"sneak preak" LOL! bro I love this guy's authenticity, you can tell this man is knowledgeable on batteries and is an unbias media outlet for quality work, Keep goin my guy stay original!
As usual incredibly well done. I can't imagine anyone NOT watching the entire thing. I saw and copied Damians chart but you made it real! Stellar stuff Micah! AND I never thought of using a holder like a 100' tape measure for dispensing a roll of strip. I'm copying yours. Another well done piece. Looking forward to more. Where can I buy the book? On the website? Looking to see and order. AND a companion video! Rock on!!!
Hi Micha, I.m that Aussie that was wanting your Battery Kit, The New one that is coming. Any news on that? Also, I am having problems getting my head around these 18650 Batteries and how to build them, without burning down my house. I do have your new book but wanted to see if you could help me out with some answers to my questions. This 2 will no doubt also help a lot of others who are struggling. A little info on y current set setup. My Setup is this, Currently a dying 100 AH AGM Battery, 2x 200w Solar Panels Connected in Parallel to a Renogy Rover 30A MPPT Solar Regulator Controller Bluetooth Lithium AGM Gel. All of my Load Leads go through a Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block / 12 Circuits w/ Cover and I also have a 30amp Inline Fuse between the Solar and the Renogy Controller. From the Renogy Controller to the Positive terminal on the battery, I have installed a 100amp BusBar with Fuse. My New System will include everything above, except for the AGM. This will be replaced by my 186590's. I am using NEW Samsung 35E INR 18650 20A 3500mAh 3.7V. I also have a couple of 4S 10A~100A BMS Charger Protection Board 18650-Li-ion lithium Battery Cell. 1 Ideally, to start with I want to have a 353.5 AH - 7S 100P. Plus a Pure Sine 2,000 W This is to run, LED Lights, LED Lamp, Two Laptops and Phone Chargers x 2, to start with. Q-1 Would this work ok and would I get to use all of it AH apart from the last 20ah? I am looking to expand that up to approx 1,000 AH. with an appropriate Invertor to power everything we use. But first off, I need to completely understand the process first. Renogy Rover 30amp www.ebay.com.au/itm/Renogy-Rover-20-30-40A-MPPT-Solar-Regulator-Controller-Bluetooth-Lithium-AGM-Gel/292992982241?epid=4034409435&hash=item4437be1ce1:g:QpUAAOSwpvRcfiZz&frcectupt=true Q-2 Will this Controller be able to Properly Charge My 353.5 AH 18650 Battery Bank? It does have Adjustable Voltages. I want to be able to FUSE my 18650 Battery bank. Anyway, I came across this stuff and it looks to be a much better option that the Resistort Wire Option. this stuff is NICKEL FUSE 5P WIDE CONTINUOUS ROLL BY THE FOOT! 18650 CELL LEVEL FUSING. can you elaborate on this at all? is it as good as I think it is? Q-3 Will this work as advertised and do I still need to use Nickle Strips as well as this Nickle Fuse. Q-4 Would it be possible for you to build this system in a Vidoe Step by Step with Instructions showing exactly what parts are needed and how to configure each part along with explanations as to why it is done in this manner. And any other information that you can provide along the way, to help complete noobs like myself. Although I do have your book, which is fantastic, by the way. But I am more of a video tutorial type of learner and you are one of the best teachers that I have come across, So I would really appreciate it if you could take the time to put something together in order to answer these questions and also raise any other concerns that might limit the setup. Thanks for reading this and I look forward to hearing from you. Graeme
Hi Micah Excellent information video about building 18650 cell sets. All explained in layman's terms; I learned a lot from the video. Looking forward to your forthcoming book.
Hi, Did you use any fuses for the battery positive terminal? I am debating whether to have a fuse or not? Should not bms take car of short in the circuit?
What I do for solar is keep the entire pack 100p1s and to get my 29 volts for my inverter, each battery is connected with heavy duty copper bars than serve as collectors and then connected to a brass battery post and connect all 7 packs with 0 gauge copper wire about 8" in length, had this setup for about 5 years now
Can you please put a video for 48volt 24Ah lithium ion battery - when it failed to give the ratted capacity due to failure of one or more cells in the battery pack or BMS failure and how to know the failure because of battery cells or BMS . Thanks. Michael
How to decide the wire gauge while assembly of a new battery. And how to convert sqare Mm values to AWG OR SWG. Please make a video on these because i am facing so many problems related to this.
Hi love your videos Is there any Nickel strip universal have bought from Amazon brand: APROTII 18650 Battery Spot Welder, APROTII Portable Spot Welding Machine, 6 Gears and don’t know which is best nickel strip to buy any advice Thanks Paul
Your information is valuable, may i know which ni cd, , nimh, AA,AAA,C etc battery brand is good if you buy from amazon.... if you have any idea please share.
I have a question. I don't understand that many people seems to use one small nickel tab extended from the parallel group as the output/input terminal for the battery pack. In this case, the entire current for the pack is flowing through a single tab of nickel. Isn't this dangerous?
so correct me if i am wrong the current i pull equals what my ebike controller can put out?? example I have a 1200watt ebikeling hub and a 35 amp controller ....or is it based off what bms i use example 48volt 20 amphour battery with 40amp bms??? sorry I want to learn more been watching the videos
Do the spot welded joints act as a limiting factor to the current? Because their cross sections can be pretty small (therefore adding to a non-insignificant resistance). In your spot welding video, you make 3 welds on each terminal for that very reason. How much current can comfortably flow through each weld?
I doubt they matter too terribly much, as long as it's a solid connection. Each weld point only has to carry the current of a single cell, unlike the series connections between multiple cells
Thanks for a very interesting topic. I got a question regarding multipe row/columns of parallell connections. Lets say I got a 10*10 configuration of 1S100p and like to carry 50 amps for my 3.7V electric engine. Intuitively I would solder some wire capable of carrying the current to one row on both sides. But this ”should” make an uneven distribution of current. How should I then think to properly distribute nickel in all these parallell connections so I dont get an uneven ”carry”? Is this even a problem?
