser / ryan.kiser
Jen Schachter www.jenschachter.com
Kishore Hari / sciencequiche
Sean Charlesworth / cworthdynamics
Jeremy Williams / jerware
Kayte Sabicer / kaytesabicer
Bill Doran / chinbeard
Ariel Waldman / arielwaldman
Darrell Maloney / brokennerd
Kristen Lomasney / krystynlo
Intro bumper by Abe Dieckman
Thanks for watching!
#adamsavage #35mm #onedayrepairs - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![[Full Episode] MasterChef Junior Thailand มาสเตอร์เชฟ จูเนียร์ ประเทศไทย Season 3 Episode 4](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/e7Oqqo90x_w/mqdefault.jpg)
Please add an inline fuse. That battery is capable of providing many-many amps of current. If you shorted out the contacts, or there is a fault on the camera, you will be wearing a small inferno!! That's precisely why the origonal setup had one too. People think 12v is safe, but they forget about the current that BIG batteries can generate.
Yes!!!
Also when you are repairing something and find a blown fuse, please note there is probably a good reason why the fuse blew. So short circuiting it is a really bad idea. Don't ask me how I acquired this wisdom...
@@SierraLimaOscar Probably drew the extra amps to blow the fuse when the cells shorted in the old battery. All the corrosion on the terminals would have lowered the current draw rather than raise it.
I'll second this, I have a electrical burn scar from a 12VDC source.
He's also attaching leads with it plugged in to mains power 🤦
@@theblindspot985 Not only a fuse but also a transformer from 12 v DC to 8.4 v DC as the motor in the camera doesn't last very long with the 12 v DC hooked up to it.
I dont really want to pass judgment of what you did to restore it and get it working but i would have replaced the original battery with the same number of ni-cad cells since the motor was probably designed for that specific voltage. You can buy sub-C sized cells that ive used them to replace the cells in old battery backs on several vintage tektronix test equipment units.
in Adam's previous motor repair video for this camera, he talks about how it's designed to run on voltages between 12 and 24, so there's a big margin he can play with.
Well if you don't, why are you?
I like the respect you pay to film. So many movies were made with these cameras. Thanks, Adam.
Nickel Cadmium pack, you can replace the electrolyte in the cells with the right concentration of potassium hydroxide. Note as well that the deposits on top of the cells are incredibly corrosive, and will destroy clothing and steelwork with only a slightly humid day indoors, so wash the entire pack and the area with water, and lots of rinsing.
Those cells can be refilled using deionised water to fill up to the level mark inside, and leave to charge overnight to equalise. You can probably still buy those cells, though your supplier likely would be SAFT. Yes you can replace with a 2S lithium ion battery pack, using a 2S charge controller, using the existing battery charger, provided it puts out less than 10V.
I'm torn as to best way of doing this. He could have easily swapped the NiCd cells with a bunch of NiCd cells of similar size (it's difficult to get a sense of scale as to whether AA cells would work or if you'd need to go with larger). Then he could have kept the same charger and swapped nothing out. But since he's cool with swapping out the battery and charging circuit, modern lithium cells are definitely the way to go and wouldn't be nearly as heavy as the lead acid battery he put in there.
@@xuthnet maybe it's just the RC hobbyist in me, but is there any specific reason to go with NiCd over Nimh in this case? just curious as 8.4v is a fairly common, inexpensive pack, and from what I understood Nimh had a lot of similar power characteristics to NiCd without the memory effect.
@@Dracarrion Unless I'm mistaken, the cells that were replaced were NiCd and which would mean that the charger was for a 7S (8.4V) NiCd battery. It is unsafe to charge NiMH cells with a NiCd charger (there are chargers that will work with either but I believe that that battery pack predates such things). So if he replaced the NiCd cells with new NiCd cells he could have kept everything, including the charging circuitry, intact.
edit: also "the memory effect" was grossly overblown by people. Unless you had processes that drew the battery down to the exact same level every time you wouldn't be affected by it. But lots of people misattributed all kinds of other failures to it and somehow this became a major thing in people's consciousness.
@@xuthnet really depends whether you’re doing a restoration or restoring a workhorse to working order.
@@JasperJanssen Which is why I said I'd either use NiCd cells like the original or put in a modern Lithium battery which is far better. NiCd was used in the original because it was better than lead acid. Lighter for the amount of energy carried and wasn't filled with sulfuric acid (even if it's in a gel like it would have been at the time of manufacture or absorbed in a fiberglass sponge like is manufactured today, while they won't spill, neither are pleasant to deal with if the case for the battery breaks).
