Love this! I got this exact one for free. It needed a new carb, new tire and a new chute top. I will save this for any repair I may need to do. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing. I have one just like this that I got for free. In real good shape. Doing the same things you did. You're right these things are built like a tank
Something else that works great for removing grease is lacquer thinner. I get it by the gallon and put it in an old 409 bottle so I can spray or stream, lol.
I picked one up side of road st 824 the motor turns easy, but had no gas when i got home put gas in pulled cord the cord snapped plugged in electric start shounds like no teeth worn out or broken on flywheel o starter gear put in barn last year havent touched it since but probably will this summer
My old Ariens is built like a battle tank, LOL! it's a model 10M4 made in 1965 and still fires right up and goes. Recently I have picked up a model 824 and was wondering, other than a few differences like the chute and headlight what's the difference between an ST 824 and an 824? Just the years made or what?
Good video! I have a ST928 it's an ok snowblower at best, same thing as yours it needed a ton of work too. Compared to an old 10000 series Ariens they are junk. 10000 series Ariens are truly the best snowblowers Ariens ever built. The auger bucket is made with twice as thick metal, it also has a super heavy scraper bar also compared to the cheap sheet metal ones like yours and mine has. The auger drive system is way better too, and auger bearing doesn't go out all the time like your ST824 or my ST928 do. That and the axle bushings seem to last way longer then the cheap Chinese axle bearings do on the 824/928 also.
I dunno, I find the metal housing to be very thick compared to what's available today. Axle bearings lasted 40 years. I can't complain about all the things I replaced after 40+ years, I call it normal maintenence items. I bet this thing will outlast me, lol.
I'm not saying they are bad snowblowers, just compared to a late 60's to late 70's 10000 series Ariens a ST824/ST928 are not even in the same league as how well they are built. I own both of them and the 10000 series is built like a tank compared to the ST series of the 80's and 90's not to mention the crappy paint the 80's and 90's ones had.@@woodtickgreg6926
I can't remember where I got it. I just did a search on Google. I might have downloaded it right from ariens. I just printed it off at home. You do want to match it up by serial and model number.
@Rebel9668 I have a concrete drive and the plastic ones don't mark up the surface like the steel shoes do. But I also have a brand new set of steel shoes as a backup.
@bc454irocz89 I'd just change it, they are not real expensive. Get the stens replacement part. Drive belt and the drive disc are 2 things that wear out and need to be replaced. Cracks are signs that it is nearing the end of its life.
@@woodtickgreg6926 I changed the impeller bearing, hex shaft bearing auger bushings and drive axle bushings. Needed an oxyacetylene torch to get the wheel hub off. I made a new scraper bar drift cutters and skid shoes. I put a set of chains on it too and did the impeller wiper mod
@@woodtickgreg6926Hello, can you help me what number of the Tec Sumo engine was installed? I have the 924040 model, I wanted to overhaul the engine, I need an engine gasket, but I don't know the engine model. please help
Nice job and nice machine. The only critique that I have is I didn’t see you check the rear bearing for the auger shaft. Considering the condition of the other ball bearings, the odds of that ball bearing being any good don’t seem high to me. That combined with the regularity of these bearings wearing out on older machines is working against you. I don’t know why I don’t see the folks working on these checking those bearings very often? The only answer I can conclude if they don’t know how to check it, it’s quite simple. You simply remove the top cover grab the pulley and pull upwards. No other disassembly required and the machine should be in normal upright position. If you feel distinct slop, it’s bad. I think when folks try to do this from underneath or in the air with the belly pan off the tension from the belt is enough to throw the test off as well as the weight on the shaft is different. Replacing it well that’s an entirely different kettle of fish. Maybe that’s why they’re not looking. Hint, any pulley keyways, will have bulged the shaft which need to be filed in that area before attempting to disassemble because the shaft will not pull through the bearing. The shaft is so soft, even a minor hammer blow directly to the end of it will mushroom the shaft so it will not go through the bearing! Have your brass drifts handy? This should keep you out of trouble and not needing extreme persuasion a.k.a. acetylene torch and other cuss words!
Good advise. Even though I did not show it or talk about it I did check that bearing and all others. I only replaced the obviously worn bearings. If I ever have to replace the auger shaft bearing that's an entirely new project for another day. But for now she is working great!
Love this! I got this exact one for free. It needed a new carb, new tire and a new chute top. I will save this for any repair I may need to do. Thanks! Thanks! Thanks!
Thank you for sharing. I have one just like this that I got for free. In real good shape. Doing the same things you did. You're right these things are built like a tank
Great video. Thank you.
Something else that works great for removing grease is lacquer thinner. I get it by the gallon and put it in an old 409 bottle so I can spray or stream, lol.
@Rebel9668 Yeah the only thing bad about lacquer thinner is it is highly flammable!