Hey bro just thought you might like to know that you present yourself really well on the tube .. just pick any subject and I bet you would explain it well . Keep it bro . Plenty of not so good tubers out there . Good to see some can get it just right .
How would affect performance and voltage drop of battery pack if instead of nickel strips to use 5A or 10A fuse wire, by spotwelding it or soldering. This would be easier compare to nickel strips. Video on TH-cam when do that for power walls, but would this work on 20Ah ebike battery pack?
Hi, Thank you for interesting video. I have a query. How did you calculated the acceptable current for different thickness of Nickel strip? it would be helpful if you could share the method to calculate it.
There are numerous charts that list the capacity of a given thickness and width. The charts list the cross sectional area of the strip in mm sq. So you can compare to wire. For example .15mm×8mm is 1.2mm sq. Equivalent to 17 gauge wire. I'm looking at a chart now that shows .15×8mm nickel is good for CDR of 4.9A. The Equivalent in copper would be approx 17.7A.
great video, i have a question if i had a sheet of nickel 1.5 meter diameter and wanted to pass 1500 amps and 5 volts dc is that possible and how thick does the nickle sheet would have to be?
So if I put two layers of 0.15 nickel strip, is that the same in the current chart as a 0.3 strip? I'm getting thrown off because the physical spot welds themselves are fairly small so isn't the current still getting bottlenecked there?
Hi micah I ordered your book from Amazon it has helped me on my diy battery building thanks I ordered a 48v 12.5 mah battery from Ebay I opened it up and yes it doesn't have much nickel in it it has only one strip across parallel and series configurations I noticed I wasn't getting much power from the battery so I am building more nickel on to it ?
In a 4s1p pack that could see 40+amps, for the very short series connections, would it be necessary to stack 8 of the .15x8mm nickel strips to be comfortable at 40+ amps? Does the steel of the can itself contribute to the connections ampacity?
I wouldn't do that. When I need big amperage capacity, I will solder copper strip or wire to the nickel, then spot weld the nickel to the batteries. I find it's easier using wire.i have both copper, .4mm×6"×12" and bare solid18 gauge wire.if you have pure nickel, .15×10mm it's good for 5A per Matador..a strip of copper, .4mm×8mm is good for 37A. So u are at 42A. 18 gauge is good for 15A, so solder 2 wires and your at 35A . Much easier, will work better and less expensive
Hey there, the video was very helpful. I am trying to build a 42s16p pack that will withdraw 450A current. Can you help me with design because I am really confused with the size i should use for my battery pack
I'm building a battery with Samsung 40t's in 20s10p, how do I carry all that current, it's 350a, I'm not about to weld like 20 Nickle strips on top of each other.
It may not be the best idea. What I'd do is build the pack. With a single nickle strip. Then solder solid copper wire to the strip. Not the cells. And have about 8 spot welds. And about 14 gauge copper. Maybe 16 or 18 ga if soldering is difficult. Just doubling or even quad runs of copper. I'm using 8gauge copper busses on my 100s packs. Fused per cell. I may go with 10gauge. But its 4 strands into a 2" by 3"copper plate . it should never see over 125a the busses are 10" and joined by other buss links across them 8" long. The 8-10 gauge should carry 40-50 amps each, easily for short durations. It being so short. Then connect with 2/0 gauge. It will usually see 50-100 a max. With occasional 200amps. Or as much as 4kw from from my 5kw inverter and DC loads. Depending on pack voltage. Up to 29.4v im going for a minimum of 23-24v and max of 28.8 or so. I know its a bit different than high current packs. Mine is 1400 cells. Of a total 2800! In 100 cell packs. Great video, I have been looking for this info.
I do the same. Will not stack. Have .4mm copper sheet to use, prefer bare solid copper wire. I'll double 24 gauge, ea good for 4A, or run 18 gauge, good for 40A. I try to solder before welding ni strip to batteries
Hi friend Love your videos I can't get nickel strips in my country, funny as it may sound its true! Can you suggest any other material that's as efficient as the nickel strips? And 1 other thing what material is lithium ion battery shells made of and can I used that after harvesting the shells from old dead lithium ion batteries ?
What if i have a 60v E-scotter and a 12v e-bike, and would like to build multiple 12v battery banks, which I could use for both? If I add a bms for each 12v bank, can then connect them in series? What happens when charging/discharging multiple packs?
Great info. I did learn something from it. I'm looking forward to seeing your new book coming out, as well as more videos on motor torque, and 2 wheel drive bikes. Keep up the great work.
The first setup with a pull of 40a with 8 strips is weird because then each cell should produce 10A. How would you treat a cell next to each other(in p)? Why give them 1 piece of strip should be 2 strip also right(again in p)? Because in your second setup that's how you did it, 5A(1) 10A(2 strip) 20a(4 strip).
How do I go about choosing a cell for a 15s5p (48v) I looked at 3.2v 32700 packages, 21650 etc and there are so many fakes out there and looking at reviews for every cell is tedious at best. I like the idea of having a 12.8 amp hour battery, but how realistic is that really even for a big cell like the 32700? Its causing me the most stress out of the entire conversion I have planned for my mountain bike... :) I have also noticed a plethora of 18650 cells out there ( half of the names I can't even pronounce) and the price is steadily climbing thanks in the North American surge of interest in e-bikes. I already have a strong background in electronics, in fact I can build a circuit board from a basic schematic diagram, including the board art, etching, placing and soldering components etc.... ------ funny that such a basic part of the building process is sourcing the cells and I'm at a standstill.. Thanks for listening to my rant.... :):)
Hey Micha, I Was Looking To Buy Some Pure Nickel Strip & Came Across A Copper Strip w/Nichel Plated From Same Seller For A Slightly More Cost? My Question Is, Will The Copper+Nickel Plated Strip Carry More Power-Amps Than Just Plain Nickel Strip? Thanks
Well, since a given piece of copper will carry 4 times nickel, of course it will carry more current. I solder both .4mm copper strip, good for 40A, or 18 solid wire good for 15A...