Will we.het to see any footage shot with the camera? Would love to see Adam do a series going from loading/shooting, to developing and di'ing
20:55 - I laughed SO LOUD at that smash cut, I gotta give props to the editor, that made my day! :D
Adam's repair of his Arri 2C camera motor: th-cam.com/video/TJYK69F8ULk/w-d-xo.html
PREMIUM/PATRON EXCLUSIVE: Join Adam as he assembles a tripod for this camera in (almost) real time! th-cam.com/video/0-wr47Xi6eo/w-d-xo.html
Join this channel to support Tested and get access to perks:
th-cam.com/channels/iDJtJKMICpb9B1qf7qjEOA.htmljoin
Tested Ts, stickers, mugs and more: tested-store.com
I was contacted by Aliens, can you make a sleeping camera that when they get here, we got them taped and file a report. LOL, just kidding. Have fun, enjoy Life. Regards, Alex.
Adam.. I build batteries for a living and would have been happy to send you a custom battery pack for that.. any shape you want ( within reason) and even leave it exposed (safely) so you can build with it however you want. Love your builds and videos! Thanks for my childhood. :)
Given the Arriflex can work with 12-24v it would make sense to adapt it to work with high capacity 18v Lion drill batteries.
There are lots of 3D printed adaptors you can download to create plug plates for the connection.
This has been bugging me all night, was it actually left charging overnight? NEVER LEAVE A JUMPERED FUSE UNATTENDED! There is a long history of fires started by people bypassing fuses, using a jumper for even a short test isn't the best idea but at least you are there to unplug it if it starts to smoke.
@@edwardfletcher7790 I would put some NiCd batteries in there.. Hes not going to be running this thing all the time so having durable batteries is better then something he will need to replace every 3 years because he barely touches it. he won't need to replace a good NiCd for 15-20 years (life)
I have concerns. The old mains cable would almost certainly fail insulation test. Should probably be replaced with a double insulated one. Old battery was 8.4v, new 12v. While this may not be a problem, hard to tell without diagram of the camera, this may throw out timing or put additional strain on components in the camera. I would not want to risk that kind of damage. I would place a fused buck converter between the new battery and the output of suitable current handling. This will correct the voltage and protect against shorts. *edit, spoke too soon and didn’t see the bit at the end about 16v (as my tv cut it off). I would still use a buck converter with fuse to isolate the battery from shorts.
Yeah, I agree. Running a motor on different voltages is all well and good, except that it will change speed, but I guess so long as the speed is variable, it probably will work, but I wonder if it's just dropping excess voltage across a resistor and if Adam will generate excess heat because of it.
in Adam's previous motor repair video for this camera he explains they are designed to handle a range of 12 to 24 volts, there's no concern going to sealed acid in this case, it will be fine.
@@sprocket2cog seems nobody read my edit at the end.
@@Distinctly.Average the edit wasnt there when I commented it's there now I've refreshed the page. cheers bud.
@@sprocket2cog Edit was done yesterday about five mins after I posted.
Awesome video. Just shows you can rebuild anything if you put the time into it. Worse case scenario if you couldn't fine the OG cables is make custom cables with different quick disconnects. Keep it up!
My dear, this takes me back to childhood quite nicely. There was an old man in town called Gangi, you remind me more of him every day. I would scrounge dead lamps, cameras, and radios from lawn sales and he would fix them in his basement and we would split the profits! I remember he got a similar one to these working nicely. However, they eventually had to take his tools away because he forgot that he wasn’t in France making bombs to fight invading bad guys. I dearly hope, dear entertainer, that you will never have to create something like that, I think it preyed upon his mind as a creator and fixer of things. Thank you so much for bringing to the fore all our best memories of the creators and storytellers of generations gone by.
Recently undertook a similar project with my 1985 VHS camcorder. All 3 of my lead acid batteries had finally all ceased to take a charge. I spent about 2 days figuring out a way to run the camcorder off of Lithium ION batteries instead. Worked like a treat and now instead of the usual 20min runtime I used to get with the Lead Acid, I get about 4hrs with the Lithium.
Love the editing and camerawork on this video, some things might not be perfectly in focus but it's so nice and relaxing to watch. You guys are doing great, keep it up!
Been Loving all these One Day builds lately!
