If you have any questions, please use the BikeGremlin forum (I try to respond to every comment, but TH-cam sucks at notifications, especially when it comes to any follow-up questions): www.bikegremlin.net/ Relja
I looked at this with interest for my new (2023) PMW 32 A1 (20v cordless with an adapter/lead) it already has a bearing very close to the end of the casing.. just behind the thread. pleased with that and I don't have to fix it :)
Great video and very technically explained but some commentators have said that the newer tool has taken away this opportunity ! However, I applaud your engineering mind and consideration to the tool. Nice to listen to a person who understands the economics of industry. I really enjoyed listening to the video. I have a Parkside tool as well as my Dremel and they both work really well. Thanks and keep it up pal. x
I have one of these I bought in 2010 but didn't use until the other day. It seemed OK until I put a cutting disc in and, as you said, it broke in two at 25,000 rpm! So I bought the Speedclic set as you suggested. But it made a lot more noise and vibration... So I disassembled it. I found the single bearing seemed like it had come unstuck from the plastic chassis... I thought this was what caused the extra noise and vibration so I packed a tiny paper sleeve between the bearing and the chassis. On reassembling it makes just as much noise :( Perhaps I should superglue one side of the bearing against the chassis? Or, as it is twelve years old buy a new one?
If it still makes noise and vibrates with two bearings, and setting some preload (with a paper sleeve) doesn't help, I suppose it's a bad tool. My is far from a good tool, even though adding the extra bearing did help noticeably. I use it only occassionally, and it gets the job done, but it's neither super-precise, nor does it have enough power for any "serious" or "hard" work. I've been looking at the Bosch Pro alternative (I have batteries and a charger for that "program," as I have some other electric Bosch Pro tools). It still doesn't come with a brushless motor. Their small angle grinder comes with a brushless motor and works very well. So, my plan is to keep using this far-from-perfect Parkside tool for at least another year or two (if it "lives" that long). It does get the job done, it does speed up my work, and it costs about 1/10 of the Bosch Pro asking price in my country. Relja
Thank you for replying so quickly! Just to clarify my early model only has the one bearing. There is no extra space for adding a second one. I assume the outer race of the bearing should not spin? I mean only the inner race should spin. If that is the case should I try adding superglue to the outer face of the bearing? I ask because i think the outer face of the bearing is spinning and making the extra loud noise and vibration. @@BikeGremlinUS
The outer race should be fixed as far as I know. My tool had a mould (and room) for adding an extra bearings - so the shaft sits on two bearings, making it more stable. Both bearings have their outer races fixed. Relja
Thanks again. Are the outer faces fixed just by the pressure of the six screws holding the two halves of the plastic body together? I ask because when you oped it up I thought I saw there was nothing like glue etc holding the outer faces to the plastic chassis?@@BikeGremlinUS
@@greenbristol Yes, they seem to be held well in place just by the plastic mould (housing) being screwed tightly. However, there are small rubbers (shown at about 6 minutes ov the video) for the first bearing, the one that came with the tool. I was considering to "hack" something similar for the bearing I added, but it worked OK as it is, so I never got to doing that. Relja
An informative video thank you. I have the Aldi version of this rotary tool and it also has capacity for another bearing. Could you please explain 'mounting paste' another way. I was a little confused. Don't worry though, it's probably me!
Yes, I didn't explain that. I'll make a separate video on those - but briefly: it's a paste that helps things slide over each other, with a long-term anti-seize protection. I wrote an article on those: bike.bikegremlin.com/7172/anti-seize/
@@BikeGremlinUS Ah yes, of course. Here is one brand I am familiar with: COPASLIP is a high-performance compound specifically formulated to protect fasteners from seizure-induced by extremes of temperature, pressure, and corrosion. Thank you for your prompt reply.
I bought the tool yesterday and also a PFI 687-2RS bearing. It costs 2$. I paid almost 3 times more on shipping :)). It seems the new edition of the tool has a slightly different case in the place where we want to fit the bearing so the bearing doesn't fit. The bearing should be half a millimetre smaller in diameter. So I need to workout the case a little to fit the bearing.Will see how I can do that. You were right, there are vibrations even without any tool mounted. Definitely needs an additional bearing.