Should I choose solid nickel or nickel plated steel? Is there any difference in performance? Also, the strips are often joined to the battery by two weld-spots. These spot welds tend to be the same shape as the tip of the welder but let's assume that each spot-weld is round, and has a diameter of, say 2mm, (This is typical of the welds that I have observed on reclaimed cells). Surely this should figure in your / our calculations? Please, please respond. I think my point is more than valid, thanks.
what happens if i use oversized nickel strips? i need 31.25A and my configuration is 16s3p, 8mm*10mm would do the job? im thinking in conventional one strip to parallel and 1 strip to series so it would be 3 strips per series connection
Hi there, you are my "go to guy" for all battery queries and I have your book on battery building, it is superb. I have one question that I could find an answer to and it goes like this. I have connected all parallel cells in my 13s4p battery and now for the series connections. As the shape is very irregular can I solder the series strips on to the parallel using the 3 bridges between the 4 cells? I would double up the strips in series to ensure the current draw was catered for. I am thinking there would be little heat reaching the batteries. I wish to do this for two reasons. 1. To give me the freedom of dismantling in the future for another battery shape on another bike. 2. Soldering the series would be such an advantage as the spot welder only has limited reach. I hope this makes some sense. This is a new world for me but as a mechanical engineer I am hooked and plan to play for years. Friends I ride with are already interested in future battery builds for them too, which is nice! Kindest regards. Tim. G. From the UK.
Would you use Nickle plated copper strips for high power batteries ? Reason for asking is that I am quite shocked to find out that Nickle isnt so great at conducting.
hello sir new to this lithium-ion cell stuff. my stupid question is why pure nickel? how about pure copper? nickel plated copper? or nickel plated steel?
Great video. What if someone was to use copper strip instead of nickel? Also why limit ourself to strip can larger piece of conductive material be used such as Shim Stock they come in roll up to 6" wide? Many thanks for all your videos.
If I use incorrect size of nickel strip, how that affect battery performance? Will that part of nickel strip just warm up? Can this be exact rison why I get huge voltage drop under load.? From 42v to 36-35v. Could you show how change temp of nickel strip under different current.
Hi from norway I have seen People using copper strips in battery pack building :) can you please make a video about it and Tell People if it is good to use and safe to use? Copper vs nickel strip in battery pack what you shoud do and safety tips :)
Great video. Now I have a battery 10s4p(xiaomi m365pro) I would like to calculate what's the optimal size of the strip for each square set of paralel batteries. Unfortunately I cannot double up the tabs on top of each other but I can have them wider. How do I calculate if my 6mm/0.17mm nickel strip is sufficient. Thanks and sorry for the weired question.
Micah, I really appreciate your videos. The pack I am building is a 20s 7p. I'm just can't help but feel I should use copper over nickel. I understand nickel is easy to spot well because it's more resistive than copper. I plan on cutting 1 in wide strips of copper 26 gauge. My parallel packs are two cells wide so the 1-in should cover it nicely. I thought I might drill holes through the copper over the center of each cell and pre tin the cells. Then with a little flux and a good soldering iron. If I figured it right, 26 gauge 1-in wide strips should be slightly better than 8 gauge copper wire. I know you're not big on soldering these cells but isn't the nickel a bottleneck on the bigger packs?
The problem with copper is that you need to solder like you said. The nickel is more resistive, but since you put the necesary amount of material to let the current pass without resistence the result is the same.
Nice video, it helps a lot. Let me know when you sell the book. I may buy one. I want to do a flat battery for my skateboard. 10S3P. Should I link the cell and then bend the nickel strip (first setting you show) or use the second setting where you stack Nickel strip on each other?
Hi my name is Ben. I jus wanted to ask you if it is safe to attach two 48v batteries with a two to one connection and just plug it in to your controller?
Hi, can we use nickel copper alloy or nickel silver alloy . these seem to be pretty readily available. Its difficult finding pure nickel where i am at. can you help me out with this .... :S
Hello I am Akash from India. Your videos has been very useful for my project. But now I am manufacturing a racecar having PMAC motor. Its peak voltage is 470 V and current is 200 A . I am also using 1850 cells but I have no idea of how to connect these cells . My final configuration is coming out as 112s 7p for 7Kwhr battery pack. Either by using a spot welded Nickel strips or any other method. If Nickel strips are good then how much thickness should I consider . Please answer my question as soon as possible.
You are going to harm someone with such high voltage! Learn the basics and watch the TH-cam channel "electroboom". Anyway... For your project you need very massive nickel pieces. Better go with copper 👍🏻
7p is barely enough for your project, the best you can get out of on 18650 is 30A, by doing 7p, you will over heat them, not to mention the shortened capacity & lifespan.
Hi. I got the theory but if I'm to spot weld the nickel strip..... Is it possible to weld 2 or 3 strips above each other of 0.5mm thickness? How can I achieve that
On a somewhat related topic, in a different video you talk about testing the internal resistance of a battery. You end up with something like 325 milli ohms and mention that it is too high. What is a good number for a 18650 cell type battery? Iv built a battery and have some voltage sag and would like to figure out if it is ok or should i go back and add more strips, or shorten some of the wires.
What about amount of strips in paralel. I enough 1strip in 4and more cells in parallel? One more thing, is that OK if spotwelding to battery only one strip, as welding pure nickel strip to strip is not allways successful with DIY spotwelder. And last one would affect performance is nickel strip at welding point is cutted in two strips. Will this let spot welding easier?