Old tech is pretty cool, glad you fixed this camera up!
Thank you for the final mention on voltage! I was waiting whether you were running the camera too fast with that higher voltage!
Me too
I'm loving the hell out of this series / montage! (bam, bam, *bam*!)
How awesome that you managed to find a small battery that was just the right size. I love it.
Can’t wait to see the first roll!
"Why" you do this is why I'D do this if I was in possession of your skillset! Love the love.
The sound that camera makes is definitely part of the special effects sound bank used in the movie Aliens, Landing legs of the drop ship I think... and some doors?
I did wonder what had happened to the original wet cell battery, as one minute it was on charge overnight and the next you were fitting a lead acid battery, probably a wise decision as lithium would have required a more complex charging circuit.
I have regularly replaced electric drill batteries with the nearest equivalent lithium made up from 18650's and you do need to charge them differently.
Lithium batteries require a smarter BMS since they're not as stable as lead acid. Only difference is that lead acid have to significantly discharge before recharging while Lithium can be charged anytime.
I had the same thought. I wanted to know what the original batteries were (NiCad, I'm assuming) but suddenly we were putting a SLA into the case with a charger possibly designed for another battery technology. Did the old pack go boom overnight or just not hold a charge? Inquiring minds want to know!
I'd be tempted to make this compatible with v-mount batteries while somehow keeping the same form factor so it's vintage in appearance yet compatible with modern modular systems.
I love the clapboard. All that tape just building up with each video is great.
I can't wait to see this in action!
Adam's enthusiasm is infectious!!!!!
I have used that cellugell before, it doesn't help make leather any stronger or really restore it. Its for books or antique leather objects to stop the leather from breaking up from shelf wear of sliding around. Not for the strain of a strap holding a heavy object.
Can't wait to see you guys put film through the camera!
At approx 1:05 the words "...get it to be functional!" With progressively zoomed shots? Coordinated with Adam slapping the bench? Utterly brilliant and hilarious editing!!!!!
I was going to ask about the different Vdc but you answered it. Cool
Your IIC looks and sounds good! Very nice!
On set most of these cams were run at 24v. 12v is perfect.
The old battery (when new) did not have much capacity for this camera. Replacing with an SLA increased the runtime considerably. Good job.
As an electrician who has rebuilt his fair share of battery packs and chargers I was talking at the screen with all the safety issues I saw; I just kept saying unplug it. Don’t get me wrong I’ve had to mains (line) voltage check/test things but you don’t work on things under mains (line) voltage or even at operating voltages when capacitors get involved without insulated tooling as things can go bad quite quickly. I mean don’t get me wrong there are times you have to work,on energized systems but a lot of planning and safety measures go into place before any thing is done. I don’t tend to re-use much anymore as far as batteries as it’s just cheaper and easier to replace batteries; though I understand Adam and others want to keep things as original as possible.
It looks like a 3x7 pack which may fit or be replaced by AA NiMH batteries; 3 batteries in parallel with 7 packs in series would get you to roughly 8.4V and seems close size wise. Would also be more useful, assuming you’re powering things with it.
I’m glad it functioned under the change in voltage 8.4V-12V. As a side note you’ll want over 12V to charge a 12V battery, 13.5-14.5 tends to work out well; while 12V can maintain the battery you’ll need a higher voltage differential to effectively and efficiently charge it. One big benefit to the standards gel cell 12V is the form factor will be there in years when you want to replace it; and the replacement won’t be near the work that re-packing it would be.
All that to say you'd do something differently to what is working for somebody else, amazing.
Charging voltage was at 14.4v on the meter.
Lemon juice can help clean the battery corrosion - used it for years to clean battery compartments.
My dad has worked in electronics for the past thirty years or so, and he always uses pencil erasers for getting off the really bad big physical bits of acid and metal corrosion as a “first step”.
Does it work for the stuff from nicad batteries? I know that or vinegar will work for alkaline leakage
I’m an old guy that studied film and photography at De Anza College in Cupertino Ca. Back in the late ‘70s. We shot in 16mm, with Bolex cameras, and I I still own a Bolex 16, with turret lenses. I haven’t run any film through it, in over 30 years, and I have shot with Arriflex 16mm cameras. We always pronounced them Arri, like Harry. But I have to say, I totally butchered how to say, had to ask, how to pronounce, Angenieux lenses. I didn’t do a lot of film work, but worked in live television, for many years! I have always wanted a 35mm motion picture camera, like an Arri or a Mitchell, as an art piece, to compliment my Bolex, but even broken, are still worth a lot of money.