Half a mm in outer diameter could be a poorly made plastic case. I'm not sure if I could find a matching sized bearing with only 0.5 mm smaller outer diameter, only 13 mm sized ones. :( But yes, an additional bearing makes it a quite useful, OK to use tool. I've been using it more and more over time - for many situations where I used to spend more time with a file, or a hack-saw, now I can quickly get the job done using this tool. Factory-provided bits (cutters, grinding stones etc.) are rubbish, but I could find some decent quality ones by Dremel. So I practically paid for the tool alone, all the extras are good for the bin really. Still, with the added bearing, it works great at roughly 1/10 of the local Bosch price. We'll know in a few years if it lasts.
I think Parkside must have seen your video :0) , as the next model, PFBS 12 C5 (produced by OWIM) , no longer has that molded groove for another bearing (which was a good idea). And the USB C socket has now been moved further back. Apart from that, no other differences.
Your "Improvement" makes complete sense. For the manufacturer to skip a $5 bearing doesn't make any sense to me. Even if this tool was costing $5 more, it is still cheaper than buying other high end tools. Another stupid design of this tool is not being able to replace the battery when the battery runs flat. The older style used to come with the tool, battery and charger. This tool however, the manufacturer saved on battery casing, charger and so on and integrated the battery inside the tool. So if you ran out of battery, you need to wait until the battery charges up. I wonder if you can use the tool while the tool charges up?
I completely agree. A replaceable battery that can easily be plugged in and out (to put a spare one) would have made this tool even better. Definitely. As for the (very good and logical) question - YES, fortunately, it runs fine when on charger. I showed that in my original video, when I bought the tool: th-cam.com/video/4hTAUAcFYF4/w-d-xo.html (the link should open the vid. at about 5:15 when I talk and show that "feature")
Good question. I'll give that a try and post feedback. With one note: Running Li-ion batteries completely empty is generally not a very good idea, and I'll make a more detailed video on batteries to explain. But while it's still practically brand new, I suppose that running it completely empty once will not cause any measurable damage. Likewise, charging the batteries while using the appliance could cause the batteries to be overcharged (and thus damaged), so I would pay attention when doing that to not even go close to the "fully-charged." Again - I'll make a video with more details.
@@BikeGremlinUS When I said “flat” I didn’t mean properly empty, zero volts, no no, sorry if I confused you. I assume the tool has some sort of circuit board in order to cut off the power from the battery to the motor once a certain voltage reaches a threshold, 7,5V or so. It is from there, when the circuit boards cuts off the power to the motor, if you insert the charging cable, can you use the tool straight away? As you said, I assume it is still not good to use the tools while the battery is charging, even if it is charging from for lowest safest point at around 7.5V
Yes, most Li-ion bats/chargers have a cutoff. But there are a few caveats to watch out for. I'll make a separate video, or even two, on batteries and charging. Edit: and I'll test this tool with empty bat. on a charger, to see if it works straight away.
These electric tools Lidl sells are simply not worth the money. You will end up spending more for it than buying a better quality one. I bought a PFBS 160 B2 and it's worthless. Rotor spins offcenter which is a major problem. Motor or fanblades are hitting the housing and causing all kinds of noise. It can't even spin freely at low rpm. The tools are LOW quality and not as many as i expected for the money (almost 30 euros). I would have to buy a set of new ones for around 10 euros, and that would make it more expensive than a better "budget" one sold at hardware store and just 10 euros less than a Black&Decker with tons of good tools or a Dremel with a few basic tools.
my kinda guy, taking tools apart and make them better. i do the same myself. not 1 tool i own that i didnt modify something. i dont buy brushless tools because changing a motor is not as easy and replacing a can motor in a normal brushed tool
If you have any questions, please use the BikeGremlin forum (I try to respond to every comment, but TH-cam sucks at notifications, especially when it comes to any follow-up questions):
www.bikegremlin.net/
Relja
Thanks! My model PFBS 12 B6 accepted the new bearing perfectly.