Great video! I have also looked through your other tutorials and I was wondering how you would go about stacking the 18650 cells on top of each other...length wise, the reason would be to make a longer pack shorter. Thank you for your time.
Someone told me nickel strip amp depends on solar uses or electric skateboard uses. Solar uses needs more strip to get the proper amp protection. Whereas skateboard uses can just use 2 layers of 0.1 I guess 7 mm width on 80 amp. By your chart it seems it refers to ebike which is similar to skateboard. Can you clarify whether any of that is right?
LOL..according to the chart from Matador .15×7mm pure nickel is good for 4.3A. Just use copper sheet or copper wire. I use bare solid 18 wire.1 wire=15A, so wire and the nickel ur at 35A
I am creating a battery as a starter / main battery for an ICE motorcycle. It'll be an a123 4s1p pack. Once the engine is running the battery should be charging - if not, I have other problems. So, the only thing that I need to scale the connecting strips for is starting load. The OEM battery is rated 130cca and the a123 will burst at 120 amps. Do I need to scale for the burst (120 amps) using the factors given in the table (i.e. 24 0.15mm strips total / 8 strips per connection) or is there another factor I should use? Also, how do you connect the strips? This will be my first battery so I will be soldering it - do I solder the entire length of the strips or just a contact point at each end?
Sorry, I know this was quite some time ago, but did you finish your build? I've been wondering the same question about multiple strips - what's the ideal way to stack them? Do I still only solder the contact points?
amazing video!!! i have 6 x 18650 in parallel and nickel 0.1 x 10mm . i want to make 12 in parallel what would you recommend? i was thinking to put 6 bat + 15a fast blown fuse + 6bat 30a fuse. bad idea looks like because nickel strip wont handle 24A at 3.7 v dc right?
It really depends on your series connections. If you want to pull 24A through the battery, you'd need between 5 to 6 of that size of nickel strip in your series connections. So if you have a 12p setup, you could connect in between every other battery cell, at a minimum.
How do you attach wires to the nickel, for the balance controller and input/output? It seems you cannot solder to solid nickel plate. Must you spot weld the wires on? Is there another way? TIA!
You can definitely solder directly to the nickel. Some people do this before they spot weld the nickel on, but that requires more planning and being precise with the location. See some of my battery building videos with the spot welders and you'll see me soldering to nickel strips.
EbikeSchool.com awesome, there seems to be no clear answer to this out there, although I watched your other vid where you do just that! Can't wait for everything to arrive and start building!
@@kazoolordhd6591 using Molicel P42a cells. I didn’t anticipate pulling that many amps continuous but 135a peaks are what the cells are rated for (3x 45a)
Hi I am about to make a 6s8p configuration for my rc car.I want to use high amp 18650 cells because i need sometimes 60-80 amps. I made a battery holder cage to prevent the batteries from overheating. Can you please check it if its all right or not?
I had a guy do me a battery repair. He used nickel and solder to connect them. 4 parallel Samsung 2.7Ah batteries did not provide 10.8Ah, but more like 7 after being cooked.
I work in electronics. No. The only way to increase the Ah of the battery(ies) is to stack them in parallel or buy higher Ah batteries. The nickel strips are only a roadway for the current.
I wish I watched this about a month ago. I received bad advice and was told the I only needed to double up the parallel connections. Battery ran fine but I had massive voltage loss. (20s 8p setup)
"sneak preak" LOL! bro I love this guy's authenticity, you can tell this man is knowledgeable on batteries and is an unbias media outlet for quality work, Keep goin my guy stay original!
As usual incredibly well done. I can't imagine anyone NOT watching the entire thing. I saw and copied Damians chart but you made it real! Stellar stuff Micah! AND I never thought of using a holder like a 100' tape measure for dispensing a roll of strip. I'm copying yours. Another well done piece. Looking forward to more. Where can I buy the book? On the website? Looking to see and order. AND a companion video! Rock on!!!
Micah, thank you, thank you, thank you! I've been searching for this information for days. This just goes to show that good engineering is timeless.
You're right
I'm buying ur book. Least I can do for all ur time and passion helping me understand.
What about the parallel connections? How much nickel do they need?
Why would anyone dislike this video. Such great information
One of the best actually! Kudos to the time spent for explaining in such an extensive way yet easy enough to follow.
Hi Micha, I.m that Aussie that was wanting your Battery Kit, The New one that is coming. Any news on that?
Also, I am having problems getting my head around these 18650 Batteries and how to build them, without burning down my house.
I do have your new book but wanted to see if you could help me out with some answers to my questions. This 2 will no doubt also help a lot of others who are struggling.
A little info on y current set setup.
My Setup is this, Currently a dying 100 AH AGM Battery, 2x 200w Solar Panels Connected in Parallel to a Renogy Rover 30A MPPT Solar Regulator Controller Bluetooth Lithium AGM Gel. All of my Load Leads go through a Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block / 12 Circuits w/ Cover and I also have a 30amp Inline Fuse between the Solar and the Renogy Controller. From the Renogy Controller to the Positive terminal on the battery, I have installed a 100amp BusBar with Fuse.
My New System will include everything above, except for the AGM. This will be replaced by my 186590's.
I am using NEW Samsung 35E INR 18650 20A 3500mAh 3.7V. I also have a couple of 4S 10A~100A BMS Charger Protection Board 18650-Li-ion lithium Battery Cell.
1 Ideally, to start with I want to have a 353.5 AH - 7S 100P.
Plus a Pure Sine 2,000 W This is to run, LED Lights, LED Lamp, Two Laptops and Phone Chargers x 2, to start with.
Q-1 Would this work ok and would I get to use all of it AH apart from the last 20ah?
I am looking to expand that up to approx 1,000 AH. with an appropriate Invertor to power everything we use. But first off, I need to completely understand the process first.