You have to film something with that and post it!! What a gorgeous piece of equipment.
I have an Arri 2c. trying to get a tripod now and looking for a power source. Since I graduated USC I have been trying to capture some Chicano Cinema on my motion picture camera. Thanks for this video
Love the batmaning in the camera adam!
love using old film cameras like my 16mm and 120 camera
Preserving that ratty mains cable while cutting up that bracket... It would've been trivial to fabricate an identical bracket in such a well equipped shop using any number of additive or subtractive methods, it's especially bizarre after he was talking about preserving it's potential museum quality on the motor episode.
27:25 "I pay respect to technology". Ouch. It pained me to watch this. It was destructive. I wish he hadn't used an item that was in such a good condition to only remove its history.
A couple of thoughts:
I thought it was a good opportunity to bring in a battery expert and go over some old battery restoration and modernization options.
I'm not sure why you didn't build a replica battery pack or packs. You could've saved/resorted the original for posterity and also built a replica or replica's for actual use based on modern better options.
Of course my suggestions would probably cost much more, and be more than one video. :)
All that said, still enjoyed the video.
Given the Arriflex can work with 12-24v it would make sense to adapt it to work with high capacity Lion drill batteries.
There are lots of 3D printed adaptors you can download to create plug plates for the connection.
Adam and Tested team inspired me years ago to start making again and I'm proud to say I just dropped my first video on my new maker channel. After building a shop/studio space and then having to move, rebuilding is done and I've launched the channel! Im so glad I never gave up even when I was faced with obstacles at every turn!
Congrats!
Neat! Those little Fluke 101 meters are the best 50 buck meter around.
I love this! Thanks for this Adam! I would love to see some footage recorded with that Arriflex!
Back when this camera was used on location and the sound guy was using mag tape on his Nagra reel-to-reel, the Director would call for lights, the DP might say ready, then camera and sound, the response from those two people would be "speed!" because they both took a moment to spool up, then a call for slate or sync, a clapper would be clapped and if they missed the sync at the start, they would hold it upside down and do it at the end, called an end slate. Then would call cut. The camera operator (me) would check the camera for proper function and obvious light leaks like tape (usually gaffers) that had fallen off and if satisfied would tell the AC (camera assistant) who would tell the Assistant Director (AD) who told the director (yelling across a set was highly frowned upon, but if they are all in the same place everyone nods) and if the Director liked the shot he would as for a "print". Motion picture film is negative so a positive film must be "printed" to watch it. No sound yet. The AC would mark the shot as "cut, print" and the film would be cut from the roll and processed. Not all the shots that were cut would be printed. Some cameras had a little button that would notch the film to find it later. Film was very expensive. All the cuts to be printed would be spliced together and printed at the same time for consistency in the chemical baths. A print would be made with a choice of "one light" or "best light". One light was cheaper because the lab would look at the film and give it one correction for color and exposure and all the shots would be processed at that exposure. Invariably some would be too light and others too dark. Best light would look at every single shot (not frame) and make corrections for each one and they would all look very nice. This print was referred to as "dailies" and you know the rest. The same procedure goes for sets but the cameras are bigger.
What is DP other than double penetration?
@@bushratbeachbum Director of Photography haha also called the Cinematographer
@@BariumCobaltNitrog3n cheers!
Great Sir.
If I could walk in into Adam's shop, and be allowed to pick just ONE thing to take home with me, I would take that gorgeous piece of leather that Adam uses as a cutting mat, and I would make a messenger bag out of it ... Would be the last bag I would ever need or want to own.
My cinema instructor who has a love of ARRI cameras told me you run the risk of damaging the motor if you run a 9v ARRI camera with a 12v power supply. You might want to use a 12v to 9v buck converter post battery.
My perceived change in frame rate when you were pulling the trigger makes me wonder if either the trigger needs replacing, if the wiring has a high resistance open in it or does the mechanical speed control need some TLC? I'd put a "clamp on" ammeter on one of the battery wires and track down where the variance is coming from. If the current flow is constant the governor needs help. You don't need to be relying on the tach to keep the frame rate steady while you are filming.
it rare to find some made my state fron long time go
Cool. I'm curious if in a future update to the pack you replaced the lead acid battery with a pack made of 18360 lithium batteries would provide any benefit.