I picked one up side of road st 824 the motor turns easy, but had no gas when i got home put gas in pulled cord the cord snapped plugged in electric start shounds like no teeth worn out or broken on flywheel o starter gear put in barn last year havent touched it since but probably will this summer
These are well built machines, they don't build em like this anymore.
My old Ariens is built like a battle tank, LOL! it's a model 10M4 made in 1965 and still fires right up and goes. Recently I have picked up a model 824 and was wondering, other than a few differences like the chute and headlight what's the difference between an ST 824 and an 824? Just the years made or what?
@Rebel9668 I'm not 100% positive on this but I think it's just different years and graphics.
Good video! I have a ST928 it's an ok snowblower at best, same thing as yours it needed a ton of work too. Compared to an old 10000 series Ariens they are junk. 10000 series Ariens are truly the best snowblowers Ariens ever built. The auger bucket is made with twice as thick metal, it also has a super heavy scraper bar also compared to the cheap sheet metal ones like yours and mine has. The auger drive system is way better too, and auger bearing doesn't go out all the time like your ST824 or my ST928 do. That and the axle bushings seem to last way longer then the cheap Chinese axle bearings do on the 824/928 also.
I dunno, I find the metal housing to be very thick compared to what's available today. Axle bearings lasted 40 years. I can't complain about all the things I replaced after 40+ years, I call it normal maintenence items. I bet this thing will outlast me, lol.
I'm not saying they are bad snowblowers, just compared to a late 60's to late 70's 10000 series Ariens a ST824/ST928 are not even in the same league as how well they are built. I own both of them and the 10000 series is built like a tank compared to the ST series of the 80's and 90's not to mention the crappy paint the 80's and 90's ones had.@@woodtickgreg6926
Very informative video! I just picked one up a couple days ago. Any chance you could drop a link for the owners manual?
I can't remember where I got it. I just did a search on Google. I might have downloaded it right from ariens. I just printed it off at home. You do want to match it up by serial and model number.
@@woodtickgreg6926 Thank you! Love the vids. God bless! 🙏
I do prefer the steel shoes, but I have a gravel driveway and the plastic just doesn't seem to hold up like the steel does on gravel.
@Rebel9668 I have a concrete drive and the plastic ones don't mark up the surface like the steel shoes do. But I also have a brand new set of steel shoes as a backup.
Part 2 please!!
I lost the footage for part 2, grrrr, but I'll try and do a recap on it when I get time.
Nice video. Is it just me or did that old friction disc look fine
Thank you. No it was cracked in several places. Time for a replacement.
Mine has some small cracks but it's not missing any chunks. I might get a spare to keep on hand
@bc454irocz89 I'd just change it, they are not real expensive. Get the stens replacement part. Drive belt and the drive disc are 2 things that wear out and need to be replaced. Cracks are signs that it is nearing the end of its life.
@@woodtickgreg6926 I changed the impeller bearing, hex shaft bearing auger bushings and drive axle bushings. Needed an oxyacetylene torch to get the wheel hub off. I made a new scraper bar drift cutters and skid shoes. I put a set of chains on it too and did the impeller wiper mod
@@woodtickgreg6926Hello, can you help me what number of the Tec Sumo engine was installed? I have the 924040 model, I wanted to overhaul the engine, I need an engine gasket, but I don't know the engine model. please help
Also where is the best place to order your parts?
I got most everything either on Amazon or ebay.
Nice job and nice machine. The only critique that I have is I didn’t see you check the rear bearing for the auger shaft. Considering the condition of the other ball bearings, the odds of that ball bearing being any good don’t seem high to me. That combined with the regularity of these bearings wearing out on older machines is working against you. I don’t know why I don’t see the folks working on these checking those bearings very often? The only answer I can conclude if they don’t know how to check it, it’s quite simple. You simply remove the top cover grab the pulley and pull upwards. No other disassembly required and the machine should be in normal upright position. If you feel distinct slop, it’s bad. I think when folks try to do this from underneath or in the air with the belly pan off the tension from the belt is enough to throw the test off as well as the weight on the shaft is different. Replacing it well that’s an entirely different kettle of fish. Maybe that’s why they’re not looking. Hint, any pulley keyways, will have bulged the shaft which need to be filed in that area before attempting to disassemble because the shaft will not pull through the bearing. The shaft is so soft, even a minor hammer blow directly to the end of it will mushroom the shaft so it will not go through the bearing! Have your brass drifts handy? This should keep you out of trouble and not needing extreme persuasion a.k.a. acetylene torch and other cuss words!
Good advise. Even though I did not show it or talk about it I did check that bearing and all others. I only replaced the obviously worn bearings. If I ever have to replace the auger shaft bearing that's an entirely new project for another day. But for now she is working great!