Renogy Rover 30amp
www.ebay.com.au/itm/Renogy-Rover-20-30-40A-MPPT-Solar-Regulator-Controller-Bluetooth-Lithium-AGM-Gel/292992982241?epid=4034409435&hash=item4437be1ce1:g:QpUAAOSwpvRcfiZz&frcectupt=true
Q-2 Will this Controller be able to Properly Charge My 353.5 AH 18650 Battery Bank? It does have Adjustable Voltages.
I want to be able to FUSE my 18650 Battery bank. Anyway, I came across this stuff and it looks to be a much better option that the Resistort Wire Option. this stuff is NICKEL FUSE 5P WIDE CONTINUOUS ROLL BY THE FOOT! 18650 CELL LEVEL FUSING. can you elaborate on this at all? is it as good as I think it is?
Q-3 Will this work as advertised and do I still need to use Nickle Strips as well as this Nickle Fuse.
Q-4 Would it be possible for you to build this system in a Vidoe Step by Step with Instructions showing exactly what parts are needed and how to configure each part along with explanations as to why it is done in this manner. And any other information that you can provide along the way, to help complete noobs like myself.
Although I do have your book, which is fantastic, by the way.
But I am more of a video tutorial type of learner and you are one of the best teachers that I have come across,
So I would really appreciate it if you could take the time to put something together in order to answer these questions and also raise any other concerns that might limit the setup.
Thanks for reading this and I look forward to hearing from you.
Graeme
Can’t stop watching your videos man!
Hi Micah
Excellent information video about building 18650 cell sets.
All explained in layman's terms; I learned a lot from the video.
Looking forward to your forthcoming book.
Exactly the information I needed. Thanks, Joe
That's a great SIMPLE video. So simple to understand. Good Job !!
Hi,
Did you use any fuses for the battery positive terminal?
I am debating whether to have a fuse or not? Should not bms take car of short in the circuit?
What I do for solar is keep the entire pack 100p1s and to get my 29 volts for my inverter, each battery is connected with heavy duty copper bars than serve as collectors and then connected to a brass battery post and connect all 7 packs with 0 gauge copper wire about 8" in length, had this setup for about 5 years now
Can you please put a video for 48volt 24Ah lithium ion battery - when it failed to give the ratted capacity due to failure of one or more cells in the battery pack or BMS failure and how to know the failure because of battery cells or BMS .
Thanks. Michael
How to decide the wire gauge while assembly of a new battery. And how to convert sqare Mm values to AWG OR SWG. Please make a video on these because i am facing so many problems related to this.
Hi love your videos
Is there any Nickel strip universal have bought from Amazon brand: APROTII
18650 Battery Spot Welder, APROTII Portable Spot Welding Machine, 6 Gears and don’t know which is best nickel strip to buy any advice
Thanks Paul
Your information is valuable, may i know which ni cd, , nimh, AA,AAA,C etc battery brand is good if you buy from amazon.... if you have any idea please share.
I have a question.
I don't understand that many people seems to use one small nickel tab extended from the parallel group as the output/input terminal for the battery pack. In this case, the entire current for the pack is flowing through a single tab of nickel. Isn't this dangerous?
so correct me if i am wrong the current i pull equals what my ebike controller can put out?? example I have a 1200watt ebikeling hub and a 35 amp controller ....or is it based off what bms i use example 48volt 20 amphour battery with 40amp bms??? sorry I want to learn more been watching the videos
Do the spot welded joints act as a limiting factor to the current? Because their cross sections can be pretty small (therefore adding to a non-insignificant resistance). In your spot welding video, you make 3 welds on each terminal for that very reason. How much current can comfortably flow through each weld?
I doubt they matter too terribly much, as long as it's a solid connection. Each weld point only has to carry the current of a single cell, unlike the series connections between multiple cells
Thanks for a very interesting topic. I got a question regarding multipe row/columns of parallell connections. Lets say I got a 10*10 configuration of 1S100p and like to carry 50 amps for my 3.7V electric engine.
Intuitively I would solder some wire capable of carrying the current to one row on both sides. But this ”should” make an uneven distribution of current.
How should I then think to properly distribute nickel in all these parallell connections so I dont get an uneven ”carry”?
Is this even a problem?
Informative video thanks. I have a question, i am planning to build 24v 24ah battery, which mm nichel strip do i suppose to use ?
Great information as always!! Do you think you can do a tutorial/explanation video of the Safe Parallel Connection?
Hey bro just thought you might like to know that you present yourself really well on the tube .. just pick any subject and I bet you would explain it well . Keep it bro . Plenty of not so good tubers out there . Good to see some can get it just right .
How would affect performance and voltage drop of battery pack if instead of nickel strips to use 5A or 10A fuse wire, by spotwelding it or soldering. This would be easier compare to nickel strips. Video on TH-cam when do that for power walls, but would this work on 20Ah ebike battery pack?
Hi, Thank you for interesting video. I have a query. How did you calculated the acceptable current for different thickness of Nickel strip? it would be helpful if you could share the method to calculate it.
There are numerous charts that list the capacity of a given thickness and width. The charts list the cross sectional area of the strip in mm sq. So you can compare to wire. For example .15mm×8mm is 1.2mm sq. Equivalent to 17 gauge wire. I'm looking at a chart now that shows .15×8mm nickel is good for CDR of 4.9A. The Equivalent in copper would be approx 17.7A.
great video, i have a question if i had a sheet of nickel 1.5 meter diameter and wanted to pass 1500 amps and 5 volts dc is that possible and how thick does the nickle sheet would have to be?
So if I put two layers of 0.15 nickel strip, is that the same in the current chart as a 0.3 strip? I'm getting thrown off because the physical spot welds themselves are fairly small so isn't the current still getting bottlenecked there?