It’s probably possible, the current industry standard is V-Mount (or Gold Mount) battery packs, which are essentially what you’re suggesting. They supply 14.8V, and the mounting plates often provide regulated output at a variety of voltages. I have a similar era 16mm film camera, and V-Mounts. The issue I’ve found with running these old cameras off of modern batteries is peak current. The motors pull a nice big spike when first starting, and that’s usually where the V-Mounts have problems. I get inconsistent starts. Once running, they’re fine, but these sealed lead acid units (motorcycle batteries) provide a very consistent camera startup, and plenty of juice to film all day.
@@ForestCinema did you try limiting the current with a few resistors? If you have an oscilloscope you could measure the peak current then calculate the resistors you need
Feels like this is one of those times when you should call in an expert for advice. There were better choices you could (should) have made that would have been far superior and safer.
Hahahahaha. You're hilarious.
@@bushratbeachbum He's right...
@@Slovenec5 no he's not.
@@bushratbeachbum Yes, he is.
-he could try cycling the old batteries, often helps wih nickel packs
-he could replace the old cells with new ones of the same type
-he could have gone for lithium instead of lead
-he should have installed a fuse
Do I have to keep going?
I know there's no point, but for the sake of the rethorical question
@@Slovenec5 he could have done a lot of things, but he obviously didn't want to.
It's nobodies business but his own what he does with his own belongings.
I just love all the "experts" who post here! Yeah, a fuse would be good idea, and a replacement cord *might* be advisable, but otherwise, what a bunch of nervous Nellies! You'd think Adam wanted to juggle nitro or similar, but since many comment reference "mains voltage", the bulk of the comments must be coming from 220V lands, which might explain things.
Just an FYI, a lead acid battery likes to be about 14V to be fully charged. Most charging systems will put 13-14V into the battery to charge it. With that at 12V, it may not fully charge the battery. Since your motor can operate quite happy between 12-24V as you stated in the last video, using a 14V transformer might be a better choice. Also keep in mind you will have to monitor this charging circuit as it will boil that lead acid since it will not switch over to a float charge.
It's charging at 14.4v.
Saludos amigo desde Mérida Yucatán 👍
Adam, let me know if you want to try some anamorphic on film, I have a couple rigs 😉
Thats a lovely bakelite case probably mid 60s that battery looks original doubt it will have any life left in it. Arri 2c's best of german engineering!!!
I'm concerned about the increased voltage. That poor camera sounded like it was SCREAMING. I'd be tempted to use seven 1.2V NiMH AA rechargeable cells in series and get my 8.4 volts. Modern NiMH cells have a LOT more capacity than the old ones. He wouldn't have had to cut that old charger frame up and the whole pack would have been a LOT lighter.
Did they ever make any power tools powered that way? Like the first cordless drills lol.
3xLiPo cells with a USB charging port would provide much greater capacity and lower weight? But I guess the weight of the Pb-acid battery does lend some vintage authenticity to the pack.
I find that when i put tape on stuff it is less for insurrance and more assurance ...just so i feel better
Saturating the strap with neatsfoot oil might have been better.
In the off chance you want to "improve" this further, you could sneak a car/12v/accessory USB charger in there to turn it into an absolutely silly USB power bank.
Subtitles +1 :D .. great vid!
I am guessing those batteries were nickel cadmium which just trickle charge incredibly slowly but they are so robust chemistry they should be viable for many decades
Where could I pick up a container of that gel? I have an old Japanese ammo pouch that is in dire need of preservation with something of that sort.
Hey Adam, I have a Arriflex S 16mm camera, would you say that the battery you have in this video would work on that camera?
Lovely to see this old camera coming back to life although seeing you doing non reversible mods those on those old gems doesn't sit well with me I have to say.
a PWM voltage converter (solid state) would be much more efficient (longer run time). For such an analogue device it would be perfect. Pulse Width Modulation works by presenting the full voltage for a fraction of the time within tiny time segments to give the lower voltage - which is why LED car lights seem to blink rapidly when they wizz past in the corner of your eye.
Edit: thought the transformer was for stepping the 12v DC down to 8.4v so, not really applicable.
I think it’s time that you take some of that masking tape off of the slide it’s starting to look like a tower. Lol what a cool history when you peel it apart though.
Bet you could replace that will lithium and get a lot more bang for your charge in the same size
Im sure he appreciates the education.