I looked at this with interest for my new (2023) PMW 32 A1 (20v cordless with an adapter/lead) it already has a bearing very close to the end of the casing.. just behind the thread. pleased with that and I don't have to fix it :)
Great video and very technically explained but some commentators have said that the newer tool has taken away this opportunity ! However, I applaud your engineering mind and consideration to the tool. Nice to listen to a person who understands the economics of industry. I really enjoyed listening to the video. I have a Parkside tool as well as my Dremel and they both work really well. Thanks and keep it up pal. x
super návod,didaktický i pro blbce.pozdrav z CZ.
I have one of these I bought in 2010 but didn't use until the other day. It seemed OK until I put a cutting disc in and, as you said, it broke in two at 25,000 rpm! So I bought the Speedclic set as you suggested. But it made a lot more noise and vibration... So I disassembled it. I found the single bearing seemed like it had come unstuck from the plastic chassis... I thought this was what caused the extra noise and vibration so I packed a tiny paper sleeve between the bearing and the chassis. On reassembling it makes just as much noise :( Perhaps I should superglue one side of the bearing against the chassis? Or, as it is twelve years old buy a new one?
If it still makes noise and vibrates with two bearings, and setting some preload (with a paper sleeve) doesn't help, I suppose it's a bad tool.
My is far from a good tool, even though adding the extra bearing did help noticeably.
I use it only occassionally, and it gets the job done, but it's neither super-precise, nor does it have enough power for any "serious" or "hard" work.
I've been looking at the Bosch Pro alternative (I have batteries and a charger for that "program," as I have some other electric Bosch Pro tools).
It still doesn't come with a brushless motor.
Their small angle grinder comes with a brushless motor and works very well.
So, my plan is to keep using this far-from-perfect Parkside tool for at least another year or two (if it "lives" that long).
It does get the job done, it does speed up my work, and it costs about 1/10 of the Bosch Pro asking price in my country.
Relja
Thank you for replying so quickly! Just to clarify my early model only has the one bearing. There is no extra space for adding a second one. I assume the outer race of the bearing should not spin? I mean only the inner race should spin. If that is the case should I try adding superglue to the outer face of the bearing? I ask because i think the outer face of the bearing is spinning and making the extra loud noise and vibration. @@BikeGremlinUS
The outer race should be fixed as far as I know.
My tool had a mould (and room) for adding an extra bearings - so the shaft sits on two bearings, making it more stable.
Both bearings have their outer races fixed.
Relja
Thanks again. Are the outer faces fixed just by the pressure of the six screws holding the two halves of the plastic body together? I ask because when you oped it up I thought I saw there was nothing like glue etc holding the outer faces to the plastic chassis?@@BikeGremlinUS
@@greenbristol Yes, they seem to be held well in place just by the plastic mould (housing) being screwed tightly. However, there are small rubbers (shown at about 6 minutes ov the video) for the first bearing, the one that came with the tool.
I was considering to "hack" something similar for the bearing I added, but it worked OK as it is, so I never got to doing that.
Relja
I did exactly the same and it made a whole better.
An informative video thank you. I have the Aldi version of this rotary tool and it also has capacity for another bearing. Could you please explain 'mounting paste' another way. I was a little confused. Don't worry though, it's probably me!
Yes, I didn't explain that. I'll make a separate video on those - but briefly: it's a paste that helps things slide over each other, with a long-term anti-seize protection. I wrote an article on those:
bike.bikegremlin.com/7172/anti-seize/
@@BikeGremlinUS Ah yes, of course. Here is one brand I am familiar with:
COPASLIP is a high-performance compound specifically formulated to protect fasteners from seizure-induced by extremes of temperature, pressure, and corrosion.
Thank you for your prompt reply.
Nice imporvement, exactly what I had in mind. But there will come out a performance version which seems to be improvent and has less flex.
A most excellent video. 👍
I bought the tool yesterday and also a PFI 687-2RS bearing. It costs 2$. I paid almost 3 times more on shipping :)). It seems the new edition of the tool has a slightly different case in the place where we want to fit the bearing so the bearing doesn't fit. The bearing should be half a millimetre smaller in diameter. So I need to workout the case a little to fit the bearing.Will see how I can do that. You were right, there are vibrations even without any tool mounted. Definitely needs an additional bearing.
Half a mm in outer diameter could be a poorly made plastic case. I'm not sure if I could find a matching sized bearing with only 0.5 mm smaller outer diameter, only 13 mm sized ones. :(
But yes, an additional bearing makes it a quite useful, OK to use tool.