I'm going to create a 60v 24ah 17s battery pack what size nickel would I need to be safe to use? Thanks
Hi micah I ordered your book from Amazon it has helped me on my diy battery building thanks I ordered a 48v 12.5 mah battery from Ebay I opened it up and yes it doesn't have much nickel in it it has only one strip across parallel and series configurations I noticed I wasn't getting much power from the battery so I am building more nickel on to it ?
In a 4s1p pack that could see 40+amps, for the very short series connections, would it be necessary to stack 8 of the .15x8mm nickel strips to be comfortable at 40+ amps? Does the steel of the can itself contribute to the connections ampacity?
I wouldn't do that. When I need big amperage capacity, I will solder copper strip or wire to the nickel, then spot weld the nickel to the batteries. I find it's easier using wire.i have both copper, .4mm×6"×12" and bare solid18 gauge wire.if you have pure nickel, .15×10mm it's good for 5A per Matador..a strip of copper, .4mm×8mm is good for 37A. So u are at 42A. 18 gauge is good for 15A, so solder 2 wires and your at 35A . Much easier, will work better and less expensive
so is it the more nickel strip the better even my diy21700 battery back are just for charging mobile phone , ?
What about charging the battery pack? Do I use the same rules? If I wanted to charge the pack with a 40 amp charger.
Brilliant information brother explained beautifully!
I don't need to go watching any more videos on this topic 😊 good job boss. Take care 🤝🙂
Hi I would like to hear your opinion about ternary battery what do you think of it Is it safe.
Hi, How do we calculate or design Nickel fuse dimension for the battery pack?
Hi , what about parallel groups ? They dont need more nickel strips ?
How do you get the max battery current?
I plan on doing a battery pack for my escooter, pack would be
1cell=3000mah
48V
9ah
Hey there, the video was very helpful. I am trying to build a 42s16p pack that will withdraw 450A current. Can you help me with design because I am really confused with the size i should use for my battery pack
Ah its so smol dont worry
42S? 155V right?
What are you doing?
0.25mm thick pure nickel strip
LMAO. .25×8mm is good for 9A. He needs to solder on top the nickel. I use .4mm copper (40A) or bare solid 18 gauge wire (15A).
I'm building a battery with Samsung 40t's in 20s10p, how do I carry all that current, it's 350a, I'm not about to weld like 20 Nickle strips on top of each other.
It may not be the best idea. What I'd do is build the pack. With a single nickle strip. Then solder solid copper wire to the strip. Not the cells. And have about 8 spot welds. And about 14 gauge copper. Maybe 16 or 18 ga if soldering is difficult. Just doubling or even quad runs of copper. I'm using 8gauge copper busses on my 100s packs. Fused per cell. I may go with 10gauge. But its 4 strands into a 2" by 3"copper plate . it should never see over 125a the busses are 10" and joined by other buss links across them 8" long. The 8-10 gauge should carry 40-50 amps each, easily for short durations. It being so short. Then connect with 2/0 gauge. It will usually see 50-100 a max. With occasional 200amps. Or as much as 4kw from from my 5kw inverter and DC loads. Depending on pack voltage. Up to 29.4v im going for a minimum of 23-24v and max of 28.8 or so. I know its a bit different than high current packs. Mine is 1400 cells. Of a total 2800! In 100 cell packs. Great video, I have been looking for this info.
I do the same. Will not stack. Have .4mm copper sheet to use, prefer bare solid copper wire. I'll double 24 gauge, ea good for 4A, or run 18 gauge, good for 40A. I try to solder before welding ni strip to batteries
Hi, in different courant, why you do not have other thiks of nickel ?
Hi, is it doable to do spot welding of a 0.1 copper sheet under nickel strips? Pros/cons?
This is a really great video thank you. Final piece of the puzzle for my battery building techniques. Really important!
Hey Buddy, will the last nickel strips of battery pack handle the 180 Amps continuous current if I choose the thick strip?
I want to connect 36p 3s what would be the best way to connect or would you recommend 18p 6s
Hi friend
Love your videos
I can't get nickel strips in my country, funny as it may sound its true!
Can you suggest any other material that's as efficient as the nickel strips?
And 1 other thing what material is lithium ion battery shells made of and can I used that after harvesting the shells from old dead lithium ion batteries ?
What if i have a 60v E-scotter and a 12v e-bike, and would like to build multiple 12v battery banks, which I could use for both? If I add a bms for each 12v bank, can then connect them in series? What happens when charging/discharging multiple packs?
Great info. I did learn something from it. I'm looking forward to seeing your new book coming out, as well as more videos on motor torque, and 2 wheel drive bikes. Keep up the great work.
What happend if you have to many connexions or too thick nickel strips ? Is that good or bad ? Thanks
Thanks a lot for the simple and meanincfull explanation.
The first setup with a pull of 40a with 8 strips is weird because then each cell should produce 10A. How would you treat a cell next to each other(in p)? Why give them 1 piece of strip should be 2 strip also right(again in p)? Because in your second setup that's how you did it, 5A(1) 10A(2 strip) 20a(4 strip).
How do I go about choosing a cell for a 15s5p (48v) I looked at 3.2v 32700 packages, 21650 etc and there are so many fakes out there and looking at reviews for every cell is tedious at best. I like the idea of having a 12.8 amp hour battery, but how realistic is that really even for a big cell like the 32700? Its causing me the most stress out of the entire conversion I have planned for my mountain bike... :) I have also noticed a plethora of 18650 cells out there ( half of the names I can't even pronounce) and the price is steadily climbing thanks in the North American surge of interest in e-bikes. I already have a strong background in electronics, in fact I can build a circuit board from a basic schematic diagram, including the board art, etching, placing and soldering components etc....
------ funny that such a basic part of the building process is sourcing the cells and I'm at a standstill.. Thanks for listening to my rant.... :):)
should I make the calculations with the max amp or average?