Several 200' film cans for sale right now on Ebay. FYI
Haven't quite finished yet, but imediatlly I notice that I worry about that charging circuit getting really quite warm insulated by that ABS foam brick. It might be fine, some charging circuits run really efficient and cool, but some don't.
Try taking some valium or less caffeine. Either way, chill.
5:32 Did you just use a Wire Brush to clean the terminals on the battery? I really think that's a good way to short out the battery. Good thing they are Lion
They aren't- at 1.2V each, from the 70's, they almost have to be NiCd, NiMH were not used for consumer products back then.
I’m happy you didn’t spend the first five minutes trying to figure out how the lid comes off 🤣🤣
Does the leather restorer work on fingers. Other names for it , I think my fingers are less sensetive than when young but i have better judjement into what to do with them. I bought some fork crimps this week and measured the outside of the one i wanted, but they were speced by the inside of the fork, another drawer to lable.
"I don't like cutting up vintage equipment", but instead of using my machine shop to make a plate with three holes in it, ill go ahead and cut up vintage equipment....
This is interesting
I think it's about time you remove all the tape from your scene marker. LOL I love when Adam talks to himself: "Uh-huh, yah, oh...*mumble, mumble*"
Would have left out the charging transfo, got a bigger battery in the case and get a second battery pack.
I can see why they built sound proof cases for the arriflex it’s quite noisy
Did I miss something or did he replace what he said was 8.4 volts with a 12 volt battery? Was there a voltage regulator involved somewhere and I didn't notice?
I was having the same thought however right at the end of the video Adam says he checked and the camera can run on anything from 8 to 16 volts. As the camera has a manual speed control (which is likely just a variable resistor or similar) I would expect the voltage going to the motor is controlled down to what it needs to run at correct speed. I suspect that some footage got lost due to the sudden change from trying the old battery to installing the new one. This is old electrical, not some modern electronics gizmo that needs to be within 0.1v or it releases the magic smoke.
Working with old corroded batteries. Oh yeah, thats Anxiety
Why?
Very little risk when they're that small and that dead.
Think I woulda went with an RC lipo pack and ditched the heavy lead acid battery. The chargers for them wouldn't have been any bigger.
the motors sound so loud. is that how it is supposed to be? How did they deaden the noise in Hollywood
"I don't like to cut up vintage equipment" ........................................ "cutting vintage equipment noises"
Let’s discuss that gorgeous brown leather standing trunk that is just chillin’ in your workshop. 😍
Video forthcoming!
Next week will be One day build: Adam changes a lightbulb
The moment Adam REALLY needs it: What the ... I thought this had been totally recharged. D*mn I used the whole charge testing it ...
Y did you cut it up you didnt say did the battery charge over night or no?you guys fast forward all the work?
Top Notch technology for the times.
put me down as another vote for just putting new NiCad cells in the battery. Lots of different size cells are still available with solder tabs. This will be a better match for the camera, and you can use the original charger... although that might benefit from a small update too. Also.. lead-acid batteries don't like being ignored. If you just put it up on the shelf without a gadget to maintain the charge, there's a good chance it'll be dead when you pick it up after 6 months. Or maybe just put in NiCads then???
Nicad has a pretty mean self discharge. 10% / month or more at higher temperatures.
Very noisy the camera 😅.
Excellent job
Somebody tell Adam to put new, fresh, better batteries in before something goes boom. Never mind.
What's going to go boom?
I’ll just get my thermal imaging camera, is there nothing that Adam doesn’t possess😂😂
Put an "ion battery" in it!!
You will get a much higher battery capacity...no battery problems, out in the field! 5:32
6:16 - Adam - dumps out little metal screws and nuts onto the leather covering the table
Automated captions - [Applause]
LOLOL Never change, automated captions! Please keep spelling Arriflex wrong EVERY time! :P
Not sure about the older batteries, but on today's Linus Tech Tips, Linus said that Arri will replace batteries in their housings at a discounted cost compared to building your own. His video is a cautionary tale on repairing your own too.
That video relates to Arri's modern lithium battery packs. I doubt if they offer the same service for the battery that Adam is working on.
@@danmenes3143 I'm used to NiCds, and I've never even seen that style before!
The case behind Adam?.....WHATS IN THE BOX!!!
Have fun shooting 35mm! Once you go celluloid you don't go back!
A few words about ARRI itself, please! It isn‘t just a company, it is also a part of cinema history.
Still used to this day too