I've been using it more and more over time - for many situations where I used to spend more time with a file, or a hack-saw, now I can quickly get the job done using this tool.
Factory-provided bits (cutters, grinding stones etc.) are rubbish, but I could find some decent quality ones by Dremel. So I practically paid for the tool alone, all the extras are good for the bin really. Still, with the added bearing, it works great at roughly 1/10 of the local Bosch price. We'll know in a few years if it lasts.
I think Parkside must have seen your video :0) , as the next model, PFBS 12 C5 (produced by OWIM) , no longer has that molded groove for another bearing (which was a good idea). And the USB C socket has now been moved further back. Apart from that, no other differences.
Haha. :)
So, instead of adding the extra bearing, they've made it more difficult to install one after purchase? :(
I confirm, this solution It works.
Economies of scale. The cost per bearing would be tiny in comparison if buying by the thousand.
The model pfbs 12 c6 doesn’t have that space for an extra bearing and bearing 687-2rs doesn’t fit to this new model
Did they improve it (less wobbling), or just made it even cheaper?
Great video ! 😁👍🏻
Your "Improvement" makes complete sense. For the manufacturer to skip a $5 bearing doesn't make any sense to me. Even if this tool was costing $5 more, it is still cheaper than buying other high end tools. Another stupid design of this tool is not being able to replace the battery when the battery runs flat. The older style used to come with the tool, battery and charger. This tool however, the manufacturer saved on battery casing, charger and so on and integrated the battery inside the tool. So if you ran out of battery, you need to wait until the battery charges up. I wonder if you can use the tool while the tool charges up?
I completely agree.
A replaceable battery that can easily be plugged in and out (to put a spare one) would have made this tool even better. Definitely.
As for the (very good and logical) question - YES, fortunately, it runs fine when on charger. I showed that in my original video, when I bought the tool:
th-cam.com/video/4hTAUAcFYF4/w-d-xo.html
(the link should open the vid. at about 5:15 when I talk and show that "feature")
@@BikeGremlinUS
Did you try to run the battery completely flat, put it on charge and try if it works fine with the charging cable on?
Good question. I'll give that a try and post feedback. With one note:
Running Li-ion batteries completely empty is generally not a very good idea, and I'll make a more detailed video on batteries to explain. But while it's still practically brand new, I suppose that running it completely empty once will not cause any measurable damage.
Likewise, charging the batteries while using the appliance could cause the batteries to be overcharged (and thus damaged), so I would pay attention when doing that to not even go close to the "fully-charged." Again - I'll make a video with more details.
@@BikeGremlinUS
When I said “flat” I didn’t mean properly empty, zero volts, no no, sorry if I confused you. I assume the tool has some sort of circuit board in order to cut off the power from the battery to the motor once a certain voltage reaches a threshold, 7,5V or so. It is from there, when the circuit boards cuts off the power to the motor, if you insert the charging cable, can you use the tool straight away? As you said, I assume it is still not good to use the tools while the battery is charging, even if it is charging from for lowest safest point at around 7.5V
Yes, most Li-ion bats/chargers have a cutoff. But there are a few caveats to watch out for. I'll make a separate video, or even two, on batteries and charging.
Edit: and I'll test this tool with empty bat. on a charger, to see if it works straight away.
These electric tools Lidl sells are simply not worth the money. You will end up spending more for it than buying a better quality one. I bought a PFBS 160 B2 and it's worthless. Rotor spins offcenter which is a major problem. Motor or fanblades are hitting the housing and causing all kinds of noise. It can't even spin freely at low rpm.
The tools are LOW quality and not as many as i expected for the money (almost 30 euros). I would have to buy a set of new ones for around 10 euros, and that would make it more expensive than a better "budget" one sold at hardware store and just 10 euros less than a Black&Decker with tons of good tools or a Dremel with a few basic tools.
my kinda guy, taking tools apart and make them better. i do the same myself. not 1 tool i own that i didnt modify something. i dont buy brushless tools because changing a motor is not as easy and replacing a can motor in a normal brushed tool
You shouldn't be doing this though as it's a waste of money. Unless you can make them better without spending more money.