Hey Micha, I Was Looking To Buy Some Pure Nickel Strip & Came Across A Copper Strip w/Nichel Plated From Same Seller For A Slightly More Cost? My Question Is, Will The Copper+Nickel Plated Strip Carry More Power-Amps Than Just Plain Nickel Strip? Thanks
Well, since a given piece of copper will carry 4 times nickel, of course it will carry more current. I solder both .4mm copper strip, good for 40A, or 18 solid wire good for 15A...
Should I choose solid nickel or nickel plated steel? Is there any difference in performance?
Also, the strips are often joined to the battery by two weld-spots. These spot welds tend to be the same shape as the tip of the welder but let's assume that each spot-weld is round, and has a diameter of, say 2mm, (This is typical of the welds that I have observed on reclaimed cells). Surely this should figure in your / our calculations?
Please, please respond. I think my point is more than valid, thanks.
what happens if i use oversized nickel strips? i need 31.25A and my configuration is 16s3p, 8mm*10mm would do the job? im thinking in conventional one strip to parallel and 1 strip to series so it would be 3 strips per series connection
Hi there, you are my "go to guy" for all battery queries and I have your book on battery building, it is superb. I have one question that I could find an answer to and it goes like this.
I have connected all parallel cells in my 13s4p battery and now for the series connections. As the shape is very irregular can I solder the series strips on to the parallel using the 3 bridges between the 4 cells? I would double up the strips in series to ensure the current draw was catered for. I am thinking there would be little heat reaching the batteries.
I wish to do this for two reasons.
1. To give me the freedom of dismantling in the future for another battery shape on another bike.
2. Soldering the series would be such an advantage as the spot welder only has limited reach.
I hope this makes some sense. This is a new world for me but as a mechanical engineer I am hooked and plan to play for years. Friends I ride with are already interested in future battery builds for them too, which is nice!
Kindest regards. Tim. G. From the UK.
Would you use Nickle plated copper strips for high power batteries ?
Reason for asking is that I am quite shocked to find out that Nickle isnt so great at conducting.
25% of copper
Very helpful thank you. I’m building a 12s for my electric mountain board. Thanks man. 👌🏼
Ha I’m building a pack for my mountain board also. Doing 11s10p
@@spireEngineering6523 good stuff 👌😉
hello sir new to this lithium-ion cell stuff. my stupid question is why pure nickel? how about pure copper? nickel plated copper? or nickel plated steel?
Great video. What if someone was to use copper strip instead of nickel? Also why limit ourself to strip can larger piece of conductive material be used such as Shim Stock they come in roll up to 6" wide? Many thanks for all your videos.
.2mm×10mm pure nickel is good for a CDR of 8A. Same size strip in copper is 31A. The strip is equivalent of 14 gauge wire..
What about total positive or negative connections at that point full corrent goes on only one strip
If I use incorrect size of nickel strip, how that affect battery performance? Will that part of nickel strip just warm up? Can this be exact rison why I get huge voltage drop under load.? From 42v to 36-35v. Could you show how change temp of nickel strip under different current.
Yes
Quite simply sir, you are awesome. Can't wait for your new book.
Hi from norway
I have seen People using copper strips in battery pack building :) can you please make a video about it and Tell People if it is good to use and safe to use?
Copper vs nickel strip in battery pack what you shoud do and safety tips :)
that last in line configuration. can you do the same but in series. ex) 4s2p using the middle?
( + - + - +) (+ - + - +) ?
Is only on nickle strip from one to each other allright?
It should be a: 17s 6p (3,6V 2900mAh) with nickle Strip 9mm x 0.3mm
Great video. Now I have a battery 10s4p(xiaomi m365pro) I would like to calculate what's the optimal size of the strip for each square set of paralel batteries. Unfortunately I cannot double up the tabs on top of each other but I can have them wider. How do I calculate if my 6mm/0.17mm nickel strip is sufficient. Thanks and sorry for the weired question.
Micah, I really appreciate your videos. The pack I am building is a 20s 7p. I'm just can't help but feel I should use copper over nickel. I understand nickel is easy to spot well because it's more resistive than copper. I plan on cutting 1 in wide strips of copper 26 gauge. My parallel packs are two cells wide so the 1-in should cover it nicely. I thought I might drill holes through the copper over the center of each cell and pre tin the cells. Then with a little flux and a good soldering iron. If I figured it right, 26 gauge 1-in wide strips should be slightly better than 8 gauge copper wire. I know you're not big on soldering these cells but isn't the nickel a bottleneck on the bigger packs?
The problem with copper is that you need to solder like you said. The nickel is more resistive, but since you put the necesary amount of material to let the current pass without resistence the result is the same.
I build a 20s5p with 0.7x6mm copper Strips, and i can pull easy 100a.
But its very hard to solder.
Man I would greatly appreciate and benefit from your book !! Please !! Thank you !!
If the length is huge, like 24S for example. does the overall length not come into question?
Nice video, it helps a lot. Let me know when you sell the book. I may buy one.
I want to do a flat battery for my skateboard. 10S3P. Should I link the cell and then bend the nickel strip (first setting you show) or use the second setting where you stack Nickel strip on each other?
What about copper and tin sandwich method?
Hi, is it ok to use button top 18650 batteries
Hi my name is Ben. I jus wanted to ask you if it is safe to attach two 48v batteries with a two to one connection and just plug it in to your controller?
If you mean parallel, then yes. As long as they are charged at the same level.
Hi, can we use nickel copper alloy or nickel silver alloy . these seem to be pretty readily available. Its difficult finding pure nickel where i am at. can you help me out with this .... :S
Hello I am Akash from India. Your videos has been very useful for my project. But now I am manufacturing a racecar having PMAC motor. Its peak voltage is 470 V and current is 200 A . I am also using 1850 cells but I have no idea of how to connect these cells . My final configuration is coming out as 112s 7p for 7Kwhr battery pack. Either by using a spot welded Nickel strips or any other method. If Nickel strips are good then how much thickness should I consider . Please answer my question as soon as possible.
You are going to harm someone with such high voltage! Learn the basics and watch the TH-cam channel "electroboom". Anyway... For your project you need very massive nickel pieces. Better go with copper 👍🏻
7p is barely enough for your project, the best you can get out of on 18650 is 30A, by doing 7p, you will over heat them, not to mention the shortened capacity & lifespan.
Hi.
I got the theory but if I'm to spot weld the nickel strip..... Is it possible to weld 2 or 3 strips above each other of 0.5mm thickness?
How can I achieve that
On a somewhat related topic, in a different video you talk about testing the internal resistance of a battery. You end up with something like 325 milli ohms and mention that it is too high. What is a good number for a 18650 cell type battery? Iv built a battery and have some voltage sag and would like to figure out if it is ok or should i go back and add more strips, or shorten some of the wires.
What about amount of strips in paralel. I enough 1strip in 4and more cells in parallel?
One more thing, is that OK if spotwelding to battery only one strip, as welding pure nickel strip to strip is not allways successful with DIY spotwelder.
And last one would affect performance is nickel strip at welding point is cutted in two strips. Will this let spot welding easier?
Solder copper on top of nickel
Great video! I have also looked through your other tutorials and I was wondering how you would go about stacking the 18650 cells on top of each other...length wise, the reason would be to make a longer pack shorter.
Thank you for your time.
This is what I do I make the battery long then bend the plate and stack them upright good with s3 not so good s10
Someone told me nickel strip amp depends on solar uses or electric skateboard uses. Solar uses needs more strip to get the proper amp protection. Whereas skateboard uses can just use 2 layers of 0.1 I guess 7 mm width on 80 amp. By your chart it seems it refers to ebike which is similar to skateboard. Can you clarify whether any of that is right?
LOL..according to the chart from Matador .15×7mm pure nickel is good for 4.3A. Just use copper sheet or copper wire. I use bare solid 18 wire.1 wire=15A, so wire and the nickel ur at 35A
I am creating a battery as a starter / main battery for an ICE motorcycle. It'll be an a123 4s1p pack. Once the engine is running the battery should be charging - if not, I have other problems. So, the only thing that I need to scale the connecting strips for is starting load. The OEM battery is rated 130cca and the a123 will burst at 120 amps. Do I need to scale for the burst (120 amps) using the factors given in the table (i.e. 24 0.15mm strips total / 8 strips per connection) or is there another factor I should use? Also, how do you connect the strips? This will be my first battery so I will be soldering it - do I solder the entire length of the strips or just a contact point at each end?
Sorry, I know this was quite some time ago, but did you finish your build? I've been wondering the same question about multiple strips - what's the ideal way to stack them? Do I still only solder the contact points?
amazing video!!! i have 6 x 18650 in parallel and nickel 0.1 x 10mm . i want to make 12 in parallel what would you recommend? i was thinking to put 6 bat + 15a fast blown fuse + 6bat 30a fuse. bad idea looks like because nickel strip wont handle 24A at 3.7 v dc right?
It really depends on your series connections. If you want to pull 24A through the battery, you'd need between 5 to 6 of that size of nickel strip in your series connections. So if you have a 12p setup, you could connect in between every other battery cell, at a minimum.
Thanks so much Boss👍👍👍, that's a nice tutorial.......i just liked your video and subscribed to your channel......Hello from Ghana, Africa✌✌✌
Thanks for your time and expertise
as batteries have 2 ends, do we need in required amperage per strip divide by 2?
No
How do you attach wires to the nickel, for the balance controller and input/output? It seems you cannot solder to solid nickel plate. Must you spot weld the wires on? Is there another way? TIA!
You can definitely solder directly to the nickel. Some people do this before they spot weld the nickel on, but that requires more planning and being precise with the location. See some of my battery building videos with the spot welders and you'll see me soldering to nickel strips.
EbikeSchool.com awesome, there seems to be no clear answer to this out there, although I watched your other vid where you do just that! Can't wait for everything to arrive and start building!
Solder!!
What would you recommend for a larger scale battery (say 12S3P lithium pack) that is going to have ~150amps pulled from it?
How are you pulling 150 amps from a 3p li ion battery?
@@kazoolordhd6591 using Molicel P42a cells. I didn’t anticipate pulling that many amps continuous but 135a peaks are what the cells are rated for (3x 45a)
Hi I am about to make a 6s8p configuration for my rc car.I want to use high amp 18650 cells because i need sometimes 60-80 amps. I made a battery holder cage to prevent the batteries from overheating. Can you please check it if its all right or not?
Sounds like a great start!
I had a guy do me a battery repair. He used nickel and solder to connect them. 4 parallel Samsung 2.7Ah batteries did not provide 10.8Ah, but more like 7 after being cooked.
He should have soldered the copper to the nickel and then spot weld
2:33 Parallel, two parallel connections in the cell to cell series connection.
(has this been asked…) Why not stack the series batteries, like a torch/flashlight? Is the contact between each battery pair poor?
It is not stacked because it would be quite tall.
I'm sorry if you have answered this question before. But can you increase Ah of battery by stacking nickel strips?
I work in electronics.
No. The only way to increase the Ah of the battery(ies) is to stack them in parallel or buy higher Ah batteries. The nickel strips are only a roadway for the current.
Does the battery will more likely heat when the nickel strips is less than it ahpuld be?
Yes
Excellent explanation 👍👍👍
Sir please suggest how to calculate total IR of battery pack??
I wish I watched this about a month ago. I received bad advice and was told the I only needed to double up the parallel connections. Battery ran fine but I had massive voltage loss. (20s 8p setup)
you are doing great job mate! hope your smile remain on your face forever :)
Thanks, and I'll try! My wife tells me I should smile more in my videos :-)